If you've been seeing success with the cuttings you purchased from me this past December, let me know in the comments! This video will hopefully improve your success rate even higher.
i did over 100 cuttings, soil, figpop bags costs 10x less then those big pots and take up very little space while growing indoors in January. I doubt i will ever do that many again, so i do not need to invest that much in pots, for just getting them started. now I have found for the money 24oz clear cups are nicer then the bags, and are reusable, methods both work but numbers and space matter. The hollier I got from you is looking good Ross thanks
Hey Ross, thank you for that videos I think you are the only person to help me out, what shape should a fig plant have, I'm thinking about how to prune mine. For example does my Ronde de bordeaux have like 5 or 6 two feet long branches going straight vertical around the center like a circle. Is that a good shape, or should I cut out some completely? Some of them are growing towards the center at the top, what should I do for that especially?
By using the 1/5 weight all the bottom of the soil dried with my heat mat and only like the top 2 inch was wet and had moisture. Decided to switch to 50/50 coconut and vermiculite. Used bit more weight and same thing around the base or where my heat mat touches it it dries but not as bad
I got some cuttings... should I cut the top and bottom to make them fresh for better rooting? They came with wax on the end.... I scored the bottom - are you supposed to score just a small portion? or about 1" on the full diameter of the bottom. I see that someone posted below that the growth pops through the wax, so perhaps I don't. and should I score off any nodes that are under the vermiculite? Also it seems like such a small amount of water. Are we supposed to water them at any point? I'm in 8A GA (formerly 7b) and rooting them indoors - if I get grow lights wont they dry them out?? Using the fig pop technique with vermiculite.
Hi Ross - I noticed that Notorious Fig uses kind of a blended method between fig pops and the 4x9 inch tree pots. He puts the cutting into the tree pot that he's filled with his rooting soil, and then puts the entire tree pot into a plastic bag that he seals around the top of the cutting - leaving some of the cutting exposed outside the top of the plastic bag. He then bottom waters by pouring a little bit of water into the plastic bag, which is absorbed into the bottom of the tree pot in order to provide water to the cutting if/when needed. I thought it was an interesting blend of two approaches.
After discussing the negatives of the fig pop method, someone commented on that video years ago that exact thing. It's amazing what comes up when you share ideas. It evolves into something better.
@@RossRaddi I have been using the method you posted maybe last year. 4x9 inch tree pots with dried rice hulls on top to help keep moisture in, and bottom heat. I had very good luck with that method, but might try the blended method just for fun. Thanks for your videos!
I've been looking to buy some fig trees I live in the state of Florida I was wondering what is the best kind of grow out here but I'd be very interested in picking up some
Hello Ross, another great vid ! I have questions, that I am having a hard time finding information on. Maybe you could help. I live in North West Florida, so I don't have to bring my figs , "inside" for the winter. My questions are : how close together , can I plant my fig trees, in ground, for max production . And the common verities , that need full sun , vs. verities that can handle partial shade , and still produce well. I know that's a lot to ask, but I see you have your trees stacked like cordwood , and I respect your opinion. Thanks for any help.
Randy, that depends on the size that you want to maintain them at. They can get to 15-20 ft easily where you are. I also wouldn't space them 2-3 ft on center like I have them because of rust issues. You need good air flow.
I got 100 % with the Harrys Crete I got from you. I do clear dixie cups with drain holes perlite in the bottom and coco coir hydrated to field capacity. I cut the lid off once I start to see good roots. I have lost maybe 8 out of a 100. I can't stand to lose any though. I have realize not all cutting are cut equal. When I lose one seems to be at some transition between the fat roots and the roots turning fibrous. I do notice most the ones I lose are the tip cuttings. I do battle fungus gnats as well so I try to keep things on the dry side.
@@RossRaddi Living in the south with warm winters and wet spring they are expected. I can walk through the grass outside and they get on my legs. There's tons when you have high organic matter and grow mushrooms' in your garden beds. I use synthetic fertilizer indoors and treat with Bti and NOFLY. I have found larva on a leaf bud under the parafilm. They always find their way inside and I have been experimenting with using a diffuser with lavender oil and geranium that contain linalool to repel them. I always use yellow sticky traps to monitor them as well. I think 92 out of a 100 bought cuttings is not bad. I don't know the health of the trees the cutting are taken from and the lost cuttings came from trees know to have high levels of FMV and fussy.
