I really appreciate this video. We were torn between IKEA and Menards but I think I'm going to go with the Klearvue because our Menards is local and if we have any issues we can run over to the store in 5 min. vs. 1 hr. (plus, IKEA has had a lot of inventory issues lately). Yours are beautiful - it was helpful to see the drawer depths as well for pots and pans.
Jennifer, glad the video was helpful! We also were torn between IKEA and Klearvue when we were looking and had the same thoughts you did as well. We live about 2.5 hours from the nearest IKEA and Menards is about 30 mins away. We are happy with these cabinets and still glad we decided on them :)
Thanks so much for making this video! Just found out about the Klearvue today, an awesome kitchen. Gives me a few ideas, our plan is to do identical shelves like yours.
Thank you! Hopefully this video was helpful! We still like our cabinets a lot, and planning on doing more on the other side of the kitchen. The shelves were my wife's idea and I ended up putting blocking in the walls and the ceiling before we drywalled so mounting them was easier later.
Thank you for the review! I've been looking at the Ikea cabinets but we just recently started talking to a contractor about doing our kitchen, and he mentioned the Menards Klearvue cabinets. So I've started looking at their options and I really like what I see. And your review has helped to tip me more in that direction. They also have some 14 inch deep base and pantry cabinets that will fit along one narrow space we have in our kitchen that full 24" deep cabinets would not work, but I wanted just a little more storage. These are PERFECT and very affordable. Thank you! And I subscribed.
Wanda, I’m glad the video was helpful and thank you for saying so! Our cabinets are still going strong so far and I would still buy them again :) and thank you for the sun as well!
I work at Menards and sell these cabinets. For your lazy Susan problem with the door sagging adjust your top hinge. There is a little screw that will lift your door back up.
Thank u so much! I’ve decided to try and go with these cabinets instead of IKEA considering IKEA right now is so low in stock of everything it was going to take weeks and lots of work in order to get all the parts that I wanted where is this is so similar and more affordable and will show up at my house in several days. So I really appreciate the review there was very few options when it came to reviews online for these
Jackson Oaks Farm, no problem! I’ve been meaning to make a review video for a while now since so many people have asked me how I like them in my assembly video. I’m glad it was helpful and I hope you like them too! Just keep in mind, the instructions that come with them suck and are frustrating ;). My other video might help in that area when you get to that point. Thanks for leaving a comment!
Like others, the comparison between IKEA and Klearvue is important. It seems that IKEA have an inventory management problem we discovered after several trips to IKEA, placing the order and then learning about indeterminate delivery times. We completely cancelled the order and went to Menards, a local store who have been extremely helpful. Items that are on order are usually fulfilled within two weeks.
Your original video helped me install an new kitchen! My input is opt out of the new hinge connectors for countertop(menards). I should’ve kept the biscuit style. Other than that, cabinets are beautiful!
First of all you did not have to add the extra sheet of plywood to have your counters installed. You simply need to adjust the door fronts in order for them to open and close properly with a hard surface counter. I’ve had these cabinets in four houses and never once has my countertop installer ever had to put plywood on top of my cabinets before installing granite countertops. The Lazy Susan can be adjusted on the hinge to compensate for sagging along with any other drawers. Also Menards carries the stroma white in stock. So it’s very easy to go there and get a replacement drawer front or door front if you end up with the scratch. And the bottom drawer with the drawer divider you should be able to move that down a level or two so you can get it to operate how you would like. I would also recommend getting The Clearview drawer divider for silverware it works wonderfully and is much more lightweight than a bamboo one. Over the years I have noticed that Clearview has made improvement‘s in their accessory‘s strength of cabinets and options available. They have also become more clear and concise with their installation instructions. The only complaints I have about Clearview cabinets, I will agree that the cover panels are cheaply made and do dent easily. Although Menards does have a touchup paint that they sell that matches the cabinets. I also do not like the plastic legs. I have not had any problems with them past but with a heavy solid surface countertop on a small piece a plastic it makes me nervous. I promise I’m not an employee of Menards or Klearvue. I’m just a big fan of the price and quality of them plus the near never ending options that you can arrange them. Also the fact that if you get sick of having drawers you can go and buy a door front instead at least in the Stromma white.
