How to change Rear wheel bearings on BMW R1100RT RS GS R| Restoration biker
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- The number of times owners get told that their 'rear bearings' are shot.
When in fact it is hardly ever the rear bearings themselves. In this video I aim to show you how to check for worn bearings, how to check that it is the rear bearings, and how to repair the bearings that cause the problem. This is the same job on most oilhead BMW's built between 1994 and 2005. This repair is being done on an R1100RT but it is the same job on any of the other bikes listed. Feel free to let me know if there is any job you would like me to do a video on. As the weather gets better there will be some 'ride out' videos coming this year. Why not subscribe and click the bell so that you get all of my videos as I list them.
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Seems straightforward. Not very complicated.
I need to do this as I has play in rear wheel.
Yes, it is a straight forward job. Just do it one bit at a time. You will need heat on the pivot bolts, and a wheel bar to undo them, as they are tight. But apart from that you can do them easily. The bearings are dear £70 a side, but they last for ages. Don't forget when you pre-load at the end, don't go too tight. good luck. If you get any problems let me know, and I will help you.
Never hammer on the inner race of a bearing, put a socket on the outer race then hammering , that's the good way to do !
Hi, Yes you are dead right, my bad there sorry. Especially true when the bearing cost £70
@@RestorationBiker Put the bearing in the freezer before installing. Warm the aluminum bearing pocket. That will reduce the diameter of the bearing and increase the diameter of the pocket.
@@ernstpeischl9365 Yes, that is a method I use quite a bit too. Especially with wheel bearings.
I always put bearings in the freezer for a few hours before fitting them. By rights this should make them shrink a little and make them easier to fit. Keep them in the plastic bag so they don’t get ice on them, obviously.
Yes, I often do that when doing wheel bearings on cars where the bearing is large and an 'interference' fit
Thanks for posting this. It looks like I need to replace the swing arm bearings.
The bearings at the paralever arm are the ones that 'go' the most (see my video) the swinging arm bearings that are located at the gearbox end of the swinging arm, rarely give any problems.
@@RestorationBiker thanks for the clarification.
@@aaron___6014 No problem. Let me know if you need any more help
Ur a badass tech even if you use fairy oil
Hi, Thanks for the comment. I have been fixing vehicles as my main job for 50 years!!! Blimey that's scary to say.
Great help cheers !!!
Thank you, glad it helped you.
Thank you thank you Thank you thank you
You are so welcome
Nicely done sir. I was hoping to see the check for play after the new bearing was fitted. Nonetheless a very informative demonstration. I have just had an MOT advisory for rear wheel bearing play on my R 1100 RT. I shall be doing the wiggle checks with more confidence now. Thank you. 👍
Hi, Many thanks. When it is assembled you must torque the inside nut to allow the correct pre-load on the bearings. Too much will destroy the bearing, not enough will allow movement which will also destroy the bearing. In the books I have read that torque setting is 7nm. But I know there is quite a few people who dispute BMW;s advice. That is why I say that people can decide what they want to torque it too. Once torqued there shouldn't be any play or else you have a bearing fault. So you can check for play in the same way as you did before. If there is suddenly play in a bearing it will probably mean it needs a new bearing. These are quite a fragile bearings under a lot of stress. So, it is paramount that it is assembled correctly, or you will be doing the job again. These bearings are not cheap. Hope this helps, thanks for the comments.
Awesome thanks!
Glad you liked it, thanks
Well done Sir. Thanks for sharing. I own an R1150RT and while this isn’t on my list to be done immediately, sooner or later it will. It’s only a matter of time. The only question is have is, after removing the final drive, why didn’t you lubricate the splines while you had it apart?
Hi, Good question, I must admit I always squirt a bit of grease in there whenever I have one apart. I didn't mention it as I do it without thinking. I should have made it clearer as it is a good bit of maintenance needed whenever the diff is removed.
Thanks from Brazil
Hi, Many thanks.to you too.
Good to see you getting it fixed mate. See you on the road sometime. 🙂
Hi,
Yes, got it all cleaned up too. It looks superb. Can't wait to get on it now and ride it. See you soon.
Is it possible to have the U joints out of phase when you slide the spline back together? That's not a good thig.
Hi, yes I have seen quite a few videos where people say "They MUST be phased" But!! I have done loads of these shafts, as well as on other bikes. I have never phased any shaft. It doesn't mention it in the factory manuals, so, I can assume it doesn't make any difference. If the shaft HAD to be phased you would find a 'master spline' on the shaft allowing it to ONLY be fitted one way. Some splined shafts (balance shafts etc) must be phased and I have seen a master spline fitted to them.
good presentation .thanks for sharing .
Hi, Thanks, glad you liked it.
You need to reset the caliper pistons before checking for play
Yes the disc mustn't be binding!!
Thank you so much!
Thank you, glad you liked it.
You are changing one bearing, but there are two of them, on both sides. Maybe it would be better to change both at once?
