I'm retired after 62 years in broadcast engineering, (involuntarily) now, and no longer have access or room for my power tools and projects. (I'm down to one eye, and arthritis is a bitch). Alas, the 3D printing and these nifty mini tools came on the scene a little late for me so I am vicariously experiencing the joy of making things with my own hands through your site and a couple of others. (Not looking for sympathy, I had a great run, through the last days of being able to have fun in my job, and have great memories). Glad I stumbled upon his jewel of a site!
A couple of things to note: - Part of the reason why the belt is slipping is because you're using a timing belt on a smooth pulley. The notches reduce the contact and dramatically reduce the grip since its just sitting on the peaks of the belt teeth. Get a flat belt and it should slip less. - The overhang that pulley has inside the V groove doesn't look aggressive enough to require supports if your print settings are correct. Use Prusa Slicer to select organic / tree supports for the bottom area and then you can pull the supports off very easily without any blemishing to the print.
I've made a bunch of "temporary" 3d printed functional parts that ended up lasting way longer than necessary/expected. It's probably easier to just 3d print a replacement should it ever fail than to try to upgrade it to aluminum later
You are using a timing belt on smooth pulleys, that is what causes the slipping A good way to fix it and to also fix the issue of support material ruining the finish is to redesign the pulley to accomodate the teeth of this particular timing belt while reducing the groove and disabling supports in the slicer. You will get way less bridging gaps and since the teeth of the belt will be engaged in the teethed grooves of the pulley it won't slip and also won't need as big a groove to stay in place. Also feel free to give the groove a bit more space and fillet the top belt retainer, this will help with printing. Take into account printing in you designs, try to avoid needing support material where you can avoid it!
I wonder if removing the spinning mass of metal that was the gears, and replacing it with a plastic pulley, could have any detrimental effects on cutting power, not including things like belt-slip etc. Just considering the kinetic energy they could have stored. But once it's remade in metal later if ever, then that kinda resolves that issue anyways if so.
What would those step pulleys have cost you on Amazon? About six bucks apiece? The motor mount and belt adjuster sure 3-D printing was the way to go but those pulleys I would’ve bought those for sure. Or made them, out of aluminum, on your mini lathe.
Hey man, loved the video. I have a bit of experience experience with engineering and 3D printing and I thought in regard to your slipping, that might be causing a lot of friction and therefore heat into the 3D printed part. Even if your printed in ABS, if that plastic gets near 90°C it will start to deform and it could fail in a hazarhous way. I thought it might be worth considering sending the parts out to have them either printed in nylon or metal 3D printed. Of course, once you're set on a design (which looks fantastic by the way).
Nice! I see you've got the same printer as me. I can never pull off a print without using a full raft. It always delaminates or warps at the edges. Any tips?
Yes! I had the same problem, I usually just add a full brim and accept the extra material usage. Though I’ve had good luck using some “repositionable spray adhesive” on the bed. Your mileage may vary, I’ve heard glue stick works well to stick things down as well
I would try using a timing belt with timing belt pullies (properly sized for the load of course). This would reduce the risk of slipping and reduce the radial load on the motor mounts as well. Of course if you printed the pullies this would increase the torque on them, increasing the risk of them breaking. I don't know how expensive new pullies would be. Printed ones would be a cheap test. Just a thought.
What are you using for CAD? I need to move on from Tinkercad, looking for ideas that _aren't_ commercial black holes which will eat money for years. Great videos!
hi mae can you run through your programme on the calculator to convert from imperial to metric considering the revolutions on the machine dial. I would like to do something similar respectively my dials read in imperial increments and a full revolution equating to 0.125 and being in the uk I am more inclined to work in metric.
This makes me wonder if anyone has tried to make a Gingery lathe and/or mill using as many 3D printed parts as they can. How many parts can you make out of plastic before it fails or will it fail at all? For that matter, what if you mixed your own plastic with raw chemicals and poured it into molds to make parts even faster?
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 85 | คู่เอก "ยอดเหล็กเพชร vs ผึ้งหลวง"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qq_19bnnxEo/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm retired after 62 years in broadcast engineering, (involuntarily) now, and no longer have access or room for my power tools and projects. (I'm down to one eye, and arthritis is a bitch).
Alas, the 3D printing and these nifty mini tools came on the scene a little late for me so I am vicariously experiencing the joy of making things with my own hands through your site and a couple of others. (Not looking for sympathy, I had a great run, through the last days of being able to have fun in my job, and have great memories).
Glad I stumbled upon his jewel of a site!
Thank you for watching! I’m glad you enjoy the channel!
A couple of things to note:
- Part of the reason why the belt is slipping is because you're using a timing belt on a smooth pulley. The notches reduce the contact and dramatically reduce the grip since its just sitting on the peaks of the belt teeth. Get a flat belt and it should slip less.
- The overhang that pulley has inside the V groove doesn't look aggressive enough to require supports if your print settings are correct. Use Prusa Slicer to select organic / tree supports for the bottom area and then you can pull the supports off very easily without any blemishing to the print.
