I’m a little late to the party, but had to repeat what many other posters have said in the comments...this is probably the best video on wiring a trailer I’ve watched! I’m building a small camper from an old, rusty trailer. I know verrrrrrrry little about any of it, so have been doing research for the past year and a half. I’m good on the sanding, grinding, painting, etc., but your videos were so much help to me in the axle/wiring categories, so I had to say thank you for taking the time to make and share these videos. You’re a really good teacher, and I was finally able to understand how and why to do these things. Keep it up 👍
Thanks so much for your time to explain step by step to connecting all the trailer wiring , this’s one of the videos much better and detailed. Now my trailer is very lightning. god bless you and I will keep watching you in another video , again I’m really apréciate .
This is the BEST "You Can Do It" video I have had the pleasure to watch!! The download was highly beneficial!!! If this old gal can wire a trailer after watching your video, you know it is good!!
This has got to be the best explained trailer light setup video on the internet. Thank you it was very helpful! Makes total sense to just run the wires down one side and terminate as needed, instead of splitting them and running brown and yellow down the driver side additionally. I'm dealing with a patch job and this will help me clean in up in an instant! Thanks for taking the time to explain
Thank you very much, this has been extremely helpful. I always wondered how I was suppose to have a brown wire to each light when there is only one brown wire. But after seeing how you did this the mystery is solved. Thanks again
+Cory McGUCKIN It is a boat trailer. I bought it for $750.00 boat motor and trailer. Rats chewed up the wires. First time I ever had to wire a trailer. I also wired my Kia using your wiring diagram and straight forward easy to follow instructions. I am set my friend. It all works and we are headed to the lake. Thanks again.
+Cory McGUCKIN My trailer was custom designed by my father 30 years ago. I believe he had it welded by a man that worked for him. I don't have the exact cost, and would imagine it would be extremely irrelevant. It is made primarily of 2" Square tubing, 1" Angle, a couple of small flat stock pieces and some form of a "C Channel for the fenders. The rough dimensions of the platform I believe are 4'x6'. Part 1 and Part 4 of this series pretty well shows the layout. The part I like the best are the Rail Pockets. Part 4 shows how I used them to make custom removable Rails. The Rail Pockets are also the 2" tubing mounted vertically with a cap (with a hole) welded on the bottom.
+UCanDoIt2 My boat and trailer was manufacture in 1959. The guy I bought it from took real good care of it. Boat is like new, trailer in fairly good condition. No boats like this anymore. It is thick aluminum and is built like a tank. Made by Texas Maid. Trailer is very well made as well and you can break it in the middle to launch the boat off a rocky shore were no boat ramp is in sight. 15 horse Evenrude, well maintained as well. Nice to get my wires replaced and the boat back in the water.
This is one of the best instructional video's I've seen. You described it with simplicity and exactly how it should go. You make a very good instructor
Thank you kindly for the entire video. It was very well done & I particularly appreciated how clearly you articulated the function of the frame of the trailer itself as the ground conductor. It was helpful to see your attention to insuring a solid connection between the 'ground-strip'/mounting bolt within the taillight assembly & the bare metal inside the holes on the recently repainted brackets. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge & technique.👍
Mr. Dowling, Thank you for taking the time to write such a great compliment! I appreciate your kind words. This was a fun project and always nice to know that my trailer is now ready to roll for the next many years! If you are performing a similar update, I wish you the best! Thanks again.
Great video. Wired my trailer all up like you did. Connected wiring to my truck to see if everything worked. Had running lights, turn signals worked perfect, but when I pressed the brake the tail lights on the trailer would go off. This stumped me for quite awhile. Came back to your video and realized that I didn't have the trailer hooked to the hitch on the truck. Hooked it on an BAM....worked like a charm. Must have to ground to the truck by way of hitch. Anyways thank-you for the very informative video. Keep up the great work.
+SuperCyril2 That is so freakin' awesome!!! Congrats for sticking with it and figuring it out. Gives you that accomplished feeling when its all said and done! Thanks for watching!
Mine goes out when I am hooked to the hitch when I let off the brake the running lights come back on. I have several trailers , all of them have problems. I just tell the cops it was working fine when I left.😂
I just rebuilt my 8ft utility trailer, except for the new wiring to the taillights. The video was perfect and answered all my questions. Best of the best. Thank you.
Great video well explained, now heading outside to rewire my lights the right way, hopefully you got a video on adding marker lights and couple strobe lights on back corners of trailer , thanks for sharing your knowledge GREAT JOB.
Best video I've seen on this, my dad has been working and hasn't had time to do the lights. This video right here answered my questions and absolutely made it seem like a peice of cake so I can help him out without worry of messing it up. No need for soldiering and other stuff I've seen suggested by videos, since they are cheap lights in case they break. Excellent video!
I have NEVER had a trailer that provided a good chassis ground. During trouble-shooting of trailer light issues I have found that the problem is usually caused by a bad ground. It is so easy to run a wire from the white wire on the harness to each light. This will give each light fixture a good ground and give you MUCH more reliable trailer lights.
Never, is an extremely strong statement. Most trailers are setup this way by design. The lights that are currently available are setup for chassis ground. It is a very standard practice and electrically accepted practice. You are more than welcome to wire yours another way. I know that some don’t even use the white wire from the vehicle harness. They rely on the vehicle chassis ground to be passed through the ball: hitch connection. Best of luck with yours.
