I changed my brand of silicone after the one I showed in the video (CT1) didn't last 8 months.. it ended up being brittle. I'm hoping the window-specific sealant I bought lasts longer - Everflex Contract 225 - Industrial & glazing silicone (amzn.to/4iwi15I). I'll report back in the future with how it went.
Really good video. I wished I’d seen it before I did mine because I couldn’t figure out why the side panel on one side was loose on the bottom, now I know.
Thanks for posting, just about to deal with similar issue, though hoping it's more due to a blockage on gutter. Next time you use silicone, if you rub a bit of washing up liquid on your finger, you can get a smoother finish and the silicone doesn't stick to your finger and get everywhere.
I hope it fixed the leak since it will be very difficult to get the trims off again with that CT1 adhesive. I put a basin in my bathroom and stuck it to the wall with CT1 and practically had to smash the basin to bits to take it off. It’s incredible strong stuff but if you need to remove something and take it off again then it becomes a problem.😊
Thankfully it did.. I've not had a leak in either of the windows I fixed using it, but thanks for the heads up. It underscores that anyone else doing this should be certain it'll fix their issue & potentially use other methods to double check before they apply something like CT1.
Use a low modulus silicone like this one; amzn.to/3LqQRxT. Yes, I'd take the trims off to check there's not a load of dirt/moss trapped in the drainage channels; that can cause problems & is an easier issue to fix!
Last night I was looking at the seal on mine & the silicone adhesive hasn’t weathered well 8 months later. I’ll be trying a different brand/type & will report back.
I just had the same issue and found the cause of a small leak in the bottom corner area. GGLM06 78x118cm on a 45 degree pitch. The small exposed screw in the flashing was loose and rusty. This enabled the rain to get in through it over the years rotting the corner of the wooden frame wtf. So Velux misled me when i bought it over 10 years ago :(. I'll do your trick and use silicone after cleaning it all. Nightmare. Thanks
You're welcome; fyi I changed my brand of silicone after the one I showed in the video (CT1) didn't last 8 months.. it ended up being brittle. I'm hoping some window-specific sealant I bought will last longer!
This is only a half-hearted repair. It's not the proper way to fix it, even though it may work and is fine as an emergency repair. You need to take the entire window out and reseal it with the original Velux butyl sealant replacement kit (or any other butyl seals, BUT they need the right circumference for the right areas of the window). It's important to take the whole window out, not just to do the seal repair the proper way, but also to check the state of the screws holding the frame in, as well as the brackets that push the glass onto the lower frame, which the top frame goes into. Some of my screws were rusted out and lifting off the frame, I also had two of the three (in my case it was three, may be different depending on model) brackets rusted off and bending off the lower frame. Without providing the required pressure between lower frame and top frame, your window will never be 100% sealed because the seals above the glass with the top frame and the seals below the glass with the lower frame aren't being pushed tight. The reason for water leaks is water going below the metal casing, which you are filling in this video, through the rotten outer butyl seals, damaging out the wooden pieces that keep the glass in place within the frame, then below the glass, out of the inner sealant, into the corners of the window. If you need guidance understanding what I'm saying, refer to this video: th-cam.com/video/l7S2xac9X80/w-d-xo.html (it's French though)
Ah yes, I'd watched that video when I was wondering how to attempt to fix mine.. it looks rather involved! It'd be interesting to know how much all this would cost if I got someone in to do it.. I doubt it'd be cheap :(
@ it’s actually surprisingly cheap. I paid 30 euros for one of these genuine VELUX repair sets online. Depending on the shop, you may pay up to 70-90 euros, so compare prices carefully! The set includes seals of two kinds, all the screws you need (torx instead of old ones) and watertight butyl pads that you can use to waterproof your screw holes. I think both butyl seals are like 5 metres in length, not sure. Depending on your window size, you will go through one package quicker or slower. I ended up paying 30 bucks for one set, and with one day of hard work, my window is watertight again. New window would cost around 3000 euros. Just be sure to have a second or even third person with you. Taking the window out and especially putting it back in can be seriously hard work if it’s a larger window, like mine (114x140cm). Of course, the question whether the window is worth repairing depends on the state of your glass and the state of the mounting frame. My window is now 33 years old, but those are still alright. Cover your floor because those windows are extremely dirty and you will need to remove old seals and clean the surfaces before resealing.
I changed my brand of silicone after the one I showed in the video (CT1) didn't last 8 months.. it ended up being brittle. I'm hoping the window-specific sealant I bought lasts longer - Everflex Contract 225 - Industrial & glazing silicone (amzn.to/4iwi15I). I'll report back in the future with how it went.
