A note on your radiator mounting angle and possible improvements. It might be useful to consider mounting it with top tilted towards the front. The Corvette C5 front radiator is mounted in the same way that you showed in the video, top tilted back. In the C6, GM changed it to top tilted to the front. I suspect the reason was a measurable increase in cooling at speed. My experience with the C5 Z06 is that the coolant temperature rises to above 220F on hot days. I've seen it go to 245F when idling for long periods. From what I understand, C6 vette owners experience less issues with cooling in this regard. I've also noticed other sports cars with angled radiators angle towards the front, Ferarris specifically. It might be useful to consider this while we're still in the design fabrication stages. Good luck!
Looking for a radiator that is about 2 inches shorter to rotate as you have point out, otherwise my flow through the "nose holes" is compromised. Good eye.
Oh my... The shot at the end where you can see the rough shape of the entire thing, with you for scale as well... It's REALLY starting to look good now! Amazing project, love following this series!
I just found your videos. I appreciate how you keep calm and work efficiently. Definitely subbed and looking forward to watching the rest of this project come together.
Hi Jay thanks for the (way) earlier videos illustrating your lay up processes with the different glass fabrics especially the ultra fine twills - I was stressing over the internal covers for the A pillars and windscreen header rail on the Dino recreation I’m building. Now sorted - the ultra fine twill followed the curves of the foam profiles / formers and they are now ready for upholstry trimming . Also Rivet nuts are super - I’ve used them all over for mounting items in the car - a little tef-gel on the threads is worth apply especially if using stainless bolts . Keep the vides coming great work & thanks again. 🙏
I love watching this come together! Really looking great! Excited to hear it fire up for the time and hear what your exhaust sounds like! Awesome progress 👍
I'm not saying it cant be done. Just saying it probably shouldnt be done with aluminum sheet metal. Could fill the boxes with some sort of foam or lightweight stiffener
Just to clarify. A rivnut rivet nut or nutsert are generally not blind unless the end is capped over so a bolt cannot go all the way through. The same for pop rivets , if they are blind the end is sealed. This is so that they can be used in water tanks etc where you don’t want liquid seeping out of the rivets. If they aren’t capped off they aren’t blind. Tip to reduce corrosion and the possibility of spinning put a little thread locker or CA glue on them and or in the hole
could you explain your design process for measuring the front crash structure? how much/ how thick the material needs to be, where to put relief cuts and so on...
Ultimately the occupant protection needs to come from the tub. The function of the structure out front is to "reduce" impact. The aluminum (plus radiators and such) structure would absorb only minor impacts. The vertical cuts in the structure force the panel to crush straight in rather than down (as the slope of the nose would try to accentuate). In harder collisions the front sub-frame would then absorb more force by folding. hopefully all this before the tub is called upon. Ultimately the tub takes all of these forces, but hopefully in a decelerated fashion. In the rear, hopefully the rear sub-frame (with engine mass) will break away in serious accidents, a-la F1 theory. Not sure if I could easily put together all the sources this ideology came from.
@@BuilderCreator Appreciate the response. Could heavy duty springs provide an energy absorption mechanism? Or is there just too much energy in a collision for them to not bottom out?
@@BuilderCreator I know you don’t want to make talking head content but perhaps a video with your design and the considerations in the AutoCAD model might be an interesting way to do a bit more geeked content, you clearly have so much thinking behind it all it would be nice to give a sample...
@@dominodoce Most of the information is in my head and would truly have be a talking head video. Some viewers complain when I talk to much, some when I don't explain enough. As much of the information and planning for the Arete has taken place over years, going back and collecting it for a video would take a lot of time from building. I will try to bring up design aspect more often, but The new Leviathan project is going to be geared more toward stepping through EVERYTHING; ideas, design, fabrication and setup for production. In short- more geeked content!
Just a suggestion if differentials you are using dont last in running reversed you can try hmmwv center sections as they run in reverse normally due to the reduction boxes
since the holes on the bonnet are made to suck upwards air from the bottom of the bumper, wouldn't be better to angle the radiator the other way in order to use the air movement for cooling and minimize turbolence? i see there is a clearance issue but i believe positioning It that way, even more parallel to the ground (for clearence) would still be better, a lot of racecars with those bonnet holes use radiators parallel to the ground plane.
Back the supercar!! Brilliant work sir, I can’t wait to see this masterpiece painted.. you might be interested in my 20 min start to finish E30 M3 Recreation vid 😬
Thank you mate, yes the carbon roof was a real success, it removed a bit of weight too cutting the sunroof out.. The car is so lightweight about 1200 kg and with 365 bhp it’s a lively car. Im still loving your build..
can you tell us about your background specialties. Based on all of your knowledge over your over 2 years project car. You seem to know every single parts of car making process from ground up to the end. Level of your skills and knowledge are just incredible!!!!