Thank you for the video. I watched all of it and because of a tip with the grounding of each light, I replaced the lights, made sure ground was metal to metal and it solved my problem. Good job!
silverd123 It makes me very happy that you were able to figure out your issues. Thanks for letting me know. It made me smile. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for the info! All I really needed to know was what color wore goes to what side, but I got so much more inspiration. Been dragging around my ratty old trailer with a ratty old truck for a few years without lighting (Rural Wisconsin nobody much cares} I finally bought a new vehicle with a tow light harness built in and I thought I'd rewire the trailer. Now I'm inspired to blast repaint and rebuild it to make it look nice next to my new truck. Nice job on your trailer too!
I appreciate the feedback and tickled about the inspiration. You will be much happier when it all works.... being pulled around by the shiny new vehicle!!! Mike.
I have a 5x8 utility trailer. I used the RV 7 to wire the little trailer for one reason, the battery 12 volt connection. I installed a weatherproof 12 volt outlet on the trailer to run a little air compressor for the utv I haul on it and I also have a junction to that has switches and led flood light for loading and unloading at night. You should try it out since most vehicles come from factory with the rv 7 plug now. Be a good instructional. Idea for everyone. Another great video bud. Keep it up.
I believe I mention side lights and how to connect them if you have them. My trailer does not have them. They would be connected to the Brown wire for +12V and grounded to the trailer metal. Cheers. Mike.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike yep you did explain very well on how to install side lights. The harbor freight folding trailer loses ground cause its bolted together and I endend up having to add a jumper ground white wire from the frame on the other side of the rail so it wont lose continuitycof the ground. Otherwise it makes the lights flicker..lol..
Thanks for your video and explaining the wiring inside the housing. I just mounted and ran wire for my light for the first time. I used a kit from Walmart that doesn't have a universal plug. The plug 4 flat with 5 wires and the connector is square. My problem was I mounted a metal bracket to hold the lights on the wood frame so I wasn't getting a ground. Thanks for explaining the wiring inside the light housing. I think what I will do is installed a ground wire from the frame to the brackets on each light to fix the ground issues. And also change the connector on the end to a standard one.👍👍👍👍👍 New Sub also.
holy shit.....FINALLY .....someone who can put all this mumbo jumbo clearly....wtf happened to old school lights you just matched the colors if the wires....and boom....we're thru....thank you dude for video.....defiantly explained the neg. ground wiring portion
Good video, I am almost done restoring an old but still in good shape trailer. I'm glad I watched this video being a 30 year electrician I would have drove myself nuts with the wiring. Not using the green as a ground would have had me trouble shooting for days.
OK.... That is extremely funny! As I was reading, I was wondering where you were going after you mentioned your electrician credentials!!!!! I thought I was in trouble! Now that I think about it... WHITE as the ground is not common for the auto industry. Wonder why they threw that at us!!!! Still chuckling! Thanks!
good video, the only thing I don't agree with is putting the ground under the trailer, because if you ever have issues, one of the first things you need to check is the ground. like I said, good video , and clean trailer.
I'm re-wiring and restoring an early 1950s Hanson Love Bug trailer and just wanted to say thank you for putting this video together!!! I'm by no means an electrician and this video was really helpful for me. Thanks!!
Thanks for the feedback. Most people have issues with Grounding. If you understand how the grounding works, you will avoid many "Odd" issues. Good luck with your project!
It is really simple and you broke that down real nice. Kinda like the wizard of OZ behind the curtain, no big deal really. I prefer to solder and heat shrink all the joints as they last way longer. But the frustrating part now is the ultra thin wire that these harnesses are made from, it was no like this 30 years ago before everything got so "cheapened". I might go back to the old trick of using a 16 gauge extension cord and just wrap some colored electrical tape on the critical areas to show the proper color.
Thank you for your feedback. I agree, that solder and heat shrink is a great option and if that fits your need, go for it. I happen to loan the trailer to a co-worker and he broke a light and was able to simply replace it. So in my case it served it's purpose. To be honest, my lights are not well protected and I seem to go through them. Need to solve that first. Mike
Thanks for sharing this. Very well done, you should be proud of your work. You saved a lot of us a lot of hassle, both when wiring, and during the years of use to come!
Great video!!! I already understood the basics. I just needed the Wiring Diagram and you provided an easy to understand and easy to print version. Thank you so much for your extra effort to produce a great video.
The diagram indicates that each Light needs to be ground to the trailer. In the case of my lights.... they use the mounting bolts as their ground to the trailer. So in theory, instead of a White Wire, I'm using the mounting bolts. Does that makes sense. And great question/observation... By the way! Mike
When possible I recommend avoiding the 'frame ground' method and just running the ground to all the lights. It can be a little more work sometimes, but corroded ground attachments are the most common lighting problem I see on trailers. This may not be the case in areas without road salt, but the only trailer I've had that didn't eventually have trouble with a bare metal ground corroding was aluminum. If ever working on a larger trailer with more market lights, brakes, etc., definitely get one of the inexpensive, simple junction boxes. Makes everything very simple and organized.
That sounds like great advice from someone with real life experience. To confirm what you mean: you're essentially using the vehicle as the ground vs trailer, correct? As in, the white wire from the truck runs all the way to the lights essentially. Reason I ask, is I've seen some people using a waterproof junction box, but still have a single ground coming out of the box and to the trailer frame - I guess it's only one ground to check/maintain, but still seems easier to follow your advice and just have the ground on the vehicle itself.
