Fascinating, Fraser . . . many challenges lie ahead! I will be interested to see how you get your swell pedals to work, connection-wise, whether into MIDI or direct into the computer for Hauptwerk via usb. Also . . . you might want to make an 'inclined housing' on a wooden plate for the swell pedals to be attached somehow above the pedal board so that they are at the usual sort of angle as found on a modern console. Time will tell - but you are a winner and all solutions are there: they just have to be found!
I would not cut of the 1/4 TRS (tip,ring,sleeve) jack plugs off. Purchase some TRS sockets (cheap) and wire your IDC plugs cables (the rainbow ones0 to the socket for each pedal! I have made many of the cables and wiring accessories for my project - happy to help with any difficult assembly. I have some me made pistons and they work well - they cost about Euro 3 each complete!
Hi Fraser, the ribbon cables and connectors are easy to work with. I have assembled many of these and I use a small vise to install the connector. You need to have smooth jaws on the vise so you don't damage the connector. On your swell pedals you might want to consider not cutting the connector off, instead buy matching jacks and soldering those to your interface cable. That gives you more options. Just make sure you by quality jacks, not the $0.10 jacks from China. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you with this.
That's not a bad idea! I have seen other solutions using female jacks on circuit boards. I shall look into it... It would definitely make things a lot more flexible.
I wanted exactly to say this! Keeping things modular with connectors, and original things original is always a good idea! I have some experience with model railway electronics, there it is also important to keep things modular, so the parts do not get to large to work on or transport. The same there also with the cost of parts: many times, buying them specially for railway modelling tends to be much more expensive than simply buy them in an electronics store. We use lots of cheap buttons there, also with lights.
Loving this hauptwerk series. I know a bit about the software side of things and midi routing if I can be of any help. I have personally got midi running over Ethernet to allow me to have three different samplesets on different computers round my house and run a composite 107 stop organ all using Piotr Grabowskis excellent free samplesets. More than happy to show pictures of how my setup works etc if of interest. Thank you for the continued entertainment!
In this video you touch on the aspect that I didn't like about the home build organs. The woodwork aspect. To me even the "pro" build cabinets from Holland not to my fancy. Some guy's in the US was lucky to get old church consoles. The swells pedal is a midi trigger. Mine I build in 5 positions where a keyboard allocated key activate each position same as each of the Hauptwerk registers. Right click on piston, it allocate and you just OK. I used a PS2 keyboard controller with IC and connected all pistons, stops ect to that. Use old organ registers as Midi triggers modified to work as "doorbell" switch. With the PS2 board you can have as many pistons and registers as there are keys on a PS2 PC keyboard. On my organ 62 midi triggers wired to the PS2. Don't forget the foot pistons above the pedal board. On the other organ in the small chapel I built in 3 of those including a "Full organ" (FF on the great division). Remember your pistons is midi triggers... You can allocate it yourself OR the organ software choose for you... press and a OK screen appear. Great about that donated sample set!
Hi Fraser! Yet another wonderful video, as always. The technical side of organs fascinates me, although I understand valves much better than 'silicon chips'! The bi-lingual method is good, in my opinion, although I wonder how 'faffing about' (one of my favourite phrases) translates into German. Static electricity was the death to digital microchips at one time. But they're more robust nowadays, so don't worry too much about the naysayers who are convinced you'll kill the whole thing with your woolly jumper or nylon shirt. Although it does no harm to discharge yourself occasionally to a radiator or similar. Cheers!, Pete
I think the word you might’ve been looking for at 6:25 would be “Keycheecks” at least that’s what they’re called in America! Also, I don’t know how set in stone your piston placement/function is, but from an ergonomic design perspective, I’d recommend placing your next pistons in the middle of each manual (This way you have the highest likely hood of being able to reach it with either hand) and to only have one back piston on the entire console. Like you mentioned, you’d only really use it if you’ve made a mistake, so having only one place to go when you’re in the heat of performance eliminates any sub-decision of which back pistons to press, you just immediately go to the only one you know the console has. 😄 You might think these are pretty experimental or uncommon practices but they actually come from the American Municipal School of organ-building so you don’t find it on many other organs across the world. These of course are just some suggestions for you to think about, design your console how you want to!
