My issue is pest and critters love small seedlings and will wipe them all out overnight. I've had to sow three rounds of beans and other veggies before. The only option is sowing indoors until they are past the critical stage. Ideal is getting a crop... VS not having a crop at all 🤷🏼♀️
I start Cucumbers every year inside and have no problem after transplanting, the secret is starting 1 only in large pot 3 inch or larger and making sure you use a starting soil that will not fall apart when taking them out of the starter pot, to keep the roots intact. grow them until they have well established second leaves, then harden them off for 2 weeks. pinch off the to bottom leaves and bury them into the ground up to where the bottom leave were. Don't press down on the plants when planting, it will disrupt the roots, just lightly pack the soil around it
On starting squash and zucchini indoors... I conceptually agree that starting them outdoors is ideal. However, in my area, the squash vine borer and squash bug pressure is almost unbearable. You can spray, dust, use BT, wrap in tin foil, use netting, etc but they WILL get your plants. However, if you can get ahead of their life cycle, you may be able to get some harvest early in the season. This year I'm going to try some more vine borer resistant varieties (trombocino) and putting out some trap crops. Here's hoping it works! (Also, here's hoping my family will eat them 😂)
Oh, my leaf lettuce... i start them indoors, move to a 4 inch pot, when they get big i cut most of the leaves, eat them and then transplant outside. It works out great!
I've always started my cucumbers, squash and sunslowers inside with no issues at all. I've always had super-vigorous plants. I've tried direct sowing them, but squirrels and mice always get them.
Here in BC I like to start peas, beets & delicate lettuces inside only because the birds & bugs will decimate them as teeny seedlings in the garden.. but I wouldn't otherwise!
I completely agree, not just birds and bugs, but voles, mice, and everything else will dig up those peas, you'd be lucky to have a single one survive in my area. Charles Dowding, renowned gardening expert/author in the UK grows those (peas, beets, lettuce) and more inside in cell trays, I've done them all like he says and had spectacular results. I'm not a fan of transplanting like everyone else, because of the added time and hunching over, but you can't argue with the results.
I lived in arkansas and tried to start everything once myself. This video info matched that, but honestly from it i learned there is like a good, better, best. Not really a should or shouldnt. Now i live in alaska and am happy for the experience, cuz now i have to start everything early since the growing season is so short. Starting carrots indoors and transplanting them made them go to seed like it was their second year which was cool to find out for seed collecting! The lesson, you can do anything, and experimentation will teach you so much. The things you learn from it and play will come in handy as your life, the climate, and your growing hobby changes 😊
Strangely, while I agree with your reasoning behind these tips, I "break the rules" at times every year for specific strategic purposes. In spring (zone 7a piedmont Va) I start lettuce, beets, spinach, cukes and zukes indoors while waiting for the garden to dry out and finish warming up. Later spring succesion crops will be direct sown when conditions are more consistent for germination. I also keep a "bank" of various small seeded greens started indoors through the season to fill in gaps in the garden as they occur. I sometimes find it worth the effort to duplicate my in ground plantings with a few cell packs of the same variety as insurance against spotty germination, pest damage etc. It is extra work, but I garden fairly intensively on 1/3 acre of well prepared open field and I hate bare spots. Enjoying the conversation, no fight!
P.S. I have been gardening in this region for over 40 years so I have a good understanding of the usual timing of the seasons, and techniques to minimize potential pitfalls (transplant shock, bolting, arrested development etc.). It works for my style of gardening, and OCD😂.
Regarding corn: I had heard corn didn't like their roots disturbed but didn't have much luck direct sowing. So I made newspaper containers to plant in (small batch 30 or 40 plants). When it came time to put outside (after hardening off), I planted the entire container up to the level inside the container. Best crop I've ever had. Direct sowed last year, not much to speak of. Now to get off my a** and make more containers for this year.
I'll fight you on the cool season crops because germination at the end of summer is tricky. I start them inside, in small soil blocks and plant them out when they are quite small, 4 or so real leaves. It lets me keep them moist enough to sprout and grow, not risking a dry wind killing them.
Also important when you're waiting to finish up harvest time of one crop before planting another in it's place and running out of time to durect sow. Having transplants ready to go that are already 3 weeks in is the only way to get two crops for a lot of us
I am a novice. Last year I tried starting everything inside because I wasn't convinced I could do it. It was a confidence boost to see everything sprout, then I had to scrarmble to learn how to get the plants through summer! This year, I'm planning better. There are still some things (like Zinnias) I know I should just wait and direct sow but I love them so much, I'm growing them in a pot that I will put outdoors when the weather is right. US Zone 5, South Dakota. Love that I found your videos.
That’s fair. Even expert some years think that they should start everything from seed. It honestly goes in waves when you want to start everything indoors versus what do you just want direct show.
I sow zinnias indoors to get longer season for cut flowers. Last year I sow them mid March and some got too long while growing indoors so this year I plan on sowing them two weeks later. I absolutely loved growing zinnias and having beautiful bouquets all the time on the kitchen table!
I cant get my compost hot enough so any squash, zucchini or cumber seeds that are viable end up sprouting along with what I've planted, and I cant tell them apart! So I start them in 4 in pots and very carefully transplant them and then expect them to act sulky for a while.
the potato advice is so real. we weren't trying to grow potatoes. way back then, we thought we were composting. they all started rooting in our basement, so we dug a whole in the back the threw them in and buried them. suffice to say, we had potato plants and then harvest in the fall. go figure!
