I was just going to say I wonder how these compare to M.A.S.K.™ figures in size. I also wonder what 1/6 scale M.A.S.K.™ figures would turn out like, although the 3d scans would need a lot of tidying and scaling up and a lot of details adding in to give them more definition.
This is awesome. I wish hasbro would make them in that acale. It would be nice to have ships as well like a tie fighter or x wing. Love the magnets and how it works.
Love the idea and execution. I always wanted Batman and Star Wars figures in Kenner's M.A.S.K. scale. And even Kenner was toying with this concept in 1985/86.
Great tip on the magnets for articulation, I'll be getting a resin printer soon and will definitely try this out. Always enjoy watching your videos, especially the 3D printing ones. Quality content, very creative.
I absolutely love it. Im sitting here amazed that this can be done. I have 0 experience in 3d printing and you got me on Amazon shopping for an Elegoo Mars 2 pro 3d printer haha. Im hoping I can figure it out through trial and error.
Half scale should be a new option for figures. Cool, compact size figures and half the material used. Imagine all the plastic, paint and material saved?
I honestly like this more than a functioning conventional joint because you don't have to worry about joints ever breaking, and you could mix and match joints. This could be especially fun on droids.
Wow!!! Your Star Wars half scale figures are amazing!!! I think the magnets would also work great in the hands and on the weapons/accessories of the figures so every figure always holds his gun correctly. You should also consider a chess set as the half scale would be perfect. The magnets also present the possibilities for gimmicks in a diorama scene, such as trick doors or triggered electronic effects.
you could make the holes for the magnets in the slicer using the 'hole' function, set it to the size / diameter of your magnets and just pop them in when printed.
That is possible, and I have experimented a bit with that, but I actually found it to be easier to get everything to work by doing it manually. One issue is that Chitibox will often refuse to dig a hole if there is something in the way, like the original pins on the limbs.
@@MightyJabbasCollection I use Lychee slicer so i cant relate, theres nothing wrong with manually doing it. If it aint broke dont fix it! just figured id mention it ;-)
It’s a good idea. Along the same lines, it should also be possible to redo the pins and holes included in the 3D models so that it will just work at the smaller scale, but that’s a lot of work and probably beyond my capabilities.
One advantage of doing the figures with magnets is that you can easily swap parts between different figures to do customs, an swap them back if you like.
15:32 When I paint small figures like that, I just use an old cork with a pile of this plasticine like glue (I'm not sure what's it called in English) on top of it. You can put it on and take it off easily and don't have to worry about that kind of stuff. It's also easier to hold a cork than a piece of cardboard and you can reach more spots from all angles.
@Mighty Jabba's Collection I am an action figure collector, and in some of my figures like Transformers or even the Alien lines there's always been issues with joints, either too tight or too floppy. There is a solution that has worked, particularly on the floppiness of the joints and it's that as you take the figures apart, add a drop of either super glue or clear nail polish, you let them dry and then insert them back into their sockets. This remedy works great on two points, one: It tightens the loose joints very well. Two: It fortifies the peg joints enough for playability. If you haven't tried that, give it a shot and see if it helps, in my case it sure has, and that is just a simple remedy, there are tons of others that can make it even better for you :) Still the magnet idea isn't bad at all, and it's cool cause it can recreate the traditional limb slashing in Star Wars LOL Great video and great project, keep 'em coming!
I’m actually aware of that fix and have done it a couple of times with toys. But I’m pretty sure the resin on these 3D printed toys would snap immediately if you tried that. Even the strong resin I am using is quite weak compared to something like injection molded plastic
@@MightyJabbasCollection I see, I offered that solution without even asking the type of plastic you were using on the figures itself. I had printed a small Alien from the ALIEN films in PVC and I did the same idea on my figure and it worked...granted on the first time I tried the joint it snapped, and I pulled a tooth pick, drilled and glued it in its place then added the droplets and so far not bad, so I proceeded to add the drops on the other regular pegs, though though it worked on mine, I have to admit I have not messed around with that figure much and now I am concerned with with what you told me of your experience LOL
Hey Jabba, have u tried using flexible resin? I just picked up some myself (Monocure 3D Flex) and I'm hoping that by printing the head, arms & legs with an 80/20 mix of regular resin to flexible resin it'll be easier to attach the limbs to the main body. If you do consider trying this, just know there may be some experimentation required to find the right exposure times- for example the flexible resin I purchased is clear, so it will change how long it takes for the base layers/regular layers to properly solidify in the UV. Great idea about the magnets tho!!