Hi Fraser. Ich bin Joel und ich bin 15 jahre alt. Ich habe sehr viel ahnung mit holz und ich würde alles tun um dir für das Hauptwerk Projekt ein Gestell für die "Orgelteile" zu bauen das das so aussieht als hättest du eine echte Orgel bei dir stehen. Wegen corona beschäftige ich mich in jeder freien Minute mit Projekten da ich ja nichts anderes zu tun habe. Wir können das Gestell planen und ich lasse mich auf deine Wünsche ein. Ich weiß du denkst dir vielleicht "Bor das kann ja nur mit einer Katastrophe enden" aber ich hab bei mir nebenan eine eisdiele und da hab ich eine Wand und eine neue Theke gebaut und das sieht Super aus. Ich würde mich mega über eine Rückmeldung freuen und das ich dir bei dem Projekt helfen darf. MFG Joel
Ein sehr großzügiges Angebot, Joel. Ich bin sicher, Fraser wird Ihre Großzügigkeit zu schätzen wissen. . . obwohl Sie selbst wissen werden, wie nichts dieses Gefühl übertreffen kann, es selbst zu tun und Erfolg zu haben!
For pistons - use diode isolation between each on a then a common wire - just the same as keyboards. No need for ribbon cable to each piston (manual or toe) Each midi channel can do 16 pistons or other accessory
Maybe you could get the dimensions of an already-existing console and try to create a similar looking one. Or maybe just use it as inspiration to make your own, unique console! Can't wait to see what you've got in store for the project; it's going to be wonderful! Also, maybe you could get pistons which have a blank number that light up when you turn the console on. It'd look black when off, while also lighting them up while you play/when it's on.
Your piston options are quite “Continental “! It is only a matter of labelling but how about reserving two generals (or adding 2 more) for bank up and bank down to select a set of generals?
"Connecting together" - Fraser this would become a never ending mess and frustration. I know what I'm advising - but I think there is no other stable /reliable way: You first have to construct and build some kind of complete console (Spieltisch) - at best beside the PC table. ALL of that many parts need a place, all cables might be bent for many times - but soon you will be searching for failures if everything is laying on the table. Also - how to operate pistons that are laying on the table - always sliding away from you instead of changing the setting. Also, you are talking of soldering - please keep in mind, al soldering on cables are weak positions in respect of movements. In case of your pedals: I recommend you buy online some 3.5mm sockets and solder them to the loose cable. I know what I say (many years of hobby and professional work). I also know that's a tremendous act of decisions, planning and not so interesting work .
For your pedalboard I note it has a Centronics type plug. This was the type used for printers before USB. There will be a signal wire to each note via a diode and then 1 wire for each number of notes (usually 12 - depends upon your controller) A 32 note pedal board will usually have 17 connections - one for each note C, C# etc =12 then one of each octave (3) =17 in all! You could find a Centronics socket and wire this to your interface via 1 ribbon cable (would be a wide one) or just use 2 ribbon cables. This allows removal of pedal board just like removal of the expression pedals as I suggested before. Not a good idea to hard wire straight to the controller.
Thanks for your help Ian - I’m hoping you’re right about the Centronics plug. I’ll be on the lookout for a socket and have that wired to the midiboard. It might be easier than I thought after all. Regarding pistons, that’s going to be more of a challenge as I have NO idea what I’m doing. Your talk of diodes and all that jazz went in one ear and back out the other! Don’t forget - I’m only a musician!😂
Regarding a good value 4-manual Hauptwerk sample set, I would recommend Sonus Paradisi's Billerbeck Dom sample set, as it's very realistic and can handle almost any kind of music. Also, it has a massive tutti with 16-8-4' chamades! Do be aware of how much RAM and storage it consumes though. You only need volume 1(free) and volume 2- volume 3 is not necessary, as it only contains the dry samples.
