I accident removed the inboard pad adjuster set screw and it came out along with a spring and bearing. This is on a Tektro Airies disk brake system. How do I get this reinstalled? I don’t see a place for the spring and bearing. I also heard that they may not be needed. I adjust se set screw to the rotor, backing off about 1/4 turn. No rubbing and brakes were good. I rode my bike for 106 miles with no issues. But noticed, the pad adjuster set screw was missing, meaning it came loose and fell out.
Calvin is the man! Parktools have a fantastic line of equipment, but for me what really makes this company shine are its technicians and their ability to teach someone like myself who's willing to learn all I can. Thanks guys, you set your company apart from the rest!
Been building a 2005 Specialized Stumpjumper with reconditioned forks and shock, every pivot bearing replaced, brand new drivetrain, headset, wheelset and brakes. Today I found the rotors I installed on the wheels 3 weeks ago were out of true new out of the box which tested my Anglo-Saxon vocabulary to its absolute limit. Watched this vid, followed the instructions and problem solved in under an hour, thanks!!!
You guys are absolutely AMAZING, THE BEST. I LOVE YOU. Im kinda newbie and dumb about bikes and such. Especially whole brake system was kinda hard to understand for me, but i wanted to fix myself. I was reading some articles etc, few videos and it didnt help me at all.But every each one of your videos is so well made, nicely and easy explained.. Only thank to your videos, i got it all now. I fixed everything i needed. Simple, easy and compared to some services very cheap. Thanks so much. Amazing job, good luck fellas.
It works most of the times, but it sure is not a pleasant process since you are constantly limited by touching spokes because jaws are so wide. Dedicated tool is like $3-4
I ever tried putting the rotor on a flat working table , and looked from the side , after spotting the bended area ,I marked and used mallet knocking several times and it worked 🤫
It seems like the ideal thing to have would be a way to have a reference plane of the rotor down by the hub to better determine if a deviation needs to come in or out at the braking surface.
How do I distinguish whether it is the wheel or disc that needs truing? I put together a new Walmart Hyper Ebike with 700c wheels and mechanical brakes. You can hear the disc rub, but you can also see the wheel wobble. At first TH-cam convinced me I have to true by going spoke to spoke, but I hadn't even thought of the disc being the culprit until I saw your video.
That was super helpful. I've spent hours making a rotor seemingly worse. I'm going to try to use the trick of sharpie numbering and I have the park truing stand and the rotor truing tool
Wow that dial indicator is awesome! How do you know when to replace a worn out rotor? I don't mean bent, I mean like it gets used up. (If that's the case at all)
Each manufacturer has their own wear specifications. However, if you can see that the rotor thickness at the braking surface is different from the rotor arm thickness, it likely needs replacement. - Calvin
Awesome video.. sucks that both of my new RT86 rotors are warped causing actual wheel slow down.. I bought the park tool bendy tool but have a Bike Hand truing stand so probably do on bike ..
I tried all methods on my Shimano saint brakes with Hope Floating rotor and red Gaffer pads. First I tried to straighten the rotor by looking straight down at it. This worked rather well actually. I had just done service to the fork so the caliper was not in place. Once I was satisfied with how straight it looked, I braked with the lever and fastened the caliper in that position. This helped a lot, but.I still had some minor rubbing here and there. I couldn't be certain of which direction, even when I looked inside the caliper, so I just chanced it and straightened it in any direction. If the rubbing got worse I straightened it in the other direction. Lil' bit'll do ya!
@@parktool Thanks for the input, and you may be right. I have even had to straighten the Hope vented rotors, even though Park tools doesn't make the tool for such a big rotor. I just wanted to mix and match saint and hope parts to reduce the on and off feel of the saints. But after trying it today, the saints are too darn powerful to not have quite a lot of on off feel still. Could be the saint levers that pushes too much oil at once. I can try with XT levers and see how that feels. The Hope Tech 3 levers should be mounted on a harley davidson, being quite big and slow 2-finger levers. Hope uses DOT 4/5.1 and cant be mixed with shimanos mineral oil sadly.
