Nice to see you ironing, finally. But seriously: I like your way of simplifying the tuning process - when compared to scientific approach of experts e.g. from Toko. I would say that for backcountry use, this is as much as you need!
Good to know the tip with the skins :)))) I started to apply the wax different way - I put it on the iron and than rub it into the base - better area cover, easier to iron and no need to scratch so huge amount away :) (I used to apply it like u before). Nice video :))))
Missed the step where you clean the base and strip old wax and pollutant materials. That's before the wax. I believe in keeping the base as uncontaminated as possible. Little extra attention to detail is really nice.
Vidéo très clair merci! Je me demandais par contre si tu avais une liste à quelque part ou des liens web pour savoir quoi acheter. On dirait que j'entends le non des produits et je me dis ouff comment trouver tout ça! Autre question : est-ce que tu fais le même processus pour une mise au point pour une planche à neige que tu utilises sur de la neige travaillée en centre de ski?
Sur piste dames c’est la meme chose mais ca vaut le coup d’y mettre plus de precision parce que tu vas sentir les differences de manière plus marquee. Xv
Hello Xavier, Thanks for your video. I just read on Burtons website that they recommend detuning the entire inside edge of the splitboard, except for where your feet are placed in hiking position. What do you think about this? I think your idea of having a base bevel on the inside edge is a great, but detuning most of the inside edge is on another level. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I think the opposite - the angled edge is next level as the detuning will only minimize the side friction when the board is together. Detuning will help but lowering the angle on the base you still have
Depending on your conditions while touring, if you don't use splitboard crampons, then I would say having as much edge hold for side hilling is more beneficial than the minimal reduced friction on snow from the center of the board being detuned.
Video vraiment excellente, comme d'hab! Merci pour ce travail de partage. J'aurais 2 questions supplémentaires: - Qu'elle angle utilise -tu pour l'affûtage de tes carres? - A qu'elle moment utilise tu la gomme ? Est ce indispensable? Merci!
Hola Yann. pour le freeride je laisse a 90 degrés, a cause des cailloux etc. pour le six je mettais toujours 88. après des fois quand je suis motive j'enlève 0,5 sur le dessous. ca apporte vraiment de maniabilité. pour la gomme, super important pour le nose et le tail de manière progressive. attention de ne pas en abuser.
He used red & blue DMT diamond stones in this, those are their 325/Coarse & 600/Fine grits. I obviously don't know what angles he used for the bevels, but I'd guess 1°, 1.5°, 2°, maybe even 2.5° or possibly 3° for the side, but more than likely between 1° and 2°, & and probably just the stock factory like 1° for the base. Xavier, what angles do you tune your edges at, both base & side?
Good point. I don't have the exact right stone in this Video.... I use a normal stone to roughly clean the edges when I touch rocks ( which is all the time) I actually like to carry one in my pack... but other wise for the finishing of the tuning I use a diamond stone.
Hey Minh, I scrape the base as much as possible, then use a wire brush, followed by a hard plastic brush - I don't use any solution. Hope that helps. Cheers Xv
I've never detuned my boards. Is this recommended? I often ride in icy conditions and thought that its better to have a sharper edge. Should I detune them?
Detuning the nose and tail is definitely recommended. Even in icy conditions, your nose and tail edges don't cut into the snow when you're carving. They aren't necessary and just increase the chance you are going to catch and edge. In your case, I would recommend detuning your nose and tail and leaving your side edges be. If you pick up another board for riding jibs, you might want to consider detuning all the edges.
Yeah, you don't want to detune the edges you use for turning, but just after your side cut starts to turn into the nose and tail. It won't be noticeable during normal riding, but might save you from catching in some circumstances. It's not necessary, but more of a why not?
@@ayadal Don't let yourself get too frustrated when learning switch. It's well worth looking like a complete noob for the learning process because when you finally get it to click it adds so many fun possibilities to every run! Happy shredding :)
Hi - I had to check this out with Arnaud at Rossignol, but they are the same across their high end boards - Sushi and Jibsaw are the same at 1.5degrees and 90degrees. Cheers Xv
I like the love making music he played while waxing his board. It's like that was a tender act of love for his board. Hahaha :)
Right hahaha!
Nice to see you ironing, finally. But seriously: I like your way of simplifying the tuning process - when compared to scientific approach of experts e.g. from Toko. I would say that for backcountry use, this is as much as you need!
This channel is about to explode
Awesome vid mate. Proper base-care is a big part of having a good time out there.
Salut Xavier,
Merci pour la vidéo, le coup d'ajuster le carre intérieur avec de l'angle va vraiment changer ma vie!
Trop cool. Xv
Super vidéo , ça m'a fait plaisir de voir que je n'étais pas le seul à tout farter à l'universel.
HAHA... c'est clair
Well well... realy nice tutorial! I really liked the part with spitting on the file :D
All about being classy! Thanks Xv
Good to know the tip with the skins :)))) I started to apply the wax different way - I put it on the iron and than rub it into the base - better area cover, easier to iron and no need to scratch so huge amount away :) (I used to apply it like u before). Nice video :))))
Ah cool, I have never heard of that before, will give it a go. Thanks Xv
@@XVDLR So, did you give it a go?
