This is what I love about our viewers, they will always find an exception to the rule and flag it up. Like the Prius owner who told me it's actually Ok to drive around with the engine off!
@@torquecars 😆😆😆That sounds so typical of a prius driver! Ppl will rationalize any way they can no matter what the subject may be. I know I've been guilty of that in the past
none of you videos have dislikes, thats incredible. I really like your videos as its pure information without any bias. this channel is pretty awesome.
Love your videos and agree with you whole heartily, only thing I kinda wanna chime in on is number 9, cold engines. Now I’ve worked on vehicles my whole adult life, civilian and military (il get to the military part in a minute) every car I’ve ever owned if it’s a petrol I let it get up to temp before driving off, a diesel (cause they take longer to warm up) I idle it for about 2-5 mins then drive off slowly until up to temp. Now vehicles are designed to idle higher when cold and grandly go down in rpm till the engine is comfortable, that is the cars way of telling you when it is warm, if you were to wait that is the time when you should drive off if you don’t want to wait for the coolant temp to get to operating temp. Turbo vehicles especially need to warm up and cool down or else simply put you’ll blow them up, happens all the time, given the advice before people have ignored it then came to me with blown up turbos literally all the time. Now military vehicles, before we move off in convoys, exercises, deployments we let me them all get up to temp first, they are massive engines that go through so much abuse in the first literal minutes of driving, if they were cold we’d blow up the engines more often so it’s good practise to idle them up to temp before driving off. Yes I agree combustion gases etc but all vehicles I’ve stripped engines down that have idled up as opposed to just get in an drive, look and are 10X healthier then those that don’t warm up. That’s my 2 cents on that
Good to know that the idling rpm is indicative of where it is in the warmup process. Even when my coolant temp is up to normal the idle is still at 850rpm, before reaching a normal value of 700rpm. All I have is a coolant light so it's hard to know but paying attention to rpm at idle is a good tip
@alexmilne7634 That is so true!! My coworkers think I'm strange b/c I spend the time to warm up my car before I take off(slowly at first) while they all go tearing down the road like they're at a drag strip immediately after starting up their cars. It's insane. I've seen them drag race each other from one light to the next just get to the nearby freeway onramp first while warming up my car. And what's really funny is I constantly over hear someone complaining that their cars are making odd or funny noises, or is experiencing a loss in performance, etc. I don't say anything to them b/c I've already tried to warn them, but they just disregard my advice. One lady is the worst: somehow she manages to put her car into drive before her car is finished turning over😳😳😳 She's also the most aggressive driver out of the 40ppl leaving the bldg every night. She brags that she changes her own oil, but she told me she changes it every 15k mi. She drive a 2016 TSX (GDI only, no port-style EFI) and she's always complaining her car is acting up, but she never changes her driving habits.
Regarding tyre pressures, if your car doesn’t come with a TPMS, simply get an aftermarket one. Will show live temps and pressures on each tyre with alarms for exceeding pre set values.
The typre pressure tip is something I really need to get ontop off. I've always just been udner the impression if it's udner 10 degrees here in the UK then leave the car on for a few minutes to warm up then it's safe to go so luckily not done that and hope that's sufficient time.
Me too, the Tyres don't get checked as often as I should when it's cold. With regard to warmup personally I would prefer to just get in and drive but use lower RPM ranges until it's up to temp. Tickover for a few seconds is a good idea to get the oil circulating, but you only need around 15-30 seconds for this.
Sorry just found this. Here in the states, I’ve always been taught that if you see it is at say the heat of the day at 80F and the temp at night will drop to 50F. Then that’s a difference of 30 degrees divide that by 10. You’ll get roughly the amount of air you need to add to your tires to make sure you meet the cold tire pressure you want to achieve. In the above hypothetical example it would be 3 psi. That is if you see your tires at say 38 psi, then no need to add air since the next morning it will be roughly 35 psi. If that’s what your car needs to be at.
