I've watched at least a half-dozen videos on cornhole boards, and this is by far the best I've seen. Job well done! I'll be following this tutorial when I build mine!
wow" I think your boards are better than the pro boards , you are an amazeing carpenter sir" I really love the detail you choose to put into your boards tottaly awesome .
Great tip on how to seal the boards before painting. I want to build a set with a built-in retractable string on one side to set the proper distance apart.
Awesome. That way you dont need to bring a big tape measure along. The problem with tape measures is that they usually only go out to 25 feet, so you have to set an object in the grass then add a few more feet. The string would make that so much quicker and easier. Thanks
a trick i use is using painter's tape on both sides of your cut when cutting the plywood and will prevent blowout in the vineer! love the quality of your work!
I just made some half-assed boards from bare studs and some 1/2" plywood since I don't have a table saw or anything fancy. These are very clean looking! Need to get a table saw and router badly!
Really enjoyed this video thank you. I have made boards and experienced bleeding. I like the idea of sealing but do not have a spray set up. Could I use spray shellac?
Thanks for the kind words! You can use spray shellac, just try to avoid the stuff that has wax added into it. "sanding sealer" shellac is what you want. You can also just brush on the shellac, would work just fine.
Your boards came out great! I like the beer/drink holder idea. It's a great idea & look. The only thing is that the bags will eventually slide off the board & contaminate the drinks? Bags do get dirty...Very nice build though. Good job 👍.
Thanks so much for the kind words! I tend to only leave my beer in the holder when it's my turn to throw, otherwise it's in my hands. So that's my strategy for keeping the bag contaminants out of the beer.
So you apply all your coats of Spar Urethane & don't sand till before the last coat applied? No sanding in-between coats? I'm at that stage right now and just trying to get advice.
I apply all of the coats without sanding between coats, and only sand before the final coat. However, it's important to put on each coat before the previous coat cures. Once the urethane cures, then you need to sand it or steel wool to rough it up a bit so the next coat will stick. If each coat is only a couple hours apart, then it will stick good to the previous not-yet-cured coat. Sorry such a wordy explanation, hope it is understandable.
@jkmwoodworking thanks...one final question, I hope, but probably not 😉...I bought Behr water-based Spar urethane. The can said I cannot use over my water-based acrylic paint? Is the Varathane spar urethane your using different? What can I use over my acrylic paint that won't yellow. I want a really smooth surface. Thank you!
@@dreamlookautodetailingauto3353 Honestly, I really don't know. I would have thought that any water based urethane would work, and with minimal yellowing. I would trust the directions on the can over my experience. I'm really not an expert on spar urethane options.
I ended up putting drink holders on mine as well. But, Instead of a 2x4, I used a 1x4 board and a 2 3/4" hole saw. No problem fitting in the beer cans & bottles. Works great! Question though... I was going to buy the water-based spar urethane to protect my gloss paint. But the paint supply guys told me that it was unnecessary if using water-based exterior gloss paint. Because it already had the UV protection, etc mixed in it. What do you think?
Glad to hear the drink holders worked out! I would trust the paint supply guys more than me, I'm sure they know more about the paint. Although, just my opinion is that if it's easy enough, then I don't think it will hurt to add a few coats of the urethane. The sun is pretty brutal, and the more protection the better.
Great question, something that I cut out of the video because i thought it was getting too long. I took advantage of the outside of the stencil being square, an easier measurement reference. Measured from the edges of the cornhole board, and marked lightly with pencil on the wood where the corners of the outside square of the stencil would go. Then just carefully laid down the stencil. If you look carefully with the video starting at timestamp 15:26, you can see the pencil marks on the board at the corners of the stencil as its being pulled off.
Probably been asked this so many times,but I did not see it. Do you make boreds that u sell?? I would love a set, with out paint to put my own design on. Wonderfully will made video thank you
That's all we want. A dirty bean bag in our back edge cup holder. I think a launch area standing cup holder with scoreboard is a far more appealing option.
I've watched at least a half-dozen videos on cornhole boards, and this is by far the best I've seen. Job well done! I'll be following this tutorial when I build mine!
Thanks so much!
wow" I think your boards are better than the pro boards , you are an amazeing carpenter sir" I really love the detail you choose to put into your boards tottaly awesome .
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Well done! Thanks for a really nice “how too”. Your boards look great, really professionally done.
Thank you very much!
Love the video. Lots of tricks of the trade you’re sharing.
Thank you so much!
Great tip on how to seal the boards before painting. I want to build a set with a built-in retractable string on one side to set the proper distance apart.
Great idea on the string, that would definitely be handy!
Awesome. That way you dont need to bring a big tape measure along. The problem with tape measures is that they usually only go out to 25 feet, so you have to set an object in the grass then add a few more feet. The string would make that so much quicker and easier. Thanks
These look perfect, and all the features are creative and well designed. Thanks!
Thanks so much!
a trick i use is using painter's tape on both sides of your cut when cutting the plywood and will prevent blowout in the vineer! love the quality of your work!
Great idea! Thank you!