Thanks for the good video, very helpful. Just another thought--- To assure a good ground for the actual light housings...you may want to make the ground through the lock washer and bare metal on the mounting "flange" part of the trailer, then seal it off with RTV silicone or similar to prevent moisture from deteriorating the mechanical connection to ground. this eliminates the need for any "extra" copper wire around the mounting stud. It's a superior connection to ground that way.
Trailers with Brakes require a different (I believe 5 Pin) connectors. That is not covered in this video, but I assume there are other videos that focus on that configuration. Cheers!
Excellent video, very helpful for when I will be re wiring my trailer, not having a floor on your trailer makes it easy to run wires, not looking forward to having to go under my trailer to run all the wires and connect ground.
I am only getting running lights on my trailer when my vehicle’s running lights are on, but no trailer turn signals. Turn signals on trailer work fine when running lights are off.
good clear camera focus, appropriate fast forwarding after an excellent explanation, liked the music. I don't yet know what else you have on your channel but I'm subscribing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in such a user friendly way.
Thanks. I needed to rewire my boat trailer and couldn't figure out how a 4 wire kit would work. I knew the brown wire was used for both sides and I was thinking of putting a 3 way connector in and running separate leads down both sides, which I still think would work. I've got running lights on both sides and 3 smaller lights at the back between the brake lights so lots of splicing. Your video answered some questions about how the system works. Thanks again.
I believe that using 'twist cap' style connectors (how you connected the lights) is not recommended for outdoor applications. The wire is not sealed off from the environment and will heavily oxidize. I also know this because I recently had to completely rewire a trailer that we originally wired up with T-connectors and twist-cap connectors - the exposed wire meant that the ENTIRE length of wire oxidized and turned black - I was blown away seeing black wire when tapping into wire which was uninterrupted for 4-5m on either side of my cut! For an easy disconnect connections I think using a 'weatherpak' sealed connector is best. They also make a few other types of waterproof connectors like bullet connectors.
I'm having problems grounding the taillight prongs, due to over-sized holes. I had the testing go good then when I finalized the wiring, they wouldn't work. So I will have to try the wrapping wire around the bolt technique to see if they will ground. Thanks for the tip.
Sounds like you have it under control! It is cool that while you are having a problem, it sounds like you are right on top of the solution! Have fun with it!!!!
Thank you Sir! Not sure about the nail as about 6 months after this video, I did replace the tires as they were 15 years old and I did not trust them with the heavier loads. Cheers!
My true reward is getting uplifting comments like yours. Thank you for taking the time to leave your well received message. Hope the information helps you on your project!
+Caza Y Pesca I think I understand what you are talking about. Let's see if I can explain what you need to do. At the 18:12 point in my video, I show the inside of the light. You will need to open yours and determine 3 things... 1) since there is only two wires, I assume that your Ground will be done using the mounting bolts just like mine. ( you need to see if this is the case). 2) Determine which one of the wires goes to your Bright element. In my case, since my light fixture also has a side light bulb. I knew that the wire that touched both the side bulb and the rear bulb, was my Turn Signal / Brake (bright element). This was the Brown wire of my fixture. This Brown wire will need to connect to the harness Green wire for the Passenger side. This Brown wire will need to connect to the harness Yellow wire for the Driver side. 3) The fixture wire that goes to the dim element, in my case the one that only went to the rear bulb, (green) will need to connect to the Brown wire of the harness. You can temporarily make these connections and test prior to making them more permanent. Good luck!
Pinned by bearcreekhaven2 This posting is best seen. Completed my wiring project; couldn't have done it so easily if not for these excellent step-by-step video/audio directions from an expert. Kudos.
Thanks I had A bad Ground causing a little feedback in the Directional Signals.The running lights were fine STOP fine however either left and or right signal caused the Running lights to give e slight twang of flashing on all running lights whenever I used the Turn signals very very faint but it was present . So I went back and cleaned up and got rid of the butt connectors soldered them and heat shrunk them sanded down the Grounds and no more feedback Probably could have just done the Butt Connectors again but I was told I will only have to go thru this again in 5 years so I went the extra bit and only burned myself a little with the soldering ha ha however I forgot how the wires went back together SO the Video Saved the Day THANK YOU!
Really great instructions, very detail very precise. My only question is why did it pop up when I was looking for instructions to wire the plug into the wiring for my 1987 Ranger not the trailer?
Nice video. They do make a rubber insulated wire clamp to fasten the wire to things versus an EMT clamp than could chafe the wire. Also anywhere a wire is run next to the edge of anything metal or through a hole use a grommet. Many factory trailers don't do this and the wiring gets cut then you have no working lights. Just a couple tips for the viewers.
+2 AM Excellent point on the chafing! I was trying to avoid the chafing by looping the wire around the clamps to reduce the amount of movement/chatter. But I really like your suggestion. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent video, thank you for the clear explanations - I learned several things, which will help me as I have several trailers to be re-wired. I've often seen where the wire is ran through wire loom in between light fixtures, is this to prevent road damage to the wiring? I often drive on gravel roads, so I'm wondering if I should do exactly as you have done, but just add the wire loom for protection?
thank you, I appreciate your help. I took off the brackets that mount the rear lights to the frame and drilled off the paint on the inside of the holes. I reassembled and now the lights work, blinkers work, but no break lights. I also called Harbor Freight and they said that the ground wire is inside the light and attached to a screw in the back. I took it apart but could not find said wire. But at least I have some working lights, just wish the break lights worked. I love the video, thank you.
