@@DR_1_1 unless there's been some sort of trauma that's been done to the rim i think that the majority can be fixed. My first try at fixing lateral issues was about 2 months ago and i couldn't get anything done so i ordered new spokes and laced it up and trued it up and now it's perfection. YT is the very best at learning new hobbies and researching issues.
Park Tools provide some of the best instructional videos in the world, on any platform. They’re models of clarity and concision. Massive congrats to Calvin and the entire team. They create brand loyalty by creating superb content. When I need some bike maintenance kit, even if it costs a little bit extra, I buy Park Tools kit as a ‘thank you’.
These videos are so well done. I learn so much from watching them. I am able to work on my bikes myself. I previously learned from Park Tool vids how to adjust my front and rear derailleurs, which was immensely helpful and rewarding. Having this know-how is more than about saving money from taking my bikes to a shop, it's very satisfying to be able to it myself, and gives me a sense of control. I can't thank Park Tool enough.
I have never been much of a comic book reader. But, if we need a super hero, Mr. Jones would be a good one. This guy knows his stuff and loves teaching bike maintenance. I have gotten help from him at an event and attended a couple demonstrations, he is such a class act. Bet his blood runs Park Tool blue, Thank you Mr. Jones!
The Gold Standard of cycle maintance videos - clear explanations and excellent graphics & photography - and all for free. Awesome!! A Big Thank-You. Love the spoke squeeze tip at 6:26 :-)
The feeling of not only lacing and tension a wheel, but knowing its perfectly dished and trued, is great! Just another part of the bicycle that I have conquered! You da man Calvin!
Park Tool knows me sooo well! I just laterally trued my wheel (I’ve tried to aim for perfection in the past and turned a 10 minute job in to 6 hours so have learned to live with 0.2-0.5mm) last night but have been very concerned about a high spot and how to correct this without putting it back out of whack! Now I know how to sort it!
Finally … 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 So lateral truing, no probs. Radial … ahem … mystery!! … But no longer! So rather longer operation (when youre still a novice wheel jedi) and maybe not always pulling (tightening) spokes, learn to slacken in opposite direction seems to help. And of course you really dont want to do the same job again and again - going back to redo lateral work but theres no choice unless you’re lucky. Took maybe 90 mins in 15-20 sessions to finish build and true for radial. Its pretty good, my tolerance is a standard business card between rim and wheel true gauges. Impressed, really lifted the veil of mystery for radial here, had read conflicting advice previously. Locate. Isolate. Correct. And … Patience is key!
This video is so excellent. Thank you! I have a 26" x 4" fat tire rim that hard to replace in bright yellow. I don't know why, but colored rims are hard to find, or very expensive. This video has saved me a lot of money. 👍
These videos are exceptionally good tutorials. I am looking forward to applying the principles soon to true my wheel that is rubbing on the brake on each revolution and I need to replace a spoke on my other bike and tension it.
