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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Screw Drive Tractor.....Well....what can i say. It's time to get back in screw mode again. This machine has won the battle a couple of times but now It is my turn to win! Winter is coming, and i think it's the time to get this thing working once and for all.
I admire your tenacity! It doesn't go far, it doesn't go fast, and it breaks a lot, but, you hang in there! I think I would have said, "Screw this!" some time ago! But, I guess that's what you said, too! ;-)
As my father always says to me "if it broke a 100 times, fix it a 1,000 times and keep going. Nice work, best of luck.
Good going! I like watching man and machine....this is how the world was built. Who knows what this can lead to, even a revolution in sea to landing craft.
+G Thomper thanks!
Love a good backyard build. You are very talented to get where you are with the project. The new cylinders with the cones will relieve a lot of stress on the drivetrain. The longer the cone, the less plowing effect = less stress. Can't wait for next test.
Thank for the comments! One good thing about starting with my poorly designed screws is that i got to see thecweak points in my drivetrain....the hard way i suppose. Thanks for watching!
I saw the Fordson Screwmotor video years ago and thought about how cool that was. One thing I noticed back when I first watched it was how large the pods were (diameter) and how small the flights were. I was noticing that even though the flights were pretty small, it moved very well. I think that the flotation is the whole key. Think about how a snow mobile tread is and works. the ridges in the tread are not that big, but the tread is very wide, giving a lot of flotation, and yet the small ridges in the tread will propel it through the snow like crazy. I think you are on the right path. More flotation, large cones on the front, and smaller flights will lessen the stresses on your whole machine, because it will be floating on top of the surface, not plowing through it. Great job!! I can't wait to see the upgrades!!
+Doyou Believeit yes I agree with you, i think the new screws help lots. thanks for the input!
this video showed up on my recommended so glad I decided to watch it dont stop doing what your doing its awesome
+Dan Polka thanks for the kind words!
It's good to see you hadn't given up on this build dude, keep at it and it come right in the end :-)
+UkWheelHorseBloke thanks for the support
+UkWheelHorseBloke I feel the same way! For me, and huge part of the joy of watching this is the process! When stuff breaks it's a challenge. REDNIC79 you are truly a remarkable dude!
+Uncle Mullet thanks man, we are on the same wavelength. its no the end its the journey right?
One of the main problem is dirt in your chain, don't disregard that. It's not just the torque or the load on the screws.
Them bearing are way stronger then that...
I agree that you would benefit from larger tanks and say do it but that thing broke because rocks and dirt got in between the chain and sprocket. That is what ripped that thing apart.
That thing had no problems until the back end of that screw buried your driven sprocket. Think about it.
Where's all the chain tension going to go?
Glad to see it up and running. Keep at it! Thing is way cool!
+BigEsGarage yeppers...your 100% right....bigger screws, chain guards and shear pins is the plan
Ahh. Shear pins, good call.
I'm actually about to replace some on my tractor.
Broke em yesterday, LOL!
+BigEsGarage yeah the funny this is the shear pins never crossed my mind till another youtuber advised me to use them. and I said...duh, why didn't I think of that?
Nice work. I cant believe the stress it puts on itself. I guess thats why they only used them on snow.
Part 12 - The Screws Strike Back. Keep at it!
Wonderful! So glad to see this move again. It's too unique to give up on it!
+davida1hiwaaynet glad you got a kick out of it, it's a fun project thats keeping me thinking anyhow :)
love the hood ornament , lol. good update
This is hilarious ! It's amazing what things people can dream up to waste their time !
I am glad to see you back at it and I am sure you will succeed with perseverance.
Honestly, no fucking clue how I got here, But I watched the build videos. Epic. Great that nothing has really stopped you with it. Just made what ever broke work and moved on with the build
love it man, manitoba just got tractors laying all over the place to play with :)
Interesting!! Love your mini excavator.Good job
wow. way cool, man.
I think you're on the right track switching to hydraulics.
1) it'll make your overall drive train easier to fab, reroute and adjust as needed.
2) more fluid (pun intended) drive control and no wasted energy by using a brake.
3) dump the transmission and run the pump off the engine = less weight and better pump control.
4) the pressure regulators will help prevent excessive torque going to the screws and you can ramp it up slowly as your testing progresses.