I would agree about taproots (carrots, parsnips, salsify), but would disagree about turnips or beets, as the part that we eat are hypocotyl tubers rather than true roots. Hypocotyl tubers are much more transplant friendly than true roots, and starting indoors can be a great tool for succession planters who have a quick warm-up phase. Ifeel like this is one of the few channels that would accept this nerdy comment.
Ha ha yes your comment is very well loved. There are a few people that will start the beats and turn ups indoors. One of the reasons that I really should but I’m too lazy to are birds.
I live in high altitude, and get annoying frosts almost every month, and have to cover my plants. I agree with everything except I do start summer squashes inside a few weeks early to get plenty of fruits. I sow them in 4” pots to minimize root disturbance. But our cool nights are excellent for greens.
As a wheelchair user with limited walking ability/garden access, it's much easier to seed start indoors to ensure they get enough water to get to the point they can survive through neglect outdoors with a good watering or 2. My exceptions are carrots, radishes and sunflowers.
@kariannecrysler640 I just start them in 6 cell trays from Epic Gardening with big holes in the bottom to pop out. When 3 inches tall plant directly. Of course, start them outside vs. indoors. I start several rounds to have sunflowers in succession.
I also found my Marketmore 76 cucumbers underwent transplant shock after I started them indoors. They weren't very productive and because they were weak they died from disease. Will try direct sowing this year.
I sow some salads and rucola indoors just to get some earlier salad greens. I transplant them outdoors into grow pots as soon as there's no night frosts. The balcony usually has 5 celsius degrees warmer temperature than on ground level so it's April/May when I can usually transplant cold tolerant plants. I want the balcony garden to look luscious early in the summer and start making side salads already in May. The summer is so hot on my south facing balcony that it is better growing season for the salads in the early summer. I sow indoors basically everything to get harvest quicker. This season I have another reason for trying to be "quick" in the gardening because I have a baby on it's way and I try to harvest most of the veggies before the baby is due in late September☺
Florida, US Zone 9 - My issue with things like cucumbers is not trying to get a head start on spring, we have a very long season here. My issue is more in the ability to control germination conditions. With very sandy soil and spring rains we bounce between very dry and wet and watering in-ground seeds to germinate in-ground plants can be fiddly. Starting in cell trays is possibly worth the transplant shock given the higher germination rates I see.
Interesting! Have you ever tried making also like a “gutter” when you dig a strip out and then put in peat for example seeds and cover with peat? Or that would dry out equally as quick?
Seriously, who wouldn't take every opportunity to direct sow? Makes life so much simpler. Thank you for saying so. I am a direct-sow convert. Life's too short 🌱🌱🌱
Those with a short season cannot get 2 crops per bed if they direct sow both crops. Starting in cells shaves about 4-6 weeks off depending on the crop, allowing it to mature before frost.
We grew watermelons, squash, zucchini, and cucumbers all from plants bought at a garden center. They all did fine with transplanting and grew like crazy.
Good validating info. I mostly start plants inside because I moved from zone 8 (where things grew all winter) to zone 3 (E of Edmonton) and need to see some green stuff to make me feel that spring will eventually get here!
Totally agree with you. I built a seed starting station last year and got sucked into starting too much this year. Just transplanted the lettuce outside and it's doing much better now. It's also interesting that different seed suppliers have contradictory info on seed starting vs direct sow.
One year I got spring fever in February. I started beans and peas indoors. It was months before it was warm enough to get plants outside. They lived growing up my dining room wall until they put off and died. I was 18 yrs old but still can't live that one down...
Can we just take a moment to appreciate the fact that you were gardening at 18. Most normal people were out partying. Meanwhile you’re like peas and beans! ❤️❤️❤️ soul sister
Great tips!!! The reason I start indoors is because wildlife will eat yummy fresh growth. So doing both, just in case, until I get some way to cover the plants outdoors. Also, starting lettuce indoors mid-season to replace the older plants. Much quicker. About garlic: what about the ones you can buy after it winterized?
Great vid:] I seed almost everything right into the garden. It is kind of heartbreaking to see plants wither inside. They tend to skip the veg cycle all together and head right to flower. This is a bonsai which creates very little food. I live in Canada and have tried peppers and tomatoes direct seed. Tomatoes work great but peppers seem to be tricky no matter how you handle them:]
Agree finding myself agreeing with you Lady of seince. I'm 6a Ohio and had fairly good luck with luffa Lady nothing draws pollinators better than luffa after mid summer
Glad i found you. I live in 5b Wyoming and our weather is similar to Canada. Growing veggies in a cold climate is a challenge but gorgeous flowers proliferate. Thanks for the info.
You are spot on with your assessment of vine plants. Beyond the initial comparison with the stunted transition period for transplants, seeds planted in the ground will produce a significantly more vigorous plant in the long run as they develop stronger stems and more fruit through the entire growing season.
I'm in Central AB and everything you said makes sense to me, now. I have to find your potatoes chidding video, we come from SK and have realized the growing game is so different. 👌
Must starts are peppers and tomatoes. I like to do basils as well... Holy Basil is my favorite. My do not start indoors is gonna have to be lemon balm. Last couple years I did not have much luck starting indoors. I start it outdoors in pots and it does great. This year I hope to not have any pots though so trying to find or think of permanent homes for my mints.