What size rotors are you using? I find that sometimes one step down in rotor size can gain quite a bit of modulation, if you are willing to give up some power and heat dissipation.
@@parktool I weigh 110kg/242Ibs geared up. I can feel when a brake is to weak to stop me. :P This is the reason why I started modding my brakes in the first place. Even new Shimano XTs on 180mm rotors are to weak for my fat bottom. Now I use 203mm rotors exclusively with Saint or Hope V4, and sometimes a bit of both.
u can do the alignment laying down the disc to smooth heavy metal then place a piece of wood 1x2 on top of the disc and try pounding it with a rubber hammer but not so hard, start with a light pounding going harder and harder as you examine the improvement.
It would be surprising if that worked, as it is hard to check the small tolerances needed against a flat surface. However, there is only one way to find out. The worst thing that will happen is you end up buying a new rotor.
How do you determine the starting point of the DT 3. I see how u started here but what if the rotor was bent in not out to start with? The DT 3 obviously can't mount going thru the spokes?
@@parktool thanks for the response. more specifically i meant. what if the entire rotor is coned inward and the entire rotor only needs to come back out away from the bike? then the tool wouldnt touch it anywhere.
Calvin help i got DX 700 Shimano brakes the top are normal to bleed the bottom i cant find a bleed port only a allen key screw near brake barrel no nipple no rubber seal hiding one ? Need to push pads apart to align and bleed ! no nipple HELP PLEASE !
Hello Oleg, I am not familiar with the DX700 (cant find any literature on Shimano's tech site for them or anywhere online). Typically the Shimano calipers that have a small hex key and then a flush rubber cover over a port that is cast into the caliper body or there is no rubber cover but there is a port, require you to hook up your bleed syringe hose to that cast in port, then loosen the small hex key to open up the flow of mineral oil. The port may be at a downward angle making it hard to see. An image to tech@parktool.com would be help. Thanks, T.
I'm thinking about installing a disk brake on my brake calipers bicycle but a didn't find any good video about it. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance!
I have the same brakes and am dealing with the same issue. Will keep you posted on the solution. As of now increased spring tension and added a bit of protective tape where the fins meet the caliper body.
@@parktool lol yeah there are tons of forum threads on it but best advice was wait till they get full of brake dust. I have 2 other bikes with single pistons and the pads are def tighter in the caliper. I was thinking about either cutting and apply strips of gorilla tape or applying liquid electric tape (liquid rubber). I talked to 2 bike shop techs in passing, they thought I was crazy...it is driving me nuts..
An inexpensive one is great to practice on. Give it a shot straightening and then you have a little more knowledge. Then if you cannot get the rotor straight or it is not going well, then replace the rotor. Many rotors are slightly bent from the factory and need to be fine tuned. I find this to be true at any price point for rotors.
No need to worry about scratching your rotor. That being said the tip of the DT-3 is rounded so it does not scratch the rotor. People often use sand paper or Emory cloth to rough up and scratch their rotor to de glaze it so it stops making noise. So, Scratches are not a bad thing for rotors.
Apologies for chiming in but I don't know who else could give me reliable advice. I recently bought - not yet installed - a Deda Elementi 120mm stem (model: Superzero), which has a clamp height of 36mm instead of the usual 40 or 41mm. Will the reduced contact area between stem and carbon steerer tube (Cannondale SuperSix Evo) potentially endanger the integrity of the carbon steerer tube? Thank you in advance for your reply.
Hey could someone help me ? I bleed my brakes and it got really bad it’s only in my rear I sanded my brake pads and cleaned it and I cleaned the rotor and I bleed it again and it is still bad. Please help me thanks! And the brakes are Tektro HDC M285, Hydraulic Disc, on a Giant Talon 2
You are being as specific as saying it hurts to the doctor but not telling where. How are they bad? What is the problem? What are the "symptoms" of said problem?
my front breaking pads aren't pressing fully on the rotor, 2 mm of the upper part of the pads are untouched, and thus my front brakes aren't good. what can i do to solve this problem?
