ill have to give my two takes on this tbh its a hard topic, all comes down to the personal preferences and experience. ive used the 7strand steel, coated uncoated, ect all the varietys and its pretty good for most applications other than big jerkbaits it does get a big caught up, downside is that is kinks super easy. Titanium, best material you can buy in terms of durability and kink-resisitance, works for all applications, great for softs and jerkabits, little expensive but I mean you will most likely get 5-8 leaders a spool that can easily last a year or two, only downside I find is that it is harder to tell damage on such leaders and also if you chin a lot of fish wrapping any wire around ur hands or grabbing it is a bit hard and can be a bit dangerous. Now the juicy bit fluoro and mono , yes mono. fluoro ive used in 80lb, even has a stinger, no problems , found it a little too limp for some of my jerkbaits but still a perfect material, seems to displace more water and more boyant so can work lures at a slightly higher depth with slower sink and can feel soft lures wriggle a bit better as the leader moves and displaces water. I saw people get bit off on pike fight 2017, yes using 80lb and it put me off. however ive used 130lb and its perfect, flawless really, just hard to get a hold off and I lost the one leader I got from a friend. So I went to try some 150lb Berkley trielene mono, at 1.2mm diameter, it is softer and more boyant than fluoro, still id say a abrasion resisitance equal to maybe 100lb fluroro, works just as well as 80lb fluoro, jerkbaits suspend a little longer than fluoro and have a little more buoyancy, soft lures seem to work a little higher up , apart from that no difference, I prefer mono/fluoro mainly because I can grap it in the water, I find it a lot nicer to use in terms of feel, easy to make on the bank, cheap and the main reason, I can see the frays, I know when to change, to retye, it gives me that 100% certainty in my leaders. At the end of the day as long as you are 100% with ur tackle
Agreed, I've only just started lure fishing since our trout season closed in September, but I've been fishing other techniques for many seasons. I've always thought that finding a trusted brand of f-carbon is difficult for flyfishing etc.so I've tended to use mono. I was advised on some good f-carbon by my tackle shop, but max dia was 30 for 20lb bs. So I have made up traces in Ti/Drennan 7 strand and solid stainless. As stated above, the trace material can be selected to to the action of the lure- eg I found casting and retrieving a floating buster jerk in the margins on a flexi trace did not achieve the depth I was aiming for, the solid ss trace works it spot on. My flyfishing now is "euro nymphing" the top anglers at this method advise using f-carbon as it sinks faster, fine-if using leaded tungsten headed nymphs in 4-6 feet of fast water, but I have to use size 16/18 in 2-3 feet and f-carbon is too stiff for the nymphs to fish correctly, so I use mono, and I found f-carbon tricky to knot in the diameters I use-so as above, its got its place as long as long as it works on your waters and you select the correct dia and can find a trusted brand.
Iv been using 100lb and 150lb mono for my pike traces for the last 3years. I found it great and my mate was using the same until last year he got a big pike bite clean through it took bait an all.. then he had another bite off early this year. I was a bit curious to was he changing his trace when it was frayed.. but then a few weeks ago I got a pike 100cm and when I netted the pike and went to take the lure out she had bite through the 150lb mono in the net..I think I might move to florocarbon as it feels harder
It also has to do with your rod setup. If you use heavy braid and very heavy rod you need much thicker fluorocarbon then lets say lighter lure with a softer medium rod. You can go a little thiner if you got experience. Like 80mm flourocarbon. For heavy lures i use 1.2mm
Ok I'll play. Between Christmas and New year I was fishing in Spain for predators. All the pro guides out there were using Floro leaders. Last September I was in Denmark and November in Norway. All the pro guides used Floro leaders. February 26th I fly to Serbia for two days predator fishing. The pro guide im fishing with uses Floro leaders. And finally, ive booked five days in June to fish for Pike in Sweden. The two pro guides ive booked with both use Floro leader. Some of the guy ive mentioned have Pike in the upper 30lb's. They do it for a living. If floro is good enough for them 'tis good enough for an amateur/rubbish fisherman like me. Not to mention ive seen you catch a shed-load of Pike on your channel with Floro. In closing, use what you want but i've switched to Floro, im happy. as always, cheers for sharing.
I've got fluoro on for dropshot and light jig fishing for perch, it certainly brings you more bites when you're fishing light, I like the titanium for pike its pretty good and doesn't kink easily so I haven't gone through many leaders with it, it costs more yes but it goes a lot further👍🎣
Started using fluro after watching some of your vids, definitely better than wire, made some of my own up now, but started out using the savage gear ready made traces, no kink's and last a long time, just keep eye on to make sure no weak points, and invisible to my eyes in water!!
I have used 60lb flourocarbon for pike flyfishing for 30 years and never been bitten off. I think people who have had lures/flies bitten off are mistaking a poor knot to a bite off. Flouro breaks straight and does not leave the usual signs that mono does, eg a pig tail at the break point. 90% of flouro sold is not 100% flouro but a monofilament coated in flourocarbon. Only the very expensive flouro is 100%.