This year I tried out winter sowing, and I started a lot of these crops in my jugs just to see how they'd do. I even started carrots, parsnips, and beets in the jugs! I used empty toilet paper towel rolls stood up on their end, stuffed the jug with them and filled them with soil, then sowed one seed in each roll. It's actually worked really well so far--being pressed together in the jug kept the rolls from disintegrating the way they normally would. I had to be careful when removing them from the jug--cutting the jug open down the sides and picking up the rolls from the base--but they stayed together long enough for me to get them into the hole I'd dug for them. So I was able to transplant the entire core of soil with the plant inside of it without disturbing the plant at all. I did the same for my sugar snap peas. I've heard that they don't like their roots messed with either, but they're doing great. Last year I had a problem with a squirrel who saw me burying the peas I was planting, and after I left he came down and dug them up to eat them. This year I put in already partially grown plants, and the squirrels have left them alone. I will be continuing this in the future, for sure! I tried to winter sow cucumbers and honeydew, but haven't seen any growth from them yet and I'm getting nervous. The same goes for the St. John's Wort which has teeny tiny seeds, and I'm concerned that the small seeds may have rotted in the moist soil while waiting for the temperature to be warm enough to germinate. Our growing season is very short where I live (Eastern Washington), so I do anything I can to extend the growing season. I'll probably be starting some honeydew and cucumbers indoors to hedge my bets, in case the winter sown jugs never sprout. Sadly, I'm out of St. John's Wort seeds. :(
Additionally I am going to start summer squashes in paper pot like about 10 years (roots were not distributed, even through they were long and out of the pot) trying apple gourd, lauki bottle gourd) and vining gourd similar to luffa.
I live in Maine and have a pretty good handle on cooler climate veggies. I do know that the lettuces tolerate cooler weather. However , I have tried doing a container of lettuce for my kitchen, but I have used my heat mat without success. It had not occurred to me not to do this! Duh! Thanks for this video as it is always good to review to prevent mistakes. 😊
I start a lot of plants on your no start list for a fairly simple reason - the only location I have to grow in has fairly minimal sun. If we did not back up into mature deciduous forest we’d have great south/ south eastern sun exposure. During the winter when the leaves have fallen off the trees we get fantastic light. However, the trees leaf out for the same seasons I want to grow in so I realistically get 2-4 hours of direct sun that isn’t dappled or straight shaded out. But, I still manage to grow things like cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, beans and a lot of herbs which on paper I shouldn’t be able to grow. If I direct seed these plants get far too leggy in the seedling stage and then I get weak leggy plants that may or may not survive and thrive. If I start everything indoors and get strong, compact starts I am able to grow a far greater variety of healthy, productive crops. Those strong starts also help to keep pest pressure down in my garden, because weak spindly plants attract many more pests. Basically, I feel like many plants need more sunlight in the seedling stage than I can provide outside, but once established they can tolerate the lower light hours just fine. Edit to add: When I can hopefully move one day to an area with better sun exposure I have every intention of starting my lettuce, peas, cucumbers and squash in situ. So, I agree in premise with you, just not in practice!
This is my problem. I have a huge tree that takes all my sunlight in the spri g and summer. I get great sun light in winter. So I decided not to give up and just grow shade loving crops. My cukes and others don't grow as big or prolific.
@@THEIJ_85 Exactly! Although, after some experimentation with varieties I have been able to get much better yields. (Which I’m sure are still reduced from full sun yeilds, but are still gratifying because they’re better than my previous season attempts.) Overall, I look for early maturing and compact/ dwarf/ bush/ container varieties for my squash, peppers and tomatoes. For me, variety selection has really been key to a healthy and productive growing season and for me it is a fun project to slowly explore. Last year basil and tomato varieties were my focus. This year pepper, tomato, oregano, lettuce and parsley varieties are my focus!
I'm about to start my 7th year of gardening and I love that I keep learning new things every year. I'm going to take your advice & plant a couple cucumbers in 10 gallon grow bags this year instead starting in seed cells. I'm in zone 5a in NB and I already started a couple of 5 gallon buckets of potatoes indoors as an experiment (hoping for a few early lbs).. we'll see how that goes!
Thanks for confirming. I was frustrated last year with starting vining plants indoors. I do container gardening, so I might try starting them indoors in the containers, assuming I have enough space.
