Dear Alex, I wrote you but you still ain't callin. I left my cell, my pager and my home phone at the bottom. I sent two letters back in autumn you must not have got em. There probably was a problem at the post office or somethin'.
Hey Chris, sorry to see that it hasn't been fixed yet. I commented on one of your short videos a while ago and told you that I am having the same problem with my 2011 E63. Unfortunately i haven't fixed yet either. And I kinda gave up on it. Though mine has much more miles on it now. 157k miles. I also tired pretty much every you did. However, a few weeks ago I saw on one of W204 C63 AMG forum, someone had the same problem, he replaced the alternator then the misfire is gone! So apparently even if the alternator seems fine, of there is inconsistency in voltage/amps it may not trigger any code but it causes the ECU to act up. I know that you have replaced the alternator's voltage regulator but maybe there's something wrong with it. I replaced my car's regulator a few months before the misfiring but never thought of it. So maybe check it out. Maybe it doesn't work properly at certain RPMs and temps which causes the ECU to act weird! Also if you need anything Mercedes ECU related, I HIGHLY recommend Pressertech. They are located in the state of Georgia. I believe the guy in charge there is British. I had great experience in the past with them, they fixed and reprogrammed my CLS 550 ECU. They do everything from repairs to flashing and reprogramming and tunes. Best of luck and cheers from Texas!
Hey Chris in a recent video you were explaining how you learned your craft through trial and error. I truly believe in you and you will eventually figure this one out without the need to collaborate with others on TH-cam. You are great at what you do. Keep up the good work.
Another electrical test you can do to all of the associated connections is the pin drag test. It essentially makes sure the female-side pins in the connectors aren't loose fitting around the male pins. I know this has stumped me and my coworkers a few times when doing electrical diag. so I thought I'd let you know. Magical Mechanical posted a video on how to do the pin drag test and he even uses a Mercedes Benz camshaft actuator plug to demonstrate. Don't throw the towel in on this old girl just yet, I love watching these videos and thinking it through with you!
Just think of how satisfying it will be when you do get the E63 AMG fixed! Until then, your cabinet doors may want to keep their guard up 😄. In all seriousness, appreciate you airing your frustrations like the rest of us do. We curse, throw things and perhaps strike an inanimate object to vent. Then we walk away and come back with a fresh perspective. Keep at it Chris, you'll get the Mercedes sorted!
Man O man Chris, this one is a brain buster!! I wouldn't have a CLUE where to start and even though I HATE that you're going through this.....I can't wait to see another video about it!! Imagine your joy when you do eventually get it sorted!!?? I'll hear you shouting all the way down here in Tennessee!!! Hang in there brother! Love your content!! Oh....and I've NEVER cursed, kicked, punched or thrown ANYTHING in frustration.....said no real man EVAAAAR!! LOL!!
Oh man, I feel you, it's really frustrating... At least it is driveable without the cam adjuster plugged in. Thanks for the video! Keep going. I'm sure you'll figure it out eventually. Cheers!!
Hey Chris, Congratulations to you both on the new baby, i have watched allll your videos and the mercedes ones more that once lol i own the same car and year, hoping i dont experiemce the same issues as you havent sorted it yet to be able to tell me on a forum at a later date lol. cars are all amazing, great content and i look forward to new ones. Congrats again Alan UK. ps im waiting on the baggy eye videos after being up all night feeding lol. been there!
Hi Chriss, just pay attention to the fuel pressure at lower and mid rpm, at 22:25 when you rev high missfire were gone. Take a look at the fuel system, filter, contaminants, water, etc.
Another great watch from the most patient man in America! I hope you get it sorted soon. I only wish I had a helpful suggestion. Maybe one of those below might be useful. Good luck, fella.
Maybe Ivan at pine hollow auto diagnostics can make a special series out of this. He fixes so many crazy long term ongoing issues with vehicles. Christmas series on the eco boost van from hell had me glued to the tv every day until it was done.
Drive up to Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics and lets get a pico scope on this thing your data might not be polling fast enough for you to catch the issue. Ivan is a great dude give him a buzz.
@@ChrisSullivan69 unfortunately it’s a trek he is in State College PA also pretty close to rosedale tech. I’m sure there are some diagnosticians closer but unfortunately none that I’m aware of.
@@ChrisSullivan69 Yeah , Chris , Ivan can do it check out his vid? He uses Pico scopes and you'd be amazed at his skills.....you're smart & would pick up his knowledge very quickly
Chris your a great mechanic and designer nobody can take that away from you, I always watch your channel always very interesting and well made ! I want to suggest one guy’s channel, I consider him the wizard to tracking down problems like yours is Eric on South Main Auto , he could probably give you some ideas on what it might be.