Nichole, thanks for the comment! I tried adjusting the drawers down while the guys were here installing the counter tops, and I was able to make them clear, However I was concerned that if I did that I was losing all my future vertical adjustment in the drawer fronts. After they told me they had done quite a few others with the furring strip we just had them do that. If you were to use a composite counter top with any kind of a drop overhang you would def have to shim it up. The lazy susan door isn't sagging really, if you look at the gaps around it, they are all the same. the top drawer next to it needs to be shifted about a 1/16th of an inch to the right, but other than that it is pretty plumb. We also tried the pan holders at a lower position but I think our pans are just too big...they would eventually be tipped over when we opened it a few days later. I don't know if I can talk my wife out of the bamboo divider...that's a beloved IKEA purchase of hers ;) I agree that the cabinets are a great value and I still like ours...if I was going to do it all over again I would still buy the Klearvue's
RE: the chipping you have seen on the end panel due to your pets - Menard's carries Dutch Boy paint formulated for painting cabinets, with mixing codes for tinting to get a perfect color and gloss match to the Klearvue cabinet colors. Your hunch that putting a bigger radius on the end panel and then painting it would solve the pet contact problem is probably correct. Even if it doesn't completely solve the problem, you will have the paint left over to touch it up as necessary.
We are installing cabinets from Klearvue (we got them from Menards) in our laundry room. Fingers crossed we are still happy with them five years from now, too!
The reason the low, heavy cabinet doesn't close is because the three additional screws they have you install at the bottom of the drawer to the face plate, catch on the bottom edge of the box. I solved it by shimming the rail guides up and making sure those three screws clear the bottom of the box!
Thanks for this info! I will give this a try, we don’t use that drawer often so I’ve never really sat down and investigated it. Appreciate you sharing that!
Yeah they are not bad cabinets for what they are. I’ve done a few kitchen installs and what can save your cabinet from getting scratched by the lazy susan is this. Countersink that screw that holds the hardware on. That way the only thing that might drag is the door bumper. You might need a shorter screw but that’s it.
I actually had considered this after I saw it was scratching the drawer front, but I was concerned about losing some of my thickness since the doors are just particle board underneath. I probably would have been ok honestly, but the glue is working just fine. This a good idea for someone who wants a cleaner look for sure though Grant. Thanks for adding some good info here to the comments!
I am wondering how to get the drawer faces plum from top to bottom The bottom edge of the top drawer extends out by 3/16" and it does not look good. In other words from top to overlaps the top edge or sticks out beyond the top edge of the bottom drawer. I thought that maybe the metal drawer supports with their plastic screws might allow me to "push" out the top of the bottom drawer to make the surface appear uniform. Suggestions would be appreciated.
I noticed in the store the drawer margins and alignment are skewed on most displays. The paint also seems to chip on displays. This video reinforced what i already suspected
Damage to kitchen cabinetry is typical challenge and i suspect there are solutions to add protective corner strips to the high traffic areas. In fact, the steel edging used in drywall construction is dangerous. Our daughter caught her head on a corner when rushing around the house. Strong case to use slow radius corners!
nailbender, thank you, I need to take another look I suppose. I did adjust them originally, but they seem to still sag. I almost think they should be more rigid.
Thanks Scott! They were just 1/4” thick strips of plywood tacked and glued onto the tops of the cabinets. That gave us a decent amount of clearance without being able to see it. Hope that helps!
It may be too late, but you may want to try countersinking the screw head holding the handle on your lazy Susan cabinet door. That way it won't scratch the front of your neighboring cabinet door. I noticed that issue looking at the display they had at menards. I am installing my cabinets now and going to make sure I countersink any screws I use for hardware on that cabinet door. I may also find some kind of adhesive white felt to put on the back side of that cabinet door as well. It is a shame they changed the way those lazy Susan cabinet doors work now. I like the old kind, but apparently kids were getting their fingers caught.
In my opinion I wouldn’t see any reason that they couldn’t as long as they were prepped right. They are pretty smooth, so I’d assume they would need scuffed and primed before hand.
