This was a video I did last spring thats been sitting on my computer for a while. Here is the link to the Pin removal tool kit I bought. I got this larger one because I wanted the best chance of getting the needed sizes. As always thanks for watching and supporting the channel. amzn.to/3HI8BCS
Haha nice man. I spend 50% of my week on these Carrier RTU’s and when you said there was a call for cool but contactor wasn’t pulled in, I was yelling “go to the economizer plug!!” at the screen Those wires to the economizer tend to short out on the blower housing a lot of times too
I’m getting together a HVAC/R TH-cam Hall of Fame Qualifiers are 1. Are videos informative and helpful to not only public but techs 2. Personality of the Tech 3. Levels of knowledge and understanding in multiple aspects of the trade 4. Impact to the trade weather through community or simply through the channel I know I’m a nobody but it would be an awesome award to hand out. I’ve seen everyone from HVAC Guy to HVACR videos and I have you as number 2 on my HOF list. For whatever it’s worth, congrats lol
Thank you! Did you check out the 400+ videos I have? I cover a lot of different types of equipment. There is something exactly like what you’re describing called “HVAC Tactical Awards.” Search in out. (Who did you choose for number one? )
I have seen almost all of your videos to this point from your Survival channel. I hate to say who my number 1 is but since you asked ………. HVACR Videos!! I personally like you more but don’t share that lol
What i struggle to understand is that it comes with manuals...or they are readily available for download.....soooooo.....why does everyone still do craptastic work....what happened to pride in workmanship. Customers dont pay for hack work....even if thats all they want to pay for. I refuse to cut corners....if thats what you want....im not your guy. Rant over Thanks for sharing your knowledge Rick....your channel is one of my favorites....you know what you're doing....explain it....and your sense of humor align with mine as well....until the next adventure in HVAC land.
The BAS should be controlling the economizer, that's how I set it up on most of my buildings. I was surprised to see a jade controller in there. Alternatively you can setup y2, on a carrier rtu y2 will activate mechanical cooling if free cooling can't keep up.
You’re right on y2, a lot of people don’t understand they need a two stage thermostat for a single stage AC with economizer. This place has a cut rate budget, is why the economizer control is on the unit. like I mentioned, we literally took thermostats and put them in the return air ducts prior to this, and had to go on the roof to adjust them. This is in a secured building that couldn’t allow the thermostats to be available to the occupants below.
I had one with a failing outside air sensor and of course no jumper plug. You can use thermostat wires and just shove them in the empty plug in the right spot. Just look up what the jumper plug looks like.
The terminal release tools are pretty nifty, especially those ones on the ring, real easy to carry around. Not the biggest fan of the molex plugs that are completely open and exposed. They’d be better off using weatherpack connectors like machinery and cars do.
Would you know what a capital B suffix after the horsepower rating on a direct drive blower motor means? For example Hp-1/3B. I don't believe it stands for insulation class as that information is usually elsewhere on the motor data tag.
👉Here’s what I found. Design Letter (DES, NEMA DESIGN, DESIGN). NEMA defines four motor designs (A, B, C, and D) in terms of torque and current characteristics. (see tables below). Most motors are design B because of their comparatively high efficiency and torque characteristics. Design A motors may be more efficient but are used infrequently because their relatively high starting current can cause nuisance tripping of motor protection circuitry. Design A motors may also require larger than standard size starters. 👉Here is the link. Look about half way down. www.priestelectric.com/read-electric-motor-nameplate/
@@HVACRSurvival Something funny about this motor. I can't tell what the B means and a motor shop doesn't know. It's a Lennox 81G5001 and you would think if you matched it up any replacement motor it would work. But it doesn't. (Emerson K55HXJJS-2903) Well, a Dayton doesn't work. Maybe Lennox is proprietary?
I did Lennox my first 19 years. It’s likely a proprietary motor. But with a bracket and a universal motor it usually works. That must be a new furnace. I haven’t heard that model number before
@@HVACRSurvival I figured you the go to guy for Lennox as you always say how much you like them. ; ) Yeah, must be proprietary but you think if you match data it would work? Not so much. Runs overamp. Not much but SF is 1. Can't tell if I can trust that. Gotta keep mom warm.
@joehead1294 you got to focus on the amp draw rating, make sure the replacement motor is capable of more amps than the original motor. Today’s horsepower ratings are total lies….Carrier does the same bullshit.