Hey Chris l have a C63 l had some weird issues on ABS and Engine that were not solved by parts. In the end it was the ABS module and ECU. As I'm in Australia l sent them to Australian ECU repairs fast turn around and very cost effective. And solved all my problems if you get on there website they have a list of codes that fail common to the appropriate module. Mine was throwing lots of codes and parts were not fixing it. Just my experience keep up the great work
Chris I bet this will eventually be something you look back on and laugh. This is a gem of a car and it’s obvious you’re very persistent on fixing it. Just don’t give up brother
This is a thought... On my 2012 Camaro SS, I was having unrelenting hot start issues. Replaced battery, added grounds, had ECU/starter tested, replaced cam and crank position sensors (was throwing codes for these and causing massive misfires). It ended up being that the signal wire to the starter had worked its way loose and was not making solid contact. Once the car got hot, I suppose that caused enough issues for it to not want to start again. I tightened it down and have not had the issue since. Obviously a very different platform, but might be something to look into.
Oh this brings back so many memories of struggles with cars... I had a '92 Caprice ex cop car ages ago, and it started having some issues running right. After doing all the usual like plugs, checking timing, fuel, etc, one of my friends who was a mechanic says to my other friend who was a shade tree mechanic, "Y'know the only thing I can think of is somehow the intake manifold gasket blew inward to the cylinders and it's sucking non-combustible crank vapors in..." That never happens though, right? Take a wild guess what we found when we took the intake manifold off. 😉 New gasket = no more problem.
Seems to run fine in open loop. Then, in closed loop, it has issues. I would check O2 sensors and wiring. I don’t know if there is a tune on the ECU or not. If so, I would assume rear O2 is tuned out. Maybe revert back to base tune if changed. See if the misfire goes away.
FYI...the parts cannon fires both new and used rounds...lol. The minimal wear on those adjusters seems highly unlikely to be the problem...and if it was that's a real shame because a car should never be engineered so that such trivial wear would cause the car to be undriveable and need thousands in repair....but hey, Mercedes right?
There is a issue with the ecu and the control circuit for your ignition cam adjustment. When you have done all of this and get the same result start looking at the control unit. Thats my 2 cents. Keep up the good work
Wow, the AMG fight contines... I recommend you ignore the pushy people and run your damn channel exactly the way you want to. I come here to watch Chris Sullivan content, win lose or tie. Hang in there brother
I don't know if it's a worthy suggestion but I went through something eerily similar with an old Land Rover. When revved it was fine, but holding at RPM or driving at one speed would flash the CEL but only set a random misfire P0300. New ECU, couple shops, new camshaft, wiring harness, everything. It turned out it to be a knock sensor.
Cam solenoid sensor wiring share any wire / connector with the coils? Especially a ground? Coils use individual, paired or single bank ground? Thinking an issue with noise / electrical ground issues between the circuits which then stops because when the cam solenoid is unplugged it removes the “hit ground” or the interference between the wires? Is there a way to lock out the adjusters mechanically so that the solenoid does nothing? Maybe using the spare parts you have to lock them out on that side? That would eliminate any issue with the mechanical side, then it’s just an electrical issue in my opinion.
I know this is a Benz video and Funny enough, I have the Exact same issue on my BMW X3 with the N55 motor that I rebuilt ground up, Random misfires , limp mode and I've practically changed everything and tested every part and cannot for the life off me figure this out. The only way mine runs perfect without any misfires is disconnecting the Valvetronic Motor or cam solenoids and I get no misfires and a perfect idle. With the Valvetronic connected I keep getting absolute lean codes and misfires on idle and occasional misfire and then limp mode. However when I start the car and rev it past the 1.5K rpm and let it warm up- just drives fine and I get no issues until the next time it has to come to an idle after a bit of driving. All the best and I'm sure you will figure this out, and hopefully I will follow your footsteps on diagnosing mine. Until them - Im driving with those parts disconnected.
I admire your patience Chris. I would have dumped that thing long ago. Why people drive older European cars is beyond me. I would LOVE to see the reliability of 5+ year old European cars vs American built stuff. Status symbol I suppose but I always heard NEVER own one after the original warranty expires.
I would rewire the sensors it is possible the shielded wire is broken cause noise in the wires. I had the same issue on a sensor on a different car. I was able to test this using new shielded wires and corrected the problem.
