Just FYI: If you had preferred to keep your existing wheels, another option is the Coyote Inner Liner/Boltless Beadlock System. Locks both inner and outer beads, and has runflat capability. Baja racers use them, but it may be overkill for what you're doing. Coyote Enterprises.
My son and I built a CNC plasma cutter table this summer. He cut out 3 sets of bead locks for him and two buddies. He designed anti-coning tabs into the outer ring. On two, he made 32 3/8": holes. I calculated the clamping pressure of 32 3/8" NC bolts at 43 ft lbs of torque and came up with over 100,000 lbs of clamping force. He went down to 16 bolts after that(should provide around 25,000 lbs of clamping force at 20 ft-lbs). Saves a LOT of work and provides enough force to keep the tire on the wheel. (Just calculated that there is only a little over 2000 lbs of force on the bead lock of a 16" tire at 10 psi.)
CPUDOCTHE1 , good call. I always think that a thicker ring with bigger bolts would cut down on the qty needed. This would also allow for a nice wide rock ring that won't cone.
Dang good video Matt! Step by step without being boring, I liked it. Man how heavy was that 40 when you were trying to get it on the bucket? Good job bro.
many bike shops and wholesale tire stores sell tire spoons from ten bucks up to 30 each. i like idea of silicone on back bead as there is nothing from keeping inner bead from blowing out. i run paddles and have experienced blowouts running 5psi , the weight n gravity causing blowout. only ruined one paddle being forced to drive outta a predicament. beadlocks have always been on wishlist but wanting inner bead just as secure as outer...
Probably a long shot and not sure if you take ideas from us but I think it would be awesome if you did some kind of soft top or rag top on your Jeep such as a sun Roof or cargo space cut. And add that special tarp fabric stuff that they us on the jku. Hahaha were would you even by that stuff good luck awesome videos
Hey Matt, I used to work at Firestone and we just had a can of bead sealer. It's made for tires and is basically like rubbery tar stuff.. It comes in a can with a brush on the lid. Just FYI, I'm sure the RTV would work fine
As an engineer, I get laughed at a lot by all my machinist buddies. That said, there is absolutely very good reason to torque every bolt to spec. Bolt length and material, clamped material/composition, gaskets, washers, type/size/frequency of loads, even tightening method affects torque spec. Improper torque can cause a bolted connection to fail catastrophically or worse, slowly without you knowing. However, engineering is quantified science of practical applications. You have the experience to torque bolts "by feel" (which is absolutely a recognized method under controlled circumstances) but others maybe don't. I'm not saying you shouldn't tighten bolts by hand, just don't dismiss proper torquing procedures. ;) Check this site out if you like: www.boltscience.com/index.htm THAT said, while I know lots of stuff about bolt preload and torque spec calculations, I don't know anything about building 4x4's. :) Thanks for the videos, and those are wicked looking tires/wheels. I hate seeing all the silly rims that have beadlock "designs" without the beadlock feature. Looking forward to seeing the completed project.
+fullporaport Fairly sure this is going to be a trailer queen. No need for balancing media if you aren't going to be at speed. I also run airsoft BB's in mine, works surprisingly well.
+T Wayland for drag racing I guess only one side is need to make it stay... For off-road, generally it's the sticks and rocks that get in there and dislodge the bead and the inside doesn't see much sticks or rocks. But you can get or build double beadlocks.
Second comment. I think it can't hurt to use sealant. especially for weld on rings. Those raceline wheels look like high quality and probably don't require sealant. Nothing like a back up plan. Jeep Life !
my friend used sealant like you did never had a problem for a long time, on trail he kinda broke the bead, minor but couldn't get it to seat right after, used the spare, fix was back home removing the old sealant , your millage may vary.
they look good! I've never seen anyone use RTV on a wheel before but that doesn't mean its not a good idea. Looking to upgrade our wheels at some point to beadlocks, thanks for sharing
MoabMan I like this idea. It also adds clamping force to the inside bead. The only trade off I can think of would be a puncture would not be easy to fix on the trail.