7:30 The clutch is literally designed for being held at the bite point until the speed of the engine matches the transmission for smooth engagement. If you dont believe me go pick a gear, dump the clutch, and see what happens.
my worst habit is bogging the engine because I'm trying too hard to save fuel and don't want to ramp up the RPM by downshifting even though any fuel savings is without a doubt lesser than the increased wear on the engine. I've gotten better about it but still I drive an 11 mpg on a good day truck that requires premium fuel or e85. On your point with servicing I would say a lot of people even above average at maintaining their cars overlook the transmission fluid, transfer cases, and differentials. I'd go as far to say most people don't even touch them until something is wrong
I drive a manual transmission turbo car. I'm definitely guilty of lugging the engine from being in a high gear. But my brakes... I put them on when I got the car almost 3 years ago and roughly 60K miles, they still look new! I do absolutely use my Rev range! But I've also turned down my Rev limit. I believe stock is 7000, tuned puts it at 7200, I personally did a custom tune and I have set to either 65 or 6800... I can't remember. Still I rarely hit the limit. Usually I only get to about 6200 ish. Unless I launch it. Been wanting to launch in 2nd just to see if it's any better. I just spin all of 1st gear!
Incorrect on 8. Don't engine brake. Unless it's huge hills and you're in a large vehicle modern brakes are perfectly fine. Brakes are much cheaper than engines and transmissions.
I use Premium Diesel in my BLS TDI. Fast little van my Caddy. It came with 75kw and 250nm torque, the Australian market version. It's been serviced every February since 2007
when my EGR valve failed at about 108k miles the mechanic asked me if I drive everywhere in 6th gear, It not 6 speed.. I'm guilty of letting it idle for 3-4 mins in the winter to demist the windscreen, And I only drive it hard as soon as I get an oil temp reading 50c... , dpf regens are every 400 miles or so is this normal?
My honda ep3 don't like to go slow😅.if vtec kicks I at 5500 rpm then it obviously wants me to go to the fukk rev range. Don't know how turbo k20s cope when being abused but n/a loves it.
On cold days, I'm usually suitably dressed, so I turn off the blowers and open the windows, to allow the coolant to come up to temperature faster. If I don't do this, I see the oil temperature indicator (it only registers at 50 centigrade) come on long before the coolant has reached operating temperature. Is there any sense in doing this or is it just unnecessary. I do find it helps keep the interior of the car dry, ie I don't get as much vapour condensing on the windows and don't need to use the rear window heater. PS enjoy the videos. Educational without bias to any manufacturer or products.
Yes. Much engine wear happens at start-up. Idling on a cold morning to heat your engine is one of the worst things you can do. It takes MUCH longer to warm that way, and unburned fuel and moisture degrades the oil coating the cylinder walls, and that contaminated oil works down into the lower bearings, inflicting damage on them too. Best way to warm an engine is to drive it at moderate speeds. The load of driving requires the engine to burn more fuel, warming it faster, without over-loading the bearings and cylinder liners. Lots of short runs is considered 'Severe Service', and requires more frequent oil changes. Best you can do is take the car on a highway run at least once a week to get your engine hot, so the unburned fuel and moisture in your oil has a chance to evaporate off. I find my car takes at least 40-km on the highway before the engine oil is up to temperature, so I would double that to ensure the oil has time to boil off the contaminants.
For me two bad habbits. First At stops leaving the manual clutch pressed to avoid start stop action. Second bad habbit old fashion start and idle car for more than 5 minutes before driving. Good habbit visual check of tire pressure every day, and check weekly with a hand held pressure guage.
If that is the case then pulsing the brake on and off allows time for it to cool, more so than keeping it on all the time. Most automatics will allow you to manual downshift and some even do this when they detect a downward hill.
I wish all modern cars had a coolant temp gauge and oil temp gauge. Mine only has a coolant light that is blue for the cold start and may come on red if it overheats with no warning whatsoever. So annoying they dropped the gauge for a cleaner look I suppose.
Only 1 error. I do it on purpose because i have my dual mass flywheel that make noise and vibration. So to avoid all of that vibration going to the transmission i have the foot on the clutch standing still.
They seem to warm up pretty quickly. The lubricants specified and manufacturing tolerances also help minimize engine wear. For most short journeys you are not even using the engine, so on longer runs the engine cuts in and has time to warm up. When you look at the amount of cold journeys a hybrid does it is often less than a conventional engine.
