EP 81 DIY Air Conditioner install in your vintage camper retro RV travel trailer.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Simple step by step AC install.
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It's not old technology that needs a drain. The condenser removes humidity from the air, hence "air conditioning". Perhaps you're not in a very humid area, but, where I am(North Texas), one 5000 BTU window unit produces about 3 gallons of water condensate per day during the summer months. Even in the case that much of the condensate evaporates and is vented out, it's still moisture and after a bit of time, those little wooden holes on the other side of your vent will begin to break down and mildew will form. So, your "tips" are only valid in places with low humidity. Otherwise, YOU MUST HAVE A DRAIN of some sort!
False. I live in Oklahoma. I don't think you have read a new technology AC manual recently. By splashing the water on the coils it gets evaporated out and the moving air dries it as it goes. There are literally no drain/weep holes designed into the unit. Maybe you know something the manufacturer doesn't know?
@@RobTheRebuilder I’m fully aware what the manufacturer states. And you just said it yourself… it evaporates against the coils. That does not mean that it disappears. It also states that any excess will drain through a vent. But, as far at the evaporation that takes place; that vapor goes into what is expected to be open air. As much as you’d like to think that vent makes it open air, its not. Much of that vapor will return to condensate upon hitting that vent and again drip down. I wasn’t exaggerating when I said I have been producing 3 gallons from the overflow. So, if it’s used more than a few hours in a day, then you WILL experience overflow. And, over time, that buildup will occur and destroy the wood. My current setup has a 5000 btu unit in the window, and I have it setup for recollection on my bus. Also keep in mind that if you allow that pan to stay full, it also becomes a potential issue with mildew and other contaminates. Mine is setup to drain at a bit over 1/4 inch, which leaves enough for the fan to distribute for the sake of efficiency.
@@JasonHorne72 Where is the drain hole to put a pan under? There isn't any. Best wishes, good luck, I'm not into arguing manufactures specifications. There is no drain hole!
I'm sorry. That sounded rude. Thank you for the feedback because different opinions should make me better.
@@RobTheRebuilder I am just now seeing this. I certainly didn't mean it as an insult or a negative criticism. I appreciate what you do and you do it well.
Crazy question. Has all the window ac moved to this technology or just this name brand? (Drain)
Case by case basis.
Did anybody elses mind go straight to Eminem when he said round the outside.
Me!
Make a special slide-out for the air conditioner. When you're pulling the trailer down the road, the unit slides into the interior and when you're parked, the unit slides out. Just like the slide outs that extend your interior.
Sounds good to me!
Great idea!🎉
My God, what did you cut that hole with a butter knife?
Hatchet
Snug fit, just like Norm Abrams ! Refridgerators produce water - same idea, there is a pan and the condensate is to evaporate. And I watch since you are a likable guy and passionate about what you do and are handy ! ...And I never would have met Amber, Amber Shellac wtihout you.
She is a beauty
I have always thought it would be a good idea to buy an extra unit when doing these installs. Alot of them are custom built to the unit an I have wondered what happens when you cant get the same make/model if it fails
Yes. I always use a name brand and the measurements can stay the same.
Not trying to that guy but isn't putting a ac lower in a space counterproductive to physics.
I mean heat rises therfore cold falls.
I understand space constraints and all but as far as efficiency goes wouldn't it be much better up higher in a space.
I do get that its a extremely small space which brings up another question.
The 5000 btu ratting is meant to cool approximately 150 to 200 sq ft so wouldn't this set up put a lot of strain on that unit with the short cycling that will occur due to to size of the camper.
Again not trying to bust any balls i do appreciate this content and we all do things our own way.
if it works it works plain and simple.
it's just seams to me that it would make more sense to size the unit appropriately to the space so as not to stress the component's for much more efficient quality and longevity of the equipment and overall comfort
The space is 70 SQFT. Half the 150 rating.
It is easy to cool off because you fill the whole camper with cold air. There is not a certain level that cold air stops. Worst case scenario, add a little fan on your dinette pointed at the AC.
I appreciate your input.
