Dude! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to make this video. I just picked up a Mo'Phatt in mint condition with the exception of this one issue. I followed your video step-by-step and it's back to working perfectly! You saved me so much time, frustration and money. I really appreciate it. Thanks again! ✌❤
Wow, I was thinking of trying to get at the encoder by disassembling the front panel from the inside. I'm glad I found your video first. I plan to try a cleaner that includes a non-conductive lubricant in the hopes of reducing the wear on the metal contacts. For example, Teslanol T6-Oscillin Contact and Tuner Spray. Thanks for the ideas!
I just did this to an E-MU Systems PK6 Mo'Phatt Keys, it took roughly about an hour, the keyboard version of the Mo'Phatt rack, you have to desolder the encoder from the top board and remove it in order to access the clips that hold the encoder together which are on the bottom of these vs the top on the rack versions, other than that, it is pretty much the same procedure to refurb the encoder, I do however clean all of the old lube / grease out of the encoder housing and off of the shaft of the encoder, and replace it with DeOxit Fader Lube, and it works great, there is also a shield that is soldered to the mainboard that helps reinforce the encoder on the board, there is a nut and a washer you have to remove from the encoder housing after you've desoldered the encoder from the board to remove that shield, now is also a good time to remove all of the old solder from the board and the encoder legs and clean up the surfaces before you apply new solder to reaffix it to the board!
Funciona ! gracias ;) Creo que el problema es el desgaste que tiene dentro la ruleta y solo es limpiarla , na mas ! Pero el cambiar el potenciometro me han dicho que no es muy dificil en los rack si sabes soldar, pero asi me vale de momento. Saludos
Any idea for a fix if one of the TRS stereo outs fade down every 2 mins or so? Like, i'll have it in audition mode and every minute to two minutes the right channel will get lower and take 5 to 10 seconds to fade back up
@@brainztain I fixed it by taking a Q tip of alcohol and cleaning out the TRS slot, there was some oil or something on the metal in the back... Now I gotto fix the wheel too thanks for the video btw im going to follow it today lol
You really just need to bend the contacts up a little. Open the encoder, bend the contacts, and close it again. That'll fix it and make it more clicky. You don't need to clean the contacts. I'm pretty sure the only thing in a 25-year-old Emu that ISN'T oxidized is the contacts in the encoder. Sanding them down is redundant - they're sanding themselves down on the wheel every time you turn it. When you spray everything down with cleaner that removes the lubrication. That makes it turn less smoothly and wear faster. If you want to clean everything you should replace the grease with some FaderLube. And like the video says if you're going to use a Q-tip or cotton ball or paper towel, you really need to make sure there's no little pieces of fuzz left in there. I've got several Emus, and I've had to fix three of the encoders, and the only time it didn't work quite right the first time was when there was a little piece of fuzz that got caught on one of the sharp contacts. You can tell you've got a foreign object floating around in the encoder if it works great for awhile then totally stops responding until you turn it the opposite direction. It stops responding when it gets caught on the contact, then it releases itself if you turn it the opposite direction.
Thanks so much. My encoder works perfectly but skips a few clicks. It doesnt hurt operation but I'm going to sell it soon and I feel this will hurt my asking prices or the sale if I mention it and I am too honest to not mention in the listing if it remains this way. Do you think just spraying a little de-oxit down the shaft could help or be a bad idea? I'm not really nuts about opening the encoder and risking to break the unit.
What could help selling it, is demo-ing the diagnostic self test. Push < and > together when turning on the module and there you are. Memorytest etc available. You can adjust the potmeters as well. I thought one was defective, but it was not well adjusted ;-)
Dude! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to make this video. I just picked up a Mo'Phatt in mint condition with the exception of this one issue. I followed your video step-by-step and it's back to working perfectly! You saved me so much time, frustration and money. I really appreciate it. Thanks again! ✌❤
Good to hear ! Keep rocking the emus 💯
Wow, I was thinking of trying to get at the encoder by disassembling the front panel from the inside. I'm glad I found your video first.
I plan to try a cleaner that includes a non-conductive lubricant in the hopes of reducing the wear on the metal contacts. For example, Teslanol T6-Oscillin Contact and Tuner Spray.
Thanks for the ideas!
Great video, man. Proteus 2000 stacked with CMPSR, ZR-76, and B-3 ROMS back to perfect condition and fully working order. Thank you so much.