Awesome. I'm more impressed with your perseverance despite the many setbacks.
+Michael Hawk thanks buddy! yeah i know hydro is the way 2 go....thought i'd try i the hard way first....hehe. thanks for watchin!
The original Ford screw drive had large cylinder drives. The larger drives help keep the drive gear out of the mud. Hydraulic would probably be less likely to clog up and place unwanted stress on your drive system. You'll get it.
+Brad Taylor yeah thats the direction i'm going now. thanks for the encouragement!
I like the salvaged lawn mower idea. I might try that.
counter the rotation, watching this and the time though the mud. the biggest problem is loading up with crap under it from the rotation of the pods. and so it needs to be higher because the moment you hit any incline and it digs in with it dumping cap under you at at the back it shoves the whole set of moving parts into the dirt and that's where the problem of load is coming from. I really hope to see you beat this problem because that is a bloody cool peace of transport !
les extreme fins.. I love stuff like this. I wish I had your welding skill. I keep every bracket and pc of spare metal I get for God knows what. I would like to do stuff like this for fun
+Maniacal Offroad yeah i am the same way....nothing metal gets thrown out! hehe. thanks for watching
Just stumbled on this video - Cool build! Sure is depressing to have to see your rig get towed out of a spot with another machine! I like the propane tank screw better. I also feel that if the screw was more football shaped you would have easier steering. Good luck!
Awesome garden tiller
I love it good job !! great tune also..
+laddie kelly thanks for watching! reggae all the way!
Keep at 'er buddy, you'll get something that works if you keep trying!
+MacbthPSW thanks man!
I am still watching and I think you should try to use automotive wheel hub and bearings on the end of your screws - they are cheap , strong and everywhere. As far as climbing you will need a bit more speed to keep it traveling forward or it will become a trencher. It looks like tree planters should be following you to increase there tree planting numbers per day. Maybe you have invented a tree planters tool. Good luck n keep your stick on the ice - we are in your corner.
You better start wearing a Helmet You Speed Demon !!!
lo it broke!
nice build
i just finished reading that thesis. thanks for that, it was great!.
so basically if i want a screw vehicle to be effective on sand it has to utilize the lateral/rolling forces of a screw.
seems like the obvious answer is to have a quad-screw setup, with each screw able to be pivoted at its midpoint. so you can use the diamond or cross configuration when needed.
there are lots of options the guy did not test as well. for example having all four crews at a 45degree angle and parallel. essentially having the vehicle in a sort of trimaran configuration with a long split cental screw with a smaller outrigger screw on each side.
essentially, being able to pivot the screws seems like its the only way to get good locomotion on all surfaces...
+Axtinguisher yeah, there is lost of good info in there, especially the old Chrysler stuff. pivoting screw would make a huge difference, you are right. I'm still trying to just get some good motion on mainly flat surfaces. I also like the ratio he gives you for blade height vs screw diameter
She was looking good!
Thats the most amazing thing iv'e ever seen
Darn almost had it ripping! Maybe doubled up with shielded bearings (one load and one thrust bearing) could help on the axial stresses caused by those screws. Also thinks the Hydraulics would be more better!!!
Glad to see the mud drill back and screwing around again haha cheers!
+ATK 11 yeah I think i'll put lager bearings on the new screws. thanks!
keep at it. i think the larger screws with smaller fins and possibly more fins for more places of pull could get you there.
Hi! Nice project-sad that it broke again.... i wouldnt recommend using those bigger in diameter gasbottles.ok the will go faster,but the torque will also getting bigger. i would try to make stronger steel housings around the castironed housing of the "screw" bearings and
add 60 °cones on both sides of the "screw" to reduce resistance going for/backward.
sry for my english,im from austria :D good luck !
awesome to see your back to it!
+danny sulyma thanks man!
Yeah bro that thing is sweet!! Keep at it!!
Well at least you know you have enough power. One step at a time. I could see this thing with a nice snowthrower on it one day. :)
DO IT AGAIN!!!! LOVE IT! You need bigger screws I think.
Ты молодец! Удачи тебе! И подписка.
Great experiment. The blades need to turn in the opposite direction to keep the dirt from piling up under the tractor and the blades need to be about twice as wide.
Insane, Crazy But I loved it.