These tutorials are very informative, but I have a question about this one. It may be difficult for someone new to wheel truing to identify the difference between high spots and low spots in radial truing, especially if the regions they are present in are very large. Imagine a hypothetical scenario where approximately half of a wheel is a high spot (relative to the "closest possible" set of perfectly true spoke nipple tensions, that is, the set of spoke tensions requiring the least adjustment from the initial state to result in a wheel with 0mm deviation at all points) and the other half is a low spot. The correct solution given perfect knowledge is to slightly tighten the nipples in the high spot and slightly loosen the nipples in the low spot (this will result in the aforementioned "closest possible" set of nipple tensions). However, someone with less experience may see the high spot region as incorrect and the low spot region as incorrect, and only tighten the nipples in the high spot region. There are a number of issues regarding the hypothetical scenario above, including but probably not limited to the following: There may not be a "correct" solution for any given initial wheel trueness state. The "closest possible" set may be ideal as it hypothetically requires the least effort, but even an expert may not be able to achieve it for a multitude of practical reasons. Closely related to the above point, it may be the case that multiple (average) wheel outer radii are sufficient. That is, one can imagine that when truing a wheel they either reduce its (average) outer radius (by tightening the wheel more than they loosened it) or increase it (by loosening it more than they tightened it). It is possible that both solutions may be correct from a given initial state of the wheel, that is, they yield sufficient tolerances and cause no other issues with the bike (being overall way too tight or too loose, etc). It is impossible in practice to achieve exactly 0mm of deviation even at a particular point of the wheel, much less across its entire circumference. However, despite all these considerations, my main point is as follows: an inexperienced bike truer may misidentify certain regions of the bike and make corrections that are not ideal. The main situation I can think of where this would occur is when they made the wheel overall too tight (in which case parts may be likely to break or wear down) or too loose (in which case spokes may continue to loosen, causing the wheel to lose its trueness and otherwise malfunction). I took many words to explain this probably insignificant concern, but I was curious how realistic it is for one to true a bike "incorrectly" (not including mistakes like failing to lubricate a difficult spoke, etc.) and how to avoid mistakes like those discussed in this comment.
@@parktool It was really great man! I got a nearly 1cm deviation (egg shaped wheel) to a laterally and radially tru wheel close as 1MM (what you recommended) . My only grievance is you didn't suggest to destress (the only way I know that works: fisting my hands and putting as much pressure as I can (with body weight ) into each pair of spokes on each side // 1 cross) Speaking from experience riding a bike to break in the spokes) leads to broken spokes a buckled wheel and hours more of my time.
What you describe is a symptom of a bent rim. If the metal hoop has been struck, and a section pushed inward, you get a low spot. Remove the tire and inspect the rim in this area. If it is a minor low spot and just one spoke is involved it does not make the rim un-rideable. If you can feel the low spot as you ride, replace the rim.
@@parktool Makes sense. The rim is true under 1mm except the low spot where is about 2mm. I don't feel it when riding. I can live with it, thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
Great vid. Only left out rechecking true after de stressing. It’s not uncommon for it to need additional truing after de stressing. You can also destress without riding but you need something set up to do that…
destressing whilst riding is honestly the worst advice I've ever seen Park Tools give. I have a aggressive low-spot (that I can ride with) but need to fix. so I will on a day off :) just built my first wheel (ever) and its not perfect but its good enough to ride on now. Just need to circle it properly.
How to differentiate a large low spot from a high spot when you have a big section of it, say, half a wheel? Is it that section that is high or the other opposite half that is actually low? I am having a hard time doing that...
If it is half a wheel I would say that one side is high and one side is low and equilizing the two is going to be the solution. You can do this by tightening the high spot then slightly loosening the low spot then tightening the high spot and going back and forth being sure to maintain spoke tension and trueness through the process.
My Chinese carbon fiber wheel started detentioning on rear non drive. It was pretty easy to fix. I tried changing aluminum rim on 26" bike it works but pretty wobbly. Are aluminum rims harder to true.
thanks a lot for your video, they are the best by far i found! i just want fixe one mistake in this at 8:20 . the rotation on the picture is wrong! i begun to be confused like "oh no, i didn't understand anything at how the spokes work" ^^
Question. For the high spots, the video indicates tightening 1/2 turn to start with. Direction arrow is counter clockwise and consistent with tightening arrow on radial videos. For low spots we’re directed to loosen, but why is directional arrow also counterclockwise? Shouldn’t it be opposite of high spots?
It depends on what you mean as "opposite". If there is a high spot at the valve for example, the spokes 180º away are not the problem for this valve spot. It is the spokes at or next to the area of concern.
