It's just remarkable how many roofers disagree with each other. Obviously it's not just roofers, it's every trade possible. And if something goes wrong with their work it's always some other trade that is to blame. Damp "specialists" blaming builders, builders blaming plumbers, plumber blaming electricians etc. And the best one is "I've been in a (insert a trade) for (insert home many decades) and you're doing it wrong, argument. Honestly Pouse, you're doing a great job. I am certain you're doing this job better than 90% of "roofers" out there, as they just want to take your money, get the job done as quick as possible, as they have other 10 lined up that they already taken deposits for. You're doing the roof for yourself and you know, if it fails - it's on you. Great job my man! Seriously enjoying the series. You're showing every little thing you do and explaining while you did it. The most comprehensive loft conversation video series on TH-cam.
Really appreciate the feedback. Exactly as you said if it goes wrong it's on me, but with some research and a bit of common sense there's no reason why my roof should leak, in fact my loft has been complete for 2 years and it hasn't leaked, not so much as a trickle so it's obviously worked. It took a while but I'm happy I won't have to get back on the roof for a few years!! Thanks for the support.
It did. Working alone and trying to think of how you want it to be seen can be challenging but it's worth it when so many people enjoy watching or find it useful. When I die, I have a legacy..'the cowboy who tacked his loft together on youtube'! Thanks for watching.
There's a difference between "hating" and constructive observation. The problem with most home owners is that they want a champagne job done for cider money. I have twenty-five years experience, a full size van on the road with ten grands worth of kit. Yet most home owners expect me to work for a pot of tea and a plate of sandwiches, 🙄🙄
I am not a construction guy or roofer, this guy is really good. That bit where he cuts the triangle out of the ridge cap... seems vulnerable to rain when the cement underneath gets old. Not sure what else you can do as it does not overlap : ) I thought they were supposed to wear a safety harness up there.
"Luv the retaining fence for the mortar and tiles. Can I add though, the first hip or ridge tile has the cap removed and it is considered good practice to turn the tile round so that the manufactured edge is seen and the cut edge is hidden. "
Like your videos Pouse. I'm up to roof height on a new porch and using the same Marley ridge tiles. Not sure yet how I'm going to finish the inner joint against the house wall. I'm fitting lead soakers and then lead sheet cut into the wall and over the soakers but over the ridge tile... not sure? appreciate and suggestions. Cheers.
Sounds ok to me. Bear in mind I'm not a roofer, I did some research and used some common sense. Best of luck with it, thanks for watching and let me know how you got on.
Yh mate that’s wat I do and wen I put screw hole in end ridge I use petrol cutter to cut a grove on under side of ridge but I don’t cut it all way thro then punch it thro with hammer and nail ( if not got Combi drill on me )
It would seem that LABC has changed the old method of fitting the old half round ridge tiles. My loft entension has just been re roofed and the ridges are not cemented in, but they have a black membrane underneath them with stainless brackets holding them on. I can't say it looks great but was informed that these are the latest requirements from Building Control. What is ridiculous about this is it's just another one of those crazy ideas where they think it will prevent condensation forming under them, but there now has to be screw holes in the membrane where small amounts of rain could get into the underlying timbers creating what they were trying to prevent in the first place! It's like the internal sloping ceilings which have to have Duplex foil backed plasterboard with even more insulation in them even though I have 100mm between the rafters already. I give up!
I think you're talking about a dry fix ridge system. I don't particularly like the look of them either so I went for this method but the screw is required for the mechanical fix to stop them falling off if mortar fails which is fair enough I guess. As for insulation, you're right, it's crazy, an old house like mine with draughty chimneys yet they still want me to have 130mm of insulation board in the roof. Rules gone mad! Thanks for the comment and good luck with your extension.