Very informative channel, loved your background music subscribed
Great tutorial! Love your wax workshop.
This is good. Thank you Xav
excellent stuff dude, great video
XDLR - Simply the Best!
Thank you!
Missed the step where you clean the base and strip old wax and pollutant materials. That's before the wax. I believe in keeping the base as uncontaminated as possible. Little extra attention to detail is really nice.
Ah yeah, very true, thanks for the extra detail. Xv
Vidéo très clair merci! Je me demandais par contre si tu avais une liste à quelque part ou des liens web pour savoir quoi acheter. On dirait que j'entends le non des produits et je me dis ouff comment trouver tout ça!
Autre question : est-ce que tu fais le même processus pour une mise au point pour une planche à neige que tu utilises sur de la neige travaillée en centre de ski?
Sur piste dames c’est la meme chose mais ca vaut le coup d’y mettre plus de precision parce que tu vas sentir les differences de manière plus marquee. Xv
Hello, nice movie. About the brush. Do you use the copper with strap, before and after farting or do you use severals (nylon, horsehair)? Thx
I use it before and after, but very gently, I use either nylon or metal depends what i have to hand!.
Hello Xavier, Thanks for your video. I just read on Burtons website that they recommend detuning the entire inside edge of the splitboard, except for where your feet are placed in hiking position. What do you think about this? I think your idea of having a base bevel on the inside edge is a great, but detuning most of the inside edge is on another level. Any thoughts or suggestions?
I think the opposite - the angled edge is next level as the detuning will only minimize the side friction when the board is together. Detuning will help but lowering the angle on the base you still have
Depending on your conditions while touring, if you don't use splitboard crampons, then I would say having as much edge hold for side hilling is more beneficial than the minimal reduced friction on snow from the center of the board being detuned.
Video vraiment excellente, comme d'hab! Merci pour ce travail de partage. J'aurais 2 questions supplémentaires:
- Qu'elle angle utilise -tu pour l'affûtage de tes carres?
- A qu'elle moment utilise tu la gomme ? Est ce indispensable?
Merci!
Hola Yann. pour le freeride je laisse a 90 degrés, a cause des cailloux etc. pour le six je mettais toujours 88. après des fois quand je suis motive j'enlève 0,5 sur le dessous. ca apporte vraiment de maniabilité.
pour la gomme, super important pour le nose et le tail de manière progressive. attention de ne pas en abuser.
apres si tu as un lama diamant apres l'affutage ca enleve vraiment bien le fil
@@xavierdelerue537 Super merci pour ces précisions! Au top!
This is a great video! Simple and to the point. What type of stones are you using? Also, what angle do you generally set your file to?
He used red & blue DMT diamond stones in this, those are their 325/Coarse & 600/Fine grits. I obviously don't know what angles he used for the bevels, but I'd guess 1°, 1.5°, 2°, maybe even 2.5° or possibly 3° for the side, but more than likely between 1° and 2°, & and probably just the stock factory like 1° for the base. Xavier, what angles do you tune your edges at, both base & side?
Good point. I don't have the exact right stone in this Video.... I use a normal stone to roughly clean the edges when I touch rocks ( which is all the time) I actually like to carry one in my pack... but other wise for the finishing of the tuning I use a diamond stone.
@@xavierdelerue537 Brilliant thanks!
Xavier....what do you do to clean the base before waxing? Do you hot wax it or clean it with any kind of solution? Thanks in advance
Hey Minh, I scrape the base as much as possible, then use a wire brush, followed by a hard plastic brush - I don't use any solution. Hope that helps. Cheers Xv
I've never detuned my boards. Is this recommended? I often ride in icy conditions and thought that its better to have a sharper edge. Should I detune them?
Detuning the nose and tail is definitely recommended. Even in icy conditions, your nose and tail edges don't cut into the snow when you're carving. They aren't necessary and just increase the chance you are going to catch and edge. In your case, I would recommend detuning your nose and tail and leaving your side edges be. If you pick up another board for riding jibs, you might want to consider detuning all the edges.
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to try this out this season.
Yeah, you don't want to detune the edges you use for turning, but just after your side cut starts to turn into the nose and tail. It won't be noticeable during normal riding, but might save you from catching in some circumstances. It's not necessary, but more of a why not?
Thanks for the recommendations!! I think this might help a bit when I practice riding switch.
@@ayadal Don't let yourself get too frustrated when learning switch. It's well worth looking like a complete noob for the learning process because when you finally get it to click it adds so many fun possibilities to every run! Happy shredding :)
Will detuning the nose affect how well my edge holds in ice?
no because it won't have contact with the snow when its hard but will surely be annoying when the snow is grippy
What is the factory base and side bevel angle for Rossignol Sushi & Jibsaw? Thanks!
Hi - I had to check this out with Arnaud at Rossignol, but they are the same across their high end boards - Sushi and Jibsaw are the same at 1.5degrees and 90degrees. Cheers Xv
@@XVDLR Thanks a lot! You are the best!!