Van Compass 4.3 really does make a difference....but ,your best upgrade was that great shed you built to protect the van from sun, wind and hail! GREAT VIDEO!!!!
@@bobbysnow5478 the only difference between the 2.3 and the 4.3 is the additional leaf spring pack in the back, right? the front is the same if I read the VC website correctly, What I recently noticed is a much stiffer/harsher ride when it is cold. the other day it dropped down to a whopping 37F (super cold here in TX) and it was a different ride than when it is nice and warm. I'm thinking this is because of the Sumo Springs firming up in colder temps? do you notice the same?
@@orange13 thanks for the note. Most my driving is in the #2 setting on the shocks..my last outing it was 29. My total weight would be around 8k on that trip..I did not notice any difference. The spring pack makes for a nice ride when the water tank is full. My passenger door has a rattle from the lock rod.. I would like someone to pull the panel on the slider to see what noise is living in there..crazy
12:10 This is an important fix apparently. I checked this on the 2025 Revel at the dealership. WB has started installing a little straw piece of tubing poking out the drainhole to prevent their sealant from blocking. It has about 1/2" of tubing sticking out.
the yellow toilet lock LED is a side product of the SOG install. I have a video on that here: th-cam.com/video/TpuinqfESGc/w-d-xo.html . the SOG kit includes a switch that gets installed at the bottom of the toilet and it controls the little SOG fan. I then installed the LED in parallel with the fan so when the fan turns on, so does the LED
thanks. Some of the side window noise in my van can be eliminated by snapping the 2 blinds (bug screen and blind) together. I also used a bit of electrical tape to fix the magnetic strips in place. I have not been able to get rid of all the noises, though.
@@orange13 some of the door rattle issues can be elimanted with putting some grease in the holes where the door latches. One is up high one low. It eventually wears off and you need to add more, And yes the screen and blind rattles if its open all the way, i just leave mine a little engaged and it doesnt rattle.
thank you. Yes, the OEM Mercedes Tail Pipe PN is 906-490-08-21. The other piece you might need is a rubber pipe hanger, this is what connects the pipe with the frame at the tip of the pipe. in my Revel, this piece was still there. if you need it, it is 901-492-00-44
I'm working my way through some of these mods. Great ideas! I'm hoping you'll see this comment since I have a request. Have you seen the Facebook threads regarding adding a living hinge to the window in the slider to keep it from falling out? I'm afraid of this happening to me so I never open that window. They say the living hinge is the answer but won't explain how to install it (telling someone to figure it out isn't very helpful). Could you do a video on this install?
thank you. One of the perks of having a small TH-cam channel is that I can read ALL the comments 🙂. No, I have not seen any reports of windows falling out. I am not on Facebook but I am in the Winnebagorevelforum DOT COM and so far, have not come across any issues with the side window.. after all, they are from Dometic and they know a thing or 2 about making RV windows. A living hinge, by definition, is nothing that can be added because a living hinge is part of the 2 sides it connects and made from the same material, like the hinge in an egg carton. But I get the idea, I guess the idea is to somehow glue a piece of plastic or any material that can act as a hinge to the window and frame. perhaps a piece of gorilla tape can do the trick? or a thin piece of polyethylene (which is a type of plastic that can be bent a lot without much fatigue) can be attached with strong double-sided tape (VHB tape)? After all, this extra hinge is only a backup, should the main hinge fails. Anyway. I'm just theorizing. i do not see the need of such a modification and I'm not even sure what problem it is supposed to fix. I'm afraid I won't be making a video about it. I also think you do not need to worry about your window. don't trust these Facebook people 🙂
@@orange13 Thank you for taking the time to reply! I feel a lot better about the window but I still won't be opening it. Maybe it was the earlier models that are having such a hard time. They say it's not Dometic's fault but WB not putting sufficient bracing/support around the edges so you can't open it 90 degrees.
it came with the van, I didn't put it on. Looking at other Revel videos and pictures, I think my faucet is different. perhaps they didn't have the regular style in stock when they built my van. after all, this is a standard "residential" faucet and not an RV- specific or even Winnebago specific part. I guess you could put in any kitchen faucet you can find at Lowes or HomeDepot....