Dry ridge system, easier for effective 5mm high level ventilation to the roof void along with the low level ventilation. Wet ridge part blocks the ventilation allowing more chance of moisture to condensate. Unless you use a tyvek membrane and dont ventilate the roof, but down to manufacturers data sheet they may need vcl to ceiling warm side. Think a new british standard changed fixing requirements.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE A little tip if you cut the two top eaves little longer you won't have to fiddle about with that little piece of slate underneath the ridge, it will look a lot neater as well. I also cut a piece of expermet wedge it in there or fix it to ridge board and put some dehydrated lime in yr mix makes your muck more pliable it wont slump and it wont fall out later. You can buy metal adjustable brackets to fit battens for running hips and ridges, never used them myself but I've seen young lads using them.
Really great to watch you, I’ve just purchased a house that’s recently had the loft converted. Have you have any cracks in your bedroom ceilings whilst doing all this work ?
Loft finished now. Few crack here and there but more so downstairs plaster board in the ceiling. You'l always get that with building work. How's yours holding up? Thanks for watching.
Outside as been done for a while. This video was filmed a year ago. Just don't have the time to edit videos quick enough! Thanks for your continued support!
Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I've often gone through my video footage and thought 'Why didn't I do that?', hence the saying 'we learn from our mistakes' I guess. Thanks for watching again Paul.
That wasn't Big Pouse in the video, it was his brother from another mother. Big Pouse needs a rocket up his bum to get his channel started! Thanks for watching.
@@matthewgreen1443 I haven't done anything yet sorry. 2 years of footage! To busy building and not enough time editing but I'm hoping as the winter comes I'll catch a few rainy days to get my act together!
@@matthewgreen1443 We've been getting mixed up all our life! Tap my logo and it will take you to CharlieShooters Knowhow. Hope you'll find some useful videos in there too! 👍🏼
Personally I think the bits that stick out under the ridge tiles on a dry ridge system look awful especially on an old house. Hense why I went for this. Thanks for watching.
I'm not a roofer so please don't let it give your trade a bad name. What would you have done differently? (Queue the reply... 'everything!') What do you think of dry ridge systems? Thanks for watching!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE there should of been a continuous vent across the ridge if there's insulation between rafters then there's going to be condensation rotting your rafters. I have to fix this issue regularly from builders thinking that roofing is simple but they haven't got a clue about thermal bridging.
@@skilledbuilduk9694 I have facia vents with an air gap above insulation under the slates. I've used a fully breathable membrane and have maintained a continuous gap beneath the ridge tiles. Thanks for watching.
Seriously mate , your ridge tiles are going to blow off and either damage something or seriously hurt/kill someone. the entire space under the ridge should be filled with mortar and especially around the lap area in a 3 to 1 ratio mix. and to current regs you should have fixed a batten to your trusses / ridge tree the whole length of the ridge and screwed the ridges in with the correct stainless screws.
Did you watch the video? I used the correct stainless screws to fix every tile into the ridge board, didn't need a batten as ridge board was close enough to tile. I explained and showed it in the video. I used a high quality sealant to fix tiles together as mortar between tiles fails in time. This method also allows water to drain freely from the capped part of the tile. The air gap underneath each tile provides ventilation. I explain the mix in the video. If you pack every tile full of mortar, expansion and contraction will fracture the ridge tile in time causing moisture ingress. It also leaves no room for ventilation. I would say thanks for watching the video but I'm not sure you actually did. Thanks for the comment!
And just to add, I don't have trusses, I have a traditional timber roof with rafters and a ridge board. You're referring to attaching a batten to a trussed roof using a fixing kit I believe? The roof has been finished for well over a year and I can assure you all aspects of it are fine in all weather, not so much as a trickle!
I've been a roofer for nearly 25 years mate. What you have done is dangerous, and negligent. And it's not up to regs so if a ridge comes off and kills someone, you will be liable.
So why not use a waterproof membrane under those ridge tiles, over the gap in the roof tiles, before laying the ridge line tiles...?? Thought it was a building regs requirement to do so, as well as mechanical fixing...???...and of course it would prevent the need to ‘use a little bit of slate over the gap’, when pointing up the ends of the ridges...!