I'm enjoying watching your build, it's a great idea for a project! While viewing, I did have a thought... Have you considered switching out your gearing for the front differential and drive axles from a front wheel drive? You would have pretty much what you need with the addition of having your braking system for steering. I would think it could tolerate the stresses better. Just an idea. I can't wait to see your continued progress!
Cool! But it's not only the torque . You dig it in until I can't spin anymore. So keep it on flat surfaces only and it will work. OR mount some half bullet head in front of the pods so it can't dig in anymore.
Very impressed, please keep going! I know just that feeling of having a 2nd, 3rd, 4th prototype fail, but what your doing is pretty damn cool and also pretty unique so I really hope your able to make it work!
+clive coney thanks for the input! i most definitely will not stop now.....i'm too frickn close!!! thanks for watchin!
complimenti optimo lavoro !!!!!!
Great job so far. I hope the screws with cones work out for you.
The bigger diameter pods will probably help. But what you may want to add is a bigger diameter gear. Instead of two smaller diameter gears with the chain put a larger diameter gear in the middle. You may have to add another set of chains but that could alieviate the torque problems on the smaller gears.
Cool stuff! Can't wait to see what's next
+Cr125stin thanks for watchin
additional.. if you decide to do the taurus front bearings. get the bearing.. get the outer CV joint boot and the axle.. don't worry about inside joint... weld a piece of pipe to that inner shaft so you can stick the pipe and the outer joint into the back of the propane tank.. this will allow flexability of the tanks verses your chain drive .. i hope you get this..
A road grader would be cool now ,you should build one !!
+laddie kelly neat idea, it would be fun to play with for sure!
Молодец! Все ок !
Но поставь вместо цепей гидро моторы. Шаг шнека нужно уменьшить и добавить обороты.
тогда твоя машина возможно и поедет )
If you look at the Fordson, the weight is balanced in the middle. Yours is balanced too far back, so it won't work in the snow-you'll flip it as soon as the back starts digging into the snow. The front end will come up. You need to have the screws extend farther in the back or have more weight in the front. I think you'd need 2' in diameter pods. Maybe you could put the gear on a spline running the length of the pod about 2-3' back from the end and the back end of the pod on a floating wishbone extending from the back of the tractor? I think the Fordson was too top heavy as well. Maybe there's some way of flattening it? Don't give up!
You need bigger tanks.
Great job so far though.
Glad to see your back at it. Did you ever run this in high gear yet? The reason I ask is the flights you have on now are real aggressive and it's not too fast. It will really cut down your speed a lot with closer flights. It will also cut down the amount of stress on the system too, which I can see is a necessity at this point. I think the new pod idea is a good one. You will need more clearance to keep those chains out of the dirt. You may have even got a rock in the chain that wiped out that bearing. Just be careful cutting into those big propane tanks . I had one that size that I filled with water and drained twice, and it still contained twenty seconds worth of flammable blue flame shooting out. I know there is a mixture of stuff to add to the water, but you can look that up on youtube . Keep us posted and thanks for the show. Joe
+mazdalorean hmmmm...thanks for the advise on the tanks, i always thought the water thins was good 2 go....i'll look in to that for sure. i've gone into 3rd gear on this video (of 4) . the larger tanks and going to be less agressive as far as the screw pitch, but the extra diameter will make them spin faster (surface of screw relative to the ground) if i were to make the screws every 16inches same as the ones i have now, the speed will be the same, but the screw blade will travel twice as far to move that distance. (i hope this makes sense) ...and so it goes......calculate? errrr...... i think i'll correct with gear changes if i have to. i need to do some research on screw size/pitch and the force required to turn them.
Yup I would go with hydro-static, much larger pods, and much taller screws as well my friend. (you could, and should go to direct hydro drive.