Hello! I honestly don’t know. Ours came with a tube of caulking but none of the install steps required it. Maybe to caulk around the edges of the cabinets where it meets the wall?
Hi!! Thanks for the video! Im trying to do it myself, just wondering how much you paid for all your cabinets?? My cabinets are very old and i want to do half of my kitchen thats a great idea! Thanks 😊
Brittany, I don’t have the exact number, but if I recall the cabinets you see in the video were around $1,800 and I think we had $1,200 in the quartz counter tops.
just for a reference a standard l-shaped kitchen display at Menards now runs just over $3,000 for the type of cabinets he has in his videos. they have gone up in price like everything else. before the pandemic it was right around $2,700.
I actually considered that, but since the doors aren’t solid wood I was worried I would lose too much of the “meat” and it would pull through eventually. It would probably be ok honestly and it is a good idea
@@PottersWork, I’m a retired cabinet builder/installer of custom kitchens. Whenever we had a corner lazy-susan with bi-fold doors, it was a requirement to prevent damage to adjacent finished surfaces. All you need do, even for an MDF or veneered flake board door, after you’ve drilled the 3/16” hole for the pull, just take a 3/8” spade bit and carefully drill an 1/8 to no more than a 1/4”. That’s all you need for the screw to be below the finished surface. The door’s performance will not be compromised. If your doors happen to be less than 3/4 of an inch thick, which would be uncommon, you can use adhesive bumpers to keep the back of the door off of the face frame.
Madeline, thank you! We bought them on Amazon…here’s the link to the ones we bought (we bought the 11” long ones): Amazon Basics Euro Bar Cabinet Handle (3/8-inch Diameter), 11.19-inch Length (8.82-inch Hole Center), Flat Black, 10-Pack a.co/d/cZqpnWW
We actually did think about that, but I thought the hot glue would stay on the screws better. Felt would probably work just fine though. Glad it was helpful, and thanks for letting me know! :)
@@PottersWork I think I'm going to do hot glue and felt! Do you have any advice for installing/leveling the base cabinets. Were about to start that project after coffee.
@@megangunther86, if I recall correctly, I ran a level chalk line along the wall that I used as a guide. I snapped the line 1” above the height of the base cabinets after the legs were installed and the feet were screwed all the way in. I then extended the back screw legs out enough that I was touching my line on the wall. This gave me some play in case the subfloor was higher or lower in some places. Once I had the back of the cabinet level with that line I set my level on top of the cabinet and adjusted the front legs until it was level with the back. You may not need to go a full inch higher than your cabinets if your subfloor is pretty level. Our house was built in the 50’s so I knew there would be a little discrepancy here and there so I did an inch to be safe. I didn’t want to hit a spot where my legs were screwed all the way in and I couldn’t adjust it down any further. After that, I just ran the mounting screws into the wall so set them permanently. I set the screws for each one before moving to the next so I didn’t accidentally move it. I also used hand clamps the hold the next cabinet to the one I had just set as I moved along. This helped hold it up while I adjusted the legs. I hope that’s helpful and not confusing, I’m not always the best at explaining in writing LOL.
@@PottersWork this is awesome! My house was diy in the 40s so the subfloor looks like a fun house mirror. We got one done and it's perfect. Your are amazing Thank you so much!!!
@@megangunther86, I’m glad to hear the 1st one went in smooth! That’s the hardest part is getting the 1st one in. Should hopefully be smooth sailing on the rest of them!
Laurie, I didn’t ever install the uppers. My in laws did a few themselves and I think they were a lot easier from what they told me. However, I think the instructions still left a lot to be desired
@@PottersWork thanks so much! God willing, we will be starting our installation in the next month! We really enjoyed your two videos and I’m hoping and praying that things go as well as they went for you guys. Thanks for making a great video
@@lauriehucek6345, glad the videos were helpful! I know it can seem a little overwhelming, but just take your time chip away at it. Once you get one done, the rest go much faster. The corner lazy susan was probably the hardest part of our kitchen, I think it has 5 or 6 legs under it to level. The cabinets do look great, so just remember it’s worth it in the end ;)
I did not, that would definitely help, but the bigger problem is that there is nothing on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you close the drawer...I wish they would’ve made them full height dividers and that would’ve helped a lot. Thanks for watching! Are you planning on getting some?