@Kevin Bucknall -yes, I remember when f-carbon came on the market, fly anglers seized on it for tippets as it sinks and is invisible -hmm, anyway, the first stuff was pretty horrible, the two main causes of problems were knot failure due to lack of care and or using old mono knots that were not suited to f-carbon, but what drove me nuts, was anglers with 7/8/9 wt rods and lines, using silly dia f-carbon as tippet for a small dry fly - hoiking a WF 8 line off the water to connect with a 2lb trout often lead to a break off-f-carbon has improved now but as you say, you have to watchout because there a flouro coated monos out there.
In my younger years, grandpa and uncle always used the basic steel leaders you buy at the tackle store. It was just the way it was. But a lot of the lakes I fish are very clear water, so I started experimenting with heavy fluoro and nylon mono. The result? Whenever I can find heavy mono (50lb or higher) I use that tied with an FG knot to the braid mainline. It’s very hard to find that stuff around here though because I’m in Wisconsin, and saltwater fishing is obviously not an option here so there’s not much available in the way of heavy monofilament. Lately I’ve been using Daiwa J-Fluoro in 60lb. on my heavy gear (0.029” thick, tied to my 50lb. braid mainline) and the same Daiwa stuff in the 50lb. on my lighter gear (0.022”, tied to the 20lb. braid mainline). I really like this stuff, it’s quality Japanese fluoro and it’s VERY inexpensive, 50 yards for $20 in the heavier strengths.
I've caught perch, zander, chub and pike on wire (both steel strand and titanium) and my rivers are clear water, I used flouro when nymph fishing for trout, but binned it, the main reason being it got damaged and kinked when drawing the knot tight unless you are ultra careful. I also use 0.8 stainless wire for jerkbaits and that catches fish plus the baits work a lot better. The problems with flourocarbon I've seen are that some anglers think its some sort of super material and fish it in too light diameters, anyone with a youtube channel using flourocarbon for pike should make sure they specify what diameters they are using as you have here, hopefully that might get more people using flourocarbon correctly. Whatever you use for traces should be binned and replaced regularly as it gets hammered when casting, being pulled out of snags, jerked around when working baits and of course coming into contact with fish teeth/bony jaws. You also made the point about quality- some "flourocarbon" is junk, and there is also "flouro coated mono" whatever thats supposed to be, so check what you are buying-I'm a welder - and all Ti, steels, ali are not the same quality so check where the stuff is made not naming any names, although quality has improved now though. Crimping the flouro is a good idea, probably tricky to knot in heavy diameters I would think???.
Remember when fishing large lures for pike and heavy rod use thicker fluorocarbon at least 1mm plus but thicker is better. Or when i fish skirted jigs on a medium heavy rod with 50lbs braid i also use thicker fluorocarbon rod because you set the hook harder at close range! When using smaller baits and a medium rod with softer tip you can use something like 75mm fluorocarbon and above. I don't see people talk about this which worries me for inexperienced anglers cutting fish off because of these small details. You got a lot of anglers talking 70mm is pike proof but it is not when setting the hook hard with a big lure or skirted jig on a heavy meter plus pike!
I really like the 49 strand steel wire. Mainly for the softness and because I can knot it. It doesn't kink too badly if you don't intentionally pinch it :)), much better than 7 strand wire. I have to give that titanium stuff a try. Good vid.
The weight of a leader can influence the behavior of a lure, or even make a normally floating lure sink. Fluorocarbon is quite heavy and just not good for topwater lures. Titanium is light, but the stiffness can affect a lure also.
Thanks for the mono/ Floro test tip! I have 4 reel spools 2 with 15lb mono and 2 with 15lb floro and I could not remember which was on which all 4 look identical. I will do the burn test.
Brilliant video, thanks mate for putting this out there. I am very keen to try Fluorocarbon leader as you mentioned as apposed to these bending wire / titanium leaders 😀👍🏽 🎣. Makes perfect sense.
Love your videos, very nice channel, im from Sweden and fished for about 30 years. I recently talked about this with Claes Claeson aka SvartZonker, you see here in Sweden we use 90% Fluo and 10% Ti wire mostly as our leaders, the TI being mostly for jerkbaits. Me myself however I do not follow that trend. Me myself was using Fluo for more then 10 years but have recently changed, today I fish TI 60lbs wire for my Jerkbaits (or "pure hardhats without spoon") and for everything else I use a stainless steel wire 60lbs, I only use Fluo today when I want to throw a lure that maximize my recommended casting weight on the rod. Why not Fluo for me? well after 25+ years of fishing I have changed leader materials countless of times and just as a fly line and their leaders, tapering and diameter is an important factor. Casting a 1-1,5mm Fluo leader, or even thicker if you go Mono is to stiff and thick for it being comfortable, and you don't feel the rod loading as it should, when going with a SS wire or TI wire I like the thickness and flexibility more and I can feel my rod loading better meaning better connection with my bait/lure, Fluo being thick and being able to stretch is the total opposite. Another downside with fluo is simply that if it gets damaged it starts to peel off and you need to change leaders, for me I went through a spool of 50m 1,2mm Fluo during the summer, and following summer I used a total of 3 SS wires and 1 TI wire. Visability wise there is a difference of course, but it have not affected my fishing noticeable, and this is exclusive to Pike, when fishing Perch, Trout, Seatrut and even Salmon I have found that Fluo works better. In the end it comes to preference, this is what I discovered after all my tears fishing, the important aspect is that you choose what you like the most, one thing to note is do not always think of what "looks better for the fish" and thing of ergonomics some times as well.
