When I was serving my time we always used browning mixed in the tin bath, tipped on one end because of the hole in it and sand & cement when doing damps. Only really used bonding on boards or when using those daft arch kits, when they were all the rage. 👍
Here in Ireland i dont see hardwall. Gyproc skimcoat.we have bonding but as you said issues with it. Most plasters sand and cement inside new bungalows. And skim over. Or dot and dap first. Insulated slabs are the norme inside on outer walls on new buildings for engery efficiency. Good video.👌🇮🇪
Hardwall is in the name...it was used in areas where it was needed where it needed to be hard ie flats industrial stairwells and a hospital I worked on years ago.. its alot harder once set
Mate - amateur occasional plasterer here. Having a pig of a day with bonding and figured there must be an easier way. This vid is for ME. Thanks mate 🍻🍻
Kirk is Hard wall the modern equivalent of Browning? When I left school I worked for a builder and when the two plasterers came in I had to do all the mixing by hand, no power mixers in those days! A wooden stick followed by a bike front cog welded on to a metal bar with a bent over handle. Keeping two qualified plasterers supplied with either Bonding or Browning, finish and clean water was a tough job at 16! 😂
Gotta reiterate it again.... you've got a great channel growing around your personality and clarity in front of the camera. Every video gets more professional 👏 Long may it continue.
Hand full in bonding in finish sometimes I’ve used ! Other than that bonding was for concrete’ and your spot on’ …! You can’t mix bonding with hard wall’ there’s a chemical reaction’ if you run out of material!! 👍🏻
Loving the content mate, you put things in an easy to understand way that I'm sure will help a lot of less experienced spreads. Great points about using on solid walls to. As a good rule of thumb we say avoid any product that is gypsum based on solid walls for the reasons you mentioned. Sand and cement or limelite renovating plaster are our go to's in this situation. Unless over membrane in which case its back to hardwall. Keep up the good work mate 👍
Thanks for the little tip. I'm looking at doing my outer walls on my old property that's for a double brick (header and stretcher skin) and was going to go with Hardwall, but now will look at Limelite. I don't fancy doing the sand and cement mixing thing, so will just buys bags of Limelite. Is it applied the same as Hardwall (2 coat)
Kirk remember tilcon limelite that was nice to use on old brickwork to stop the salt etc coming through plaster but the skimming was a biatch to use like spreading rubber lol but old skool boys put hand full lime in mix can’t beat old skool lads 👍🏻
Hey Kirk, your channel is amazing, learning a lot. This video definitely hits my situation right now. Got a garage to plaster and wanted to use Hardwall. Having second thoughts tho as the dry blocks are pretty old and not as dense as usual, very rough texture with pronounced "holes"/"air pockets". On top of that they have been (poorly) painted so should I just stay away from Hardwall? Strip the paint and use hardwall maybe? Or just not be lazy and dot and dab plasterboards? As the bricks seem to breath a lot (despite the paint and quite likely due to their VERY aerated design from the 70s), a bit worried about moisture overtime. Thank again for the great content!
@@Onthetrowel didn't really notice it mate. Just keep being yourself on the videos. Thats what makes it good i think. Entertaining and very useful tips
Great video pal loads of good information on their , i always prefer too float out whenever I can instead of dot and dab far superior and more job satisfaction at the end of it. Love hardwall but can't beat sand + cement 👌
As far as I know, and I'm quite old. Well in north Wales, internal work was called floating, mostly it was sand and cement mixed at six to one.rubbed up and skimmed, then there was some jobs were for one reason or another carlite had to be used. Carlite browning was always used to float out , later on I used hardwall to do the same thing. Bonding wasn't for floating out a house or a hospital come to that, and if you're working on any older property, then avoid bonding it's totally unsuitable for any damp or perished brickwork.
Absolutely spot on Shaun. Nice to have some of the old school on board. If you've got any advice for the next generation of spreads then let me know and I'll put it in a video mate 👍👍
Hi Shaun. I’ve got internal outer walls to take back to block work due to severe damp. They’re solid 9” walls. Would you recommend sand and cement with an additive or use a specialised damp render. Thanks in advance of your reply. Cheers Craig.