Fabulous fabrication there Jay. Don't know if it would help but my experience with riv-nuts on motorcycles is that over time some get loose and can spin in their holes. I was wondering if applying some loctite when compressing the rivet part would ward off issues as well as moderating future galvanic corrosion.
I have found that in steel, but wonder if the deformation of aluminum will get a better grip. Also it seems to be the "bad bolts" that turn them, perhaps the right loctite (anti size) would be in order.
truth is, most automotive engineers can do maybe 1/10 of this guy. most people work in companies they focus on one aspect, which works when you are in a group/team. but individually they could never pull this off - this is the closest thing to Iron Man in real life.
There are a few engineers that follow the series and question some of my practices; almost always deficits I could easily correct with a couple million in R&D. If I could just get all my subscribers to send $100. Ha!
This is awesome, I really like your work , but I have a question .... Why did you choose to use FWD rather than installing a transverse engine in the rear and make RWD ?
I don’t know if it matters much but the radiator is angled the wrong way for the hood ducting. The least resistant path will be down not up. It may not matter but depending on the rest of the structure and ducting the air could actually stall and not cool the engine.
If something like your pants snagged on the frame, and the whole car fell off the jackstands, and a bunch of stuff got bent, which expletive would you use?
The front frame will ram in your foods, if you have an crash. The A-pillars looks too small in Profile and the foam Parts from the "Monocoque" are not stiff enought. I really like your Project, your Skills and your Motivation, but your Contruction is way too dangerous.
Those crash boxes are a lot of wasted space in a vehicle with limited space to put things. I would consider a slight redesign so that you could put things like washer bottles and horns inside them. I would also consider filling them with a high impact high density foam. At the moment they look to be a five mile an hour structure only adding a foam to them will take them upto a forty mph structure without harming the low speed absorption
Do you know what you're going to do for lights yet? Did you design it to use some that already exist or will you have to make your own? If you intend to race this car (spend time on various tracks), have you considered having extra body parts just in case of an accident (saving the templates so that you can make more as needed)? Have you thought about how much downforce you'd like to shoot for and at which speed you'd like to have that downforce, or are you just going to wind it? (lol I couldn't resist)
I have the lights (LED), but they are "replacement" bulbs for other vehicle (or off-road aftermarket) I will be building the fixtures for them. I have kept templates and of course the molds to replace or re-design in the future. Aero will be designed around Time-Attack. If I get to run it on track, that would be my interest. Amount of down force all depends on how high in the hierarchy you get in Time-Attack. As it will all be active, I will have room to play before I have to start changing things out.
Might be a weird question, watched all the Arete vids now, and I might have glanced over it, but are you going for rear-engine, front-wheel-drive layout? or are you going fwd? Either way, amazing build, always excited to watch em! Keep them coming!!
I could be wrong and misremembering but I think he said it was going to be all wheel drive, which is why there is a differential in the front (and I think there's one in the back under the engine).
Working backwards from finished front end crumple zone. Is it possible to glue as well as bolt That section to reduce fatigue and possible cracking around the bolt holes?
@@BuilderCreator lol, that might work. I rode 2 stroke motorbikes for 20 years and I have more memories of standing in a workshop rebuilding the engines than I do of riding them.
Hey Jay, are you going to sell the car when you get it done or what are you going to do with it? How many hours do you think you have put into this project?
Likely more than people would be willing to pay. Perhaps if production molds were taken from the finished car, lay-up times could be worked down. We shall see.
th-cam.com/video/NrJzcdMkC9k/w-d-xo.html The radiator would work the best way possible if you twist it to the front. The way you put it on the video will not allow good air travel. As I can see on the clip you have enough space to reconsider the twist. Good luck!
The most humble genius I've seen on TH-cam ... these videos blow me away.
I was humble until TH-cam comments inflated my ego. Ha! Thanks for watching the channel.
@@BuilderCreator 😅
@@BuilderCreator lol
A note on your radiator mounting angle and possible improvements. It might be useful to consider mounting it with top tilted towards the front. The Corvette C5 front radiator is mounted in the same way that you showed in the video, top tilted back. In the C6, GM changed it to top tilted to the front. I suspect the reason was a measurable increase in cooling at speed. My experience with the C5 Z06 is that the coolant temperature rises to above 220F on hot days. I've seen it go to 245F when idling for long periods. From what I understand, C6 vette owners experience less issues with cooling in this regard. I've also noticed other sports cars with angled radiators angle towards the front, Ferarris specifically. It might be useful to consider this while we're still in the design fabrication stages. Good luck!