BAS does not appear to be controlling the economizer.... would have checked Jade economize module before checking signal at economizer. Possible that Jade was not configured correctly or a bad sensor leading to no free cool or mechanical cooling? Always should leave factory jumper with the economizer, I put jumper wires through econo plug.
Awesome job getting it going, but who needs AC in winter? Haha The keys that you used for removing the wires do you have link for those to purchase? Those would come in handy
On the schematic, the jumper plug is shown between the plug and the economizer. For some dumb reason, some are male, and others are female. Leve it up to Carrier to screw up a wonderful idea.
When you checked in between r and c it only showed 24 volts and the control transformer is wired for 240 when it needed to be tapped for 208v I think you said you swapped them at the end of the video but whoever butchered that economizer needed to be fired lol
You’re correct. I like a little more than 24.0v if possible. I’ve seen more issues with lower voltage. 26v-27v is normal. Normally the circuit boards cut out at 29-30v.
This was a video I did last spring thats been sitting on my computer for a while. Here is the link to the Pin removal tool kit I bought. I got this larger one because I wanted the best chance of getting the needed sizes. As always thanks for watching and supporting the channel. amzn.to/3HI8BCS
Haha nice man. I spend 50% of my week on these Carrier RTU’s and when you said there was a call for cool but contactor wasn’t pulled in, I was yelling “go to the economizer plug!!” at the screen
Those wires to the economizer tend to short out on the blower housing a lot of times too
I know, I always look for shorts in the blower housing 👍👍
I’m getting together a HVAC/R TH-cam Hall of Fame
Qualifiers are
1. Are videos informative and helpful to not only public but techs
2. Personality of the Tech
3. Levels of knowledge and understanding in multiple aspects of the trade
4. Impact to the trade weather through community or simply through the channel
I know I’m a nobody but it would be an awesome award to hand out. I’ve seen everyone from HVAC Guy to HVACR videos and I have you as number 2 on my HOF list. For whatever it’s worth, congrats lol
Thank you! Did you check out the 400+ videos I have? I cover a lot of different types of equipment. There is something exactly like what you’re describing called “HVAC Tactical Awards.” Search in out. (Who did you choose for number one? )
I have seen almost all of your videos to this point from your Survival channel.
I hate to say who my number 1 is but since you asked ………. HVACR Videos!! I personally like you more but don’t share that lol
Me n Chris are buddy’s 🤣 but he called and told me his employee Will liked mine better than his videos🤣🤣 …we just tease each other. He’s a great guy.
What i struggle to understand is that it comes with manuals...or they are readily available for download.....soooooo.....why does everyone still do craptastic work....what happened to pride in workmanship. Customers dont pay for hack work....even if thats all they want to pay for. I refuse to cut corners....if thats what you want....im not your guy. Rant over
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Rick....your channel is one of my favorites....you know what you're doing....explain it....and your sense of humor align with mine as well....until the next adventure in HVAC land.
I hear you 👍👍🫶
Rick, thanks for the interesting video! Love all your entertaining content !
Thanks Teddy 🫶👍👍
Was hoping to meet you at Symposium last week.
Enjoy the work and attitude you share.
I wish I could have done both. I went to AHR because it was a 4 hour drive. I’m leaning towards Florida next year instead of AHR or possibly do both.
@@HVACRSurvival Believe AHR is back on Orlando next year.
I believe so
I always enjoy your videos Rick.
🤜🤛👍👍 thank you!
Learn from your videos you explain step by step thanks
You are smart. I like how you do things. Play some more videos up man. And teach us a little bit.
I’m posting every Sunday and short videos thru the week
The BAS should be controlling the economizer, that's how I set it up on most of my buildings. I was surprised to see a jade controller in there. Alternatively you can setup y2, on a carrier rtu y2 will activate mechanical cooling if free cooling can't keep up.
You’re right on y2, a lot of people don’t understand they need a two stage thermostat for a single stage AC with economizer. This place has a cut rate budget, is why the economizer control is on the unit. like I mentioned, we literally took thermostats and put them in the return air ducts prior to this, and had to go on the roof to adjust them. This is in a secured building that couldn’t allow the thermostats to be available to the occupants below.
Nicely done, Rick! I always keep a few of those plugs for situations just like this.
Thanks Steve👍
I do too. I have then for carrier, lennox, trane units
Good job Rick.
You DaMan very informative that you I deal with that Have a Blessed Weekend Hoss
Thanks Marvin! You too!
