I mostly use Shotcut. There's a free version but you can upgrade for a meager 15 bucks. Fairly capable for the price and there's quite a few tutorials on TH-cam for it if your kinda computer illiterate like me 😊.
@@Just1GuyMetalworks The windows one was quick & easy but not as flash as most others . To me , editing is still a learning curve . I am trying Filmora9 , but text overlay is at this point a mission ! Thanks .
@@swanvalleymachineshop ha ha, a mission is saying it lightly 🤣. I still remember trying to edit my first vid, it was quite the emotional rollercoaster 🤬😭😃🤬😤😫🤨😕. It often still is 😁. Good luck, Max!
Thoroughly enjoying this Max…………I run a Harrison M300 here in the UK, which is quite similar in design in many ways. I also run a Boxford 5” centre height which I believe is a derivative of the Southbend. I’m slowly working my way through all of your old videos as well as keeping up with your latest releases………happy days!!
Nice job. Thank you for giving the full lot of information. We are all learning much and we all appreciate the effort put in to bring it to us. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
G'day Max, I've been enjoying your series on the mods to your lathe. The installation of the detent on the high low range selector is the best mod yet. I have exactly the same lathe and the same issue with selecting neutral, so I'll definitely making the that mod to mine. Excellent videos mate.
Max, I am surprised it took this long to get 1K plus subs as you do good/great stuff with clear explanations as well as good video work. Cheers from John, EC Australia.
Good call, if it ain't broke... much smarter than my fix it till it IS broke approach 🤣. Thanks for the share and congratulations on hitting 1k subs 😃!
Thanks once again for this wonderful series! As a recent subscriber, I not with interest that your subscription total has grown from ~1.00K to ~1.11K in just over 2 weeks time. If your content keeps being spread so more become aware, I predict your subscription base will continue to grow rapidly. I subscribe to many of the 'usual suspects' for machining/CNC and your content and production values are easily as good as many of them. Plus you are simply an excellent communicator! It's true that my immediate interest was driven partly by the fact that you've now documented maintenance, overhaul, and possible modifications for a lathe that is virtually identical to one I plan to purchase. However I will be going back to much of your other content and look forward to your continuing other projects and to whatever else you may choose to share.So glad you decided to leave in "the boring parts," as they are interesting and valuable to at least some of us. Thinking back on bingeing on parts 1 to 12A of this series over the past 3 days, I don't recall ever feeling that things were dragging. The only times I've fast forwarded were after going back to review earlier parts.
G day Max, Excellent series of video’s for all the back yarders having a go you have Shown us what to look for if we have issues 👍👍 you explain it the way it needs to be it has helped me 👍 All the best to ya
Good to see your growing... and another very fine production. Bit more pushing and prodding, and it will be like New.. Thanks again, good job well done.... Watch out for the Dugites and Tigers, when you go out to the Farm if there are any out your way.
Excellent demonstration on the angular alignment....I would suspect an often overlooked item. I'm on board with the others and your decision to leave as-is. My poor old SB Heavy 10 tailstock base was so worn (front droop) Had to mill off .020" and shim the heck out of it to get back to flat and true. Enjoying the series... Hay I passed one of your stickers along to Chuck B.....
Hi Max, a lot better than my tailstock was on my new lathe, the quill was that loose it rattled when drilling, more than 5 thou low and way out of alignment. I made a new quill to suit the tailstock bore and made it a precise fit after honing the roughly bored bore. To address the low tailstock I had 2 options, lower the headstock, proper way, or shim the tailstock, "lazy way", took the latter option and shimmed for alignment and set the tailstock 2.5 thou high to compensate for wear. As Chattonlad commented I am in total agreement. You made the right decision to leave it alone and with moderate use the tailstock will drop.
Thanks , better to be a tad high , like you say to allow for wear & am sure if a heavy part were supported by the centre it would drop a thou or so any way . Cheers .
well we picked that of center Morse taper like a snotty nose's Max . great video series as there are a lot of AL960b owners in Australia keep up the great work . :)
G’day Max don’t worry, I know how to stretch em out also. I must say the little fellow had a keen eye. I can’t talk before I started this hobby I could also do wonders with a bench grinder and angle grinder, a bit rough but as long as it works. Cheers Peter
I think how they get the accuracy is they fitted the base to the tailstock body then mounted the whole lot on a jig and bored the quill bore . I'm still scratching my head how they can spend the time to surface grind the surfaces of the cross slide but machine the v ways in the saddle with something that leaves a finish like it has been cut with a jackhammer!
enjoyed....curious when you used the blueing, would the marking change when the clamp is engaged? of course you couldn’t slide the parts to mark! IMO, think it is smart not to alter....FYI, Dean (the ayr cave shop) gave me one of your stickers and it is mounted on my cabinet by the mill....ATB
I was wondering how you would address rough surface on the bottom part of the tailstock, I am in agreement with your decision to leave it as is. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
My tailstock is dead on left/right, but is also high by 1.5 thousandths. I was hoping you were going to recommend a quick and easy solution. I don't know how to fixture the tool to grind it and am not really sure where the reference surfaces are other than the taper itself. Tricky stuff to get right.