Can you please do a video on how to take care of pops after they have rooted and started growing? A lot of times I am about to get rooting right but then after transplanting I am losing them.
CO2 thing was always on my mind, I've put 25l bucket to ferment cider, it's actually only water, a bit of apple juice and mostly sugar with cider yeast. From 1kg of sugar should yeast should produce roughly 300-500g of C02. I can always remove a part of fermented alcohol add more sugar syrup to keep fermentation going. Probably should have used mead yeast, it usually ferments longer. Any other options to increase CO2? By the way, a person produces roughly 1kg of CO2 per day.
1. I use the wax from wax melts to dip the tops (real quickly!) about an inch on the tips of cuttings. It keeps them from drying out and they bust through this wax just like expensive parafilm. 2. I quit using rooting hormones because I found no difference in rooting them with or without. The wax melt (wax melt scentsy) I use two kinds (1) cinnamon apple (2) douglas fur pine like a Christmas tree... the wax smell keeps fungus gnats away! For real and they make the house smell good. I think the Lemon works too, but it's very strong in the house! 3. When getting the "fig pop" bags do NOT get the small ones. You need the larger ones (like you show) and that works great. It's almost like the "quart size" fig pops take longer to dry out if there is access to any air flow. 4. There are some species of fig trees that just don't root well from cuttings very easily. Makadonia Dark (is one) and I think Ceilo Stellato is another and maybe Lock's YLH (1957). It's better to air layer or look for young sucker trees from these and get them that way. (Violet de Bordeaux is one that comes to mind). I got some LSU Hollier, and a couple other cuttings and Ross sends extra big cuttings (usually you can get two or more) and they are true to their breeding. My LSU O'Rourke and LSU Tiger have grown so quick in 8A growing season. Thanks Ross! You are definitely the "Fig Boss!" John in NC
Hi Ross what to do after cuttings roots and have green growth should I move them from heat mat or keep it all the time thank you for all the information you give us you are the fig boss
You do not weight soil or dey mixes to know much water to put in it. My 3 first time fig pops died and dried up. Tried with potting mix and vermiculite and by going with the 1/5 of the weight in water the dry mix is like you never even put water in it.. for vermiculite it feels slightly damp but once you put it in a box the water will all condensate on one side of the bag and pretty much just kill the cutting because the cutting is sitting on dry mix... 5 part mix 1 part water. Got confused really and i ended up putting like 40ml of water into my vermiculite bags. When i switched to potting mix the half part rotted out. I cut it and trying to root the other half but i think they done they are all shrivelled up.. you should make a new video or an update clarifying this. You do not weight soil mixes and divide that weight by 5 to find out how much water you need.. dry potting mix or raw ingredients weights next to nothing. I did the 5-1 ratio mix and im just now seeing roots on 20-25 days cutting who have shown no sign of life
Who is mario? I have seen this vinyl blind method used in all sorts of youtube videos for years, for any type of gardening labeling. Same with people cutting up plastic yogurt tubs, or cottage cheese lids, or any other type of throw-away plastic...thriftiness. I don't think that one person can get credit for it all any longer with so many creative ideas out there. So thankful for all of the information Ross provided in this video, aren't you?
If you've been seeing success with the cuttings you purchased from me this past December, let me know in the comments! This video will hopefully improve your success rate even higher.
i did over 100 cuttings, soil, figpop bags costs 10x less then those big pots and take up very little space while growing indoors in January. I doubt i will ever do that many again, so i do not need to invest that much in pots, for just getting them started. now I have found for the money 24oz clear cups are nicer then the bags, and are reusable, methods both work but numbers and space matter. The hollier I got from you is looking good Ross thanks
I'm glad to hear that. Thank you!