If the pads are not fully contacting the rotor, there is a height issue with the caliper body. There may be a spacer under the body, or you may have the wrong adapter.
While we might say all things are possible, it does not seem this would be probable. You might have a crash or impact that by chance moves it just right, yet, it seem highly unlikely. Just by riding and braking, there is no force to move the rotor back to straight.
Some people say that if you break hard/long so that they are really hot that they get true again, if the impact was mechanical before. Although i have not testet this (and it is bad for the brake pads).
Some oil is now on your rear caliper pads? It is very difficult to clean oil from the pads, replacement is the best option. You may try one thing, and that is remove the pads, lightly sand the surface, and replace. But again, replacement is best.
Burn the pads, I am not kidding, use a pan, heat them till they stop smoking, sand them then try. Only do this on a metallic pad, organic will become useless after heating.
Abdalrahman Manaa and don't forget to wipe both the disc and the pads with alcohol!!! You can pour alcohol over hot pads as well, it will be better. I did this and I made my pads work like new again.
It depends on the hub and bearing design. Remember the wheel extends the lever to check for play. When the hub is out of the bike, there may be play, but because you are moving the axle only, it may not be obvious. The "cup and cone" designs can be adjusted for play, using cone wrenches. If it is a cartridge type, the outer nuts or sleeves should simply contact the bearings. If the cartridge bearings are worn out, they must be replaced. -Calvin
No, that will deform and mushroom the rotor. The rotor also has a memory and would not conform to the flat surface. You need to bend it slightly past the point you want it to get it to bend to that point. The best way to do this is demonstrated in this video.
It would not mess it up but as metal has a memory it would just spring back. You need to bend it past where you want to to be to actually make a permanent bend.
Everyone's already bitchin about how expensive park tool is - and you want them to go out and buy a hydraulic press? Should have recommended a Tesla car then.
This video is so good that makes me want to buy a disk truing stand, even though I only have rim brakes.
Lol
😀😃😄
Juan Araque: I agree. I got it so bad that I wanted to bend my rotor just to fix it.
agreed !
😂
There's something almost meditative about Calvin's tutorials. Another top video bud thanks again.
I accident removed the inboard pad adjuster set screw and it came out along with a spring and bearing. This is on a Tektro Airies disk brake system. How do I get this reinstalled? I don’t see a place for the spring and bearing. I also heard that they may not be needed. I adjust se set screw to the rotor, backing off about 1/4 turn. No rubbing and brakes were good. I rode my bike for 106 miles with no issues. But noticed, the pad adjuster set screw was missing, meaning it came loose and fell out.
Calvin is the man!
Parktools have a fantastic line of equipment, but for me what really makes this company shine are its technicians and their ability to teach someone like myself who's willing to learn all I can.
Thanks guys, you set your company apart from the rest!
No one comes closer to calvin and park tools in term of viewer-friendly, easy to understand video tutorials. Thumbs up!
Been building a 2005 Specialized Stumpjumper with reconditioned forks and shock, every pivot bearing replaced, brand new drivetrain, headset, wheelset and brakes. Today I found the rotors I installed on the wheels 3 weeks ago were out of true new out of the box which tested my Anglo-Saxon vocabulary to its absolute limit. Watched this vid, followed the instructions and problem solved in under an hour, thanks!!!
What this guy doesn't know about bikes. Isn't worth knowing! My go to when looking for any repair. Very informative and simply explained.
This is a great video. I used the dial indicator method and was able to get my warped rotor to within +/- 0.003". Love your videos. Thanks!
Calvin is the best. Thank you for great tutorials.