@@PottersWork yep just waiting for another 11% off sale. I bet you could fix those corners with some Outside Corner PVC Vinyl Trim (Menards® SKU: 1599701)
Thanks for the good info in the video. We've also been looking at IKEA mostly because we like the door/drawer front options. From what I can see online in the assembly docs it looks like IKEA and Klearvue are essentially the same design and mechanicals. The finishes are different but that appears to be all. From what you've seen do you think something IKEA drawer fronts would work on these?
Marc, thanks for watching! Honestly, you could probably swap the hardware over to the ikea fronts if they are the same outside dimensions. They are basically just a slab with pre drilled holes. I have a other video showing assembly as well if you want a closer look
James, we think they are holding up pretty well, however we try to take care of them too. We aren’t really tough with them or have a lot of traffic either.
@@PottersWorkThe metal L piece used for dropped ceilings makes a great corner protectant without looking like the drywall plastic that eventually cracks or fades and turns into a wonky yellow tint. Light sand the cut(s) you make to remove any sharp natural edges and then use 100% Silicone caulk (think like liquid nails) to adhere it. White is standard and will be a near color match. Or, you can always spray paint to a different shade of white with a paint designed for metals, like rustoleum with primer. If you're getting fancy, you can spray the L piece with pre-catalyzed paint from Sherwin Williams.
@@someanimation6807. I am not sure about labor, I did the work myself. The cabinets and countertops I think were around $2,700 all together at the time. I think the cabinets might have been $1,600.
Well for reference my parents lazy Susan door doesn’t contact the front of the adjacent cabinet, so that’s what my point of reference is. This is my 1st lazy Susan. Their door doesn’t have as much travel though either, so I guess that’s the trade off.
I really appreciate this video. We were torn between IKEA and Menards but I think I'm going to go with the Klearvue because our Menards is local and if we have any issues we can run over to the store in 5 min. vs. 1 hr. (plus, IKEA has had a lot of inventory issues lately). Yours are beautiful - it was helpful to see the drawer depths as well for pots and pans.
Jennifer, glad the video was helpful! We also were torn between IKEA and Klearvue when we were looking and had the same thoughts you did as well. We live about 2.5 hours from the nearest IKEA and Menards is about 30 mins away. We are happy with these cabinets and still glad we decided on them :)
We just purchased a bunch of these thanks for the tips will be installing hopefully in the next week!
Good luck! After the 1st one, it gets a lot easier. Thanks for watching!
This was great and super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!
No problem! Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much for making this video! Just found out about the Klearvue today, an awesome kitchen. Gives me a few ideas, our plan is to do identical shelves like yours.
Thank you! Hopefully this video was helpful! We still like our cabinets a lot, and planning on doing more on the other side of the kitchen. The shelves were my wife's idea and I ended up putting blocking in the walls and the ceiling before we drywalled so mounting them was easier later.
Thank you for the review! I've been looking at the Ikea cabinets but we just recently started talking to a contractor about doing our kitchen, and he mentioned the Menards Klearvue cabinets. So I've started looking at their options and I really like what I see. And your review has helped to tip me more in that direction. They also have some 14 inch deep base and pantry cabinets that will fit along one narrow space we have in our kitchen that full 24" deep cabinets would not work, but I wanted just a little more storage. These are PERFECT and very affordable. Thank you! And I subscribed.
Wanda, I’m glad the video was helpful and thank you for saying so! Our cabinets are still going strong so far and I would still buy them again :) and thank you for the sun as well!
Thanks so much for the review. Makes me more comfortable in ordering them today!
Also Amazon carries an epoxy touchup paint that might work well for your corners?
@@BodybyGym no problem! That’s been a few years back that I did this review, and still happy with them today.
@@BodybyGym I will take a look at that! What is the epoxy brand name?
I work at Menards and sell these cabinets. For your lazy Susan problem with the door sagging adjust your top hinge. There is a little screw that will lift your door back up.
Kaylee, I will take a look at that when I get home, thanks for your comment!