@@MightyJabbasCollection i more of meant for normal scale because I hadn't really watched the video yet but you could 3d print it and paint it to make it smooth and showing more details then you could make a cast out of it and make however many of that figure you want like say you want a stormtrooper squad or you want to start selling them
Best way to make the joints work is to use magnets. Its a trick we've been using in the figure customizing world for a while now. Dont have to worry about pegs breaking or any of the other potential shortfalls of resin printing or resin casting via silicone mold. These turned out really well, congrats! Also its not a bad idea to mark the drill bit with a piece of tape so you dont go to deep.
Thinking a small brush is best for small details is the most common error in miniature painters. What you need for detailling is a brush with a fine TIP. Small brushes have no reservoir or sveldt so they tend to splay. Their use is to put down a line of paint at a consistent width, not to put down detail. Why did you not add the magnet sockets to the model before printing? Would save you a step and ensure magnet placement was consistent.
It’s actually more work and more difficult to edit the files to include the magnet holes, when I can simply do it by hand in about a minute. If I was going to making multiples of the same figure then yes, it might make sense to take the time to edit the files
I so need those half scale magnetized action figures. Sale them to me & all ur fans. I suppose they would be wonderful prizes for ur patrons. Then small cards could be printed for them. Tiny bubbles would complete the esthetic. I must be allowed to collect them all!
Could you give a link or even a video on printing a throne for the original sized kenner jabba? I got a jabba for Christmas but no throne, and I can't find just the throne anywhere online
There isn’t a model for the original throne available yet, but as I mentioned I have sent one to be scanned, so I’m hoping to be able to make a video like that at some point
@@MightyJabbasCollection I did manage to find a throne! It wasn't complete but I got the missing gargoyles and the bowl/pipe, just need to find a railing now!
Rather than dealing with clipping the pegs and drilling holes, I'd just edit the files before printing to have the proper sized holes. Seems far easier, and much better when you are doing multiples of the same figure.
Well, actually I’m not sure that’s the case. Editing the files can sometimes be significantly more work than just doing a few things by hand, especially since it’s often difficult to know how things will fit together when printed. If I wanted to make many of the same figure, than yes it would be worth it.
@@MightyJabbasCollection I guess it depends on your skill level with editing existing STL files. That's something I'm quite familiar with, and something that would take me less time than cutting and drilling, and could be more precise in the end, since I could make the holes EXACTLY the diameter and depth I needed for a given size magnet. For someone who isn't as familiar with editing STL files, you are correct, it might be quicker to do it by hand. My eyesight isn't what it used to be, so for me cutting the pegs and drilling new holes would be far more difficult and certainly less precise.
I've got my first resin printer coming next week, after nearly 3 years of working with FDM printers. Looking forward to buying some of Desert Octopus' files!!
@@MightyJabbasCollection Yes, that's true, but it takes a steady and and good eyesight to do it correctly. :-) Both of which I'm losing more of by the year.
Couldn't u just modify the peg and put a small ball or mushroom shape at the end of the peg? That way you push the peg in while the figure is still malleable and after it cools the ball will stop the limb from coming ojt! Just wondering
Aside from it being a lot more work, I’m not convinced that the resin is strong enough for that. It would probably just break. Also, I’m not sure what you mean by cooling, but heat isn’t involved in making these, and resin also doesn’t melt in the way that plastic does when it’s heated, so you couldn’t even heat them up temporarily to insert the pegs
When you print on standard scale how do you keep figure together ? I was told that i should make molds and cast the parts on resin, that I should considered the 3D prints as prototypes not final figures
Well, I think it depends on what you want to use them for. You can 3D print "final figures" that either use printed joints or magnetic joints, but 3D printed figures will always be on the fragile side. I just use them for display so that's fine, but they wouldn't hold up to much play
I’m not sure Tinkercad is up to it (it tends to ruin highly detailed models or just refuse to load them). But certainly it is possible to edit the files. Still, it would take much longer than to just fix them manually, and I think the magnets work better anyway. If I was doing many prints of a particular figure, then it might make sense to take the time to edit them but I don’t see myself doing that
@@MightyJabbasCollection Oh yeah, and there's tinkercads 25mb max filesize.. Was asking, cos I'm customizing some remco/motu style figs that I wanna print full scale 5inch on an ender clone style printer.. you think that'd work?