I am interested to know why you want to keep the tailstock 1 & 1/2 thou high. I imagine that any movement when using it would tend to lift it making it worse ?
11/2 Lets it wear for a long time before it goes below centre , which is a major job to correct . The small amount above centre has no effect on accuracy of the machine at all . Cheers .
Don't feel bad it's the same way in the states, and what is made here , for the average Jo it's priced so high it might as well be unabtanium , that's why I take great pride in making it myself if I possibly can, or repairing.... Oh well maybe when the Chinese own it all , we'll get to meet up in the lathe casting department 😁😁🤣🤣🤣
They've done the same thing here in the states, they used to make steel here, but now it's imported and poor quality at that. They used to make car parts here, now they are imported. They used to make the whole car here, now at least 50% is made overseas and shipped in for assembly here. China gets rich and we take it in the arse.
The video editing programme that i have been using Windows Moviemaker bit the dust so i am in the middle of learning a new one !
Max Grant ,The Swan Valley Machine Shop. Where are you located?
@@godgavemeeverything9909 Perth , Western Australia .
I mostly use Shotcut. There's a free version but you can upgrade for a meager 15 bucks. Fairly capable for the price and there's quite a few tutorials on TH-cam for it if your kinda computer illiterate like me 😊.
@@Just1GuyMetalworks The windows one was quick & easy but not as flash as most others . To me , editing is still a learning curve . I am trying Filmora9 , but text overlay is at this point a mission ! Thanks .
@@swanvalleymachineshop ha ha, a mission is saying it lightly 🤣. I still remember trying to edit my first vid, it was quite the emotional rollercoaster 🤬😭😃🤬😤😫🤨😕.
It often still is 😁. Good luck, Max!
Thoroughly enjoying this Max…………I run a Harrison M300 here in the UK, which is quite similar in design in many ways. I also run a Boxford 5” centre height which I believe is a derivative of the Southbend.
I’m slowly working my way through all of your old videos as well as keeping up with your latest releases………happy days!!
Thanks . A small Boxford was the first lathe i ever used , 1978 ! 👍
Still watching this series with interest, as your machine is very similar to mine. Congratulations on the 1K subs, you deserve it! Onward and upward!
Thanks . As you know , it's a good mile stone to get to . Cheers .
I’m glad you didn’t skip any parts. Love the videos!
Thanks .
Nice job. Thank you for giving the full lot of information. We are all learning much and we all appreciate the effort put in to bring it to us. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
No worries Mate , Cheers .
G'day Max, I've been enjoying your series on the mods to your lathe. The installation of the detent on the high low range selector is the best mod yet. I have exactly the same lathe and the same issue with selecting neutral, so I'll definitely making the that mod to mine. Excellent videos mate.
Thanks . I will be re addressing that when i get time . Just to make it feel a bit more positive as the spring i have in is a bit too short . 👍
Max, I am surprised it took this long to get 1K plus subs as you do good/great stuff with clear explanations as well as good video work.
Cheers from John, EC Australia.
Thanks John . I was happy to get to 200 !!! Cheers .
No worry's about dragging it out lots of good info.
Ok ! Thanks .
Thanks for the series Max. Have loved every bit of it - and look forward to more! Congrats on the 1k subs.
Thanks Mate , Cheers .
Good call, if it ain't broke... much smarter than my fix it till it IS broke approach 🤣. Thanks for the share and congratulations on hitting 1k subs 😃!
Thanks Chris , Cheers .
Thanks once again for this wonderful series! As a recent subscriber, I not with interest that your subscription total has grown from ~1.00K to ~1.11K in just over 2 weeks time. If your content keeps being spread so more become aware, I predict your subscription base will continue to grow rapidly. I subscribe to many of the 'usual suspects' for machining/CNC and your content and production values are easily as good as many of them. Plus you are simply an excellent communicator!
It's true that my immediate interest was driven partly by the fact that you've now documented maintenance, overhaul, and possible modifications for a lathe that is virtually identical to one I plan to purchase. However I will be going back to much of your other content and look forward to your continuing other projects and to whatever else you may choose to share.So glad you decided to leave in "the boring parts," as they are interesting and valuable to at least some of us. Thinking back on bingeing on parts 1 to 12A of this series over the past 3 days, I don't recall ever feeling that things were dragging. The only times I've fast forwarded were after going back to review earlier parts.
Thanks Steve . Cheers .
That was a really interesting blind hole roll pin removal technique.
Always start with the easy methods first ! Cheers
G day Max,
Excellent series of video’s for all the back yarders having a go you have
Shown us what to look for if we have issues 👍👍
you explain it the way it needs to be
it has helped me 👍
All the best to ya
Thanks Mate . All the best .
Always loads to learn Max, Thanks for all the info. Have a great week.
Thanks Mate , you to . Cheers .
