Installation of new Roamer Lithium under seat battery into my Adria Twin SGX640 campervan uksitefinder.c... @roamervans roamerbatterie... #motorhomer #roamer #lithium
Big thumbs up Steve! This is a really nice set up and great explanation of how you did it. All motorhomes should be set up like this from factory. Who wants lead acid battery these days, I'm so happy with our modification.
Thanks. Totally agree. Lead acid is about 80 year old tech and the price of a new van you would think victron controllers and lithium should be standard. Still waiting for weekend to try it all out.
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures 200Ah in this format is plenty of power. Since you have the compressor fridge it is great. We have been camping for some weekends now with heater on and still we have great marginal with our 160+ Ah. even if I've been out for like 4 days we have never been under 100Ah remaining capacity when we start up to drive home. This without solars. In to weeks I will go on a moose hunt trip north and this will be the test since I will be out for some more days, but I move the van every day then. Heater will run more or less constantly. But as it looks now I can be camping for a week or so without charging. Summertime it is a exaggeration of capacity for our use and set up. Only thing I can see that change this is if I install a inverter to charger computers and stuff, which I plan to do next.
@@Braapncamp I did a quick current test and with all lights on fridge running from cold and heater just starting up I am pulling around 20 amp. Obviously the fridge will not run constant and heater will switch on/off and I would not have lighting and TV on 24/7 so agree it will be ok. We have 300 watts solar so could go for ever. The B2B is charging on engine at 30A which is amazing as with lead acid I was luck to get near 10A. For laptops etc I use DC to DC converter as they are extremely efficient. Only thing I see an inverter use for is microwaves or electronic toasters etc which we never use. For now I am hoping I will never need EHU as my EBL is now disconnect from charging. I may look at an engine batt charger if it causes a problem but it should hold up for a month at a time
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Yes, the Webasto takes ca 10A momentarily for a minute or so. Set it on eco and it will run with lower rpm or just lower the allowed fan speed, that makes it heat more countinous and more effektive than on max fan with start and stop as result. It runs on 1-2 amps when running continously. I've seen yiur videos on the dc-dc subject for TV or Computer, i agree on this option since i never use 240v otherwise. I need to look into this again. The TV that i allready have but never mounted in this van runs with 12V socket.
Great vlog bud, it’s good to see and understand that you can’t just drop in a lithium battery, I just wish the lithium battery manufacturers would be more honest with us all. Well done 👍
Totally agree, Steve at Roamer is very good and pointed out that charging on GEL will void a warranty if it causes damage. It's possible that it will not cause damage as GEL voltage it correct for lithium but the absorption charging is about 4 hours more than the battery is designed for. Some manufacturers will say is all ok but if you ask them to email a guarantee on the battery charging on GEL setting most will go quiet. For the cost its not worth the risk.
Thanks, everyone has there own skill set. Main thing with these vans being electric fridge etc is to look at upgrading the solar if you want to get away from electric hook up.
It shows me that dealer work can be sub standard ,that junction box was poor .This set up looks professional and its something i need to look into when i get my new Experdition 67 next month.Their basic 12v charging system and a tiny 75 AH leisure battery won't be good enough.
Totally agree I found a lot cables cut through insulation to core conductors. Loose cables etc. There has been a lot of reports of Facebook of poor dealer practise. 75aH battery seems very low for a van setup. I think for the price of the vans they should be fitting lithium as standard. Lead acid batteries are 80 years old technology why are we still using them when lithium prices are so much cheaper now
My experience of dealers working on electrics like you is very negative. I had mains electric sockets installed in a new van by a very well known alarm supplier and after market kit supplier. The electrics were done with hard wire, twin and earth, not flex and no cable clamps use at the terminal points. As well as cable being brought out though an access panel and the panel screwed back on top of the cable. A dealership in Lowdham also supplied a new van with an air con that didn’t work, checked it and then said go to Spain and if it’s not working get a local engineer to repair and we’ll reimburse! I didn’t instead I contacted the manufacturer who had a repair and distribution point in the U.K. They confirmed the unit was faulty and replaced it under warranty. I asked if they could give me a note to take back to the dealership saying it was faulty and was told they could only say it was faulty on the day they inspected but couldn’t say it was faulty before that. So frankly I wouldn’t trust any dealership and if I wasn’t an electrician, I’d employ one.