Happy New Year to you i made my leaders by myself using 43.5lb sg regenerator and spro crimps so far been ok , will see this year when i will have more contact with pikes , just to give you ideas i would like to try cod or pollock fishing it would be nice to see like a video for beginners for sea fishing ( where licence reel rod lures and how etc ) , thanks for another nice video
Hi . Loved the video . Nice and controversial, I've used them all before with varying results .I'm going to try Flouro for my Jerk Baiting based on your results, which are impressive . Although I do believe it effects lure action ,I can live with that .I've managed to source some 100% flouro to try in the relevant braking strain ie 1mill 100lb plus bs.That is when the lock down ends here .
Nice video. Happy new year. I've been drop shooting for a while and using fluro 8lb and have caught more pike than perch. The fluro has not been damaged by the teeth. I may try fluro with my large pike setups. Thanks for the tips🎣🎣🎣
im a massive convert to titanium, i was just about to buy all the stuff to make my own fluoros but i decided to try titanium first and i love it i class it as cheaper than steel at this point, 10 sessions 8 fish in i bought two sg leaders for a 5er and iv only used one and it seems completely fine still. but like you said they are short so i will have to start making them at some point still, stilll might try fluoro at point as i do use fluoro for my light lure fishing, i did like drennon 7 strand but havent really used it since getting onto fluoro
We all have a mate that out fish's ye but since I've changed to fluoro I've out fished every time on bank and trolling I also use the canoe man's loop knot never bitten off yet.. great vid
Fished with a coated wire trace yesterday, changed it coz in my river it really stood out, where as standard wire and Ti don't. Think the summary to this is that one material is no better than others, but it depends on what lures you are fishing, head of fish in your waters, fishing pressure where you fish, snags or no snags, rocky bed or silty bed and so on. Having seen the info on strengths of fc and knots used here, I'd use it-before I wouldn't because I have not seen heavy duty fc. Think the bottom line is, all trace materials are good, some maybe better for some situations, some may be more convenient in that they last longer-but all terminal tackle should be checked and replaced regularly whatever materiel it is ?. As a novice to fc for traces, I would check around to make sure I get a trusted brand, I'll probably get some Savage Gear stuff to start as I rate their kit-only downside to Savage Gear is having to shout BAM!! every time you get a fish -people think you are nuts coz its POW! for pike and ZAP! for zander- BAM! is for bass and bream.
I use titanium for everything now. I use L/UL gamakastu pre made ones for perch fishing (all the waters I fish for perch, have pike) and make my own ones for the pike as my local waters require minimum 18” trace and can’t find them pre made in titanium. I have seen a couple people get bitten off with fluorocarbon and it put me off so wouldn’t ever use it personally, I never miss out on any perch through using titanium and the pike never hesitate either.
Nice to see you back. Since I started watching a load of pike vids last year I’ve been amazed how opinionated pike anglers can get around fish care. You have proved beyond doubt that 80lb flouro is as safe as anything else, if not safer. Any chance you could do a short vid on the knot you use to the braid and snap please?
I use titanium for pike just because the rules say metal leaders must be used. I would rather use fc. It seems to have been embraced elsewhere and works well. I use fc for perch fishing and have caught pike upto 10lb when hunting for perch. Never picked up any damage from our toothy friends. It's about time we moved with the times and allowed fc on our waters.
@@pikeandperch agreed there are many people who just like to argue for the sake of it. Wish I had the money to get my own waters and start the fc revolution haha
I only use Fluoro leaders and the main reason why is because it doesn't drag the bait down like a wire leader does. I fish a lot of suspending jerkbait and even a small amount of weight can ruin the action of the bait. The other reason is, I get more bites on it. Even when using using a lure that you are reeling all the time so weight is not a problem I catch more and bigger fish on Fluoro. So I use 80 lb Yo-zuri disappearing pink fluorocarbon tied to my 30lb Suffix braid with the FG knot, which is by far the best knot for tying on a leader period. I use about 18" of leader with a dou-lock snap on the end, tied on with a 4 turn uni knot. In about 15 years of pike fishing and well over 1000 pike I have only lost one fish because it cut the leader. If you are interested in learning how to tie the FG knot the easiest way check it out here. th-cam.com/video/IZyRlNSqt4w/w-d-xo.html
AFW toothproof for me in 75lb I use fluro on my perch set up but if people haven’t had any problems with using it for pike then that’s up to them if they want to use it I’ll always stick to wire as I know there is no chance of a bite off and it presents my lures better
Awesome Dan, just gave me the confidence I needed to buy some fluorocarbon now. I posted on the pike anglers group about what thickness fluoro is beat for pike and the whole group starting ha ing a go daying its wire only 🤣🤣 only about 5% actually answered my question and advised on the thickness I need and they were from overseas lol
@@pikeandperch loads better, never had one snap, don't think I would go back to wire, I tend to use 0.9mm thick with 2-3 feet with a double barrel crimp, I find crimping better fix
Hi Dan, any tips on how to tie heavy fluro(113lb) to braid. I’ve checked out the uni knot and can get it to cinch up nice on the braid side but the fluro side, I can get neat at all🤷🏼♂️ cheers mate👍
I've been bitten off on 150lb seagur FC, never used it since. Just because you've not been bitten off, doesn't mean it can't happen. As a leaders job is to prevent you getting bitten off I'd never recommend it to anyone. Titanium isn't really that expensive considering how long it lasts, some of my leaders are over a year old and have caught hundreds of fish so even if it worked out each leader cost me a fiver, it's no big deal really.