Hey, ich suche auch nach guten Pistons. Könntest du evtl. die Seite in die Beschreibung stellen, auf der du deine gefunden hast? Viel Erfolg bei deinem Projekt :)
hi Fraser, danke für den schnellen Versand der CD, wie wäre es wenn Du eine Exel Tabelle machst mit den Kosten, so das man sehen kann, wenn die Orgel fertig ist, wie die effektiven Kosten sind. Mit wie viel man rechnen muss, wenn ich die nachbauen will.
Hallo Fraser, Falls du Hilfe brauchst, ich kenne mich mit Elektronik aus, habe all die Werkzeuge, wovon du wahrscheinlich träumst, um den Spieltisch zu bauen, ich kann mit AutoCAD, mir stehen Dreh und Fräsmaschine etc zur Verfügung und ich habe mich selber schon mit der Materie Hauptwerk etwas beschäftigt und will mir auch ein solches System aufbauen. Ich wohne gar nicht so weit weg von dir, arbeite ganz in deiner Gegend. Bei mir ist die Orgel nur Hobby, ansonsten bin ich mehr in der Technik zuhause.
@Fraser Gartshore ...can you check with organ repair or store for trade in, to have a shell or console for your 4 manuals? Abandoned organs. How about display shelves? Try asking tradesmen shop, were they teach youngsters to craft wood. I look forward to hearing from your new organ.
Hallo Fraser Gartshore für die Klinkenstecker (Schweller) gibt es auch Buchsen wo du Drähte anschrauben kannst, so musst du die Stecker nicht abschneiden und verlierst nicht die Gewährleistung und Garantie. Mach weiter und bleib gesund.
Klasse Video!! Ich weiß nicht wie es den anderen Zuschauern geht, aber von mir aus würde es reichen wenn Sie die Videos auf Englisch sprechen. Wie auch immer: Mach weiter so!!
Have you figured out how you want to implement control of couplers? With just more stop buttons/knobs or a row of rockers or reversibiles? My opinion of sequential pistons has been completely changed, in particular, by the performances of Thomas Ospital, titulaire at St. Eustache. He uses them masterfully, and with such elegance that he accomplishes performances scarcely possible with conventional pistons. Best of luck, good wishes, and regards,
Hi Jim. I'm going to be concentrating on sequencer/stepper combinations for repertoire, so no need for separate coupler controls. At some point in the future, as and when funds allow, I will likely invest in touchscreens for either side of the console to allow for spontaneous stop changes / registration etc.
Wenn es Plus-Minus-Tasten für die Sequenzen(?)/Voreinstellungen gibt, haben die dann auch eine kleine (Nummern-)Anzeige dabei, auf der man die aktuelle Einstellung sieht? Kommt halt auch darauf an, wie notwendig ein Bildschirm zum normalen Spielbetrieb sein soll, je mehr Informationen er darstellen muss, desto größer muss/sollte er sein.
Spend a few euros and buy some simple kits so you can practice soldering. That way you can make your mistakes on something you don't really care about and maybe end up with a nice little touch lamp or a clock. Soldering is easy to do, but is difficult to do well.
Be aware: The last cables - this seems to be non worked material. At least on central side you need a plug. They are pressed on (I wrote an e-mail offering help). On the other side there will either be another connector or you might untangle and solder it somewere.
Why don’t you build a cabinet similar to a conventional organ cabinet to support your keyboards? You can use good quality cabinet grade plywood to construct it and leave access in the back.
Electronics an earthing: Many circuits are not sensible. But some are. The beasty thing: Many if not most of the sensible parts are not dying but they are suffering. So: If one might expect something to last >> 20 years (ordinary for electronics) those with harm of static discharge will die in some years (
Hi Fraser or Mr. Gartshore! Ich fände das toll, wenn Sie einmal richtigen schottischen Akzent sprechen würden (I love the Corries and Gary Anderson the darts player)! 😉 Liebe Grüße aus Aix-la-Chapelle from a former Member of the Cathedral Choir!
Die Teile sind nicht so empfindlich, wie manche tun. Solange du nicht mit Gummisohlen über Teppich gelaufen bist, was in deinem Büro ja nicht der Fall ist, ist alles gut.
These German/English videos are a bit difficult to go through. It adds unnecessarily to their length (German speaking is so much longer than English - I spent almost two years in Germany). By the way, I am wondering why you even decided to build this organ yourself (with your limited technical abilities). I think that your valuable time could have been used better.