M8 bolts, so yes you can torque by feel and get it right. If you are not experienced use a torque wrench and you will get to know the pull required on a set length to get it right. Anyway if you strip it easy enough to redo that single thread using an insert, just have to get the snapped one out first... Only ever seen that before on big truck tyres....... But at least if you drive it into a river it will float upside down.
Great tips! Any chance you could do a thing on towing a jeep “flat”, no trailer, 4 wheels on the ground? I’d love to be able to drag my TJ without the weight and hassle of a trailer. Thanks!
Hey BJ I like the idea of sealing beadlocks as well. I do mine front and back but instead of RTV Silicon I use Sika Brand Self priming windshield urethane. I like using urethane over silicon as it bonds to rubber instead of occupying space.
I've read a few pbb posts about the window sealant vs rtv and from what I read, it seems it has a bit more flexibility to it that flexes better with an aired down tire.
+Secured Circus that's exactly why it works better it will bond and flex instead of just occupying space. a little rougher to swap tires but it trims easy. I have also used it to build up a scar on as sidewall to stop it from snagging.
Everyone I know uses silicone to seal up the bead on bead locks, I wouldn't think it necessary for racelines though.. Only issue I have is 40in swappers on a relatively small front axle.. And that's coming from a guy running 35s on an ifs Tacoma..
Don't you think 39.5s are pushing Dana 44's a bit?? Love your channel and you do great stuff I'm just wondering because I don't go hard on the skinny pedal at all and I've had trouble with 37's on Dana 44's
I'm going to DIY beadlocks onto my 16.5 wheels. Should I run a weld bead around inside rear of wheel for the rear(none beadlock side) bead of tire to help stay on? Thanks
hmmm...... So if you were to put RVT on a machined beadlock would nt you put it on the non locked side ? Can't say i agree at all with sealing it, sounds like some fun when you want to change tyres or tires how ever you spell it You still can add balancing beads using a highlight jack off the non locked bead
Love the videos, very helpful. I actually have those same Raceline wheels and 36-12.5R15 Super Swamper Radial TSLs. PO put balance beads in there. Just curious if yours actually balance out. Mine feel like they are trying to bounce the jeep off the road 40mph on up.
I bought a GMC Denali 1500 2017 two months ago. Is ir possible to put bead lock wheels in my truck. If so, where could I buy them? I also need to buy the tires. The ones that I have in my truck have 6 holes. Thanks, Alonso
I'm totally down with the sealing of the beadlocks. Its not like you'll ever hit highway speeds on it, and keeping air IN the tire when you're aired down is more important than anything. I just wonder if you should have used a light coat of RTV on the inner bead as well.
Please, next time don't be in front of the beadlock when setting the bead. Just in case any of the screws fail. Better safe than sorry. Wheels look awesome!😎👍
I agree with some other commenters, if it gives you peace of mind then go for it, there is no long lasting damage being done. What I will say though is that actual tire bead seal is already a pain to get off of most rims and I have found in my years that most new tires on a clean rim wont need bead seal at all. And with that you learn which rims corrode badly and need that extra bit of help sealing. When it comes time to change tires you will need a grinder with a sanding disc to remove the RTV from the rim and will generally remove the finish as well. It doesn't offer any more holding power than whats already accomplished with the lock, and with the frequency that drivers with bead-locks will inevitably check their tire pressures losing a pound of pressure every month or so is not too consequential. Also one other handy tip that helps speed up install is removing the core from the tire valve, this requires a cheap inexpensive tool but is well worth it for rapid deflating and inflating of the tire. Also good points on "feeling the torque" totally agree
I'd say yeah on the sealant if you're going to keep them on for a long time. No if you're going to be changing them often. I used to have to reset beadlock tires at least once a week (the same wheels, different tires) sometimes twice a week, and I can say it would have been more hassle than benefit. Because even if they were set improperly, they held air for a few days. Back to keeping them on the same wheels for a long time. Go ahead and seal them. It's not that much hassle to seal them, and you won''t have to clean it off all the time, so it's worth it to know that you're getting the best seal possible.
