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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
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There's a lot of debate out there as to what the "best" or "proper" sharpening system is. I'm here to show you that it's all poppycock. Balderdash, even. You can sharpen on a water stone, diamond stone, oil stone, sandpaper, on a rock, on a block, on a box, with a fox, in a house, with a mouse...
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Items I use in this video (some are affiliate links which help sponsor this content):
Slow Speed Grinder: amzn.to/47fposr
Ohishi Waterstones: amzn.to/3TkoZhP
1,000/8,000 Combo (great budget option): amzn.to/3Lqj7Sh
Angle Setting Jig Plans: www.lie-nielse...
Inexpensive Honing Guide: amzn.to/3Jo2Uub
Lie-Nieslen Honing Guide: www.lie-nielse... guide
Sandpaper for Flattening: amzn.to/3Jor73F
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Items I keep on hand in the shop:
Glue:
Titebond I Wood Glue: amzn.to/3zRXHGv
Titebond III Wood Glue: amzn.to/3MVnG6j
Titebond Quick and Thick: amzn.to/42HGuMC
Power Tools and Accessories:
Table Saw Blade - Woodworkers II: amzn.to/42bIOLa
My favorite trim router: amzn.to/3LbCbTF
DeWalt Trim Router fence: amzn.to/43cYwr2
My Festool Router Setup: amzn.to/3ZPIQal
Extra Fence: amzn.to/3KHi9jI
1/2" dia Router bit: amzn.to/3UkRFYI
A Better Alternative (Spiral Up Cut): amzn.to/3mcPsSp
Sharpening:
Ohishi Waterstones: amzn.to/3TkoZhP
1,000/8,000 Combo (great budget option): amzn.to/3Lqj7Sh
Angle Setting Jig Plans: www.lie-nielse...
Inexpensive Honing Guide: amzn.to/3Jo2Uub
Lie-Nieslen Honing Guide: www.lie-nielse... guide
Sandpaper for Flattening: amzn.to/3Jor73F
My Finish Mix:
Minwax Polyurethane: amzn.to/3kPgpuO
Liberon Finishing Oil: amzn.to/3kXkIEf
Danish Oil (alternative): amzn.to/3Njlabs
Liberon Beeswax: amzn.to/3Jm2yFN
Turpentine: amzn.to/3SWFznB
Mineral Spirits (alternative): amzn.to/3oKU83h
TotalBoat Epoxy:
For 5% off any TotalBoat product, visit www.totalboat....
You can stay up to date with my work here:
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I'm a metallurgist in a heat treating facility. Most blades are hardened from 55 to 62 Rockwell C. That hardness depends on the metal used in the blade. My Amazon $3.50 chisel (simple low carbon steel) is about 56 RC. If you go up to the high end of PM-11V chisel ($95.50) you can get 63 RC. The harder the steel alloy, the longer between sharpening, however, harder also means it is more difficult/ time consuming to sharpen.
Now, my opinion, for what it's worth, is to buy what you can afford and sharpen it the way that fits your personal situation. Above all else, enjoy! For many of us this is a hobby. Who wants a hobby that is not enjoyable?
Thank you for your videos. They make my Saturday.
I was a qa manager in a heat treating facility for over 14 years. I get so excited when someone starts talking about metallurgical stuff.
I promised myself I wouldn't watch another sharpening video. Glad I did. You kicked the s*** out of this dead horse. Well done sir keep them coming
You must read minds! I was just telling The Boss this morning how I need to get better at sharpening after watching the precision with which you shaved the repair on the dovetail joint, and lo and behold, 12 hours later you’ve delivered! Thank you, my man - you are my favourite channel on TH-cam by a country mile!
I now free hand I don’t bother with a secondary bevel anymore ,mostly I just strop regularly occasionally I use 1000 grit diamond and strop.Takes hardly any time at all and I’m happy
Thank you for this clear, honest video. "Just go sharpen it!" For all for of the time spent researching and planning and ...., just go sharpen with what you have in front of you. And, with easy access to inexpensive very fine grit sandpaper, even the cheapest version can get you going for a long time. Sharpening stones are "multi-generational" purchases (you will NEVER wear one out, and if you do, then you DESERVE to buy another one!). Get some sandpaper, sharpen something, build something. If you are having fun, then maybe you've got all you need. There are SO many other things to try. Make it a lifetime of learning.