I like the bilingual presentation for technical topics. For those who understand only one of the languages there is a time to pause and think about what was said without it being one long string of techno-babble, for those who understand both there is a second chance to understand what was said. On the other hand, when the music is the focus then the monolingual presentation is better.
How do you manage to bounce back and forth from English to German and back to English and back to German so quickly?! It’s impressive!
Fascinating, Fraser . . . many challenges lie ahead! I will be interested to see how you get your swell pedals to work, connection-wise, whether into MIDI or direct into the computer for Hauptwerk via usb. Also . . . you might want to make an 'inclined housing' on a wooden plate for the swell pedals to be attached somehow above the pedal board so that they are at the usual sort of angle as found on a modern console. Time will tell - but you are a winner and all solutions are there: they just have to be found!
I've just had a productive chat with my Father-in-law - he knows all about DIY things... More in the next video!
Really enjoying this Fraser! Also helping the rusty German!!!
George Gershwin was a fantastic composer !
So much work to put all of these components together !
I would not cut of the 1/4 TRS (tip,ring,sleeve) jack plugs off. Purchase some TRS sockets (cheap) and wire your IDC plugs cables (the rainbow ones0 to the socket for each pedal!
I have made many of the cables and wiring accessories for my project - happy to help with any difficult assembly. I have some me made pistons and they work well - they cost about Euro 3 each complete!
Hi Fraser, the ribbon cables and connectors are easy to work with. I have assembled many of these and I use a small vise to install the connector. You need to have smooth jaws on the vise so you don't damage the connector. On your swell pedals you might want to consider not cutting the connector off, instead buy matching jacks and soldering those to your interface cable. That gives you more options. Just make sure you by quality jacks, not the $0.10 jacks from China. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you with this.
That's not a bad idea! I have seen other solutions using female jacks on circuit boards. I shall look into it... It would definitely make things a lot more flexible.
I wanted exactly to say this! Keeping things modular with connectors, and original things original is always a good idea! I have some experience with model railway electronics, there it is also important to keep things modular, so the parts do not get to large to work on or transport. The same there also with the cost of parts: many times, buying them specially for railway modelling tends to be much more expensive than simply buy them in an electronics store. We use lots of cheap buttons there, also with lights.
Loving this hauptwerk series. I know a bit about the software side of things and midi routing if I can be of any help. I have personally got midi running over Ethernet to allow me to have three different samplesets on different computers round my house and run a composite 107 stop organ all using Piotr Grabowskis excellent free samplesets. More than happy to show pictures of how my setup works etc if of interest. Thank you for the continued entertainment!
In this video you touch on the aspect that I didn't like about the home build organs. The woodwork aspect. To me even the "pro" build cabinets from Holland not to my fancy. Some guy's in the US was lucky to get old church consoles. The swells pedal is a midi trigger. Mine I build in 5 positions where a keyboard allocated key activate each position same as each of the Hauptwerk registers. Right click on piston, it allocate and you just OK. I used a PS2 keyboard controller with IC and connected all pistons, stops ect to that. Use old organ registers as Midi triggers modified to work as "doorbell" switch. With the PS2 board you can have as many pistons and registers as there are keys on a PS2 PC keyboard. On my organ 62 midi triggers wired to the PS2. Don't forget the foot pistons above the pedal board. On the other organ in the small chapel I built in 3 of those including a "Full organ" (FF on the great division). Remember your pistons is midi triggers... You can allocate it yourself OR the organ software choose for you... press and a OK screen appear. Great about that donated sample set!
Bravo Fraser!! This is fantastic!!! Making progress indeed. Very exciting 😊
Yeah! Thanks a lot! Das trotz der Arbeit noch die Post 📬 erledigt wird, super, freu😃🙌
Hallo, mein "unboxing" der cd 📀 durfte ich schon genießen😁😉Leider fehlen noch die Noten 🎵… .😞
Very excited for the content that is waiting for us!
Ich wünsche dir viel Erfolg mit deinem Projekt, der sehr toll ist!!
