Repairing Electronics From High Level Down To Component Level Practical Example 1500W PA System
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ค. 2022
- I was asked to look at a complete 1500W PA system used in a hotel swimming pool bar. The system consists of a mixer, two passive Electro Voice speakers and an American Audio VLP1500 1500W PA Amplifier. I found one speaker channel has no bass sound, and the other channel has distorted audio even at low levels. In this video I will show you a practical example of how to diagnose a complete PA system, starting at high level, working out which items are faulty, then troubleshooting the faulty part(s) down to component level
Music in this video
The Miracle Workers - Overture (1976)
LTD - Love To The World (1976)
Chain Reaction - Dance Freak (1978)
Learn Electronics Repair #269
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Thank you
Richard
You're 100% correct 👍
If you haven't got the patience to watch an instructive repair video then you will definitely lose your marbles if you get stuck in a difficult repair that isn't a 5 minute job 😂
Change 'if' you get stuck in a difficult repair' for '*when* you get stuck... and you will be 100% right 😁
I enjoy these long format educationals ... really feels like you're there in the capacity of someone being shown the ropes and it wouldn't be the same in ADD sized chunklets.
I like the Stingray reference !! I loved that show as a kid. I'm 65 now..
Without going through all the comments...
"Anything can happen in the next half hour"
Was from the introduction of that popular 1964 ITV series Stingray us kids were glued to... I was 9yr old
i have been repairing video and audio electronics part-time for over eighteen years, earned a diploma from National Radio Service in Video/Audio Service and I never knew how to test a speaker cone before. Thank you! I messed up with a prospective client by telling him, when he brought me over a speaker cone to test, that I could not. I could have earned money for troubleshooting it if I had only known to check its resistance between the positive and negative terminals. If I was going to test it, I would have gone through the effort of hooking it up to my function generator and amplifier.
Frank, Frank Reiser Video/Audio Service
Really enjoyed this repair. The methodical testing is a great demonstration of how to follow the signal through the circuit. Loved the elation you showed that all engineers get when they fix something.
I think that was a master class in fault finding. I would have put money on it being a faulty component.
Me too
The lesson learned here is the same one for all electronics repair. Always do a thorough inspection of your board(s) before you even get into measurements.
This is totally correct. Although sometimes you don't see everything
@@LearnElectronicsRepair I've been there my friend! By the way thank you for your time and energy you put into your videos. It is much appreciated!
Hi again Richard.....not sure where the 'waffling' came from.
IMO, you are describing your thought process throughout a repair, whilst acknowledging the fact that some of those following may not be at the same level, and therefore you attempt to give out as much information as possible.
I guess it's not easy to do on camera too.
I'm most-appreciative that you also leave parts of the footage, where what you initially thought wasn't so, and add corrections in post-processing. Some content providers do not do that, and re-shoot footage in an attempt to appear perfect.
None of us are.
And I'm off to watch the rest of the video now, thanks again for your your great content.
It nice to see real world experiences
Had quite a few of these amps in over the years. Nice to see one that hasn’t caught on fire lol
Thank you! Because of others and your channel especially, I have resurrected a 1965 Dodge AM radio. It was electrolytic capacitors, of course. Cheers from Reno, Nevada, USA.
Oh man what a great idea. You’re hot on the scent now you can SEE the fault you just gotta find where in the stream it’s starting 👍🏻👍🏻
Repair an electronic equipment needs a ton of testing instrument and million ton of knowledge.
Hahaha love long repair videos, and now my American ears have gotten used to your accent. Another great fault finding video. Keep 'em coming, I'll keep watching.
I love these long videos. Brilliant!
Gerry Andersons Stingray "anything can happen in the next half hour", with me it's usually the magic smoke escapes. Ha Ha
There is a great app on your phone called 'Function Generator' which is brilliant and no crappy ads
Thanks. Have tried it
Fantastic learning lesson. Glad you recorded this.
These are perfect videos. Just keep the same format. This channel is well worth supporting. Cheers
Excellent repair!
Using the "process of elimination" is basically what you're doing here, and usually the best method when you can do that.
When working on items like this where you've got two circuits with a shared common power supply, you need to keep in mind that one circuit, (faulty one) can drag down your supply voltage/current and cause the appearance of both amp circuits being faulty. So, thats where I would lift the power supply lead to the suspected faulty amplifier and see if you have normal sound. Usually you'll have a plug coming from the supply feeding the amp and hopefully they have separate plugs or you might need to desolder or release a pin on the connector and pull the pin/wire out.