I'm rewiring a small trailer that carries my lawn mower tomorrow. It has the side lights that also echoed the turn signals, but I'm leaning toward your setup with the side lights as markers only.
I’m a little late to the party, but had to repeat what many other posters have said in the comments...this is probably the best video on wiring a trailer I’ve watched! I’m building a small camper from an old, rusty trailer. I know verrrrrrrry little about any of it, so have been doing research for the past year and a half. I’m good on the sanding, grinding, painting, etc., but your videos were so much help to me in the axle/wiring categories, so I had to say thank you for taking the time to make and share these videos. You’re a really good teacher, and I was finally able to understand how and why to do these things. Keep it up 👍
Better late than never! Thank you for taking to time to leave this comment. Very glad you found the video useful! Have fun with your project!!!!!
I 2nd what she said - perfect comment...Thanks to you both!
piscean3679 u
Good job how is that trailer working out??
This was the first time ANYBODY actually showed a wiring diagram that works and makes since! Thank You
***** Thank you very much for the feedback. So glad that it proved useful for you! Good luck with your project.
8 years later and you're still helping people out. Great video, probably the best there is for 4-wire basics. Thank you for doing this!
Great to hear that you found some good information in it. Cheers to you Sir! Mike
Thanks so much for your time to explain step by step to connecting all the trailer wiring , this’s one of the videos much better and detailed. Now my trailer is very lightning. god bless you and I will keep watching you in another video , again I’m really apréciate .
Very glad that you found it useful and that you have solved your problems. Cheers! Mike
This is the BEST "You Can Do It" video I have had the pleasure to watch!! The download was highly beneficial!!! If this old gal can wire a trailer after watching your video, you know it is good!!
Star Child lander Very glad that you found it useful!!!!!
great ,it is nice to have it simplified
Glad you found value in the video. And I agree, when you simplify it, there is not much to it. Hope it helps you with your project! Mike
Of all the trailer wiring videos, your description was by far the most direct, and clear
I appreciate the feedback. Hope it helped you get back on the road! Cheers... Mike
This has got to be the best explained trailer light setup video on the internet. Thank you it was very helpful! Makes total sense to just run the wires down one side and terminate as needed, instead of splitting them and running brown and yellow down the driver side additionally. I'm dealing with a patch job and this will help me clean in up in an instant! Thanks for taking the time to explain
Thank you for the great compliment and glad that you found it useful. Cheers to you and have fun with your project! Mike
Thank you very much, this has been extremely helpful. I always wondered how I was suppose to have a brown wire to each light when there is only one brown wire. But after seeing how you did this the mystery is solved. Thanks again
Glad you found it useful!!! Cheers. Mike
Just a word to let you know, that your hard work that you put into this video is still helping people today. Thank You.
I appreciate the great feedback. Glad you found it useful! Mike
Got my trailer wired, 1 hour. Couldn't have done it without you my friend.
+Marvin Cline ... That is way too cool! Really neat when your done and it just works.
+Cory McGUCKIN It is a boat trailer. I bought it for $750.00 boat motor and trailer. Rats chewed up the wires. First time I ever had to wire a trailer. I also wired my Kia using your wiring diagram and straight forward easy to follow instructions. I am set my friend. It all works and we are headed to the lake. Thanks again.
+Cory McGUCKIN My trailer was custom designed by my father 30 years ago. I believe he had it welded by a man that worked for him. I don't have the exact cost, and would imagine it would be extremely irrelevant. It is made primarily of 2" Square tubing, 1" Angle, a couple of small flat stock pieces and some form of a "C Channel for the fenders. The rough dimensions of the platform I believe are 4'x6'. Part 1 and Part 4 of this series pretty well shows the layout. The part I like the best are the Rail Pockets. Part 4 shows how I used them to make custom removable Rails. The Rail Pockets are also the 2" tubing mounted vertically with a cap (with a hole) welded on the bottom.
+UCanDoIt2 My boat and trailer was manufacture in 1959. The guy I bought it from took real good care of it. Boat is like new, trailer in fairly good condition. No boats like this anymore. It is thick aluminum and is built like a tank. Made by Texas Maid. Trailer is very well made as well and you can break it in the middle to launch the boat off a rocky shore were no boat ramp is in sight. 15 horse Evenrude, well maintained as well. Nice to get my wires replaced and the boat back in the water.
This is one of the best instructional video's I've seen. You described it with simplicity and exactly how it should go. You make a very good instructor
+Mike & June Thank you for the feedback. It is very encouraging.
Perfect, Just what I needed, Thanks No telling how many hours you just saved me.
Glad it helped. Motor-on! Mike
Thank you kindly for the entire video. It was very well done & I particularly appreciated how clearly you articulated the function of the frame of the trailer itself as the ground conductor. It was helpful to see your attention to insuring a solid connection between the 'ground-strip'/mounting bolt within the taillight assembly & the bare metal inside the holes on the recently repainted brackets.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge & technique.👍
Mr. Dowling, Thank you for taking the time to write such a great compliment! I appreciate your kind words. This was a fun project and always nice to know that my trailer is now ready to roll for the next many years! If you are performing a similar update, I wish you the best! Thanks again.
Well done! I’ve been towing one type of trailer or another for the past 30 years, and you’re the only one who’s made sense of it all. Many thanks!