The slate was for the overhang over the barge board on the gable to allow mortar to stay put. Felt wouldn't have worked. How would you hold the felt down to the slate? If you put the ridge tiles onto the membrane it would look terrible. I think you might be referring to a dry ridge system. I used clay capped tiles so went more of a traditional route but with mechanical fixing. Dry ridge system on my roof wouldn't look right in my opinion. Thanks for the comment.
What a mess, why have you bed them on under the Harris? the angle of your Harris is the way you tell if there needing a bed or centre bed, good job you mechanically fixed them or they'd be blowing off in 2 years bed on composite slates🤦♂️ Also assuming there will be insulation between the rafters as it's a loft conversion where the hell is your continuous vent? As it must be a warm roof system as its impossible to be a cold roof with it being a room underneath unless your not insulating and plasterboarding it inside and your through draft comes through the room from eaves vents or brick vents in both gables. I've been roofing 18 years and can say that's not how you ridge a loft conversion. To much bad advice on TH-cam that's why I'm constantly going to sort out thermal bridging issues inexperienced builders and youtube dummies.
I've used facia vents with air gap over insulation (as per regs) so there's a continuous flow of air along rafters. Tyvek fully breathable membrane. You roofers need to decide how it is done. I've been told fill with mortar, don't use mortar, use different screws, and even stick on with foam! You all say your way is right which is why I do it myself. To many egos in the building trade. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE perfect reply. I really couldn't agree with this statement more. Everyone thinks that their way is best. They were generally trained and informed by the salesman or the manufacturer of the products they use, who of course will say this is the right way and everyone else is wrong!
Thanks for the plug Pouse....glad I was of some use! Nice to see Mrs Shooter made an appearance up the ladder too!
No problem. Get back to work!
It's just remarkable how many roofers disagree with each other. Obviously it's not just roofers, it's every trade possible. And if something goes wrong with their work it's always some other trade that is to blame. Damp "specialists" blaming builders, builders blaming plumbers, plumber blaming electricians etc. And the best one is "I've been in a (insert a trade) for (insert home many decades) and you're doing it wrong, argument.
Honestly Pouse, you're doing a great job. I am certain you're doing this job better than 90% of "roofers" out there, as they just want to take your money, get the job done as quick as possible, as they have other 10 lined up that they already taken deposits for. You're doing the roof for yourself and you know, if it fails - it's on you.
Great job my man! Seriously enjoying the series. You're showing every little thing you do and explaining while you did it. The most comprehensive loft conversation video series on TH-cam.
Really appreciate the feedback. Exactly as you said if it goes wrong it's on me, but with some research and a bit of common sense there's no reason why my roof should leak, in fact my loft has been complete for 2 years and it hasn't leaked, not so much as a trickle so it's obviously worked. It took a while but I'm happy I won't have to get back on the roof for a few years!! Thanks for the support.
Well done for doing all these videos on your conversion. It must have added lots of time to the job. 👏👏👏👏
It did. Working alone and trying to think of how you want it to be seen can be challenging but it's worth it when so many people enjoy watching or find it useful. When I die, I have a legacy..'the cowboy who tacked his loft together on youtube'! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE your a good man.!
@@shiraznawaz6646 I'm glad someone thinks so! Thanks for watching.
Love your videos on the loft conversion. I'm learning a lot. 🙂
My volume button is like a seesaw though every time that annoying loud music starts.
Sorry, the sound was a bit hit and miss with the old editing software. Thanks for watching.
Lovely job - don't fancy walking around the roof as you do!
I wouldn't be doing it without scaffolding! Thanks for watching.
First class workmanship!
Thanks!
Not a bad job to be fair Sir, I would have put a bit more mortar under those ridge tiles with a few bits of broken tile, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Bravo super travail , vous êtes un professionnel
Ignore the haters mate, it's great knowing you dont have to pay people when you have a bit of know how, and that's what annoys them.