In audio/signal amplification circuits you'll have a few electrolytic capacitors. Capaitors block DC and allow AC signals to pass. When they're used in these amplifier circuits they're called "de-coupling" capacitors. They remove the unwanted DC bias voltage from the previous stage amplifier before the next amplifier stage. Being the next stage may require a different bias to the transistor depending on how its configured to operate or being a different spec'ed component. Like first is the pre-amp then power amp stage having two different types of transistors. Having an old low reading capacitor can give low volume because the coupling is not allowing the AC signal to get through to the next stage or very little of it. It can cause distortion too, because you may be cranking the volume up trying to shove the signal through the weak capacitor into the next stage. Also impedance gets changed with having faulty capacitors. Maximum power theorem, when source impedance equals load impedance is when max power transfer occurs. You won't have efficient impedance matching with bad capacitors also.
Gotta love how happy your file organizers are
richard the video was aced a perfect explanation of diagnosis and repair ....and very honest ..with professionalism ..
Great vid mate. Definitely shows the usefulness of a good visual inspection.
loved it ! I was screamin at the scream " you shoulda put the sine wave earlier ! " . Always as soon as possible... Thats a lucky fix with the trace ! It could have been WAY worse. I'm still intrigued why/how the trace busted... Maybe something fell in ? Amp looked kinda rusty. I don't know if I would have found the fault any faster than you. However, I do have a ritual of cleaning the boards b4 working on them.
First I look for damage and the dust and grime can sometimes help. Next grab a super bright flashlight and put it behind the board to reveal stuff you can't see. I use a 12v flat LED panel(40mm x 70mm) that is for a car dome light. It's crazy bright and not much thicker than an LED, so it fits underneath stuff. It lets you see right through the circuit boards making it easier to redraw schematics.
Next, i'll clean the board off real good with brushes and air. Just a quick sweep, but the point is to get all the dust off so I can see. Use a paint brush. Toothbrush for stubborn stuff. Either a vacuum cleaner or compressed air. If using a vacuum cleaner NEVER get the vacuum ANYWHERE near the board. Flick the dust off with the brush towards the vacuum. Vacuum should be like 6 inches away from the circuit board caz the static electricity is no joke.
You did an amazing repair job. Top notch service. A great learning/teaching experience.
As far as the speaker >> You can fix it. There is always a way to fix it. I've rewound voice coils before.. Soldered/jumpered broken turns in the voice coil... However, that kind of job is a LOT of work. It takes patience, skill and practice. It's more for really expensive stuff which is irreplaceable >> More important is >> I bet you can get a replacement speaker for about 50$ - 200$ >> Those high power PA speakers are more universal than you think. Since the enclosure is more like an infinite baffle, as long as you find something that has similar specs it will work fine. Many of these systems don't rely on the back pressure of the port to maintain excursion. For example many JBL speakers use a different type of foam surround that has a bunch of ripples and ductile glue that feels like silicone. This makes over-excursion much more difficult. The speakers barely move when you push them with your fingers !! = high power. Just pop a new one in for 200$ and call it a day.
You might as well try to repair the voice coil though. since it's dead anyways. It'd be good practice.
Oh and to take the speaker apart you should try a heat gun first. If that doesn't loosen the glue then use a solvent. lol, don't cut it :p Use shims or very carefully folded paper towels to float the speaker cone precisely in the center. Put sound through it & test before you glue.
good stuff. These are cool vids man.
Hi TDT Records
Some very good suggestions there that I will use on future videos. The amplifier comes from a hotel swimming pool bar so it is both outdoors(though has a roof), subjected chlorine fumes form the pool and right next to the ocean. This why we get that airborne corrosion here. Google 'Puerto Rico Gran Canaria' if you want to know know where the hotel is located, and then you will see why.
The Speakers are outdoor resistant, that is what makes them more expensive to replace the bass driver. They are mounted outdoors and exposed to the elements all year round, though in fairness we only get 88mm (about 3.5 inches) of rain a year here and the temperature rarely goes above 32C/90F on a summer day apart from during a Calima/Heatwave and never goes below about 14C (57F) on a midwinter night so being outdoor all year round isn't quite so bad for the speakers as it may seem.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair ahh, I see.
Now that you mention it. It sounds like the weatherproofing needs to be taken into thy own hands. OR > The client got duped & the equipment wasn't actually weather proof. There doesn't seem to be any conformal coating on that amp. Plus the speaker looks like it's the cloth/paper type. Normal speakers soak up water. I would get a plastic speaker OR spray everything with that silicone spray which comes in spray paint cans.