I had to read your first line twice I thought you meant I was a dealer😂. Totally agree with your comments. Not all dealers are poor. In the end if its your van you will most probably put more care into getting a job done correct. So far I have found a few things that are poorly wired or damaged cables so I never agree when people say you must use a dealer. Any competent electrician or electrical engineer can do just as good a job if not better
Cracking video as usual - very informative and clear. I'm looking to make some upgrades to our campervan power setup (lithium batteries, B2B, solar, etc.) and just wondered if you had a simple schematic of your setup? We have an Autocruise (Swift) so won't be the same but I could (shamelessly!) steal some of your mod ideas!
I can do but not sure how to add it to youtube. If you are on facebook you can join campervanelectrics Steve Kennedy from Roamer runs the group and will help with any installation you are doing. Lots of good advice on this group.
Very useful and informative video. I am now embarking on a similar upgrade to my 2020 Auto-Sleeper. One question: did you any modification to the alternator cabling. I've read a lot about inadequate cable sizes used by manufacturers. Or is it OK as long as a DC-DC charger is fitted.
No upgrade to alternator required if you have DC-DC fitted. My DC-DC limits current to 30A which is ok for this alternator. With out the DC-DC you will be putting a lot of strain on alternator and all the vans wiring. If you have a very low lithium battery it may want to draw hundreds of amps which will only be restricted by cables and alternator so a DC-DC I believe is vital for safety of your van
Fellow electrical engineer, that dealer 230v was shocking, and clearly not to regs, very naughty. PS: the app you show with the speedo type display, current etc, is that Victron or something else, and I assume it’s reading the shunt?
Totally agree about dealership workmanship. I get comments from people saying any work like this should be carried out by a dealer as they are apparently the professionals. If anything like were I work it will be the young guys just past out carry out this kind of work and probably less experienced than myself. This is why I was showing the dodgy work by the dealer. As for the app, its Roamers lithium battery BMS app. Mainly only used to see the battery status but I always use my TR-16 gauge which is more accurate and reliable and reads the shunt
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Ah so its Roamer, I was thinking "doesn't look Victron but I like it". Sadly as much as id love the roamers, out of my current budget sadly. Sticking with old school lead for a while longer. Yes ive asked for help on some forums about Victron gear and had 2-3 replies of "get a professional to do it".. Hmm 33yrs in electrical engineering I think I be ok! haha
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Hi there, just wondering if your Adria Twin is a 2020 model, as we are wanting to do the same on an Adria Twin 600spb 2020. We currently have a 2016 Adria twin with a 3 way fridge that has been completely brilliant for off grid, but have an issue going forward, as we are ready to get a newer van, but they no longer seem to fit 3 way fridges. Thanks
Hi Deborah. I have the 2021 model but this will be the same as the 2020 and pretty much same as most builds with respect to electrics. All new models like you say have the 12v fridge. It not easy to convert to a gas fridge due to ventilation and in my opinion the 12v compressor fridges are more superior in working in all temperatures. You have two options with the new Adria’s. Install extra solar min 300 watts and leave AGM battery fitted. Only internal upgrade needed will be the MPPT. An additional second AGM will not need any alteration to the van. Second option will be to fit lithium and extra solar. New vans will come with B2B fitted so you should be OK with just a straight switch over on the battery and can install a lithium electric hook up charger instead using the EBL. I am on the Adria FB group if you want to get in touch through there.