Henrich Hostak 
You guys are absolutely AMAZING, THE BEST. I LOVE YOU. Im kinda newbie and dumb about bikes and such. Especially whole brake system was kinda hard to understand for me, but i wanted to fix myself. I was reading some articles etc, few videos and it didnt help me at all.But every each one of your videos is so well made, nicely and easy explained.. Only thank to your videos, i got it all now. I fixed everything i needed. Simple, easy and compared to some services very cheap. Thanks so much. Amazing job, good luck fellas.
setting the bar this high for videos, also covering any possible situation, Park Tool simply the best👑👑
I hope you get more and more subscribers. Your channel REALLY is very helpful. Simple yet very effective tutorials. Thank you.
Calvin Jones, you are the king of bike repairs, thanks!
Some of the best videos on TH-cam by a mile very professional
Very helpful tutorials for a beginner's like me.
@Ian Brown why?
@Ian Brown damn, thanks. I'll be more careful with leaning my disc-brake bike. cheers
A botch for truing on a bike at 2:50 is to use an adjustable wrench! just make sure the jaws are clean of oils.
It works most of the times, but it sure is not a pleasant process since you are constantly limited by touching spokes because jaws are so wide. Dedicated tool is like $3-4
excellent video as usual.
didn't have the tools he mentioned. just used long nose pliers and a flashlight
whatever fits your budget. i do the occasional work-around, too.
I ever tried putting the rotor on a flat working table , and looked from the side , after spotting the bended area ,I marked and used mallet knocking several times and it worked 🤫
requires disassembly, but sure.. best to use glass as is most flat while has least roughness, which helps as well
Definetely follow Calvins advice...
oh man Park Tool.. another Dynamite video... well explained and great to watch.... thanks
i use an adjustable wrench to bend rotors. it works like a charm. plus there are thicker rotors out there that dont work with this rotor bending tool
Wow i saw all videos of your park tool its fully awsome it is very useful for me thank u so much
Really very helpful Park Tools 👍🏽
It seems like the ideal thing to have would be a way to have a reference plane of the rotor down by the hub to better determine if a deviation needs to come in or out at the braking surface.
has a mustache , i trust him
i bet if he gave you candy, you'd jump into the van
How do I distinguish whether it is the wheel or disc that needs truing? I put together a new Walmart Hyper Ebike with 700c wheels and mechanical brakes. You can hear the disc rub, but you can also see the wheel wobble. At first TH-cam convinced me I have to true by going spoke to spoke, but I hadn't even thought of the disc being the culprit until I saw your video.
Fantastic tutorials! Wish the search algorithm displayed Park Tool videos before SickBike garbage.
very well demonstration，multi angles is awsome
This guy clearly know his stuff. I hope I can send my bike for him to repair
The point is to do it yourself using the tools you buy from them
Your bike will be returned with a quality control sheet signed by Calvin
Using a runout gauge seems very precise!
Perfektně, profesionálně zpracovaná videa! Díky!
That was super helpful. I've spent hours making a rotor seemingly worse. I'm going to try to use the trick of sharpie numbering and I have the park truing stand and the rotor truing tool
with those tools, i spent even more hours to make it worse.. i hate rotors.
Calvin, is the swamy of bike repairs...always good videos. 👍
~10:30 "If the rotor doesnt improve in a few minutes ... " Calvin over-estimates my mechanical speed :P Thanks for the great video as always!
Tnx so much calvin, have a good day
This was a majorly helpful video. I can do this!
that's like me trueing my 4 jaw chuck on my lathe , a little at a time , Great vid ,
Rob NSW Australia
Thanks again Calvin.
A small or medium size adjustable wrench is a good alternative for the Park Tool DT-2C Rotor Truing Fork.
These videos are incredible. Thank you so much ... I’m buying all the stuff !
This was super therapeutic.
Wow that dial indicator is awesome!
How do you know when to replace a worn out rotor? I don't mean bent, I mean like it gets used up. (If that's the case at all)
Each manufacturer has their own wear specifications. However, if you can see that the rotor thickness at the braking surface is different from the rotor arm thickness, it likely needs replacement. - Calvin
Park Tool Awesome! Thanks Calvin
This is extremely helpful. Thank you! 👌
Can i use needle nosed pliersinstead of the mtb3.2 3:30
Nice presentation and easy to understand...