Really good video. I wished I’d seen it before I did mine because I couldn’t figure out why the side panel on one side was loose on the bottom, now I know.
I’ve gone back up this evening and sorted it, so thanks again
@patmcg4755 Brilliant! 😊
Thanks for posting, just about to deal with similar issue, though hoping it's more due to a blockage on gutter. Next time you use silicone, if you rub a bit of washing up liquid on your finger, you can get a smoother finish and the silicone doesn't stick to your finger and get everywhere.
Great tip! Let me know how you get on with yours 🙂
Or spit does the same ;-)
@@jonathanbliss1945😂
I hope it fixed the leak since it will be very difficult to get the trims off again with that CT1 adhesive. I put a basin in my bathroom and stuck it to the wall with CT1 and practically had to smash the basin to bits to take it off. It’s incredible strong stuff but if you need to remove something and take it off again then it becomes a problem.😊
Thankfully it did.. I've not had a leak in either of the windows I fixed using it, but thanks for the heads up. It underscores that anyone else doing this should be certain it'll fix their issue & potentially use other methods to double check before they apply something like CT1.
Thanks a lot for this video. What seemed unmanageable ended up to be a 30 minutes job.
What silicone should I use. Do I need to take the trims off
Use a low modulus silicone like this one; amzn.to/3LqQRxT. Yes, I'd take the trims off to check there's not a load of dirt/moss trapped in the drainage channels; that can cause problems & is an easier issue to fix!
Last night I was looking at the seal on mine & the silicone adhesive hasn’t weathered well 8 months later. I’ll be trying a different brand/type & will report back.
Thank you
You're welcome ☺️ Hope this (and the other video) help fix your leak.. let me know how it goes!
I just had the same issue and found the cause of a small leak in the bottom corner area. GGLM06 78x118cm on a 45 degree pitch. The small exposed screw in the flashing was loose and rusty. This enabled the rain to get in through it over the years rotting the corner of the wooden frame wtf. So Velux misled me when i bought it over 10 years ago :(.
I'll do your trick and use silicone after cleaning it all. Nightmare.
Thanks
You're welcome; fyi I changed my brand of silicone after the one I showed in the video (CT1) didn't last 8 months.. it ended up being brittle. I'm hoping some window-specific sealant I bought will last longer!
@@Endpoint101 Nice, can i ask which sealant?
Ofc. It is Everflex contract 225 - Industrial & glazing silicone. I'm hoping it'll be decent with a name like that 😉
This is only a half-hearted repair. It's not the proper way to fix it, even though it may work and is fine as an emergency repair.
You need to take the entire window out and reseal it with the original Velux butyl sealant replacement kit (or any other butyl seals, BUT they need the right circumference for the right areas of the window). It's important to take the whole window out, not just to do the seal repair the proper way, but also to check the state of the screws holding the frame in, as well as the brackets that push the glass onto the lower frame, which the top frame goes into. Some of my screws were rusted out and lifting off the frame, I also had two of the three (in my case it was three, may be different depending on model) brackets rusted off and bending off the lower frame. Without providing the required pressure between lower frame and top frame, your window will never be 100% sealed because the seals above the glass with the top frame and the seals below the glass with the lower frame aren't being pushed tight.
The reason for water leaks is water going below the metal casing, which you are filling in this video, through the rotten outer butyl seals, damaging out the wooden pieces that keep the glass in place within the frame, then below the glass, out of the inner sealant, into the corners of the window.
If you need guidance understanding what I'm saying, refer to this video: th-cam.com/video/l7S2xac9X80/w-d-xo.html (it's French though)
Ah yes, I'd watched that video when I was wondering how to attempt to fix mine.. it looks rather involved! It'd be interesting to know how much all this would cost if I got someone in to do it.. I doubt it'd be cheap :(
@ it’s actually surprisingly cheap. I paid 30 euros for one of these genuine VELUX repair sets online. Depending on the shop, you may pay up to 70-90 euros, so compare prices carefully! The set includes seals of two kinds, all the screws you need (torx instead of old ones) and watertight butyl pads that you can use to waterproof your screw holes. I think both butyl seals are like 5 metres in length, not sure. Depending on your window size, you will go through one package quicker or slower. I ended up paying 30 bucks for one set, and with one day of hard work, my window is watertight again. New window would cost around 3000 euros. Just be sure to have a second or even third person with you. Taking the window out and especially putting it back in can be seriously hard work if it’s a larger window, like mine (114x140cm). Of course, the question whether the window is worth repairing depends on the state of your glass and the state of the mounting frame. My window is now 33 years old, but those are still alright. Cover your floor because those windows are extremely dirty and you will need to remove old seals and clean the surfaces before resealing.