Thank u so much! I’ve decided to try and go with these cabinets instead of IKEA considering IKEA right now is so low in stock of everything it was going to take weeks and lots of work in order to get all the parts that I wanted where is this is so similar and more affordable and will show up at my house in several days. So I really appreciate the review there was very few options when it came to reviews online for these
Jackson Oaks Farm, no problem! I’ve been meaning to make a review video for a while now since so many people have asked me how I like them in my assembly video. I’m glad it was helpful and I hope you like them too! Just keep in mind, the instructions that come with them suck and are frustrating ;). My other video might help in that area when you get to that point. Thanks for leaving a comment!
Like others, the comparison between IKEA and Klearvue is important. It seems that IKEA have an inventory management problem we discovered after several trips to IKEA, placing the order and then learning about indeterminate delivery times. We completely cancelled the order and went to Menards, a local store who have been extremely helpful. Items that are on order are usually fulfilled within two weeks.
We had pretty good luck with our local Menards as well. We thought about IKEA, but the closest store is 2.5 hours from us.
Thanks for doing this. The only thing I would request for a better frame of reference is the sizes of the cabinets.
Stasia, thanks :) Just the width of the base cabinets themselves, or each drawer as well?
Your original video helped me install an new kitchen! My input is opt out of the new hinge connectors for countertop(menards). I should’ve kept the biscuit style. Other than that, cabinets are beautiful!
Edgar, thanks for the comment! Forgive my ignorance, but what are the new connectors for the countertops? Did they change something recently?
@@PottersWork I got them when I installed last year, Flip Bolt Fastener
First of all you did not have to add the extra sheet of plywood to have your counters installed. You simply need to adjust the door fronts in order for them to open and close properly with a hard surface counter. I’ve had these cabinets in four houses and never once has my countertop installer ever had to put plywood on top of my cabinets before installing granite countertops.
The Lazy Susan can be adjusted on the hinge to compensate for sagging along with any other drawers. Also Menards carries the stroma white in stock. So it’s very easy to go there and get a replacement drawer front or door front if you end up with the scratch.
And the bottom drawer with the drawer divider you should be able to move that down a level or two so you can get it to operate how you would like. I would also recommend getting The Clearview drawer divider for silverware it works wonderfully and is much more lightweight than a bamboo one.
Over the years I have noticed that Clearview has made improvement‘s in their accessory‘s strength of cabinets and options available. They have also become more clear and concise with their installation instructions.
The only complaints I have about Clearview cabinets, I will agree that the cover panels are cheaply made and do dent easily. Although Menards does have a touchup paint that they sell that matches the cabinets. I also do not like the plastic legs. I have not had any problems with them past but with a heavy solid surface countertop on a small piece a plastic it makes me nervous.
I promise I’m not an employee of Menards or Klearvue. I’m just a big fan of the price and quality of them plus the near never ending options that you can arrange them. Also the fact that if you get sick of having drawers you can go and buy a door front instead at least in the Stromma white.
Nichole, thanks for the comment! I tried adjusting the drawers down while the guys were here installing the counter tops, and I was able to make them clear, However I was concerned that if I did that I was losing all my future vertical adjustment in the drawer fronts. After they told me they had done quite a few others with the furring strip we just had them do that. If you were to use a composite counter top with any kind of a drop overhang you would def have to shim it up.
The lazy susan door isn't sagging really, if you look at the gaps around it, they are all the same. the top drawer next to it needs to be shifted about a 1/16th of an inch to the right, but other than that it is pretty plumb.
We also tried the pan holders at a lower position but I think our pans are just too big...they would eventually be tipped over when we opened it a few days later.
I don't know if I can talk my wife out of the bamboo divider...that's a beloved IKEA purchase of hers ;)
I agree that the cabinets are a great value and I still like ours...if I was going to do it all over again I would still buy the Klearvue's
RE: the chipping you have seen on the end panel due to your pets - Menard's carries Dutch Boy paint formulated for painting cabinets, with mixing codes for tinting to get a perfect color and gloss match to the Klearvue cabinet colors. Your hunch that putting a bigger radius on the end panel and then painting it would solve the pet contact problem is probably correct. Even if it doesn't completely solve the problem, you will have the paint left over to touch it up as necessary.