Hi, I’m just viewing all your Vlogs now and it’s brilliant as everything I really wanted to be able to do to my Adria Twin SGX640 is what you have done, the challenge I seem to be facing is the fact my dealer says no to being able to do many things and sadly I don’t have the skills like you to do it myself. As you have so much knowledge and experience on this type of thing do you think I could just shop around for approved dealers to be able to do the work or would I have to use the dealer I purchased from so that I don’t effect much warranty? Any help or advice on this would be great. Thanks Sacha
Problem with new vans any work carried out that is not covered by an approved engineer will void any warrant. You have to way up if the warranty is more important than the cost of work needed to be carried out. For me. All the electrical work will be void of any warranty but I would take on the work to fix anyway rather than go to the dealer. The rest of the van and components like fridge, heater will be covered under there own warranty. If you want to fit lithium etc you can get any electrical engineer approved to be able to carry out camper van or auto electrical work. This should not affect the warranty. You can try having a word with Steve Kennedy at Roamer as he was trying to get a list of approved installers in UK or join the campervan electrical FB group and post on there if anyone knows of any engineers. In all cases check the person you are using is ok with your dealer
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures thank you so much for the reply I’ll do some digging on my side, I also watched your solar upgrade one, so you took the NDA panel off, can I check did you put 3 x 100w renogy 100DSS panels on as I couldn’t quite tell from the video? It’s just again my dealer is saying they can’t remove the original and then there isn’t room for any additional ones?
This is typical of dealers not wanting to do any work, very poor communication by them. Yes i removed the old NDS panel. Takes a little time cutting through the Sikaflex but not impossible. I then fitted ally bars onto the original Thule bars. I fitted three 100 Watt Renogy solar panels. Any 100 watt panels will fit, you could even fit another panel on the rear. These do go over the toilet vent but this does not cause any issues with us. Best to find a good installer rather than the dealer
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures yes I totally agree, do you think if I found a solar installer though that specialises that it would still mean warranty is okay though ? As I guess they would warranty there own work? It’s just if that changes any of the baseline fittings that could then cause issues with warranty.
I cant really answer this. For me i do not worry to much about the warranty from Adria. I would not be happy buying a van then told i cannot do any modification on it due to a warranty. I have had warranty not pay-out in the past due to very minor reasons. In the end the Fiat side will still be covered which is the only thing i care about, engine, gearbox brakes and under chassis will all be covered under Fiat. All components are separate warranty by company that supplied them. I expect any work on roof will void the water ingress warranty.
Hi could I ask why you decide to go for the isolated dc to dc charger rather than the non isolated one in a metal body earthed van thank lee , as I was thinking of going for the non isolated one , just wondered if I was missing something
It was a mistake on my part. I bought the isolated one then realised I could have got non isolated. I mentioned this in the vlog. You will be best to get the non isolated as it is cheaper. Got nothing to do with being a metal van it all depends on weather you have common negative between the starter and leisure battery which the adria van does
Hi, if you have the same van and EBL as I had then the supply from the started battery comeing into the EBL on pins 3 and 4. on the front of the EBL. There should also be a 30A fuse within the driver side seat belt pillar
@@GaryATC I have the EBL 214 I belive but I expect they both have the same connections, The large cables to the left of the EDL pins 1 to 6 are all the battery connections. I will have a look in the week and see if I can find a schmatic for the EDL 30
I believe my one was an EBL 208, I do not have the van now so cannot check. This is different to the EBL119 but mainly only the connections, you can see the circuit for the EVL 119 in the link below. I would disconnect the vehicle battery connection and if this stops the leisure charging and everything else works OK then you can do a similar setup. content.invisioncic.com/a321943/monthly_2020_03/EBL99.JPG.36411ecb32ffca91dc009f3e00a7db7e.JPG
Wow that’s complicated, but you obviously what your doing. Can I ask a silly question? I’m full time in a 2010 Peugeot Boxer Moto Home, I’ve just bought 120 amp lithium battery, Victron b2b Will this work? As control panel is I think charger as well. I’m never plugged into mains. I just want the lithium battery to run the Heater. So I’m going to disconnect heater from van electrics and run directly from lithium battery, I have wires from starter battery going into Victron B2B 30amp then going to lithium battery, And standard Moto Home AGM battery to run lights and water pump. Leaving standard charging alone for AGM battery. I know it’s odd way round of doing things but I cannot find anyone in the trade to do the job as there too busy. And won’t take any more jobs on. Do you think this would work ok.