Thank you
I would never a tool for that, and i´ve done it thousands off times the past 30 years.
life saving as usual
Awesome video.. sucks that both of my new RT86 rotors are warped causing actual wheel slow down.. I bought the park tool bendy tool but have a Bike Hand truing stand so probably do on bike ..
I tried all methods on my Shimano saint brakes with Hope Floating rotor and red Gaffer pads. First I tried to straighten the rotor by looking straight down at it. This worked rather well actually. I had just done service to the fork so the caliper was not in place. Once I was satisfied with how straight it looked, I braked with the lever and fastened the caliper in that position. This helped a lot, but.I still had some minor rubbing here and there. I couldn't be certain of which direction, even when I looked inside the caliper, so I just chanced it and straightened it in any direction. If the rubbing got worse I straightened it in the other direction. Lil' bit'll do ya!
I find that the two piece floating rotors tend to wander a bit and cause a small amount of rubbing. Not a big deal. Just a lil noise.
@@parktool Thanks for the input, and you may be right. I have even had to straighten the Hope vented rotors, even though Park tools doesn't make the tool for such a big rotor.
I just wanted to mix and match saint and hope parts to reduce the on and off feel of the saints. But after trying it today, the saints are too darn powerful to not have quite a lot of on off feel still. Could be the saint levers that pushes too much oil at once. I can try with XT levers and see how that feels. The Hope Tech 3 levers should be mounted on a harley davidson, being quite big and slow 2-finger levers. Hope uses DOT 4/5.1 and cant be mixed with shimanos mineral oil sadly.
What size rotors are you using? I find that sometimes one step down in rotor size can gain quite a bit of modulation, if you are willing to give up some power and heat dissipation.
@@parktool I weigh 110kg/242Ibs geared up. I can feel when a brake is to weak to stop me. :P This is the reason why I started modding my brakes in the first place. Even new Shimano XTs on 180mm rotors are to weak for my fat bottom. Now I use 203mm rotors exclusively with Saint or Hope V4, and sometimes a bit of both.
@@rewind9536 my friend is 115kg and he uses xt they are they powerful!
I love this guy. He explains so clearly and comprehensible. And don’t ever shave away that mustache :-)
yes... good info... nice presentasion...
It easy wend you have a good tool ! Thanks for video ! Regards !
Great video thanks Calvin
how about a bent axle on a freewheel? does it affect the rotor going back and forth?
How to use dt-3 tool without truing stand!?? Tnx parktool....
If you sight the gaps on either side of the rotor in between the brake calipers you can true a rotor very well.
Amazing tools, great info!
Calvin should be brand manager
Very Very helpfull! THANKS A LOT!!
1:43 Is that black "nut" cracked on bearing plate hub?
Thats just a hair. No fun cracks to deal with unfortunately.
u can do the alignment laying down the disc to smooth heavy metal then place a piece of wood 1x2 on top of the disc and try pounding it with a rubber hammer but not so hard, start with a light pounding going harder and harder as you examine the improvement.
It would be surprising if that worked, as it is hard to check the small tolerances needed against a flat surface. However, there is only one way to find out. The worst thing that will happen is you end up buying a new rotor.
How do you determine the starting point of the DT 3. I see how u started here but what if the rotor was bent in not out to start with? The DT 3 obviously can't mount going thru the spokes?
The starting point is the largest deviation as that will touch the indicator first.
@@parktool thanks for the response. more specifically i meant. what if the entire rotor is coned inward and the entire rotor only needs to come back out away from the bike? then the tool wouldnt touch it anywhere.
This is not going to help you repair a cone shaped rotor. This will help true a rotor that is not straight.
