Control arm repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Many Mopar lower control arms have a lot of slop between the torsion bar pivot and the body of the control arm. This doesn't seem to cause a major problem, but there's no reason not to fix it. The fix is actually quite simple if you have a grinder/cut-off tool and a welder. Some arms were actually more spot welded so they have to be drilled out. If I come upon another set of those I will update the video or add a new one.
Thanks Jim! I'm heading out to the shop to do that right now. You made it look easier than I thought.
Thanks Jim! I have been dealing with front end problems on my '72 Satellite/Road Runner Pro street Restomod and I have learned more by watching an hour or so of your videos than in 20 years of reading in magazine articles or trying to talk to "old timers" that know these tricks. i need to fix both lower control arms and reinforce my K-member and maybe i can finally enjoy driving my car and having it go straight down the road! Heck I might even get it on the dragstrip someday!
Thanks, great vid, I found myself shielding my eyes when you started welding lol
I appreciate your bushing removal & install vids too
Thanks for the videos Jim!
This is a great primer before I jump into mine.
Just got the last of my parts in, just got to beat this flu and I'm ready to roll.
Thanks again.
Great video Jim. I was planning in installing the stiffening plates. Something I never thought of was the slop in the torsion bar pivot. Gonna check them close and do that if needed. Tracy "Fishy68"
Getting ready to replace the whole front end on a 1968 300,and I was wondering how to properly release the tension on the torsion bars.
And thanks for the vid , I'm just a little bit smarter now.
There is a large bolt in the middle of the control arm. With the car supported on stands under the frame loosen the bolt on each side until it rocks freely.
Thanks for posting. I can see the excess movement in the control arm but am curious to know how this would manifest itself in handling of the vehicle. Thanks again.
We're really not sure if the play affects anything in normal operation, but we know it shouldn't be there. I pulled my GTS apart a couple of years ago. The car has around 160,000 miles on it and the front end has been rebuilt once (1986). There is very little play in those arms, so the factory got some of them right, but quality control was not really job one at any of the car companies back then.
Well Jim, You never thought to put it back in the vise when you welded up the stiffening plate to take the rest of the "slop" out of it?
You can also make a plate for the round end also I have also done that .fact is that part adjusts the torsion bar and does not mvw going down the road.
Thanks for sharing Jim
i think im blind from all those fireworks hahah
I appreciate the clamp from the middle idea but man, put your ground clamp on the material to be welded lol
You gotta get gas set up on that MIG
I got the plates from the maker, but they are available from Mancini (I think) for around $25/pair.
Can you make the draw of the board dimensions available? Thank you
Your a good teacher jim
Cool video thank you jim. Sure are a lot of know it all types in the comments. Well if they're watching they must not have known.
Thanks Jim. Can they be too tight? I have a set I bought that have had a stiffener plate added around the outside radius. The torsion bar pivots are stiff and just able to be rotated by hand. Do you think this would be a problem?
If you can rotate by hand you are fine. Yes, they can be too stiff, but that is more of an installation problem than a functioning problem.
some one told me to cut it with a saw zaw I thought maybe I should ask you because I know you know what your doing
There is no good way to get any kind of saw blade in there without doing other damage. I have used a chisel in the past, as have others. The other ways work much better. I am planning on doing a video for the next bushings that I do, but that probably won't be for a couple more years as I don't want to take my GTS apart until it's time to do the restoration.
Did you make the stiffening plates ? Or buy them ? If bought where do I buy them at ? Thanks Jim
I bought them from the maker, but they are available from Mancini and probably other sources.
if you want it, i can sell you a template on PDF, you print it and use to cut on the metal sheet 14 gauge. We can use paypal :D
Awesome thankyou soo much for this VERY helpful movie
could you tell me how to remove the outer bushinh sleeve ? I used heat to remove pin and rubber but because of the torsion bar hook up on the back side I can't get any tools in
Here's a good discussion on the methods. I have the large tap, but have not tried it yet. The last several I have done were with the welded washer technique (or welding a large pin that I have).
www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/lower-control-arm-outer-bushing-shell-removal-frustration.180315/
why did you not show how to remove the bushings?
I had already removed them and I haven't done another set since I did that video. I need to do the control arms on my GTS, but I'm not in a position to start the restoration yet.
Whats the benefit from the stiffening plates
The stiffening plates prevent so of the twist that the LCAs can experience in hard cornering.
Have seen one bent?
Sure have. Can't really straighten one, either.
how thick are those stiffening plates?
They look to be 1/16".
hubby wanted to know would that be the same thickness to 18 gauge steel sheet 4x8 he bought? he working on a 69 charger general lee this is the last thing he wants to do before he can put it back together
No. According to what I could find 18 ga is about 3/4 the thickness as 1/16". I can measure these better later.
ok thank you that would be great
Aren5 you from fresno?you told me to stop by l8ng ago 8m from visalia.
Yes, I am in Fresno.
Must be a Ferd owner hit the dislike button