id like to ask, as I do believe could happen but are you sure you didn't have a crimp fail, a bad knot , ect? was you knot a loop , they are known get cut off easily , did you check ur trace often, any fray sighns , ect? was the take a heavy slack or standard?
@@kieran5694, the pike had engulfed a smuttly db4, I played it all the way to the net when it thrashed about a bit and sliced through the FC like a knife through butter. No slipping as it was knotted, no component failure, other than using a leader material not suitable for the job.
A friend of mine has trawled his Savage Gear regenerator mono leader 1.2 mm behind his boat all year has had over 100 pike on same leader and there are no nicks or marks on it. He converted me.
Really helpful never really understood had more pike break of 12lb Fluro than 8lb mono think it’s got a lot down to luck or just trying to fight the fish to hard
Christopher Holland I don't think 12 or 8 lb anything is ever suitable for any sort of pike fishing Either as a mainline or god forbid a leader material You'll end up killing fish I would only use 12 lb braid as a mainline foe perch fishing with tiny lures and baits as in ultralight fishing
Hiya mate nice vid, based on that I've just bought a spool of The Berkley flouro. What knot would you suggest? I'm tempted to try the trilene knot, any other suggestions?
Hi DB fishing please could you do a video on a guide of how to cast a bait caster reel with out getting tangles. Would really appreciate it as I have got a bait caster bait afraid to use it.
Craig Mitchell have a look on some other videos mate I had a look and sorted my bait caster reel out straight away and not lost a lure or had any birds nests since
Ok thanks what does side casting do that’s better than a over head cast with a bait caster? Also I have heard that something like 80lb braid as a mainline for a baitcaster is the way to go as this will reduce birds nest when casting is this true?
Theres also authanic. A braided leader with steel in it to make it significantly lighter and kinks pull right out of it. Just not as durable as steel or titanium
do you have any proof, a pike will easily bite through anything over 1mm , I don't doubt that. however cant imagine anyone in America being too conserved with the fish safety
We need some more pike vids, loving the channel, and me and my mate have possibly really got the bug for it at the moment thanks to watching a lot of your vids, should check out our vid we uploaded today, cheers
@@pikeandperch it is yeah, Mads spent ages on it, the european lads don't use anything else. I've got a few spools here. Fancy a fish in the next few weeks? I'll bring it with me
There's a website selling tianium-nickel alloy leader wire , you get 5m for a fiver. If you're looking to save money on wire , It's called cahira - Nitinol
ill have to give my two takes on this tbh its a hard topic, all comes down to the personal preferences and experience. ive used the 7strand steel, coated uncoated, ect all the varietys and its pretty good for most applications other than big jerkbaits it does get a big caught up, downside is that is kinks super easy. Titanium, best material you can buy in terms of durability and kink-resisitance, works for all applications, great for softs and jerkabits, little expensive but I mean you will most likely get 5-8 leaders a spool that can easily last a year or two, only downside I find is that it is harder to tell damage on such leaders and also if you chin a lot of fish wrapping any wire around ur hands or grabbing it is a bit hard and can be a bit dangerous. Now the juicy bit fluoro and mono , yes mono. fluoro ive used in 80lb, even has a stinger, no problems , found it a little too limp for some of my jerkbaits but still a perfect material, seems to displace more water and more boyant so can work lures at a slightly higher depth with slower sink and can feel soft lures wriggle a bit better as the leader moves and displaces water. I saw people get bit off on pike fight 2017, yes using 80lb and it put me off. however ive used 130lb and its perfect, flawless really, just hard to get a hold off and I lost the one leader I got from a friend. So I went to try some 150lb Berkley trielene mono, at 1.2mm diameter, it is softer and more boyant than fluoro, still id say a abrasion resisitance equal to maybe 100lb fluroro, works just as well as 80lb fluoro, jerkbaits suspend a little longer than fluoro and have a little more buoyancy, soft lures seem to work a little higher up , apart from that no difference, I prefer mono/fluoro mainly because I can grap it in the water, I find it a lot nicer to use in terms of feel, easy to make on the bank, cheap and the main reason, I can see the frays, I know when to change, to retye, it gives me that 100% certainty in my leaders. At the end of the day as long as you are 100% with ur tackle
Agreed, I've only just started lure fishing since our trout season closed in September, but I've been fishing other techniques for many seasons. I've always thought that finding a trusted brand of f-carbon is difficult for flyfishing etc.so I've tended to use mono. I was advised on some good f-carbon by my tackle shop, but max dia was 30 for 20lb bs. So I have made up traces in Ti/Drennan 7 strand and solid stainless. As stated above, the trace material can be selected to to the action of the lure- eg I found casting and retrieving a floating buster jerk in the margins on a flexi trace did not achieve the depth I was aiming for, the solid ss trace works it spot on. My flyfishing now is "euro nymphing" the top anglers at this method advise using f-carbon as it sinks faster, fine-if using leaded tungsten headed nymphs in 4-6 feet of fast water, but I have to use size 16/18 in 2-3 feet and f-carbon is too stiff for the nymphs to fish correctly, so I use mono, and I found f-carbon tricky to knot in the diameters I use-so as above, its got its place as long as long as it works on your waters and you select the correct dia and can find a trusted brand.