Thank you for the great feedback. Glad the information was helpful. Cheers.... Mike
Really liked your methodical approach to this project. Kudos, sir!
Thank you Sir! I appreciate the feedback and hope it helps you. Mike.
This was a great step by step approach to rewiring a 4x8 trailer. I really appreciate the explanations as well.
Glad you found it useful Carl. Thanks for the feedback!!
Great video. Wired my trailer all up like you did. Connected wiring to my truck to see if everything worked. Had running lights, turn signals worked perfect, but when I pressed the brake the tail lights on the trailer would go off. This stumped me for quite awhile. Came back to your video and realized that I didn't have the trailer hooked to the hitch on the truck. Hooked it on an BAM....worked like a charm. Must have to ground to the truck by way of hitch. Anyways thank-you for the very informative video. Keep up the great work.
+SuperCyril2 That is so freakin' awesome!!! Congrats for sticking with it and figuring it out. Gives you that accomplished feeling when its all said and done! Thanks for watching!
Mine goes out when I am hooked to the hitch when I let off the brake the running lights come back on. I have several trailers , all of them have problems. I just tell the cops it was working fine when I left.😂
This is by far the best and most solid job I have seen.
Thank you Daniel! Cheers.
Seriously best wiring video. Thanks for the step by step. I’m electrical ignorant and you made me look smart.
Sometimes when you breakdown wiring into smaller parts... it removes all the hurdles. Glad you were successful! Cheers
a great help, since i bought an old trailer that i need to drive 900 miles... best video on u tube.! many thanks. off to buy some small wire nuts..
Sweet! Not a difficult job if you have the right information. Cheers and have fun!
I just rebuilt my 8ft utility trailer, except for the new wiring to the taillights. The video was perfect and answered all my questions. Best of the best. Thank you.
Thank you Sir! Glad that you found it useful and that you are back on the road with your trailer. Cheers!!!!
how do I test my trailor plug
The perfect tutorial. Just re wired a snowmobile trailer, and this video answered every single question I had. Thank you!!!
Awesome! Glad to know your trailer is back up and running. Cheers!
Great video well explained, now heading outside to rewire my lights the right way, hopefully you got a video on adding marker lights and couple strobe lights on back corners of trailer , thanks for sharing your knowledge GREAT JOB.
Thank you Sir! Best of luck with your project!
Best video I've seen on this, my dad has been working and hasn't had time to do the lights. This video right here answered my questions and absolutely made it seem like a peice of cake so I can help him out without worry of messing it up. No need for soldiering and other stuff I've seen suggested by videos, since they are cheap lights in case they break. Excellent video!
I have NEVER had a trailer that provided a good chassis ground. During trouble-shooting of trailer light issues I have found that the problem is usually caused by a bad ground. It is so easy to run a wire from the white wire on the harness to each light. This will give each light fixture a good ground and give you MUCH more reliable trailer lights.
Never, is an extremely strong statement. Most trailers are setup this way by design. The lights that are currently available are setup for chassis ground. It is a very standard practice and electrically accepted practice. You are more than welcome to wire yours another way. I know that some don’t even use the white wire from the vehicle harness. They rely on the vehicle chassis ground to be passed through the ball: hitch connection. Best of luck with yours.
Thank you for the video. I watched all of it and because of a tip with the grounding of each light, I replaced the lights, made sure ground was metal to metal and it solved my problem. Good job!
silverd123 It makes me very happy that you were able to figure out your issues. Thanks for letting me know. It made me smile. Good luck with your project!
Got to say this was the best how to video for rewiring trailer lights.
I greatly appreciate the feedback!!!! Hope your stringer is full after your next fishing outing!!!! Cheers!
Thanks for the info! All I really needed to know was what color wore goes to what side, but I got so much more inspiration. Been dragging around my ratty old trailer with a ratty old truck for a few years without lighting (Rural Wisconsin nobody much cares} I finally bought a new vehicle with a tow light harness built in and I thought I'd rewire the trailer. Now I'm inspired to blast repaint and rebuild it to make it look nice next to my new truck. Nice job on your trailer too!
I appreciate the feedback and tickled about the inspiration. You will be much happier when it all works.... being pulled around by the shiny new vehicle!!! Mike.
I have a 5x8 utility trailer. I used the RV 7 to wire the little trailer for one reason, the battery 12 volt connection. I installed a weatherproof 12 volt outlet on the trailer to run a little air compressor for the utv I haul on it and I also have a junction to that has switches and led flood light for loading and unloading at night. You should try it out since most vehicles come from factory with the rv 7 plug now. Be a good instructional. Idea for everyone. Another great video bud. Keep it up.
That is an excellent idea. Thank for sharing and watching!!!!!
I I missed what your side lights would of looked like . but very informative video and you show a good diagram! Thanks!
I believe I mention side lights and how to connect them if you have them. My trailer does not have them. They would be connected to the Brown wire for +12V and grounded to the trailer metal. Cheers. Mike.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike yep you did explain very well on how to install side lights. The harbor freight folding trailer loses ground cause its bolted together and I endend up having to add a jumper ground white wire from the frame on the other side of the rail so it wont lose continuitycof the ground. Otherwise it makes the lights flicker..lol..
Thanks for your video and explaining the wiring inside the housing.
I just mounted and ran wire for my light for the first time. I used a kit from Walmart that doesn't have a universal plug. The plug 4 flat with 5 wires and the connector is square.