I assume your heater is gas with a blower motor. This should normally run on 12v without disconnecting it. Unless you are thinking of heating the van through an inverter using the 240v elements they this will not work. Will need a lot more info to advice on this. If you are on Facebook. Look up campervan electrics group. Join this, i'm on it along with a lot expert electrical engineers, draw up a basic drawing of your setup and post there you should get some good advice,
thinking of getting on of these for my solar station im mbuilding a generator like Will prowse from a milk crate (yep thats right) and thius battery looks like a good contender would you recommend it?
The one I have may be a bit big for what will was making. Hard to say how good they are only had it a few weeks. So far ok and they are good price but I would check they have stock before ordering. Depending on your ability for what will made I would look at a self build Chinese lithium cell batter really cheap. I only went with a manufacturer as the van is worth a lot so did not want to risk a self build
Great install Steve, I've just ordered mine from roamer , quick question on the dc to dc from adria which I'm confused by ,mine appears to be a lithium ready model orien i think ,I've checked and it definetly has a lithium setting would mean I would just need to disconnect the 20amp fuse on the ebl ?
If it has a dealer fitted B2B then this will be fitted between the EBL and the current battery, so there will be no need to change anything. The only issue you may have is the EBL 240v EHU charging may not have lithium setting. You will have three options. 1. disconnect the 240v plug into the EBL and use a Victron or similar lithium charger. 2. Run the EBL on GEL and switch the 240v off when lithium is fully charged it will do absorption for to long but for short periods it should be ok. 3. don't use EHU increase solar which we use all the time
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Thanks for that Steve, I've had a look again and the b2b is the schaudt wa 121525 , I've looked at the instructions online and some of the installations shown are a bit confusing to me so i intend to set it to lithium and drop in the new roamer and hope for the best I think, the float voltage is a constant 14.4 which seems high for a lithium setting but I would imagine the bms would prevent any over charge situation from occurring as a last line of defence so hopefully it'll be ok, I think for now il disconnect the charge circuit by not using the ebl on 240 hook up and see how I get on, maybe put in the 12v charger like you have later on
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Hi Steve , after fitting my battery I seem to have an issue where when I start the van the main control panel loses power and needs to be pressed back on , would you have any ideas what could be wrong ? I've check all the obvious things like fuses ect
Not sure on this one. The control panel I believe is powered by a relay inside the EBL. This is supplied by a 2A fuse from the leisure battery. Possible there is a loose connection here even the spade fuse can be loose and when ignition comes on it causes a power shortage. I have not checked my panel, but I do not believe it should shut down on ignition starting. Have you got the schematic for the EBL. If you are on the FB group, it is on there under files this might help. You will need to do voltage checked on + sensor input from leisure battery and check no negative connections are loose. If all voltages are correct and no loose connections then this may be a EBL issue, try posting on the FB group see if others have had same issue
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Thanks for you're reply , I've checked all connections all good , put the old battery back in and all ok , put the new one back on and same thing happens I'm taking it back to suppliers who have been very helpful and go from there, cheers for you're help
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Big thumbs up Steve! This is a really nice set up and great explanation of how you did it. All motorhomes should be set up like this from factory. Who wants lead acid battery these days, I'm so happy with our modification.
Thanks. Totally agree. Lead acid is about 80 year old tech and the price of a new van you would think victron controllers and lithium should be standard. Still waiting for weekend to try it all out.