My mom revs her car to redline straight out of the driveway like 10 seconds after it's started. Painful to witness given how fussy I am with my own car. My redline is at 6000 rpm and I don't go over 2,500 rpm until at least after 8 minutes of driving... and I'd go nowhere near redline until at least 15 mins
Park locks up the transmission, neutral allows the car to roll forward and many cars will creep forward in neutral. Improper use of either can damage the transmission, engaging park when rolling instead of neutral for example. High RPM does still affect the engine although most automatics will try to protect the engine and choose a higher gear even if you manually selected a gear that was too low. So you can probably do less damage in an auto because it is intelligent but it is still something to bear in mind.
@@torquecars oh, so you're saying to switch to neutral when on a long downhill road instead of using breaks? But doesn't neutral mean that the clutch is disengaged? I don't see how that helps to manage speed on a downhill road.
No you shouldn't use neutral whilst the car is moving on a hill, the brakes will not work as the servo assist will be less effective in most cars, and the engine braking will not be there at all. You would use neutral when being towed, or pushing the car, or sometimes when rolling to a stop (but rarely), also never engage park whilst the car is moving.
@@torquecarsyeah right. If the car supports shifting manually. The instruction manual for the car usually says that is the key time to use the manual mode on automatics. Drop it a gear or two. So that the engine slows you down and/or maintains the speed without needing brakes. If you have the old style of automatics without the manual mode. Namely the PRND21 or PRND32L or PRNDB kinds then just shift to 3 or B for some engine braking. To 2 for even more. And to 1 only if you need to pull say a boat out of the water.
Thank you for taking the time to comment my friend. When I investigated this I found the lack of increased efficiency is only true of older engines which are not designed to utilize higher octanes and things have really moved on. There are still quite a few TH-camrs still perpetuating this myth or presenting it as a conspiracy theory. If an engine is resisting knock more it will usually adjust to get more power from the fuel which does increase efficiency. With the advent of increased Ethanol in non premium fuels this is making a bigger difference to fuel economy than ever before as these high ethanol fuels provide less energy so you need to burn more. So it's something I fully investigated for myself and produced a video with my unbiased findings th-cam.com/video/QyX0LUL9bGc/w-d-xo.html it wasn't the result I was expecting at the time.
If you just ease off the throttle you are putting less load on the transmission than you would be when accelerating. However if you crash down a gear or two and cause the RPM to spike as it engages you will be causing quite a bit of extra wear and tear.
I might do a similar video for EV owners, there are still some problems to look out for, but like anything if you know about them you can generally avoid them.
EV's kill themselves. When I see an EV last 20 years going strong I'll consider it. The first model 3's are halfway there to what even the newest korean bottom of the barrel (kia and hyundai) car manufacturers have achieved.
You kill your car every time you drive it slow, because a little piece of its soul dies every time.
This 🗣️
Rotary engines need to run at high rpm, the saying for rotary owners is "a redline a day keeps the carbon away"
This is what I love about our viewers, they will always find an exception to the rule and flag it up. Like the Prius owner who told me it's actually Ok to drive around with the engine off!
@@torquecars 😆😆😆That sounds so typical of a prius driver! Ppl will rationalize any way they can no matter what the subject may be. I know I've been guilty of that in the past
none of you videos have dislikes, thats incredible. I really like your videos as its pure information without any bias. this channel is pretty awesome.
Another very informative video, keep up the good work thankyou
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the support and encouragement my friend.