My problem was I mounted a metal bracket to hold the lights on the wood frame so I wasn't getting a ground. Thanks for explaining the wiring inside the light housing.
I think what I will do is installed a ground wire from the frame to the brackets on each light to fix the ground issues. And also change the connector on the end to a standard one.👍👍👍👍👍 New Sub also.
His Image That sounds like a great solution on your need for grounding those lights. Cheers Mike.
Great detailed video! Installed this on my jeep with trailer. Thanks for the video.
Glad you found it useful and that you are up and running!
holy shit.....FINALLY .....someone who can put all this mumbo jumbo clearly....wtf happened to old school lights you just matched the colors if the wires....and boom....we're thru....thank you dude for video.....defiantly explained the neg. ground wiring portion
Thanks Man....fixed my trailer in about 15 minutes thanks to you. You are awesome.
Glad it helped! Always good to hear it helped someone out!!!!
Good video, I am almost done restoring an old but still in good shape trailer. I'm glad I watched this video being a 30 year electrician I would have drove myself nuts with the wiring. Not using the green as a ground would have had me trouble shooting for days.
OK.... That is extremely funny! As I was reading, I was wondering where you were going after you mentioned your electrician credentials!!!!! I thought I was in trouble! Now that I think about it... WHITE as the ground is not common for the auto industry. Wonder why they threw that at us!!!! Still chuckling! Thanks!
good video, the only thing I don't agree with is putting the ground under the trailer, because if you ever have issues, one of the first things you need to check is the ground. like I said, good video , and clean trailer.
I'm re-wiring and restoring an early 1950s Hanson Love Bug trailer and just wanted to say thank you for putting this video together!!! I'm by no means an electrician and this video was really helpful for me. Thanks!!
Awesome!!!! Thanks for the feedback and glad it helped. Cheers!
I'll be wiring my trailer next week. Really needed this. Very clear instructions. Thank You very much!
Thanks for the feedback. Most people have issues with Grounding. If you understand how the grounding works, you will avoid many "Odd" issues. Good luck with your project!
Great video. Got my trailer wired today with your help. Thanks
Brad M that is great news!!!! Cheers
Grounding to trailer now makes sense when thinking in terms of a "circuit". Thanks for explanation and excellent video
It is really simple and you broke that down real nice. Kinda like the wizard of OZ behind the curtain, no big deal really. I prefer to solder and heat shrink all the joints as they last way longer. But the frustrating part now is the ultra thin wire that these harnesses are made from, it was no like this 30 years ago before everything got so "cheapened". I might go back to the old trick of using a 16 gauge extension cord and just wrap some colored electrical tape on the critical areas to show the proper color.
Thank you for your feedback. I agree, that solder and heat shrink is a great option and if that fits your need, go for it. I happen to loan the trailer to a co-worker and he broke a light and was able to simply replace it. So in my case it served it's purpose. To be honest, my lights are not well protected and I seem to go through them. Need to solve that first. Mike
Excellent explanation of proper utility trailer wiring and installation, with diagrams and real-time install. Thank you.
Glad you found it useful James. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for sharing this. Very well done, you should be proud of your work. You saved a lot of us a lot of hassle, both when wiring, and during the years of use to come!
Thank you for this comment! I am glad that you fund it useful. Cheers! Mike
Thank you very much. Your video helped me understand the wiring concept. 👍
Great video!!! I already understood the basics. I just needed the Wiring Diagram and you provided an easy to understand and easy to print version. Thank you so much for your extra effort to produce a great video.
I appreciate the feedback. Hope you're back trailering soon! Cheers!!
Why didn't you have a WHITE wire to ground at each of the rear most lights like is indicated in your diagram at 2:41 ?
The diagram indicates that each Light needs to be ground to the trailer. In the case of my lights.... they use the mounting bolts as their ground to the trailer. So in theory, instead of a White Wire, I'm using the mounting bolts. Does that makes sense. And great question/observation... By the way! Mike
Excelente video well explained very clear and help me find my problem in connections in my towing trailer, thanks for sharing and regards.
Glad you enjoyed and found it useful. Cheers! Mike
When possible I recommend avoiding the 'frame ground' method and just running the ground to all the lights. It can be a little more work sometimes, but corroded ground attachments are the most common lighting problem I see on trailers. This may not be the case in areas without road salt, but the only trailer I've had that didn't eventually have trouble with a bare metal ground corroding was aluminum. If ever working on a larger trailer with more market lights, brakes, etc., definitely get one of the inexpensive, simple junction boxes. Makes everything very simple and organized.
That sounds like great advice from someone with real life experience. To confirm what you mean: you're essentially using the vehicle as the ground vs trailer, correct? As in, the white wire from the truck runs all the way to the lights essentially. Reason I ask, is I've seen some people using a waterproof junction box, but still have a single ground coming out of the box and to the trailer frame - I guess it's only one ground to check/maintain, but still seems easier to follow your advice and just have the ground on the vehicle itself.
Thanks for the good video, very helpful. Just another thought--- To assure a good ground for the actual light housings...you may want to make the ground through the lock washer and bare metal on the mounting "flange" part of the trailer, then seal it off with RTV silicone or similar to prevent moisture from deteriorating the mechanical connection to ground. this eliminates the need for any "extra" copper wire around the mounting stud. It's a superior connection to ground that way.
Very good suggestion! Cheers... Mike!