Looking for a radiator that is about 2 inches shorter to rotate as you have point out, otherwise my flow through the "nose holes" is compromised. Good eye.
This reply doesn’t have enough love also this project is awesome. This car will be amazing!!! Can’t wait until it’s done.
Morning. I can appreciate the amount of thought that is going into this project. Excellent.
When you see the whole car with the panels on, like we do in the last shot... damn it’s looking good! 👍🏻
It's a car again, not just parts!
i just found this channel two days ago and I've watched the whole series. then i cussed when i realized that I have to wait for weekly updates.
Sorry, working as fast as I can to get MORE out there. Thanks for following the build.
Nice job ! As always ! I cannot believe you only have 48k subs, you deserve wayyyy more
it already looks fast. you're deserve so many more views, sir.
2 videos in one week nice👍😊
Salute for your hard work. You are taking very much efforts in making this car
The project is looking really good, like how it is coming together for you.
Oh my... The shot at the end where you can see the rough shape of the entire thing, with you for scale as well... It's REALLY starting to look good now! Amazing project, love following this series!
It's starting to fill the studio now, but when you see it next to another auto its pretty small.
A genuine labour of love. Keep it up!
It is truly a pleasure to be a part of this build process. Great inspiration!
I just found your videos. I appreciate how you keep calm and work efficiently. Definitely subbed and looking forward to watching the rest of this project come together.
Welcome aboard!
Hi Jay thanks for the (way) earlier videos illustrating your lay up processes with the different glass fabrics especially the ultra fine twills - I was stressing over the internal covers for the A pillars and windscreen header rail on the Dino recreation I’m building. Now sorted - the ultra fine twill followed the curves of the foam profiles / formers and they are now ready for upholstry trimming . Also Rivet nuts are super - I’ve used them all over for mounting items in the car - a little tef-gel on the threads is worth apply especially if using stainless bolts . Keep the vides coming great work & thanks again. 🙏
Glad I could help. Wish I was ready for upholstery. Ha!
Hey, the sound is better! Nice!
Looking good!
I love watching this come together! Really looking great! Excited to hear it fire up for the time and hear what your exhaust sounds like! Awesome progress 👍
You and me both!
@@BuilderCreator lol I bet!
Today is the day!!! Whooo hoooo!!!
greetings from germany nice work!
Willkommen in der Show!
For a possible 200 mph car I would be building a steel crash structure. Aluminum won't absorb impact like your hoping even with your box structure.
I'm not saying it cant be done. Just saying it probably shouldnt be done with aluminum sheet metal. Could fill the boxes with some sort of foam or lightweight stiffener
This guy is the Bob Ross of engineer's.
This is very cool. Can't wait til it's a roller.
It’s looks amazing , I hope we see the next video soon .
Eevery Thursday . . God willing.
loving the series, keep up the great work.
Just to clarify. A rivnut rivet nut or nutsert are generally not blind unless the end is capped over so a bolt cannot go all the way through. The same for pop rivets , if they are blind the end is sealed. This is so that they can be used in water tanks etc where you don’t want liquid seeping out of the rivets.
If they aren’t capped off they aren’t blind.
Tip to reduce corrosion and the possibility of spinning put a little thread locker or CA glue on them and or in the hole
It is looking delicious!
taking shape. great!
every week i wait your video
Today is the day!
This is one of my favorite TH-camr opening lines, now. Cheers :D
Maybe the most beautiflul handmade car built by scratch, the proportions and aesthetics are very beautiful.... Why air compressor?
air- active aero and door open mechanism.
@@BuilderCreator Ah right, active aero wing... Door open mechanism with compressed air by compressor? Wow
great job
could you explain your design process for measuring the front crash structure? how much/ how thick the material needs to be, where to put relief cuts and so on...
Yes even links to the theory used would be a start.
Ultimately the occupant protection needs to come from the tub. The function of the structure out front is to "reduce" impact. The aluminum (plus radiators and such) structure would absorb only minor impacts. The vertical cuts in the structure force the panel to crush straight in rather than down (as the slope of the nose would try to accentuate). In harder collisions the front sub-frame would then absorb more force by folding. hopefully all this before the tub is called upon. Ultimately the tub takes all of these forces, but hopefully in a decelerated fashion. In the rear, hopefully the rear sub-frame (with engine mass) will break away in serious accidents, a-la F1 theory. Not sure if I could easily put together all the sources this ideology came from.
@@BuilderCreator Appreciate the response.
Could heavy duty springs provide an energy absorption mechanism? Or is there just too much energy in a collision for them to not bottom out?