Stick on Wood, you've done it again. Decades ago i bought a Tormek Supergrind 2000 and Japanese 3000 grit water stone. Even my hand axes had hollow ground, hair "popping" edges, but i couldn't resurface it to 90 degrees for Chisels. You've sold me on a diamond wheel for that long retired Tormek. Thanks!
Thanks for another great video! I love the fact that you present the material and then encourage the viewer to determine what works best for them. You don't try to force people to do it your way saying this is the only way to do it. Thank you for not being like so many other creators out there!
The hollow grind always made sense to me because of the thinner front edge, and the curve helping the chip action, but not having to polish the entire blade area is an even better reason.
But it provides less support; the edge is more delicate -prone to damage by hard wood.
I'm at the other end of this. The hollow grind is faster to obtain, and easier to maintain (as long as you have a grinder). However, that leading edge is supported by less steel than in the other options, making it easier to get chips in the blade from hitting knots, reversing grain, or even especially tight grain. Chips require more material removal to repair. YMMV, but I prefer treating planes and chisels the same way as I treat axes, the fine edge does the cutting, but the heavy back supports it.
Thanks, I’ve found your videos on sharpening the most clear and understandable of any on line. Oh, and by the way, those of us who are older, 30 something is not old for people or tools.
Great information! I would be very interested in seeing your method of sharpening a scrub plane blade or a gouge. Thanks!
Another great video I think it was the most clear and easiest sharpening video that I’ve seen and made it easy to understand. Thanks for sharing
I have to tell you that I’ve found that sharpening/honing the irons is a little bit like therapy. Especially if all I’ve made was firewood that day. Thank you for another educational video!
I’m just figuring out how to sharpen chisels, but I’ve sharpened kitchen knives for years and it can definitely be zen-like 🤙🏽🤙🏽
You've answered a question I have had for a while about a used plane I bought. The blade in it has a convex grind on the blade. It has stayed sharp till recently, and I was puzzling over how to sharpen it - now I know. I typically hollow grind and finish up on various grits of wet-dry sandpaper glued to some old Pergo scraps I had lying around. I thought I was looking forward to a lot of grinding lol.
I bought my 1st hand plane off Amazon. It is a piece of crap. I sharpened the blade so it was the sharpest thing in my shop but, I could not get that plane to work even decently. I watched a bunch of YT videos to figure out what I was doing wrong. I got sick and tired of it so I bought a Lie Nielsen. It has been wonderful to use. Yes, it was expensive, but I now spend more time in the shop and less time beating my head against the wall trying to figure out how to get it to work. Stay awesome.
It just makes the work so much more pleasurable!
wow hand removal of burr is savage, I use my pant leg like a refined gentleman
I've come to use a slow speed water cooled grinder for reforming the base angle. It's just quicker than by hand. I will only use the guide for my bevel up irons now because I have noticed a more precise edge on those tends to work a bit better. Bevel down stuff I have worked up the courage to free hand more but I finish on my grinders strop wheel.
The color change is actually oxidation for a given material temp.
One last thing: Few things in life have only one right way. Everything else may have one correct finished product but many roads to them.
Best thing done in my shop was setting up a dedicated area on my back bench for sharpening station. No more hesitation or excuse for not frequently freshening the tool’s edge.
40 years or so ago I was taught hand shapening and until arthritus kicked in last year I was still sharpening that way
I have since got myself a Tormek T8, a little slower than I am used too but I am a little slower too now
I do enjoy drinking a coffee while the tormek quips away
Sharpening ANY blade is kind of serene for many of us wheather we are watching someone else do it or we are ourselves doing it, these vids will never not be popular to make, we edge lovers eat them up like "crom will laugh at us and cast us out of valhala" if we dont know the secret of the edge lol. Keep em coming bud
thanks for sharing. there's this weird mysticism built around freehand sharpening but as you imply even novice will probably get a workable edge on first try, especially on a bevel down plane iron, provided they have an extremely basic understanding of what they are trying to do
As a woodworking hobbyist, I’ve watched way too many videos on sharpening, have a few nice chisels and only one plane. Thanks! I’m now just going to get them sharp and not worry that I’m using the correct system, just that the result gets me back to work.