The guys saying it’s not correct are correct. Next time fix atleast 2 to 3 batons to to the top of the ridge board for an effective fixing
Thanks for the feedback!
There's a difference between "hating" and constructive observation. The problem with most home owners is that they want a champagne job done for cider money. I have twenty-five years experience, a full size van on the road with ten grands worth of kit. Yet most home owners expect me to work for a pot of tea and a plate of sandwiches, 🙄🙄
Great job Pouse, great entertainment, keep going mate you put some of those roofers to shame.
Thanks 👍
I am not a construction guy or roofer, this guy is really good. That bit where he cuts the triangle out of the ridge cap... seems vulnerable to rain when the cement underneath gets old. Not sure what else you can do as it does not overlap : ) I thought they were supposed to wear a safety harness up there.
Marvellous stuff. Really looking good now.
Thanks for the feedback.
Nice! Love these vids!! When you've finished this can you build a bloody huge house that takes you a few years please? Plenty of vids then!!!
I'd love to, I'll just need your credit card details to transfer some money to me!
Fix two or three batons to the top of the ridge board for a secure fixing
Thanks for the advise Steven.
"Luv the retaining fence for the mortar and tiles. Can I add though, the first hip or ridge tile has the cap removed and it is considered good practice to turn the tile round so that the manufactured edge is seen and the cut edge is hidden.
"
I like it this way round. I think it looks nicer when filled with mortar. Just my preference though. It also creates a overhang. Thanks for watching!
Great video and wow what a lot of controversy. Totally confused, can't decide what to believe ! Even the roofers don't seem to agree .
I don't even know what to believe!! Thanks for watching another video!
Tata fairwell... another great vid 👌🏾
Thank you!
Like your videos Pouse. I'm up to roof height on a new porch and using the same Marley ridge tiles. Not sure yet how I'm going to finish the inner joint against the house wall. I'm fitting lead soakers and then lead sheet cut into the wall and over the soakers but over the ridge tile... not sure? appreciate and suggestions. Cheers.
Sounds ok to me. Bear in mind I'm not a roofer, I did some research and used some common sense. Best of luck with it, thanks for watching and let me know how you got on.
What are them slates, they look thin but tough?
For the tip of the dormer ( 14:11 ) i'd guess that a spare piece of lead sheet would be easier to stop the mortar?
Probably, sometimes I would just encounter a problem and have to improvise a bit. Thanks for watching.
Or maybe cut the verge topper slate on each side to meet each other so that can hold the cement
Awesome vids.. cheers
Thanks for the comment.
You can punch the holes for the ridge tiles from underneath with a hammer and nail of you have nt got a drill
Thanks for the comment!
Yh mate that’s wat I do and wen I put screw hole in end ridge I use petrol cutter to cut a grove on under side of ridge but I don’t cut it all way thro then punch it thro with hammer and nail ( if not got Combi drill on me )
What slates have you used?
Cembrit jutland.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE are these good slates compared to Welsh slates?
It would seem that LABC has changed the old method of fitting the old half round ridge tiles. My loft entension has just been re roofed and the ridges are not cemented in, but they have a black membrane underneath them with stainless brackets holding them on. I can't say it looks great but was informed that these are the latest requirements from Building Control. What is ridiculous about this is it's just another one of those crazy ideas where they think it will prevent condensation forming under them, but there now has to be screw holes in the membrane where small amounts of rain could get into the underlying timbers creating what they were trying to prevent in the first place!
It's like the internal sloping ceilings which have to have Duplex foil backed plasterboard with even more insulation in them even though I have 100mm between the rafters already. I give up!
I think you're talking about a dry fix ridge system. I don't particularly like the look of them either so I went for this method but the screw is required for the mechanical fix to stop them falling off if mortar fails which is fair enough I guess. As for insulation, you're right, it's crazy, an old house like mine with draughty chimneys yet they still want me to have 130mm of insulation board in the roof. Rules gone mad! Thanks for the comment and good luck with your extension.