Love your videos and agree with you whole heartily, only thing I kinda wanna chime in on is number 9, cold engines. Now I’ve worked on vehicles my whole adult life, civilian and military (il get to the military part in a minute) every car I’ve ever owned if it’s a petrol I let it get up to temp before driving off, a diesel (cause they take longer to warm up) I idle it for about 2-5 mins then drive off slowly until up to temp. Now vehicles are designed to idle higher when cold and grandly go down in rpm till the engine is comfortable, that is the cars way of telling you when it is warm, if you were to wait that is the time when you should drive off if you don’t want to wait for the coolant temp to get to operating temp. Turbo vehicles especially need to warm up and cool down or else simply put you’ll blow them up, happens all the time, given the advice before people have ignored it then came to me with blown up turbos literally all the time. Now military vehicles, before we move off in convoys, exercises, deployments we let me them all get up to temp first, they are massive engines that go through so much abuse in the first literal minutes of driving, if they were cold we’d blow up the engines more often so it’s good practise to idle them up to temp before driving off. Yes I agree combustion gases etc but all vehicles I’ve stripped engines down that have idled up as opposed to just get in an drive, look and are 10X healthier then those that don’t warm up. That’s my 2 cents on that
Good to know that the idling rpm is indicative of where it is in the warmup process. Even when my coolant temp is up to normal the idle is still at 850rpm, before reaching a normal value of 700rpm. All I have is a coolant light so it's hard to know but paying attention to rpm at idle is a good tip
@alexmilne7634 That is so true!! My coworkers think I'm strange b/c I spend the time to warm up my car before I take off(slowly at first) while they all go tearing down the road like they're at a drag strip immediately after starting up their cars. It's insane. I've seen them drag race each other from one light to the next just get to the nearby freeway onramp first while warming up my car. And what's really funny is I constantly over hear someone complaining that their cars are making odd or funny noises, or is experiencing a loss in performance, etc. I don't say anything to them b/c I've already tried to warn them, but they just disregard my advice. One lady is the worst: somehow she manages to put her car into drive before her car is finished turning over😳😳😳 She's also the most aggressive driver out of the 40ppl leaving the bldg every night. She brags that she changes her own oil, but she told me she changes it every 15k mi. She drive a 2016 TSX (GDI only, no port-style EFI) and she's always complaining her car is acting up, but she never changes her driving habits.
If you really want to take care of your pride and joy don't let anyone else drive it
Regarding tyre pressures, if your car doesn’t come with a TPMS, simply get an aftermarket one. Will show live temps and pressures on each tyre with alarms for exceeding pre set values.
Thanks for the valuable info', bro!
Any time! Your welcome, thanks for the support.
The typre pressure tip is something I really need to get ontop off.
I've always just been udner the impression if it's udner 10 degrees here in the UK then leave the car on for a few minutes to warm up then it's safe to go so luckily not done that and hope that's sufficient time.
Me too, the Tyres don't get checked as often as I should when it's cold.
With regard to warmup personally I would prefer to just get in and drive but use lower RPM ranges until it's up to temp. Tickover for a few seconds is a good idea to get the oil circulating, but you only need around 15-30 seconds for this.
@@torquecars Ah ok thanks for that, I think I'll do the same, makes sense, cheers =)
Sorry just found this. Here in the states, I’ve always been taught that if you see it is at say the heat of the day at 80F and the temp at night will drop to 50F. Then that’s a difference of 30 degrees divide that by 10. You’ll get roughly the amount of air you need to add to your tires to make sure you meet the cold tire pressure you want to achieve. In the above hypothetical example it would be 3 psi.
That is if you see your tires at say 38 psi, then no need to add air since the next morning it will be roughly 35 psi. If that’s what your car needs to be at.
7:30 The clutch is literally designed for being held at the bite point until the speed of the engine matches the transmission for smooth engagement. If you dont believe me go pick a gear, dump the clutch, and see what happens.
Tire pressure ,oil,coolant,brake an clutch fluid.
my worst habit is bogging the engine because I'm trying too hard to save fuel and don't want to ramp up the RPM by downshifting even though any fuel savings is without a doubt lesser than the increased wear on the engine. I've gotten better about it but still I drive an 11 mpg on a good day truck that requires premium fuel or e85.
On your point with servicing I would say a lot of people even above average at maintaining their cars overlook the transmission fluid, transfer cases, and differentials. I'd go as far to say most people don't even touch them until something is wrong
Thats true, it is often overlooked, with many thinking it is a filled "For Life" even when it has a change schedule in the service book.
No 5 is interesting, I wonder why manufacturers install stop start systems if turning the engine off without the turbo cooling is an issue?
Eu dont care about car or your pocket!