Just an FYI, the reason all your beadlock installs leak is because you arent taking the time to remove the excess inside flashing. You can see in the 6:40 of the video as you are prying it over the lip. that needs to be trimmed off.
every year the machining of materials gets better and better. Pretty sure new tires and rims would not need sealant, but after a few rough cuts up and down a trail, impacting against rocks, that sealant is going to get you home at the end of the day.
I have a good feel for tightening bolts but I also notice after wrenching for awhile my arm fatigues and the torque is not consistent so at the end I always use a torque wrench.
How about using an cordless drill and setting the chuck to slip at desired tension to get the bolts equally started at first? What do you think? Awesome videos!!
BleepinJeep Awesome appreciate the feedback I will have to check out that other video. We have race lines now but they are not bead lock wanting to upgrade soon to some good bead locks.
I enjoy the touch of humor and goofy ness. Keeps it light, yet informative. Keep it up 👍🏻
Just FYI: If you had preferred to keep your existing wheels, another option is the Coyote Inner Liner/Boltless Beadlock System. Locks both inner and outer beads, and has runflat capability. Baja racers use them, but it may be overkill for what you're doing. Coyote Enterprises.
My son and I built a CNC plasma cutter table this summer. He cut out 3 sets of bead locks for him and two buddies. He designed anti-coning tabs into the outer ring. On two, he made 32 3/8": holes. I calculated the clamping pressure of 32 3/8" NC bolts at 43 ft lbs of torque and came up with over 100,000 lbs of clamping force. He went down to 16 bolts after that(should provide around 25,000 lbs of clamping force at 20 ft-lbs). Saves a LOT of work and provides enough force to keep the tire on the wheel. (Just calculated that there is only a little over 2000 lbs of force on the bead lock of a 16" tire at 10 psi.)
CPUDOCTHE1 , good call. I always think that a thicker ring with bigger bolts would cut down on the qty needed. This would also allow for a nice wide rock ring that won't cone.
This Xj is amazing!! I love these Monday videos makes them a lot better keep up the good work 👍🏻👍🏻
X2! Monday Matt beard time. And I learned about torque Nazi's too.
Nice wheels and meats!
I came for the minions, I stayed for the beadlocks
Minion Matt.
Dang good video Matt! Step by step without being boring, I liked it. Man how heavy was that 40 when you were trying to get it on the bucket? Good job bro.
many bike shops and wholesale tire stores sell tire spoons from ten bucks up to 30 each. i like idea of silicone on back bead as there is nothing from keeping inner bead from blowing out. i run paddles and have experienced blowouts running 5psi , the weight n gravity causing blowout. only ruined one paddle being forced to drive outta a predicament. beadlocks have always been on wishlist but wanting inner bead just as secure as outer...
Never even thought to use a sealant on beadlocks... Good idea! 😂 And noce vid Matt!
Your getting more professional i like that
Geez those tires are big lol you make it look real heavy man haha
Probably a long shot and not sure if you take ideas from us but I think it would be awesome if you did some kind of soft top or rag top on your Jeep such as a sun Roof or cargo space cut. And add that special tarp fabric stuff that they us on the jku. Hahaha were would you even by that stuff good luck awesome videos
Hey Matt, I used to work at Firestone and we just had a can of bead sealer. It's made for tires and is basically like rubbery tar stuff.. It comes in a can with a brush on the lid. Just FYI, I'm sure the RTV would work fine
fuck the next guy who has to break that bead. we use it all the time where I work (atv shop) we get people with bent up wheels that don't seal right.
+SeaBass85 I looked for that years ago and never could find it.
+BleepinJeep you can get it from advanced auto parts in their commercial area
+BleepinJeep I think they sell it at Autozone, and Amazon.. Here is the stuff I remember using, amzn.com/B000GKD722 if you ever wanted some
+Black Night I second this, i work there
you did right with the stuff u used
Just curious... Is it possible for the inside bead (closest to the axle) unseat at low pressure? Shouldn't both sides of the wheel have a beadlock?
all my friends and the older guys I crawl with have always sealed their tires with RTV
Another great video! What kind of camera are you using these days?