@@BuilderCreator I know you don’t want to make talking head content but perhaps a video with your design and the considerations in the AutoCAD model might be an interesting way to do a bit more geeked content, you clearly have so much thinking behind it all it would be nice to give a sample...
@@dominodoce Most of the information is in my head and would truly have be a talking head video. Some viewers complain when I talk to much, some when I don't explain enough. As much of the information and planning for the Arete has taken place over years, going back and collecting it for a video would take a lot of time from building. I will try to bring up design aspect more often, but The new Leviathan project is going to be geared more toward stepping through EVERYTHING; ideas, design, fabrication and setup for production. In short- more geeked content!
Just a suggestion if differentials you are using dont last in running reversed you can try hmmwv center sections as they run in reverse normally due to the reduction boxes
Good to know. Thanks
Simply awesome Project! I`m looking forward to every part of that wonderful car! Subbed! :-)
Thanks, I'll try to keep great content coming.
@@BuilderCreator :-)
since the holes on the bonnet are made to suck upwards air from the bottom of the bumper, wouldn't be better to angle the radiator the other way in order to use the air movement for cooling and minimize turbolence?
i see there is a clearance issue but i believe positioning It that way, even more parallel to the ground (for clearence) would still be better, a lot of racecars with those bonnet holes use radiators parallel to the ground plane.
Yep! the wrecking yard radiator I have is about 2 inches to tall. looking for an alternative without having to get an expensive custom built one.
Loving it!
Back the supercar!! Brilliant work sir, I can’t wait to see this masterpiece painted.. you might be interested in my 20 min start to finish E30 M3 Recreation vid 😬
The carbon cap turned out nice! People like the summary videos, hope TH-cam gives it some exposure for you.
Thank you mate, yes the carbon roof was a real success, it removed a bit of weight too cutting the sunroof out.. The car is so lightweight about 1200 kg and with 365 bhp it’s a lively car.
Im still loving your build..
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS SIR
ah the ol' dirty finger template trick
Always keep one finger unwashed. Ha!
can you tell us about your background specialties. Based on all of your knowledge over your over 2 years project car. You seem to know every single parts of car making process from ground up to the end. Level of your skills and knowledge are just incredible!!!!
I talk a little about it in this video- th-cam.com/video/QucvCSwLaHg/w-d-xo.html
@@BuilderCreator become a big fan of your channel!!!!!
Cool Ride
Fabulous fabrication there Jay. Don't know if it would help but my experience with riv-nuts on motorcycles is that over time some get loose and can spin in their holes. I was wondering if applying some loctite when compressing the rivet part would ward off issues as well as moderating future galvanic corrosion.
I have found that in steel, but wonder if the deformation of aluminum will get a better grip. Also it seems to be the "bad bolts" that turn them, perhaps the right loctite (anti size) would be in order.
I wonder who's the one mechanical automotive engineer who would dislike this build series? I would love for them to share their knowledge. Lol
truth is, most automotive engineers can do maybe 1/10 of this guy.
most people work in companies they focus on one aspect, which works when you are in a group/team. but individually they could never pull this off - this is the closest thing to Iron Man in real life.
There are a few engineers that follow the series and question some of my practices; almost always deficits I could easily correct with a couple million in R&D. If I could just get all my subscribers to send $100. Ha!
Fantastic build, when will you install the flux capacitor, haha
Right after I hit my head on the toilet!
Today is the day every day.
Super robota.
This is awesome, I really like your work , but I have a question .... Why did you choose to use FWD rather than installing a transverse engine in the rear and make RWD ?
It will be All-wheel drive. It is all a result of packaging and expense to handle 600hp.
I don’t know if it matters much but the radiator is angled the wrong way for the hood ducting.
The least resistant path will be down not up. It may not matter but depending on the rest of the structure and ducting the air could actually stall and not cool the engine.
If something like your pants snagged on the frame, and the whole car fell off the jackstands, and a bunch of stuff got bent, which expletive would you use?
"Dang pants!"
HONEY!!!
god bless you 🤲
What kind of crash and safety regulations do you need to follow for this project?
For a "one-off" car the regulations are fairly lenient. As soon a you decide to build more and sell it-"Ouch!"
@@BuilderCreator Yeah, I can imagine. I guess your safety features are dependent on how much risk you yourself are happy to accept.
The front frame will ram in your foods, if you have an crash. The A-pillars looks too small in Profile and the foam Parts from the "Monocoque" are not stiff enought. I really like your Project, your Skills and your Motivation, but your Contruction is way too dangerous.
Those crash boxes are a lot of wasted space in a vehicle with limited space to put things.