Hey Ross, thank you for that videos I think you are the only person to help me out, what shape should a fig plant have, I'm thinking about how to prune mine. For example does my Ronde de bordeaux have like 5 or 6 two feet long branches going straight vertical around the center like a circle. Is that a good shape, or should I cut out some completely? Some of them are growing towards the center at the top, what should I do for that especially?
Lukas, it's hard to give a personalized recommendation without seeing your tree. Send me a photo on my blog.
Thanks, Ross. You just confirmed my method - sticking the cutting into potting mix in a tree pot.
By using the 1/5 weight all the bottom of the soil dried with my heat mat and only like the top 2 inch was wet and had moisture. Decided to switch to 50/50 coconut and vermiculite. Used bit more weight and same thing around the base or where my heat mat touches it it dries but not as bad
I got some cuttings... should I cut the top and bottom to make them fresh for better rooting? They came with wax on the end.... I scored the bottom - are you supposed to score just a small portion? or about 1" on the full diameter of the bottom. I see that someone posted below that the growth pops through the wax, so perhaps I don't. and should I score off any nodes that are under the vermiculite? Also it seems like such a small amount of water. Are we supposed to water them at any point? I'm in 8A GA (formerly 7b) and rooting them indoors - if I get grow lights wont they dry them out?? Using the fig pop technique with vermiculite.
Hi Ross - I noticed that Notorious Fig uses kind of a blended method between fig pops and the 4x9 inch tree pots. He puts the cutting into the tree pot that he's filled with his rooting soil, and then puts the entire tree pot into a plastic bag that he seals around the top of the cutting - leaving some of the cutting exposed outside the top of the plastic bag. He then bottom waters by pouring a little bit of water into the plastic bag, which is absorbed into the bottom of the tree pot in order to provide water to the cutting if/when needed. I thought it was an interesting blend of two approaches.
After discussing the negatives of the fig pop method, someone commented on that video years ago that exact thing. It's amazing what comes up when you share ideas. It evolves into something better.
@@RossRaddi I have been using the method you posted maybe last year. 4x9 inch tree pots with dried rice hulls on top to help keep moisture in, and bottom heat. I had very good luck with that method, but might try the blended method just for fun. Thanks for your videos!
I've been looking to buy some fig trees I live in the state of Florida I was wondering what is the best kind of grow out here but I'd be very interested in picking up some
Hello Ross, another great vid ! I have questions, that I am having a hard time finding information on. Maybe you could help. I live in North West Florida, so I don't have to bring my figs , "inside" for the winter. My questions are : how close together , can I plant my fig trees, in ground, for max production . And the common verities , that need full sun , vs. verities that can handle partial shade , and still produce well. I know that's a lot to ask, but I see you have your trees stacked like cordwood , and I respect your opinion. Thanks for any help.
Randy, that depends on the size that you want to maintain them at. They can get to 15-20 ft easily where you are. I also wouldn't space them 2-3 ft on center like I have them because of rust issues. You need good air flow.
@@RossRaddi Thanks for the reply Ross. I would thinking , maybe 12' to 15' apart, and keep them pruned somewhat .
78F for air temp I assume? what would be the ideal soil temp if I am using a probe?
78F
I got 100 % with the Harrys Crete I got from you. I do clear dixie cups with drain holes perlite in the bottom and coco coir hydrated to field capacity. I cut the lid off once I start to see good roots. I have lost maybe 8 out of a 100. I can't stand to lose any though. I have realize not all cutting are cut equal.
When I lose one seems to be at some transition between the fat roots and the roots turning fibrous. I do notice most the ones I lose are the tip cuttings. I do battle fungus gnats as well so I try to keep things on the dry side.
Keeping things a bit drier will definitely help your success rate.
Those fungus gnats are sure sign of too much water.
@@RossRaddi Living in the south with warm winters and wet spring they are expected. I can walk through the grass outside and they get on my legs. There's tons when you have high organic matter and grow mushrooms' in your garden beds. I use synthetic fertilizer indoors and treat with Bti and NOFLY. I have found larva on a leaf bud under the parafilm. They always find their way inside and I have been experimenting with using a diffuser with lavender oil and geranium that contain linalool to repel them. I always use yellow sticky traps to monitor them as well. I think 92 out of a 100 bought cuttings is not bad. I don't know the health of the trees the cutting are taken from and the lost cuttings came from trees know to have high levels of FMV and fussy.