To your question: “why when it’s warm?” Because it’s gone into closed loop and is now starting to use sensor input. My guess would be a faulty sensor. I’d look at live data of cam sensor, crank sensor, MAF sensor, FP sensor from one bank and compare to the other bank. Unplugging the sensors causes it to go into open loop.
I watch these videos faithfully. I am so wanting to see you get it solved. Because I too want to know what is going on with it. But thankfully we'll be able to built them by hand when you finally find the wire that's severed and causing the issue... 😅
Chris, I like doing everything myself but sometimes you gotta ask for a little bit of help. You definitely should ask the guy from legit street cars that would be the best collaboration video. I think you two are perfect and he’s a Mercedes expert, which would probably help you you should definitely reach out not telling me what to do. I totally understand. I’m the same way I like fixing my own stuff but for the hell of it, you never know.
What if the vehicle harness has become soiled from oil wicking out of the cam sensors causing communication problems between the cams and the ECU under load? Happened to my W203 in 2006 and I’ve had oil present in my connections in my M157
Hadn't really thought about this til now.....I've had an issue with frayed wires on a knock sensor causing misfire issues. I can't recall if you've investigated it at this point. But possibly look into the knock sensor and wiring for it.
I had a 1980 Toyota SR5 pick up. Ran great until I would hit a bump. Drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong with it. One time it started acting up and I kicked the kick panel and it started running right. There was an ignition control box behind the kick panel. Long story short, this shit will make you pull your hair out. Good luck!
I have no experience with these engines or cars but when I try to find wiring issues on aircraft we will shake the harness while we ohm it out. I do find it strange that the cam solenoid makes the misfires go away but also your ST fuel trim goes back to normal from around -10. I can't remember if the injectors were checked or replaced already. My only suggestion would be to see if any of them join the same harness and may be shorted together. Going from solenoid to coil plug(s) or injector plugs to see if you get continuity to detect the short. When you ohmed the individual wires and had them completely separate did you try going from the connector to ground as well?
Man I really wanted a 6.2 c63 last year couldn't find one for the price and mileage I wanted and ultimately bought a mustang. These videos have made me so happy with that decision this seems like a nightmare.
If its tuned it could be a bad tune. Over time, camshaft position sensors can fail due to heat and wear. A faulty sensor may send incorrect timing information to the engine control unit (ECU), leading to misfires. Oil leaks, particularly around the valve cover or camshaft seals, can contaminate the sensor. This can interfere with its ability to provide accurate readings. Worn or failing spark plugs and ignition coils are common culprits for misfires, particularly under load at low RPMs
Damn, very frustrating.. I’m the way you are where I want to figure things out on my own. But asking for help isn’t a bad thing. I think CM masters is on the east coast somewhere. Alll they do is Mercedes builds. Seem very knowledgeable. Good luck keep the vids comin.
The only other that could possibly be an issue. This happened to me on a Ford Ranger. IT would miss fire run rough out of the blue. Start back up and would run fine for a bit and then start foing it again. I changed plugs, injectors, injectors harness plugs, replaced fuel line, regulator, checked grounds. I started looking at everything. This is a older vehicle so it's obd1. Then I noticed wires looked a little odd on the O2 sensor. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Runs great. The O2 sensor had shorted out internally.
Just a thought Chris, is there any possibility that maybe those reluctor wheels on the cam position bushing have spun or when the engine heats up and the problem begins to happen it creates a enough space to allow them to spin? Maybe they are ever so slightly out of position and when the actuators engage, those position reluctors are just enough out of spec for this problem to persist!
I feel your frustration 🙏 Ive seen the other videos you posted, but cant remember if i saw you change the mass air flow sensors,. My CL63 was acting up with missfires when varmed up,(no other codes). Swaped the MAFs with another M156 i had,. And voila 👌🏼 And if i recall my engine fan also had starting sounding like a Boeing prior.. So my guess would be that you need 2 new MAFs ☺️
Kicking a hole in the cabinet is the most relatable thing ever. been building up for a year. Drive it with it unplugged and put it aside. Get some wins on other projects and come back. Best thing to do when struggling to figure something out is to walk away from it for awhile.
To your question: “why when it’s warm?” Because it’s gone into closed loop and is now starting to use sensor input. My guess would be a faulty sensor. I’d look at live data of cam sensor, crank sensor, MAF sensor, FP sensor from one bank and compare to the other bank.
Is there any downside to just leaving the cam sensor unplugged? I'm guessing not since others have done the same. Do it and enjoy the ride. I do love to see a good mystery solved. I enjoy all of your projects!