Great Video. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work Rick
I had one with a failing outside air sensor and of course no jumper plug. You can use thermostat wires and just shove them in the empty plug in the right spot. Just look up what the jumper plug looks like.
The terminal release tools are pretty nifty, especially those ones on the ring, real easy to carry around. Not the biggest fan of the molex plugs that are completely open and exposed. They’d be better off using weatherpack connectors like machinery and cars do.
Thanks for the info
No problem 👍
Thanks for the video brother!
You bet!
Would you know what a capital B suffix after the horsepower rating on a direct drive blower motor means? For example Hp-1/3B. I don't believe it stands for insulation class as that information is usually elsewhere on the motor data tag.
👉Here’s what I found.
Design Letter (DES, NEMA DESIGN, DESIGN). NEMA defines four motor designs (A, B, C, and D) in terms of torque and current characteristics. (see tables below). Most motors are design B because of their comparatively high efficiency and torque characteristics. Design A motors may be more efficient but are used infrequently because their relatively high starting current can cause nuisance tripping of motor protection circuitry. Design A motors may also require larger than standard size starters.
👉Here is the link. Look about half way down. www.priestelectric.com/read-electric-motor-nameplate/
@@HVACRSurvival Something funny about this motor. I can't tell what the B means and a motor shop doesn't know. It's a Lennox 81G5001 and you would think if you matched it up any replacement motor it would work. But it doesn't. (Emerson K55HXJJS-2903) Well, a Dayton doesn't work. Maybe Lennox is proprietary?
I did Lennox my first 19 years. It’s likely a proprietary motor. But with a bracket and a universal motor it usually works. That must be a new furnace. I haven’t heard that model number before
@@HVACRSurvival I figured you the go to guy for Lennox as you always say how much you like them. ; ) Yeah, must be proprietary but you think if you match data it would work? Not so much. Runs overamp. Not much but SF is 1. Can't tell if I can trust that. Gotta keep mom warm.
@joehead1294 you got to focus on the amp draw rating, make sure the replacement motor is capable of more amps than the original motor. Today’s horsepower ratings are total lies….Carrier does the same bullshit.
BAS does not appear to be controlling the economizer.... would have checked Jade economize module before checking signal at economizer. Possible that Jade was not configured correctly or a bad sensor leading to no free cool or mechanical cooling? Always should leave factory jumper with the economizer, I put jumper wires through econo plug.
Awesome job getting it going, but who needs AC in winter? Haha The keys that you used for removing the wires do you have link for those to purchase? Those would come in handy
Yeah, I listed them in the description and I pinned them in the comment section.
@@HVACRSurvival ok thanks
Lol it's always something with the economizer on carrier rtus. Are you a browns or bungles fan?
I’ve been to both games but I’m not really a sports guy. I like baseball more than football.
Good little vid ... Thx
Sir this your restart unit ?
I’m not sure if I understand the question, I wasn’t the person originally there that undid it, if that’s what you’re asking.
Probably need to hook up to that UPC and see if economizer is set to be controlled. And then hook it all back up and troubleshoot from there.
Like I said in the video the sensor was diagnosed bad by another tech but they didn’t complete the job and let it wait till summer.
On the schematic, the jumper plug is shown between the plug and the economizer. For some dumb reason, some are male, and others are female. Leve it up to Carrier to screw up a wonderful idea.
I see so many of those things just bypassed by Y-O lol
Hay Rick you guy dont leave notes inside the units it helps the next Guy we try to but it doesn't always happen thanks for the videos
I jumped that same control circuircuit for an economize on a Lennox 14 yrs ago. Problem was, I had to remove the jumper for heat season.
Could’ve solved that with a relay ran from O or B terminal on the thermostat. lol
When you checked in between r and c it only showed 24 volts and the control transformer is wired for 240 when it needed to be tapped for 208v I think you said you swapped them at the end of the video but whoever butchered that economizer needed to be fired lol
You’re correct. I like a little more than 24.0v if possible. I’ve seen more issues with lower voltage. 26v-27v is normal. Normally the circuit boards cut out at 29-30v.
Why don’t you ask why they’re not fixing the economizer control?
They never said not to fix it. The ball was dropped on the office side
@@HVACRSurvival dang them pencil pushing key punchers! 🤪
177 Thumbs uP
Lol
Kinda half ass, imo...
What was done prior to me is what I hope you’re referring to. Otherwise it was get it running or order the part and wait.
Good job Rick.