An actual list of her list... of Seeds Not to Start Indoors... Since there isn't a list in the video Description... For us that take screenshot reminders. Direct Sow Seeds List 1) Root vegetables (Carrots, Beets, Radishes, Turnips, etc) 2) Cold climate vegetables (Peas, Beans, Spinach, Arugula, Bok Choy, Asian Greens, etc) (Except for Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, & Cabbage due to shorter growing season) 3) Anything that Vines due to Transplant Shock (Watermelons, Pumpkins, Loofahs, Cucumbers, Melons, Winter Squashes, etc) 4) Potatoes (Cuz Duh, Does Not include Sweet Potatoes) 5) Small Seeds/Bulk Sown (her personal preference) (Lettuce, Spinach, Arugula, Swiss Chard, any Leafy Green) 6) Zucchinis (Too Prolific... Clearly hates an Abundance of Zucchini Bread... And new friends... Maybe because she's from the Barron wastelands of flat Earth and strong winds from Saskatchewan... She probably doesn't even live in Saskatoon, a moderate sized town, likely just a small village like Moosejaw... And takes her sled dogs into town to buy compost from the local shaman) 7) Corn (not Korn... Korn travels well, and... Surprisingly long shelf life... Like decades) 8) Garlic (Unless you like small cloves) (Winter sow along with peas and beans)
I’m struggling with luffa too so I’m definitely trying it outdoors after the 3days of soaking in a damp paper towel and trimming the end ever so slightly
I was toying around with the idea of planting onion sets indoors to start them off. They would take up a lot of space which is never great but wonder if the results would be better harvest wise in the end. Love the video….keep em coming
In Arizona I put my garlic in the fridge for a few weeks before I plant out around Halloween. Just doesn’t get cold enough here, lol. More seeds I have learned to never start indoors…sunflowers and zinnias. They just do so much better started outside. My snapdragons, however, are transplantation champs. I love how every species is unique. So much to learn!
Cucurbits are super easy to start indoors and transplant out... Try starting in biodegradable pots and just tear the bottom off when you transplant. No root shock and you can get them started a few weeks ahead of time. Easy peasy.
Last year, I started cucumbers from seed indoors and was quite successful. However, knowing how dramatic (awesome word to describe cucumbers by the way) they were I knew that when I transplanted it I would sacrifice the pot i had it in. I carefully cut the pot that I had it in until I got it to the final pot that it was gonna die it. And when it came to hardening off I had a fan on it on a very gentle breeze. Then I carefully took it out each day starting at 30 minutes. Then increase it by 30 minutes each day till I left it outside.
I'm starting my cucumber and similar varieties indoors to try to not attract squash bugs and cucumber beetles with the cucurbitacins. I read that seedlings are the most concentrated so I'm hoping if I plant late and start indoor I hopefully won't attract as many. PS also considering a nematode application prior to planting
I direct sew everything you mentioned to direct sew, but last year I decided to grow cucumbers on a whim when I came across pants in the nursery. I hardened them off with the rest of my flowers and they grew amazing! But I'll direct sew this year lol! Just a questing about container planting. Do potatoes actually grow well in a bucket? I've seen that done in videos but was sceptcal.
It honestly depends on where you are in the world/where the bucket is. The buckets can get warm if the outside conditions allow it & that’s causes issues.
@@GardeningInCanada ah ok. Southeast Manitoba. I just thought container planting might be an option in a yard where there isn't much area to plant in. Or more importantly where the sun is lol. I have neighbors with large trees on both the east and west side. Makes gardening tricky.
I'm gonna find out about the potatoes this year because I had some potatoes grow in my worm bins. I have trouble killing plants in the winter so I put them in a big nursery pot (7 gal maybe?). They're so leggy I don't have much hope, but maybe I'll get a few.
I have a short season in zone 4. I have successfully started things like pumpkins and corn in toilet paper tubes. It disturbs the roots very little, as long as you time it right (and the weather cooperates!😂)
Pests make sure no seedling survives in my garden, so cucs have to be transplanted in. Can we start 2 (or 3?) cucs in a pot and see which one survives transplant shock? Is this a good idea?
"Cucumbers are incredibly dramatic" lol, best line ever. I have done a test on this over two seasons and grew 3 plants started inside and 3 started from seed outside and can verify the direct sown cukes ALWAYS are healthier and more robust. I will only direct sow those forever :-)
Thanks for the info. You’re awesome! I’m so confused as to what to do right now. We have summer like temperatures now in SW Ontario. I have raised beds and the soil is ready. Should I or shouldn’t I?
I couldn't agree more about waiting on zucchini. I wont ever start them inside again, they still exploded as usual even direct seeding. I do have a corn variety that says transplants well on the package. I give about 3 weeks indoors for half of my crop and then direct sow the other half 3 weeks after. I use soil blocks though which probably helps the roots transition easier!
Homemade paper pots worked well with the luffas sweet pea vines and cardinal climbers, tried direct sowing luffas last year, a definite no go in 5a. I am completely with you on cucumbers, melons and squash, my only problem last year were the damn squirrels, have to protect them better this year. Question! I have some stored potatoes that have sprouted from last year, I know to remove the pale sprouts, but my question is are those potatoes still good for seed potatoes this year. Stay Well!!!
I’m in Minneapolis, Minnesota (recently updated to zone 5a), and I start peas inside. I put them an inch apart in a large grow bag (12” across, but I fold down the sides so it’s only 6” deep). I germinate under grow lights without a heat mat, but with a dome over them initially to retain moisture. When they’re an inch or two tall, I carefully scoop them out with my fingers to transplant, disturbing the roots as little as possible. I do this because I end up with much higher germination rates and yields. No idea what I’m doing wrong when I try to direct sow, but do what works for you, right? I also grow my lettuce inside in grow bags without heat, and simply put the bags on the deck in favorable conditions. Or sometimes I grow in winter and their whole life is spent inside. In the spring I grow inside to save space in my raised beds. Might as well put things that need more root space than lettuce in that outdoor space. Also lettuce just doesn’t do nearly as well in my raised beds. Sun and heat arrive too quickly these days, so the lettuce tends to turn bitter quickly and bolt. Again, I might be doing something wrong outside, so I stick with what works for me.
