The Ultimate Mobile Table Saw Station with Storage & Outfeed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2021
- #woodworking #tablesaw #DIY
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In this week’s video, I build a mobile table saw station for my Dewalt 8-1/4 inch compact table saw. This mobile station includes a huge amount of storage and a folding out-feed table. This solution makes a small wood shop table saw much more functional, and gives you multiple ways to set-up in a small space. On top of all the great features, the 5 inch locking wheels make it easy to move and set up.
GET THE PLANS FOR THIS TABLE SAW STATION:
Plans in Imperial Units (Inches): sorensenstore.com/shop/produc...
Plans in Metric Units: sorensenstore.com/shop/produc...
DISCLAIMER: My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Do not attempt to do anything that is shown in my videos. Woodworking and Metal Working are very dangerous activities and should only be performed by trained professionals.
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Hello Friends! You can buy the plans for this project today on my web store. They are available in both imperial and metric units. Imperial: bit.ly/35p9RYU Metric: bit.ly/3sd9VVm
Hey great channel Eric, also wonder if we're related?!!
Thanks AJ! Yes, there are many Sorensens dispersed all over North America. If you trace us all back to Denmark, we're related in some way.
Hey Eric,
I purchased your plans but there was an error when it was taking me back to the page to download them. I have sent you an email regarding this. I was hoping to start this project this coming weekend. Table looks great
Hi Paige! I just checked and for some reason your email ended up in my spam folder. I will send the plans via email shortly.
@@EricSorensenCanada thanks for the quick reply and plans!
I built this mobile cart from the plans you posted with one modification. Instead of one single unit with spaces for drawers, I divided into three individual sections and stacked them into one unit. I did this because my Riyobi Table Saw does not have dust collection capablility, and that was a Hugh motivator for me wanting to build this. Instead of an upper drawer, I made that section into a dust collection compartment where the dust from the saw would fall through the cut out top section of the cabinet and be pulled out by the vacuum hose that I can attach to the back of the cabinet.
Nice work, I like the added drawer function. Mobility is also key in the workshop, I find it very helpful when doing builds on my channel.
Great project! Thanks, Mr. S.!!!
Perfect just what I need for my small shop 👍
Bought your plans as I just purchased the 7485 saw. My shop is basically a large walk-in closet and this table will fit beautifully with enough room to work and I can roll it out to keep working.
It's worked out great for me. The whole footprint is 2 square feet, so it tucks away nice and easy. Enjoy🙂.👍
Thanks for sharing your skills, I have the same issues as you, mainly working on the drive as a workshop. So this could be a solution 👍😁
lot of things to learn. great stuff.
Greetings from Denmark, and thank you, Sørensen! 👍
This great table saw station with extra workspace and storage is just perfect for me, and some things from this I can use elsewhere. Like the way to leave the bottom of the drawers loose; I'll copy that to the drawers I'm making for my kitchen cabinets.
Makes it so much easier to repaint or clean the bottoms if, fx. a container leaks, and you only have to remove the bottom and not the whole drawer! (Rigtig god idé. Tusinde tak! 👍 )
Building my new workshop in a very small space, (15 x 12 ft and 5,5 ft height) I really need as much extendable workspace as well as closed storage as possible.
The biggest problem is not the lack of space, but the Danish weather, as I can only afford to heat the poorly insulated shed when working there and not all 8-9 months a year, not because it's cold, but the high humidity (wood expanding, tools rusting, etc.)
But in reality, very fine things were built for centuries before heated workspaces and before power tools, and I'll have to find better "excuses" than these not to get workshop and things build!
Pia, Tusinde tak! Glad to inspire. I think many of the old workshops were heated by wood stove in the winter much like they do here in British Columbia. My garage /workshop is not heated. I bring my glue joints into the house in the winter time, so the glue will set properly.
Another great build Eric, like you I only have a small shed for my workshop. Making the table saw mobile is a great idea. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Jim! Cheers🙂
Good idea my friend. I liked. Congratulations and Thanks 😊
Good work and design...thanks...
I love the table saw unit especialy when you had a ride on it great idea nice job.
Thanks Johnny! Gotta test this stuff🙂
Well done Eric, perfect solution. Congratulations on your new saw. Wish you many Happy hours of woodwork with it
Thanks John! Cheers🙂.🍺
I bought the metric plan for the station. Excellent!