Calvin help i got DX 700 Shimano brakes the top are normal to bleed the bottom i cant find a bleed port only a allen key screw near brake barrel no nipple no rubber seal hiding one ? Need to push pads apart to align and bleed ! no nipple HELP PLEASE !
Hello Oleg, I am not familiar with the DX700 (cant find any literature on Shimano's tech site for them or anywhere online). Typically the Shimano calipers that have a small hex key and then a flush rubber cover over a port that is cast into the caliper body or there is no rubber cover but there is a port, require you to hook up your bleed syringe hose to that cast in port, then loosen the small hex key to open up the flow of mineral oil. The port may be at a downward angle making it hard to see. An image to tech@parktool.com would be help. Thanks, T.
Sorry their DX D-700 My eye,s at 50 are not what they used to be !
I'm thinking about installing a disk brake on my brake calipers bicycle but a didn't find any good video about it. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance!
Our series on disc brakes is still in the works at this time.
Hey Calvin! How is it that you got so warped and is there a tool for that?
Where can I get that wheel aligner?
Nice one very helpful
Any tips of getting brand new M8120 Shimano 4piston XT brake pads to not rattle ?? Driving me nuts..
I have the same brakes and am dealing with the same issue. Will keep you posted on the solution. As of now increased spring tension and added a bit of protective tape where the fins meet the caliper body.
@@parktool lol yeah there are tons of forum threads on it but best advice was wait till they get full of brake dust. I have 2 other bikes with single pistons and the pads are def tighter in the caliper. I was thinking about either cutting and apply strips of gorilla tape or applying liquid electric tape (liquid rubber). I talked to 2 bike shop techs in passing, they thought I was crazy...it is driving me nuts..
@@parktool what tape did you use? Protective frame tape? I just don't want anything to heat up and get sticky..
My new bike from big box came with the front rotor vented. It is cheaper and faster just to buy a new one?. Thanks.
An inexpensive one is great to practice on. Give it a shot straightening and then you have a little more knowledge. Then if you cannot get the rotor straight or it is not going well, then replace the rotor. Many rotors are slightly bent from the factory and need to be fine tuned. I find this to be true at any price point for rotors.
Park Tool Thankssss. I will watch this video again. You are my source for my new hobby. A lot to learn here.
wow youre the man!
Hey, is rubbing alcohol good for cleaning disc rotors?
Yes, it works fine.
Park Tool ok thanks!
Nice one 👍 👌 👏 😀
How does it bends?
isn't the dt-3 scratching the rotor while you are measuring it?
No need to worry about scratching your rotor. That being said the tip of the DT-3 is rounded so it does not scratch the rotor. People often use sand paper or Emory cloth to rough up and scratch their rotor to de glaze it so it stops making noise. So, Scratches are not a bad thing for rotors.
@@parktool ok thanks for the reply
Never had the need to retrue my hope V4 vented rotors... 😎
Can this be done in local bike shop? Or can it cause some long term damage?
Sram x7 or slx set? Which one suggest?
Apologies for chiming in but I don't know who else could give me reliable advice. I recently bought - not yet installed - a Deda Elementi 120mm stem (model: Superzero), which has a clamp height of 36mm instead of the usual 40 or 41mm. Will the reduced contact area between stem and carbon steerer tube (Cannondale SuperSix Evo) potentially endanger the integrity of the carbon steerer tube? Thank you in advance for your reply.
A big fat negative. The steering tube is not made by paper, just don't over tighten it.
eu tava esperando esse vídeo, era umas das coisas que faltavam!
Your a Pro!!!
Isso que eu chamo de serviço bem feito!
Hey could someone help me ? I bleed my brakes and it got really bad it’s only in my rear I sanded my brake pads and cleaned it and I cleaned the rotor and I bleed it again and it is still bad. Please help me thanks! And the brakes are Tektro HDC M285, Hydraulic Disc, on a Giant Talon 2
You are being as specific as saying it hurts to the doctor but not telling where.
How are they bad? What is the problem? What are the "symptoms" of said problem?