@@bambibigboy hi, maybe use limelite which is designed for the damp but expensive or a scratch coat and top coat in sand cement with a waterproof additive. Or look at some damp proofing systems that are manufactured for problem jobs. Dryzone are good.
Absolutely bang on fella , especially the damp section... See to many people use gypsum plaster downstairs in old Houses! Its defo a no no... And you are right to avoid dry coat, ive has several issues with limelight which is the same sort of gear!! Keep the content coming buddy 👍
Really helpful this towards end about the no cavities 9inch wall great advice was thinking you could just dot and dab onto maybe use insulated plaster board instead that still a option could would consider?
If you wanted to be 100% safe then just give it a good coat of sand and cement with waterproofer or give it a coat of British gypsum's dricoat first an then do whatever you want on the top
Thanks so much OTT you've answered all my questions in that video & thanks also for the Data sheet & the 9 inch wall tip too please keep up the good work 😀 👍
If you have to float on a low suction background and you would rather use hardwall just simply scratch coat with bonding first then when set float over with Hardwall......simples.
You can use hardwall on a solid wall as long as that wall is dry or you have externally insulated and rendered.! I phoned BG technical and was told it wasent a problem 😊
When you have external wall insulation installed you have covered your house in a layer of polystyrene which is waterproof and then the acrylic top coat is also waterproof so basically you have stopped the chance of water getting to the outside of the bricks. Most people don't have EWI so it's just easier to say as a general rule of thumb not to use it. Sand and cement is cheaper anyway than hardwall and better in that situation. But yes you are correct. If you can completely eliminate the possibility of water getting to the bricks then you could use a gypsum based back coat successfully. Just be sure to check that around the window frames and especially the widow cills have had silicone installed correctly because these are weak spots that water could potentially compromise the system. Anyway thanks for pointing that out Nige. Best of luck mate and thanks for the support 😉👍👍
@@Onthetrowel hope you didn’t think I was criticising.? Only reason I phoned BG was that my local building merchant had loads of hardwall out of date ( couple of weeks) and were giving it away free.! Only needed 3 bags…. Compared to limelite which is around £30 a bag.!!! Walls are completely dry but I get your point 😊
Do I need to prime the wall with SBR or a SBR/PVA/Cement before using hard wall over my 1930s crumbling brick and concrete walls once I remove the old loose plaster?
Would you use hardwall to level out a wall that is about 1m where about 30cm is brick and the rest is a finished wall in multi finish, I would be building out the multi finish by about 10mm
I've just done my 13x13ft living room(ceiling included) I ended up using around 9 bags of bonding to level it all and fill where plaster had blown before multifinsh. My kitchen is around same size although walls do seem straighter. Half the walls are artex, half dried hardwall (where ive knocked tiles off and it's pulled off the finish plaster) and some painted brickwork where I've cut out the blown plaster. Which one am I best off using to level and tidy up the wall ready for finish. Oh my ceiling is half artex half plasterboard (as I had to hack some out and reboard after a leak.) Finally keep up the great work, content is improving all the time and you deliver great info in a funny way. Also I'm so grateful for your support, thank you.