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures 200Ah in this format is plenty of power. Since you have the compressor fridge it is great. We have been camping for some weekends now with heater on and still we have great marginal with our 160+ Ah. even if I've been out for like 4 days we have never been under 100Ah remaining capacity when we start up to drive home. This without solars. In to weeks I will go on a moose hunt trip north and this will be the test since I will be out for some more days, but I move the van every day then. Heater will run more or less constantly. But as it looks now I can be camping for a week or so without charging. Summertime it is a exaggeration of capacity for our use and set up. Only thing I can see that change this is if I install a inverter to charger computers and stuff, which I plan to do next.
@@Braapncamp I did a quick current test and with all lights on fridge running from cold and heater just starting up I am pulling around 20 amp. Obviously the fridge will not run constant and heater will switch on/off and I would not have lighting and TV on 24/7 so agree it will be ok. We have 300 watts solar so could go for ever. The B2B is charging on engine at 30A which is amazing as with lead acid I was luck to get near 10A. For laptops etc I use DC to DC converter as they are extremely efficient. Only thing I see an inverter use for is microwaves or electronic toasters etc which we never use. For now I am hoping I will never need EHU as my EBL is now disconnect from charging. I may look at an engine batt charger if it causes a problem but it should hold up for a month at a time
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Yes, the Webasto takes ca 10A momentarily for a minute or so. Set it on eco and it will run with lower rpm or just lower the allowed fan speed, that makes it heat more countinous and more effektive than on max fan with start and stop as result. It runs on 1-2 amps when running continously. I've seen yiur videos on the dc-dc subject for TV or Computer, i agree on this option since i never use 240v otherwise. I need to look into this again. The TV that i allready have but never mounted in this van runs with 12V socket.
Can't believe we're just seeing this Steve! Great video, thank you! Hope all is well
Great vlog bud, it’s good to see and understand that you can’t just drop in a lithium battery, I just wish the lithium battery manufacturers would be more honest with us all. Well done 👍
Totally agree, Steve at Roamer is very good and pointed out that charging on GEL will void a warranty if it causes damage. It's possible that it will not cause damage as GEL voltage it correct for lithium but the absorption charging is about 4 hours more than the battery is designed for. Some manufacturers will say is all ok but if you ask them to email a guarantee on the battery charging on GEL setting most will go quiet. For the cost its not worth the risk.
I wish I could have all that. I can't change a fuse without instructions. Well done 👍
Thanks, everyone has there own skill set. Main thing with these vans being electric fridge etc is to look at upgrading the solar if you want to get away from electric hook up.
Great video, very informative & thought your installation was excellent.👍
Thanks putting the solar through weeka off grid testing this week 😁
Thanks
Thank you very much hope your install goes well
It shows me that dealer work can be sub standard ,that junction box was poor .This set up looks professional and its something i need to look into when i get my new Experdition 67 next month.Their basic 12v charging system and a tiny 75 AH leisure battery won't be good enough.
Totally agree I found a lot cables cut through insulation to core conductors. Loose cables etc. There has been a lot of reports of Facebook of poor dealer practise. 75aH battery seems very low for a van setup. I think for the price of the vans they should be fitting lithium as standard. Lead acid batteries are 80 years old technology why are we still using them when lithium prices are so much cheaper now
My experience of dealers working on electrics like you is very negative. I had mains electric sockets installed in a new van by a very well known alarm supplier and after market kit supplier. The electrics were done with hard wire, twin and earth, not flex and no cable clamps use at the terminal points. As well as cable being brought out though an access panel and the panel screwed back on top of the cable. A dealership in Lowdham also supplied a new van with an air con that didn’t work, checked it and then said go to Spain and if it’s not working get a local engineer to repair and we’ll reimburse! I didn’t instead I contacted the manufacturer who had a repair and distribution point in the U.K. They confirmed the unit was faulty and replaced it under warranty. I asked if they could give me a note to take back to the dealership saying it was faulty and was told they could only say it was faulty on the day they inspected but couldn’t say it was faulty before that. So frankly I wouldn’t trust any dealership and if I wasn’t an electrician, I’d employ one.
