Nice how to video. 5200 works great, but sometimes too great 😀. Marine Formula works pretty good to help remove 5200. I used it to relocate my center console on my previous boat. I have a seacock on my thru-hull for my livewell. This allows me to prevent water from coming through even if the pump broke.
Yeah, the seacock is a great thing to have and I considered it. I'll probably do it next time it breaks ! Until then, I'll keep some corks I can stuff in the hole ! Thanks for watching !
*Bow chick-uh bow bow!* *A mega-sized thank you for visiting my channel, BluzGuitar Guy. Your support is greatly appreciated!* *Returning you some love with a **_full play_** and like #12 from Bits of Real Panther!* *Very pro intro there, friend. I like it!* *I don't own a boat, but I'm always happy to help others -- we're all playing in this TH-cam oompa-band together!* *Well, Hump Day is finally here! Meow!*
If I am correct I remember the current standard safety requirements for thru hull fittings for such devices should have a manual shut-off valve inline such as a bronze valve connected to hull hole and THEN the pump connected to the valve. This would aid in being able to shut off inlet incase of failure like you already experienced. My boat came from the builder with bronze valves at the inlets before pumps.
5200 is some tenacious stuff! I try to avoid it for anything non permanent. 4200 like you chose is a much better choice. 😎 I've had those break many times before. I'm not sure I'd mount it below waterline without a ball valve to close the through hull.
Hello. I allways use S.STEEL through hull fittings. The plastics fail due to the uv from the sun. They become brittle and the it do not take much to fail.Never fail with STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS. Gerard.
I agree ..about the plastic. However, I did more research after making this video....and found that stainless steel is not recommended for below the water line in salt water...they say. Bronze is what they tell you to use. My guess is....( only a guess) ..the stainless will react badly with the galvanization below the water line and deteriorate. It does rust, eventually. But the plastic.....yeah....it's going to break for sure. Thanks for watching !
'Marine' grade bronze fittings will not pit and get brittle as fast as stainless. BUT...there are multiple grades of bronze just like stainless....marine grade bronze ( not the bronze from homedepot) does not have zinc in the alloy. The guy in the video should have used the chance to install a bronze valve thru the hole and connect the pump to valve so next time he could have shut the flow off.
Thanks ! That could have ben BAD if I had not caught it. I had probably leaned on it when I took my drain plug out at the car wash and cracked it. Appreciate you stopping by !
I really like Sea Pro boats ! 'Glad it turned out Ok for you ! Keep an old style popping cork or two onboard now, you can plug the hole with it, by trimming it with a knife. Thanks for watching and be safe out there.
Not a fan of thru hull plastic pumps because of the material demise over time...Brass fittings & ball shut off valves...It would take @ least a 1500 to 2000 gph pump to keep up with a 1" hole not to mention the drag on the battery!!
I think the first thing you do if you ever have a serious bilge leak is to turn on your engine so that your bilge pump is effectively working off your alternator, not your battery.
@@HOLYHOUSE Agreed. I run a separate battery as my "house" battery, but it's still a good idea. Doesnt hurt to keep some spare popping corks and a knife handy, either !
Well you own a boat but do not know what you are doing,... NEVER should plastic go thur the hull below the water line, you must use a bronze fitting with a shut off vale behind the thur hull....This was your own fault, for not knowing the correct way, or trying to save a dollar...
Nice job guys! Go ahead and put in a seacock valve so you can close off that valve in the event the plastic bait tank pump housing fails.
Nice how to video. 5200 works great, but sometimes too great 😀. Marine Formula works pretty good to help remove 5200. I used it to relocate my center console on my previous boat. I have a seacock on my thru-hull for my livewell. This allows me to prevent water from coming through even if the pump broke.
Yeah, the seacock is a great thing to have and I considered it. I'll probably do it next time it breaks ! Until then, I'll keep some corks I can stuff in the hole ! Thanks for watching !
*Bow chick-uh bow bow!*
*A mega-sized thank you for visiting my channel, BluzGuitar Guy. Your support is greatly appreciated!*
*Returning you some love with a **_full play_** and like #12 from Bits of Real Panther!*
*Very pro intro there, friend. I like it!*
*I don't own a boat, but I'm always happy to help others -- we're all playing in this TH-cam oompa-band together!*
*Well, Hump Day is finally here! Meow!*
We always appreciate you stopping by, Panther ! Keep up the good work, my friend!