I guess I'll have thrown some excess away maybe a bags worth. But the walls were all over so needed some right work to make plumb. Considering Im learning I've done a great job of the finish. Agree I was surprised when I worked out how much gear id used. X
Fair play if you've done it you've done it. If your are learning this might help if you use bonding over pva like on the trowel Recomends. Get yourself a plaster rule it doesn't have to be fancy you can even use a piece of smoothidh wood that is straight. Go along your wall before you've done any mixing and using the straight edge mark where your dips and high spots are in pencil. I lf you check.your wall both ways you'll be able to get a really good picture in your head of where your going to apply and not apply. Then put on a little heavy and use your rule to scrape off. Speedskimz can flex a bit on bonding if your not good you need the one with metal edge.good luck And use cream of tartar or doubletime to hold your mix off so you got more flattening time
@@Onthetrowel awesome thanks, just didn't know if there was a better method for a kitchen. But yeah happy with bonding it, also got mesh to strengthen it up (which I used around the blown plaster when doing my room) once again keep up the good work, I really enjoy watching your videos. X
hi karl.....just want a bit of advice......ive got an issue with efflorescence on an outside wall at a property im renovating....its a solid wall with no cavity.....previous plaster has used gypsum based products which I know you don't use......plan is to hack all the plaster off back to the brick and treat the wall with a tanking slurry ( to stop the reoccurrence of efflorescence )before replastering the wall......im a plaster myself for 30yrs and was going to use limelight easybond slurry followed by the limelight renovating plaster then finish with high impact finishing plaster......can you recommend an alternative with the main aim to stop the efflorescence from reoccurring?.......many thanks regards john
Question, if bonding is harder to use, why not use hardwall and just seal the wall before use. So if you had to level a painted plaster wall, before skimming, why not seal it and level it with hardwall
I’ve got to get a price together for a living room. Solid 9 inch wall. They want the external walls insulated but the damp course is about a foot and a half up the wall 🤯. I’m leaning towards battening, celotexing between, vapour barrier and plasterboarding. What would you recommend? Obviously I would just use s and c if the didn’t want it insulated.
Strap with 2x1 or frame it with 2x2 if the wall is bad and Vapor barrier then sheet with insulated plasterboard. Or better yet, frame it out, Vapor barrier it and then sheet it with 50mm kingspan (not inbetween) and then put 12mm gyproc over the top. This will keep the cost down You could frame it out and use celotex in between but you will be more expensive for material and will have cold spots ie the studs
Can you use bonding or hardball to patch plaster walls back straight prior to skimming on an old terraced house built in the 1800s with 2 foot stone walls? Loving the content mate, recently subbed👍
Most of the young plasterers now haven’t even heard of Hardwall 😂. Lovely to use. It’s thirsty and stinks though. Where you based mate. You sound local to me.
Great vid mate 👍 If you got a wall that has large areas blown but not sure if the whole wall is blown until you start scrapping off. I can see back to the thermalite blocks in some area where it has blown. Would you just pva everything really well and use bonding ?
Great video mate I use bonding for everything tbh apart from floating up walls and also the 9 inch solid walls like you said in the video. Also bathrooms too tbh as the moisture is always much higher in a bathroom than anywhere else but so in that case I prefer sand and cement as it's the correct product to use and as far as floating walls go its cheaper and for me it's much easier to use and definitely easier to clean too 💯🎯 great video mate. Look forward to the next 👊🏻
@@Onthetrowel loved the latest vid on floating too mate, I watch this plasterer in usa called kirk giordano dunno if you heard of him? and obviously you two have the same first name so when the missus says you watching kirk again, I says yea I'm watching english kirk now 🤣🤣🤣
Great suggestion! And I will do yes. Try leaving it longer between trowels. If they are still causing problems then hit it with a sponge float when they appear. Hope that helps you mate
Another brilliant video mate👌 I've got to wet plaster a small room out which is back to brick. I'd like to use Hardwall but the customer has already used pva on the walls to keep the dust down 🙄 Can I still use Hardwall even though it's been sealed or do I have to struggle with bonding 😬 Cheers 🍻
Just depends how well he has done the pva. If you have still got suction then your fine. I'd say you would be OK to be honest but I haven't seen it. Just splash some water at the wall, if it goes dark where its wet straight away then it's still sucking so go for it
@On the trowel thanks for the reply 😉 Think they've done a couple of coats of pva. Bit new to wet plastering so how would I know if I've still got suction please and if there's no suction is it a no no for Hardwall 🤔Not finding Bonding easy to work with. Sorry mate but would really appreciate another reply😊 Cheers 🍻
Great content, but without meaning to sound old, I don’t think the background music does the video any favours. That said, I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. Cheers
This was gold, ive watched loads of your vids, dont know how ive just seen this now! Question - filling in deep cracks and holes would you suggest using drywall adhesive or bonding?
