No Schematics No Data Sheets - can we fix it anyway? Satellite Receiver Repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2022
- LER #230 Someone brought me a sateliite receiver for repair. There seems to be no information available (Schematics, Component Datasheets) but let's see if we can fix it using pure electronics knowledge
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Thank you
Richard
Came across your channel while browsing. Ex consumer electronics engineer but changed to the industrial sector many years ago after a decline in the consumer electronics trade. I do have the pleasure at work of teaching youngsters fault finding skills as I feel these skills are being lost due to curriculums of college and universities coupled with guys like ourselves retiring or leaving the industry due to a throw away society with the skills not being passed on. Good for you and keep it up as I'm certain you're making a difference especially your approach of talking your mind at each step as they would likely be thinking the same also and getting in good habits 😁.
Another very useful video Richard. It looks like Handy Andy's intuition about a power supply problem was correct - he should be into circuit board repair!!!
Another cracking video Richard! I also prefer this longer 'thinking out loud' approach to a problem, where possible causes are eliminated until you isolate the problem. It's much more interesting and informative.
You know last week I was struggling on a alarm system where the 2 bell boxes need replacing ,but I couldn't work out the wiring to a random connector block.
I also started talking aloud for the 1st ever time. It actually helped me.
I didn't complete the job 😁 And since I've uploaded photos to a site, where the lads have said "Good luck with that shit fest of a job" So I feel much better😂
If i find a bad cap on the power supply i change all the large ones on the side of the diodes. The coils are there to provide resistance to the high frequency ripple. Usually the first cap in the filtering network takes all the ripple to the face and heats up. A few years of that and it fails. After that the second one fails as well and the ripple gets to the semiconductors. That causes all kinds of problems and brownouts. Worst case scenario - the diode fails short for the secondary or if the failed cap is on the input side of the power supply the driver ic/ power mosfet shots out and blows up...
I love hearing your thinking process there are no other technicians on youtube who does this. But it really helps me understand the circuits.
Thank you Richard , I followed with you through the logical diagnostic process and learnt something new, interesting to see how you tested the caps and supply feeds. I like how you don't give up and accept failure without full circuit tear down of what the PSU is trying to supply. As for the dirty display, how many of us have fallen for something like!
Thank you again : Tony
Down to earth common sense approach. Nice one Rich. 👌
You make it look so easy ! I don't think I've ever managed to repair any SMPS before... whenever I see things like those yellow transformers, optocouplers, tiny 3 legged NPN/PNP transistors, high-frequency "feedback" circuits and proprietary IC's, my confidence levels go for a dive, lol. But the more industrial "through-hole" type boards (fortuantely still commonplace on power supply boards like these) do seem a lot more repairable than most of the SMD stuff in modern electronics
I'm not sure I am making it look 'easy' I'm just hoping that others can learn the methodical techniques I use. That's probably why it does seem easy, because the diagnosis is so step-by-step everything I do seems obvious. Actually it's just a matter of experience to put those steps in order, to follow the clues and get to the answer. You only learn that by doing it, so next time keep your confidence up and have a go. Do make sure you understand the dangers of working on high voltage items such as SMPS. You are quite safe as long as you know and respect the areas that can present a hazard. Regards the SMD stuff, that type of PCB didn't even exist when I learned electronics repair but actually I found that it is no more difficult than the through hole stuff. In fact in some ways it is easier to work on.
LOL
Dimitri ........ if you do want to learn it , i can certainly do a few skype or zoom session with you .
if you are interested, this shit is not really highly complex, ok
THE REASON YOU ARE CONFUSED AND HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO FIX ANYTHING (Just like i was a few decades back)
NO ONE ACTUALLY EXPLAINED IT TO YOU PROPERLY , that's all it is
Trust me, You get a Circuit board and i get a circuit board and we sit on zoom and i ask you what you think is going on and then i explain step by step the stages of a Switched Mode Power supply
YOU'LL GET IT
so... the offer is on the table mate
I only have 3 criteria if you want to proceed
1. You must be able to speak english (at least to some legible degree)
2. You must have a stable internet connection (Because frequent dropouts are fucking annoying)
3. YOU MUST ACTUALLY BE INTERESTED IN LEARNING THIS SHIT
(Because if you are not , then you won't get it )
so let me know, ok
happy to help
its all about ins and outs. do you have what you're supposed to going in? do you have what you're supposed to going out? answering just those two questions will get you far
thanks Richard, I would always prefer you to show us the diagnostic route, any monkey can replace capacitors, but it takes a technician to find the capacity at fault. Thanks for the video and look forward to the next one.