I hope you get it worked out pretty cool machine
+George Pratt thanks! yeah i'll get it going if it kills me...hehe
Dude, you look pretty cool cruisin on your rig. Great vids, great music, great fun! I can't see your hearing protection though......What????
to support the ends of your rollers... at least the drive end.. use 96 to 2007 ford taurus front wheel bearing assemblies.. they can be had cheep in the junk yards... get the outer CV joint also.. knock the inner race out and you can weld that to your tank ends.. so you can have a chain sprocket on the wheel studs.. i would think that you might want to design chain guides out if C channel.. or just make a ping pong paddle on the end of some of the square stock you used for the front lets.. with guides for the chains... remember you are going to a larger propane tank.. so you will need larger sprockets to keep your gear reduction going.. this makes it really strong.. on the chain drive end.. and it all bolts together or comes apart in minutes..
if you use the same wheel bearings on the front of the new propane tanks.. you could do the same thing at the front.. but use the taurus wheel studs to bolt on cones.. like a spinner nose on a propeller. you will have to worry about getting something stuck in the gap.. but.. you could fill it with a lollypop on the end of the leg. just ideas..
lastly don't forget.. that you want to make the blades taller in the middle of the tanks.. gives it a better chance of rocking back and going up the slopes.. instead of digging in..
Maybe your getting rocks in the chain? And that's why it broke off. Try covering the chains and gears and stuff? Just a thought.. Good Luck with it Looks like your having fun....
I'm not sure of your budget but I'd imagine that 2 hydraulic motors attached at the rear end of each screw would work well
+brenton harper yeah I think that would be ideal, not sure how to figure out how big of a pump/motor i would need though. thanks for the comment
+REDNIC79 Maybe get one out of a hydraulic press? Those are small but quite powerful. If you have scrap yards around you, those are excellent places to find stuff like this. If you do find one, be sure to salvage the proportional valves too, those are very, very important. And even if those are broken, you could probably find rebuild kits online, much, much cheaper than buying one new, or even a second hand one.
At the yard you buy them for scrap value, heck, if you're lucky, you can buy them for a pack of beer.
Oh and i'd probably go for bigger pods, you could make them out of two propane tanks (there are some slightly longer tanks than the regular barbecue kind).
Oh and another thing, put skids in the front. Rounded skids that match the contour of the pods, otherwise, you'll break the poor thing again.
My believe is this could be a great idea just need to redesign now u have an idea on where the weak links are.. very cool just the same ! !
You need to exchange the corkscrew right to left, left to right, and reverse chain rotation to prevent bury.
I think your problem is from the mud pushing the chains off the sprockets. In video 10 you can hear them clicking when you start up the hill, which put the rear down into the mud harder. That chain knot in video 10 is what did the damage to the transmission.
Concept is good, but you need to work on the chain drive path so it is more protected.
Larger screws will help, sprocket will be higher above the ground, but will not eliminate mud taking the chain off the sprocket.
+Dave Sponaugle yeah I agree with you, i hope the larger screws with a less aggressive fin will help keep the stuff out of the chains. thanks for the input!
You might want to weld the helical screw fins on the tanks going in the opposite direction. I noticed that the current configuration piled dirt up underneath the vehicle as it moved forward. If the screws coiled around the tanks in the opposite direction,it would push the dirt to the outside of the vehicle, instead of piling it up under it and fouling the chains.
+Steve Robinson yeah in hindsight you are right, but to chance that now would be lots of work. if I go to hydraulics someday, I will swap them side to side, good eye! thanks for watching!
Dude, glad you didn't give up. Good idea going to bigger screws, I'd recommend cones on both ends to allow for uneven ground. hydraulics can be pricey, I know, but they would make life a lot easier. Keep at it, don't let any one dissuade you, and keep posting vids. BTW, was that a can of Lucky I saw?
+ducks Garage hehe...yes lucky, saving for hydraulics hehe, jokin. yeah I think I will come front and rear. thanks for the support!
Good build, and it looks promising for useful purpose, but the bearings, support and box section tubing are way below whats required all round. Your use of curved braces need either much thicker steel, or some box section welded to the back of them also. The whole thing just needs beefing up alot more etc but acheived way more that I could ever manage on this good stuff
Don't give up, you are close.
Look at your video as you started up the hill. I am going to say a small rock was between the chain and sprocket which caused it to pop the bearing.
You seem to have the most trouble with the right screw. When you look at the chain drive path the right chain is much flatter than the left chain drive path, more chance to get debris between the chain and sprocket. Any chance you can get the right path up steeper like the left chain drive path?
Also the flat front on the screw cylinder is causing it to dig in more than it needs to, which is also causing the rear of the cylinder to be down in the dirt farther, more chance for debris in the chain path.
Look for a video of 1929 Fordson snow machine.
Conical fronts and a tapered rear on the screw cylinders.
Large diameter cylinders.