I stopped watching your video half way. You figures are nice and you can print them well, however, you don't seem to know how action figures are made. You're printing the torso in one complete part. That's why you can't put functioning arms in them. You need to split the torso in half and inside put a structure that will help secure the arm in place, the same way the toy company does. Once you print everything you can screw or glue the two torso halves together and the arms will rotate nicely and will be secured. You manipulate the software really well. Why haven't you thought of this?
I do know how action figures are made, but I didn’t design these and I’m not skilled enough to do so. Also I think it’s a mistake to assume that techniques that work with injection molding will transfer over to 3D printing
@@MightyJabbasCollection The toy company had 3D printers way before we did. They design everything in a printer to get a prototype, from that prototype they make a mold. from there they mass produce. You can skip the mold part and split the torso in half in a 3d software and just put in those structures inside the chest and back. you already have 99% of the work done for you. you just need that one little step
Dude, just let me know what you're talking about. It's entirely possible that other people have done this before, but I wasn't knowingly copying anyone
@@MightyJabbasCollection - Half scale figures is literally what we've been doing for the past 8 months... We swim in the same circles - if you really didn't know, than apologies for the snark... just took me off guard a bit as we share friends/followers/whatever etc...
And for the record this isn't the first time I've done half-scale figures. I made a video where I painted a half-scale Amanaman that I released on June 21st of last year. I just think this is a "great minds think alike" kind of situation. :D
That's just nuts. I had all these figures as a child and some of them honestly I can't tell the difference!
bloody amazing mighty jabbas collection .
I’d love to see these guys in some M.A.S.K. vehicles
I was just going to say I wonder how these compare to M.A.S.K.™ figures in size. I also wonder what 1/6 scale M.A.S.K.™ figures would turn out like, although the 3d scans would need a lot of tidying and scaling up and a lot of details adding in to give them more definition.
Thanks for showing how you make these. I have never worked with magnets before!
As soon as these are available in the level of detail to match the 6" Black Series figures, I'm in.
This channel is soo interesting. You are so obsessed with Jabbas Palace and 3D printing. I don't know how you have time to do all this stuff
For details a push pin works for getting into tight spaces. When it comes to painting
A straight pin or a toothpick work nicely as well.
This is awesome. I wish hasbro would make them in that acale. It would be nice to have ships as well like a tie fighter or x wing.
Love the magnets and how it works.
Love the idea and execution. I always wanted Batman and Star Wars figures in Kenner's M.A.S.K. scale. And even Kenner was toying with this concept in 1985/86.
Great tip on the magnets for articulation, I'll be getting a resin printer soon and will definitely try this out.
Always enjoy watching your videos, especially the 3D printing ones. Quality content, very creative.
Super fun video to watch 🤠
much love from Texas 🤠
Fascinating! Great stuff. They look smaller than half-scale. Thanks for the superb content.
so cool. love the messing around on the prints you do.
I absolutely love it. Im sitting here amazed that this can be done. I have 0 experience in 3d printing and you got me on Amazon shopping for an Elegoo Mars 2 pro 3d printer haha. Im hoping I can figure it out through trial and error.
Awesome stuff! Need tiny weapons now! Great paint skills, by the way!
Great idea to use magnets!!!
Half scale should be a new option for figures. Cool, compact size figures and half the material used. Imagine all the plastic, paint and material saved?
My favorite toys as a kid was the little guys that came in the little x-wings and tie fighters
Action Fleet?
I honestly like this more than a functioning conventional joint because you don't have to worry about joints ever breaking, and you could mix and match joints. This could be especially fun on droids.
This is incredible man, amazing showcase of your talent!
Awesome job on the figures. They look amazing.
These are impressive, nice job.
If you hit them up with Krylon UV-resistant clear acrylic matte, it takes the shine right off.
These are super cool!
Wow!!! Your Star Wars half scale figures are amazing!!! I think the magnets would also work great in the hands and on the weapons/accessories of the figures so every figure always holds his gun correctly. You should also consider a chess set as the half scale would be perfect. The magnets also present the possibilities for gimmicks in a diorama scene, such as trick doors or triggered electronic effects.
you could make the holes for the magnets in the slicer using the 'hole' function, set it to the size / diameter of your magnets and just pop them in when printed.