Schematics is a rare sight with majority of stuff. These skills are essential.
Thank you sir for your time and all the videos you have made. I really appreciate your effort and kindness for sharing your huge knowledge for all of us noob enthusiasts. Your channel is criminally underrated. I will spread word about you and wish that you keep on blessing us with new videos and wisdom. God bless your kind soul Richard and may you live long!
Thank you 🙂
That’s a good point about indiscriminate replacement ... and it is valuable to know the actual problem but afterwards I usually err on the side of “this one has failed then the others of the same type are probably going to be of a similar vintage and have had similar experience and so may well also fail soon”. It may well be my flawed logic but it also feeds into that balance of the cost of secondary failure ... if the customer isn’t going to mind then maybe just do the single swap ... and does a subsequent failure count against the customer’s opinion of my (lack of) skill.
I suspect in a few years time I won’t be able to get the parts anyway and my logic will be moot.
Thx for sharing ... I really appreciate folks who share their thinking processes like this far more than clever ‘quick fix’ merchants. Keep up the great work 😀👍
I agree with you, certainly regards changing other capacitors of the same type and value (or even of the same type). If I hadn't found the stupid reason the LED display was so dim then I would have been checking more of them. Actually I took the front panel out to see if I could check the voltage to the 7 segment display (I thought it may have it's own 78Lxx type regulator on the front panel) and realized it was actually quite bright once I got the PCB out. I was going to put that in the video but decided it was getting a bit long.
I just have at least fixed 5 devices in my home based on your videos thanks alot man
I love your videos. By far the best explanation I found. Could you do one about safety and capacitor discharging aswell?
Good stuff, really enjoyable to watch
Tuner modules also often make use of a ~30V supply for the varicap tuning voltage which is used to select the channel frequency.
A bit slow going but nice repair. Checking some of the datasheets of parts on the main board that use the logic voltage might have indicated that they need 3.3V and confirmed the supply problem.
Great video, learned a lot, thanks.
Every single satellite receiver of every brand I have repaired had the same problem: the power supply. But there were different points of failure in the supply: the caps, the switching transistor, or some zener. if you check for ripple with a scope, you can find many caps that are near failure on the secondary side.
Thanks for the vids always
Hi Richard, long time no see. I trust you are well?
Yeah the tuner front end use upto 30Volts to the varicap tuner diode to cover the wide frequency range.
If the display is one of those gas filled jobs they go very weak and dim over time.
Anyway nice to find you on TH-cam. Takecare. Mark friend of the Late Steve Lipski .
Changing the capacitors is just the obvious route, but as you say, it doesn't offer any fault finding diagnostic to it all.
It also doesn't mean that's where the problem is, so I much prefer this way of repair and actually learning something at the same time.
It's great seeing you break down the particular circuits to paper too and correlating between the board and circuit diagram.
A lot of video's focus on too much theory or just the repair and not enough of both.
Circuits within circuits.
Cheers man!
Not "obvious". Just parts swapping. No brains involved.
Yeah I guess that is a style I kinda developed once I started making videos. Initially because sometimes I found a concept too hard to clearly express vocally. A picture paints a thousand words as they say. Then because I found people really liked what I was doing. It's becoming something of a trade mark of #LER now so I certainly will carry on doing that.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Excellent! Thanks for the reply :)
Great video mate and nice diag.
Good Tutorial...cheers
just love it
I have some good oscilloscopes, but much of the time I just check the AC voltage in addition to the DC. If I see some AC ripple, that suggests often a bad capacitor. If unsure, I may even check the frequency of the ripple. I may see 60 Hz or 120 Hz (in US) or possibly some 20+ kHz if it comes from the switching regulator. In any case the AC measurement with the DMM gives good hints. Let's say I see 60 Hz, when there should be a full wave rectifier, then I can suspect the bridge or a single diode.
when i work on smps i tend to use a scope to check the outputs as it gives a better indication of the state of of the voltage lines
i am with you about shotgun replacement of caps i would rather find the fault.