Good job, I appreciate the instruction. You have cleared up much confusion.
Moral of this story….just freakin’ sharpen already and get to work!!
“Making tools dull is more fun than making them sharp”
Thanks for the video, I've been looking into sharpening as I get going and its still a bit of a mystery... also watched the CFC - Free Library vids on chisel and plane iron sharpening. I think I'm at the point of getting some stones and diving in!
In yoir experience do you find that all three methods are equal in holding an edge?
I’ve watched many sharpening videos and never came across the convex sharpening…..always something new to learn. Thanks Eric and BTW nice boat build.
I always thought that convex is the result of sloppy technique -to be avoided.
But a flat grind with a secondary bevel is naturally convex.
And a convex grind provides more support at the edge.
Thanks, informative, entertaining and a little bit provocative at times just what I like !
You get a sharper finish edge if you don't grind it when pushing forward. Pull into yourself grinding, lift off the stone and reset.
Thanks for simplifying this process
Another great video from Buffy! Thanks man.
Sweet and amusing. Thanks
I'm too cheap to buy a wheel. But I do use a cheap "Eclipse" knock-off guide. I'm still learning. But what I've found that works for me is shape the primary angle on the guide, usually using sandpaper (220g), then I switch to my $20 Amazon 400/1000 diamond plate. I would like to find like a 2k diamon plate and call it good, because after the main shaping I now switch to stropping on leather with 10k-20k pastes. And I do that free hand. This creates a slightly convex curve, the face ends up super polished and I found the edge lasts longer, and even then it's usually an easy touch-up on the strop rather than going back to the honing guide and lower grits.
I have a Shapton 16k water stone that I've only used a handful of times. Water mess and having to flatten has been a big turn off. I wish I'd sunk that $120 into a better guide, or more diamond plates. :-(
Good trick to prevent your blade getting too hot is keep your finger tips close (not too close) and when your fingers feel it, time for the water😊
Since you use a honing guide. When you hollow grind or flat grind. Do you grind all the way to the cutting edge? or Do you grind a smidge away from the cutting edge (assuming no damage to the cutting edge), so that any decrease in length of the blade is the result of honing rather then being overly aggressive at the grinding wheel. Since the grinding process, when used with honing guide is just to remove material to make the honing process faster
I agree completely. What you say comports with my experience. Another excellent video!
Have you seen Mr. Sellers most recent blog? Titled it’s the subtle things? Take a look at the third pic from the bottom 😉. Love your videos, look forward to them every Saturday.
This is a real informative video. What kind of ruler is generally used for the back bevel? I think I wanna hop on that train because I'm tired of polishing the back each time. Also I can concur. Over 45 degrees on the bevel is no fun and no buenos.
Love it . Much respect for grinding the old school way freehand and your finger as the guide . We’re a dying breed . No fancy jigs
thank you
What grit water stone is the black stone in the video?
Another great video. Thank you and as always enjoy the coffee.
BLUEY !!!!!! thumbs up for that little bum-shuffler! 👍
Thanks man…. Informative and “the feels” all in one
I have that same free Delta grinding wheel. Haha. Great video
Another great video dude, thank you, I actually enjoy sharpening my tools but never seem to have enough time! So generally go with the quickest honing guide method, take care out there see you on the next one
Do you think you really need a hollow grind if you are using sharpening jig?
Thank you! Great details and visuals! I learned a lot
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I’m the kinda person who figures that if I’m gonna sharpen one and get my hands all black with carbon. Then I’m gonna do a few touch ups. And the hollow grind is definitely king. Cause yeah I’d rather be cutting. Have a good one.
I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed, but now I feel I can be 😁
That coffee cup is just awesome.
Awesomeness... blew the rest of the complicated doomsayer sharpening videos out of the water. Thankyou.