I can't seem to get rid of a tiny bump around the area where the rim is fused together. (I don't mean a burr but an actual height increase) I could increase spoke tension in that area but then one spoke would exceed the maximum recommended spoke tension for the rim as specified by the manufacturer. I wonder if it is common to have a "tricky spot" in the area where the rim ends are fused? (The difference is less than a mm but still very visible)
I have couple of doubt : 1) Is truing double walled rim the same? 2) Can we even true the double wall rim? 3) Is there a any special care or precaution that should be taken whilst truing double walled rims? Thanks in advance 🙌
what if lateral is true, but the low spot spokes are too loose. I have the tm-1 tool, and the other spokes are within spec. Newer wheels that haven't seen a big bump. I'm lost.
Numbers (typically) don't lie. It might not have hit a bump, but it possible it was manufactured with a slight deformity. Pull up tension if you can everywhere else but do not tighten that low spot.
@@parktool i got it to 1 mm. Now i fix the lateral true again. And then I'm onto to tension balancing with the TM-1. These spokes are 166 mm its hard to Guage by feel alone
Typically less expensive wheels have a weaker rim and will go out of true quicker. But just because a wheel is more expensive does not mean it will automatically be stronger. Weight, strength, aerodynamics, width and visual appeal are all reasons someone may spend more on a wheel. So just because it costs more does not always mean it will be stronger.
Does anything change substantially with carbon rims? I've heard they mostly either come true out of the factory, or they'll never be true (especially with deep section rims). This is probably an oversimplification, but maybe you can provide some insight.
If it is a well built rim, carbon fiber is very easy and pull up quickly. They are very rigid and stay true a long time. If poorly build, they are hard to get straight for the same reasons.
Slacken and slacken opposite side more, meet in the middle so to speak. Gotta learn to slacken also as tightening forever doesnt work (in my experience)
First step In doing something correctly is having the correct tools and knowing how to use them. I guess I need a trueing stand now. One of my biggest pet peeves is an untrue wheel. Drive me insane!
weird question but is it possible to convert a future shock 1.5 to a normal 1 1/8 fork. Can I get a adapter for my future shock fork because the steer tube hight is short and also wider than 1 1/8? Can I get a adapter so I can fit a normal 1 1/8 in fork?
@@vdel7418 true. I’m almost considering buying a new frame just because the future shock literally adds a pound to my bike and I definitely don’t need it. Haha
The tip of the calipers have optional plastic tips. Some people prefer the metal on metal for the more audible sound. This is especially nice on rim brake rims. They will be scratched anyway.
This is so insanely hard to get within 1mm. Especially so because it throws the lateral off. This is insanely hard because it is difficult to tell if it's a high or low spot, or If the rim is even perfectly round
Still not convinced about your destressing advice. Just put the trued wheel on the carpet, push all sides, put it on one side and push the rim, other side and push the rim... Next, put it in the truing stand and you will immediately see the wheel has to have some truing corrections. Don't just ride it, it slows down the whole process (mounting the tire, riding, demounting, truing,...)...
Omgggggg.... how many times are you going to define what a wheel is, what a spoke is, how it works together, what tools you need. “Video 78, this is a wheel, a wheel truing stand is used to true a wheel. Spoke create tension”..... fukkkk we know!!!’ On with the details!!!! Slowest video ever. You’re getting all of my down votes!
Great video !!! Still confused about small aspect ... so if I do proper later and radial small increment truing I technically don't need to actually measure each individual spoke for tension? If and when, when I am actually checking the actual tension measurement? Thanks in advance.
"When to Stop" is probably the most important chapter
Especially for those of us with clinical OCD.
Yet new wheels look 100% true (at least some of them)... maybe that's not possible once they have been used with bumps in the rim.
@@DR_1_1 unless there's been some sort of trauma that's been done to the rim i think that the majority can be fixed. My first try at fixing lateral issues was about 2 months ago and i couldn't get anything done so i ordered new spokes and laced it up and trued it up and now it's perfection. YT is the very best at learning new hobbies and researching issues.
Me
Quality of those tutorials is world class truly.
Thanks!
The quality of these tutorial by Park Tool is world class, second to none.