Thanks for the hint rob - using the scope to test ripple sounds like a good idea.
I agree and with a scope, you can check a few things very quickly
1. Output voltage of the board (Especially since the scope probes are sharper and get into the hole easier)
2. Does the Xtal Produce the correct Waveform thus is it giving the clock signal to the I.C. ?
that little step has saved me a shit load of time more times than i can count
3. is there any video output on the RCA's Using the scope , you can check for video burst (Front Porch, back porch) that whole thing, although at times if there is a video burst, it may be low in amplitude and only the scope and a humans intuition for visual recognition could pick up on the fact that the signal is there, or it's distorted but still there or not distorted but low in amplitude etc...
Scopes are fucking awesome LOL
i DON'T BOTHER HOOKING UP TO A MONITOR INITIALLY
I Hook up to a scope and monitor the output of the yellow RCA, it will show you video output a lot better than what a tv would
if all looks good, THEN AND ONLY THEN DO I HOOK IT UP TO A TV
you can just check so much with a scope a lot quicker
The regulator is a Fairchild KA278R33 3.3V/2A low dropout regulator.
As usual it's easy to read an 8 for a B.
As you guessed, pin 4 is an enable pin.
You should fault trace/repair the display circuit board to get more light on the display.
Yeah those 8s and Bs can be a bitch lol! Didn't hold me back though 😁
Display was dirty cover. He was checking it out and noticed display was bright when removed from front panel.
Probably the 12v and the 6v run in series would be how it switches between the 12v and 18v for the horizontal and vertical you mentioned.
typically the power circuit goes bad. i used to work for sky as a service engineer and you can actually buy electronics "kits" as the fault is so common.
they run hot.
EDIT: well you used to be able to! i dont have specific model numbers to search as precisely as i'd like to
Yeah I remember the repair kits for the old analog satellite receivers like the Pace, and others. I guess that was the point I was trying to make at the end of this video - you can be a 'capacitor swapper' or you can learn to diagnose and repair things yourself. Both options often get the job done and the latter takes more time, dedication and effort but in the end you get the satisfaction from taking something broken and making it work with your own hands, and you also gain the knowledge to eventually be the person making profit selling the 'repair' kit, rather than being the person spending the money buying it.
These same skills, once you learn them, transfer to all sorts of electronics, including the stuff that is actually 'worth' repairing 😉
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Absolutely! and spot on! this is why. The learning never ends, and you show it well in all your vids. Thank you so much. #Legend EDIT: To clarify, the fault finding and diagnosis skills. "Understanding" is far better than just swapping and hoping!
Great content Thanks for sharing New subscriber
Another good one!
I've subscribed anyway pal could do with your help on certain things, and I spose you may need some help on certain things too, and here's a hint the old virgin media cable boxes and sky boxes have similar power supplies in them and they are very useful for spares.
Good video........I have just subscribed. We do the same job it seems? A couple of tips, if I may?..........I think that I would have checked the voltage at the cathodes of the secondary diodes first? (except negative outputs of course). It is so much easier to check there for shorts etc. I would also have used my meter on the AC range from each cathode to ground............any ripple, and hence low capacitor, would have read as an AC voltage and is usually a quick and easy way to check for faulty secondary caps without an oscilloscope. This also works across the main smoother of course, where you would be looking for around 340v DC, representing rectified 240v AC. Any appreciable ripple here simply means that the main smoother is low or o/c? A low DC voltage here points to the same fault of course. Great video............my comments were not meant to be criticisms.
Hi Ken, I can take comments or criticisms - and I'm not always right either! Someone else suggested (Possibly on this video or another one) to use a scope to check for ripple on all the voltage outputs. Your suggestion to use the AC Voltage range on your multimeter to do basically the same thing really is a good one. I will be using both these techniques in later videos. Thanks for the suggestion.