That is possible, and I have experimented a bit with that, but I actually found it to be easier to get everything to work by doing it manually. One issue is that Chitibox will often refuse to dig a hole if there is something in the way, like the original pins on the limbs.
@@MightyJabbasCollection I use Lychee slicer so i cant relate, theres nothing wrong with manually doing it. If it aint broke dont fix it! just figured id mention it ;-)
It’s a good idea. Along the same lines, it should also be possible to redo the pins and holes included in the 3D models so that it will just work at the smaller scale, but that’s a lot of work and probably beyond my capabilities.
@@MightyJabbasCollection after seeing the 3d printing challenges you've over come I very much doubt that! All the best 😁
One advantage of doing the figures with magnets is that you can easily swap parts between different figures to do customs, an swap them back if you like.
Yes! I actually was going to show the guard with their limbs all mixed up but I totally forgot to include that
15:32 When I paint small figures like that, I just use an old cork with a pile of this plasticine like glue (I'm not sure what's it called in English) on top of it. You can put it on and take it off easily and don't have to worry about that kind of stuff. It's also easier to hold a cork than a piece of cardboard and you can reach more spots from all angles.
I've heard that but I never really have any corks lying around to use.
@@MightyJabbasCollection Need to drink more in lockdown it seems
Dave at Toy Polloi shows you how to make capes, clothes, ect, he has the correct material for luke jedi cape and Yoda jacket, worth a watch
Thanks. The issue is that at half scale the cloth will seem way too thick, but maybe I can figure something out.
I need these! Just fantastic work thanks for sharing!
Outstanding!
Imagine these on a tiny version of the sailbarge👌
super cool, good paint job !!! and nice idea
i honestly wanna see you make a life-size Kenner Jabba that works
Not going to happen :) But yes that would be cool
Awesome!
Love them I think they are fantastic very impressed
This is stupendous!! 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Amazing work as usual. Like M.A.S.K. figures, I grew up wishing more action figures were shorter in height.
awesome solution!
Remember the Air Raiders? Those are 1/2 sized Kenner formats. Also Eagle Force. Except those were die cast metal.
Cool man really cool 😎
3D Panda have been printing mini-figures articulated for some time :-)
@Mighty Jabba's Collection I am an action figure collector, and in some of my figures like Transformers or even the Alien lines there's always been issues with joints, either too tight or too floppy. There is a solution that has worked, particularly on the floppiness of the joints and it's that as you take the figures apart, add a drop of either super glue or clear nail polish, you let them dry and then insert them back into their sockets. This remedy works great on two points, one: It tightens the loose joints very well. Two: It fortifies the peg joints enough for playability. If you haven't tried that, give it a shot and see if it helps, in my case it sure has, and that is just a simple remedy, there are tons of others that can make it even better for you :) Still the magnet idea isn't bad at all, and it's cool cause it can recreate the traditional limb slashing in Star Wars LOL Great video and great project, keep 'em coming!
I’m actually aware of that fix and have done it a couple of times with toys. But I’m pretty sure the resin on these 3D printed toys would snap immediately if you tried that. Even the strong resin I am using is quite weak compared to something like injection molded plastic
@@MightyJabbasCollection I see, I offered that solution without even asking the type of plastic you were using on the figures itself. I had printed a small Alien from the ALIEN films in PVC and I did the same idea on my figure and it worked...granted on the first time I tried the joint it snapped, and I pulled a tooth pick, drilled and glued it in its place then added the droplets and so far not bad, so I proceeded to add the drops on the other regular pegs, though though it worked on mine, I have to admit I have not messed around with that figure much and now I am concerned with with what you told me of your experience LOL
Hey Jabba, have u tried using flexible resin? I just picked up some myself (Monocure 3D Flex) and I'm hoping that by printing the head, arms & legs with an 80/20 mix of regular resin to flexible resin it'll be easier to attach the limbs to the main body. If you do consider trying this, just know there may be some experimentation required to find the right exposure times- for example the flexible resin I purchased is clear, so it will change how long it takes for the base layers/regular layers to properly solidify in the UV. Great idea about the magnets tho!!
I did just receive some so I will be working on some ideas for flexible resin later
Fricking awesome...🤘🏼💯✔
I've just printer a kenner Boba Fett at 80%.. it's the same scale as M.A.S.K toys. Looks good.
I want to do all 6 Bounty Hunters👍👍
You should do resin casts because they look more accurate
How would you make a half-scale resin cast?