Dry ridge system, easier for effective 5mm high level ventilation to the roof void along with the low level ventilation. Wet ridge part blocks the ventilation allowing more chance of moisture to condensate. Unless you use a tyvek membrane and dont ventilate the roof, but down to manufacturers data sheet they may need vcl to ceiling warm side.
Think a new british standard changed fixing requirements.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE A little tip if you cut the two top eaves little longer you won't have to fiddle about with that little piece of slate underneath the ridge, it will look a lot neater as well. I also cut a piece of expermet wedge it in there or fix it to ridge board and put some dehydrated lime in yr mix makes your muck more pliable it wont slump and it wont fall out later. You can buy metal adjustable brackets to fit battens for running hips and ridges, never used them myself but I've seen young lads using them.
Really great to watch you, I’ve just purchased a house that’s recently had the loft converted. Have you have any cracks in your bedroom ceilings whilst doing all this work ?
Loft finished now. Few crack here and there but more so downstairs plaster board in the ceiling. You'l always get that with building work. How's yours holding up? Thanks for watching.
Use a paddle mixer easier than by hand
Not got far to go for the ale house.
If you catch him smiling then he's probably already been!
I have to look at it all closed up during this lockdown...shame!!
Won't be long before the roof is finished, then the indoor works start.
Outside as been done for a while. This video was filmed a year ago. Just don't have the time to edit videos quick enough! Thanks for your continued support!
Looking forward to it !!
Why don't you cut the two end top slates until they meet then fill with morter
Hindsight is a wonderful thing! I've often gone through my video footage and thought 'Why didn't I do that?', hence the saying 'we learn from our mistakes' I guess. Thanks for watching again Paul.
Get some cement verges under your batons on the dormer
That would have been a good shout! Too late now.
Looks good. What was the point of the wooden frame? If it's on the point of the roof and secured by screws?
Anyway you live and learn!
I mentioned in video, it was to stop the mortar sliding down the tiles while I secured them in place. Thanks for watching.
Bloody hell, it's like crack cocaine this channel, been binging for the last 2 days, brilliant.
Well be careful, I'm not paying for your rehab! Thanks for watching.
😂
Absolutely great videos but the same few songs every time is torture haha
Later vids have different music so hopefully they will be more bearable! Thanks for watching.
Link big pouse new channel in link or in comments
That wasn't Big Pouse in the video, it was his brother from another mother. Big Pouse needs a rocket up his bum to get his channel started! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE looked very much like him lol.a link would still be good.
@@matthewgreen1443 I haven't done anything yet sorry. 2 years of footage! To busy building and not enough time editing but I'm hoping as the winter comes I'll catch a few rainy days to get my act together!
@@matthewgreen1443 We've been getting mixed up all our life! Tap my logo and it will take you to CharlieShooters Knowhow. Hope you'll find some useful videos in there too! 👍🏼
@@charlieshooter I have already found you bud. They say there is always a double out there lol.
im not a roofer, but those ridge tiles dont seem to be the right pitch for your? Ref. filling the gap with mortar?
That's pretty standard. Thanks for watching.
Like you said. You're not a roofer.
Doesn't the concrete corrode lead if it touches?
Once it's set it's fine. Thanks for watching!
No need to cement ridge tiles far too messy as you can see use dry ridge system more effective and on these composite slates they Mark very easily
Personally I think the bits that stick out under the ridge tiles on a dry ridge system look awful especially on an old house. Hense why I went for this. Thanks for watching.
Wat r u by trade pousie
An office worker!
Have you got a Facebook page Pouse??
No! Thanks for watching.
Charlie Shooters Know How! Can I join the gang please?!
Get on with it then!
You need to get editing all that footage!
As a roofer watching this video it has gave the whole trade a bad name
I'm not a roofer so please don't let it give your trade a bad name. What would you have done differently? (Queue the reply... 'everything!') What do you think of dry ridge systems? Thanks for watching!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE from my experience the roofing trade does a pretty good job of giving itself a bad name. Just my experience of course!