More Fun to fix it that way...
you should change LER to 'let's have a looook" 😆
clever thing to do would be to measure the impendance first before you plug it in - you might up ending in the dark if you dont, if the device is shorting out the circuit, your fuse might blow
Hi Rich, when you tested for residual charge in the main cap after the bridge rectifier, It looked like you tested for voltage the wrong side of the bridge.
If you test the wrong side of the bridge you will read 0 Volts not the voltage across the cap !! I know you know this, but in the video that looks like what you did.
To me it looked like you measured from the side of the diodes farthest away from the Main Smoothing Cap.
I just want to make others aware of where they should be measuring for the Charged Cap Voltage, on the OUTPUT of the bridge not the INPUT to the bridge from the AC supply side.
Richard, your mate Handy Andy, seems more like Dodgy Dicky!!
We Think The Scientist is Mad, The Scientist Thinks We've Got A Screw Loose .
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Screws🌨🌨🌨🌨
Great Videos short and informative..
Greets from Germany 🖖🖖
I really like this type of videos!
Question: Is it not possible to check the caps in circuit?
If you diagnose the fault methodically you don't have to rely on testing all the capacitors (which you need to remove to do it reliably)
@Mr Guru
Caps do not NEED to be removed to find the fault
Now Look, I've been doing electronics since i was 6 (i'm 48)
clearly you're not a newcomer either , given the mention of CRT's on Arcade Machines
and even though i agree with the statement
"TO BE TESTED PROPERLY" they need to be removed from circuit .......... sure
When diagnosing we need to look at time efficiency and probability of finding the solution because (as you likely know) when time is money you need to work efficiently
so... it's not always NEEDED to take them out of circuit
I have tested this extensively on a variety of different products, to a limited extent on the old Arcades as well
I have repaired Pacman, Galaga, Space Invaders (the original Black and White CRT) with the POTS for the V and H Hold (fucking memories.. huh LOL)
anyway mate, with all due respect where it's due (as i respect anyone that's in this game of ours)
You don't always need to
in saying that... i can also see a few things he's doing wrong (and i'm not nit picking either) and not trying to be a dick, so i do understand your initial comment to him and why
but yeah, it's not ALWAYS NECESSARY to go taking every cap out of circuit
i mean, this defeats the purpose of the E.S.R. Tester doesn't it , which has (let's not forget) Served us Diligently for decades
Now is that not a fair point ?
it is possible to check caps in circuit , i've been doing it for years.
Mr Guru has a different level of experience and his comment is not incorrect but NEEDS TO BE TAKEN WITH A GRAIN OF SALT and a degree of understanding needs to be exercised
but .. do not misunderstand it as ..... you can never check caps in circuit
NO... it doesn't mean that
@Mr Guru
OK,
1. i can respect all that
2. When i repair stuff i'm also a fan of Panasonic Nichicon and ruby's )
3. i agree that a $1,000 product deserves 10 bucks worth of love
4. i do actually run a business , been doing so for 25 years
5. RE THIS
You can do whatever you want. With all the sh!t Chinese caps out there I prefer to install quality Japanese caps
Ok, but not everything is a $1,000 item
these STB's are like $50
Now you said you worked in Engineering, meaning your'e an engineer (at least i hope so)
I'm also an engineer
WHAT IS THE POINT OF ENGINEERING IF WE CAN'T HELP OTHERS WITH WHAT WE KNOW ?