What are your thoughts on strop?
Well, several comments. I have 6 wood lathes, and that means I prefer to sharpen on slow speed grinders, and I use CBN wheels which are designed for 'hardened steel' which would include chisels and plane irons. Yes, they are expensive, $160 or so up to $200 or so. Being a production turner, I can reasonably expect 5 or more years out of one wheel. Spendy? Well yes. However, they come spin and bubble balanced. You do need a set of 'helical' washers, well most of the time. The nuts that come standard on grinders are not 'precision' machined, and the helical washers, one concave and the other convex, will make for a square mount. They also don't generate the heat that a standard friable wheel will. Most of the time I have a hollow grind from my 8 inch CBN wheels. I do have a platform with repeatable angles, and I can set it up in seconds to just shy of 25 degrees. This sets the primary bevel. I then go to a jig for the 25 degree bevel, and the jig as well for the secondary bevel.
Your grinder, with a standard friable wheel, I would never use, mostly because there is no wheel guard. I would not even turn it on. Those wheels do blow up. Not often, but still, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure":. The guard also helps confine the metal powder which can float in the air like wood dust, and the more fancy metals are not good stuff for us to get in our lungs. Another thing, I NEVER stand in the line of fire, EVER! I don't think I have seen a convex grind on a plane iron. I do have one skew chisel for my lathes with a convex grind. It is difficult to cut a straight line, but excellent for slight coves or arches.
With the hand abrasives/sand paper, I went to an 'Industrial Finishes' store that caters to car people. The finest grit they had was 2000. While that can work for a hand plane, I think most of us prefer a higher final grit. Not positive, but Scary Sharp may have higher grits. The bad thing about sand paper is that it has a very short life span.
I won't put my hands anywhere hear a freshly sharpened blade, and use strops. Just saver. There are many stropping compounds. The jeweler's rouge is in the 30,000 grit range, and there is a green stick that is 60,000. Do we need to polish that high? Not positive, but I like it. I find that I do have burrs up to 8000 grit. Some times there is a little burr off of the 16,000 grit stone I use. I can't really feel one on the 30,000 grit stone. Stropping gets rid of it simply.
What did the little fax machine looking thing at 16:26 have to do with bleeding all over the shop?
I use the WS300.... simple and fast, but yea the only thing that matter is the shiny bevel, not matter the angle (in a reasonable way)
Enlightening as usual.
Love your videos, I learn so much from them. Keep up the awesome work man!
Why use a convex grind? I have never heard of that. What's the reason for it?
I have that same grinder, but mine has wheel guards.
Got it 30 years ago; paid $60.
What kind of wheels do you use? They appear white; not the originals that come with the machine. I read somewhere that the wheels that typically come with these kinds of grinders are not good for sharpening.
My 30 plus year old Delta grinder is getting ready to sh%@ the bed. It needs help getting spinning. But I’m not giving it up. Thanks for the great video.
I admit I use the guides sometimes
Thank you. I don't know why, but I understand your videos better than most. Thanks for using the Mug and give Huck a hug for me. (Had to put down my Newfoundland ). For the viewer that asked "who is Keith" all I can say is "Total Boat Baby" Thanks again!
Very good and informative presentation. I have a grinder similar to yours but it just sits there laughing at me while I hand sharpen away. Can you share the types of wheels you have on the grinder? Always enjoy your videos.
I really like your point of view there are many ways to do the same thing and they all are correct if at the end you get the same result.
How are you grinding that free hand when hollow grinding on the delta? That's never worked for me
Great video! Have you ever done a video on how to buy used hand planes? I looked but I couldn't find anything.
This is a wonderful video, thanks! I really appreciate your taking the time to demonstrate all these methods and their results. I was checking out your repository of videos to see whether you've covered types of planes and your recommendations for amateurs looking to beef up their arsenal of hand tools (yes, that would be me). Anyhow, I did find a couple of great videos on old and new planes, but nothing specifically about plane types and their use(s). So, if you're looking for topic suggestions, that's mine, cheers!
The sound at 16:40 is what it is all about. As usually, you skin a cat well my man!