When I first saw the Destressing title frame at 10:44 I thought you meant going for a ride after the stress of doing all that detailed work 😄
This guy is the Bike God himself :DD
Park Tools provide some of the best instructional videos in the world, on any platform. They’re models of clarity and concision. Massive congrats to Calvin and the entire team. They create brand loyalty by creating superb content. When I need some bike maintenance kit, even if it costs a little bit extra, I buy Park Tools kit as a ‘thank you’.
These videos are so well done. I learn so much from watching them. I am able to work on my bikes myself. I previously learned from Park Tool vids how to adjust my front and rear derailleurs, which was immensely helpful and rewarding. Having this know-how is more than about saving money from taking my bikes to a shop, it's very satisfying to be able to it myself, and gives me a sense of control. I can't thank Park Tool enough.
I have never been much of a comic book reader.
But, if we need a super hero, Mr. Jones would be a good one.
This guy knows his stuff and loves teaching bike maintenance. I have gotten help from him at an event and attended a couple demonstrations, he is such a class act. Bet his blood runs Park Tool blue,
Thank you Mr. Jones!
The Gold Standard of cycle maintance videos - clear explanations and excellent graphics & photography - and all for free. Awesome!! A Big Thank-You. Love the spoke squeeze tip at 6:26 :-)
The first and best tutorial I’ve ever watched,
Absolutely excellent tutorial series. It is so nice to see the normal measuring system used in an English speaking video. Triple thumbs up!
V
The feeling of not only lacing and tension a wheel, but knowing its perfectly dished and trued, is great! Just another part of the bicycle that I have conquered! You da man Calvin!
Park Tool knows me sooo well! I just laterally trued my wheel (I’ve tried to aim for perfection in the past and turned a 10 minute job in to 6 hours so have learned to live with 0.2-0.5mm) last night but have been very concerned about a high spot and how to correct this without putting it back out of whack! Now I know how to sort it!
You guys are doing an amazing job, love these videos!
I truly love those videos SO much - thanks to youtube I can do things I never could have done before. Thanks for your effort and time!
Nice and clear voice, easy to understand
Thank,s guy,s. Just refreshing from your older vids.
Very impressed with the videos from Park Tool. They are so well done!
This is incredibly helpful, thank you so much.
You're very welcome!
Finally … 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
So lateral truing, no probs.
Radial … ahem … mystery!! …
But no longer!
So rather longer operation (when youre still a novice wheel jedi) and maybe not always pulling (tightening) spokes, learn to slacken in opposite direction seems to help.
And of course you really dont want to do the same job again and again - going back to redo lateral work but theres no choice unless you’re lucky.
Took maybe 90 mins in 15-20 sessions to finish build and true for radial.
Its pretty good, my tolerance is a standard business card between rim and wheel true gauges.
Impressed, really lifted the veil of mystery for radial here, had read conflicting advice previously.
Locate.
Isolate.
Correct.
And …
Patience is key!
These videos are terrific and professional. I am thankful Park supports us with these. Calvin for USA President1 LOL
Excellent video. I wish my LBS would watch it so they'd stop showing me my radial issues and actually fix them.
Just the best info, so comprehensive. Many thanks.
This video is so excellent. Thank you! I have a 26" x 4" fat tire rim that hard to replace in bright yellow. I don't know why, but colored rims are hard to find, or very expensive. This video has saved me a lot of money. 👍
Awasome, everything visible and complete tutorial THX 🙏
These videos are exceptionally good tutorials. I am looking forward to applying the principles soon to true my wheel that is rubbing on the brake on each revolution and I need to replace a spoke on my other bike and tension it.
These tutorials are very informative, but I have a question about this one.
It may be difficult for someone new to wheel truing to identify the difference between high spots and low spots in radial truing, especially if the regions they are present in are very large. Imagine a hypothetical scenario where approximately half of a wheel is a high spot (relative to the "closest possible" set of perfectly true spoke nipple tensions, that is, the set of spoke tensions requiring the least adjustment from the initial state to result in a wheel with 0mm deviation at all points) and the other half is a low spot. The correct solution given perfect knowledge is to slightly tighten the nipples in the high spot and slightly loosen the nipples in the low spot (this will result in the aforementioned "closest possible" set of nipple tensions). However, someone with less experience may see the high spot region as incorrect and the low spot region as incorrect, and only tighten the nipples in the high spot region.