0.30 for 20lb bs-I was talking out of my rear end, it was 0.30 for 6.5 kg -too light for traces.
Iv been using 100lb and 150lb mono for my pike traces for the last 3years. I found it great and my mate was using the same until last year he got a big pike bite clean through it took bait an all.. then he had another bite off early this year. I was a bit curious to was he changing his trace when it was frayed.. but then a few weeks ago I got a pike 100cm and when I netted the pike and went to take the lure out she had bite through the 150lb mono in the net..I think I might move to florocarbon as it feels harder
It also has to do with your rod setup. If you use heavy braid and very heavy rod you need much thicker fluorocarbon then lets say lighter lure with a softer medium rod. You can go a little thiner if you got experience. Like 80mm flourocarbon. For heavy lures i use 1.2mm
Ok I'll play. Between Christmas and New year I was fishing in Spain for predators. All the pro guides out there were using Floro leaders. Last September I was in Denmark and November in Norway. All the pro guides used Floro leaders. February 26th I fly to Serbia for two days predator fishing. The pro guide im fishing with uses Floro leaders. And finally, ive booked five days in June to fish for Pike in Sweden. The two pro guides ive booked with both use Floro leader. Some of the guy ive mentioned have Pike in the upper 30lb's. They do it for a living. If floro is good enough for them 'tis good enough for an amateur/rubbish fisherman like me. Not to mention ive seen you catch a shed-load of Pike on your channel with Floro. In closing, use what you want but i've switched to Floro, im happy. as always, cheers for sharing.
I've got fluoro on for dropshot and light jig fishing for perch, it certainly brings you more bites when you're fishing light, I like the titanium for pike its pretty good and doesn't kink easily so I haven't gone through many leaders with it, it costs more yes but it goes a lot further👍🎣
Started using fluro after watching some of your vids, definitely better than wire, made some of my own up now, but started out using the savage gear ready made traces, no kink's and last a long time, just keep eye on to make sure no weak points, and invisible to my eyes in water!!
I have used 60lb flourocarbon for pike flyfishing for 30 years and never been bitten off. I think people who have had lures/flies bitten off are mistaking a poor knot to a bite off. Flouro breaks straight and does not leave the usual signs that mono does, eg a pig tail at the break point. 90% of flouro sold is not 100% flouro but a monofilament coated in flourocarbon. Only the very expensive flouro is 100%.
@Kevin Bucknall -yes, I remember when f-carbon came on the market, fly anglers seized on it for tippets as it sinks and is invisible -hmm, anyway, the first stuff was pretty horrible, the two main causes of problems were knot failure due to lack of care and or using old mono knots that were not suited to f-carbon, but what drove me nuts, was anglers with 7/8/9 wt rods and lines, using silly dia f-carbon as tippet for a small dry fly - hoiking a WF 8 line off the water to connect with a 2lb trout often lead to a break off-f-carbon has improved now but as you say, you have to watchout because there a flouro coated monos out there.
In my younger years, grandpa and uncle always used the basic steel leaders you buy at the tackle store. It was just the way it was. But a lot of the lakes I fish are very clear water, so I started experimenting with heavy fluoro and nylon mono. The result? Whenever I can find heavy mono (50lb or higher) I use that tied with an FG knot to the braid mainline. It’s very hard to find that stuff around here though because I’m in Wisconsin, and saltwater fishing is obviously not an option here so there’s not much available in the way of heavy monofilament.
Lately I’ve been using Daiwa J-Fluoro in 60lb. on my heavy gear (0.029” thick, tied to my 50lb. braid mainline) and the same Daiwa stuff in the 50lb. on my lighter gear (0.022”, tied to the 20lb. braid mainline). I really like this stuff, it’s quality Japanese fluoro and it’s VERY inexpensive, 50 yards for $20 in the heavier strengths.
I've caught perch, zander, chub and pike on wire (both steel strand and titanium) and my rivers are clear water, I used flouro when nymph fishing for trout, but binned it, the main reason being it got damaged and kinked when drawing the knot tight unless you are ultra careful. I also use 0.8 stainless wire for jerkbaits and that catches fish plus the baits work a lot better. The problems with flourocarbon I've seen are that some anglers think its some sort of super material and fish it in too light diameters, anyone with a youtube channel using flourocarbon for pike should make sure they specify what diameters they are using as you have here, hopefully that might get more people using flourocarbon correctly. Whatever you use for traces should be binned and replaced regularly as it gets hammered when casting, being pulled out of snags, jerked around when working baits and of course coming into contact with fish teeth/bony jaws. You also made the point about quality- some "flourocarbon" is junk, and there is also "flouro coated mono" whatever thats supposed to be, so check what you are buying-I'm a welder - and all Ti, steels, ali are not the same quality so check where the stuff is made not naming any names, although quality has improved now though. Crimping the flouro is a good idea, probably tricky to knot in heavy diameters I would think???.