Checking oil pressure at the filter probably isn’t the best I’d look and see if there’s a way to check pressure at or as close to the cans as possible I still believe it a oil bleed off issue At the bare minimum run some thick oil in it and see if it clears up I would also check the pick up for debris I watched a bunch of tear down videos these engines and quite a few had crap stuck in the pick up Best of luck
What tune do you have in the car ATM? With a more open exhaust and especially with a free flowing air filter, that could cause mixture issues without a tune to compensate. Without the cam timing plugged in, The mixture goes full rich I'm guessing so, it runs better in general. Factory tunes are very lean below 2K RPM to pass emissions. You have some adjustment from the ecu for altitude variance so, sometimes, when you do an exhaust, there is enough adjustment in the stock tune to compensate. Sometimes, you run out of adjustment in the ecu and get a miss. As to why only on bank one I'm not sure but, differences in O2 sensor calibration or even the knock sensor could be an issue. Just throwing some ideas out there. Can you monitor the knock sensors in your software? Might be worth a look. Not all ECU diagnostic software monitor those for faults. One last thing, a plugged cat will cause some issues as well though I doubt you have any to worry about. Hope this helps M8. I can sympathize with your frustration!
You should do a drag test on cam solenoids wiring pins... Ivan from Pine hollow diagnostics have done drag tests on wiring pins and found them to be the culprit for electrical issues...
This sounds way off, but check to see if the torque converter is working right. Had a vehicle recently that would misfire when warm because the converter was locking up way too early and was generally bad. Love the vids brother, real world experiences.
Shouting to the people in the back. HE’S NOT GONNA CALL THE GUY FROM LEGIT STREET CARS.
@@DKLabs99 What about Alex from LSC?!?!?!
Dear Alex, I wrote you but you still ain't callin. I left my cell, my pager and my home phone at the bottom. I sent two letters back in autumn you must not have got em. There probably was a problem at the post office or somethin'.
@@ChrisSullivan69😂 “DEAR MR I’M TOO GOOD TO CALL OR WRITE MY FANS”😂
@@ChrisSullivan69😂😂😂
Yall Chris is a Yankee he ain't asking no one for help. Is one of their fatal flaws being stubborn. Still got love for ya Chris
Love that you don't give up man, you'll definitely get it sorted 👍
@@drifter2090 hope so soon!
Hey Chris, sorry to see that it hasn't been fixed yet. I commented on one of your short videos a while ago and told you that I am having the same problem with my 2011 E63. Unfortunately i haven't fixed yet either. And I kinda gave up on it. Though mine has much more miles on it now. 157k miles. I also tired pretty much every you did. However, a few weeks ago I saw on one of W204 C63 AMG forum, someone had the same problem, he replaced the alternator then the misfire is gone! So apparently even if the alternator seems fine, of there is inconsistency in voltage/amps it may not trigger any code but it causes the ECU to act up. I know that you have replaced the alternator's voltage regulator but maybe there's something wrong with it. I replaced my car's regulator a few months before the misfiring but never thought of it. So maybe check it out. Maybe it doesn't work properly at certain RPMs and temps which causes the ECU to act weird!
Also if you need anything Mercedes ECU related, I HIGHLY recommend Pressertech. They are located in the state of Georgia. I believe the guy in charge there is British. I had great experience in the past with them, they fixed and reprogrammed my CLS 550 ECU. They do everything from repairs to flashing and reprogramming and tunes.
Best of luck and cheers from Texas!
interesting, i'll keep it in mind!
Dude , Contact Ivan from Pine auto automotive ....he fixes stuff dealer can't ....no lie
These vids are gold, love the content Chris, we need some C6 content 🤧
@@II-fw6xn coming this week brotha!
Hey Chris in a recent video you were explaining how you learned your craft through trial and error. I truly believe in you and you will eventually figure this one out without the need to collaborate with others on TH-cam. You are great at what you do. Keep up the good work.
Appreciate it, thanks for the support!
Another electrical test you can do to all of the associated connections is the pin drag test. It essentially makes sure the female-side pins in the connectors aren't loose fitting around the male pins. I know this has stumped me and my coworkers a few times when doing electrical diag. so I thought I'd let you know. Magical Mechanical posted a video on how to do the pin drag test and he even uses a Mercedes Benz camshaft actuator plug to demonstrate. Don't throw the towel in on this old girl just yet, I love watching these videos and thinking it through with you!
Just think of how satisfying it will be when you do get the E63 AMG fixed! Until then, your cabinet doors may want to keep their guard up 😄. In all seriousness, appreciate you airing your frustrations like the rest of us do. We curse, throw things and perhaps strike an inanimate object to vent. Then we walk away and come back with a fresh perspective. Keep at it Chris, you'll get the Mercedes sorted!