Nice! 🙂
I just did this to an E-MU Systems PK6 Mo'Phatt Keys, it took roughly about an hour, the keyboard version of the Mo'Phatt rack, you have to desolder the encoder from the top board and remove it in order to access the clips that hold the encoder together which are on the bottom of these vs the top on the rack versions, other than that, it is pretty much the same procedure to refurb the encoder, I do however clean all of the old lube / grease out of the encoder housing and off of the shaft of the encoder, and replace it with DeOxit Fader Lube, and it works great, there is also a shield that is soldered to the mainboard that helps reinforce the encoder on the board, there is a nut and a washer you have to remove from the encoder housing after you've desoldered the encoder from the board to remove that shield, now is also a good time to remove all of the old solder from the board and the encoder legs and clean up the surfaces before you apply new solder to reaffix it to the board!
Thanks!! The wheel on my old faithful Proteus 2000 was jumping and now works perfectly!
Just did this today! thanks for taking the time to do this video. Knob works like new now. Big thanks
Just bent the pins up and cleaned the wheel with a bit of loo roll. Worked a treat. Nice one.
Cool!
Thanks a lot! Worked perfectly on my Orbit-3!
Love it! Such an easy job, now my p2k is more usable than ever. Thank you
GOATED
Thank you so much!! It was so painful trying to change settings with a skipping encoder haha
Funciona ! gracias ;)
Creo que el problema es el desgaste que tiene dentro la ruleta y solo es limpiarla , na mas !
Pero el cambiar el potenciometro me han dicho que no es muy dificil en los rack si sabes soldar, pero asi me vale de momento.
Saludos
Any idea for a fix if one of the TRS stereo outs fade down every 2 mins or so? Like, i'll have it in audition mode and every minute to two minutes the right channel will get lower and take 5 to 10 seconds to fade back up
Sorry, sounds more advanced
@@brainztain I fixed it by taking a Q tip of alcohol and cleaning out the TRS slot, there was some oil or something on the metal in the back... Now I gotto fix the wheel too thanks for the video btw im going to follow it today lol
@@toktok9975 wow glad you fixed it and wasn't too compacted 👍
You really just need to bend the contacts up a little. Open the encoder, bend the contacts, and close it again. That'll fix it and make it more clicky.
You don't need to clean the contacts. I'm pretty sure the only thing in a 25-year-old Emu that ISN'T oxidized is the contacts in the encoder. Sanding them down is redundant - they're sanding themselves down on the wheel every time you turn it.
When you spray everything down with cleaner that removes the lubrication. That makes it turn less smoothly and wear faster. If you want to clean everything you should replace the grease with some FaderLube. And like the video says if you're going to use a Q-tip or cotton ball or paper towel, you really need to make sure there's no little pieces of fuzz left in there. I've got several Emus, and I've had to fix three of the encoders, and the only time it didn't work quite right the first time was when there was a little piece of fuzz that got caught on one of the sharp contacts.
You can tell you've got a foreign object floating around in the encoder if it works great for awhile then totally stops responding until you turn it the opposite direction. It stops responding when it gets caught on the contact, then it releases itself if you turn it the opposite direction.
AWESOME. I was just about to do this and then saw your video. Thanks
wOw, i CAN NOT THANK YOU ENOUGH FOR THIS GREAT HOW TO...VIDEO. Of course I must use a thin grade of sandpapper. THANK YOU AGAIN. DON
ps i can also use this for my Proteus 1/r & 2/r when they need it. Thanks again. & HAPPY NEW YEAR
Thanks so much. My encoder works perfectly but skips a few clicks. It doesnt hurt operation but I'm going to sell it soon and I feel this will hurt my asking prices or the sale if I mention it and I am too honest to not mention in the listing if it remains this way. Do you think just spraying a little de-oxit down the shaft could help or be a bad idea? I'm not really nuts about opening the encoder and risking to break the unit.
I'd give it a shot, but if possible use deoxit fader, or fader lube
What could help selling it, is demo-ing the diagnostic self test. Push < and > together when turning on the module and there you are. Memorytest etc available. You can adjust the potmeters as well. I thought one was defective, but it was not well adjusted ;-)
very cool !
Works
Thank you
Emu 5000 like new after your technique 😊
Merci beaucoup
Thanks!
I wish there was a love button
Man thank you so much🙏🏻
Wow great job. Really stressed me out watching it though!