Slightly less aggressive screw pitch on the cylinders.
Yes the Fordson is on snow with less sliding resistance, but notice the screw tracking where he went forward and backwards, and then compare that to the video of your screw tracking. Several places your screw is chewing up several extra inches in slippage on each rotation of the screw.
larger cylinders with tapered ends and more flotation will help with that.
As mentioned earlier, would make a great tiller...as long as there is 0 grade to the plot. Seems as soon as you get grade, the screws start pushing material backwards, the drive chains and gears (sprockets) get a bunch of material built up around them because they ride so low and it's too much torque for that linkage system to transfer, hence busted and twisted shit.
Hi Mate,
I've been doing a lot of research on screw drives recently. Can't find much info on performance in sand... Apparently the chrysler screw vehicles failed miserably in sand...
Really interested in seeing how your larger diameter screw with smaller fins goes...
Intuitively i would have thought even bigger fins would be the way to go so they act more like a scoop, like a sand tyre etc...
Keep us posted!
+Axtinguisher another crazy person in the world researching srew drive? hehe, jokin. my thinking is that the larger screws will provide more flotation in sand/snow. I think the size if the fins is not as important as I first thought. if the screw is working properly the blade of the fin should not be pushing the sand it should be 'slicing' through it. we will see I guess....mainly i want to try to and cut down on how much it digs in and keep it above ground. check out this article, its a good read. scholarcommons.usf.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=4774&context=etd
+REDNIC79
cool ill give it a read.
i like building things some people may call crazy. if you check out my channel youll see a trebuchet i made when i was 16 haha.
i live in a coastal area with lots of sand and waterways. so i was thinking of making a screw vehicle to traverse the waterways and move along beaches.
i was thinking of making the screws out of steel 44gallon drums. fairly light compared to the diameter. i was thinking a 6inch fin may have more purchase on loose sand and especially be better in water.
i was thinking of only having the fins do one rotation per 1 yard length to increase top speed. but also have multiple tracks of fins, or even 2, like a double helix to keep the pushing surface area up even with less rotations per yard of the screw.
Looking forward to more updates!
That chain system looks like the inside of a watch haha. Going to be hard to enclose those chains enough to keep small rocks from getting wedged in there. You had plans originally of using 90 degree gear boxes didn't you? Maybe a rethink on that idea?
+Gearheadtom I think I'm going to start by making larger pods to get the chains up higher, then go from there. also winter is coming here, so snow shouldn't disturb the chains as much. thanks for the comments!
Hoping to see it on some snow. I'm guessing the coefficient of friction is lower on it than on dirt/gravel. Butif you can get a design to survive on gravel you can guarantee it will be good to go on other surfaces.
+stumanengineering thats kinda what I'm thinkin, thanks for watchin
This is old Tech, still very interesting !!!
Remember seeing a old ford N series with this on going through the snow !!!
i think you just need a stronger motor man... the screws have to much give way.. u need a motor thats gonna keep thos screws turning at all times in the tough stuff...good work man keep it up
*Have you had a chance to get it going with the new screws?*
Looking forward to seeing it in the winter , we have some kickass snow to try her in this year lol
Be cool with a little diesel on her lol (i have some spare diesels engines that would work i could make you a deal on one :)
+StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com still workin on it, i have not got the screws finished yet. should make some progress soon i hope! yeah diesel would be cool, even just for some black smoke shooting up the stack!
+REDNIC79 if you ever want a diesel for dirt cheap at my cost just drop me a PM or Find me on FB
facebook.com/starpuss (just say what your TH-cam channel is)
no shipping would be involved seeing we are local to each other.
+StarPuss www.ToxicRedNeck.Com cool, thanks, you get new ones? or good used?
I only got new ones in 6Hp right now , Would give you lots of power for that , also work good for when you make her hydrostatic
this reminds me of sonic the hedgehog, the bad guys vehicle, You need to put something around it for the driver, to go underground, put a screw in the middle front
gotta have that music...........................one of them contraptions would be good too
What is that GREAT MUSIC starting in this clip? Kwel stuff 4 sure
- thank you
You are my hero sir! I believe the Canadian Forces was experimenting with Archimedes screw all terrain vehicles in the 1950s through 1960s. Of course their test vehicles were much larger. I don't design such things but do you think the mounting brackets for your screws could be made larger and stiffer? I am thinking they need good support to resist torqueing. Greetings from Nova Scotia. subbed
+martK banjoboy hello nova scotia! nice to hear from ya! yeah the new pods are going to have larger and stronger bearings. i think my main issue at this point is keepin rocks out of the chains. thanks for checkin it out! and the sub!
you have to keep the chains out of the dirt. taller screws for sure.rocks are your cause they jam the sprocket and snap bolts,bend shafts, so on and so on...
