Best verbal description of water management I have heard. And since I know it already, I was picturing it as you spoke and you nailed it all. Now, since this is video channel, a few illustrations would help if I wasn't already familiar. I'm a big fan of ICF for it's DIY friendliness and its concrete core is less likely to crack given it lives in a much more temperature stable environment and it also cured in that environment. Rebar can exacerbate cracks once water and air reaches it. I see many videos where they use metal rebar chairs in footings and I wonder if they are going to rust and crack the concrete. But yes, properly embedded rebar helps prevent crack. Great video!
@@MichaelJ674 I asked the Gemini AI Can rusting rebar cause concrete to crack? Yes, rusting rebar can cause concrete to crack. Here's why: * Expansion: As rebar rusts, it expands. This expansion exerts outward pressure on the surrounding concrete, leading to cracks and spalling (concrete chipping away). * Loss of Bond: Rusting weakens the bond between the rebar and the concrete, reducing the structural integrity of the concrete. Factors that contribute to rebar rusting: * Water penetration: Water is essential for the rusting process. Cracks in the concrete, exposure to harsh weather, and poor construction practices can allow water to reach the rebar. * Chloride ions: Chlorides from de-icing salts, seawater, or contaminated soil can accelerate corrosion. Consequences of rusting rebar: * Reduced structural strength: Cracked concrete is weaker and less able to withstand loads. * Spalling: Concrete can chip away, exposing the rusted rebar and further compromising the structure. * Corrosion of reinforcing steel: This can lead to significant structural damage and potential collapse. Prevention and mitigation: * Proper concrete mix design: Using the right mix proportions and additives can improve the durability and resistance to water penetration. * Adequate concrete cover: Sufficient concrete cover around the rebar acts as a protective barrier. * Use of corrosion inhibitors: These chemicals can help slow down the rusting process. * Regular inspections and maintenance: Identifying and addressing potential issues early on can prevent major problems. If you suspect that rusting rebar is causing cracks in your concrete, it's crucial to consult with a qualified structural engineer to assess the situation and recommend appropriate solutions.
So true and very well said. There is one and only one time that you have the opportunity to get the foundation right. Whatever it costs, get it right the first time when you build the project. Well done Jake and thanks for sharing... 😁👍
Actually I've found moisture and air are critical for the basement. Two reasons first. Radon one crack was letting it all in. 2nd moisture. I should have sprayed under my slab not gps. it only takes one or two slightly imperfect seals to compromise it and let them in. spray the foam on the gravel taper up the walls. frame 1" off the concrete then spray.
Could you please do a followup video showing examples of all the things you discussed how to properly do it and also products used thank you. great videos keep up the great work we appreciate it!
You mention the 15mil vapour barrier “is below the thermal control layer” but when you show it (19:25), it looks like it’s on top of the insulation… can you confirm it’s placed between the insulation and concrete (above the thermal control layer), not the insulation and sub grade?
It is actually above the thermal control layer. Not certain why I said it backwards. Always on top on our jobs because it keeps the concrete from getting below the foam and making the foam float in the concrete, ask me how I figured that out.
I agree with you. Adding an illustration or photo would convey information much more efficiently. I'm not knocking the presentation. Some really good info was passed along, but some simple illustrations would have taken it to the next level.
I agree water prevention on the outside of the wall to prevent bulk and vapor intrusion, but... the water the insurance in referring to is water from something happening in the home such as supply line ruptured or water heater in the attic popping a line and flooding the entire home. What i see is insurance companies not even covering water intrusion with the exception of roofs. Love the show and thank you for sharing your and yall's building expertise.
I am curious about how this all relates to ICF, in particular using a continuous monolithic pour of the footing with the ICF. What measures should be take in such systems? Sealing the outer foam and a dimple mat? Do we connect the inner and outer drain tile below the footing, or through the footing (with a PVC pipe placed before the pour)? Are there additives for the concrete that we can apply during mixing to improve things, like a sealant throughout?