every body is bonding obsessed (on the forums)I don't know why maybe after watching your video it will change their mind, me personally very rarely use it
Done! I read your comment an made the video, it was part of a job I'm doing so I didn't need to rub it up but the basics are all there... enjoy th-cam.com/video/_IDgCew0YoI/w-d-xo.html
hi mate, wondering if you could help out, my bedroom has a few tiny damp spots the same in this vid, my render outside is solid , my internal walls was artex then plastered over , i was thinking it was a lack of air getting around but when its damp out the patches get darker, ps our house over 120 years old, tia
I'd imagine there is a few cracks in the render and water us getting in. If you need more help you can email me an we can exchange details an have a chat on the phone. Mrkirkjohnstone@gmail.com
Very helpful when you show the packaging and explain where and how to use the product. Thanks.
It's my pleasure 🙂👍
@@Onthetrowel
and, your 'bonus tip' solved a small damp patch problem that has taken me months to figure out. You're a star. Thanks again.
When I was serving my time we always used browning mixed in the tin bath, tipped on one end because of the hole in it and sand & cement when doing damps. Only really used bonding on boards or when using those daft arch kits, when they were all the rage. 👍
Here in Ireland i dont see hardwall. Gyproc skimcoat.we have bonding but as you said issues with it. Most plasters sand and cement inside new bungalows. And skim over. Or dot and dap first. Insulated slabs are the norme inside on outer walls on new buildings for engery efficiency. Good video.👌🇮🇪
Thank You Captain Kirk ❤ your videos mate 👍🇮🇪 so helpful
Great gig that Kirk great work and surroundings done the floods in the lakes a few years ago not as good but great views.
There's a lot of builders yards that don't actually stock Hardwall, Bonding is much easier to get hold of.
Hardwall is in the name...it was used in areas where it was needed where it needed to be hard ie flats industrial stairwells and a hospital I worked on years ago.. its alot harder once set
Does hardwall hold onto thermalite block? My thermalite block has been primed with blue grit but I’m wondering if dot and dab would have been better
Mate - amateur occasional plasterer here. Having a pig of a day with bonding and figured there must be an easier way. This vid is for ME. Thanks mate 🍻🍻
Kirk is Hard wall the modern equivalent of Browning?
When I left school I worked for a builder and when the two plasterers came in I had to do all the mixing by hand, no power mixers in those days! A wooden stick followed by a bike front cog welded on to a metal bar with a bent over handle. Keeping two qualified plasterers supplied with either Bonding or Browning, finish and clean water was a tough job at 16! 😂
Gotta reiterate it again.... you've got a great channel growing around your personality and clarity in front of the camera. Every video gets more professional 👏 Long may it continue.
Cheers Billy, my kids keep laughing outside my little office... "dad's talking to himself again" 🤣
Appreciate your nice words mate. Thank you 👍👍
💯 facts brother
Yellow grit is banging. We all use what's there. Not forgetting Someone called it... The magic mix you know what I mean.
Hand full in bonding in finish sometimes I’ve used !
Other than that bonding was for concrete’ and your spot on’ …!
You can’t mix bonding with hard wall’ there’s a chemical reaction’ if you run out of material!! 👍🏻
Loving the content mate, you put things in an easy to understand way that I'm sure will help a lot of less experienced spreads.
Great points about using on solid walls to. As a good rule of thumb we say avoid any product that is gypsum based on solid walls for the reasons you mentioned.
Sand and cement or limelite renovating plaster are our go to's in this situation. Unless over membrane in which case its back to hardwall.
Keep up the good work mate 👍
Much appreciated!
Thanks for the little tip. I'm looking at doing my outer walls on my old property that's for a double brick (header and stretcher skin) and was going to go with Hardwall, but now will look at Limelite. I don't fancy doing the sand and cement mixing thing, so will just buys bags of Limelite. Is it applied the same as Hardwall (2 coat)
this guy is 100% right. mix is dryish and fluffy and your onto a winner, it says its 11mm ply but would easily holds more
Kirk remember tilcon limelite that was nice to use on old brickwork to stop the salt etc coming through plaster but the skimming was a biatch to use like spreading rubber lol but old skool boys put hand full lime in mix can’t beat old skool lads 👍🏻
I mix bonding and hardwall together. I always PVA bare brick, even when using sand and cement.