I would consider a slight redesign so that you could put things like washer bottles and horns inside them.
I would also consider filling them with a high impact high density foam.
At the moment they look to be a five mile an hour structure only adding a foam to them will take them upto a forty mph structure without harming the low speed absorption
More space? there is already room for 2 travel bags. . . in supercar terms. Ha!
Do you know what you're going to do for lights yet? Did you design it to use some that already exist or will you have to make your own? If you intend to race this car (spend time on various tracks), have you considered having extra body parts just in case of an accident (saving the templates so that you can make more as needed)? Have you thought about how much downforce you'd like to shoot for and at which speed you'd like to have that downforce, or are you just going to wind it? (lol I couldn't resist)
I have the lights (LED), but they are "replacement" bulbs for other vehicle (or off-road aftermarket) I will be building the fixtures for them. I have kept templates and of course the molds to replace or re-design in the future. Aero will be designed around Time-Attack. If I get to run it on track, that would be my interest. Amount of down force all depends on how high in the hierarchy you get in Time-Attack. As it will all be active, I will have room to play before I have to start changing things out.
Might be a weird question, watched all the Arete vids now, and I might have glanced over it, but are you going for rear-engine, front-wheel-drive layout? or are you going fwd? Either way, amazing build, always excited to watch em! Keep them coming!!
I could be wrong and misremembering but I think he said it was going to be all wheel drive, which is why there is a differential in the front (and I think there's one in the back under the engine).
All wheel drive. You will start seeing more videos about this soon.
Grade the holes before riveting !!
Me: The front diff looks big from this angle
Jarvie: That's what she said!!
How is the radiator ducting going to work? With the way you've positioned and tilted the radiator it seems to me that bonnet vents are useless.
Still working on radiator position. Looking for a shorter (40mm) to get tilt correct.
Will you build another car, this design or another, when you're finished? After a much-needed break, I'm sure.
You can see the introduction to a new project here - th-cam.com/video/4SBcaZJfBYw/w-d-xo.html
Working backwards from finished front end crumple zone. Is it possible to glue as well as bolt That section to reduce fatigue and possible cracking around the bolt holes?
Bonding is a great way to go. I does take meticulous prep work and alignment, maybe on the production model -if ever. ha!
I can't wait to see the crash structure test at 30mph.
I hope I get a video. . .content, you know. Ha!
@@BuilderCreator Let's hope that never happens. You're making a beautiful thing. Let's keep it a crumple free zone.
Man, I really wanna build a car like that, but with a 2 stroke v8.
Man, you really wanna be rebuilding that engine every 10 000kms?
@@RachaelSA Lol not really.
8 chain saw motors all linked together- we could just change them out every 10K. Ha!
@@BuilderCreator lol, that might work. I rode 2 stroke motorbikes for 20 years and I have more memories of standing in a workshop rebuilding the engines than I do of riding them.
🤔👍
Hey Jay, are you going to sell the car when you get it done or what are you going to do with it? How many hours do you think you have put into this project?
Probably getting close to 2200 hours. Not planning on selling it unless I have to buy a new kidney or something. Ha!
@@BuilderCreator Hey Jay, thank you for the reply. The project is looking great!
I really this build except engine choice is 1jz? Curious if you don't like exhaust tone of v10 or v12 engine.
I guess I'll have to live with half a v12 sound. Ha!
Probably just doesn't like the price of a V10 or V12 engine, they would cost more than the entire budget for the build
🚀🚀🚀
How much would you sell the body panels for
and would you ship them?
Likely more than people would be willing to pay. Perhaps if production molds were taken from the finished car, lay-up times could be worked down. We shall see.
So is gonna be front wheel drive?
all wheel drive.
how could you drive a car that you put this much time into? the fear of crashing it is inconceivable
But we can rebuild, we have the technology!
Przy okazji budowy auta szykujesz sobie manufakturę, prędzej czy później znajdą się chętni na kolejne egzemplarze.
numer trzy dla Albert. :)
idol
Kapan selesainya kamprett, mau liat hasilnyaa
Het schiet allemaal niet op, gewoon doorwerken graag, ander kijk ik wel over 5 jaar.
Why am I not getting these notifications?
th-cam.com/video/NrJzcdMkC9k/w-d-xo.html
The radiator would work the best way possible if you twist it to the front. The way you put it on the video will not allow good air travel. As I can see on the clip you have enough space to reconsider the twist.
Good luck!
Looking for a radiator that is a few inches (50mm) shorter, to do so.
How about.
Today's a new day..
Your taking to much time to finish this project that it's boring now!
I was going to say that as well, then I walk out in the shop and have a great time the following day.
please read about islm