Almost edited it out. But that's a real day in the garage and you guys deserve to see it lol. Thanks for watching!
We aren't suffering Pal. With you til the end
🤝
Bro your patience and determination with this car is insane!!
Man O man Chris, this one is a brain buster!! I wouldn't have a CLUE where to start and even though I HATE that you're going through this.....I can't wait to see another video about it!! Imagine your joy when you do eventually get it sorted!!?? I'll hear you shouting all the way down here in Tennessee!!! Hang in there brother! Love your content!! Oh....and I've NEVER cursed, kicked, punched or thrown ANYTHING in frustration.....said no real man EVAAAAR!! LOL!!
Its a great Sunday when Chris posts! Waiting for a GT350 on the channel...
Please no more mustangs for a bit
Just drive it like you stoled it!!!!! love the real emotion you show we have all been there
Oh man, I feel you, it's really frustrating... At least it is driveable without the cam adjuster plugged in.
Thanks for the video! Keep going. I'm sure you'll figure it out eventually.
Cheers!!
Cheers! Thanks for watching
My favorite TH-cam channel! Great content.
@@johnwalters2605 very nice of you. Thanks so much for watching
Hey Chris, Congratulations to you both on the new baby, i have watched allll your videos and the mercedes ones more that once lol i own the same car and year, hoping i dont experiemce the same issues as you havent sorted it yet to be able to tell me on a forum at a later date lol. cars are all amazing, great content and i look forward to new ones. Congrats again Alan UK. ps im waiting on the baggy eye videos after being up all night feeding lol. been there!
Nothing better than a Chris upload on a Sunday!
Hi Chriss, just pay attention to the fuel pressure at lower and mid rpm, at 22:25 when you rev high missfire were gone. Take a look at the fuel system, filter, contaminants, water, etc.
I think he already did all that
Another great watch from the most patient man in America! I hope you get it sorted soon. I only wish I had a helpful suggestion. Maybe one of those below might be useful. Good luck, fella.
Maybe Ivan at pine hollow auto diagnostics can make a special series out of this. He fixes so many crazy long term ongoing issues with vehicles. Christmas series on the eco boost van from hell had me glued to the tv every day until it was done.
Ivan is amazing at diagnosis....
I was just going to post the same suggestion
Ivan can fix cars
Ivan fixes stuff dealer can't ,he is amazing.....I told Chris this before without a response ....Ivan would be glad to lend him advice
You’re a better man than I Chris!!! 😂 I’ve given vehicles extended “timeouts” in storage for lesser problems!!
Drive up to Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics and lets get a pico scope on this thing your data might not be polling fast enough for you to catch the issue. Ivan is a great dude give him a buzz.
@@CrazyLegsFE where are those guys out of?
@@ChrisSullivan69 unfortunately it’s a trek he is in State College PA also pretty close to rosedale tech. I’m sure there are some diagnosticians closer but unfortunately none that I’m aware of.
@@ChrisSullivan69 Yeah , Chris , Ivan can do it check out his vid? He uses Pico scopes and you'd be amazed at his skills.....you're smart & would pick up his knowledge very quickly
Maybe it just needs a “Clutch” , don’t give up Chris you got this.
I feel your pain, we've all been there, keep at it , you'll get it, and you'll feel sooo good 😊
You have incredible patience.. 99% of people would have given up on this car by now
@jonv92 I'm damn close lol. To either solving it or giving up lmao 🤣
Na he just got MULTIPLE other cars and he don't have the time to focus on it.. so that makes it easy not to give up
Not gonna lie this is why im afraid to own a benz, bmw, audi, vw
Never trust a car company that engineers their hoods to open to 90* (or near that). All that means is they knew from the start.
What would a Sunday be without Chris Sullivan Video?
@@rockefeller63 thanks for watching! Happy Sunday man
Even though this is a handful, it is sure great to watch. Keep going Chris
Been looking forward for this one. Best of luck to you
I would have dumped it by now, I don't like to be annoyed... Admire your persistence. TA, hell yes!
“Hey babe, come in here! New Chris Sullivan video is up”
Good shit. Love your videos bro. 🤝
Been loving the vids brotha keep it up.
Chris i feel your frustration. Please keep pushing. You got this ❤
This has been like a soap opera for me. Truly frustratingly enjoyable.
Chris your a great mechanic and designer nobody can take that away from you, I always watch your channel always very interesting and well made ! I want to suggest one guy’s channel, I consider him the wizard to tracking down problems like yours is Eric on South Main Auto , he could probably give you some ideas on what it might be.