I live in Arkansas and it gets extremely humid here, the ac without drains really struggle and frankly do not work. I have drilled my own drain holes in all four that I own. One is a HUGE 220 unit. I can tell you that the ac without a drain is a peace of junk until that hole drain is there and if it was enclosed it would sling water all over the place from the fan in the back.
If they leak it is because it is not installed properly.
Muy buena idea señor. Muy inteligente.
Gracias mi amigo
Using condensate to help coil the condenser coil for additional heat flow management. Awesome. I learned something new today.
Technology is cool
I think you have a great idea here…
Here is my thoughts…. When towing in the rain, water will definitely find its way up into those 3 vent holes underneath the ac. In addition to that moisture, the moisture from the ac will accumulate, possibly causing mold conditions, which will then circulate throughout the camper when the ac is on… unless you think the airflow from those 3 holes will create enough movement to prevent mold? When you normally put those ac units outside where it hangs out your window, they get lots of airflow, and sunlight. Same with a rooftop rv ac. This unit being hidden in a cabinet is a cool idea… but I don’t know long term how it will last… time will tell I guess. Love your videos!
Thanks for the input. The new technology eliminates all your fears. There is constant airflow in and out of the cabinet. I am just finishing a new AC episode that will go more into depth and answer some of those questions people have. I appreciate you watching.
I’m starting my remodel this winter and these videos are so helpful! Thank you!!
Thank you for watching. Good luck on your build
Looks like a good solution for a vexing problem. I wish I knew this 2 years ago when I was trying to install one of those AC units in my Scamp. Had to go with an external unit, which works fine but is a pain to haul in and out! Great info about the short cycling, too. So many dudes online have no idea what that is, why it happens, or how to solve it. Hell, some manufacturers don't get it, either. Just look at the misery being caused by Braxton Creek on some of their new $20K campers that have AC that doesn't work!
I appreciate you watching
Cutting that hole in the side of your camper, good God man, were you drunk? Beyond that, nice idea except I'd never put holes in the floor, too much road kill and rain water to splash in.
I cleaned it up. Also rain doesn't get in because of the vents. If by chance it did, it has constant airflow so it would dry quickly.
Thanks for sharing this. So helpful! Truly appreciated.
Thank you for watching
I'm going to use a 5000 BTU a/c window unit to custom build a rooftop unit. I just need a roll of sheet metal and some tin snips and perhaps some factory made duct work. Maybe I'll buy an old non working roof top unit and take it apart to see how to copy it.
Reverse engineer!
How do you keep the AC in place? Is in secured to the platform somehow? I'm installing one myself
Yes. I am working on an in depth AC install that shows everything start to finish. I'll get it on soon. Otherwise I uploaded another AC video about two weeks ago. Hope it's helpful.
I think the best spot is under the table set in front. On the outside the propane tanks hide it and you can put supports on the tongue.
A lot of people do it there.
@@RobTheRebuilder that's my plan I think. I've watched a lot of other mounting methods just trying to find the least intrusive spot.
Thanks for the video.
Do have one question.
I picked up a teardrop made of 1" plywood, doesn't have insulation and fits a small twin bed in it.
Will adding a window ac cause moisture to build up inside.
I do have 4 windows I can open but texas heat is bad.
Shouldn't be a problem. You will be opening the door from time to time.
Thanks for the quick reply.
I have a Scotty and mine sits on the bumper out there back and vented inside under my bed. It short cycles and no one knows why or what that is. I’m struggling to find someone to fix it. Any thoughts?
Either not enough fresh air or not enough power would be my guess.
@@RobTheRebuilder How would I figure out which one it is? It sticks completely out the back as of it was in a window… could the drop of 3/4 inch not be right? Could it be too level? Should I try plugging straight into an extension cord and not the plug to see if it’s a power issue? Thanks!!
have a window unit in my actual house, that is beside the back door. It's this kind with no drain hole. When I walk out the back door it is spraying misty water out the sides as the fan turns, and, it often over flows dripping considerable water even though these should not drip. This one is less than 2 months old. So to put one in a cabinet in my camper is giving me pause that it would spray mist, causing mold/mildew/lumber warping, and that it would also over flow and drip water out, causing all that even worse. I'd like to find the old school style that is designed to drain out a hose instead of trust this new kind that in my experience, leaks like a sieve. At a minimum at least I'd want to waterproof the inside of the cabinet and have a pan system in the floor that the unit sat on to catch potential spray and over flow, allowing it to drain properly and not just soak in to the cabinet. I'd be interested in hearing how this one actually held up under heavy summer use regarding the potential of leaking water or creating a mist spray during the hot humid summer we have in Oklahoma.