Hi Fraser! Yet another wonderful video, as always. The technical side of organs fascinates me, although I understand valves much better than 'silicon chips'! The bi-lingual method is good, in my opinion, although I wonder how 'faffing about' (one of my favourite phrases) translates into German. Static electricity was the death to digital microchips at one time. But they're more robust nowadays, so don't worry too much about the naysayers who are convinced you'll kill the whole thing with your woolly jumper or nylon shirt. Although it does no harm to discharge yourself occasionally to a radiator or similar. Cheers!, Pete
I think the word you might’ve been looking for at 6:25 would be “Keycheecks” at least that’s what they’re called in America!
Also, I don’t know how set in stone your piston placement/function is, but from an ergonomic design perspective, I’d recommend placing your next pistons in the middle of each manual (This way you have the highest likely hood of being able to reach it with either hand) and to only have one back piston on the entire console. Like you mentioned, you’d only really use it if you’ve made a mistake, so having only one place to go when you’re in the heat of performance eliminates any sub-decision of which back pistons to press, you just immediately go to the only one you know the console has. 😄 You might think these are pretty experimental or uncommon practices but they actually come from the American Municipal School of organ-building so you don’t find it on many other organs across the world. These of course are just some suggestions for you to think about, design your console how you want to!
Hi Fraser. Ich bin Joel und ich bin 15 jahre alt. Ich habe sehr viel ahnung mit holz und ich würde alles tun um dir für das Hauptwerk Projekt ein Gestell für die "Orgelteile" zu bauen das das so aussieht als hättest du eine echte Orgel bei dir stehen. Wegen corona beschäftige ich mich in jeder freien Minute mit Projekten da ich ja nichts anderes zu tun habe. Wir können das Gestell planen und ich lasse mich auf deine Wünsche ein. Ich weiß du denkst dir vielleicht "Bor das kann ja nur mit einer Katastrophe enden" aber ich hab bei mir nebenan eine eisdiele und da hab ich eine Wand und eine neue Theke gebaut und das sieht Super aus. Ich würde mich mega über eine Rückmeldung freuen und das ich dir bei dem Projekt helfen darf. MFG Joel
Ein sehr großzügiges Angebot, Joel. Ich bin sicher, Fraser wird Ihre Großzügigkeit zu schätzen wissen. . . obwohl Sie selbst wissen werden, wie nichts dieses Gefühl übertreffen kann, es selbst zu tun und Erfolg zu haben!
I was able to get a package from the UK to here in Australia last week. It was no problem, and it was a tractor part, not just a CD!
For pistons - use diode isolation between each on a then a common wire - just the same as keyboards. No need for ribbon cable to each piston (manual or toe) Each midi channel can do 16 pistons or other accessory
Maybe you could get the dimensions of an already-existing console and try to create a similar looking one. Or maybe just use it as inspiration to make your own, unique console! Can't wait to see what you've got in store for the project; it's going to be wonderful!
Also, maybe you could get pistons which have a blank number that light up when you turn the console on. It'd look black when off, while also lighting them up while you play/when it's on.
Your piston options are quite “Continental “! It is only a matter of labelling but how about reserving two generals (or adding 2 more) for bank up and bank down to select a set of generals?
Hi Fraser.......... I'm back. I hope one day I would like to work with you while I play drums once everything's ok. You're the best organist there is.
Gershwin and God... Wunderbar!
"Connecting together" - Fraser this would become a never ending mess and frustration.
I know what I'm advising - but I think there is no other stable /reliable way:
You first have to construct and build some kind of complete console (Spieltisch) - at best beside the PC table. ALL of that many parts need a place, all cables might be bent for many times - but soon you will be searching for failures if everything is laying on the table. Also - how to operate pistons that are laying on the table - always sliding away from you instead of changing the setting. Also, you are talking of soldering - please keep in mind, al soldering on cables are weak positions in respect of movements.
In case of your pedals: I recommend you buy online some 3.5mm sockets and solder them to the loose cable.