Eric & Ivan both top notch guys!!
Hey Chris l have a C63 l had some weird issues on ABS and Engine that were not solved by parts. In the end it was the ABS module and ECU. As I'm in Australia l sent them to Australian ECU repairs fast turn around and very cost effective. And solved all my problems if you get on there website they have a list of codes that fail common to the appropriate module. Mine was throwing lots of codes and parts were not fixing it. Just my experience keep up the great work
I admire your tenacity Chris. Has any Mercedes technicians reached out to you? Man I hope you find the solution.
Im not going to lie when I'm on TH-cam I wait for you to post I can't find anyone who films car videos anymore
Legit Street Cars bro
thats insane lol. legit street cars, matt armstrong and a bunch of other smaller TH-camrs who fix cars
Toms refurb is also really good
Then stop watching dumb shit like stradman
Love the content Chris. Keep growing and looking forward to 2025 videos!! Long time fan. ❤️😈
You just stopped Me in my tracks… I will be stopping my chores and will be watching this!
@@sethmargadonna502 🤙🤙
Another great video
This car has been your kryptonite
Time to get whistlin diesel involved. lol
“Losin your shit, is part of the process of fixing something.” Bill Burr
I love bill burr lol
another great vid rom my fave YT channel!
Good luck, bro!
Praying you make progress, for some reason I feel like I have a vested interest in seeing you make it across the finish line with this car💪🏽🙏🏽
43:20 1000000% - it's like every issue i try and resolve on my fleet and come across these unresolved threads every.single.time...
Chris I bet this will eventually be something you look back on and laugh. This is a gem of a car and it’s obvious you’re very persistent on fixing it. Just don’t give up brother
Thanks man!
@ ✊🏽✊🏽
People telling you to ask Alex for help, really shows how your channel has grown regardless of the subscriber count. 🤙🏽 Need more Mustang vids 😂
This is a thought...
On my 2012 Camaro SS, I was having unrelenting hot start issues. Replaced battery, added grounds, had ECU/starter tested, replaced cam and crank position sensors (was throwing codes for these and causing massive misfires). It ended up being that the signal wire to the starter had worked its way loose and was not making solid contact. Once the car got hot, I suppose that caused enough issues for it to not want to start again. I tightened it down and have not had the issue since.
Obviously a very different platform, but might be something to look into.
Yes Alex had the same problem with this limp mode issue. I can’t remember solution
Good source for Mercedes
Happy Sunday. Stoked to watch this later, even if it’s one step closer to being set on fire lol
Oh this brings back so many memories of struggles with cars... I had a '92 Caprice ex cop car ages ago, and it started having some issues running right. After doing all the usual like plugs, checking timing, fuel, etc, one of my friends who was a mechanic says to my other friend who was a shade tree mechanic, "Y'know the only thing I can think of is somehow the intake manifold gasket blew inward to the cylinders and it's sucking non-combustible crank vapors in..." That never happens though, right? Take a wild guess what we found when we took the intake manifold off. 😉 New gasket = no more problem.
Time for a beer Bubba! Chris , I know you’ll get it done. Hang in there 💪🏿
Seems to run fine in open loop. Then, in closed loop, it has issues. I would check O2 sensors and wiring.
I don’t know if there is a tune on the ECU or not. If so, I would assume rear O2 is tuned out. Maybe revert back to base tune if changed. See if the misfire goes away.
FYI...the parts cannon fires both new and used rounds...lol. The minimal wear on those adjusters seems highly unlikely to be the problem...and if it was that's a real shame because a car should never be engineered so that such trivial wear would cause the car to be undriveable and need thousands in repair....but hey, Mercedes right?
Lol new and used rounds. Love it
There is a issue with the ecu and the control circuit for your ignition cam adjustment. When you have done all of this and get the same result start looking at the control unit. Thats my 2 cents. Keep up the good work
Wow, the AMG fight contines...
I recommend you ignore the pushy people and run your damn channel exactly the way you want to. I come here to watch Chris Sullivan content, win lose or tie.
Hang in there brother
Appreciate you my man. Thanks for the support
What happens when you decide to post your business
Gotta love that German (over) engineering!
I don't know if it's a worthy suggestion but I went through something eerily similar with an old Land Rover. When revved it was fine, but holding at RPM or driving at one speed would flash the CEL but only set a random misfire P0300. New ECU, couple shops, new camshaft, wiring harness, everything. It turned out it to be a knock sensor.
I am always looking forward for these videos.