Thanks Gideon!
Wonderful 👏
Once again. Such a nice build. I really like that you are already using the station before its completely finished :-)
Thanks Jan! I used it because I had no choice - LOL
@@EricSorensenCanada Bought the same saw (coming in a few days) and bought the plans. Looking forward to the build.
This is an awesome design!!! I have the same saw and I am 6'3" so same issues with bending over!!
Got the plans and now got the table saw. The next project is building the cart. It should fit nicely in my work area. Update: @Eric Sorensen, I am building it now, the parts for the casters and the hinges due in tomorrow. Will have to modify the height a little since I am a little shorter than you and getting 4" casters. Cheers.
Update: Got it built, and it is a real nice cart. Had to make it a bit wider for my DWE7485, but that was to be expected. I really like it. Thank you for the video and the plans.
Yes, the plans are generalized for the average size on a compact table saw. Mine was 1-1/2" wider too because I wanted to keep the plastic feet on. If you remove the feet, it will fit into the station as per the specs. I'm glad it worked out. I love using my station, the outfeed and the extra drawer space makes all the difference.
Hi Eric, this is so funny to me because I just took care of the same problem with my tablesaw aswell. I went about it quite differently though by hanging my saw sideways under an end of my workbench. I too have a small work space and got tired of carting it all over the shop and I already have a solution for an out feed table. Very nice build, that will come in handy for other tools that ann't mobile. Cheers👍👍
Thanks Doug! Adding the table saw to your workbench is definitely another way to go. Similar to the Paulk work bench solution. I like to keep the mess off my work bench as much as possible, so using the table saw separately is nice feature to have in the shop. Cheers🙂
Planning on building one... but I like your design easy better, I was building one with out feed
You sold me on this table saw 👀
cool
Nice tablesaw cart, and great features on it. The outfeed table, the side height not interfering with the fence, plenty of drawer storage, nice big wheels to resist scooting when locked, putting the table height same as the workbench. And you didn't mention this, but besides keeping it centered, the HDPE glides also work as stops engaging the wider back piece exposed by the inset sides, inhibiting the impulse to pull the drawer out too far in one sweeping motion and dump everything on the floor (ask me how I know about that maneuver)!
I really like the drawer bottom cleat idea. I think that will become my new go-to method. I need to make some sliding shelf/drawers for canned goods, and this sounds perfect for that application.
One tip I always do now for shop-made drawer runners, if you can use it, is to iron on a couple strips of oak edging on the bottom raw edges of the side pieces, plus rub on a bit of wax. Pulls very smoothly, even if the drawer's full and heavy. Iron-on melamine edging from the big box store also works great, and given its durability, can be added to either the bottom raw edge or the runners. Might have just been the cheap soft wood I used on my own shop drawers, but mine 'dug in', had too much friction to suit me, so I went back and added edging (on my heavy 'problem children' anyway), worked like a charm.
Very nicely done Eric! I am not sure as to why you couldn't use draw slides. All you would have to do is add an additional piece of wood to either the outside of the draw or inside of the cabinet wall which would allow for attaching the slides. Or, maybe I missed something? Also, I would have used way more screws to put that cabinet together! 😂😂👍👍😉😉
Thanks Steve! You could use drawer slides to create a similar set-up for sure!
Awesome tutorial Eric. I’m wondering if you put a feed table on the side of the station for ripping plywood, would add another use?
Thanks.
I have seen a similar design with a folding leaf /top on either side. You could definitely add one or two more. I decided to go a bit more minimal and make it the same height as my workbench, so I could use that for a supplementary outfeed.
Really great project
Planning to build new stand alone table saw station (btw, for the very same DeWalt 8-1/4 TS) - so looking for some existing solutions.
This one IS the best so far and I've checked few dozens already. Though it still does not fit my needs fully - I want to embed my compact Rigid shop vac instead of drawers. So, need to calculate all the dimensions myself.
But, anyway - thank you and respect!
Thanks Mykola! Cheers🙂
How smoth was the cut with the kit blade?
Eric, did you consider pocket holes to build the drawer boxes rather than the dadoed mechanism. I am getting ready to build a table saw cart and will definitely consider the folding shelf brackets. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this.
Pocket holes are perfectly fine for drawer boxes. I used dados because I wanted this style of box but I normally just use rabbet (rebate) joints for drawer boxes because I like the look and they're a nice strong glue joint.