Im honestly going to try and start a bunch of these inside this year in soil blocks because our friendly neighborhood murder of crows love to steal seeds! They picked out almost every bean and pea seed last summer and about 50% of my squash seeds! So i plant to start them in 2 inch soil blocks with only enough time for them to germinate and grow ever so slightly before transplanting Might be a make work project but so is planting seeds to feed the crows. Hahah
Any advice on what to do with excess seeds? Like how to store them and for how long. I always feel bad for only needing just a few seeds out of a big packette
The book I am (not) writing is "Seeds to start Outdoors which Slugs hate." Unfortunately the book is only half a page long so that's the problem. I have got a sort of handle on this courtesy of Charles Dowding (UK) and his wet cardboard method which is where slugs sleep in the day after their night time feasts on my plants. But there are so many hundreds. Otherwise I would rarely sow seeds inside, direct sowing has all the benefits.
Yup, some do better than others. I do start some of the ones on your list in pots for transplant, mostly because of needing to have produce for the farmers market early and consistently before the typical garden would kick in here. It is a lot of work, no argument. One example, though, is people want LOCAL sweet corn for the 4th of July. Unless someone transplants that or has greenhouse space for it, that's just not gonna happen here. Have done it, have had it produce well. Just a matter of what it's worth to me.
Would planting vines in peat pots help with shock. I tried to plant melons from seed and they didn’t even sprout. I tried cucumbers and they did just fine that same year. This year I am trying watermelon in larger peat pots and hoping to plant them pot and all into some sort of self watering container or grow bag in a kiddie pool. What are my chances of success? Local area central Wisconsin.
Personally I seed indoor any vegetable roots in a deep tray and I plant the small plant with its clod of soil so the plant has no replanting stress. Besides I can plant them in a tick mulch because it is big enough to have its leaves about the mulch.
Newspaper pots let you start plants with sensitive roots inside. When it's time to plant, just plant the whole pot. It will break down completely by the end of summer. I've had lots of success with this and it lets me get a jump on anything I need to.
Hey GIC, for the overwintering vegetables you mentioned (garlic, beans etc), can that still work in container gardens? I just ask as I've always been told that container plants on a balcony (zone 5) will not survive our winters, so that is why I always start these plants indoors, so I can safely put them through stratification without killing them off. Thanks so much!
Years ago I had left peas in the ground and they did came up nicely following spring. This year I grow a row of peas in October and till about a couple of weeks ago they were still there. Question: can we prep soil and leave beans (French or bush) in the ground for spring growing. Trying mucuna pruriens for second time (didn’t had a proper garden then land even now)
I will disagree at least in my circumstance for spinach. But it's just starting, I don't let them get very big. The reason is that it's hard to get them started outside, and my cold weather for spinach in 5b doesn't last long. So I just start them and then direct plant them out as Tiny seedlings. Another thing I'll disagree with is melons. But I start them in about 4-in pots about a week before they go out. It gets them to sprout but they don't get too big and the Roots haven't reached the edge of the pot yet.
In a hot spring season i germinate beans inside in paper towels. I start cucumbers inside. I use paper/peat pots and carefully tear away. No prblem. I start lettuce, kale, cabbage, celery inside. And of course tomatoes. Also started onoions in January. I'm in zone 4a. I started pansies, snapdragons, English Daisys, Foxglove in January, inside under lights. I will move them to the greenhouse and use geat at night soon. I made pits thisvyear from those horrible paper bags we buy atvyhe grocery stores. I even bought 30 extra. I can make 8 -3" pots from each bag. Thats less than 2 cents each, and it doesnt take very long. They are sturdier than the ones made from newspaper. My cucumbers got the willt last year, so I will choose seeds that have resistance this year.
Re: giant pumpkins. I know we can’t get as big as in the south but we can absolutely get 300lb pumpkins here. There was a dude in Lloyd had the Canadian record! I had a coworker talking about growing monsters with her Dad in Moose Jaw. I think it’s more about babying the plant and the cultivar than time requirements.
I plant garlic in the fall, and most of the time it works, it's always hardneck. But, I have place whole heads into plastic water bottles with a hole cut in the side to accommodate the head. They root quickly and lots of roots, then I pull them apart and plant them and I've always had very good luck with this method for those years when 1) the cold was too intense and they froze= ROTTED or like last Spring, my fall-planted garlic just rotted. If I start anything but tomatoes indoors, I soak peat pots in hot water for hours, then plant in them. When they're saturated the roots have a much easier time poking through and they don't get transplant shock if they're hardened off properly. Thanks for this great video!
Our vicious birds, squirrels, etc. rip out tender (apparently irresistible) seedlings from the garden, so either I start them indoors, or have to fight the elements to keep the baby plants covered outside (but uncover them on warm days so they don’t get too warm)… its just easier to start them indoors until they are a less attractive size (to wildlife)
Not really sure if this is "disagreeing" since, I actually grow lettuce, spinach, and arugula completely indoors. Not "start" then transplant. I grow all three all winter indoors. I do plant from SEED directly (probably about 2 to 4 weeks from now!) As for summer squash? I think I do them indoors, in about a month, and then, direct seed outdoors, a couple months later, with the intent to get a second growth/harvest, by later summer.