You have such great ideas and solutions. Question, what adhesive are you using to affix the acrylic pieces to the drawer sides? Also with the bungee cords in the frig, are you drilling through the sides?
hi Dave, thanks for your comment. I'm not using acrylic. the material is polycarbonate. I know, acrylic is often used as a synonym for clear plastic but once you start cutting and drilling the stuff, it does matter. Acrylic can be somewhat brittle and can shatter when drilled and cut with standard woodworking tools. Polycarbonate, on the other side, is not brittle at all, it can be cut with a circular saw, holes can be drilled near to the edge without any risk of breaking/splitting, it can even be routed with a normal woodworking router bit. ANyway, that wasn't your question 🙂: I used some double sided carpet mounting tape. this stuff is super- sticky and - unlike foam- backed double-sided adhesive strips like 3M VHB tape - very thin. As for the fridge, no, I did not drill into the sides. Instead, I cut a small piece of plastic and drilled the holes for the bungees into it. I then used the existing stainless steel metal rods as a spreader between the 2 plastic blocks and again some double-sided carpet tape to stick it to the side walls of the fridge.
Noted the velcro solution for the bed seat belt. Great idea. Tks! I put on a topper and need an extender. Could not find the seatbelt type. Do you have any clue? Thank you.
hi Dave. thank you. I'm not an expert on seat belts but I am somewhat sure the one for the bed is the same one they use as a lap belt for the bench seat. If you never use the bench seat for a 4th passenger, perhaps you can use that one to fabricate an extender? or you could just move the buckle down a bit on the bathroom wall? or - and that's what I would do - simply don't buckle up the bed when in the up position. Euroloft says the bed is fully usable in any position and chances that the bed will crashing down are very very slim. and even if it does, what can happen? I also found this ebay listing. Looks like a fit to me, it is not an extender. Instead, you can just replace the entire buckle thing with one that is a little bit longer: www.ebay.com/itm/283982388724
I've never had, or seen, an RV that I didn't go around tinkering on things to improve them and have fun on a Saturday. Half of the fun, for me, is finding these little things that I can do myself.
Van Compass 4.3 really does make a difference....but ,your best upgrade was that great shed you built to protect the van from sun, wind and hail! GREAT VIDEO!!!!
With the 4.3 upgrade it really calms down the front suspension of the Sprinter Van
@@bobbysnow5478 the only difference between the 2.3 and the 4.3 is the additional leaf spring pack in the back, right? the front is the same if I read the VC website correctly, What I recently noticed is a much stiffer/harsher ride when it is cold. the other day it dropped down to a whopping 37F (super cold here in TX) and it was a different ride than when it is nice and warm. I'm thinking this is because of the Sumo Springs firming up in colder temps? do you notice the same?
@@orange13 thanks for the note.
Most my driving is in the #2 setting on the shocks..my last outing it was 29.
My total weight would be around 8k on that trip..I did not notice any difference.
The spring pack makes for a nice ride when the water tank is full.
My passenger door has a rattle from the lock rod.. I would like someone to pull the panel on the slider to see what noise is living in there..crazy
12:10 This is an important fix apparently. I checked this on the 2025 Revel at the dealership. WB has started installing a little straw piece of tubing poking out the drainhole to prevent their sealant from blocking. It has about 1/2" of tubing sticking out.
maybe they watched this video, too, and copied my fix 🙂?
Thank you, although I own a 23/23 Travato however I very much have enjoyed the videos you've produced!
thank you. I bet there is a lot of overlap between the Revel and the Travato
I find your videos very helpful. Yes. Thanks. The VC upgrade is the biggest improvement I’m seeing right now - I think that is next.
The upgrade #14 at 11:14 is really a great idea! tnx
Thank you for the Video. Did you do a how-to on the Toilet Lock indicator light? Could you link it here?
the yellow toilet lock LED is a side product of the SOG install. I have a video on that here: th-cam.com/video/TpuinqfESGc/w-d-xo.html . the SOG kit includes a switch that gets installed at the bottom of the toilet and it controls the little SOG fan. I then installed the LED in parallel with the fan so when the fan turns on, so does the LED
Great video!
My remaining issue are noises coming from the sliding door and that goofy window..HELP!
thanks. Some of the side window noise in my van can be eliminated by snapping the 2 blinds (bug screen and blind) together. I also used a bit of electrical tape to fix the magnetic strips in place. I have not been able to get rid of all the noises, though.
@@orange13 some of the door rattle issues can be elimanted with putting some grease in the holes where the door latches. One is up high one low. It eventually wears off and you need to add more, And yes the screen and blind rattles if its open all the way, i just leave mine a little engaged and it doesnt rattle.
@@nickb1966 thanks Nick. yes, this is a very good tip. thanks for sharing. It indeed helps a lot in my van, too.
Another awesome video, thank you! By chance do you recall or have the Exhaust part #?
thank you. Yes, the OEM Mercedes Tail Pipe PN is 906-490-08-21.