+JBrunsonJr it's actually the same one I've been using since I started but for some reason my editing software switched to 60fps.
what does a set of tires like that cost.And yur a rockstar in garage
+Ahoohi thanks, they are about $1500 or so for 4
Nice video.. where is the link to that wheel...
+Paul Gdry hit "show more " in the description
ha, missed it completely.. odd
Bead sealer > RTV, especially when it comes to cleanup. Also, no balance beads?
the crawler will probably never be driven on the street so balancing isnt really important.
As an engineer, I get laughed at a lot by all my machinist buddies. That said, there is absolutely very good reason to torque every bolt to spec. Bolt length and material, clamped material/composition, gaskets, washers, type/size/frequency of loads, even tightening method affects torque spec. Improper torque can cause a bolted connection to fail catastrophically or worse, slowly without you knowing.
However, engineering is quantified science of practical applications. You have the experience to torque bolts "by feel" (which is absolutely a recognized method under controlled circumstances) but others maybe don't. I'm not saying you shouldn't tighten bolts by hand, just don't dismiss proper torquing procedures. ;)
Check this site out if you like: www.boltscience.com/index.htm
THAT said, while I know lots of stuff about bolt preload and torque spec calculations, I don't know anything about building 4x4's. :) Thanks for the videos, and those are wicked looking tires/wheels. I hate seeing all the silly rims that have beadlock "designs" without the beadlock feature. Looking forward to seeing the completed project.
yes! seal it!
how much lift are you going to be running?
+Dawson Young none
+BleepinJeep better question... How much droop are you going for with your suspension?
Mine have powder between for balence when the weel spin why your wheel dont ?
+fullporaport Fairly sure this is going to be a trailer queen. No need for balancing media if you aren't going to be at speed. I also run airsoft BB's in mine, works surprisingly well.
why does only one side get bolted in on beadlocks?
+T Wayland the inside bead generally sees less stress
+randy lehahee ok. thanks
+T Wayland for drag racing I guess only one side is need to make it stay... For off-road, generally it's the sticks and rocks that get in there and dislodge the bead and the inside doesn't see much sticks or rocks. But you can get or build double beadlocks.
T Wayland because they only lock the outside bead.
Get a tire tool
first comment
fish is the best thing for seals
Second comment.
I think it can't hurt to use sealant. especially for weld on rings. Those raceline wheels look like high quality and probably don't require sealant. Nothing like a back up plan. Jeep Life !
Murphy's tire bead lube. And, yes it's a good idea to always lube the tire beads. It helps the tire completely seal much easier.
my friend used sealant like you did never had a problem for a long time, on trail he kinda broke the bead, minor but couldn't get it to seat right after, used the spare, fix was back home removing the old sealant , your millage may vary.
they look good! I've never seen anyone use RTV on a wheel before but that doesn't mean its not a good idea. Looking to upgrade our wheels at some point to beadlocks, thanks for sharing
Not too sure about that rtv you used but yes, absolutely use a bead lube.
I use innertubes with my beadlocks. I got tired of messing around with sealant and stuff. Now they never ever leak. Costs about 30 bucks a tire.
MoabMan I like this idea. It also adds clamping force to the inside bead. The only trade off I can think of would be a puncture would not be easy to fix on the trail.
RTV is unnecessary.. A dab of anti-seize on each bolt will insure that the bolts dont rust or corrode over time. USE A TORQUE WRENCH! "Just Sayin"
M8 bolts, so yes you can torque by feel and get it right. If you are not experienced use a torque wrench and you will get to know the pull required on a set length to get it right. Anyway if you strip it easy enough to redo that single thread using an insert, just have to get the snapped one out first...
Only ever seen that before on big truck tyres....... But at least if you drive it into a river it will float upside down.
SeanBZA it's an aluminum rim, it's easy to pull the threads out.
Great tips! Any chance you could do a thing on towing a jeep “flat”, no trailer, 4 wheels on the ground? I’d love to be able to drag my TJ without the weight and hassle of a trailer. Thanks!
I just got some Machete Crawl Beadlocks wheels. Is it a bad idea to use Anti-Seize on the bead lock ring bolts?