OK that’s fair. If you’re an indoor gardener totally makes sense. We grow on your green inside. I think we can all agree. Indoor grown greens and herbs. Have way less bug and dirt issues
WWAAAAAAAY less bug pressure! @@GardeningInCanada I do grow outside, in spring/summer/fall, but over winter? Nothing better than a few steps down to basement for fresh herbs and salad makings! PLUS, NOT a fan of spending $$$ at the grocery IF I can grow it myself.
My issue is pest and critters love small seedlings and will wipe them all out overnight. I've had to sow three rounds of beans and other veggies before. The only option is sowing indoors until they are past the critical stage. Ideal is getting a crop... VS not having a crop at all 🤷🏼♀️
Oh no!
Thank you for validating the FACT that cucumbers are "incredibly dramatic", because you're spot on!!
I start Cucumbers every year inside and have no problem after transplanting, the secret is starting 1 only in large pot 3 inch or larger and making sure you use a starting soil that will not fall apart when taking them out of the starter pot, to keep the roots intact. grow them until they have well established second leaves, then harden them off for 2 weeks. pinch off the to bottom leaves and bury them into the ground up to where the bottom leave were. Don't press down on the plants when planting, it will disrupt the roots, just lightly pack the soil around it
On starting squash and zucchini indoors... I conceptually agree that starting them outdoors is ideal. However, in my area, the squash vine borer and squash bug pressure is almost unbearable. You can spray, dust, use BT, wrap in tin foil, use netting, etc but they WILL get your plants. However, if you can get ahead of their life cycle, you may be able to get some harvest early in the season.
This year I'm going to try some more vine borer resistant varieties (trombocino) and putting out some trap crops. Here's hoping it works! (Also, here's hoping my family will eat them 😂)
Oh, my leaf lettuce... i start them indoors, move to a 4 inch pot, when they get big i cut most of the leaves, eat them and then transplant outside. It works out great!
That's a great idea!
I've always started my cucumbers, squash and sunslowers inside with no issues at all. I've always had super-vigorous plants.
I've tried direct sowing them, but squirrels and mice always get them.
Here in BC I like to start peas, beets & delicate lettuces inside only because the birds & bugs will decimate them as teeny seedlings in the garden.. but I wouldn't otherwise!
Beets work well as transfers despite being root veggies
I completely agree, not just birds and bugs, but voles, mice, and everything else will dig up those peas, you'd be lucky to have a single one survive in my area. Charles Dowding, renowned gardening expert/author in the UK grows those (peas, beets, lettuce) and more inside in cell trays, I've done them all like he says and had spectacular results. I'm not a fan of transplanting like everyone else, because of the added time and hunching over, but you can't argue with the results.
Same, newborns in my garden have it rough, just too many things eat them.
I lived in arkansas and tried to start everything once myself. This video info matched that, but honestly from it i learned there is like a good, better, best. Not really a should or shouldnt. Now i live in alaska and am happy for the experience, cuz now i have to start everything early since the growing season is so short. Starting carrots indoors and transplanting them made them go to seed like it was their second year which was cool to find out for seed collecting! The lesson, you can do anything, and experimentation will teach you so much. The things you learn from it and play will come in handy as your life, the climate, and your growing hobby changes 😊
Strangely, while I agree with your reasoning behind these tips, I "break the rules" at times every year for specific strategic purposes. In spring (zone 7a piedmont Va) I start lettuce, beets, spinach, cukes and zukes indoors while waiting for the garden to dry out and finish warming up. Later spring succesion crops will be direct sown when conditions are more consistent for germination. I also keep a "bank" of various small seeded greens started indoors through the season to fill in gaps in the garden as they occur. I sometimes find it worth the effort to duplicate my in ground plantings with a few cell packs of the same variety as insurance against spotty germination, pest damage etc. It is extra work, but I garden fairly intensively on 1/3 acre of well prepared open field and I hate bare spots. Enjoying the conversation, no fight!
P.S. I have been gardening in this region for over 40 years so I have a good understanding of the usual timing of the seasons, and techniques to minimize potential pitfalls (transplant shock, bolting, arrested development etc.). It works for my style of gardening, and OCD😂.
I start beets indoors. It's easy and effective and speeds up time till harvest (5 weeks).
Sounds great!
Excellent 🎉🎉🎉 I subscribed to your channel and gave a like 👍 Thank you for sharing 😁🙏
Thank you so much 👍
@@GardeningInCanada you're very welcome 😁
Regarding corn: I had heard corn didn't like their roots disturbed but didn't have much luck direct sowing. So I made newspaper containers to plant in (small batch 30 or 40 plants). When it came time to put outside (after hardening off), I planted the entire container up to the level inside the container. Best crop I've ever had. Direct sowed last year, not much to speak of. Now to get off my a** and make more containers for this year.
Literally 100s of billions of corn plants get direct seeded every year and they get 12 feet tall with 7 foot roots.
I'll fight you on the cool season crops because germination at the end of summer is tricky. I start them inside, in small soil blocks and plant them out when they are quite small, 4 or so real leaves. It lets me keep them moist enough to sprout and grow, not risking a dry wind killing them.
Also important when you're waiting to finish up harvest time of one crop before planting another in it's place and running out of time to durect sow. Having transplants ready to go that are already 3 weeks in is the only way to get two crops for a lot of us
5:11 I like starting a few spinach/ lettuces etc inside so I can use them as "row markers" 🤣🤣🤭
That's clever!