Excellent! Two questions, are you going to put slots in the out feed for sleds? And are you concerned about the brackets sagging over time?
I decided not to put the miter slot on the outfeed table because I don't use sleds all that often. The ones I do use have a short miter guide on the back side, so they won't get caught on the out feed table. Use heavy duty folding shelf brackets (rated at 150 LBS or more )and you won't have any issues with sagging.
Like your plans. I have a Dewalt DWE7480 table saw, and always have issues since I have no outfeed extension. I did build a mobile cart, and maybe I could add the outfeed extension to it, but it might be easier to just start from scratch with your plans. I see on your video that you use your workbench as an extension for the left side of the table saw, but I'll probably add an extension on the left side of the cart. Have you considered adding that to your plans?
Thanks Greg! I thought about another leaf on one side but I really didn't need it. It's easy enough to buy another set of folding shelf brackets add another left on one side. The plans are just a starting point. I fully expect folks to modify and change things to suit their own work set-up.
I’ll download your plans and purchase an additional set of brackets. The additional leaf will help when I build a cross cut sled.
Thank you Eric, for another nice video! I especially enjoyed your tips about the drawer bottom.
Question about wood glue: you seem to be using regular wood glue, which has recommended application temperature of about 15°C, and your garage seems to be colder than that. Like you, I also live in Canada and have an un-heated garage/shop, and my glue-ups have failed in the past when I didn't comply with the minimum required temperature.
Can you please share insight/experience on this?
Thanks again.
Thanks Mostafa! What you don't see on camera is that I bring my glue-ups into the main house so the glue will set properly (at around 22°C). It's awkward and my wife doesn't love it but it's the only way Glue-ups work in the winter time. On a side note: I usually don't do these big projects until the spring / summer.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks! As I said, I share the same problem, and my partner has limited tolerance for projects brought into the house too!
I use a heat gun to warm the surfaces, and use the LePgae Express wood glue, which has a minimum application temp 0f 3°C. I was excited to see you use regular glue.
Can you please discuss the idea of cutting dado slots into the outfeed table in order to be able to move a crosscut sled... Or is the outfeed sled slightly lower than the height of the table saw height in order to allow for clearance of the runners attached to the bottom of the crosscut sled?... Thanks!
It depends on the design of your cross-cut sled. I don't really use cross-cut sleds ( I prefer cross-cutting on the miter saw) , so it's kind of a non issue for me. You can cut a dado / track into the out-feed table if you are using a sled, and yes, you may have to adjust the height to accommodate it. It just means trimming down the risers on the out-feed top if you need to.
Nice video. Where did you buy the hinges for the table?
I bought them on Amazon. Just do a search for "folding shelf brackets". I bought the 18" variety.
Thanks, Eric. I need to scale down the behemoth table saw "station" I presently have, so this looks like a good solution. How is the dust collection with the new saw?
The dust collection is pretty good, except I need to change the filter on my vac so it should improve even more. The size of the whole table saw unit is really pretty compact. Much better than my job site table saw stand.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks for the reply, Eric. Will you be able to use the dust collection if the table extension is lowered? It looks like it will block the hose from the vac. Also, do you think those braces you glued in to place (at 15:26) will stand the test of time holding the lower part of the brackets in place?
You can prop it up half way if you need to, although I recommend using it with the outfeed table always extended . The bracket supports are solid. It's the beauty of plywood and modern wood glue. That said, the joinery is even more solid if you follow the plans.
Perfect idea since the included stand is a pain. Off-topic, you have a shrowd around your miter saw, do you use it just for 90 degree or close to cuts? I want to build one but one big enough to allow 45's would take up too much space, and that's already in short supply in my one car' shop'.
I can only use it for 90° cuts, For angled cuts, I have to move the saw out from the box. miter saws are handy but they take up a huge amount of space.
@@EricSorensenCanada Gotcha thanks, that's a possible solution for me.
What brand of poxket hole clamp is that? Like that far better than the one I have
I use the Kreg K4 Jig Pocket Hole System with the dust collection port (The Kreg k5 is even better). I also have the Kreg Right Angle Clamp for pocket holes. This combo makes cabinet making so much easier.