Sounds rough !
Speaker cabinets also hate moisture. I can't even count the number of speaker cabs I've repaired where the glue melted away/disappeared from humidity in the air.
Journey much more valuable than destination !
You followed systematic fault finding. Good find. Not an easy one.
Fantastic. I am very glad it took you so long to find it tbh :). I learned a lot watching your journey. Thank you.
Grande Maestro, muy buena la clase de reparacion. Gracias por la educacion
Great video... Thanks for sharing your knowledge... Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹🌟
Brilliant, thank you so much for this :) I learned so much.
We need a link to your playlist too lol
Hi richard nice fault finding. Great video.
Keep up the nice video's
depending on the adhesive used to afix the dustcap to the speaker, you can use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) to remove soften the glue. Try not to damage the cone as often you can replace the coil without needing to replace the cone, spider or dustcap, especially on professional drivers with large diameter voicecoils. That's a whole other video you could make.
Some of those EV speakers allow you to unbolt the magnet assembly making it a relatively straight forward job replacing the coil
I enjoyed this video, amazing work!
At least this blown track was visible unlike the other one which was bashful and hiding behind a component ;)
That is true. It was still a bit of a bitch to find as it was right down the front of the PCB and not easily visible when it was in the chassis
I remember recovering floppies on the Amiga Lararus disks, they were created using the diskdoctor utility.. there were other better tools - Thanks for the memory :)
Cheers. Great video!
nice one. I learned a lot. I'm a mechanic, so i font really lknow what I'm looking at. But I think to use signal generator and just follow the path seams easiest. it would have shown distorion on input, after volume board, and a output. Thanks again for showing the whole tought process
Seriously helpful video. I think I need to watch on my computer not my phone. I do wonder whether the amplifier damage might have something to do with the environment they were used in. To be honest I'd just pick a relatively budget bass driver as a replacement as an EV outdoor speaker will be inordinately pricey and given the audience won't be particularly critical cost would override most other considerations in my book.
Thanks again for the video, great stuff for those of us trying to push our skills and knowledge a bit further.
Watched this all the way to the end. Learned a lot. You da man Richard. BTW, doesn't have to be an EV brand speaker. They are expensive. Any other basic brand woofer that is more readily available should work as long as it is the same impedance.
Nice 1! Learned a lot from it! many thanks
very nice another great teaching
what an awesome video man your fault finding there went way over tutorial mode :)
Nice find! Thanks for the video!
Don't loose your marbles, I want more of these videos! Cheers!!
Hi, Mr.Richard
Thanks a lot..
Heya, oh wouw so much differant technics of trouble shooting I love 1 more very great vlog learned so much again
at 12:23 what a cute analog multimeter, can't wait until my Pro'sKit MT-2017 arrives next week. LoL (I'm addicted to test equipment, your videos also made me get a Kaiweets KM601) my old Fluke 87 is getting lonely.
Love your videos even if they do make me cringe now and then.
and very true, if you don't have the patience to watch (or listen as I do stuff on my bench) such a long video, then repair at component level is not for you.
thanks for uploading these videos. edutainment.
good troubleshooting, that's how you do it
Wonderful, as ever!
Hi Richard, I think this video gives a good insight in to the black hole that you look in to when working on these such things. I think to work on audio circuits you need to have a frequency generator of some sort and an oscilloscope to be able to work on them properly.
Just to clarify, what was the issue. Was it the cold joints on the output transistor or the bad track?
True or false:
As humans, we learn by making or observing mistakes.
True?
Keep learning.
False?
This is your first of many lessons to come.
Great job!!
very nice video.....great help...tqsm.....🤩❤
great vid as always, are you planning to do video about thyristors?
I really enjoyed this. You are so right… it’s about getting there in the end that counts and paycheck coming. Keep up the good work.
When you use your capacitor meter, do you ever try it with the pin holes for testing the capacitors rather than the probes
I remember "anything can happen in the next half hour".... Stingray. Stand by for action!
Hey Richard, how to test transistor which drive main transformer in atx psu? I have many cases where the primary side of signal transformer get voltage and frequency use DMM. But idk to test the secondary side of signal transformer. I have watch the smell psu which you repair.
I've seen people replacing voice coils on big woofers but I guess they had replacements readily available.