I am a novice. Last year I tried starting everything inside because I wasn't convinced I could do it. It was a confidence boost to see everything sprout, then I had to scrarmble to learn how to get the plants through summer! This year, I'm planning better. There are still some things (like Zinnias) I know I should just wait and direct sow but I love them so much, I'm growing them in a pot that I will put outdoors when the weather is right. US Zone 5, South Dakota. Love that I found your videos.
That’s fair. Even expert some years think that they should start everything from seed. It honestly goes in waves when you want to start everything indoors versus what do you just want direct show.
I sow zinnias indoors to get longer season for cut flowers. Last year I sow them mid March and some got too long while growing indoors so this year I plan on sowing them two weeks later. I absolutely loved growing zinnias and having beautiful bouquets all the time on the kitchen table!
I cant get my compost hot enough so any squash, zucchini or cumber seeds that are viable end up sprouting along with what I've planted, and I cant tell them apart! So I start them in 4 in pots and very carefully transplant them and then expect them to act sulky for a while.
the potato advice is so real. we weren't trying to grow potatoes. way back then, we thought we were composting. they all started rooting in our basement, so we dug a whole in the back the threw them in and buried them. suffice to say, we had potato plants and then harvest in the fall. go figure!
I would agree about taproots (carrots, parsnips, salsify), but would disagree about turnips or beets, as the part that we eat are hypocotyl tubers rather than true roots. Hypocotyl tubers are much more transplant friendly than true roots, and starting indoors can be a great tool for succession planters who have a quick warm-up phase.
Ifeel like this is one of the few channels that would accept this nerdy comment.
Ha ha yes your comment is very well loved. There are a few people that will start the beats and turn ups indoors. One of the reasons that I really should but I’m too lazy to are birds.
I am planning to start some beets early as well in an attempt to get two crops. My wife loves beets!
@@GardeningInCanada Turn up the beat, before planting the beets and turnips.
I live in high altitude, and get annoying frosts almost every month, and have to cover my plants. I agree with everything except I do start summer squashes inside a few weeks early to get plenty of fruits. I sow them in 4” pots to minimize root disturbance. But our cool nights are excellent for greens.
As a wheelchair user with limited walking ability/garden access, it's much easier to seed start indoors to ensure they get enough water to get to the point they can survive through neglect outdoors with a good watering or 2. My exceptions are carrots, radishes and sunflowers.
That’s a great point!
I’m looking forward to watching your videos now that I found your channel. Like you I’m in Zone 3 here in northern Minnesota. Thanks!
Welcome aboard!
Sunflowers 🌻 have always done best directly sown for me.
This is definitely correct in my experience.
Same here!
I have rodents that eat my seeds, so unfortunately, I must transplant. But they still do great though
@@kittiew260 any tips on how you do it? (Soil block, container, jiffy pot, etc)
@kariannecrysler640 I just start them in 6 cell trays from Epic Gardening with big holes in the bottom to pop out. When 3 inches tall plant directly. Of course, start them outside vs. indoors. I start several rounds to have sunflowers in succession.
I also found my Marketmore 76 cucumbers underwent transplant shock after I started them indoors. They weren't very productive and because they were weak they died from disease.
Will try direct sowing this year.
Flea beetles….my nemesis. 😢
Actual worst
I sow some salads and rucola indoors just to get some earlier salad greens. I transplant them outdoors into grow pots as soon as there's no night frosts. The balcony usually has 5 celsius degrees warmer temperature than on ground level so it's April/May when I can usually transplant cold tolerant plants. I want the balcony garden to look luscious early in the summer and start making side salads already in May. The summer is so hot on my south facing balcony that it is better growing season for the salads in the early summer. I sow indoors basically everything to get harvest quicker. This season I have another reason for trying to be "quick" in the gardening because I have a baby on it's way and I try to harvest most of the veggies before the baby is due in late September☺
I've always started my Beets in cells. Zone 3 here. Success.
Florida, US Zone 9 - My issue with things like cucumbers is not trying to get a head start on spring, we have a very long season here. My issue is more in the ability to control germination conditions. With very sandy soil and spring rains we bounce between very dry and wet and watering in-ground seeds to germinate in-ground plants can be fiddly. Starting in cell trays is possibly worth the transplant shock given the higher germination rates I see.
Interesting! Have you ever tried making also like a “gutter” when you dig a strip out and then put in peat for example seeds and cover with peat? Or that would dry out equally as quick?
I do leafy greens in the house to get early greens.
Seriously, who wouldn't take every opportunity to direct sow? Makes life so much simpler. Thank you for saying so. I am a direct-sow convert. Life's too short 🌱🌱🌱
I’m the same as you 😅
Those with a short season cannot get 2 crops per bed if they direct sow both crops. Starting in cells shaves about 4-6 weeks off depending on the crop, allowing it to mature before frost.
Life is too short to lose all you seedlings to pests and critters lol
We had cold temps in Edmonton almost until July, that leaves no time to grow some things
We grew watermelons, squash, zucchini, and cucumbers all from plants bought at a garden center. They all did fine with transplanting and grew like crazy.
are u in canada? and what time of year did you plant the watermelons? that’s awesome!! i’m trying watermelon this year here in alberta
@@jennahunter2968 I'm in the United States, zone 6
@@jennahunter2968 oh forgot to say when we planted . It was early June.