Hi, yes you are dead right. But this bike had been failed for a 'wheel bearing' on his MOT, and the owner only wanted to replace the damaged bearing. If you are doing a full restoration, then perhaps you would do both whilst you are there.
Baba Büyüksün Baba 👍🏽🌬🖐
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks
I'm guessing you put some grease on the spline?
Hi, yes I always grease the splines if I remove them for any other work.
Restoration biker please advise.
1) After a very spirited high speed ride I parked the bike (1999 R1100RT) in the garage. Came out about an 1 hour later to discover final drive fluid on the garage floor. At initial check it appeared that the leak was at the FD drain bolt but in fact not the case.
I checked the vent hole and it is not plugged.
2) Bike with 110k miles has significant play in the rear wheel when manipulating the wheel @ 6 & 12 o'clock positions.
3) Please give me some direction in regards to the leak. I will replace the para lever bearings per your video.
Thank you in advance
Robert from California
Hi Robert hope it is fine in the US. The probable cause of oil coming out of the final drive is either. Drain plug leaking, main O ring leaking, or a leak from the case joint itself. It is unlikely to be the case joints (but worth a check) Could be the crush washer on the drain plug. a lot of these bikes do get a 'misting' which appears on the rim of the rear wheel, after a long or 'spirited' ride. It can be the large O ring which is allowing a small mist to leak out. I have experienced this with a few of the bikes I have owned. I have never let it worry me so long as it is only a light misting. If the case is wet then it may be time to get a new seal fitted, (not a hard job) I will see if I can do a video to cover the rear oil seal of the final drive to help you out. I have an RT at the moment which is giving a light misting so I will put a video together for you soon.
Regards from the UK
@@RestorationBiker Your thah Man! I'll remove the final drive this weekend for starters. Best regards, Robert
I would recommend to refill oil after this procedure 🙂
Hi, Yes, you are right many thanks.
@@RestorationBiker Anyhow, really super video!!! Many thanks. It was really useful.
@@zippyzonka Thanks for your comments. Glad you liked it.
You should source the complete front fork, all 3 brake calipers and discs, rims from a R1150.
Will upgrade the look a lot and a tiny bit more acceleration hence a 17inch on the back.
These bigger wide open brake disc are cool, you can seen through the wheel in contrary to now.
Yes, you are right. That is the good thing about these bikes. You can swap and change any of the bits from virtually the whole range. I saw a video, of a guy who had an RT and he changed it to a GS! Amazing.
@@RestorationBiker the brakes are 15mm bigger, the calipers are the same as found on Japanese sport bikes, that Japanese brand, the hollow appearance of the discs, the km counter is the same part, the axle is as wel, besides you have 10 year younger chrome pipes without pitting, rust or anything, together with steel braided brake lines, the performance wile be improved by alot.
.. and you need to replace the wheel bolts and wheel spacer that hold on the rear wheel.
@@AnalogDude_ Yes the more you look the more you can see. There are lots of guys who like to change things and make it better, or faster etc.
@@RestorationBiker well, it makes the bike appear 8 / 9 years younger, you can find the parts at a motor salvage yard, the recycle crashed bikes and so, just try to make sure the disc are bolted on wheels otherwise you spend a lot of buying bolts, over 100€ if you need to buy all including discs, spacers.
@@AnalogDude_ Yes, you are right. I love all the things that you can do. Especially with these BMW's
Je me demandais comment aligner les croisillons de cardan , mais apparemment personne ne s'en inquiète....
Hi, Some people think that they MUST be aligned. But I have never worried about aligning them. I have done many bikes with shafts and quite a lot of cars too when they had prop shafts. There is no reason to worry. Take care.
Oui, c’est essentiël. On peut choisir, hors de parfait, entre 5 degrees deligné, alors tard ou tôt. YT a des video’s de ça…
I can't believe that you hammered those bearing. Get a grip. Learn how to be a proper mechanic, not a hack.
But late now, I've been doing it for 50 years. A light tap in the right place at the right time does wonders. Hit it hard at the wrong time in the wrong way = DESTRUCTION When I did my apprenticeship, the first job we were given was a 1" steel ball. We had to turn that ball into a 1" cube. The ONLY tools we were allowed to use were a hammer, a chisel and a file. They then measured the size of each face using a micrometer. It HAD to be an inch. If you couldn't do that you were shown the door. So the use of a hammer can be a precision tool. If you know how to use it.
That is OK if you have been damaging your own bearings for 50 years. Showing and implying knowledge of a correct procedure when it is entirely incorrect could easily develop into a tragedy and at the least is a serious disappointment for the less informed. If you have a hammer in hand when installing bearings, you are about to show incompetence. Regarding your 50 years of experience, shame on you. @@RestorationBiker
I expect that you meant to say that you were given a cube and had a carve out a ball. The reverse as you stated, would not be possible. You must have learned early that compromising was a common and proper solution. Damaging precision bearings when installing on your own personal repairs is your choice but not on youtube where thousands of people are trying to learn correct procedures. Hammers to instal bearings are never acceptable.