This is why I own grills.....and not boats! It's a lot of work to have a boat...thank goodness you know what to look for to maintain your boat Bluz!
Yup, I get it. Boat= break out another thousand ! In this case.....$50...so it's Ok.
If I am correct I remember the current standard safety requirements for thru hull fittings for such devices should have a manual shut-off valve inline such as a bronze valve connected to hull hole and THEN the pump connected to the valve. This would aid in being able to shut off inlet incase of failure like you already experienced. My boat came from the builder with bronze valves at the inlets before pumps.
5200 is some tenacious stuff! I try to avoid it for anything non permanent. 4200 like you chose is a much better choice. 😎 I've had those break many times before. I'm not sure I'd mount it below waterline without a ball valve to close the through hull.
I hear you. That's what extra corks are for, I suppose !
Yep, I always carry a couple wooden tapered plugs just in case! 😀
Showing love from James Cox today .
Awesomeness brother, yup I use that 5200 and man it's good but a pain to remove later on lol
Yup, it works almost TOO well ! Got to be careful where you use it. Thanks for dropping in !
That's why you always use a seacock
What is a sea cock?
Thank you, this was helpful!
The 5200 is best you said very hard to remove means seals water out very well why settle for less when safety involved exact same thing happen to me
Nice work, but it is safer to drill a hole in the hull, not the transom.
Hello. I allways use S.STEEL through hull fittings. The plastics fail due to the uv from the sun. They become brittle and the it do not take much to fail.Never fail with STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS.
Gerard.
I agree ..about the plastic. However, I did more research after making this video....and found that stainless steel is not recommended for below the water line in salt water...they say. Bronze is what they tell you to use. My guess is....( only a guess) ..the stainless will react badly with the galvanization below the water line and deteriorate. It does rust, eventually. But the plastic.....yeah....it's going to break for sure. Thanks for watching !
'Marine' grade bronze fittings will not pit and get brittle as fast as stainless. BUT...there are multiple grades of bronze just like stainless....marine grade bronze ( not the bronze from homedepot) does not have zinc in the alloy. The guy in the video should have used the chance to install a bronze valve thru the hole and connect the pump to valve so next time he could have shut the flow off.
Heat gun would have helped softening up the 5200
4200 is for above the waterline. All u need is specialty adhesive remover
Great video Bro
Thanks ! That could have ben BAD if I had not caught it. I had probably leaned on it when I took my drain plug out at the car wash and cracked it. Appreciate you stopping by !
I just had this same thing happen on my 22 foot Sea Pro. Thank God my bilge pump kept up because the shut off valves would not turn.
I really like Sea Pro boats ! 'Glad it turned out Ok for you ! Keep an old style popping cork or two onboard now, you can plug the hole with it, by trimming it with a knife. Thanks for watching and be safe out there.
wow u have a nice and very unique channel thankx for sharing these info ,,big like from me a new friend from #IAmAcreator
Informative video! 👍 ~Mav
Thanks. I knew that someone , sometime, would need to see it.
Hey BG Guy...How about a link to the debris cage that fits on your Attwood aerator pump? Thanks.
I think this is it : amzn.to/2FCivFK
great video. from James live
Thanks for stopping by !
Not a fan of thru hull plastic pumps because of the material demise over time...Brass fittings & ball shut off valves...It would take @ least a 1500 to 2000 gph pump to keep up with a 1" hole not to mention the drag on the battery!!
Yup!
I think the first thing you do if you ever have a serious bilge leak is to turn on your engine so that your bilge pump is effectively working off your alternator, not your battery.
@@HOLYHOUSE Agreed. I run a separate battery as my "house" battery, but it's still a good idea. Doesnt hurt to keep some spare popping corks and a knife handy, either !
One word- seacock
Those pumps are crap! I replaced thos twice cracked in the same spot. Replace it with a Johnson pumps! See what happens!
Not.
#iamacreator Hello, there! Our Disney Adventures here! New subscribers and friends! Here to support your awesome channel! #awesomesauce
Wow your going to put the same old piece of crap plastic fitting in, what a waste of time!
Well you own a boat but do not know what you are doing,... NEVER should plastic go thur the hull below the water line, you must use a bronze fitting with a shut off vale behind the thur hull....This was your own fault, for not knowing the correct way, or trying to save a dollar...