Thanks. Looks like the kind of thing I need to consider this year. Just one question... what’s the risk of it tipping over if you’re ripping something long, like a full sheet of plywood? As the weight hits the out feed table it could go over.
Thanks! Well, first off, you should never rip a full sheet of plywood on a table saw ( unless it's an industrial sized cabinet makers saw). Always break down your sheet goods with a circular saw, then switch to the table saw when you have it in smaller parts, like 2x4 or less. I did a video on this earlier last year: th-cam.com/video/-tPPBD2NG-M/w-d-xo.html
@@EricSorensenCanada thanks Eric. I only used that as an example. Supposed you’re resawing something long. Just thinking of the physics of the length of the stock possibly shifting the centre of gravity.
Again, trying to wrangle big heavy boards through a table saw is probably not the best idea. If the board you're sawing, outweighs the table saw, then don't saw it on the table saw. If for some reason it is your only choice, I would pull my workbench out and use that for additional out-feed support. My old table saw was lower than my workbench so I could never do that previously.
Like all your videos great job, I will be copying this with one exception I will make wooden handles not plastic yuk 😂 keep em coming, by the way I’m 81 years old so hurry and make more stuff all the best 🥸
Thanks David! The handles I use are aluminium - I buy them in 10 packs🙂. Cheers!
@@EricSorensenCanada you didn't say!! sorry, 🤭
How about the push sticks you use, is there a video on yours?
You Bet: th-cam.com/video/lSDddd3i5VU/w-d-xo.html
I just came across your page and this video is excellent. Do you happen to have a video on the miter saw dust collection hood I noticed in the video? I did a quick search in your video list but I did not see anything.
Thanks Neil! Unfortunately I don't have a video on the dust trap for the miter saw. It's just a box attached to the counter top behind the saw. Nothing fancy🙂
Please tell us where you bought your casters, and their size.
They look very sturdy.
I bought mine on Amazon. Just do a search for "DICASAL 3 Inch Heavy Duty Plate Casters Wheels" - Make sure they have wheel locks on all four.
@@EricSorensenCanada
Thank you!
Very nice. Have you had any issues with the blade being 8 1/4 vs 10” ?
No issues at all. It's the reason why I bought it. I prefer the smaller blade with the matching riving knife.
Eric, one more question...what is the distance from the floor of your shop to the top of your table saw? Thanks!
For mine, it's 41-3/4" - with the wheels on. That's roughly a little more than waist height for me. The plans call for calculating the total height based on what's right for you (page 8). So you may need to trim the sides, back, drawer boxes and drawer faces accordingly.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks for the reply! Wow, at that height there will be no "hunching" for me as well, and I am 6 feet tall.
We're the same height then. It really will depend on what casters you put on it. I have 3 inch wheels but the total size for the caster is 5 inches. Personally, I find the table height comfortable. My work bench is about the same height.
Very nice. A couple of questions. why did you not dado a couple of miter gauge slots into the outfeed table and where can I find those folding brackets? I know I can research them but it might be easier to just ask you. Brand name etc?
Thanks Ray! I didn't really need miter slots on the outfeed, since my crosscut fence clears the riving knife already. The brackets can be found on Amazon: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Z3BW8XX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks. I think I understand. Is the outfeed table below the saw table surface?
No, the outfeed table is level with the table saw deck. If you're using a cross cut sled, you can add tracks, but I use my miter saw for most cross-cut operations, so I just didn't need it.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks Eric, I went back and rewatched the video and I see now how you made it. I'm going to be making one just like yours but I will incorporate the miter grooves as I use a sled. I don't have that nice sliding miter saw yet. That's coming though.
That's a great cart Eric and the saw looks fantastic too. I'm still deciding whether to get a table saw & how to fit it comfortably in my small workshop and had been looking at the Bosch GTS10J2, but the DeWalt sure looks good! The thing is, I've already got a mobile drawer unit and am wondering if the Dewalt would fit on it, so could you tell me the dimensions needed for the saw to sit on. Many thanks, Bill.
2X2 feet is the footprint.
@@EricSorensenCanada ok, thanks Eric 👍
I just bought these plans, used PayPal and got receipt but no plans. How do I get them?
Hi Joseph, You probably missed the 'Return to Merchant' Button on the confirmation page. Try going back and refreshing. If you're still having issues, contact me through the contact form on my website and we will get the plans to you via email.
@@EricSorensenCanada ok