Cam solenoid sensor wiring share any wire / connector with the coils? Especially a ground? Coils use individual, paired or single bank ground? Thinking an issue with noise / electrical ground issues between the circuits which then stops because when the cam solenoid is unplugged it removes the “hit ground” or the interference between the wires?
Is there a way to lock out the adjusters mechanically so that the solenoid does nothing? Maybe using the spare parts you have to lock them out on that side? That would eliminate any issue with the mechanical side, then it’s just an electrical issue in my opinion.
I know this is a Benz video and Funny enough, I have the Exact same issue on my BMW X3 with the N55 motor that I rebuilt ground up, Random misfires , limp mode and I've practically changed everything and tested every part and cannot for the life off me figure this out. The only way mine runs perfect without any misfires is disconnecting the Valvetronic Motor or cam solenoids and I get no misfires and a perfect idle. With the Valvetronic connected I keep getting absolute lean codes and misfires on idle and occasional misfire and then limp mode. However when I start the car and rev it past the 1.5K rpm and let it warm up- just drives fine and I get no issues until the next time it has to come to an idle after a bit of driving. All the best and I'm sure you will figure this out, and hopefully I will follow your footsteps on diagnosing mine. Until them - Im driving with those parts disconnected.
I admire your patience Chris. I would have dumped that thing long ago. Why people drive older European cars is beyond me. I would LOVE to see the reliability of 5+ year old European cars vs American built stuff. Status symbol I suppose but I always heard NEVER own one after the original warranty expires.
I would rewire the sensors it is possible the shielded wire is broken cause noise in the wires. I had the same issue on a sensor on a different car. I was able to test this using new shielded wires and corrected the problem.
Similar issue once on amg 63. Have you checked the cats? The internals were starting to break up no rattling or any signs of back cats. Just my $.02.
To your question: “why when it’s warm?” Because it’s gone into closed loop and is now starting to use sensor input. My guess would be a faulty sensor. I’d look at live data of cam sensor, crank sensor, MAF sensor, FP sensor from one bank and compare to the other bank. Unplugging the sensors causes it to go into open loop.
love your videos brother
I watch these videos faithfully. I am so wanting to see you get it solved. Because I too want to know what is going on with it. But thankfully we'll be able to built them by hand when you finally find the wire that's severed and causing the issue... 😅
Chris, I like doing everything myself but sometimes you gotta ask for a little bit of help. You definitely should ask the guy from legit street cars that would be the best collaboration video. I think you two are perfect and he’s a Mercedes expert, which would probably help you you should definitely reach out not telling me what to do. I totally understand. I’m the same way I like fixing my own stuff but for the hell of it, you never know.
What if the vehicle harness has become soiled from oil wicking out of the cam sensors causing communication problems between the cams and the ECU under load? Happened to my W203 in 2006 and I’ve had oil present in my connections in my M157
Hadn't really thought about this til now.....I've had an issue with frayed wires on a knock sensor causing misfire issues. I can't recall if you've investigated it at this point. But possibly look into the knock sensor and wiring for it.
Have you checked all o2 sensors? I had a car that would misfire like that came out to be the o2 sensors and never even had a code for o2s.
I had a 1980 Toyota SR5 pick up. Ran great until I would hit a bump. Drove me crazy trying to figure out what was wrong with it. One time it started acting up and I kicked the kick panel and it started running right. There was an ignition control box behind the kick panel. Long story short, this shit will make you pull your hair out. Good luck!
I have no experience with these engines or cars but when I try to find wiring issues on aircraft we will shake the harness while we ohm it out. I do find it strange that the cam solenoid makes the misfires go away but also your ST fuel trim goes back to normal from around -10. I can't remember if the injectors were checked or replaced already.
My only suggestion would be to see if any of them join the same harness and may be shorted together. Going from solenoid to coil plug(s) or injector plugs to see if you get continuity to detect the short.
When you ohmed the individual wires and had them completely separate did you try going from the connector to ground as well?
Man I really wanted a 6.2 c63 last year couldn't find one for the price and mileage I wanted and ultimately bought a mustang. These videos have made me so happy with that decision this seems like a nightmare.
If its tuned it could be a bad tune.
Over time, camshaft position sensors can fail due to heat and wear. A faulty sensor may send incorrect timing information to the engine control unit (ECU), leading to misfires.
Oil leaks, particularly around the valve cover or camshaft seals, can contaminate the sensor. This can interfere with its ability to provide accurate readings.
Worn or failing spark plugs and ignition coils are common culprits for misfires, particularly under load at low RPMs
The only word for you is perseverance
Damn, very frustrating.. I’m the way you are where I want to figure things out on my own. But asking for help isn’t a bad thing. I think CM masters is on the east coast somewhere. Alll they do is Mercedes builds. Seem very knowledgeable. Good luck keep the vids comin.