Great content. One question with the 15mm vapor/gas barrier do you still need to have a fan and pipe to exhaust radon up and out? I would love if you can answer this question. Thanks Great stuff once again
I'm planning on using Form-A-Drain (or something similar) on our upcoming build since the inner "ring" of the drain can be used for radon mitigation as well as water drainage. I know several of the ICF manufacturers have product that is single sided with the foam, it's normally used for swimming pools but I don't see any reason your couldn't put the plywood to the OUTSIDE rather than the inside of the build. That way you would have your continuous foam insulation with integrated "studs" on the inside and a (relatively) smooth and continuous concrete wall on the outside with no hidden path for the termites to burrow through.
Since the rigid insulation is not taped wouldn't warm moist air be able to reach the concrete? Then water will condense on the concrete. Will you have another air barrier in the interior? Smart vapour barrier or use drywall as the air barrier?
Hi…wouldn’t a 23:4323:4323:43 precast pier or helical pier system, raising the structure above grade, with below grade drain to air, and natural ground sloped away from the building (without foundation at all resolve all basement/crawspace issues with out expensive fixes?)
This video got me curious and made me look at what's new on the market... You'll get a kick out of this. Apparently Sika has a new concrete system/package that is guaranteed waterproof. It's pretty neat - seems to be a combination of admixtures, clever joint tech, plugs, and special penetration tech. Check it out.
If you don't get the water away from the house, you're gonna have problems someday Proper grade is essential. Also the buyer should be made aware of the drain tile, where it a exits out of the ground. I also believe you should use preforated pipe with a sock and gravel to the exit point in the yard. The buyer should be made aware the it is his responsibility to keep the exit points open and free of debris. I would guess that many homeowners are unaware that they even have these drainage systems around the foundation and the maintance issues involved. By the way, I live in North Georgia and every home I built had a walk in basement. I never had drainage issues.
There's not a lot of basements in SoCal here, and I've "heard" it's because the clay soil tends to put a lot of pressure on basement walls when it gets soaked then shrinks when it dries. Personally if I had a new construction home I'd like a basement. Along with all concrete walls for the wild fires.
What about the fiberglass mat material against the foundation instead of a dimple mat? Supposedly those systems relieve the water pressure just as well but I haven't been able to find any long term info on that method.
I am building a walk out basement house on fractured basalt rock. Want a NON moldy basement. My area has mild winters, but may freeze several times in the winter. Most times it snows, it melts by the end of the day.
You don't use gravel layer in foundations in the north as a water management you use it to prevent frost heaving, water management is just a handy side effect that happens with a gravel bed.
One could say that managing the water reduces frost heaving, too. Also, I was under the impression that digging it deep enough was the primary way of dealing with heaving
@@CrapE_DM you can but the right soil type also lowers it and that soil type of choice is often gravel. Frost level in the north (that is arctic circle) can go down to 180cm or even more but with the right soil type it can drop to only 40cm and there is a huge difference in needing to dig a 2meters extra or just 40cm.
I never understood the term "cold climate" because at least in the USA all the coldest places I can think of also get really hot part of the year. So why are building science people talking about cold climates rather than mixed climates?
Formosa termites will still burrow into foam insulations, this is brought up all the time in the context of ICF construction that there is just no way do below grade insulation without creating an inaccessible and hidden path for termites to get into the structure.
@@daverohner271 then they follow the masonry up hidden until they get into the house above grade. No visible mud trails, no external signs that they are in there. And there's no way for exterminators to treat exterior foam insulation that guarantees to kill an infestation that's in the foam.
if it was installed with out a seam.......in time the primer will fail.... water will get in through the seam...that is if it is installed properly...chances are the installers just want to get the job done quickly...poorly applied primer...no proper tack up time ..etc. when back filling the foundation , rocks get pushed up against the foundation wall,this will damage the blueskin.... dont forget the price difference..blue skin is expensive ,to install.....the dimple matt even if poorly installed will weep away moisture to the drain tile
Great info but I find it really boring for you to stand there talking the entire time without showing video and images that demonstrate what you’re talking about. I’m not trying to be a troll; I just don’t understand using the medium of TH-cam and not including any actual video of what you’re talking about (except for a quick look at some dimple mat). You may as well just do a podcast.
