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if youre going from no mill to any working mill you are in a better place.. some people like to "wait" for the right time or the millions of other excuses people like to use to allow them to keep yapping and flapping their gums instead of smashing their thumbs making mistakes and learning from actually doing and finding out for yourself what works for you what's financially realistic for you and what you actually need for what youre honestly willing to do . if youre going to knowingly do something stupid do it as smart and safe as possible. mitigate risk and take chances lifes short and its real easy to hurry up to wait as your life zooms on by and then youre dead and you didnt do a damn think you wanted to do because you could always do it tomorrow...only the here and now thats all we got.

You didn’t say how much it was, and was it worth it.

the cheesy rock music with the sparks flying off the belt sander is a staple of TH-cam metalworking/fabricating 😂

Lot of good job \m/

I wonder if I could use it as a toolpost to mount the big boy beefy tools?

Whatever you do, milling in the lathe, tighten and lock every slide you’re not using for maximum possible rigidity every time.

Hi which milling bit is best for milling a crisp slot (not all the way through). 2mm, 3mm etc.

lawl, Power Fist.

Nice work, im a machinist and i just want to say that it isn't a CNC mill because you need to change the tool by yourself. It's an NC mill but it's still nice.

Don't bolt down your mini lathe. If you do it tightly you may pull it out of true, especially on your old wooden benchtop. Secure it yes, but don't stress the bed.

excellent looking forward to more videos ! are you on any other social media to follow you ? instagram etc ?

Instant sub

wow, imperial units at their best. They decided to make one revolution 1/16 of an inch, but mark the dial in thou (so basically in the metric fashion of dividing everything by thousands) 😆

How about an automatic tool change ? How about some more (3?) axis ? Don't thank me, just some pointers if you get bored.

use coolant

Awesome! I would love to do this to mine.

nice

Fantastic video dude! As a professional toy and video game designer I approve!

How about mounting a piece on the table with step blocks a half inch above the table surface and using a fly cutter with the head tilted forward/back? Say doing a .020 cut over 1" wide. Would that be an "overworking" of the machine?

Obviously you need to use the mill to make parts for a larger, more capable, more precise mill

Instead of buying a mini mill, I've been wanting to try doing a little milling with my Ridgid floor model drill press. Thoughts? I've already got a couple of cross slide vises and measuring tools to align everything.

19k subscribers and 1.5m views? I guess the algorithm decided I needed to see this, and I’m glad it did as I’m now a happy subscriber 😁

A few problems I have had using these: low quality acme screw nuts fail and can seize up/ damage acme screws, this seems to be common on the Z axis. As stated constantly loosing tram is an issue; these machines are limited to light cuts. TIR on the spindles is often in excess of .0005" on these machines; coupled with low quality tooling which is often purchased in conjunction with these mills several thou of runout is common with these set ups; this needs to be constantly doubled checked. These machines are flimsy and will develop very strong vibrations under moderate cuts (on the order of .100" depth of cut, full step over on a 2 flute 1/2" end mill); even when welding the column to the base or using a model with a ridged base moderate cuts are too much for these machines because of this problem. I think rebuilding an old bridgeport is a better option for a hobbyist if they have the room/ power available for it. It doesn't make a lot of sense to spend 1k on a cheap minimill then 3K on tooling for it (quality ER collets, vises, R8 collets/ adapters, calipers, micrometers, dial indicators and so on quickly starts to add up)

Watching your video, where did you get the dial indicator arm? I know the dial itself is from Princess Auto? Great video by the way, I have the same mill,

what about a cnc lathe?

What brand is the mill tho?

Any chance you'd sell this as a kit?

I've had a Grizzly mini mill for about 20 years. first thing to break was the Z axis stop. it's so cheaply made of cast zinc metal then the low gear broke. they're made of plastic and will break guaranteed then the high gear broke. I had to get the belt drive and it's a huge improvement. so much quieter and smoother I mostly machine aluminum but I've machined steel and stainless steel on it. you have to take really light cuts on steel otherwise the table will shift and you'll get a huge difference from one end to the other it's super slow having no power feed and your arms get tired after a while, also time consuming not being able to just hog away at material like a full size mill having said all that, I have made sooooo much stuff on it that I feel I got more than my money's worth out of it. I really used the hell out of it. sometimes it doesn't move when I turn it on but I take it apart and put it back together and somehow I always get it going again even though I don't know what I'm doing I break the cardinal rule. I use the drill chuck to hold end mills because it's so time consuming to change out the collets plus I only have two collet sizes my mill is in my basement so it gets really dirty when I'm doing a lot of work it has it's limitations but it's a great tool for DIY people

Try to made aluminium part for tge spindle for more rigidity

😊

Very cool project! I was thinking of doing the same thing... your video has inspired to do that.

3:56 that’s probably because the acme thread is metric.

Fun fact if you want to find out if something is gonna be hard and you can justify it grind it with an abrasive tool and if you get lots of bright white sparks that’s an indication of high carbon content so it’s probably a spring or tool steel and will be hard and possibly heat treated another way is stroke it with a file if the file skates across without biting in it’s gonna be pretty hard

If I only had half your brain...I don't quite understand all of the stuff you did but I know I sure as hell liked it...thanks for the video.

Dude, I love your style and sense of humor. Get out regular content and your channel will explode. You're already getting the views.

Can we get the plans for this?

So how much?

you can use a cylinder nut+locknut on allthread which will give you a smooth surface to clamp with the lathe

Couldn't you set a backlash parameter in the software to minimize cost?

No cutting oil?

They use fake LM2596 and the caps get really hot when under load with only a few mA's

Really appreciate you info - new sub! What do you think about your Vevor mini lathe? Do you recommend a certain cross feed table on Amazon?

Sweet. Thanks

You guys are still using thou! What happened to cubits and other lengths left over from the dark ages?

Just awesome... liked &subbed. You saved me a huge learning curve by sharing yours sir. Also, very enjoyable style and delivery (authentic).

Weld on nuts to hold bolts on each side for fine tuning and a secondary brace points.

So what mini mill & lathe manufacturer / model that is capable and ready to go? Thanks

I went from thinking, "I could afford that!" to realizing, "I can not afford the other tools I need to use this tool."

Hello! I have a same kind mini mill. Could you please advice how to choose the correct fly cutter for it?

I have a Sieg mill that had those .0625" per revolution feed screws. The mill was free. I replaced them with kits from an online small hobby machinist company. With the .1" per revolution parts in, it is much more difficult to turn the tiny handwheels. The nut they supply is too small.