Thanks for that tip! I will definitely look into the touch up paint
We are installing cabinets from Klearvue (we got them from Menards) in our laundry room. Fingers crossed we are still happy with them five years from now, too!
Good luck with your install! So far ours are still holding up well…been pretty happy with them
The reason the low, heavy cabinet doesn't close is because the three additional screws they have you install at the bottom of the drawer to the face plate, catch on the bottom edge of the box. I solved it by shimming the rail guides up and making sure those three screws clear the bottom of the box!
Thanks for this info! I will give this a try, we don’t use that drawer often so I’ve never really sat down and investigated it. Appreciate you sharing that!
@@PottersWork if you hold the handle up as you pull it out it may clear without issue. Proving the point
@@simotronic, it’s on my to-do list now…so hopefully I will get to it in the next couple of weeks. I’ll report back
Thanks for watching, if this was helpful for you, it would mean a lot if you hit the LIKE button!
Yeah they are not bad cabinets for what they are. I’ve done a few kitchen installs and what can save your cabinet from getting scratched by the lazy susan is this. Countersink that screw that holds the hardware on. That way the only thing that might drag is the door bumper. You might need a shorter screw but that’s it.
I actually had considered this after I saw it was scratching the drawer front, but I was concerned about losing some of my thickness since the doors are just particle board underneath. I probably would have been ok honestly, but the glue is working just fine. This a good idea for someone who wants a cleaner look for sure though Grant. Thanks for adding some good info here to the comments!
I am wondering how to get the drawer faces plum from top to bottom The bottom edge of the top drawer extends out by 3/16" and it does not look good. In other words from top to overlaps the top edge or sticks out beyond the top edge of the bottom drawer. I thought that maybe the metal drawer supports with their plastic screws might allow me to "push" out the top of the bottom drawer to make the surface appear uniform. Suggestions would be appreciated.
I noticed in the store the drawer margins and alignment are skewed on most displays. The paint also seems to chip on displays. This video reinforced what i already suspected
Damage to kitchen cabinetry is typical challenge and i suspect there are solutions to add protective corner strips to the high traffic areas.
In fact, the steel edging used in drywall construction is dangerous. Our daughter caught her head on a corner when rushing around the house. Strong case to use slow radius corners!
I like how you still have the Lets Cuddle sign from the initial video :)
Haha, I think we JUST finally changed that sign a few months ago…that’s my wife’s domain.
Your lazy susan door hinges should be adjustable. The corner hinges have multiple adjustment capabilities, up and down, also in and out
nailbender, thank you, I need to take another look I suppose. I did adjust them originally, but they seem to still sag. I almost think they should be more rigid.
Hey man. On the soft close issue try raising the door up with the side screws. The issue is the white center support underneath is hitting
I will try that this evening! Thanks for the heads up!
@@PottersWork let me know if it works
Great video - thank you for putting this together. Can I ask what color of cabinet you have? I think I have the same kitchen ceramic tile as you.
Thank you and I’m glad it was helpful! Stroma White I believe is our color
I LOVE you review. I am doing my kitchen now. Can you tell me the size of boards u used on top of the cabinets before the counter tops?
Thanks Scott! They were just 1/4” thick strips of plywood tacked and glued onto the tops of the cabinets. That gave us a decent amount of clearance without being able to see it. Hope that helps!
It may be too late, but you may want to try countersinking the screw head holding the handle on your lazy Susan cabinet door. That way it won't scratch the front of your neighboring cabinet door. I noticed that issue looking at the display they had at menards. I am installing my cabinets now and going to make sure I countersink any screws I use for hardware on that cabinet door. I may also find some kind of adhesive white felt to put on the back side of that cabinet door as well. It is a shame they changed the way those lazy Susan cabinet doors work now. I like the old kind, but apparently kids were getting their fingers caught.
Ken,
I put some hot glue on it and that alleviated the issue. Countersink would look much better though for sure!
Thank you! This was very helpful!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Do you know if the doors can be repainted?