so, You have a pensioner, she's old , she has a satellite STB and it's just died in the arse,
you have to make it worth your while , and you have to , let's say replace a MOSFET, Bulk filter Cap and say 2 Caps on the output
she isn't made of money , mate
do you tell here to fuck off or go away and not help her JUST BECAUSE SHE DOESN'T UNDERSTAND WHAT A NICHICON IS
Mate, none of them understand, ok , and if you try to explain it to them they get bored as fuck ,
Our job is to help them by using what we know
sometimes that means installing a cheap shit Panda brand cap, i've done this (even though i agree with installing quality) and they do last a few years , regardless of what you say
I'm certainly not going to debate with you that Panasonic Ruby and Nichicon are not the way to go, of course not
but you can take an arrogant stance like "well if people don't like it then they can fuck off"
because that doesn't work mate
I agree there is a point at which you say ...... I'm not doing this because it's bullshit and you hold off on principle
but in upholding principle WE ALSO NEED TO SHOW UNDERSTANDING FOR THE LAMENS AND FIND A SOLUTION
Not everything is going to be ideal , sometimes the supplier doesn't have ruby's to send you or panasonic's
sometimes they do but the lead time is 2 months
YOU WORK WITH WHAT YOU GOT
also saying... WELL PUT IT THIS WAY doesn't make you instantly correct, even though you have some valid points
i can also say ... Put it this way etc etc
fact is , it looks like we both have enough experience
although (honestly) i reckon your Nichicon price is rearing it's head a bit too much LOL
just like my Scope pride sometimes rears its' head too much as well
Mate, i fucking understand you ok LOL
but your'e kinda going overboard a bit, I'm not a newcomer, ok
now that other kid was asking can you NOT test caps in circuit
YOU KNOW AND I KNOW WE CAN , ok
we can successfully repair shit doing so because i've done it thousands of times over
in saying that, i agree, let's not promote shit , but let's not also promote incorrect information to the young one's that would continue to the industry
let's encourage them to test and find out on their own while also considering our life experience
so... if i'm repairing a TV Remote control , Do i really need to throw a ruby into it ?
of course not
i won't purposely pick the cheapest piece of shit that i can find , i'll pick something decent
but you see, when it comes to repairing a remote $10 makes a difference if it's just a cap you are replacing
if it's a $3,000 spectrum analyzer, then i agree, who gives a fuck, Ruby's all the way
so...... Certain caps for certain applications, ok
i always do the best job i can , I PRIDE MYSELF ON IT (as i imagine you do )
also you said YOU DO THE OCCASIONAL REPAIR
mate, i constantly repair shit, ok
My business relies on it , From Telecommunications equipment to satellite to TV to Internet , Modems and networking to alarms to CCTV to PSU's and so on
so a set top box or remote is not going to get the same love as an oscilloscope or Audio Amplifier
for obvious reasons
but if i open a tv or Audio amp and i see shit caps 100 FUCKING PERCENT I'LL REPLACE THEM WITH GOOD ONE'S, no question
but again, the main point was.....
Can you test caps in circuit with an ESR meter..... the answer is you can (most of the time)
and when you look at time and troubleshooting and say you have 20 caps on a board, you are not going to REALISTICALLY desolder all fucking 20
but you are careless if you say ... I'm just gonna replace them all LOL
that's like throwing darts at a dart board and hoping you get the solution
this by the way ... is arrogance, which is why you laughed
. But if a person wants a quick cheap fix I tell them to take it somewhere else and say goodbye... problem solved LOL! I
and i understand , but still, not cool
why are you an engineer if you don't want to help them
you didn't solve the problem YOU AVOIDED THE PROBLEM
also you only deal with people you know
well... i have found that to be highly unprofitable
that scenario requires you to make a decision
DO I DO THIS FOR FREE OR TELL THEM TO LEAVE
because you are not making a profit on them
so if you do it for free... SURE, GO ALL OUT
but what you described is unrealistic
i also play with shit
so during my work hours it's one frame of mind
during my weekends i play , i tinker , pull shit appart, learn , have fucking fun while downing 12 cups of coffee in a 14 hour period LOL
DO YA FEEL ME ? LOL
go a BWD CRO 20MHz, 2 channel i'm currently giving a lot of love to .
it's from the 50s
so of course i won't give it cheap chinese shit
the sky's the limit even if it exceeds the cost of the scope
but ... THAT'S CALLED HAVING FUN
Now business, thats' another can or worms
but the point is, you can certainly test caps in circuit,
ok mate
now it's fucking cool talking to you because i don't get to talk to people like you a lot
but
1. give the kid the right information
2. i love Nichicon's too, but let's not go overboard, ok
@Mr Guru
Do I ? well i reckon that i fuckin am them LOL
I just don't repair other people's stuff that often and definitely not random junk like a sh!t set top box worth 50 bucks
hey hey .... You're now talking about the high end shit...