Good to see your growing... and another very fine production. Bit more pushing and prodding, and it will be like New.. Thanks again, good job well done.... Watch out for the Dugites and Tigers, when you go out to the Farm if there are any out your way.
Great series Max. Take care
Thanks .
Excellent demonstration on the angular alignment....I would suspect an often overlooked item. I'm on board with the others and your decision to leave as-is.
My poor old SB Heavy 10 tailstock base was so worn (front droop) Had to mill off .020" and shim the heck out of it to get back to flat and true. Enjoying the series...
Hay I passed one of your stickers along to Chuck B.....
Thanks Dean . Cheers .
Hi Max, a lot better than my tailstock was on my new lathe, the quill was that loose it rattled when drilling, more than 5 thou low and way out of alignment.
I made a new quill to suit the tailstock bore and made it a precise fit after honing the roughly bored bore.
To address the low tailstock I had 2 options, lower the headstock, proper way, or shim the tailstock, "lazy way", took the latter option and shimmed for alignment and set the tailstock 2.5 thou high to compensate for wear.
As Chattonlad commented I am in total agreement.
You made the right decision to leave it alone and with moderate use the tailstock will drop.
Thanks , better to be a tad high , like you say to allow for wear & am sure if a heavy part were supported by the centre it would drop a thou or so any way . Cheers .
I have an old machinist Mate like me and never moves the tailstock at the top, always at the base to prevent uneven wear.
Thanks Max , enjoyed the series as I have a similar H@F lathe that could do with some maintenance. Got to love the Australian made 🇦🇺
Thanks mate . The logo from the 70's ! Cheers .
Take all the time you need , your tale stock is setup the same as mine . I want to put a Z groove in it and oilers and a wick.
Ok i will ! Cheers .
well we picked that of center Morse taper like a snotty nose's Max . great video series as there are a lot of AL960b owners in Australia keep up the great work . :)
Thanks Ted . Cheers .
G’day Max don’t worry, I know how to stretch em out also. I must say the little fellow had a keen eye. I can’t talk before I started this hobby I could also do wonders with a bench grinder and angle grinder, a bit rough but as long as it works. Cheers
Peter
Thanks Pete , Cheers .
I think how they get the accuracy is they fitted the base to the tailstock body then mounted the whole lot on a jig and bored the quill bore .
I'm still scratching my head how they can spend the time to surface grind the surfaces of the cross slide but machine the v ways in the saddle with something that leaves a finish like it has been cut with a jackhammer!
I scratch my head as well , Their scraping look like it's been done with an air chisel !
Good plan max. Don’t go trying to fix it till it’s broke’
That's the plan , Cheers .
enjoyed....curious when you used the blueing, would the marking change when the clamp is engaged? of course you couldn’t slide the parts to mark! IMO, think it is smart not to alter....FYI, Dean (the ayr cave shop) gave me one of your stickers and it is mounted on my cabinet by the mill....ATB
Thanks Mate . Dean is a good bloke & has a great channel . Cheers .
I,m going to do the same thing on my bran new pm1440 oilers and wipers and try to get the cam to lock better Thanks
I still have to make wipers for the tail stock . I have drilled & tapped the retainer threads already .Cheers .
Awesome video max no I know how that tail stock comes apart. And put stickers in the mail today.
Cool . Thanks Anthony .
I was wondering how you would address rough surface on the bottom part of the tailstock, I am in agreement with your decision to leave it as is. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Thanks John , Cheers .
My tailstock is dead on left/right, but is also high by 1.5 thousandths. I was hoping you were going to recommend a quick and easy solution. I don't know how to fixture the tool to grind it and am not really sure where the reference surfaces are other than the taper itself. Tricky stuff to get right.
Leave it high . It wont effect anything & will wear in before it wears out .
I am interested to know why you want to keep the tailstock 1 & 1/2 thou high.
I imagine that any movement when using it would tend to lift it making it worse ?
11/2 Lets it wear for a long time before it goes below centre , which is a major job to correct . The small amount above centre has no effect on accuracy of the machine at all . Cheers .
hee upper part of the tail stock may be off too in a manner than compliments the inaccuracy of the base?
Possible . Thanks .
Don't feel bad it's the same way in the states, and what is made here , for the average Jo it's priced so high it might as well be unabtanium , that's why I take great pride in making it myself if I possibly can, or repairing.... Oh well maybe when the Chinese own it all , we'll get to meet up in the lathe casting department 😁😁🤣🤣🤣
Lol , thanks 👍
Looks as if it might have been finish line bored in situ hence the accuracy.
I think you are onto it there , there's no way that was done seperatley ! It's probably come from a basket of cock ups that they were able to re use !
They've done the same thing here in the states, they used to make steel here, but now it's imported and poor quality at that. They used to make car parts here, now they are imported. They used to make the whole car here, now at least 50% is made overseas and shipped in for assembly here. China gets rich and we take it in the arse.
Same thing here in Australia , it's got to stop someday .