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE there should of been a continuous vent across the ridge if there's insulation between rafters then there's going to be condensation rotting your rafters. I have to fix this issue regularly from builders thinking that roofing is simple but they haven't got a clue about thermal bridging.
@@skilledbuilduk9694 I have facia vents with an air gap above insulation under the slates. I've used a fully breathable membrane and have maintained a continuous gap beneath the ridge tiles. Thanks for watching.
@@skilledbuilduk9694 please see part 14 of my loft conversion for more info.
Seriously mate , your ridge tiles are going to blow off and either damage something or seriously hurt/kill someone. the entire space under the ridge should be filled with mortar and especially around the lap area in a 3 to 1 ratio mix. and to current regs you should have fixed a batten to your trusses / ridge tree the whole length of the ridge and screwed the ridges in with the correct stainless screws.
Did you watch the video? I used the correct stainless screws to fix every tile into the ridge board, didn't need a batten as ridge board was close enough to tile. I explained and showed it in the video. I used a high quality sealant to fix tiles together as mortar between tiles fails in time. This method also allows water to drain freely from the capped part of the tile. The air gap underneath each tile provides ventilation. I explain the mix in the video. If you pack every tile full of mortar, expansion and contraction will fracture the ridge tile in time causing moisture ingress. It also leaves no room for ventilation. I would say thanks for watching the video but I'm not sure you actually did. Thanks for the comment!
And just to add, I don't have trusses, I have a traditional timber roof with rafters and a ridge board. You're referring to attaching a batten to a trussed roof using a fixing kit I believe? The roof has been finished for well over a year and I can assure you all aspects of it are fine in all weather, not so much as a trickle!
I've been a roofer for nearly 25 years mate. What you have done is dangerous, and negligent. And it's not up to regs so if a ridge comes off and kills someone, you will be liable.
Hadyn Williams. We'll just agree to disagree. Thanks for your comment.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE that's fine. But it's not a general opinion, it's genuine advice I'm a professional.
So why not use a waterproof membrane under those ridge tiles, over the gap in the roof tiles, before laying the ridge line tiles...?? Thought it was a building regs requirement to do so, as well as mechanical fixing...???...and of course it would prevent the need to ‘use a little bit of slate over the gap’, when pointing up the ends of the ridges...!
The slate was for the overhang over the barge board on the gable to allow mortar to stay put. Felt wouldn't have worked. How would you hold the felt down to the slate? If you put the ridge tiles onto the membrane it would look terrible. I think you might be referring to a dry ridge system. I used clay capped tiles so went more of a traditional route but with mechanical fixing. Dry ridge system on my roof wouldn't look right in my opinion. Thanks for the comment.
What a mess, why have you bed them on under the Harris? the angle of your Harris is the way you tell if there needing a bed or centre bed, good job you mechanically fixed them or they'd be blowing off in 2 years bed on composite slates🤦♂️
Also assuming there will be insulation between the rafters as it's a loft conversion where the hell is your continuous vent? As it must be a warm roof system as its impossible to be a cold roof with it being a room underneath unless your not insulating and plasterboarding it inside and your through draft comes through the room from eaves vents or brick vents in both gables.
I've been roofing 18 years and can say that's not how you ridge a loft conversion.
To much bad advice on TH-cam that's why I'm constantly going to sort out thermal bridging issues inexperienced builders and youtube dummies.
I've used facia vents with air gap over insulation (as per regs) so there's a continuous flow of air along rafters. Tyvek fully breathable membrane. You roofers need to decide how it is done. I've been told fill with mortar, don't use mortar, use different screws, and even stick on with foam! You all say your way is right which is why I do it myself. To many egos in the building trade. Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE perfect reply. I really couldn't agree with this statement more. Everyone thinks that their way is best. They were generally trained and informed by the salesman or the manufacturer of the products they use, who of course will say this is the right way and everyone else is wrong!
"I've been roofing 18 years" yet your up to number 22 of a build series on TH-cam.