Great tools.👍
Would heating the rotor help at all?
No, that will not help with alignment.
my front breaking pads aren't pressing fully on the rotor, 2 mm of the upper part of the pads are untouched, and thus my front brakes aren't good. what can i do to solve this problem?
If the pads are not fully contacting the rotor, there is a height issue with the caliper body. There may be a spacer under the body, or you may have the wrong adapter.
Park Tool oh! Yeah that makes sense. Thanks a lot!
My rotor is very spightly bent and the pistons are pushed out how do i push them in?
Use a blunt, flat object to push them back in if you don't have a piston spreader.
My rotor is very slightly bent, could the rotor just bend itself back when it gets used?
While we might say all things are possible, it does not seem this would be probable. You might have a crash or impact that by chance moves it just right, yet, it seem highly unlikely. Just by riding and braking, there is no force to move the rotor back to straight.
Some people say that if you break hard/long so that they are really hot that they get true again, if the impact was mechanical before. Although i have not testet this (and it is bad for the brake pads).
Always remember to never get your pee pee stuck in the rotor
P P Rotor. That's my next video game characters name
Instructions unclear...
Mike Chivy I know right I’m glad I don’t have that problem with the va-jay-jay
Looks Fun.
Can i use a cresent wrench?
that's what I use and it does the job done just make sure it's not contaminated with oil or grease
Won't bending it with plier cause cracks and terrible crash?
The steel is rather malleable and does not crack. It is not always successful to align these, but terrible crashes have not seemed to be an issue.
Loved the hotdog!!
Please some oil fall into the rear brake and it is not efficient as it used to be what should i do ?
Some oil is now on your rear caliper pads? It is very difficult to clean oil from the pads, replacement is the best option. You may try one thing, and that is remove the pads, lightly sand the surface, and replace. But again, replacement is best.
Burn the pads, I am not kidding, use a pan, heat them till they stop smoking, sand them then try. Only do this on a metallic pad, organic will become useless after heating.
Thanks
Abdalrahman Manaa and don't forget to wipe both the disc and the pads with alcohol!!! You can pour alcohol over hot pads as well, it will be better. I did this and I made my pads work like new again.
Milind S. Vashist thank you sir 😍😍
Just wondering who would put their sausage close to a running disk brake.....if you know what I mean ;)
Underrated comment
better question is... who wouldn't?
how do I fix bearing play at the hub? when the wheel is on the bike there is play but of it there isn't any, so what do I do?
It depends on the hub and bearing design. Remember the wheel extends the lever to check for play. When the hub is out of the bike, there may be play, but because you are moving the axle only, it may not be obvious. The "cup and cone" designs can be adjusted for play, using cone wrenches. If it is a cartridge type, the outer nuts or sleeves should simply contact the bearings. If the cartridge bearings are worn out, they must be replaced.
-Calvin
thanks Calvin
O
Full professional video! Thank you very much!
What is the name of that rotor on the thumnail
That is a SRAM Centerline rotor.
can i hammered the rotor in flat surface?
No, that will deform and mushroom the rotor. The rotor also has a memory and would not conform to the flat surface. You need to bend it slightly past the point you want it to get it to bend to that point. The best way to do this is demonstrated in this video.
yes - if you want to make a samurai sword out of it.
Would it be possible to just put it under an hydraulic press if possible? I mean would it mess it up?
It would not mess it up but as metal has a memory it would just spring back. You need to bend it past where you want to to be to actually make a permanent bend.
Everyone's already bitchin about how expensive park tool is - and you want them to go out and buy a hydraulic press? Should have recommended a Tesla car then.
I'm still waiting a kit that have every single product of park tool
PascalGame indonesia lmao they have thousands of tools
Benotto México oficial page has one, it's named park tool master kit.
thanks
you guys know how to make a video. Long live Hollywood
We're actually based in Saint Paul, Minnesota, but we'll take the compliment!
if it was Hollywood, Sam Elliot would play Calvin.