Remember when fishing large lures for pike and heavy rod use thicker fluorocarbon at least 1mm plus but thicker is better. Or when i fish skirted jigs on a medium heavy rod with 50lbs braid i also use thicker fluorocarbon rod because you set the hook harder at close range! When using smaller baits and a medium rod with softer tip you can use something like 75mm fluorocarbon and above. I don't see people talk about this which worries me for inexperienced anglers cutting fish off because of these small details. You got a lot of anglers talking 70mm is pike proof but it is not when setting the hook hard with a big lure or skirted jig on a heavy meter plus pike!
I really like the 49 strand steel wire. Mainly for the softness and because I can knot it. It doesn't kink too badly if you don't intentionally pinch it :)), much better than 7 strand wire. I have to give that titanium stuff a try. Good vid.
The weight of a leader can influence the behavior of a lure, or even make a normally floating lure sink. Fluorocarbon is quite heavy and just not good for topwater lures. Titanium is light, but the stiffness can affect a lure also.
Very informative video... happy new year and great to see you back making vids!
Thanks for the mono/ Floro test tip! I have 4 reel spools 2 with 15lb mono and 2 with 15lb floro and I could not remember which was on which all 4 look identical. I will do the burn test.
Brilliant video, thanks mate for putting this out there. I am very keen to try Fluorocarbon leader as you mentioned as apposed to these bending wire / titanium leaders 😀👍🏽 🎣. Makes perfect sense.
Thanks very much for this video,I am a beginner in the leader game so this cleared it all for me! Keep up the good work an best wishes
Yesssss another video👍🎣
a real hot topic, great video mate, a real needed one as well !
Would like to see a vid on winter lure fishing for pike. Can't find a lot of tips online, curious to hear your opinion.
Love your videos, very nice channel, im from Sweden and fished for about 30 years. I recently talked about this with Claes Claeson aka SvartZonker, you see here in Sweden we use 90% Fluo and 10% Ti wire mostly as our leaders, the TI being mostly for jerkbaits. Me myself however I do not follow that trend.
Me myself was using Fluo for more then 10 years but have recently changed, today I fish TI 60lbs wire for my Jerkbaits (or "pure hardhats without spoon") and for everything else I use a stainless steel wire 60lbs, I only use Fluo today when I want to throw a lure that maximize my recommended casting weight on the rod.
Why not Fluo for me? well after 25+ years of fishing I have changed leader materials countless of times and just as a fly line and their leaders, tapering and diameter is an important factor. Casting a 1-1,5mm Fluo leader, or even thicker if you go Mono is to stiff and thick for it being comfortable, and you don't feel the rod loading as it should, when going with a SS wire or TI wire I like the thickness and flexibility more and I can feel my rod loading better meaning better connection with my bait/lure, Fluo being thick and being able to stretch is the total opposite.
Another downside with fluo is simply that if it gets damaged it starts to peel off and you need to change leaders, for me I went through a spool of 50m 1,2mm Fluo during the summer, and following summer I used a total of 3 SS wires and 1 TI wire.
Visability wise there is a difference of course, but it have not affected my fishing noticeable, and this is exclusive to Pike, when fishing Perch, Trout, Seatrut and even Salmon I have found that Fluo works better.
In the end it comes to preference, this is what I discovered after all my tears fishing, the important aspect is that you choose what you like the most, one thing to note is do not always think of what "looks better for the fish" and thing of ergonomics some times as well.
Happy New Year to you i made my leaders by myself using 43.5lb sg regenerator and spro crimps so far been ok , will see this year when i will have more contact with pikes , just to give you ideas i would like to try cod or pollock fishing it would be nice to see like a video for beginners for sea fishing ( where licence reel rod lures and how etc ) , thanks for another nice video
Hi . Loved the video . Nice and controversial, I've used them all before with varying results .I'm going to try Flouro for my Jerk Baiting
based on your results, which are impressive . Although I do believe it effects lure action ,I can live with that .I've managed to source some 100% flouro to try in the relevant braking strain ie 1mill 100lb plus bs.That is when the lock down ends here .
Nice video. Happy new year.
I've been drop shooting for a while and using fluro 8lb and have caught more pike than perch. The fluro has not been damaged by the teeth. I may try fluro with my large pike setups. Thanks for the tips🎣🎣🎣
Great vid mate. Cheers for sharing the opinions and expertise
im a massive convert to titanium, i was just about to buy all the stuff to make my own fluoros but i decided to try titanium first and i love it i class it as cheaper than steel at this point, 10 sessions 8 fish in i bought two sg leaders for a 5er and iv only used one and it seems completely fine still. but like you said they are short so i will have to start making them at some point still, stilll might try fluoro at point as i do use fluoro for my light lure fishing, i did like drennon 7 strand but havent really used it since getting onto fluoro
We all have a mate that out fish's ye but since I've changed to fluoro I've out fished every time on bank and trolling I also use the canoe man's loop knot never bitten off yet.. great vid
What strength fluro leader was you using?🎣
Fished with a coated wire trace yesterday, changed it coz in my river it really stood out, where as standard wire and Ti don't.