Great tenacity . You can buy a 12 inch speaker for has little as £30 pounds I am amazed to ,ok it may not be hifi quality but for that application I think it would sound great. Waterproof maybe not but often in Spain etc they pull a polythene bag over them in most case they can under some sort of shelter . Had mobile disco when was 17 now nearly 70. Retired electrician always dabbled in electronics thanks for giving me a greater understanding of the subject keep up the good work
These speakers don' t have polythene bags over them and they are outdoors. Having said that in Puerto Rico (Gran Canaria resort town not the Caribbean island) we have just 88mm of rain per year, and most of that has the decency to fall in the early hours of the morning around 2-3am lol. These came from a rather posh hotel, I am sure they can afford to fix it 😉
So my question is whether or not replacement parts numbers isn't available any more or discontinued production ??.
That!s troubleshooting for you
59:06 - Where is your scope ground connected?
StingRay ...with Troy Tempest , Phones, and the loverly Marina!!
You got it in one! I was a bit young at the time to fancy 'Aqua' Marina but I did think Tin Tin (Thunderbirds) was quite fit.
For a puppet...
The Oscilloscope ground where is it connected to and what precaution must one take with the Scope?
Being a lazy sod, I like doing a really thorough visual before bothering any tests/components/much dismantling. 80% of the time the issue is visible - as it was here - 20% of the time you have to do the ballache stuff. :-) Is a track burnt? Is a cap swollen? Any dodgy looking bits? Only if the answer is absolutely no would I start dickering with faffery. :-) Like I said, I'm lazy/busy...
What i like to do with audio devices that have no output, or distorted output, is feeding in a sine or quare wave signal, and used a self-made signal tracer.
This signal tracer is nothing fancy, just a old set of computerspeakers, where i added a BNC connector to the housing, the central pin of this BNC connector is connected with a 10nF (0,01uF) 630V rated bipolar capacitor to the input of the pcb with the amplifier. The audiocable with the 3.5mm audiojack is untouched, so this speakerset can still work as a test speakerset, or as a signal tracer with a scope probe to the BNC connector. The 10nF cap is offcourse to block DC voltage on a audio pcb.
Then with the scope probe connected, i follow the input signal untill the audio signal stops or gets distorted. With big circuits to trace, i use my favorite music from a pc audio output as input signal, because hearing a hour or so to a 450Hz beep is annoying. Grtz
Having different speakers may very well change the sound, even if they are the same size, impedance and power rating.
There are various magnets like ceramic or AlNiCo for example, sensitivity, frequency range, resonant frequency. ALL these factors and more give a speaker it's characteristic sound.
There is a lot of complicated electrical and mechanical mathematics in the design of speakers and their enclosures, a speaker is not ''just'' a speaker.
Just be aware of this when replacing speakers, unless you are getting one that is the same make and model.
You don't want to get an ''equivalent'' speaker that you paid a lot of money for, only for the customer to complain that the sound is too low, too high, too much bass etc.
in expensive hifi speakers youre right there, but would it be that much different in large PA system used only to play low volume background music ?
anything can happen in the next half hour. I grew up with those words watching Gerry Anderson's Stingray.
Cool...
Excellent video Richard, thank you. Did you return that pot to 113.5 ohms or leave it adjusted to 96?
The scope and sine wave input are such great tools... makes it very clear to see what's happening.
My guess on the failures is corrosion from a drop of moisture eating through the trace.
I returned it back to the original setting once I found it didn't help. Yes I agree that it is probably something environmental that is causing this type of failure
@@LearnElectronicsRepair You can use the same gloss polymer type coating used to waterproof woofers as an additional conformal coating for PCB's if they need extra environmental protection ... :)
Would a Huntron tracker/VI curve tracer or similar have found that a lot faster since you have a known good channel to compare to?
Richard, please look at Ian Chandlers comment further down the comments list. It's a future fault in the making.
He supernaturally notices arcing at resistor R55 at approximately 51min in: right side close to capacitor C67.
Sorry if you have already noticed this and super credit to Ian.
I think you guys are seeing video artifacts ... arcing would be really obvious.