@@MightyJabbasCollection i more of meant for normal scale because I hadn't really watched the video yet but you could 3d print it and paint it to make it smooth and showing more details then you could make a cast out of it and make however many of that figure you want like say you want a stormtrooper squad or you want to start selling them
Please do the bar at the space port wear they meet hon solo
Now make giant vehicles for the tiny people lol 😆
Tbh I just use the blue mounting putty or Gorilla Mounting putty. It tightens articulation enough for posing and display.
If Hasbro did these on miniture retro cards I would buy them
Cards would be a cool addition, now that I think of it...
I have the same printer as this guy, and I was going to do exactly that with all the vintage figures just for fun. Also a mini box for The Jaba set.
Do a Kenner style Jabba card with blister
@@The1queencollector I thought an identical mini box with the correct packaging would be fun
Best way to make the joints work is to use magnets. Its a trick we've been using in the figure customizing world for a while now. Dont have to worry about pegs breaking or any of the other potential shortfalls of resin printing or resin casting via silicone mold. These turned out really well, congrats! Also its not a bad idea to mark the drill bit with a piece of tape so you dont go to deep.
Nice size for standard board games. a solid base could be better over a metallic board
great stuff!
In lychee you can set a hole size and depth. I wonder if that would work as well.
Sweet
Amazon work my friend 👌
love your prints... dude you sound like zeth rogen
So I am told. Either that or Kermit the Frog. :D
@@MightyJabbasCollection hahahahaha i think Rogen hahahajha
Love the size! Please don't produce these, I'll have to collect them all again! 👌🏼👌🏼
Awesome work! Can you split the torso for the print and mushroom peg them? Glue required...cheers for the great content!!!
I guess you could, but it would be dramatically more work than just doing it all manually
I want to get the micro Bespin World and 3D print it to suit the 3 3/4” scale.
Thinking a small brush is best for small details is the most common error in miniature painters. What you need for detailling is a brush with a fine TIP. Small brushes have no reservoir or sveldt so they tend to splay. Their use is to put down a line of paint at a consistent width, not to put down detail.
Why did you not add the magnet sockets to the model before printing? Would save you a step and ensure magnet placement was consistent.
It’s actually more work and more difficult to edit the files to include the magnet holes, when I can simply do it by hand in about a minute. If I was going to making multiples of the same figure then yes, it might make sense to take the time to edit the files
I so need those half scale magnetized action figures. Sale them to me & all ur fans. I suppose they would be wonderful prizes for ur patrons. Then small cards could be printed for them. Tiny bubbles would complete the esthetic. I must be allowed to collect them all!
Jibber Jabber Action Figure my thought exactly, this will sell 🔥
Could you give a link or even a video on printing a throne for the original sized kenner jabba? I got a jabba for Christmas but no throne, and I can't find just the throne anywhere online
There isn’t a model for the original throne available yet, but as I mentioned I have sent one to be scanned, so I’m hoping to be able to make a video like that at some point
@@MightyJabbasCollection I did manage to find a throne! It wasn't complete but I got the missing gargoyles and the bowl/pipe, just need to find a railing now!
Rather than dealing with clipping the pegs and drilling holes, I'd just edit the files before printing to have the proper sized holes. Seems far easier, and much better when you are doing multiples of the same figure.
Well, actually I’m not sure that’s the case. Editing the files can sometimes be significantly more work than just doing a few things by hand, especially since it’s often difficult to know how things will fit together when printed. If I wanted to make many of the same figure, than yes it would be worth it.
@@MightyJabbasCollection I guess it depends on your skill level with editing existing STL files. That's something I'm quite familiar with, and something that would take me less time than cutting and drilling, and could be more precise in the end, since I could make the holes EXACTLY the diameter and depth I needed for a given size magnet. For someone who isn't as familiar with editing STL files, you are correct, it might be quicker to do it by hand. My eyesight isn't what it used to be, so for me cutting the pegs and drilling new holes would be far more difficult and certainly less precise.
I've got my first resin printer coming next week, after nearly 3 years of working with FDM printers. Looking forward to buying some of Desert Octopus' files!!
I mean, it really just takes a minute or two to do the clipping and drilling. Seems like a wash even if you are an STL editing wizard
@@MightyJabbasCollection Yes, that's true, but it takes a steady and and good eyesight to do it correctly. :-) Both of which I'm losing more of by the year.