Think the summary to this is that one material is no better than others, but it depends on what lures you are fishing, head of fish in your waters, fishing pressure where you fish, snags or no snags, rocky bed or silty bed and so on. Having seen the info on strengths of fc and knots used here, I'd use it-before I wouldn't because I have not seen heavy duty fc. Think the bottom line is, all trace materials are good, some maybe better for some situations, some may be more convenient in that they last longer-but all terminal tackle should be checked and replaced regularly whatever materiel it is ?. As a novice to fc for traces, I would check around to make sure I get a trusted brand, I'll probably get some Savage Gear stuff to start as I rate their kit-only downside to Savage Gear is having to shout BAM!! every time you get a fish -people think you are nuts coz its POW! for pike and ZAP! for zander- BAM! is for bass and bream.
More like this please! Great to see both sides of it
I use titanium for everything now. I use L/UL gamakastu pre made ones for perch fishing (all the waters I fish for perch, have pike) and make my own ones for the pike as my local waters require minimum 18” trace and can’t find them pre made in titanium. I have seen a couple people get bitten off with fluorocarbon and it put me off so wouldn’t ever use it personally, I never miss out on any perch through using titanium and the pike never hesitate either.
Yeah,nothing beats wire,in Florida you have to use wire for Peacock bass because they have sharp teeth.
Thanks for the video I found it very informative.
You have a very good opinion my friend !
A video on leaders for perch fishing ?
So if you had to pick which one..? Fluorocarbon or Mono leader...?
You should try VMCs titanium leader. Its not stiff at all. Its softer than most steel leaders i have tried.
Fluorocarbon is a mono line...
That’s so much for the vid. Been wondering about that for a while
Nice to see you back. Since I started watching a load of pike vids last year I’ve been amazed how opinionated pike anglers can get around fish care. You have proved beyond doubt that 80lb flouro is as safe as anything else, if not safer. Any chance you could do a short vid on the knot you use to the braid and snap please?
I use titanium for pike just because the rules say metal leaders must be used. I would rather use fc. It seems to have been embraced elsewhere and works well. I use fc for perch fishing and have caught pike upto 10lb when hunting for perch. Never picked up any damage from our toothy friends. It's about time we moved with the times and allowed fc on our waters.
@@pikeandperch agreed there are many people who just like to argue for the sake of it. Wish I had the money to get my own waters and start the fc revolution haha
I only use Fluoro leaders and the main reason why is because it doesn't drag the bait down like a wire leader does. I fish a lot of suspending jerkbait and even a small amount of weight can ruin the action of the bait. The other reason is, I get more bites on it. Even when using using a lure that you are reeling all the time so weight is not a problem I catch more and bigger fish on Fluoro. So I use 80 lb Yo-zuri disappearing pink fluorocarbon tied to my 30lb Suffix braid with the FG knot, which is by far the best knot for tying on a leader period. I use about 18" of leader with a dou-lock snap on the end, tied on with a 4 turn uni knot. In about 15 years of pike fishing and well over 1000 pike I have only lost one fish because it cut the leader. If you are interested in learning how to tie the FG knot the easiest way check it out here. th-cam.com/video/IZyRlNSqt4w/w-d-xo.html
AFW toothproof for me in 75lb I use fluro on my perch set up but if people haven’t had any problems with using it for pike then that’s up to them if they want to use it I’ll always stick to wire as I know there is no chance of a bite off and it presents my lures better
Awesome Dan, just gave me the confidence I needed to buy some fluorocarbon now. I posted on the pike anglers group about what thickness fluoro is beat for pike and the whole group starting ha ing a go daying its wire only 🤣🤣 only about 5% actually answered my question and advised on the thickness I need and they were from overseas lol
What size double barrel crimps you using on the 80lb Trilene Flurocarbon please !!?? 😁😁
I used to use short ready made titanium ones when I fishing up in Sweden never had one fail and caught lots of pike
Switched over to fluro, savage gear regenerator for sometime now and never had a problem
@@pikeandperch loads better, never had one snap, don't think I would go back to wire, I tend to use 0.9mm thick with 2-3 feet with a double barrel crimp, I find crimping better fix
I use titanium! Thanks for the advise mate!
Fantastic video mate!
Single titanium is not so good but 1x7 titanium AFW is better and you can fish a year with out any problem!
A pike is only interested in the lure not the line so if there is any chance of a bite off with flouro why risk it
Fluro traces are the best I use minimum 100lbs personally use 150lb
Hi Dan, any tips on how to tie heavy fluro(113lb) to braid. I’ve checked out the uni knot and can get it to cinch up nice on the braid side but the fluro side, I can get neat at all🤷🏼♂️ cheers mate👍
I've been bitten off on 150lb seagur FC, never used it since.
Just because you've not been bitten off, doesn't mean it can't happen.