I know what I say (many years of hobby and professional work). I also know that's a tremendous act of decisions, planning and not so interesting work .
hi fraser love your videos
"Oh boy" is right. I'd be totally lost. 🥴 - 😄
For your pedalboard I note it has a Centronics type plug. This was the type used for printers before USB. There will be a signal wire to each note via a diode and then 1 wire for each number of notes (usually 12 - depends upon your controller) A 32 note pedal board will usually have 17 connections - one for each note C, C# etc =12 then one of each octave (3) =17 in all! You could find a Centronics socket and wire this to your interface via 1 ribbon cable (would be a wide one) or just use 2 ribbon cables. This allows removal of pedal board just like removal of the expression pedals as I suggested before. Not a good idea to hard wire straight to the controller.
Thanks for your help Ian - I’m hoping you’re right about the Centronics plug. I’ll be on the lookout for a socket and have that wired to the midiboard. It might be easier than I thought after all. Regarding pistons, that’s going to be more of a challenge as I have NO idea what I’m doing. Your talk of diodes and all that jazz went in one ear and back out the other! Don’t forget - I’m only a musician!😂
Regarding a good value 4-manual Hauptwerk sample set, I would recommend Sonus Paradisi's Billerbeck Dom sample set, as it's very realistic and can handle almost any kind of music. Also, it has a massive tutti with 16-8-4' chamades! Do be aware of how much RAM and storage it consumes though. You only need volume 1(free) and volume 2- volume 3 is not necessary, as it only contains the dry samples.
I wish I lived in Germany so I could help you build a console. I'm also pretty handy with a soldering iron. Oh well, good luck with the project!
Hey, ich suche auch nach guten Pistons. Könntest du evtl. die Seite in die Beschreibung stellen, auf der du deine gefunden hast? Viel Erfolg bei deinem Projekt :)
hi Fraser, danke für den schnellen Versand der CD,
wie wäre es wenn Du eine Exel Tabelle machst mit den Kosten, so das man sehen kann, wenn die Orgel fertig ist, wie die effektiven Kosten sind. Mit wie viel man rechnen muss, wenn ich die nachbauen will.
Hallo Fraser,
Falls du Hilfe brauchst, ich kenne mich mit Elektronik aus, habe all die Werkzeuge, wovon du wahrscheinlich träumst, um den Spieltisch zu bauen, ich kann mit AutoCAD, mir stehen Dreh und Fräsmaschine etc zur Verfügung und ich habe mich selber schon mit der Materie Hauptwerk etwas beschäftigt und will mir auch ein solches System aufbauen. Ich wohne gar nicht so weit weg von dir, arbeite ganz in deiner Gegend. Bei mir ist die Orgel nur Hobby, ansonsten bin ich mehr in der Technik zuhause.
Exciting as always
Kleiner Tipp:
Mach die 10 Pistons nicht unters erste sondern unters zweite Manuall da ist meistens das Hauptwerk und es ist bedeutend bequemer.
Naja, ich spiele deutlich mehr französische Orgelmusik als alles anderes - also Unten ist für mich sinnvoller!🇫🇷
@@FraserGartshore Gut für französische Orgeln ist es besser da da ja das Hauptwerk meistens unten ist.
Don't worry Fraser, if you can wrench on a Mercedes you'll do fine with soldering. :)
@Fraser Gartshore ...can you check with organ repair or store for trade in, to have a shell or console for your 4 manuals? Abandoned organs. How about display shelves? Try asking tradesmen shop, were they teach youngsters to craft wood. I look forward to hearing from your new organ.
Hallo Fraser Gartshore für die Klinkenstecker (Schweller) gibt es auch Buchsen wo du Drähte anschrauben kannst, so musst du die Stecker nicht abschneiden und verlierst nicht die Gewährleistung und Garantie.
Mach weiter und bleib gesund.
Klasse Video!! Ich weiß nicht wie es den anderen Zuschauern geht, aber von mir aus würde es reichen wenn Sie die Videos auf Englisch sprechen. Wie auch immer: Mach weiter so!!
😅Bitte nicht! 🙏
Nee so gut ist mein Englisch jetzt nicht und außerdem kann ich ein bißchen englisch lernen.
haha 2:17 der Versprecher ich liebe es
I was referring to toe pistons - not keyboard ones! HW works ok with momentary switches but difficult to have lit or unlit, of course.