Why PVA the bare brick?? To seal against water or another reason?? Looking for genuine advice 😂
Hey Kirk, your channel is amazing, learning a lot. This video definitely hits my situation right now. Got a garage to plaster and wanted to use Hardwall. Having second thoughts tho as the dry blocks are pretty old and not as dense as usual, very rough texture with pronounced "holes"/"air pockets". On top of that they have been (poorly) painted so should I just stay away from Hardwall? Strip the paint and use hardwall maybe? Or just not be lazy and dot and dab plasterboards? As the bricks seem to breath a lot (despite the paint and quite likely due to their VERY aerated design from the 70s), a bit worried about moisture overtime. Thank again for the great content!
You shouldve done this years ago. Your a natural. More great information and tips. Top man
Cheers Ry. Just trying to make little improvements. Not sure on the cheesy background music though?
@@Onthetrowel didn't really notice it mate. Just keep being yourself on the videos. Thats what makes it good i think. Entertaining and very useful tips
Great video pal loads of good information on their , i always prefer too float out whenever I can instead of dot and dab far superior and more job satisfaction at the end of it. Love hardwall but can't beat sand + cement 👌
I'm the same as you mate.
Cheers for your support
As far as I know, and I'm quite old. Well in north Wales, internal work was called floating, mostly it was sand and cement mixed at six to one.rubbed up and skimmed, then there was some jobs were for one reason or another carlite had to be used. Carlite browning was always used to float out , later on I used hardwall to do the same thing. Bonding wasn't for floating out a house or a hospital come to that, and if you're working on any older property, then avoid bonding it's totally unsuitable for any damp or perished brickwork.
Absolutely spot on Shaun. Nice to have some of the old school on board. If you've got any advice for the next generation of spreads then let me know and I'll put it in a video mate 👍👍
Hard to beat sand and cement especially in bathroom I scratch coat all walls first with sand and cement then dab them great channel
Hi Shaun. I’ve got internal outer walls to take back to block work due to severe damp. They’re solid 9” walls. Would you recommend sand and cement with an additive or use a specialised damp render. Thanks in advance of your reply. Cheers Craig.
@@bambibigboy hi, maybe use limelite which is designed for the damp but expensive or a scratch coat and top coat in sand cement with a waterproof additive. Or look at some damp proofing systems that are manufactured for problem jobs. Dryzone are good.
Absolutely bang on fella , especially the damp section... See to many people use gypsum plaster downstairs in old Houses! Its defo a no no... And you are right to avoid dry coat, ive has several issues with limelight which is the same sort of gear!! Keep the content coming buddy 👍
Cheers Si an yes, see it loads myself mate
Cheers si, an yes mate I see it all the time myself
What should you use downstairs- sand and cement?
@@TeeTee-zm2re yes, thats what my house was build with and thats whats I replaced the old stuff with.
Really helpful this towards end about the no cavities 9inch wall great advice was thinking you could just dot and dab onto maybe use insulated plaster board instead that still a option could would consider?
If you wanted to be 100% safe then just give it a good coat of sand and cement with waterproofer or give it a coat of British gypsum's dricoat first an then do whatever you want on the top
More great information. This certainly helped.
Cheers Paul
Hi Kirk . Very interesting...
Could you do a video on - DriCoat ..( tips & your Knowledge + experience using it Best ..!
Thanks 👍
Thanks so much OTT you've answered all my questions in that video & thanks also for the Data sheet & the 9 inch wall tip too please keep up the good work 😀 👍
It's a pleasure Chris, thanks for the support mate
How about the HardWall on party wall in semi detached house? There it should be fine I guess as there won't be moisture next door right?
If you have to float on a low suction background and you would rather use hardwall just simply scratch coat with bonding first then when set float over with Hardwall......simples.
Top tip Ian
Spot on mate
Great video, thank you. Can you use it on solid walls if they are internal?
No mate I wouldn't
Great info 👍. I’ve got an old sandstone wall to patch. Which would be best to use?