There are a number of issues regarding the hypothetical scenario above, including but probably not limited to the following:
There may not be a "correct" solution for any given initial wheel trueness state. The "closest possible" set may be ideal as it hypothetically requires the least effort, but even an expert may not be able to achieve it for a multitude of practical reasons.
Closely related to the above point, it may be the case that multiple (average) wheel outer radii are sufficient. That is, one can imagine that when truing a wheel they either reduce its (average) outer radius (by tightening the wheel more than they loosened it) or increase it (by loosening it more than they tightened it). It is possible that both solutions may be correct from a given initial state of the wheel, that is, they yield sufficient tolerances and cause no other issues with the bike (being overall way too tight or too loose, etc).
It is impossible in practice to achieve exactly 0mm of deviation even at a particular point of the wheel, much less across its entire circumference.
However, despite all these considerations, my main point is as follows: an inexperienced bike truer may misidentify certain regions of the bike and make corrections that are not ideal. The main situation I can think of where this would occur is when they made the wheel overall too tight (in which case parts may be likely to break or wear down) or too loose (in which case spokes may continue to loosen, causing the wheel to lose its trueness and otherwise malfunction).
I took many words to explain this probably insignificant concern, but I was curious how realistic it is for one to true a bike "incorrectly" (not including mistakes like failing to lubricate a difficult spoke, etc.) and how to avoid mistakes like those discussed in this comment.
Excellent video. Well explained.
Thank you for explaining this. I didn’t know there was “radial truing”.
Excellent tutorial.
Glad you liked it!
@@parktool It was really great man! I got a nearly 1cm deviation (egg shaped wheel) to a laterally and radially tru wheel close as 1MM (what you recommended) . My only grievance is you didn't suggest to destress (the only way I know that works: fisting my hands and putting as much pressure as I can (with body weight ) into each pair of spokes on each side // 1 cross) Speaking from experience riding a bike to break in the spokes) leads to broken spokes a buckled wheel and hours more of my time.
How do I correct a low spot isolated by one spoke when the spoke is already too loose? Great detail oriented and informative video.
What you describe is a symptom of a bent rim. If the metal hoop has been struck, and a section pushed inward, you get a low spot. Remove the tire and inspect the rim in this area. If it is a minor low spot and just one spoke is involved it does not make the rim un-rideable. If you can feel the low spot as you ride, replace the rim.
@@parktool Makes sense. The rim is true under 1mm except the low spot where is about 2mm. I don't feel it when riding. I can live with it, thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
Great videos. Thank you. I learned a lot.
Great and informative video. Thank you Park Tool.
Great vid. Only left out rechecking true after de stressing. It’s not uncommon for it to need additional truing after de stressing. You can also destress without riding but you need something set up to do that…
destressing whilst riding is honestly the worst advice I've ever seen Park Tools give. I have a aggressive low-spot (that I can ride with) but need to fix. so I will on a day off :) just built my first wheel (ever) and its not perfect but its good enough to ride on now. Just need to circle it properly.
These are excellent videos! Thanks!
So thankful for this knowledge!
thank you, sir! you save my day.
Ну наконец очень нужное видел сняли..Прям хорошо показали и объяснили..You're the best men). Nice video
Thank you so much for demystifying and explaining this process carefully. I would never have thought I'd be able to do this before the pandemic.
How to differentiate a large low spot from a high spot when you have a big section of it, say, half a wheel? Is it that section that is high or the other opposite half that is actually low? I am having a hard time doing that...
If it is half a wheel I would say that one side is high and one side is low and equilizing the two is going to be the solution. You can do this by tightening the high spot then slightly loosening the low spot then tightening the high spot and going back and forth being sure to maintain spoke tension and trueness through the process.