Thank you for this DIY video. Three people tried to help but couldn't. I'll send them here. Had been trying to figure it out for 3 months now.
Terry Stevens Glad it helped and good luck with your project!
Probably the best video on wiring a trailer. Great job, thanks.
Thank you sir! Good luck with your project!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike what about trailers with breaks
Trailers with Brakes require a different (I believe 5 Pin) connectors. That is not covered in this video, but I assume there are other videos that focus on that configuration. Cheers!
Excellent video, very helpful for when I will be re wiring my trailer, not having a floor on your trailer makes it easy to run wires, not looking forward to having to go under my trailer to run all the wires and connect ground.
Yea, crawling under yours will add some complexity. Best of luck! Cheers!
I am only getting running lights on my trailer when my vehicle’s running lights are on, but no trailer turn signals. Turn signals on trailer work fine when running lights are off.
Could be a weak ground. Try to add an additional temporary ground to see if that corrects it.
I see that only one screw post (of two) is connected for each tailight. Could this be the culprit?
And thank you! Great video.
So far you are the only person has something to tell, good job you are helpfull.
Thank you and glad that it sounds you found the information that you needed.
from where you got the wire, I have 3 trailers 24,16,10
@@thetruth8958 I bought my wire either form Wal-Mart or an Auto Parts store.
good clear camera focus, appropriate fast forwarding after an excellent explanation, liked the music. I don't yet know what else you have on your channel but I'm subscribing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge in such a user friendly way.
Awesome! I appreciated this feedback. This was a great little project and the trailer still serves me well. Cheers Mike!
Great job on step by step utility trailer wiring! Thank U so much!!!!
Glad it appears to have been useful to you. Best of luck with your project!!!
really great instructional video. good job. appreciate the effort.
Thank you Sir! Cheers... Mike
Very detailed info. Need more youtube like this. Thanks its a no-brainer.
Thank you sir! Good luck with your project!
Thanks. I needed to rewire my boat trailer and couldn't figure out how a 4 wire kit would work. I knew the brown wire was used for both sides and I was thinking of putting a 3 way connector in and running separate leads down both sides, which I still think would work. I've got running lights on both sides and 3 smaller lights at the back between the brake lights so lots of splicing. Your video answered some questions about how the system works. Thanks again.
That is great news that you have figured it out!!!! Thanks for the feedback and enjoy the boat!
Good video, easy to follow.
Thank you! Best of luck with your project!
thanks for letting me know that the lights have to touch the metal of the trailer to work. Didn't know what I did wrong, but works great now. thanks
Awesome! Yep... In this case the metal of your trailer is a part of the Grounding system. Sounds like you have yours working! Cheers!!!!
Thank you, sir.The best instructional video so far on the tube. I'll try it today.
Awesome! Glad you found it useful... Cheers!
Very well explained and shown. I know it will help me tomorrow redoing my lights. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, halfway through rewriting my trailer I was scratching my head, questions answered and explained well here thank you 👍🏻
Glad you're back on the road!!! Cheers... Mike!
I believe that using 'twist cap' style connectors (how you connected the lights) is not recommended for outdoor applications. The wire is not sealed off from the environment and will heavily oxidize. I also know this because I recently had to completely rewire a trailer that we originally wired up with T-connectors and twist-cap connectors - the exposed wire meant that the ENTIRE length of wire oxidized and turned black - I was blown away seeing black wire when tapping into wire which was uninterrupted for 4-5m on either side of my cut! For an easy disconnect connections I think using a 'weatherpak' sealed connector is best. They also make a few other types of waterproof connectors like bullet connectors.
Thanks so much you save my trip, your explanation was so simple to understand. Thanks againg
Very happy that it was such a help! Glad to hear that you are back on the road. Cheers!
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. It helped greatly!
Glad you found it useful!!!! Cheers!
I'm having problems grounding the taillight prongs, due to over-sized holes. I had the testing go good then when I finalized the wiring, they wouldn't work.
So I will have to try the wrapping wire around the bolt technique to see if they will ground. Thanks for the tip.
Sounds like you have it under control! It is cool that while you are having a problem, it sounds like you are right on top of the solution! Have fun with it!!!!
Yeah, I'll try it tomorrow, and hope it works. It definitely has been a learning curve. Cheers!
Best video ever, Thank you for your time to post ! By the way it looked like the R tire had a nail in it !
Thank you Sir! Not sure about the nail as about 6 months after this video, I did replace the tires as they were 15 years old and I did not trust them with the heavier loads. Cheers!
I followed the instructions and got it right the first time. Thanks
That sounds fantastic Thomas! Thanks for watching and glad that it helped and it sounds like your back in the road! Thanks for the feedback!
Sheesh!! Strait to the point👍🏻 great video
Hope it helped you get back on the road.
Very Good Video! Thank you, You were certainly cut out for teaching people. Explained and demonstrated very thoroughly!
+Bill Wesolowski Thank Bill, You just made my day!
Thank you for taking the time to make an awesome video. Great help
My true reward is getting uplifting comments like yours. Thank you for taking the time to leave your well received message. Hope the information helps you on your project!
Well done, informative & exactly what I needed to see. Thanks
Awesome.... Glad you found it useful. Hope it finds you well and gets you back on the road. Cheers!
I have the same exact 4 conduct wires you used on this video but my 2 stop & signal lights have red & black wires can you help me with that?