Please mate......... $25 ok LOL
With the repair fee it's more than the cost of a new one.
yeah but people are funny like that, they get attached to their property and they repair it anyway .
it's weird but it is how it is
When I do repair other peoples stuff it's always something retro like a Commodore 64 or Amiga or an arcade game
I CAN SEE WE'RE GONNA GET ALONG JUST FINE :P
Re remotes, yeah there's not much to em
Usually coffee or coke or ... coffee. LOL spilled into it or the baby decided to dip the remote into coffee (it's always fucking coffee for some reason ) so you clean the PCB
then you have the UV LED,
then you have the cap
and then the resonator
the chip is a maybe IF IT'S REMOVABLE
i only know this shit because i used to fix my mums friends stuff when i was 10
Testing a cap in-circuit is do-able up to a point
EXACTLY , AND THAT'S ALL I WAS ASKING FOR because the young bloke probably thinks it's not even possible
of course when i repair stuff i start with in circuit testing because it's faster
if i have any doubts (as a result of my experience) of course i take it out of circuit
but it starts in circuit
need to be able to understand what you're looking at and noobs (i.e. almost everyone watching these LER vids) have no clue how to process the information that the meter shows
TOTALLY AGREE
I laugh when I see people asking about some arcade game repairs and they don't even own a multimeter LOL!
INDEED
want to hear 2 other funny one's LOL
LITERALLY TODAY
1 customer
TV Antenna job - No signal issue (we recently had really bad storms and rain here)
Hi martin, i was having signal problems and i noticed a box on my antenna pole , i think it's a booster
(right..... Booster LOL, this guy is gonna get far)
anyway
i think it's a booster.
i got up on the roof and tried to fix it then the phone rang and it started to rain and I THINK ( I love how they always THINK something happened even though they now it definitely happened)
I THINK WATER GOT INTO IT
Yeah and it did indeed , Fucked it completely
New Amplifier,
thank you very much , have a nice day
-----------------------------------------------
Client 2
Martin, my electrical wall point was really lose so i figured i'd go to bunnings
and buy a new one and replacement it myself because i reckon it's a rip off what electricians charge
but i came home and i got my screwdriver BECAUSE IT'S ONLY 2 SCREWS HOLDING IT ON
(MIND YOU , HE DIDN'T DE ENERGIZE THE CIRCUIT ....... YEAH..... HUH ? LOL )
so , it's only 2 screws and when i went to change it there was this big pop AND I GOT A BIT OF A ZAP
A BIT............... OF A ZAP huh
i then thought maybe something is wrong with my wiring so i better call you
OBVIOUSLY A SMART COOKIE LOL
BLOKE NEARLY KILLED HIMSELF, THEN DECIDES HE SHOULD CALL ME
I MEAN IS YOUR LIFE NOT WORTH $220 LOL
FUCK ME
OR.... My personal favourite
NBN Technicians (that call themselves TECHNICIAN )
yet, don't own a DMM
they can't solve a simple problem like High resistance or Open circuit and yet call themselves TECHNICIAN .
Now i used to train these blokes so i can say what i want about them
but yeah.. funny shit
now... Yes when you are learning but all means use a DMM out of circuit test capacitance and all that ,
use a cheapy component tester (i still have mine) it's cool, you learn a lot of shit from it
but it's also useful to know how to test in circuit and people need to understand what ESR is to begin with
otherwise it's pointless, as you said, they don't understand what they are looking at
Richard I have a question i like to make a dim bulb tester .. can i use hallogen bulb for that ?
Yes. One of mine has a 240V halogen lamp
@@LearnElectronicsRepair thank you
How long have you been making content?
I wish I had found you ages ago tbh.
Was the customer "screwing" with you by securing the case screws in the front panel? :D
I was wondering about measuring the voltage to the LCD and maybe there was a bad resistor keeping it dim.
Shortly after getting it running he noted with a text or title that the plastic display cover was dirty. Cleaning the cover corrected the dim display.
@@johnnytacokleinschmidt515 and you can clearly see that it didn't, he said that it works anyway you just can't see the display
@@ranbymonkeys2384 Yah, I guess I don't know. I guess one might think he'd have shown it better.
@@johnnytacokleinschmidt515 One would think to think before typing.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 I guess I didn't think you were a curmudgeon.