Because it’s “safer for the environment” but in reality especially if your car isn’t warm yet, is slowly killing your vehicle, turbo and starter motor
The environment is fine don't fall for all the climate change Hysteria from the government and media
Sending this video to my gf. She wont listen to me but maybe she will listen to you 😂
I drive a manual transmission turbo car. I'm definitely guilty of lugging the engine from being in a high gear. But my brakes... I put them on when I got the car almost 3 years ago and roughly 60K miles, they still look new! I do absolutely use my Rev range! But I've also turned down my Rev limit. I believe stock is 7000, tuned puts it at 7200, I personally did a custom tune and I have set to either 65 or 6800... I can't remember. Still I rarely hit the limit. Usually I only get to about 6200 ish. Unless I launch it. Been wanting to launch in 2nd just to see if it's any better. I just spin all of 1st gear!
Incorrect on 8. Don't engine brake. Unless it's huge hills and you're in a large vehicle modern brakes are perfectly fine. Brakes are much cheaper than engines and transmissions.
You need to use engine break its in the driving license test, its safe breaking. Also it does nothing to the engine and dont consume fuel.
i visually inspect my tires every morning. and every sunday check pressure with my gadget : )
Good stuff
I use Premium Diesel in my BLS TDI. Fast little van my Caddy. It came with 75kw and 250nm torque, the Australian market version. It's been serviced every February since 2007
when my EGR valve failed at about 108k miles the mechanic asked me if I drive everywhere in 6th gear, It not 6 speed.. I'm guilty of letting it idle for 3-4 mins in the winter to demist the windscreen, And I only drive it hard as soon as I get an oil temp reading 50c... , dpf regens are every 400 miles or so is this normal?
My honda ep3 don't like to go slow😅.if vtec kicks I at 5500 rpm then it obviously wants me to go to the fukk rev range. Don't know how turbo k20s cope when being abused but n/a loves it.
On cold days, I'm usually suitably dressed, so I turn off the blowers and open the windows, to allow the coolant to come up to temperature faster.
If I don't do this, I see the oil temperature indicator (it only registers at 50 centigrade) come on long before the coolant has reached operating temperature.
Is there any sense in doing this or is it just unnecessary.
I do find it helps keep the interior of the car dry, ie I don't get as much vapour condensing on the windows and don't need to use the rear window heater.
PS enjoy the videos. Educational without bias to any manufacturer or products.
in the majority of my trips, my engine oil reaches 70C in the first third of the trip, is that good enough?
Nice!
Thanks! I hope you are a reformed driver now! Lol
Yes. Much engine wear happens at start-up. Idling on a cold morning to heat your engine is one of the worst things you can do. It takes MUCH longer to warm that way, and unburned fuel and moisture degrades the oil coating the cylinder walls, and that contaminated oil works down into the lower bearings, inflicting damage on them too. Best way to warm an engine is to drive it at moderate speeds. The load of driving requires the engine to burn more fuel, warming it faster, without over-loading the bearings and cylinder liners.
Lots of short runs is considered 'Severe Service', and requires more frequent oil changes. Best you can do is take the car on a highway run at least once a week to get your engine hot, so the unburned fuel and moisture in your oil has a chance to evaporate off. I find my car takes at least 40-km on the highway before the engine oil is up to temperature, so I would double that to ensure the oil has time to boil off the contaminants.
For me two bad habbits.
First At stops leaving the manual clutch pressed to avoid start stop action. Second bad habbit old fashion start and idle car for more than 5 minutes before driving. Good habbit visual check of tire pressure every day, and check weekly with a hand held pressure guage.
Going down hill in an automatic, you kinda have to use the brake keep at a safe speed
If that is the case then pulsing the brake on and off allows time for it to cool, more so than keeping it on all the time. Most automatics will allow you to manual downshift and some even do this when they detect a downward hill.
I wish all modern cars had a coolant temp gauge and oil temp gauge. Mine only has a coolant light that is blue for the cold start and may come on red if it overheats with no warning whatsoever. So annoying they dropped the gauge for a cleaner look I suppose.
Not for a cleaner look. To save production costs, which they don't give to the buyer 😠
My friends dad drove around in 3rd gear, even from the start, he'll ride the clutch until he got up to speed.