+Caza Y Pesca I think I understand what you are talking about. Let's see if I can explain what you need to do. At the 18:12 point in my video, I show the inside of the light. You will need to open yours and determine 3 things... 1) since there is only two wires, I assume that your Ground will be done using the mounting bolts just like mine. ( you need to see if this is the case). 2) Determine which one of the wires goes to your Bright element. In my case, since my light fixture also has a side light bulb. I knew that the wire that touched both the side bulb and the rear bulb, was my Turn Signal / Brake (bright element). This was the Brown wire of my fixture. This Brown wire will need to connect to the harness Green wire for the Passenger side. This Brown wire will need to connect to the harness Yellow wire for the Driver side. 3) The fixture wire that goes to the dim element, in my case the one that only went to the rear bulb, (green) will need to connect to the Brown wire of the harness. You can temporarily make these connections and test prior to making them more permanent. Good luck!
I have everything ready to connect ...I will try tomorrow ....thanks for you explanation !!
Pinned by bearcreekhaven2
This posting is best seen. Completed my wiring project; couldn't have done it so easily if not for these excellent step-by-step video/audio directions from an expert. Kudos.
Thank you for the kind words Bill! Glad you found it useful and that you are now up and running!!!!! Cheers!
Great example of rewiring a trailer
Glad that it sound like it was useful. Cheers!
Thank you Sir.
Real man of genius!!
Sounds like it helped you out. Cheers to you! Mike
Thanks I had A bad Ground causing a little feedback in the Directional Signals.The running lights were fine STOP fine however either left and or right signal caused the Running lights to give e slight twang of flashing on all running lights whenever I used the Turn signals very very faint but it was present . So I went back and cleaned up and got rid of the butt connectors soldered them and heat shrunk them sanded down the Grounds and no more feedback Probably could have just done the Butt Connectors again but I was told I will only have to go thru this again in 5 years so I went the extra bit and only burned myself a little with the soldering ha ha however I forgot how the wires went back together SO the Video Saved the Day THANK YOU!
That's a great story. Glad you have it working now! Time to go haul something. Cheers!
Clean and clear instructions. My kind of video.
Really great instructions, very detail very precise. My only question is why did it pop up when I was looking for instructions to wire the plug into the wiring for my 1987 Ranger not the trailer?
Dang you did a good job with this video. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it and hope it helped you with your project! Mike
Very thorough! very informative! Exactly what I needed to know!Thank you!
Excellent!!!! Glad it helped. Mine is still performing as installed. Cheers!
Clean work
I followed all introductions it worked very well except the running lights or headlights. I need head light. Thanks
Nice video. They do make a rubber insulated wire clamp to fasten the wire to things versus an EMT clamp than could chafe the wire. Also anywhere a wire is run next to the edge of anything metal or through a hole use a grommet. Many factory trailers don't do this and the wiring gets cut then you have no working lights. Just a couple tips for the viewers.
+2 AM Excellent point on the chafing! I was trying to avoid the chafing by looping the wire around the clamps to reduce the amount of movement/chatter. But I really like your suggestion. Thanks for sharing!
Exactly the information I needed. Thank you for the great video.
You are more than welcome! Cool stuff once you get it figured out! Have fun with yours!
Thanks so much! Been looking for instructions all day.
Awesome! Good luck with your project!
Great video, Great teacher! Thanks for taking the time.
I appreciate the kind words. Cheers! Mike
Excellent video, thank you for the clear explanations - I learned several things, which will help me as I have several trailers to be re-wired. I've often seen where the wire is ran through wire loom in between light fixtures, is this to prevent road damage to the wiring? I often drive on gravel roads, so I'm wondering if I should do exactly as you have done, but just add the wire loom for protection?
Running the wire through Loom or even conduit pipe is always a good idea for heavily used trailers and in your case dirt or gravel roads.... Cheers!!!
Thanks for the video, it helps me solve my problem
Awesome. Glad it helped! Cheers to you Sir!
Explained perfectly. I thought I was losing my mind but you logic saved me.
Very glad it helped. Thanks for taking the time to leave the message. Hearing this made my day!
thank you very much, you and youre video helps me a lot off to wiring my old trailer.. thanks bro i follow your channel
Glad you found it helpful! Have fun with yours!!!!!
thank you, I appreciate your help. I took off the brackets that mount the rear lights to the frame and drilled off the paint on the inside of the holes. I reassembled and now the lights work, blinkers work, but no break lights. I also called Harbor Freight and they said that the ground wire is inside the light and attached to a screw in the back. I took it apart but could not find said wire. But at least I have some working lights, just wish the break lights worked. I love the video, thank you.
it was very helpful i'm in the process of rewiring my trailer
@@johnbraboy8287 Glad you found it helpful. Mike
Great info good explanation but I think I’d go the extra mile and put wire loom and I’d use rubber P clips
Those are both great upgrades! Cheers and thanks for the feedback! Mike
Very clear , easy to get through what l thought woudl be a whale of a job . Thank you !
Glad you found it useful!!!! Best of luck with your project!!!!!!
Excellent video, very informative and pleasant to watch.
I appreciate this feedback. Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers to you sir!!!!
Excellent video that is very informative. Thank you for sharing.
Hope it helps you on your next project! Thanks for the feedback!!!!
I'm rewiring a small trailer that carries my lawn mower tomorrow. It has the side lights that also echoed the turn signals, but I'm leaning toward your setup with the side lights as markers only.