You can use hardwall on a solid wall as long as that wall is dry or you have externally insulated and rendered.! I phoned BG technical and was told it wasent a problem 😊
When you have external wall insulation installed you have covered your house in a layer of polystyrene which is waterproof and then the acrylic top coat is also waterproof so basically you have stopped the chance of water getting to the outside of the bricks.
Most people don't have EWI so it's just easier to say as a general rule of thumb not to use it.
Sand and cement is cheaper anyway than hardwall and better in that situation.
But yes you are correct. If you can completely eliminate the possibility of water getting to the bricks then you could use a gypsum based back coat successfully.
Just be sure to check that around the window frames and especially the widow cills have had silicone installed correctly because these are weak spots that water could potentially compromise the system.
Anyway thanks for pointing that out Nige. Best of luck mate and thanks for the support 😉👍👍
@@Onthetrowel hope you didn’t think I was criticising.? Only reason I phoned BG was that my local building merchant had loads of hardwall out of date ( couple of weeks) and were giving it away free.! Only needed 3 bags…. Compared to limelite which is around £30 a bag.!!! Walls are completely dry but I get your point 😊
Do I need to prime the wall with SBR or a SBR/PVA/Cement before using hard wall over my 1930s crumbling brick and concrete walls once I remove the old loose plaster?
Brilliant. Thanks, mate.
Thanks a lot for advice!!!
Would you use hardwall to level out a wall that is about 1m where about 30cm is brick and the rest is a finished wall in multi finish, I would be building out the multi finish by about 10mm
I only use these products for patching really, I will float with sand cement lime ,on big areas.
Same as you mate
I've just done my 13x13ft living room(ceiling included) I ended up using around 9 bags of bonding to level it all and fill where plaster had blown before multifinsh. My kitchen is around same size although walls do seem straighter. Half the walls are artex, half dried hardwall (where ive knocked tiles off and it's pulled off the finish plaster) and some painted brickwork where I've cut out the blown plaster. Which one am I best off using to level and tidy up the wall ready for finish. Oh my ceiling is half artex half plasterboard (as I had to hack some out and reboard after a leak.) Finally keep up the great work, content is improving all the time and you deliver great info in a funny way. Also I'm so grateful for your support, thank you.
Where have you hidden 9 bags of bonding in one room mate..hope it turned out nice and straight for you
I guess I'll have thrown some excess away maybe a bags worth. But the walls were all over so needed some right work to make plumb. Considering Im learning I've done a great job of the finish. Agree I was surprised when I worked out how much gear id used. X
If you're going over old walls and straightening them out then pva and bonding are what you need hun
Fair play if you've done it you've done it.
If your are learning this might help if you use bonding over pva like on the trowel Recomends. Get yourself a plaster rule it doesn't have to be fancy you can even use a piece of smoothidh wood that is straight. Go along your wall before you've done any mixing and using the straight edge mark where your dips and high spots are in pencil. I lf you check.your wall both ways you'll be able to get a really good picture in your head of where your going to apply and not apply. Then put on a little heavy and use your rule to scrape off. Speedskimz can flex a bit on bonding if your not good you need the one with metal edge.good luck
And use cream of tartar or doubletime to hold your mix off so you got more flattening time
@@Onthetrowel awesome thanks, just didn't know if there was a better method for a kitchen. But yeah happy with bonding it, also got mesh to strengthen it up (which I used around the blown plaster when doing my room) once again keep up the good work, I really enjoy watching your videos. X
hi karl.....just want a bit of advice......ive got an issue with efflorescence on an outside wall at a property im renovating....its a solid wall with no cavity.....previous plaster has used gypsum based products which I know you don't use......plan is to hack all the plaster off back to the brick and treat the wall with a tanking slurry ( to stop the reoccurrence of efflorescence )before replastering the wall......im a plaster myself for 30yrs and was going to use limelight easybond slurry followed by the limelight renovating plaster then finish with high impact finishing plaster......can you recommend an alternative with the main aim to stop the efflorescence from reoccurring?.......many thanks
regards
john
Question, if bonding is harder to use, why not use hardwall and just seal the wall before use. So if you had to level a painted plaster wall, before skimming, why not seal it and level it with hardwall
Thanks mate much appreciated 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
No problem mate
@@Onthetrowel I’ll be buying you a drink soon just got to set up my details on my phone mate 👍🏾
No problem mate, your nice comment is enough for me 🙏👍
I’ve got to get a price together for a living room. Solid 9 inch wall. They want the external walls insulated but the damp course is about a foot and a half up the wall 🤯. I’m leaning towards battening, celotexing between, vapour barrier and plasterboarding. What would you recommend? Obviously I would just use s and c if the didn’t want it insulated.