The only other that could possibly be an issue. This happened to me on a Ford Ranger. IT would miss fire run rough out of the blue. Start back up and would run fine for a bit and then start foing it again. I changed plugs, injectors, injectors harness plugs, replaced fuel line, regulator, checked grounds. I started looking at everything. This is a older vehicle so it's obd1. Then I noticed wires looked a little odd on the O2 sensor. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Runs great. The O2 sensor had shorted out internally.
Just a thought Chris, is there any possibility that maybe those reluctor wheels on the cam position bushing have spun or when the engine heats up and the problem begins to happen it creates a enough space to allow them to spin? Maybe they are ever so slightly out of position and when the actuators engage, those position reluctors are just enough out of spec for this problem to persist!
I feel your frustration 🙏
Ive seen the other videos you posted, but cant remember if i saw you change the mass air flow sensors,. My CL63 was acting up with missfires when varmed up,(no other codes). Swaped the MAFs with another M156 i had,. And voila 👌🏼
And if i recall my engine fan also had starting sounding like a Boeing prior..
So my guess would be that you need 2 new MAFs ☺️
Kicking a hole in the cabinet is the most relatable thing ever. been building up for a year. Drive it with it unplugged and put it aside. Get some wins on other projects and come back. Best thing to do when struggling to figure something out is to walk away from it for awhile.
That was the plan until the cooling fan decided to have a mind of its own! I'll get it licked eventually
Can you just delete the cps ? Like other you can with other manufacturers?
To your question: “why when it’s warm?” Because it’s gone into closed loop and is now starting to use sensor input. My guess would be a faulty sensor. I’d look at live data of cam sensor, crank sensor, MAF sensor, FP sensor from one bank and compare to the other bank.
Is there any downside to just leaving the cam sensor unplugged? I'm guessing not since others have done the same. Do it and enjoy the ride.
I do love to see a good mystery solved.
I enjoy all of your projects!
-maybe new quality coils and plugs + fresh gas
-also check your injectors connectors if not wet and wiring
good luck
Checking oil pressure at the filter probably isn’t the best
I’d look and see if there’s a way to check pressure at or as close to the cans as possible
I still believe it a oil bleed off issue
At the bare minimum run some thick oil in it and see if it clears up
I would also check the pick up for debris
I watched a bunch of tear down videos these engines and quite a few had crap stuck in the pick up
Best of luck
When chris trys to upload something either breaks or makes noise *Cough* *Cough*.... Birds and Planes *Cough Air compressor Cough*😂😂 love the vids man
Lol man it's always something 🤣
Could be bad coil packs/connections?
Bad spark plugs?
Being lifted might influence electrical system?
"The freaking worst" couldn't agree more!
Don't leave us hanging, you know? Lol
I don’t remember if you changed the cams, but that could be an issue. But that maybe that’s a major project. Good luck.
Hey i heard people are having problems with the 63 motorsports cam adjusters try vrp
You are a lightweight when I break things out of frustration its usually an expensive fix..lolol
What tune do you have in the car ATM? With a more open exhaust and especially with a free flowing air filter, that could cause mixture issues without a tune to compensate. Without the cam timing plugged in, The mixture goes full rich I'm guessing so, it runs better in general. Factory tunes are very lean below 2K RPM to pass emissions. You have some adjustment from the ecu for altitude variance so, sometimes, when you do an exhaust, there is enough adjustment in the stock tune to compensate. Sometimes, you run out of adjustment in the ecu and get a miss. As to why only on bank one I'm not sure but, differences in O2 sensor calibration or even the knock sensor could be an issue. Just throwing some ideas out there. Can you monitor the knock sensors in your software? Might be worth a look. Not all ECU diagnostic software monitor those for faults. One last thing, a plugged cat will cause some issues as well though I doubt you have any to worry about. Hope this helps M8. I can sympathize with your frustration!
Do a cylinder bore scope and check for bent con rods/ cylinder scoring.
Have you checked the fuses
Hi Chris. You need to diagnose each cylinder with oscilloscope. Nice Benz👍
have you checked maf sensor?
You should do a drag test on cam solenoids wiring pins... Ivan from Pine hollow diagnostics have done drag tests on wiring pins and found them to be the culprit for electrical issues...
This sounds way off, but check to see if the torque converter is working right. Had a vehicle recently that would misfire when warm because the converter was locking up way too early and was generally bad.
Love the vids brother, real world experiences.
no torque converter on this gearbox
Hah...I guess that rules that out.