@@parktool thanks so much my friends!
I love this man, so much to learn
Great video--thanks.
Wonderful video. Thank you
My Chinese carbon fiber wheel started detentioning on rear non drive. It was pretty easy to fix. I tried changing aluminum rim on 26" bike it works but pretty wobbly. Are aluminum rims harder to true.
thanks a lot for your video, they are the best by far i found!
i just want fixe one mistake in this at 8:20 . the rotation on the picture is wrong! i begun to be confused like "oh no, i didn't understand anything at how the spokes work" ^^
Thanks for this catch. Too bad youtubes cannot be edited for this stuff. The action is correct, but the image is wrong.
I always was afraid of radial truing. With this guide - not anymore!
amazing
very useful video
Question. For the high spots, the video indicates tightening 1/2 turn to start with. Direction arrow is counter clockwise and consistent with tightening arrow on radial videos. For low spots we’re directed to loosen, but why is directional arrow also counterclockwise? Shouldn’t it be opposite of high spots?
Thanks a lot
Do you destress after each true exercise (lateral, radial, centering) or after all three?
Simply de-stress after you are compete, as the last step. Spin one more time to see nothing significant has changed, and your done.
Perfect. Thanks!
Should i cut spokes when truing to balance the wheel?
Who else is watching this within the first 30 hours of it being posted! We are the truest!!!
When do you just accept the the wheel is bent or damaged beyond being able to take out the high spots ?
Could it also be a cause that the spokes on the opposite side of the high or low spots are too loose or tight?
It depends on what you mean as "opposite". If there is a high spot at the valve for example, the spokes 180º away are not the problem for this valve spot. It is the spokes at or next to the area of concern.
Yes that is what I meant. The spokes on the opposite side of the rim.
Not typically.
it’s a 1 1/2 for the upper bearing is there anyway to convert that to a 1 1/8?
www.mcmaster.com/bearings/ball-bearings/
I can't seem to get rid of a tiny bump around the area where the rim is fused together. (I don't mean a burr but an actual height increase) I could increase spoke tension in that area but then one spoke would exceed the maximum recommended spoke tension for the rim as specified by the manufacturer. I wonder if it is common to have a "tricky spot" in the area where the rim ends are fused? (The difference is less than a mm but still very visible)
Where the rim is jointed together you will typically have a deviation that you may not be able to adjust out.
@@parktool Thanks for the reply! Both my new rims indeed seem to have this.
I have couple of doubt :
1) Is truing double walled rim the same?
2) Can we even true the double wall rim?
3) Is there a any special care or precaution that should be taken whilst truing double walled rims?
Thanks in advance 🙌
All the rims in this video are double walled rims. So, it is the same, you can true them and there are no special precautions.
what if lateral is true, but the low spot spokes are too loose. I have the tm-1 tool, and the other spokes are within spec. Newer wheels that haven't seen a big bump. I'm lost.
Numbers (typically) don't lie. It might not have hit a bump, but it possible it was manufactured with a slight deformity. Pull up tension if you can everywhere else but do not tighten that low spot.
Thank you@@parktool
What do you guys recommend when half the wheel could be a high spot or half could be a low spot? Im building a wheel and it's like playing whackamole!
Yes, sort of. Consider you are moving high spots and low spots around until it is adequately round.
@@parktool i got it to 1 mm. Now i fix the lateral true again. And then I'm onto to tension balancing with the TM-1. These spokes are 166 mm its hard to Guage by feel alone
Excellent
this dude looks like zappa! 🙌
Can a bad wheel cause the disc brake to cling on the caliper?
Unlikely in the extreme.
can radial truing be done with the tire on?
Yes, but it is more difficult to see the low and high areas.
Thank you
What if high spot on tight spokes?