Strap with 2x1 or frame it with 2x2 if the wall is bad and Vapor barrier then sheet with insulated plasterboard. Or better yet, frame it out, Vapor barrier it and then sheet it with 50mm kingspan (not inbetween) and then put 12mm gyproc over the top. This will keep the cost down
You could frame it out and use celotex in between but you will be more expensive for material and will have cold spots ie the studs
Can you use bonding or hardball to patch plaster walls back straight prior to skimming on an old terraced house built in the 1800s with 2 foot stone walls? Loving the content mate, recently subbed👍
Can you use weber ocr on the inside of an external 9inch brick wall? It had lime render originally.
Most of the young plasterers now haven’t even heard of Hardwall 😂. Lovely to use. It’s thirsty and stinks though. Where you based mate. You sound local to me.
I'm in a lovely little place called ellesmere port
@@Onthetrowel Oh sound. I’m from heswall mate. Working in little Sutton next week. You just a one man band?
Great vid mate 👍
If you got a wall that has large areas blown but not sure if the whole wall is blown until you start scrapping off. I can see back to the thermalite blocks in some area where it has blown.
Would you just pva everything really well and use bonding ?
You say hardwall and bonding platers draw moisture through a 9inch wall. I assume this is external walls only, not the party wall?
Correct mate
Great vid again u make perfect sense even to a dimwit like me cheers Kirk
Fantastic content and info mate! Really enjoying ur videos!
Cheers Dig, glad your enjoying them mate
Great video mate I use bonding for everything tbh apart from floating up walls and also the 9 inch solid walls like you said in the video. Also bathrooms too tbh as the moisture is always much higher in a bathroom than anywhere else but so in that case I prefer sand and cement as it's the correct product to use and as far as floating walls go its cheaper and for me it's much easier to use and definitely easier to clean too 💯🎯 great video mate. Look forward to the next 👊🏻
I'm the same as you mate, spot on Danny 👍
@@Onthetrowel loved the latest vid on floating too mate, I watch this plasterer in usa called kirk giordano dunno if you heard of him? and obviously you two have the same first name so when the missus says you watching kirk again, I says yea I'm watching english kirk now 🤣🤣🤣
When you say you will use sand and cement instead of bonding , can s&c be applied over existing plaster or only if its back to masonry?
Can we not use multifinish on painted walls?
Great content!
Thanks Jamie. Get subscribed mate. And thanks for commenting
external wall (interior) hardwall or s&c
S&c with waterproofer if there's no cavity. If there is a cavity and no damp issues then it's up to you... either
Does hardwall hold onto thermalite block? My thermalite block has been primed with blue grit but I’m wondering if dot and dab would have been better
What about half painted blocks just over 100cm painted boarder amd over 100cm above that dry blocks 😂
Siraphite.....keenes cement...what do they use now...??
Could you do a video on using sand cement please ✌️😎
I was just about to ask whatever happened to browning and tough coat
Can you do a piece on tiger stripes. As a beginner I always get them . Even on professional plasters work I see them. Cheers
Great suggestion! And I will do yes.
Try leaving it longer between trowels.
If they are still causing problems then hit it with a sponge float when they appear. Hope that helps you mate
Another brilliant video mate👌 I've got to wet plaster a small room out which is back to brick. I'd like to use Hardwall but the customer has already used pva on the walls to keep the dust down 🙄 Can I still use Hardwall even though it's been sealed or do I have to struggle with bonding 😬 Cheers 🍻
Just depends how well he has done the pva. If you have still got suction then your fine. I'd say you would be OK to be honest but I haven't seen it.