I wrote a nice reply to you, but I guess the moderator pulled it down.
I asked why you don't give this man the benefit of the doubt? Maybe we can't see it because of the digital camera and lighting. Good luck.
I have a snap on vantage mt2400 which won't power up could you have a look at it
Sure. email me electronicanaria@outlook.com I offer no fix no fee repair service and fixed price repairs.
15 minutes later....... "125th of the same...."
haha!
is there any chance to record inverter welder repair?
Sure if someone brings me one to repair 😉
It's not 27BR33 but KA278R33 - a 3,3V low dropout voltage regulator by Fairchild.
Thanks, someone else also posted that info, I said it was hard to read the markings. Didn't stop me diagnosing the fault though
There is always a capacitor involved
New graphics !
A part making machine
22:31
let me show you something
You said, THIS IS TELLING YOU IT'S A GOOD CAPACITOR
Based on my extensive list that i challenge each and every time i repair something
You had a 10V 100uF cap that had ESR 1.27 i think it was
well the max for that should not exceed 0.9 to be safe, the mid range for it should be 0.34 or 0.30 lets' say
so that cap is fucked
Now you brought in a 16V 100uF i suppose because you thought it was the same
LOL
well here are the values for both, you can see they are not the same on the high end
100 uF / 10 V 0.25 0.34 0.90
100 uF / 16 V 0.16 0.32 0.50
Now your one read ESR 0.54 and you concluded it was ok
NO MATE... IT'S BORDER LINE FAILURE
OK would have been 0.30
THUS PROVING THE POINT THAT WE CAN'T JUST DO THIS WILLY NILLY
AND IF WE ASSUME THINGS ARE FINE WHEN THEY ARE NOT WE THEN END UP BANGING OUR HEADS AGAINST THE ELECTRONICS WALL
Trust me, Use the list i provided and you will rarely go wrong
i have literally tested thousands of caps against each other across multiple values across multiple brands and over time across changing specifications over time
in at least the last 20 years my list has not steered me wrong EVEN ONCE
and i have repaired products that techs have brought to me and specifically said they checked the caps and it still won't work
and i checked the caps and they were faulty
i replaced them , it fixed the issue
i tore apart the caps and the Electrolytic fluid was all dried up
TRUST THE LIST
@@anshadedavana
of course it would LOL
Look through my other comments, ok
I have pasted AN ENTIRE LIST OF SOME ... i don't know maybe 150 different ratings or whatever, it's a long fucking list, i dont' know LOL
Look through my other comments , you'll see it
copy and paste it to a text doc or probably even better, straight into an excel spreadsheet, as it should just populate the correct fields
look for the comment that starts like this
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
That 10V 100uF cap is bad
the ESR was 1.27
the max acceptable range for that is 0.90............................ IT'S FUCKED
REPLACE IT
---------------------------------------------------------------------
100 uF / 10 V 100 10 0.25 0.34 0.90
---------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
scroll to the bottom of it
@@anshadedavana
Did you find it
@@anshadedavana
i just posted another post to make it easier for you to find it
it should be at the top
I'm no expert of capacitors, generally if i am uncertain I ask on badcaps.net
I am pretty good at understanding when a capacitor needs to be low ESR and when it is not important. Can I suggest you post your list of good ESR values on the LER discord repair community server? A lot of us are members on there and it is free. As well as a good place to post info like this it's also a good place to help others.
Learn Electronics Repair is now on Discord! Come and join the fun, it's free. Let's fix stuff together.
discord.gg/vam6YC8vwU
@@anshadedavana
No problem
as for maximum line limit, that only happens if you type too much, but then you can't post anyway
also it's not that long to exceed the line limit
On the close ups, I thought I was watching the hands of Bigfoot with a bad manicure.
I would think that with all that finger and knuckle hair, there would be a potential for static charge.
Best strap a copper wire to your ankle skin and ground out.
Good show!!!!
Yeah that's just the way my genetics work, can't change them so do I give a f#ck? Nope. Possibly also because my grandad was a werewolf, but he was an OK kinda guy most of the time 👹just had to be careful around the wrong time of the month. The copper ankle strap may be a good idea but I think I better avoid silver ones just in case...