Do cheaper wheels untrue faster? I feel like Im always tightening loose spokes
Typically less expensive wheels have a weaker rim and will go out of true quicker. But just because a wheel is more expensive does not mean it will automatically be stronger. Weight, strength, aerodynamics, width and visual appeal are all reasons someone may spend more on a wheel. So just because it costs more does not always mean it will be stronger.
Does anything change substantially with carbon rims? I've heard they mostly either come true out of the factory, or they'll never be true (especially with deep section rims). This is probably an oversimplification, but maybe you can provide some insight.
If it is a well built rim, carbon fiber is very easy and pull up quickly. They are very rigid and stay true a long time. If poorly build, they are hard to get straight for the same reasons.
Ok what if the spokes are overtightened in those spots where we need to tighten to correct radial truing :(
Slacken and slacken opposite side more, meet in the middle so to speak.
Gotta learn to slacken also as tightening forever doesnt work (in my experience)
First step In doing something correctly is having the correct tools and knowing how to use them. I guess I need a trueing stand now. One of my biggest pet peeves is an untrue wheel. Drive me insane!
weird question but is it possible to convert a future shock 1.5 to a normal 1 1/8 fork. Can I get a adapter for my future shock fork because the steer tube hight is short and also wider than 1 1/8? Can I get a adapter so I can fit a normal 1 1/8 in fork?
you probably could if you get bearings that fit well enough
@@vdel7418 true. I’m almost considering buying a new frame just because the future shock literally adds a pound to my bike and I definitely don’t need it. Haha
I have i wheel, that 1/2 is High Spot, other 1/2 is Low Spot. And thats with small tension.
This man is the most gangster I've ever seen im fuckin impressed
I want to buy this tool
Me too. I've had some success truing wheels in the frame, but this would be a lot easier I think.
7:18 that spike calipers seems like scratched the rims and could damaging the rim also
The tip of the calipers have optional plastic tips. Some people prefer the metal on metal for the more audible sound. This is especially nice on rim brake rims. They will be scratched anyway.
This is so insanely hard to get within 1mm. Especially so because it throws the lateral off. This is insanely hard because it is difficult to tell if it's a high or low spot, or If the rim is even perfectly round
now I'm glad I got mag alloy wheels.
I always have a problem with radial trueing
8:20 losen right or left
1mm…..keep very precise for true wheel!!
Thank you for providing the tolerance of 1mm is used. However an explanation of how to radially true the rim would make the video more useful.
thx dad
8:52 Halt 😂😂😂
Kusheen was here...
Still not convinced about your destressing advice. Just put the trued wheel on the carpet, push all sides, put it on one side and push the rim, other side and push the rim...
Next, put it in the truing stand and you will immediately see the wheel has to have some truing corrections. Don't just ride it, it slows down the whole process (mounting the tire, riding, demounting, truing,...)...
video starts at 4:03 dont thank me
I keept rounding my wheel and opened a portal to the round multiverse....
Am I really this early
radrunner got a flat spot....needs puller.... The spoke wrench did absolutely nothing for it
With a flat spot like that you are best to get a new wheel or have a new rim laced to your current hub.
Content is good but the noise in the background (guitar bloat?) when explaining stuff ruins the whole video - really sucks.
Hey I actually got the second comment on a video for once
its the porn-mustache-bike-machanik-god
Good info, bad music 👎
Omgggggg.... how many times are you going to define what a wheel is, what a spoke is, how it works together, what tools you need. “Video 78, this is a wheel, a wheel truing stand is used to true a wheel. Spoke create tension”..... fukkkk we know!!!’ On with the details!!!! Slowest video ever. You’re getting all of my down votes!
Great video !!! Still confused about small aspect ... so if I do proper later and radial small increment truing I technically don't need to actually measure each individual spoke for tension? If and when, when I am actually checking the actual tension measurement? Thanks in advance.
Take a measurement of maybe 10 spokes, to get an average. In many cases you don't need everyone. Measure after other corrections are made.
This is top notch educational tricks of the trade with no bullshit virtual classroom right here. Well done👏!!🚵🚴🚲🦽🏁