Just splash some water at the wall, if it goes dark where its wet straight away then it's still sucking so go for it
@On the trowel thanks for the reply 😉 Think they've done a couple of coats of pva. Bit new to wet plastering so how would I know if I've still got suction please and if there's no suction is it a no no for Hardwall 🤔Not finding Bonding easy to work with. Sorry mate but would really appreciate another reply😊 Cheers 🍻
Apparently they've just done the one coat over pva and not two. If there's no suction is it a no for Hardwall please ? 🤞
Really helpful content. Thanks mate.
Top northern pronunciation of the word “bastard” 😅 💪🏽😅
What would you use over an existing bonded wall to smooth it off before plastering. I’m a beginner
can you stick thermal board to a solid wall using just acrilic adhesive and insta stik adhesive ?
I would say yes but you can always phone technical support. There's always contact details on the back of the tube.
Great content, but without meaning to sound old, I don’t think the background music does the video any favours. That said, I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge. Cheers
Ive got quite a few chases to fill most are through the plaster so now its exposed brick. Would i be better off with hardwall then. Thabks jn advance
The lightness don't like the darkness
Can you put a layer of hardwall over an existing layer bonding ?
Yes
@@Onthetrowel Thank you.
Great video
If you have a gap of maybe a few days between base coat and top coats, would you recommend pva/sbr again?
This was gold, ive watched loads of your vids, dont know how ive just seen this now! Question - filling in deep cracks and holes would you suggest using drywall adhesive or bonding?
Drywall mate, doesn't shrink and crack like bonding
What has happened to Browning? I used it 30 years ago before leaving the game to join the forces. Can you still source it?
Why would you use bonding on plasterboard when you have multifinish?
If you had to cove a ceiling or something like that mate
Love it mate even made the Mrs watch you haha
Haha, dont torture the poor lady.
Cheers for the support mate. Appreciate it
@@Onthetrowel no worries mate you have a great entertaining and informative channel hence I gave a shout out on trowel talk
every body is bonding obsessed (on the forums)I don't know why maybe after watching your video it will change their mind, me personally very rarely use it
It's crazy isn't it mate.
Cheers for the comment Terry
Great video again mate👍 would the amount of water you mix with be the same as multifinish for all of these or would. It differ
Slightly different mate but it tells you on the back of the bag how much to use.... make sure you got a big bucket mate
@@Onthetrowel Thanks Kirk 👍
Nice little man cave youve got there
What’s the best for silicone rendering?
Its different materials outside mate. What are you rendering over? Are you installing EWI?
Just been using sand & cement outside for years and never touched silicone render, but interested in giving it ago.
Back in the day hradwall replaced sand and cement bonding for filling shit walls
Your next video how to float a wall with sand and cement 🤣👍💪
Came to post the same comment 🤣. 🤞. Be good to see ratios and additives too
I was also going to ask this (assuming that's going to be the best option for my kitchen) x
I'd love to see this too 💯🎯
Would love too see this video 👌
Done! I read your comment an made the video, it was part of a job I'm doing so I didn't need to rub it up but the basics are all there... enjoy th-cam.com/video/_IDgCew0YoI/w-d-xo.html
Top video
Never us bonding on an end wall or chimney breast.
Showing me age now does anyone remember sirepite b finish plaster for sand/cement ????
I heard my dad talking about that stuff
Yep. Started plastering in 1980 using that. Back in the days when bags were twice the size they are today 😂
top video. been saying this work a long time to the youngsters :-0. ps sort that chair out, the flipping cracking noise it makes when you move. ;-)
🤣🤣🤣 it's because I ate an drank to much over Christmas
Thanks mate 🤜🤛
hi mate, wondering if you could help out, my bedroom has a few tiny damp spots the same in this vid, my render outside is solid , my internal walls was artex then plastered over , i was thinking it was a lack of air getting around but when its damp out the patches get darker, ps our house over 120 years old, tia
I'd imagine there is a few cracks in the render and water us getting in.
If you need more help you can email me an we can exchange details an have a chat on the phone.
Mrkirkjohnstone@gmail.com