You are literally standing in your job sight and you didn't show us your work ? Sorry.... but after a few minutes of this, I simply could not listen to this any longer.
Excellent video. You really educated me on what's involved and how you choose to address it.
Best verbal description of water management I have heard. And since I know it already, I was picturing it as you spoke and you nailed it all. Now, since this is video channel, a few illustrations would help if I wasn't already familiar. I'm a big fan of ICF for it's DIY friendliness and its concrete core is less likely to crack given it lives in a much more temperature stable environment and it also cured in that environment. Rebar can exacerbate cracks once water and air reaches it. I see many videos where they use metal rebar chairs in footings and I wonder if they are going to rust and crack the concrete. But yes, properly embedded rebar helps prevent crack. Great video!
Metal rebar chairs will not rust as long as the pH of the concrete is above 10.
Fiberglass rebar is the way to go in most cases.
@@buddyrevell511 Macrofibers is the way to go in most cases.
Data from both of you, please. A statement without data is just an opinion.
@@MichaelJ674 I asked the Gemini AI
Can rusting rebar cause concrete to crack?
Yes, rusting rebar can cause concrete to crack. Here's why:
* Expansion: As rebar rusts, it expands. This expansion exerts outward pressure on the surrounding concrete, leading to cracks and spalling (concrete chipping away).
* Loss of Bond: Rusting weakens the bond between the rebar and the concrete, reducing the structural integrity of the concrete.
Factors that contribute to rebar rusting:
* Water penetration: Water is essential for the rusting process. Cracks in the concrete, exposure to harsh weather, and poor construction practices can allow water to reach the rebar.
* Chloride ions: Chlorides from de-icing salts, seawater, or contaminated soil can accelerate corrosion.
Consequences of rusting rebar:
* Reduced structural strength: Cracked concrete is weaker and less able to withstand loads.
* Spalling: Concrete can chip away, exposing the rusted rebar and further compromising the structure.
* Corrosion of reinforcing steel: This can lead to significant structural damage and potential collapse.
Prevention and mitigation:
* Proper concrete mix design: Using the right mix proportions and additives can improve the durability and resistance to water penetration.
* Adequate concrete cover: Sufficient concrete cover around the rebar acts as a protective barrier.
* Use of corrosion inhibitors: These chemicals can help slow down the rusting process.
* Regular inspections and maintenance: Identifying and addressing potential issues early on can prevent major problems.
If you suspect that rusting rebar is causing cracks in your concrete, it's crucial to consult with a qualified structural engineer to assess the situation and recommend appropriate solutions.
So true and very well said. There is one and only one time that you have the opportunity to get the foundation right. Whatever it costs, get it right the first time when you build the project. Well done Jake and thanks for sharing... 😁👍
You mentioned Joe's book but you didn't link it in the description. It would be helpful if you link things you talk about
Actually I've found moisture and air are critical for the basement. Two reasons first. Radon one crack was letting it all in. 2nd moisture. I should have sprayed under my slab not gps. it only takes one or two slightly imperfect seals to compromise it and let them in. spray the foam on the gravel taper up the walls. frame 1" off the concrete then spray.
You could say it's easy to _Lose Yourself_ in the details of a properly detailed foundation.
I see what you did there 🎤
Could you please do a followup video showing examples of all the things you discussed how to properly do it and also products used thank you. great videos keep up the great work we appreciate it!
You look like you’re a lot more in shape and healthy! Good for you Jake!
Thanks!
Would be nice for you to show on the house what you are discussing.
You mention the 15mil vapour barrier “is below the thermal control layer” but when you show it (19:25), it looks like it’s on top of the insulation… can you confirm it’s placed between the insulation and concrete (above the thermal control layer), not the insulation and sub grade?