I had to read your first line twice I thought you meant I was a dealer😂. Totally agree with your comments. Not all dealers are poor. In the end if its your van you will most probably put more care into getting a job done correct. So far I have found a few things that are poorly wired or damaged cables so I never agree when people say you must use a dealer. Any competent electrician or electrical engineer can do just as good a job if not better
Really enjoyed this video; you're an expert. May I ask if you do approved installs?
😊 thank you. Sorry I do not do installs.
That isolator looks like an AC isolator not a DC one.
Cracking video as usual - very informative and clear. I'm looking to make some upgrades to our campervan power setup (lithium batteries, B2B, solar, etc.) and just wondered if you had a simple schematic of your setup? We have an Autocruise (Swift) so won't be the same but I could (shamelessly!) steal some of your mod ideas!
I can do but not sure how to add it to youtube. If you are on facebook you can join campervanelectrics Steve Kennedy from Roamer runs the group and will help with any installation you are doing. Lots of good advice on this group.
Very useful and informative video. I am now embarking on a similar upgrade to my 2020 Auto-Sleeper. One question: did you any modification to the alternator cabling. I've read a lot about inadequate cable sizes used by manufacturers. Or is it OK as long as a DC-DC charger is fitted.
No upgrade to alternator required if you have DC-DC fitted. My DC-DC limits current to 30A which is ok for this alternator. With out the DC-DC you will be putting a lot of strain on alternator and all the vans wiring. If you have a very low lithium battery it may want to draw hundreds of amps which will only be restricted by cables and alternator so a DC-DC I believe is vital for safety of your van
Fellow electrical engineer, that dealer 230v was shocking, and clearly not to regs, very naughty.
PS: the app you show with the speedo type display, current etc, is that Victron or something else, and I assume it’s reading the shunt?
Totally agree about dealership workmanship. I get comments from people saying any work like this should be carried out by a dealer as they are apparently the professionals. If anything like were I work it will be the young guys just past out carry out this kind of work and probably less experienced than myself. This is why I was showing the dodgy work by the dealer.
As for the app, its Roamers lithium battery BMS app. Mainly only used to see the battery status but I always use my TR-16 gauge which is more accurate and reliable and reads the shunt
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Ah so its Roamer, I was thinking "doesn't look Victron but I like it". Sadly as much as id love the roamers, out of my current budget sadly. Sticking with old school lead for a while longer.
Yes ive asked for help on some forums about Victron gear and had 2-3 replies of "get a professional to do it".. Hmm 33yrs in electrical engineering I think I be ok! haha
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Hi there, just wondering if your Adria Twin is a 2020 model, as we are wanting to do the same on an Adria Twin 600spb 2020. We currently have a 2016 Adria twin with a 3 way fridge that has been completely brilliant for off grid, but have an issue going forward, as we are ready to get a newer van, but they no longer seem to fit 3 way fridges. Thanks
Hi Deborah. I have the 2021 model but this will be the same as the 2020 and pretty much same as most builds with respect to electrics. All new models like you say have the 12v fridge. It not easy to convert to a gas fridge due to ventilation and in my opinion the 12v compressor fridges are more superior in working in all temperatures. You have two options with the new Adria’s. Install extra solar min 300 watts and leave AGM battery fitted. Only internal upgrade needed will be the MPPT. An additional second AGM will not need any alteration to the van. Second option will be to fit lithium and extra solar. New vans will come with B2B fitted so you should be OK with just a straight switch over on the battery and can install a lithium electric hook up charger instead using the EBL.
I am on the Adria FB group if you want to get in touch through there.