Funnily enough, I find those videos where the techs wear black latex gloves most off putting, yeah they have their time and place (mostly if you are into the BDSM scene) but for fixing PCBs??? 🤔
It is not a systematic troubleshooting.
Hello Richard, you seem like the guy who could fix my issue with a powered speaker that has hissing noise. It did this since new, and I am not the only one who has this problem, could you please take a look at my video with the problem and give me some pointers what this could be? Thank you. Here is the video of the speaker: th-cam.com/video/Q_-FTna2Q74/w-d-xo.html
More prattling... You need to work on being more logical and methodical.
How to do it quick - Inspect for obvious damage, burnt elements and such. Then check fuse - right. Then check the diodes, look at what is probably a 3 terminal regulator. Power up, check ac in, transformer output, tells you what dc supply might be. Then check dc output voltages on caps. This will tell you very quickly if there is a power supply problem, which is the most likely problem.
Every one works differently. Make your own channel and do what you would do.
Then you can read the same 💩what for you wrote here . No one needs conceited super smarts one.
Shaking head 😪😓
So... Before pulling it apart, why didn't you demonstrate the problem that we are supposed to be fixing ?
Since we are counting "Things"
clearly there is a ribbon cable from the main logic board to the PCB that controls the LED Display
why didn't you mention the 3rd thing
3:22 IT DOES NOTHING
well.... Maybe leave it for longer than 2 second's maybe give it like 30 seconds minimum
IT IS A FACT THAT SOME SET TOP BOXES TAKE A WHILE TO GO THROUGH THEIR INITIAL DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS BEFORE ANY LIGHTS EVEN SHOW UP
that test right there you did, IS INVALID (longer test time is required to test power status properly )
Ermmm.... well actually I did. The front display lit up dimly with four horizontal lines, and pressing the standby/power on button didn't do anything.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair
you didn't actually
you did that AFTER you unscrewed it
you just jumped in and told us that it was faulty and opened up the case and after the case was off
only then did you do the display thing
When testing the Power you didn't give it a chance to start up or see if you have an intermittent problem, it was just , click..click You gotta give it more time
i repair these things all the time, i respect anyone who repairs electronics or is involved in it, so don't take me the wrong way
but mate, you are going way too fast
you are not troubleshooting logically
now.. if you're working on your own that's fine, you know what your'e doing
but when your'e doing a video you have to logically outline the problem you are fixing
you have to demonstrate / repeat the problem
then solve it
then demonstrate the solution
You didn't even test if the Xtal was working , this would be one of the first things you would check after checking if the fuse was ok
Basically
Check voltages, Input from mains
Output as well
Check the fuse
Check the Xtal
Wow, wasted 50mins.
Changing all the caps on the onset is not troubleshooting. It is demonstration of lack of troubleshooting knowledge and skills. Much the repair mentality of 2day.
time = money, quicker for a repair centre to blitz cap change than to try and find the single component.
@@ianhuxstep211 Not necessarily - if after blitz changing all the caps and it still doesn't work then you just wasted a lot of time achieving nothing and still have to diagnose and fix the fault. Actually I find it takes no more time generally to trace the problem in the first place than change all the caps (depending how many there are of course). This video at 50 minutes on a device I had no prior knowledge/experience of, and bear in mind I spent about 20 minutes of that time explaining it to you guys, kinda proves that point I think.
Is a stupid video ! When you power the receiver , first need to dismount the power supply and discharge big capacitor ! After that you can use ohmeter !
Wow. After 51min... still no idea whats wrong. What a waste of time watching
You might be too slow to catch it, but here is the breakdown: One of the cap (the last one) on the input side of the 3.3v voltage regulator had high ESR and low capacitance, which means the regulator couldn't function properly. The unit was fixed after replacing that cap.
@@techguy12426 Yeah like the saying says you can lead horse to water.... 😉
Greetings from Australia. Without watching any further (I am currently at 8:11), I would look closer at the capacitor C12. Looking from the top (the view from your camera), it gives me impression that it might be slightly bulging. But I am most likely wrong ( :-) ), since you would spot it by now too... I will see further... Thank you for another video, Jerry.