I have been using them this way for two years. If you are having leaking and spraying, the owners manual says it is not installed to specifications.
Find the lowest spot on the bottom that is far away from any coils or tubes and drill it with a half inch steel drill bit to make a drain. Then sit back and enjoy COOLER temperatures in your house.
Okay so I don't remeber typing this comment at all. I don't even know why I watched this video, and I don't think I've ever had this type of air conditioner. This is super weird lol. Yeah you guys are right but I'm really confused
@@Hunt_or_Die I tend to believe that a company as big as Toshiba has a pretty good handle on the technology needed to run a multi-billion dollar company.
@@everettstormy weird things happen.
very cool thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching.
Do you have a link to that air conditioner?
Amana 5000 BTU from Home Depot. I usually use Toshiba but they were sold out.
I am getting away from the rooftop RV type air conditioner on my travel van and I am currently framing the back window with aluminum that will be adjustable for many different brands of 5000 btu air conditioners. I recently purchased a 5000 btu Frigidaire window unit. The window unit came with multiple warning labels about the flammable refrigerant inside the unit. Are you aware of this? I am going ahead with the build anyway. The EPA has decided that this Freon is better for the ozone layer. Just wondering if it will be safe to travel. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I have not seen that warning yet. I think I would contact an AC professional. Good luck on your build.
@@RobTheRebuilder it’s only on the new ones. I was at Walmart and Sam’s Club yesterday and all of the have the warnings about the flammable Freon. A air conditioner professional probably doesn’t know because this Freon is very new. Probably no worse than gasoline in your tank. Under the right circumstances it is very flammable too. They are probably using the same refrigerant in roof RV air conditioners as well. When the EPA gets involved things will not be as good as they once was. Well you know that. I am about finished with my build. I am going ahead with it anyway. Gone too far to back out now. I am going to put a fan where the roof ac is now. That AC is on its last leg. Replacing it would be close to $1100.00 plus labor. Depending who installs it. And it is subject to leak. Thanks for your reply.
@@RobTheRebuilder next time you are in a store look. Everything has that highly flammable Freon in it nowadays. Your hvac or central heat and air. Refrigerators. If you have problems and need a repairman he has to be specialized to deal with it. In some places they require the fire department to be on standby. It ain’t fun anymore like the good old days. But always remember that you are saving the climate. Lolololol
6 ounces of flammable refrigerant isn't enough to burn a mouse fart.
the newer units use isobutane as the refrigerant, if your unit says r600, thats what you get, about 3 -5 ounces. when it burns, its very clean and doesnt emit hydrocarbons, thats why its favored by the government. warning though, r600 is a oiless gas and in my profession its notorious for compressor failures in both ac's and camper fridges. this summer we have changed no less than a dozen units due to compressor failures, mostly fridges though. the worst being the brand everchill, which we call neverchill.
Does this not create a vacuum in the trailer?
There are air vents under the AC
@@RobTheRebuilder Ah I see, so the condenser is cooled using outside air then? Ie. Condenser intake from exterior, condenser exhaust on exterior. Evap intake inside, evap exhaust inside? That makes sense and would be ideal!
Where are you draining the AC?
New technology. There is no drain.
Good info .. thx!
Thank you!
Geez....what did you cut that opening with, a machete ?
Yes
really great. thanks
Thank you for watching
Hi
Aw screw it! I'm just going to buy a pint of whiskey and take a nap.
Can't go wrong with that part of the job.
I think a portable small air unit would be better then cutting up the camper.
They take up so much room.
Portable air units really suck because they generate heat that doesn't all vent to the outside. In a window unit, the compressor is actually on the outside of the house because that part of the air conditioner is hanging out the window... duh.
@@johnwow2646 well, not in this case it isn't!