As a leaders job is to prevent you getting bitten off I'd never recommend it to anyone.
Titanium isn't really that expensive considering how long it lasts, some of my leaders are over a year old and have caught hundreds of fish so even if it worked out each leader cost me a fiver, it's no big deal really.
Some of my fluro traces are over a year old too lol
Like I said, it doesn't mean they can't be bitten through, it just means it's not happened yet.
@@daniellaw8999 seen wire been bitten through before too so both have cons and find wire more likely to slip hence why I changed, cheaper too
id like to ask, as I do believe could happen but are you sure you didn't have a crimp fail, a bad knot , ect? was you knot a loop , they are known get cut off easily , did you check ur trace often, any fray sighns , ect? was the take a heavy slack or standard?
@@kieran5694, the pike had engulfed a smuttly db4, I played it all the way to the net when it thrashed about a bit and sliced through the FC like a knife through butter.
No slipping as it was knotted, no component failure, other than using a leader material not suitable for the job.
A friend of mine has trawled his Savage Gear regenerator mono leader 1.2 mm behind his boat all year has had over 100 pike on same leader and there are no nicks or marks on it. He converted me.
Really helpful never really understood had more pike break of 12lb Fluro than 8lb mono think it’s got a lot down to luck or just trying to fight the fish to hard
Christopher Holland I don't think 12 or 8 lb anything is ever suitable for any sort of pike fishing
Either as a mainline or god forbid a leader material
You'll end up killing fish
I would only use 12 lb braid as a mainline foe perch fishing with tiny lures and baits as in ultralight fishing
I use 80lb 7 strand shark wire double crimp. 1 trace lasted all year had plenty of fish on it biggest of 25lb 12oz
Hiya mate nice vid, based on that I've just bought a spool of The Berkley flouro. What knot would you suggest?
I'm tempted to try the trilene knot, any other suggestions?
Crimp it ,stronger than knot
when my fluro is bend i use a leather glove end rub it til its warm or i hold it in the steam of a water boiler and stretch it it will be straight
What knot do you use for tying 80lbs Fluoro to swivel/lure clip
Hi DB fishing please could you do a video on a guide of how to cast a bait caster reel with out getting tangles. Would really appreciate it as I have got a bait caster bait afraid to use it.
Craig Mitchell have a look on some other videos mate I had a look and sorted my bait caster reel out straight away and not lost a lure or had any birds nests since
Cast sideways
Ok thanks what does side casting do that’s better than a over head cast with a bait caster? Also I have heard that something like 80lb braid as a mainline for a baitcaster is the way to go as this will reduce birds nest when casting is this true?
Cast anyway u please but hold reel sideways hard to explain a guy called cats and carp did a vid on it
if you had to choose just one type of leader material what would be???
Theres also authanic. A braided leader with steel in it to make it significantly lighter and kinks pull right out of it. Just not as durable as steel or titanium
Ever try Seaguar?
Idk how but people in the northern United states even get into 12 pound flouro, 25 pound. Which they use for like musky. Idk hwk but they manage it
do you have any proof, a pike will easily bite through anything over 1mm , I don't doubt that. however cant imagine anyone in America being too conserved with the fish safety
@@kieran5694 ice fishing videos? Idk man I've seen forum posts, and youtube videos. Cant quote a specific place
We need some more pike vids, loving the channel, and me and my mate have possibly really got the bug for it at the moment thanks to watching a lot of your vids, should check out our vid we uploaded today, cheers
I'm in a fly fishing group and a dude said he used a 6 weight for Jack's and everyone almost had a cow.
Don't see any reason why people would be upset, 6 weight more then capable for jacks
Have you had a play with Regenerator Dan?
@@pikeandperch it is yeah, Mads spent ages on it, the european lads don't use anything else. I've got a few spools here. Fancy a fish in the next few weeks? I'll bring it with me
There's a website selling tianium-nickel alloy leader wire , you get 5m for a fiver. If you're looking to save money on wire , It's called cahira - Nitinol
good vid, dan
When fishing for Peacock bass you usually have to go with steel.
Completely false. Peacock bass have very small teeth like largemouth bass. Fluorocarbon works best
Good video m8
Why its not good using shorter leaders please?
JackSparrow x if taken deep the teeth will go above the trace.
Caught a pike on 10lb mainline with a Chinese size zero spinner and it did nothing to the line
Lots of tests on mono v fluorocarbon on TH-cam and the mono wins all the tests and on invisibility there’s not much difference in the tests.
Defiantly wire trace for me always works flurocarbon breaks easily
...if u burn fc with lighter, u will have a bit of black blob...and yes...fc and titanium r way to go...
Türkiye'den selamlar, arkadaşım...
Could a pike bite through a 0.60mm flurocarbon leader?
whats your native language?
I just use 0,40/0,70 mono regenerator... pikes are up to 4 kg so heavy duty setup kills the sport.Get more footage!
I use regenerator as well, but I think you shouldn't go below 0.90, they can bite through thinner diameters easily
I use always 0.50 fluoro, never had problems.Talking about 4kg+ pikes.
Knot2kinky
whoever in this world taught you how to speak english? They do have online courses you know!