+Derk Sali yeah that's the new plan with larger pods, thanks for the comments!
A chain can't ingest rocks and dirt like that it needs to be covered.
Why not get a 4WD setup where the screws are powered evenly from the front and the back to relieve some of the stress from powering it from 1 end only?
Hi you have your screws driving out when they should be driving in it would create less torque
It would be nice to make it move sideways, too.
A perpendicular, vertical screw would be nice for punching out ice fishing holes instead of using the manual auger.
:) powered by a large man on cross county skis eating quiche and drinking lucky towing a rope wrapped around a shaft attached to the auger?
+REDNIC79 That sounds like a lot of manual labor, better bring sum extra quiches so our energy stores are maxed out for hammering Bass
if you can replace the chain sprockets with bigger ones that will help you reduce the torsion torque. they are way too small good build byt the way
thats what I call screwing around !!!!
If you had larger screws, you would actually be pushing less torque, then the smaller ones, even though the larger ones are heavier. The small ones cause way too much friction, and your weight is distributed over a small area. The more you lower your PSI, the less friction you will get, for the most part, you want the threads to dig in, but the root to glide on top. You can only achieve that if your PSI is low enough, aka BIGGER screws, the size of those screws, will absolutely depend on two things, loaded weight of machine, and what kind of load your expecting to haul.
You also need to consider thread pitch, that very well might be adding undue stress to the powertrain. I would consider trying a less aggressive pitch, but overall pitch should be calculated with weight, HP, torque, and rigidity in mind. I think you would be better off decreasing pitch, while increasing RPMs, it would decrease stress, while allowing for better shock recovery when you hit a large rock.
+Michael G yep, i'm thinkin along the same lives now as well. thanks for the suggestions!
Nice work, but your screw are wrong, the screw have to be with 3 or more beginnings, and your screw step are very big for this engine. Good luck. ... I want to build one too.
looks like tractional/longitudinal movement is pretty much impossible on sand. as the friction from the cylinder always outweighs the push of the blades, no matter what size.
ive encountered this with my airboat. even with a chev 502ci, it wont budge on sand...
I see small farm use - easy. Should be able to till with it.
I think it needs more traction on the skrews in between the spiral so it could go faster
rear needs some support under it maybe a guide tire under the middle when u first started out it squat a few inches i recon that will mess up your chain tension i don't know something to look into :D
+classof19872006 yeah, it actually dug into the ground, not flex in the arms. that's why I want more floatation. thanks!
cool cool cant wait to see more updates
Not only was the machine and video kwel, the music at the beginning was super duper as well.
Would you please share the names of the bands or tunes played in Care to share some of the
bands or names of the video you made called "Screw Drive Vehicle - Extreme Off Road - Part 11 - A New Hope"
Thank you kindly
scott burry
+Scott Burry i hate to disapoint you (being a music man myself) but the music is just some "free" reggae songs that youtube provides us to your in our videos, copyright free. i love reggae so i threw them on there! thanks for watching!
REDNIC79
OK which one was it It was great. I like free and copyright free, but I need a hint on where to get the tune... Where did you get it? What list, what web site? Who provided it to you. please provide some guidance. thanks man
+Scott Burry JR Tundra Natty Roadster / Mountain Dub - Gunnar Olsen ....its on youtube
REDNIC79
GREAT= That was it. Thanks
makes a good tiller
lol
Was thinking the same thing ;)
should work a bit better after the upgrade will be watching for future videos
original machine
looks like a cool rig but isn't a bit under powered?
Could you make it able to move sideways?
+Jaakko Laurila I would need to be able to drive one screw the opposite way. it would be possible, but a bit of work. thanks for the ideas!
what was it before you made it into that? ride on mower?
+maxx scott yeah, it was a garden tractor. check out "part 1" thanks for watching! and the great comments