Hey BJ I like the idea of sealing beadlocks as well. I do mine front and back but instead of RTV Silicon I use Sika Brand Self priming windshield urethane. I like using urethane over silicon as it bonds to rubber instead of occupying space.
I've read a few pbb posts about the window sealant vs rtv and from what I read, it seems it has a bit more flexibility to it that flexes better with an aired down tire.
+Secured Circus that's exactly why it works better it will bond and flex instead of just occupying space. a little rougher to swap tires but it trims easy. I have also used it to build up a scar on as sidewall to stop it from snagging.
Nice tire and wheel set , not cheap
Get some tire irons, like $10 for 2. Much more leverage and they wont scratch your pretty new rims.
Unless it's a mall crawler, who cares about the scratches?
Did he mention raceline wheels?
please miter the front of the slider ;) loving the build so far!
Gorilla tape on the inner bead help with inner bead not coming unseated
Everyone I know uses silicone to seal up the bead on bead locks, I wouldn't think it necessary for racelines though.. Only issue I have is 40in swappers on a relatively small front axle.. And that's coming from a guy running 35s on an ifs Tacoma..
Don't you think 39.5s are pushing Dana 44's a bit?? Love your channel and you do great stuff I'm just wondering because I don't go hard on the skinny pedal at all and I've had trouble with 37's on Dana 44's
I'm going to DIY beadlocks onto my 16.5 wheels. Should I run a weld bead around inside rear of wheel for the rear(none beadlock side) bead of tire to help stay on? Thanks
hmmm...... So if you were to put RVT on a machined beadlock would nt you put it on the non locked side ?
Can't say i agree at all with sealing it, sounds like some fun when you want to change tyres or tires how ever you spell it
You still can add balancing beads using a highlight jack off the non locked bead
Love the videos, very helpful. I actually have those same Raceline wheels and 36-12.5R15 Super Swamper Radial TSLs. PO put balance beads in there. Just curious if yours actually balance out. Mine feel like they are trying to bounce the jeep off the road 40mph on up.
I bought a GMC Denali 1500 2017 two months ago. Is ir possible to put bead lock wheels in my truck. If so, where could I buy them?
I also need to buy the tires. The ones that I have in my truck have 6 holes.
Thanks,
Alonso
I'm totally down with the sealing of the beadlocks. Its not like you'll ever hit highway speeds on it, and keeping air IN the tire when you're aired down is more important than anything. I just wonder if you should have used a light coat of RTV on the inner bead as well.
Please, next time don't be in front of the beadlock when setting the bead. Just in case any of the screws fail. Better safe than sorry. Wheels look awesome!😎👍
I agree with some other commenters, if it gives you peace of mind then go for it, there is no long lasting damage being done. What I will say though is that actual tire bead seal is already a pain to get off of most rims and I have found in my years that most new tires on a clean rim wont need bead seal at all. And with that you learn which rims corrode badly and need that extra bit of help sealing. When it comes time to change tires you will need a grinder with a sanding disc to remove the RTV from the rim and will generally remove the finish as well. It doesn't offer any more holding power than whats already accomplished with the lock, and with the frequency that drivers with bead-locks will inevitably check their tire pressures losing a pound of pressure every month or so is not too consequential. Also one other handy tip that helps speed up install is removing the core from the tire valve, this requires a cheap inexpensive tool but is well worth it for rapid deflating and inflating of the tire. Also good points on "feeling the torque" totally agree
I'd say yeah on the sealant if you're going to keep them on for a long time. No if you're going to be changing them often.
I used to have to reset beadlock tires at least once a week (the same wheels, different tires) sometimes twice a week, and I can say it would have been more hassle than benefit. Because even if they were set improperly, they held air for a few days.
Back to keeping them on the same wheels for a long time. Go ahead and seal them. It's not that much hassle to seal them, and you won''t have to clean it off all the time, so it's worth it to know that you're getting the best seal possible.