@@johnnybravo505 I tend to agree - I can see what is being referred to as arcing but I don't think it is. The amplifier is still here as my van broke down (which must have been because it is reaching 41C here everyday the last few weeks and UK Sky news told me that will cause your car to blow up if you drive it when it is over 40C outdoors and I foolishly ignored the advice 😂) so I'll check it and let you guys know
In the mean time I'm off to bed for a 'tropical night' (minimum 27C tonight I guess but it will get cooler at night in a few months) and we don't have aircon in the house but I will probably survive. Having said that we have no type of heating in the house either, it's always at the ambient outdoor temperature whatever time of year so it could get as cold as 14C outdoors on a really bad midwinter night which is fookin' freezing and you need a thick quilt to keep warm in bed. Or a snuggly woman (or man, whatever your preference. as long as they are warm). Or both, or several of each if you feel like it and it is a really cold night which we get once every 3-4 years AKA 12C.
This is good for your energy bills by the way 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair If it was a contact with enough current to arc you would hear it buzz with speakers attached, if you look about at the same time as the flashing is happening there's two or three other places in areas of lower light where other light digital artifacts are happening too. Central Scotland here "boiling" @ 24c ... I'm gonna sleep in the pond tonight wi the fish ... :)
Wow, I have never seen a speaker diaphragm and voice coil dust cover gloss black. Maybe someone painted them that way?
Hello Richard
I did not see the model number on your thermal cam, but is it correct that this is a cam around 3200+ Yankee dollars?
Ouch..😜
Good audio opamp the 5532.
The signal injection of a sine wave to the amplifier section and move to the output is what i would have personally done first,because SINE WAVES are used to test the LINEARITY OF THE COMPONENTS OR CIRCUIT, I.E THE WAVE SHAPE THAT GOES IN MUST BE THE WAVE SHAPE THAT COMES OUT,IF THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN THEN THE COMPONENT IS CAUSING DISTORSION.THE BIAS COMPONENTS CAN CAUSE A SHIFT OF THE "Q POINT" ON THE LOAD LINE THEREFORE CAUSING DISTORSION ALSO.
N.B.SQUARE WAVES ARE INJECTED TO TEST THE FREQUENCY RESPONSE OF A COMPONENT OR CIRCUIT.
Nice, a broken track, do you see a lot of PCB damage as your right by the sea ? great video but I probably would have been on the sine wave earlier (hind sight is a wonderful thing Haha !) however this is gonna be invaluable to all who see it, I enjoyed it immensely. Shame about the speaker though...cheers !!
I am beginning to wonder that, as both the powered mixer and this amplifier are used in locations right by the beach (though two different beaches)
Me too ... audible distortion = straight to signal tracing but I do enjoy watching all the rest too ... :)
Leisuretec is where I resource my cheap drivers.
Can you tell us a little about infrared cameras for microelectronics? Are you happy with your HIK camera? I'm looking for something that can focus closely enough to be useful to diagnose board problems, somewhat different than the usual macroscopic camera. Maybe this could be a topic for a future video?
HI. The HIK camera is not mine - I subscriber sent it to me so I could try it. I have two others on their way to review that are higher resolution and I think they have usb output to a PC as well.
In the meantime give this a watch 😉
th-cam.com/video/v6Ll2v1brT0/w-d-xo.html
You should check out Guide IR PC210 with an additional macro lens. I think that combination is pretty decent bang for your buck.
Hi Richard,
What glue did you use to stick the speaker cone?
Would T-7000 be OK?
Just some generic contact adhesive like UHU glue (UK brand) I've seen others use silicone adhesive. Basically you are better witha glue that is a bit flexible/rubbery when set.
th-cam.com/video/MLkzpLO1ocQ/w-d-xo.html
How does that even happen? I feel like this profession can cause mania hah. Nice work! Easy money lolllz
shango066 has rebuilt speakers with kits, so maybe there is a kit available for your speaker. If you search for his video "Reconing JBL 2241H 18 inch Subwoofers" to see how he does it.
Do you have a video explaining the light bulb rig you use to power the unit on?
In case you haven’t found it yet, a YT search for “LER light bulb” turned up the following: th-cam.com/video/T2UNVoT4gCI/w-d-xo.html&si=R-jim8SoAkgLtcXm
Explanation and build.
My old boss called these tough dog repairs, we had different name for them "Unprintable"
Reckon it's Alien interference mate lol... now the speaker CAN be repaired of course, you can buy coils online and recone the bloody thing man, make some good dosh and get another skill down pat. Then you'll start buying up blown speakers and doing the same as you do with computers but more satisfying - especially expensive lovely sounding speakers that make you a ton more than a PC Mb can lol THanks RIchard, good video.
You never tried a 9 V battery on the connections
In your final summary you didn’t surmise the possible reason for the blown speaker? Was there a voltage current coming through the sound rail?