Hi, I’m just viewing all your Vlogs now and it’s brilliant as everything I really wanted to be able to do to my Adria Twin SGX640 is what you have done, the challenge I seem to be facing is the fact my dealer says no to being able to do many things and sadly I don’t have the skills like you to do it myself. As you have so much knowledge and experience on this type of thing do you think I could just shop around for approved dealers to be able to do the work or would I have to use the dealer I purchased from so that I don’t effect much warranty? Any help or advice on this would be great.
Thanks
Sacha
Problem with new vans any work carried out that is not covered by an approved engineer will void any warrant. You have to way up if the warranty is more important than the cost of work needed to be carried out. For me. All the electrical work will be void of any warranty but I would take on the work to fix anyway rather than go to the dealer. The rest of the van and components like fridge, heater will be covered under there own warranty. If you want to fit lithium etc you can get any electrical engineer approved to be able to carry out camper van or auto electrical work. This should not affect the warranty. You can try having a word with Steve Kennedy at Roamer as he was trying to get a list of approved installers in UK or join the campervan electrical FB group and post on there if anyone knows of any engineers. In all cases check the person you are using is ok with your dealer
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures thank you so much for the reply I’ll do some digging on my side, I also watched your solar upgrade one, so you took the NDA panel off, can I check did you put 3 x 100w renogy 100DSS panels on as I couldn’t quite tell from the video? It’s just again my dealer is saying they can’t remove the original and then there isn’t room for any additional ones?
This is typical of dealers not wanting to do any work, very poor communication by them. Yes i removed the old NDS panel. Takes a little time cutting through the Sikaflex but not impossible. I then fitted ally bars onto the original Thule bars. I fitted three 100 Watt Renogy solar panels. Any 100 watt panels will fit, you could even fit another panel on the rear. These do go over the toilet vent but this does not cause any issues with us. Best to find a good installer rather than the dealer
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures yes I totally agree, do you think if I found a solar installer though that specialises that it would still mean warranty is okay though ? As I guess they would warranty there own work? It’s just if that changes any of the baseline fittings that could then cause issues with warranty.
I cant really answer this. For me i do not worry to much about the warranty from Adria. I would not be happy buying a van then told i cannot do any modification on it due to a warranty. I have had warranty not pay-out in the past due to very minor reasons. In the end the Fiat side will still be covered which is the only thing i care about, engine, gearbox brakes and under chassis will all be covered under Fiat. All components are separate warranty by company that supplied them. I expect any work on roof will void the water ingress warranty.
Hi could I ask why you decide to go for the isolated dc to dc charger rather than the non isolated one in a metal body earthed van thank lee , as I was thinking of going for the non isolated one , just wondered if I was missing something
It was a mistake on my part. I bought the isolated one then realised I could have got non isolated. I mentioned this in the vlog. You will be best to get the non isolated as it is cheaper. Got nothing to do with being a metal van it all depends on weather you have common negative between the starter and leisure battery which the adria van does
How can i disconnect the ebl not to charge the lithium battery from the alternator?
Hi, if you have the same van and EBL as I had then the supply from the started battery comeing into the EBL on pins 3 and 4. on the front of the EBL. There should also be a 30A fuse within the driver side seat belt pillar
Which EBL do you have, I have EBL30 and want to stop engine charging of Lithium.@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures
@@GaryATC I have the EBL 214 I belive but I expect they both have the same connections, The large cables to the left of the EDL pins 1 to 6 are all the battery connections. I will have a look in the week and see if I can find a schmatic for the EDL 30
What model of ebl do you have? Does the same apply to an EBL119?