I've never had one leak myself with no sealant. Plus you have an added problem now, how the hell you going to add the airsoft BBs? ;-)
Mr. Rogers, Abe Lincoln, Minion . . . what's next Qui-Gon Jinn (Liam Neeson) from Star Wars hint hint. Nice wheels & tires.
Just an FYI, the reason all your beadlock installs leak is because you arent taking the time to remove the excess inside flashing. You can see in the 6:40 of the video as you are prying it over the lip. that needs to be trimmed off.
every year the machining of materials gets better and better. Pretty sure new tires and rims would not need sealant, but after a few rough cuts up and down a trail, impacting against rocks, that sealant is going to get you home at the end of the day.
silicone why not whats it going to hurt....
I have a good feel for tightening bolts but I also notice after wrenching for awhile my arm fatigues and the torque is not consistent so at the end I always use a torque wrench.
Damn Matt, the crawler is building some character! Couldn't have picked better wheels. Great build.
in the process of getting raceline steelies for my xj. affordable, quality and they look good too! can't wait to see that thing in action
I might have missed it but what is the wheel size?
I'm partial to rubber cement around the bead.
Seams to work well with regular steel wheels.
Can only imagine how it would be on bead locks
Or even a build for cargo space organization box just like the one that was in your first crawler that thing was awesome
What can it hurt to seal it?! Good content as usual! And the only kind of torque nazi you want to be is think kind that comes from your engine
that's interesting how the machined hub bore comes into the lug holes. Seems like the inside wall of the lug holes are really thin.
Maybe a silly question but why does it only lock one side of the tire and wheel?
Only 1 side is required to keep it on the rim
nice wheels mat, i like how they made the lip to center the tire, as for sealer, it caint hurt,great vid,godbless
wish I had same for my 98zj
''Torque Nazi's'' 😂
Great build, sick wheels, shop envy. Thx
I don't understand, you are using a ratchet so why not use a torque wrench?
I love how you thought to put sealant on the bead lock but not where the rubber meets the rim.
I really like those wheels! I think I know what I'm gonna get when I go to 35's or 37's
Looks like you could have used a hand on that big ass tire haha
How much is a descent prive for that kind of wheels
Seal it. A little bit of extra protection is better than a failure on the trail.
How about using an cordless drill and setting the chuck to slip at desired tension to get the bolts equally started at first? What do you think? Awesome videos!!
+agabri0 that would work too
Matt, why did you choose the steel ring vs. the aluminum ring? About to pull the trigger on these same Raceline wheels and can't decide.
Aluminum is great for sand or racing or whatever, but you need steel if you're going to be bashing on the rocks all the time.
HA HA HA HA
torque nazi lol iv never heard that one before but i like it
I thought it was a great idea to add the extra sealant to the wheel.
bad ass..
I'm watching this just because of the thumbnail.
why not use a flat rubber seal or a compressor seal.
Why would you put this tractor tire on this rim ?
how much lift are you going to be running?
I think if it gives you peace of mind do it.
Very informative! Thanks for the video!
Should have tightened in a star pattern. The way you did it was wrong.
have to try the rtv... prob work im thinkin...
Great video I see it was posted a while ago how did the RTV work out for you? And did you have good luck with the race lines
RTV is still holding, although I made another video of glueing the bask side as well becuase it kept burping when under 8psi. I love the racelines!
BleepinJeep Awesome appreciate the feedback I will have to check out that other video. We have race lines now but they are not bead lock wanting to upgrade soon to some good bead locks.
That thumbnail tho😂 im dying right now
Kool video - enjoyed watching !
no off roader by no means. but why isn't the inside locked the same as the outside?
most of the time a single bead lock will be all that is needed. But there are dual bead lock wheels available also.
Where can I get those things, I need em!!!!
I think you will have a trouble with wheel alignment
+NS Farm why?
Butt plug torque
39 1/2 on Dana 44's?
Been wondering that myself. I thought Scorpion was going to get the shaved 14 bolt.
Red Robin - d44 in the front. 14 in the rear. 🙄
Steph Kunneke
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't you D44 front and rear Matt?
Red Robin not a problem
you should do a video on bead locks dot legal ones off road only and what not
Sexy Beadlock wheels Matt