You should place the camera higher. Advise from a middle aged man.
It's not just fashion tips us middle aged men need then. I'll review the camera setup, higher would actually make my life easier.
Only 1 error. I do it on purpose because i have my dual mass flywheel that make noise and vibration. So to avoid all of that vibration going to the transmission i have the foot on the clutch standing still.
First Comment
Next time I'll try to beat you. Cuz no one loves this channel more than me ;)
how do you warm up those hybrid/ turbo Toyotas & Lexus?
They seem to warm up pretty quickly. The lubricants specified and manufacturing tolerances also help minimize engine wear. For most short journeys you are not even using the engine, so on longer runs the engine cuts in and has time to warm up. When you look at the amount of cold journeys a hybrid does it is often less than a conventional engine.
You didn’t mention the 11th habit that kills an engine, allowing a female to drive it! 🤣🤣🤣
You do like to live dangerously! lol
👁👄👁
My mom revs her car to redline straight out of the driveway like 10 seconds after it's started. Painful to witness given how fussy I am with my own car. My redline is at 6000 rpm and I don't go over 2,500 rpm until at least after 8 minutes of driving... and I'd go nowhere near redline until at least 15 mins
I’m guilty of not having proper air pressure.
What are park and neutral gears in auto transmission cars? Does the high rpm also apply to auto transmission cars?
Park locks up the transmission, neutral allows the car to roll forward and many cars will creep forward in neutral. Improper use of either can damage the transmission, engaging park when rolling instead of neutral for example.
High RPM does still affect the engine although most automatics will try to protect the engine and choose a higher gear even if you manually selected a gear that was too low. So you can probably do less damage in an auto because it is intelligent but it is still something to bear in mind.
@@torquecars oh, so you're saying to switch to neutral when on a long downhill road instead of using breaks? But doesn't neutral mean that the clutch is disengaged? I don't see how that helps to manage speed on a downhill road.
No you shouldn't use neutral whilst the car is moving on a hill, the brakes will not work as the servo assist will be less effective in most cars, and the engine braking will not be there at all. You would use neutral when being towed, or pushing the car, or sometimes when rolling to a stop (but rarely), also never engage park whilst the car is moving.
@@torquecarsyeah right. If the car supports shifting manually. The instruction manual for the car usually says that is the key time to use the manual mode on automatics. Drop it a gear or two. So that the engine slows you down and/or maintains the speed without needing brakes.
If you have the old style of automatics without the manual mode. Namely the PRND21 or PRND32L or PRNDB kinds then just shift to 3 or B for some engine braking. To 2 for even more. And to 1 only if you need to pull say a boat out of the water.
Is using a lower gear rather than brakes down hill
It's not true about octanes. Higher octane rating only provides more resistance to knocking or premature detonation. Nothing to do with efficiency.
Thank you for taking the time to comment my friend. When I investigated this I found the lack of increased efficiency is only true of older engines which are not designed to utilize higher octanes and things have really moved on.
There are still quite a few TH-camrs still perpetuating this myth or presenting it as a conspiracy theory. If an engine is resisting knock more it will usually adjust to get more power from the fuel which does increase efficiency.
With the advent of increased Ethanol in non premium fuels this is making a bigger difference to fuel economy than ever before as these high ethanol fuels provide less energy so you need to burn more.
So it's something I fully investigated for myself and produced a video with my unbiased findings th-cam.com/video/QyX0LUL9bGc/w-d-xo.html it wasn't the result I was expecting at the time.
When using your engine/transmission to slow down the vehicle while having your foot off the brake and gas pedal, does it cause wear to your tranny?
If you just ease off the throttle you are putting less load on the transmission than you would be when accelerating. However if you crash down a gear or two and cause the RPM to spike as it engages you will be causing quite a bit of extra wear and tear.
that's why you buy an electric car and have no problems
I might do a similar video for EV owners, there are still some problems to look out for, but like anything if you know about them you can generally avoid them.
Another reason to get an EV.
blasphemy
EV's kill themselves. When I see an EV last 20 years going strong I'll consider it. The first model 3's are halfway there to what even the newest korean bottom of the barrel (kia and hyundai) car manufacturers have achieved.