Could've been DC but IME in situations like this (pub and small venue systems) it's usually the other way round ... i.e. the cabinet gets knocked over ... or dropped and the cheap pressed steel speaker chassis gets bent slightly causing the voice coil wire to get caught in the front plate gap, fold over and then form a partial short or with cast chassis construction sometimes inexperienced overdriving causes the voice coil former to hit the back plate or actually leave the former gap completely in over excursion ... again causing the coil construction to fail, short and make voice coil impedance really low ... which then draws excess current from the amp and causes all sorts of damage to the amp stages and speaker. Larger pro-audio over-amped systems will cause speaker damage if not used carefully ... but that's a whole other subject level ... :) Usually pubs and small venue it's "pilot error" ... not respecting the equipment & the speakers fail 1st ... :)
@@johnnybravo505 thank you for your detailed reply very interesting.
@@terenceoconnor1584 If you want a laugh ... a few weeks ago I got a Mackie SRM450 that had got knocked over in a 2nd floor bar, as the stand fell over the speaker cab went straight through a window and onto the pavement outside ... luckily nobody got hurt ... it's repaired and back in service unbelievably ... :)
One of the main reasons for failure could be the use of bleach or hypochlorite in the pool and atmosphere above. Chlorine is probably the reason the fan protectors on the back are so rusty. Chlorine and copper are reactive and will dissolve/ react with any exposed metals. Hence the broken speaker wires! Try moving the amplifier into a dry clean air environment, and work out a way that the speakers can be excluded from the moist chloride air at the pool.
The pool bar is at a hotel tight next to the sea. I think it is the 'sea air' that causes the corrosion. It is dry here we only get 88mm of rain a year! The speakers is in the bar, which is covered but obviously open on three sides
Serious deductive powers here! I usually put all my faith into the visual inspection, as my electronics skills are lacking quite a bit.
Frankly, I'd just throw both speakers away and replace them. A pair of 500+W boxes would cost £150-£300 - they don't even need to be fancy ones if they're not pumping Wagner @ 1KW.
A pair of powered Mackie Thumps would cost 700€ (and weigh half of the EVs); they'd get rid of the external amp and could host rave parties for a thousand people :D
Or they could get a Samsung Tower for 500€. Really, there's no need to waste two ElectroVoice speakers for a little background music.
You did see the part of the video where I explain these are outdoor weather resistant speakers from a swimming pool, which is another good reason not to use mains powered active speakers as well?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Yeah. My Thumps have been under some pretty harsh weather. Of course you don't want to leave them turned on in a storm :D
You can buy, say, Klipsch 650s or Polk Audio's Atrium systems for a fraction of the price of those EVs.
I mean, **if** they really needed a 1500W system, and were hosting half-serious live shows, maybe Electro Voice would be a good choice. But for background music there are better, cheaper choices. In this case, I surely won't shell out 400€ for a speaker.
@@IlBiggo So far I don't know what they want to do about the faulty speaker. This is a rather posh hotel (as in expensive to stay there) with a large heated outdoor swimming pool. I am not sure that the cost of the replacement is the most important factor to them. They do put on live shows but not at the pool bar, they have a stage across the other side of the pool near the dining area for live events and that has it's own sound and lighting equipment.
@@IlBiggo I would've had the amp fixed and speaker re-coned for £250 at the outside here in the UK... these speakers are quite good and worth fixing ... P.S. and I would've re-sprayed the grills .... :)
@@johnnybravo505 Of course, ElectroVoice are super expensive *and* high quality. I feel like they're wasted on a pool's entertainment system. But if they have a stage too, they probably got the pool's system "bundled" with the stage sound equipment.
Personally, I'd have the speakers fixed, sell the whole system for a couple thousands or so, and then buy a more adequate (and far cheaper) set.
But then we wouldn't have Richard's repair videos! :D
That speaker looks like an eminence 12 inch 8 ohm. Unfortunately not worth re- coning. They are fairly inexpensive though as far as speakers are concerned.
My b has the display squished to the left of the screen.
We're about to launch Stingray
I need repair welder machine video please
Are you an old Northern Soul fan? Wigan Casino?
Yes, but I never went to Wigan Casino. There were regular Northern Soul nights and all-dayers in Stoke-on-Trent from where I hail, but from mid 1976 onwards I was going to what we now call 'modern soul' venues - though they were not called that at the time.
In particular I was at Blackpool Mecca Highland Room and/or the Manchester Ritz All-dayers most weekends.
The amps' ventilation holes looked absolutely filthy. Yegh.