In my opinion I wouldn’t see any reason that they couldn’t as long as they were prepped right. They are pretty smooth, so I’d assume they would need scuffed and primed before hand.
My kit for the closet system is coming with a sealant. Do you know what that is supposed to be used for?
Hello! I honestly don’t know. Ours came with a tube of caulking but none of the install steps required it. Maybe to caulk around the edges of the cabinets where it meets the wall?
We are looking at putting these in our kitchen. Since it’s been a year since you posted this, is everything still working as expected?
Chris,
Yes, no changes that I can think of. Still holding up well!
Hi!! Thanks for the video! Im trying to do it myself, just wondering how much you paid for all your cabinets?? My cabinets are very old and i want to do half of my kitchen thats a great idea! Thanks 😊
Brittany, I don’t have the exact number, but if I recall the cabinets you see in the video were around $1,800 and I think we had $1,200 in the quartz counter tops.
just for a reference a standard l-shaped kitchen display at Menards now runs just over $3,000 for the type of cabinets he has in his videos. they have gone up in price like everything else. before the pandemic it was right around $2,700.
Countersink the handle screw in the lazy Susan corner cabinet to keep the screw from marring the door when closing.
I actually considered that, but since the doors aren’t solid wood I was worried I would lose too much of the “meat” and it would pull through eventually. It would probably be ok honestly and it is a good idea
@@PottersWork, I’m a retired cabinet builder/installer of custom kitchens. Whenever we had a corner lazy-susan with bi-fold doors, it was a requirement to prevent damage to adjacent finished surfaces. All you need do, even for an MDF or veneered flake board door, after you’ve drilled the 3/16” hole for the pull, just take a 3/8” spade bit and carefully drill an 1/8 to no more than a 1/4”. That’s all you need for the screw to be below the finished surface. The door’s performance will not be compromised. If your doors happen to be less than 3/4 of an inch thick, which would be uncommon, you can use adhesive bumpers to keep the back of the door off of the face frame.
@@y.u.doodat9133, I may just do it then! Nice to have a professional’s advice here in the comments! Thank you sir
Did you ever mention where the cabinet pulls were from? I really like them!
Madeline, thank you! We bought them on Amazon…here’s the link to the ones we bought (we bought the 11” long ones):
Amazon Basics Euro Bar Cabinet Handle (3/8-inch Diameter), 11.19-inch Length (8.82-inch Hole Center), Flat Black, 10-Pack a.co/d/cZqpnWW
@@PottersWork Thank you!
This was super helpful, thanks for all of this. Did you consider felt instead of hot glue?
We actually did think about that, but I thought the hot glue would stay on the screws better. Felt would probably work just fine though. Glad it was helpful, and thanks for letting me know! :)
@@PottersWork I think I'm going to do hot glue and felt! Do you have any advice for installing/leveling the base cabinets. Were about to start that project after coffee.
@@megangunther86, if I recall correctly, I ran a level chalk line along the wall that I used as a guide. I snapped the line 1” above the height of the base cabinets after the legs were installed and the feet were screwed all the way in. I then extended the back screw legs out enough that I was touching my line on the wall. This gave me some play in case the subfloor was higher or lower in some places. Once I had the back of the cabinet level with that line I set my level on top of the cabinet and adjusted the front legs until it was level with the back. You may not need to go a full inch higher than your cabinets if your subfloor is pretty level. Our house was built in the 50’s so I knew there would be a little discrepancy here and there so I did an inch to be safe. I didn’t want to hit a spot where my legs were screwed all the way in and I couldn’t adjust it down any further. After that, I just ran the mounting screws into the wall so set them permanently. I set the screws for each one before moving to the next so I didn’t accidentally move it. I also used hand clamps the hold the next cabinet to the one I had just set as I moved along. This helped hold it up while I adjusted the legs. I hope that’s helpful and not confusing, I’m not always the best at explaining in writing LOL.
@@PottersWork this is awesome! My house was diy in the 40s so the subfloor looks like a fun house mirror. We got one done and it's perfect. Your are amazing
Thank you so much!!!
@@megangunther86, I’m glad to hear the 1st one went in smooth! That’s the hardest part is getting the 1st one in. Should hopefully be smooth sailing on the rest of them!