It is actually above the thermal control layer. Not certain why I said it backwards. Always on top on our jobs because it keeps the concrete from getting below the foam and making the foam float in the concrete, ask me how I figured that out.
Great info , but having video clips of the install on these various processes would make this information 10x more helpful.
While you're not wrong, this video series isn't about that.
I agree with you. Adding an illustration or photo would convey information much more efficiently. I'm not knocking the presentation. Some really good info was passed along, but some simple illustrations would have taken it to the next level.
I agree water prevention on the outside of the wall to prevent bulk and vapor intrusion, but... the water the insurance in referring to is water from something happening in the home such as supply line ruptured or water heater in the attic popping a line and flooding the entire home. What i see is insurance companies not even covering water intrusion with the exception of roofs. Love the show and thank you for sharing your and yall's building expertise.
I am curious about how this all relates to ICF, in particular using a continuous monolithic pour of the footing with the ICF. What measures should be take in such systems? Sealing the outer foam and a dimple mat? Do we connect the inner and outer drain tile below the footing, or through the footing (with a PVC pipe placed before the pour)? Are there additives for the concrete that we can apply during mixing to improve things, like a sealant throughout?
I so appreciate this video... I have learned so much essential information. Thank you!!!
We love our basements in Missouri but hitting line stone when Escavating can be a bitch ( Trackhoe rock chippers or dynamite 💥comes in real handy).
Visuals would have made this video so good
Visuals are sorely lacking. Needs it.
Great video and well explained my friend.
Great content. One question with the 15mm vapor/gas barrier do you still need to have a fan and pipe to exhaust radon up and out?
I would love if you can answer this question.
Thanks
Great stuff once again
Shoutout to Toronto 🎉
I'm planning on using Form-A-Drain (or something similar) on our upcoming build since the inner "ring" of the drain can be used for radon mitigation as well as water drainage. I know several of the ICF manufacturers have product that is single sided with the foam, it's normally used for swimming pools but I don't see any reason your couldn't put the plywood to the OUTSIDE rather than the inside of the build. That way you would have your continuous foam insulation with integrated "studs" on the inside and a (relatively) smooth and continuous concrete wall on the outside with no hidden path for the termites to burrow through.
Since the rigid insulation is not taped wouldn't warm moist air be able to reach the concrete? Then water will condense on the concrete.
Will you have another air barrier in the interior? Smart vapour barrier or use drywall as the air barrier?
Is there a video for which foundation to use? Concrete vs CMUs vs ICf vs wood?
Hi…wouldn’t a 23:43 23:43 23:43 precast pier or helical pier system, raising the structure above grade, with below grade drain to air, and natural ground sloped away from the building (without foundation at all resolve all basement/crawspace issues with out expensive fixes?)
Thank you for sharing!
This video got me curious and made me look at what's new on the market... You'll get a kick out of this. Apparently Sika has a new concrete system/package that is guaranteed waterproof. It's pretty neat - seems to be a combination of admixtures, clever joint tech, plugs, and special penetration tech. Check it out.
this was an amazing video!
If you don't get the water away from the house, you're gonna have problems someday Proper grade is essential. Also the buyer should be made aware of the drain tile, where it a exits out of the ground. I also believe you should use preforated pipe with a sock and gravel to the exit point in the yard. The buyer should be made aware the it is his responsibility to keep the exit points open and free of debris. I would guess that many homeowners are unaware that they even have these drainage systems around the foundation and the maintance issues involved. By the way, I live in North Georgia and every home I built had a walk in basement. I never had drainage issues.
There's not a lot of basements in SoCal here, and I've "heard" it's because the clay soil tends to put a lot of pressure on basement walls when it gets soaked then shrinks when it dries. Personally if I had a new construction home I'd like a basement. Along with all concrete walls for the wild fires.
