I've been there, done that a bunch of times. Every engine I've ever had came to me in less-than mint-condition. I truly respect the way you convey the effort it takes to transform a vintage engine that has lived it's long life into a longer than people realize "restored" running engine. The example that you are showing is more typical than people could ever know. Thanks so much for getting people aware of the effort it takes to do what you do. Nice job!
I really want to build one of these engines from modern materials, cast a sealed crankcase from aluminum, use steel pipe for cylinders. Cylinders, because I'd want it to be an opposed piston, twin cylinder, cast approximately 6" pistons with combustion chambers in the center, like modern D.I. diesel engines, with large 1.880" exhaust , a pair with a single 2.220" intake twin cams, one intake, one exhaust, find automotive main bearings that will fit the mains, in the 2.5"-3" range, also use the same size for the rod journal, weld up and machine a crank from .500" steel plate and up to 3" round bar, machine to a tapered square, on the ends of the journals, machine receiving square in the 4"x 8" plate, with 1"x 1" bar stock bracing the .500" from the rod journal to main journals, brase in . 250" steel tube, from the rod journal, to the main with a passage in the block/ crank case, to accept a chain driven SBC oil pump, driven at 1/4 crank speed, the excess oil pressure is vented through piston squirters, to lube the pins and cylinders, that bolt to the crank case, that is about 70% 1"-1.5" thick aluminum, with non structural areas about .200" that can be machined, and add cooling fins, a crank case cover , from about 1"ribbing, and otherwise .125" thick. With pushrod tubes, from .5" conduit, a cylinder head cast from aluminum, the dual exhaust valves dumped into a single 2"- 2.25" pipe, , the intake manifold being a pipe 2.5"with two 90° split abd welding to go from 1-2, allowing the use of a 50mm+/- motorcycle type carburator, using two flywheels from a diesel engine, looking for a 50lbs plus each, with roughly 12" stroke and 6" bore, possibly using 3 flywheels total one use with a electric starter, use a modified 4cylinder distributor, driven from the intake cam, just guessing, but seems 1200 rpm will be singing for such a stroke, a possible good working RPM, peak at 1500-1800, and idle around 400-450rpm, running at 10:1 compression having a plug in the head, that can be removed to allow this 10:1, compression ratio, and replacing the plug, for a 20:1 and allow the use of a diesel type injection, allowing it to burn waste oil and diesel, kerosene, simply open the throttle fully with the fuel shut off, and a injection pump, and injector, possibly building a air blast injector, using glow plugs to help the ignition process, it would equal a fairly large displacement, hopefully it can produce 40hp @900-1200 rpm on either fuel, natural gas, gasoline, propane, or diesel, waste oils, used engine oil, used veg oil, kerosene, the TQ on oils should be near double that on gas, if it makes 35-40;HP on gas it should do 70 on oil, what I want it for it would spend a couple days a week at 500 RPM, powering bank of 24v alternators, producing an average of 28v and 150-250 amps for about 12 hours, maybe spinning a 220v generator for a few hours at 900 rpm, 8kw, +/-, for a few hours, maybe I could find a modern engine to do this work, but building it would be more fun!! ✌️😆
For what that is used for, just hone the cylinder, and clean the rings, remove them, and sand with 600 grit paper, with kerosene, to clean them up, and replace them, I have done it with old lawnmower engines, unless the rings are worn excessively, the opening them up to remove them, and scuffed seating surfaces, can make them work nearly as good as new, they may not last as long as they have, probably last a long while! Sound like the gaps may be inline, removing .130" from the top ring thickness, and add a .125" ring to the top with the gaps opposing one another, would create a total seal ring, zero gap.
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I've been there, done that a bunch of times. Every engine I've ever had came to me in less-than mint-condition. I truly respect the way you convey the effort it takes to transform a vintage engine that has lived it's long life into a longer than people realize "restored" running engine. The example that you are showing is more typical than people could ever know. Thanks so much for getting people aware of the effort it takes to do what you do. Nice job!
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Nice work.
I enjoy your channel another great video
Thanks for watching
Its really cool seeing engine like this that basically built America running again great job
Thanks
lovely old engine running again!
I really want to build one of these engines from modern materials, cast a sealed crankcase from aluminum, use steel pipe for cylinders. Cylinders, because I'd want it to be an opposed piston, twin cylinder, cast approximately 6" pistons with combustion chambers in the center, like modern
D.I. diesel engines, with large 1.880" exhaust , a pair with a single 2.220" intake twin cams, one intake, one exhaust, find automotive main bearings that will fit the mains, in the 2.5"-3" range, also use the same size for the rod journal, weld up and machine a crank from .500" steel plate and up to 3" round bar, machine to a tapered square, on the ends of the journals, machine receiving square in the 4"x 8" plate, with 1"x 1" bar stock bracing the .500" from the rod journal to main journals, brase in . 250" steel tube, from the rod journal, to the main with a passage in the block/ crank case, to accept a chain driven SBC oil pump, driven at 1/4 crank speed, the excess oil pressure is vented through piston squirters, to lube the pins and cylinders, that bolt to the crank case, that is about 70% 1"-1.5" thick aluminum, with non structural areas about .200" that can be machined, and add cooling fins, a crank case cover , from about 1"ribbing, and otherwise .125" thick. With pushrod tubes, from .5" conduit, a cylinder head cast from aluminum, the dual exhaust valves dumped into a single 2"- 2.25" pipe, , the intake manifold being a pipe 2.5"with two 90° split abd welding to go from 1-2, allowing the use of a 50mm+/- motorcycle type carburator, using two flywheels from a diesel engine, looking for a 50lbs plus each, with roughly 12" stroke and 6" bore, possibly using 3 flywheels total one use with a electric starter, use a modified 4cylinder distributor, driven from the intake cam, just guessing, but seems 1200 rpm will be singing for such a stroke, a possible good working RPM, peak at 1500-1800, and idle around 400-450rpm, running at 10:1 compression having a plug in the head, that can be removed to allow this 10:1, compression ratio, and replacing the plug, for a 20:1 and allow the use of a diesel type injection, allowing it to burn waste oil and diesel, kerosene, simply open the throttle fully with the fuel shut off, and a injection pump, and injector, possibly building a air blast injector, using glow plugs to help the ignition process, it would equal a fairly large displacement, hopefully it can produce 40hp @900-1200 rpm on either fuel, natural gas, gasoline, propane, or diesel, waste oils, used engine oil, used veg oil, kerosene, the TQ on oils should be near double that on gas, if it makes 35-40;HP on gas it should do 70 on oil, what I want it for it would spend a couple days a week at 500 RPM, powering bank of 24v alternators, producing an average of 28v and 150-250 amps for about 12 hours, maybe spinning a 220v generator for a few hours at 900 rpm, 8kw, +/-, for a few hours, maybe I could find a modern engine to do this work, but building it would be more fun!! ✌️😆
The part I wanted to see, was you assembling and timing the mag. I have a 1 1/2 Fairbanks Z, and that is all I need to do to get it running.
For what that is used for, just hone the cylinder, and clean the rings, remove them, and sand with 600 grit paper, with kerosene, to clean them up, and replace them, I have done it with old lawnmower engines, unless the rings are worn excessively, the opening them up to remove them, and scuffed seating surfaces, can make them work nearly as good as new, they may not last as long as they have, probably last a long while! Sound like the gaps may be inline, removing .130" from the top ring thickness, and add a .125" ring to the top with the gaps opposing one another, would create a total seal ring, zero gap.
where to get this engine and how much it costs
The engine in the video is not for sale
I guess you realize that engine was a special electric?
Yes I know it was a special electric