I believe my one was an EBL 208, I do not have the van now so cannot check. This is different to the EBL119 but mainly only the connections, you can see the circuit for the EVL 119 in the link below. I would disconnect the vehicle battery connection and if this stops the leisure charging and everything else works OK then you can do a similar setup. content.invisioncic.com/a321943/monthly_2020_03/EBL99.JPG.36411ecb32ffca91dc009f3e00a7db7e.JPG
Wow that’s complicated, but you obviously what your doing. Can I ask a silly question? I’m full time in a 2010 Peugeot Boxer Moto Home, I’ve just bought 120 amp lithium battery, Victron b2b Will this work? As control panel is I think charger as well. I’m never plugged into mains. I just want the lithium battery to run the Heater. So I’m going to disconnect heater from van electrics and run directly from lithium battery,
I have wires from starter battery going into Victron B2B 30amp then going to lithium battery, And standard Moto Home AGM battery to run lights and water pump. Leaving standard charging alone for AGM battery.
I know it’s odd way round of doing things but I cannot find anyone in the trade to do the job as there too busy. And won’t take any more jobs on.
Do you think this would work ok.
I assume your heater is gas with a blower motor. This should normally run on 12v without disconnecting it. Unless you are thinking of heating the van through an inverter using the 240v elements they this will not work. Will need a lot more info to advice on this. If you are on Facebook. Look up campervan electrics group. Join this, i'm on it along with a lot expert electrical engineers, draw up a basic drawing of your setup and post there you should get some good advice,
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures ok thanks for the reply I’ll check out Facebook.
thinking of getting on of these for my solar station im mbuilding a generator like Will prowse from a milk crate (yep thats right) and thius battery looks like a good contender
would you recommend it?
The one I have may be a bit big for what will was making. Hard to say how good they are only had it a few weeks. So far ok and they are good price but I would check they have stock before ordering. Depending on your ability for what will made I would look at a self build Chinese lithium cell batter really cheap. I only went with a manufacturer as the van is worth a lot so did not want to risk a self build
Great install Steve, I've just ordered mine from roamer , quick question on the dc to dc from adria which I'm confused by ,mine appears to be a lithium ready model orien i think ,I've checked and it definetly has a lithium setting would mean I would just need to disconnect the 20amp fuse on the ebl ?
If it has a dealer fitted B2B then this will be fitted between the EBL and the current battery, so there will be no need to change anything. The only issue you may have is the EBL 240v EHU charging may not have lithium setting. You will have three options. 1. disconnect the 240v plug into the EBL and use a Victron or similar lithium charger. 2. Run the EBL on GEL and switch the 240v off when lithium is fully charged it will do absorption for to long but for short periods it should be ok. 3. don't use EHU increase solar which we use all the time
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Thanks for that Steve, I've had a look again and the b2b is the schaudt wa 121525 , I've looked at the instructions online and some of the installations shown are a bit confusing to me so i intend to set it to lithium and drop in the new roamer and hope for the best I think, the float voltage is a constant 14.4 which seems high for a lithium setting but I would imagine the bms would prevent any over charge situation from occurring as a last line of defence so hopefully it'll be ok, I think for now il disconnect the charge circuit by not using the ebl on 240 hook up and see how I get on, maybe put in the 12v charger like you have later on
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Hi Steve , after fitting my battery I seem to have an issue where when I start the van the main control panel loses power and needs to be pressed back on , would you have any ideas what could be wrong ? I've check all the obvious things like fuses ect
Not sure on this one. The control panel I believe is powered by a relay inside the EBL. This is supplied by a 2A fuse from the leisure battery. Possible there is a loose connection here even the spade fuse can be loose and when ignition comes on it causes a power shortage. I have not checked my panel, but I do not believe it should shut down on ignition starting. Have you got the schematic for the EBL. If you are on the FB group, it is on there under files this might help. You will need to do voltage checked on + sensor input from leisure battery and check no negative connections are loose. If all voltages are correct and no loose connections then this may be a EBL issue, try posting on the FB group see if others have had same issue
@@BrackstonesTravelAdventures Thanks for you're reply , I've checked all connections all good , put the old battery back in and all ok , put the new one back on and same thing happens I'm taking it back to suppliers who have been very helpful and go from there, cheers for you're help