I've made a bunch of "temporary" 3d printed functional parts that ended up lasting way longer than necessary/expected. It's probably easier to just 3d print a replacement should it ever fail than to try to upgrade it to aluminum later
It really is surprising how good the parts turn out with how easy they are to make, I don’t know what I would do without it!
You are using a timing belt on smooth pulleys, that is what causes the slipping
A good way to fix it and to also fix the issue of support material ruining the finish is to redesign the pulley to accomodate the teeth of this particular timing belt while reducing the groove and disabling supports in the slicer.
You will get way less bridging gaps and since the teeth of the belt will be engaged in the teethed grooves of the pulley it won't slip and also won't need as big a groove to stay in place.
Also feel free to give the groove a bit more space and fillet the top belt retainer, this will help with printing.
Take into account printing in you designs, try to avoid needing support material where you can avoid it!
Hey! I did a similar modification to my mini mill but I used a rubber syncronous belt. It works great and never skips. Cheers from Argentina.
Love the soft jaws tip!
I fall asleep to videos like Abom all the time. That shik shik sound just puts me to sleep.
I think a nice upgrade to the pulleys now that you've got a working design is to remake them out of aluminum on the mini lathe.
Slapping down the Canadian Tire bucks!
The superior Canadian currency 💵
I wonder if removing the spinning mass of metal that was the gears, and replacing it with a plastic pulley, could have any detrimental effects on cutting power, not including things like belt-slip etc. Just considering the kinetic energy they could have stored. But once it's remade in metal later if ever, then that kinda resolves that issue anyways if so.
What would those step pulleys have cost you on Amazon? About six bucks apiece? The motor mount and belt adjuster sure 3-D printing was the way to go but those pulleys I would’ve bought those for sure. Or made them, out of aluminum, on your mini lathe.
Hey man, loved the video. I have a bit of experience experience with engineering and 3D printing and I thought in regard to your slipping, that might be causing a lot of friction and therefore heat into the 3D printed part. Even if your printed in ABS, if that plastic gets near 90°C it will start to deform and it could fail in a hazarhous way. I thought it might be worth considering sending the parts out to have them either printed in nylon or metal 3D printed. Of course, once you're set on a design (which looks fantastic by the way).
I'd print that pulley in 3 parts so that you don't need supports. Then just screw and glue them together.
Extremely good call! I should go re-model it
@@Someone_Should_Make_That perhaps you can make aluminum pulleys in the lathe in about the same time that you 3D print them. 😁
Nice! I see you've got the same printer as me. I can never pull off a print without using a full raft. It always delaminates or warps at the edges. Any tips?
Yes! I had the same problem, I usually just add a full brim and accept the extra material usage. Though I’ve had good luck using some “repositionable spray adhesive” on the bed. Your mileage may vary, I’ve heard glue stick works well to stick things down as well
I'll give it a go! Thanks!
The best upgrade I ever got for my Ender 3 was a borosilicate glass bed, combined with Aquanet hairspray. Perfect bed adhesion with PETG and PLA.
I would try using a timing belt with timing belt pullies (properly sized for the load of course). This would reduce the risk of slipping and reduce the radial load on the motor mounts as well. Of course if you printed the pullies this would increase the torque on them, increasing the risk of them breaking. I don't know how expensive new pullies would be. Printed ones would be a cheap test. Just a thought.
What are you using for CAD? I need to move on from Tinkercad, looking for ideas that _aren't_ commercial black holes which will eat money for years. Great videos!
Thank you! I usually use “Fusion” for my cad models, but in this video I tried out “freecad”
hi mae can you run through your programme on the calculator to convert from imperial to metric considering the revolutions on the machine dial. I would like to do something similar respectively my dials read in imperial increments and a full revolution equating to 0.125 and being in the uk I am more inclined to work in metric.
Unless I missed a comment, I don't recall hearing you mentikn what CADD software you use for your 3D printing projects.
Hello! I use Fusion 360 for all the designs in this video. I’ve found it to be quite good
Are you using a tooth pulley belt on a v-pulley ?
Looked to me like the geartoothwheel is slipping in the spindle shaft.
This makes me wonder if anyone has tried to make a Gingery lathe and/or mill using as many 3D printed parts as they can. How many parts can you make out of plastic before it fails or will it fail at all? For that matter, what if you mixed your own plastic with raw chemicals and poured it into molds to make parts even faster?
That would be really cool to try! I may have to give it a shot
You should have printed toothed pulleys, then you would have a positive drive but without the noise.
You may go further and 3D-print something like machinist jack. And then.. Rotary table?... 😅
Let's see a worm gear drive! Add complexity.... FOR NO REASON!
Rad🤙🏻
These small mills are almost worthless for drilling.
I'm not sure you're allowed to live in North America and complain about shipping, unless you live in Nome or something :)
Hahaha yes you are correct, it’s really less of a complaint and more of a fun excuse to build something myself instead of buying it
Use a timing belt and of course the pulleys.. Can be cannibalized from printers or scanners, or just buy them!