So so good...thanks.
100% work to you have have budget, skill's or time. Know what you have more of and work from that.. Great video (as always)
wouldn't it be wonderful if we could have bi-metal blades in the USA. A thin tool steel with a thick, soft steel. Sharpening would be finer.
i don't use a secondary bev- i lack patience - however i can get 1 thou shavings
i enjoy ur vids -- thanks
Wow shiny
Sharp means something. Learning what it technically means will help you understand how to achieve it. It's not a magical process. Anyway you get that perfectly sharp edge is going to produce the same result. The value is in hearing how masters do it because it may be easier to achieve their way. Understanding, and not just blindly following, is super useful.
What Grit Norton Wheel do you have on that grinder (the other wheel is a paper wheel for fine finishing.
Do you store your water stones in that tub of water? Because on the Lie-Neilsen website it says not to soak them in water.
Calling woodworkers practical engineers is about right. I'm very nerdy anyway, but I found it came to a head when looking up cantilever equations for designing a "C" table.
Thanks for reminding me about the joy of hand planing, and have you heard of the Japanese finish that comes straight off the plane? It’s like burnished shiny and actually seals the grain? I don’t usually sand after I plane and wondering if you do
I agree; a surface that is planed with a sharp edge needs no sanding; sanding would ruin that effect. (You can include card scrapers, as well.)
I very rarely sand wood. I use sandpaper mostly for sharpening.
@@davidkantor7978 yes seeing Eric enjoying his plane brought me back to some Japanese planes I used years ago and now I’m a little more skilled they are a pleasure to work with, they sharpen up beautifully
Hey I think I recognize you... I think I was your studio neighbor at nextfab!
the background music is fire. any tips where to find great bluesy songs like these for my own videos?
BTW, if you are sporadic in your shop time a honing guide is more valuable. I think even muscle memory needs regular sharpening. The less often you sharpen, the more you need a guide.
Unless like me you are just naturally unmemorable then use the guide no matter what. 😄
Also, when just starting out (mostly furniture making) what planes would you recommend for assistance with projects? What ones do you use most often? #4 I believe you’ve referenced in at least a couple videos as a go-to.
I watched, I sharpened*, I made a thing. Cheers!
*the first sharpening video
Thanks for the video Eric, taking the BS out of sharpening.👍👍
He seems unaware of how nice that grinder is.
When Jim spends too much time at Dwight's...
Yeah that last one was sick! Is it fair to say it even seemed like the best (method)? I was trying to figure out tho, from watching you, when sharpening, should I put equal pressure both directions -- on going back and forth? Cheers, great video like always:)
No stropping? Is that really necessary?
He strops on his hand.
Hi erik
haha first time i've ever seen anyone use their own "hide" to strop their blade
You didn't have one comment, not a one. It must be the beard. I need to grow a beard for my channel. Not one comment about cat abuse in this video even though you endorsed skinning one a multitude of times. I woulda gotten eviscerated. Must grow beard....
I prefer a shop-made strop because I'm so clumsy.
This is no internet sharpening video as no arms or legs were shaved to show sharpness.
You never said what you believe to be the advantage to a convex edge. You kept saying functionality but you never said what the function of a convex edge was.
Are you more of a Sarah Michelle Gellar or Kristy Swanson?
Do you sharpen chisels the same way?
I am not coordinated enough for the hand trick. Stop please
Hollow grind BS. You sharpened on a flat grinding stone so there is no hollow as you described. You could have went faster on a diamond plate and then on a leather strop and got a much better outcome in far few minutes. Just making it less complicated
You know brother I think uh, I think you need to stop using the Eiffel Tower reference as a symbol for highly perfected engineering and construction. I've been, I've seen. Let's just say that heavy coats of industrial paint, festive lighting, decorations and the distance photos of the tower are always taken at hide a multitude of sins. I'm quite certain the construction had nothing to do with exactitude or precision. I'm fairly certain that a level or plumb line was nowhere in evidence during construction. While impressive and a ballsy level of salesmanship to sell that project while Germans were hovering, I'm not certain there's a square or level surface anywhere on the tower.