I used this tip and the holes came out really clean. I wonder if this works with drilling through tile
Nice work! Great explanation, Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Excellent tutorial..!! You do very nice work, friend...
Thanks so much!
Nice build
Thanks!
I just made some half-assed boards from bare studs and some 1/2" plywood since I don't have a table saw or anything fancy. These are very clean looking! Need to get a table saw and router badly!
I dont have a sprayer could i brush on the poly
You can just brush on the poly, would work great!
Really enjoyed this video thank you. I have made boards and experienced bleeding. I like the idea of sealing but do not have a spray set up. Could I use spray shellac?
Thanks for the kind words! You can use spray shellac, just try to avoid the stuff that has wax added into it. "sanding sealer" shellac is what you want. You can also just brush on the shellac, would work just fine.
Fantastic thanks
Hi - I was wondering what size router bit you used around the hole please
I used a 3/16" roundover bit. Just personal preference I think that 1/8" or 1/4" probably would be fine also.
Your boards came out great! I like the beer/drink holder idea. It's a great idea & look. The only thing is that the bags will eventually slide off the board & contaminate the drinks? Bags do get dirty...Very nice build though. Good job 👍.
Thanks so much for the kind words! I tend to only leave my beer in the holder when it's my turn to throw, otherwise it's in my hands. So that's my strategy for keeping the bag contaminants out of the beer.
@@jkmwoodworking good thinking! I'm going to add that to my build. 😉
Beautiful work! Do you have design plans for these boards?
Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately, I don't have plans for the boards.
Did you thin the polyurethane before spraying?
No thinning, I sprayed it as-is right out of the can.
So you apply all your coats of Spar Urethane & don't sand till before the last coat applied? No sanding in-between coats? I'm at that stage right now and just trying to get advice.
I apply all of the coats without sanding between coats, and only sand before the final coat. However, it's important to put on each coat before the previous coat cures. Once the urethane cures, then you need to sand it or steel wool to rough it up a bit so the next coat will stick. If each coat is only a couple hours apart, then it will stick good to the previous not-yet-cured coat. Sorry such a wordy explanation, hope it is understandable.
@@jkmwoodworking You are totally good.Thank you for the great explanation.I will take that advice and do that as well. I appreciate you!
@jkmwoodworking thanks...one final question, I hope, but probably not 😉...I bought Behr water-based Spar urethane. The can said I cannot use over my water-based acrylic paint? Is the Varathane spar urethane your using different? What can I use over my acrylic paint that won't yellow. I want a really smooth surface. Thank you!
@@dreamlookautodetailingauto3353 Honestly, I really don't know. I would have thought that any water based urethane would work, and with minimal yellowing. I would trust the directions on the can over my experience. I'm really not an expert on spar urethane options.
I ended up putting drink holders on mine as well. But,
Instead of a 2x4, I used a 1x4 board and a 2 3/4" hole saw. No problem fitting in the beer cans & bottles. Works great! Question though... I was going to buy the water-based spar urethane to protect my gloss paint. But the paint supply guys told me that it was unnecessary if using water-based exterior gloss paint. Because it already had the UV protection, etc mixed in it. What do you think?
Glad to hear the drink holders worked out! I would trust the paint supply guys more than me, I'm sure they know more about the paint. Although, just my opinion is that if it's easy enough, then I don't think it will hurt to add a few coats of the urethane. The sun is pretty brutal, and the more protection the better.
@jkmwoodworking my same thoughts as well. Extra protection wouldn't hurt... Do you have any experience with laminated wraps?
How did you line up the circle stencil so it’s even all the way around?
Great question, something that I cut out of the video because i thought it was getting too long. I took advantage of the outside of the stencil being square, an easier measurement reference. Measured from the edges of the cornhole board, and marked lightly with pencil on the wood where the corners of the outside square of the stencil would go. Then just carefully laid down the stencil. If you look carefully with the video starting at timestamp 15:26, you can see the pencil marks on the board at the corners of the stencil as its being pulled off.
Super nice build. How thick is the top ??
Thanks! The top is 1/2" plywood, which seems to play nice, but most importantly is lightweight since I wanted to move these around and be portable.
Probably been asked this so many times,but I did not see it. Do you make boreds that u sell?? I would love a set, with out paint to put my own design on. Wonderfully will made video thank you
I'm just a hobbyist, not really setup to sell stuff. Thanks for the kind words!
Where can I get that circle stencil?
There is a link in the description to find it online.
Did you use 3/4 or 1/2 inch for the top?
I used 1/2" birch plywood for the top. It seems to work well, and keeps the boards a little lighter and easier to carry around.
Can I buy a set of boards from you they look professional
Thanks, that’s very flattering! I’m just a woodworking hobbyist, not really setup to sell what I make at this time.
Great job! Looks more professional than those sell in store. If I want to buy them can you made me a set,?
Thank you! Woodworking is really just a hobby for me, and I'm not geared up to make these for sale, I'm sorry.
That's all we want. A dirty bean bag in our back edge cup holder. I think a launch area standing cup holder with scoreboard is a far more appealing option.
Didn't know what one was till the end
Great feedback Tony! Thanks!