To fix those chips, they do have white caulk and paint that match you drawers. I have the same cabinets , adjusting doors are a pain.
That’s good to know teaglet! I will have to pick some up. And yes, the doors could be more user friendly for sure.
Did you install the over cabinets you mentioned? We are getting ready to install our cabinets and I’m excited but fearful 😧
Laurie, I didn’t ever install the uppers. My in laws did a few themselves and I think they were a lot easier from what they told me. However, I think the instructions still left a lot to be desired
@@PottersWork thanks so much! God willing, we will be starting our installation in the next month! We really enjoyed your two videos and I’m hoping and praying that things go as well as they went for you guys. Thanks for making a great video
@@lauriehucek6345, glad the videos were helpful! I know it can seem a little overwhelming, but just take your time chip away at it. Once you get one done, the rest go much faster. The corner lazy susan was probably the hardest part of our kitchen, I think it has 5 or 6 legs under it to level. The cabinets do look great, so just remember it’s worth it in the end ;)
@@PottersWork we are doing a gallery kitchen so NO corners!!!
@@lauriehucek6345, that should make it much easier!
Great review; thanks! Did you try wrapping some masking tape around the bar for your drawer dividers? 6:55
I did not, that would definitely help, but the bigger problem is that there is nothing on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you close the drawer...I wish they would’ve made them full height dividers and that would’ve helped a lot. Thanks for watching! Are you planning on getting some?
@@PottersWork yep just waiting for another 11% off sale. I bet you could fix those corners with some Outside Corner PVC Vinyl Trim (Menards® SKU: 1599701)
@@ThomasPetter, That would actually probably work pretty good to stop the chipping from the dogs. I may look into that...and it's cheap too
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the good info in the video. We've also been looking at IKEA mostly because we like the door/drawer front options. From what I can see online in the assembly docs it looks like IKEA and Klearvue are essentially the same design and mechanicals. The finishes are different but that appears to be all. From what you've seen do you think something IKEA drawer fronts would work on these?
Marc, thanks for watching! Honestly, you could probably swap the hardware over to the ikea fronts if they are the same outside dimensions. They are basically just a slab with pre drilled holes. I have a other video showing assembly as well if you want a closer look
Thanks
the hidden drawers are nice
they seem really good for 3 years later
James, we think they are holding up pretty well, however we try to take care of them too. We aren’t really tough with them or have a lot of traffic either.
You could add a clear plastic corner, like they put on walls on the cabinet your dogs hit.
That’s a great idea Lori, I may end up doing that. Luckily it hasn’t gotten too much worse since I made the video
@@PottersWorkThe metal L piece used for dropped ceilings makes a great corner protectant without looking like the drywall plastic that eventually cracks or fades and turns into a wonky yellow tint. Light sand the cut(s) you make to remove any sharp natural edges and then use 100% Silicone caulk (think like liquid nails) to adhere it. White is standard and will be a near color match. Or, you can always spray paint to a different shade of white with a paint designed for metals, like rustoleum with primer. If you're getting fancy, you can spray the L piece with pre-catalyzed paint from Sherwin Williams.
Very helpful
Thank you Shannon!
How much I can spent to install cabinets?
Hello, are you wanting to know how much I spent on our cabinets?
@@PottersWork yes, and how much labor to install in average?
@@someanimation6807. I am not sure about labor, I did the work myself. The cabinets and countertops I think were around $2,700 all together at the time. I think the cabinets might have been $1,600.
i would keep a gun in the secret drawer
Has anyone painted their klearvue cabinets?
We really like then but don't come in a color we want..
I haven’t seen anyone paint them, but I don’t know why you couldn’t if they were prepped right
You can but it voids your lifetime warranty
They have a lifetime warrenty just unscrew a piece bring in to any menards
I didn’t know that Chris! I appreciate that info and hopefully others reading the comments will as well. Thanks for your comment
That's how a lazy Susan for works bro lol
Well for reference my parents lazy Susan door doesn’t contact the front of the adjacent cabinet, so that’s what my point of reference is. This is my 1st lazy Susan. Their door doesn’t have as much travel though either, so I guess that’s the trade off.