Recently you said you like the paper towel in zip lock bag method better. Why did you go back to this method?
I like pre rooting thick cuttings before direct potting them. Time to try something new in the fig pop method.
did i miss the weight ratio of water to potting medium? Can't find it in the blog article...
5:1 ratio.
12 oz of vermiculite
2.5 oz of water
I'll have the ratio in the next article.
Can you please do a video on how to take care of pops after they have rooted and started growing? A lot of times I am about to get rooting right but then after transplanting I am losing them.
That's coming next, but it won't be for a bit. I won't be starting my rooting for another couple weeks.
CO2 thing was always on my mind, I've put 25l bucket to ferment cider, it's actually only water, a bit of apple juice and mostly sugar with cider yeast. From 1kg of sugar should yeast should produce roughly 300-500g of C02. I can always remove a part of fermented alcohol add more sugar syrup to keep fermentation going. Probably should have used mead yeast, it usually ferments longer. Any other options to increase CO2? By the way, a person produces roughly 1kg of CO2 per day.
Thanks for the comment. Fermentation is a great way to increase CO2.
1. I use the wax from wax melts to dip the tops (real quickly!) about an inch on the tips of cuttings. It keeps them from drying out and they bust through this wax just like expensive parafilm.
2. I quit using rooting hormones because I found no difference in rooting them with or without. The wax melt (wax melt scentsy) I use two kinds (1) cinnamon apple (2) douglas fur pine like a Christmas tree... the wax smell keeps fungus gnats away! For real and they make the house smell good. I think the Lemon works too, but it's very strong in the house!
3. When getting the "fig pop" bags do NOT get the small ones. You need the larger ones (like you show) and that works great. It's almost like the "quart size" fig pops take longer to dry out if there is access to any air flow.
4. There are some species of fig trees that just don't root well from cuttings very easily. Makadonia Dark (is one) and I think Ceilo Stellato is another and maybe Lock's YLH (1957). It's better to air layer or look for young sucker trees from these and get them that way. (Violet de Bordeaux is one that comes to mind).
I got some LSU Hollier, and a couple other cuttings and Ross sends extra big cuttings (usually you can get two or more) and they are true to their breeding. My LSU O'Rourke and LSU Tiger have grown so quick in 8A growing season.
Thanks Ross! You are definitely the "Fig Boss!"
John in NC
Thank you for sharing, John.
Hi Ross what to do after cuttings roots and have green growth should I move them from heat mat or keep it all the time thank you for all the information you give us you are the fig boss
Keep the soil temp at 78F, Linda.
You do not weight soil or dey mixes to know much water to put in it. My 3 first time fig pops died and dried up. Tried with potting mix and vermiculite and by going with the 1/5 of the weight in water the dry mix is like you never even put water in it.. for vermiculite it feels slightly damp but once you put it in a box the water will all condensate on one side of the bag and pretty much just kill the cutting because the cutting is sitting on dry mix... 5 part mix 1 part water. Got confused really and i ended up putting like 40ml of water into my vermiculite bags. When i switched to potting mix the half part rotted out. I cut it and trying to root the other half but i think they done they are all shrivelled up.. you should make a new video or an update clarifying this. You do not weight soil mixes and divide that weight by 5 to find out how much water you need.. dry potting mix or raw ingredients weights next to nothing. I did the 5-1 ratio mix and im just now seeing roots on 20-25 days cutting who have shown no sign of life
love it thanks boss!
Curious how this method worked out for you?
Why wouldn't you give credit to Mario for showing you the vinyl blind idea?
Have I given him credit in the past?
@@RossRaddi yes you definitely have.
Who is mario? I have seen this vinyl blind method used in all sorts of youtube videos for years, for any type of gardening labeling. Same with people cutting up plastic yogurt tubs, or cottage cheese lids, or any other type of throw-away plastic...thriftiness. I don't think that one person can get credit for it all any longer with so many creative ideas out there. So thankful for all of the information Ross provided in this video, aren't you?