Couldn't u just modify the peg and put a small ball or mushroom shape at the end of the peg? That way you push the peg in while the figure is still malleable and after it cools the ball will stop the limb from coming ojt! Just wondering
Aside from it being a lot more work, I’m not convinced that the resin is strong enough for that. It would probably just break. Also, I’m not sure what you mean by cooling, but heat isn’t involved in making these, and resin also doesn’t melt in the way that plastic does when it’s heated, so you couldn’t even heat them up temporarily to insert the pegs
Would you consider making one of each character of the original kenner figures and selling them to me, I'm 100% serious.
Probably not, but I recently learned that there are some people on Etsy like The3DPanda who are selling half-scale prints similar to these
Do you share the files?? Awesome videos by the way
Amazing. Fir sale???
Any chance of 1/2 scale mini rigs?
Do you sell on eBay or online? Your stuff is great
Thanks, no. But there are some people on Etsy who apparently sell similar things, like the 3D Panda
Why don't you print them in bits like the origonal figures are done before they are sonic welded. Then you could glue them together. Great job though
I would like to try that, but I would need 3D models that were designed that way, and I've never seen anyone make any
What does the 3D printer in question cost?
When you print on standard scale how do you keep figure together ? I was told that i should make molds and cast the parts on resin, that I should considered the 3D prints as prototypes not final figures
Well, I think it depends on what you want to use them for. You can 3D print "final figures" that either use printed joints or magnetic joints, but 3D printed figures will always be on the fragile side. I just use them for display so that's fine, but they wouldn't hold up to much play
Why not use tinkercad and create larger pegs/holes?
I’m not sure Tinkercad is up to it (it tends to ruin highly detailed models or just refuse to load them). But certainly it is possible to edit the files. Still, it would take much longer than to just fix them manually, and I think the magnets work better anyway. If I was doing many prints of a particular figure, then it might make sense to take the time to edit them but I don’t see myself doing that
@@MightyJabbasCollection Oh yeah, and there's tinkercads 25mb max filesize.. Was asking, cos I'm customizing some remco/motu style figs that I wanna print full scale 5inch on an ender clone style printer.. you think that'd work?
Am using 3Dbuilder btw to replace the motu rubberbands with ball joint pegs.
I didn't realise until watching this my dad has jabba and his friends, though poor jabba lost his arm
You sound alot similar to The History Guy...lol
Dude you need to bore out your hole and glue in some vinyl tube if appropriate outer and inner size.
should be mazing to print all of them 1:1 . .. REAL HUMAN SIZE..... collect all 92 back card...
Copyright?
I stopped watching your video half way. You figures are nice and you can print them well, however, you don't seem to know how action figures are made. You're printing the torso in one complete part. That's why you can't put functioning arms in them. You need to split the torso in half and inside put a structure that will help secure the arm in place, the same way the toy company does. Once you print everything you can screw or glue the two torso halves together and the arms will rotate nicely and will be secured. You manipulate the software really well. Why haven't you thought of this?
I do know how action figures are made, but I didn’t design these and I’m not skilled enough to do so. Also I think it’s a mistake to assume that techniques that work with injection molding will transfer over to 3D printing
@@MightyJabbasCollection The toy company had 3D printers way before we did. They design everything in a printer to get a prototype, from that prototype they make a mold. from there they mass produce. You can skip the mold part and split the torso in half in a 3d software and just put in those structures inside the chest and back. you already have 99% of the work done for you. you just need that one little step
Original idea huh? *cough* right... Wow.
Dude, just let me know what you're talking about. It's entirely possible that other people have done this before, but I wasn't knowingly copying anyone
@@MightyJabbasCollection - Half scale figures is literally what we've been doing for the past 8 months... We swim in the same circles - if you really didn't know, than apologies for the snark... just took me off guard a bit as we share friends/followers/whatever etc...
I'd be interested to see it. Is it on TH-cam? Your channel seems to just have Rocksmith videos on it.
@@MightyJabbasCollection - We're on Instagram, same name... Never really put up any printing videos after I shifted the channel name, haha...
And for the record this isn't the first time I've done half-scale figures. I made a video where I painted a half-scale Amanaman that I released on June 21st of last year. I just think this is a "great minds think alike" kind of situation. :D
this completely defeats the purpose of collecting old toys
What is the purpose?
These are extremely cool!