What about the fiberglass mat material against the foundation instead of a dimple mat? Supposedly those systems relieve the water pressure just as well but I haven't been able to find any long term info on that method.
I am building a walk out basement house on fractured basalt rock. Want a NON moldy basement. My area has mild winters, but may freeze several times in the winter. Most times it snows, it melts by the end of the day.
Well-done! Thanks!
What was the roll on water proofing brand?
You don't use gravel layer in foundations in the north as a water management you use it to prevent frost heaving, water management is just a handy side effect that happens with a gravel bed.
One could say that managing the water reduces frost heaving, too.
Also, I was under the impression that digging it deep enough was the primary way of dealing with heaving
@@CrapE_DM you can but the right soil type also lowers it and that soil type of choice is often gravel. Frost level in the north (that is arctic circle) can go down to 180cm or even more but with the right soil type it can drop to only 40cm and there is a huge difference in needing to dig a 2meters extra or just 40cm.
Does all this apply for Los Angeles area?
Great video!
You keep talking about water management as though we can't see the pond behind you. Why isn't that sloped toward a drain to daylight?
You shouldn't do that. That's why. That's just rain water.
And it ain't level......a puddle will show it every time
I never understood the term "cold climate" because at least in the USA all the coldest places I can think of also get really hot part of the year. So why are building science people talking about cold climates rather than mixed climates?
www.energy.gov/eere/buildings/climate-zones
do you install vapor barrier before or after insulation?
Typically after
@@buildshow thank you!
Couldn't you install ridged insulation on the outside of the foundation then cover it with a dimple membrane? so its protected.
The dimple mat is more for drainage then protection to the wall
If it’s a crawl space, poly iso and foundation drain detail works great
Formosa termites will still burrow into foam insulations, this is brought up all the time in the context of ICF construction that there is just no way do below grade insulation without creating an inaccessible and hidden path for termites to get into the structure.
@ so when they get through the polyiso, they hit masonry
@@daverohner271 then they follow the masonry up hidden until they get into the house above grade. No visible mud trails, no external signs that they are in there.
And there's no way for exterminators to treat exterior foam insulation that guarantees to kill an infestation that's in the foam.
@ so your point is there is no way to detect
So plan to treat of your area is prone to infestation
What about bluskin, it can handle cracking.
if it was installed with out a seam.......in time the primer will fail.... water will get in through the seam...that is if it is installed properly...chances are the installers just want to get the job done quickly...poorly applied primer...no proper tack up time ..etc. when back filling the foundation , rocks get pushed up against the foundation wall,this will damage the blueskin.... dont forget the price difference..blue skin is expensive ,to install.....the dimple matt even if poorly installed will weep away moisture to the drain tile
0:19 I didnt realize Em got into construction
How about ICF?
We use two layers of 6 mil for the above reasons stated.
Great info but I find it really boring for you to stand there talking the entire time without showing video and images that demonstrate what you’re talking about. I’m not trying to be a troll; I just don’t understand using the medium of TH-cam and not including any actual video of what you’re talking about (except for a quick look at some dimple mat). You may as well just do a podcast.
5:20 great dimple mat overlap, 5:45 terrible overlap (if you even want to call it overlap).
👍
a couple more pictures or detailed drawings would be worth several thousand words.
Look, if you had one shot or one opportunity
To seize everything you ever wanted in one moment
Would you capture it or just let it slip?😮
Just embrace it and do the Eminem meme haha
This is utube you need to show what your talking about.
Who is your engineer? How much did the engineer cost you?
Terrible flow in this video. Where’s the thumbs down arrow? lol😂
You are literally standing in your job sight and you didn't show us your work ? Sorry.... but after a few minutes of this, I simply could not listen to this any longer.
build show doesn't really show you how to build anymore
Too much bla,bla,bla and not show details. There's a reason is call a video.
Who peed in your corn flakes?
It would be extremely helpful to have diagrams. Just talking is boring and uninformative.
That concrete floor behind you was very poorly done.
Yuy