Keeping your foot to the right on that move stops it’s swinging like a pendulum underneath you when you go for the right hand. It reduces your momentum in that direction so it’s easier to apply force with your left foot. Additionally, stretching it out like you did will keep your hips closer to the wall and your core more engaged.
Love the video! I've been in a similar boat as when I started climbing I already had really strong pull-up numbers so I didn't need to use my feet till I climbing v5-6, which cemented bad habits. It's really tough to learn technique necessary for higher climbing when you didn't need it before. Definitely subscribing!
Awesome climbing! And climbing is climbing. Anyone can lift a finger and point out technique, those people cant lift the same fingers to get up off them and do exercise themselves. My advice don't listen to everyone because everyone will give you bad advice. Listen to people you trust and who only make you better at everything you do, if they don't, don't give them your time. Only you make the value of what your time is worth.
I think the foot thing is actually a couple things that come together to make the move easy. Fundamentally it's a balance thing, but having it flagged lets you create more torque naturally into the foot hold, so when you go for the move, the pull from the right hand bring your weight closer into the wall, and more onto your foot, instead of spinning you off and away from the wall, which is what usually happens. Theoretically, you could do the same move with the foot close if you thought about "rolling up" into the move, but flagging wide just makes it more natural, and more balanced. It also makes engaging the glutes and posterior chain easier, and those are the fundamental muscles needed to keep body tension through a far toe.
Just saw this dude hahah!! Sick send on my red problem! No one ever uses the mono I set on that one :(( also the last move on the pocket problem was brutal indeed, never did get that one..
Great vid! In a similar position to you but a few grades lower. Can hang 150% bodyweight but couldn't do most hard V5s and V6s in gym. Microbeta has really helped me break through to more V6+s.
If you’re just purely trying to focus on finger strength, then obviously hangboarding of some kind is the most efficient, such as max hangs, but honestly these days I recommend that most people just limit boulder on a moonboard/tension board/kilterboard/overhanging spray wall instead since it’ll get your whole body strong, not just your fingers. Steep training boards also help with training full body tension and technique while being pretty damn intensive on your fingers
Keeping your foot to the right on that move stops it’s swinging like a pendulum underneath you when you go for the right hand. It reduces your momentum in that direction so it’s easier to apply force with your left foot. Additionally, stretching it out like you did will keep your hips closer to the wall and your core more engaged.
Tom G Thanks for the insight!
Blueberry Avenue enjoyed the video!
Love the video! I've been in a similar boat as when I started climbing I already had really strong pull-up numbers so I didn't need to use my feet till I climbing v5-6, which cemented bad habits. It's really tough to learn technique necessary for higher climbing when you didn't need it before. Definitely subscribing!
Awesome climbing! And climbing is climbing. Anyone can lift a finger and point out technique, those people cant lift the same fingers to get up off them and do exercise themselves. My advice don't listen to everyone because everyone will give you bad advice. Listen to people you trust and who only make you better at everything you do, if they don't, don't give them your time. Only you make the value of what your time is worth.
I think the foot thing is actually a couple things that come together to make the move easy. Fundamentally it's a balance thing, but having it flagged lets you create more torque naturally into the foot hold, so when you go for the move, the pull from the right hand bring your weight closer into the wall, and more onto your foot, instead of spinning you off and away from the wall, which is what usually happens. Theoretically, you could do the same move with the foot close if you thought about "rolling up" into the move, but flagging wide just makes it more natural, and more balanced. It also makes engaging the glutes and posterior chain easier, and those are the fundamental muscles needed to keep body tension through a far toe.
Just saw this dude hahah!! Sick send on my red problem! No one ever uses the mono I set on that one :(( also the last move on the pocket problem was brutal indeed, never did get that one..
Great vid! In a similar position to you but a few grades lower. Can hang 150% bodyweight but couldn't do most hard V5s and V6s in gym. Microbeta has really helped me break through to more V6+s.
Love ur voice overs, ur hella funny. What should i do to get my finger strength up?
If you’re just purely trying to focus on finger strength, then obviously hangboarding of some kind is the most efficient, such as max hangs, but honestly these days I recommend that most people just limit boulder on a moonboard/tension board/kilterboard/overhanging spray wall instead since it’ll get your whole body strong, not just your fingers. Steep training boards also help with training full body tension and technique while being pretty damn intensive on your fingers