Have you figured out how you want to implement control of couplers? With just more stop buttons/knobs or a row of rockers or reversibiles? My opinion of sequential pistons has been completely changed, in particular, by the performances of Thomas Ospital, titulaire at St. Eustache. He uses them masterfully, and with such elegance that he accomplishes performances scarcely possible with conventional pistons.
Best of luck, good wishes, and regards,
Hi Jim. I'm going to be concentrating on sequencer/stepper combinations for repertoire, so no need for separate coupler controls. At some point in the future, as and when funds allow, I will likely invest in touchscreens for either side of the console to allow for spontaneous stop changes / registration etc.
Mark in Chicago. Waiting to assemble Paramount 450 with huge speaker system
Wenn es Plus-Minus-Tasten für die Sequenzen(?)/Voreinstellungen gibt, haben die dann auch eine kleine (Nummern-)Anzeige dabei, auf der man die aktuelle Einstellung sieht?
Kommt halt auch darauf an, wie notwendig ein Bildschirm zum normalen Spielbetrieb sein soll, je mehr Informationen er darstellen muss, desto größer muss/sollte er sein.
Spend a few euros and buy some simple kits so you can practice soldering. That way you can make your mistakes on something you don't really care about and maybe end up with a nice little touch lamp or a clock.
Soldering is easy to do, but is difficult to do well.
An excellent idea. Also there are videos that show you how to make quality joints; worth investing a bit of time before you attack the real thing.
Can't find part 3
th-cam.com/video/NtWUg9nIZ7g/w-d-xo.html
"Hauptwerk Project | First Sounds? Erste Töne?"
It's missing the "part 3" in title, but it is indeed part 3.
Be aware: The last cables - this seems to be non worked material. At least on central side you need a plug. They are pressed on (I wrote an e-mail offering help). On the other side there will either be another connector or you might untangle and solder it somewere.
Can you not find a non working console destined for the dumpster-cheap (or free) to gut and use for this project?
Why don’t you build a cabinet similar to a conventional organ cabinet to support your keyboards?
You can use good quality cabinet grade plywood to construct it and leave access in the back.
There are companies that make wooden cheek blocks
Electronics an earthing:
Many circuits are not sensible. But some are.
The beasty thing: Many if not most of the sensible parts are not dying but they are suffering. So: If one might expect something to last >> 20 years (ordinary for electronics) those with harm of static discharge will die in some years (
Keine Stecker abschneiden, es gibt die passenden Buchsen zu kaufen.
Die Idee hatten schon ein paar anderen - ich denke das mache ich auch so. Danke!
Hi Fraser or Mr. Gartshore! Ich fände das toll, wenn Sie einmal richtigen schottischen Akzent sprechen würden (I love the Corries and Gary Anderson the darts player)! 😉 Liebe Grüße aus Aix-la-Chapelle from a former Member of the Cathedral Choir!
Tja, mein Akzent ist schottisch, nur nicht Glasgow! Wo ich her komme spricht man so - unser Akzent im Norden ist viel weicher!
Die Teile sind nicht so empfindlich, wie manche tun. Solange du nicht mit Gummisohlen über Teppich gelaufen bist, was in deinem Büro ja nicht der Fall ist, ist alles gut.
Hallo Fraser, Schau mal hier :
th-cam.com/video/QBhnpPdkhHM/w-d-xo.html
eine scheune Hauptwerk-orgel, vieleicht ein idee für dich.
These German/English videos are a bit difficult to go through. It adds unnecessarily to their length (German speaking is so much longer than English - I spent almost two years in Germany).
By the way, I am wondering why you even decided to build this organ yourself (with your limited technical abilities). I think that your valuable time could have been used better.
Hi, you should upload 2 videos, one in English and another in German.. it is unfollowable! 😬 keep going on!
When we go back to "normal" music videos, they'll be in separate videos!
I like the bilingual presentation for technical topics. For those who understand only one of the languages there is a time to pause and think about what was said without it being one long string of techno-babble, for those who understand both there is a second chance to understand what was said.
On the other hand, when the music is the focus then the monolingual presentation is better.