The other piece you might need is a rubber pipe hanger, this is what connects the pipe with the frame at the tip of the pipe. in my Revel, this piece was still there. if you need it, it is 901-492-00-44
@@orange13 Much appreciated. The rubber hangar was also still on my Revel. Cheers to you!
I'm working my way through some of these mods. Great ideas! I'm hoping you'll see this comment since I have a request. Have you seen the Facebook threads regarding adding a living hinge to the window in the slider to keep it from falling out? I'm afraid of this happening to me so I never open that window. They say the living hinge is the answer but won't explain how to install it (telling someone to figure it out isn't very helpful). Could you do a video on this install?
thank you. One of the perks of having a small TH-cam channel is that I can read ALL the comments 🙂. No, I have not seen any reports of windows falling out. I am not on Facebook but I am in the Winnebagorevelforum DOT COM and so far, have not come across any issues with the side window.. after all, they are from Dometic and they know a thing or 2 about making RV windows. A living hinge, by definition, is nothing that can be added because a living hinge is part of the 2 sides it connects and made from the same material, like the hinge in an egg carton. But I get the idea, I guess the idea is to somehow glue a piece of plastic or any material that can act as a hinge to the window and frame. perhaps a piece of gorilla tape can do the trick? or a thin piece of polyethylene (which is a type of plastic that can be bent a lot without much fatigue) can be attached with strong double-sided tape (VHB tape)? After all, this extra hinge is only a backup, should the main hinge fails. Anyway. I'm just theorizing. i do not see the need of such a modification and I'm not even sure what problem it is supposed to fix. I'm afraid I won't be making a video about it. I also think you do not need to worry about your window. don't trust these Facebook people 🙂
@@orange13 Thank you for taking the time to reply! I feel a lot better about the window but I still won't be opening it. Maybe it was the earlier models that are having such a hard time. They say it's not Dometic's fault but WB not putting sufficient bracing/support around the edges so you can't open it 90 degrees.
We love your mod videos! Do you have a source for that swivel faucet attachment?
it came with the van, I didn't put it on. Looking at other Revel videos and pictures, I think my faucet is different. perhaps they didn't have the regular style in stock when they built my van. after all, this is a standard "residential" faucet and not an RV- specific or even Winnebago specific part. I guess you could put in any kitchen faucet you can find at Lowes or HomeDepot....
You have such great ideas and solutions. Question, what adhesive are you using to affix the acrylic pieces to the drawer sides? Also with the bungee cords in the frig, are you drilling through the sides?
hi Dave, thanks for your comment. I'm not using acrylic. the material is polycarbonate. I know, acrylic is often used as a synonym for clear plastic but once you start cutting and drilling the stuff, it does matter. Acrylic can be somewhat brittle and can shatter when drilled and cut with standard woodworking tools. Polycarbonate, on the other side, is not brittle at all, it can be cut with a circular saw, holes can be drilled near to the edge without any risk of breaking/splitting, it can even be routed with a normal woodworking router bit. ANyway, that wasn't your question 🙂: I used some double sided carpet mounting tape. this stuff is super- sticky and - unlike foam- backed double-sided adhesive strips like 3M VHB tape - very thin.
As for the fridge, no, I did not drill into the sides. Instead, I cut a small piece of plastic and drilled the holes for the bungees into it. I then used the existing stainless steel metal rods as a spreader between the 2 plastic blocks and again some double-sided carpet tape to stick it to the side walls of the fridge.
Noted the velcro solution for the bed seat belt. Great idea. Tks! I put on a topper and need an extender. Could not find the seatbelt type. Do you have any clue? Thank you.
hi Dave. thank you. I'm not an expert on seat belts but I am somewhat sure the one for the bed is the same one they use as a lap belt for the bench seat. If you never use the bench seat for a 4th passenger, perhaps you can use that one to fabricate an extender? or you could just move the buckle down a bit on the bathroom wall? or - and that's what I would do - simply don't buckle up the bed when in the up position. Euroloft says the bed is fully usable in any position and chances that the bed will crashing down are very very slim. and even if it does, what can happen? I also found this ebay listing. Looks like a fit to me, it is not an extender. Instead, you can just replace the entire buckle thing with one that is a little bit longer: www.ebay.com/itm/283982388724
@@orange13 Thanks so much for taking the time and for sharing your thoughts. Very helpful. Much appreciated. dh
Cracks me up. Everyone buys a Revel and then has to spend thousands to “upgrade” it so it actually can be a half way decent Offroad vehicle.
I've never had, or seen, an RV that I didn't go around tinkering on things to improve them and have fun on a Saturday. Half of the fun, for me, is finding these little things that I can do myself.