Good validating info. I mostly start plants inside because I moved from zone 8 (where things grew all winter) to zone 3 (E of Edmonton) and need to see some green stuff to make me feel that spring will eventually get here!
Totally agree with you. I built a seed starting station last year and got sucked into starting too much this year. Just transplanted the lettuce outside and it's doing much better now. It's also interesting that different seed suppliers have contradictory info on seed starting vs direct sow.
One year I got spring fever in February. I started beans and peas indoors. It was months before it was warm enough to get plants outside. They lived growing up my dining room wall until they put off and died. I was 18 yrs old but still can't live that one down...
Can we just take a moment to appreciate the fact that you were gardening at 18. Most normal people were out partying. Meanwhile you’re like peas and beans! ❤️❤️❤️ soul sister
Great tips!!! The reason I start indoors is because wildlife will eat yummy fresh growth. So doing both, just in case, until I get some way to cover the plants outdoors. Also, starting lettuce indoors mid-season to replace the older plants. Much quicker. About garlic: what about the ones you can buy after it winterized?
Very true!
I agree with you, I always start these plants out in garden, even with my short growing season
Great vid:] I seed almost everything right into the garden. It is kind of heartbreaking to see plants wither inside. They tend to skip the veg cycle all together and head right to flower. This is a bonsai which creates very little food. I live in Canada and have tried peppers and tomatoes direct seed. Tomatoes work great but peppers seem to be tricky no matter how you handle them:]
You have peaked my interest with the Luffa plant.
Dang it, wish I had seen this before I planted my zucchini! Live and learn. Thank you for the video!
You will do fine still
I’m considering starting dahlia seeds indoors. I have my tubors in crates but have started experimenting with seeds too.
Yes, you should start waking them up indoors, then repot when the eyes start producing. Pinch at around 6-8 inches high! Only plant after last frost.
Agree finding myself agreeing with you Lady of seince.
I'm 6a Ohio and had fairly good luck with luffa Lady nothing draws pollinators better than luffa after mid summer
Glad i found you. I live in 5b Wyoming and our weather is similar to Canada. Growing veggies in a cold climate is a challenge but gorgeous flowers proliferate. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for subbing! Welcome to the GIC crew!
You are spot on with your assessment of vine plants. Beyond the initial comparison with the stunted transition period for transplants, seeds planted in the ground will produce a significantly more vigorous plant in the long run as they develop stronger stems and more fruit through the entire growing season.
Some people can do it. I personally do not have the desire 😅
I'm in Central AB and everything you said makes sense to me, now. I have to find your potatoes chidding video, we come from SK and have realized the growing game is so different. 👌
Awesome! Thank you!
Question can we compost seeds catalogs? Thank you
Yea, the ink on those is soy based. Same with newspaper. The shiny stuff you can’t yhough
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I will pre soak my corn seeds until they start to spout, and then I plant the sprout ed curnnel. It has worked well for me.
Nice!
Must starts are peppers and tomatoes. I like to do basils as well... Holy Basil is my favorite.
My do not start indoors is gonna have to be lemon balm. Last couple years I did not have much luck starting indoors. I start it outdoors in pots and it does great. This year I hope to not have any pots though so trying to find or think of permanent homes for my mints.
This year I tried out winter sowing, and I started a lot of these crops in my jugs just to see how they'd do. I even started carrots, parsnips, and beets in the jugs! I used empty toilet paper towel rolls stood up on their end, stuffed the jug with them and filled them with soil, then sowed one seed in each roll. It's actually worked really well so far--being pressed together in the jug kept the rolls from disintegrating the way they normally would. I had to be careful when removing them from the jug--cutting the jug open down the sides and picking up the rolls from the base--but they stayed together long enough for me to get them into the hole I'd dug for them. So I was able to transplant the entire core of soil with the plant inside of it without disturbing the plant at all.
I did the same for my sugar snap peas. I've heard that they don't like their roots messed with either, but they're doing great. Last year I had a problem with a squirrel who saw me burying the peas I was planting, and after I left he came down and dug them up to eat them. This year I put in already partially grown plants, and the squirrels have left them alone. I will be continuing this in the future, for sure!
I tried to winter sow cucumbers and honeydew, but haven't seen any growth from them yet and I'm getting nervous. The same goes for the St. John's Wort which has teeny tiny seeds, and I'm concerned that the small seeds may have rotted in the moist soil while waiting for the temperature to be warm enough to germinate. Our growing season is very short where I live (Eastern Washington), so I do anything I can to extend the growing season. I'll probably be starting some honeydew and cucumbers indoors to hedge my bets, in case the winter sown jugs never sprout. Sadly, I'm out of St. John's Wort seeds. :(
Love your information! Makes so much sense! Thank You!💕
You are so welcome!
Please walk us thru your loofah growing journey!
Additionally
I am going to start summer squashes in paper pot like about 10 years (roots were not distributed, even through they were long and out of the pot) trying apple gourd, lauki bottle gourd) and vining gourd similar to luffa.
I live in Maine and have a pretty good handle on cooler climate veggies. I do know that the lettuces tolerate cooler weather. However , I have tried doing a container of lettuce for my kitchen, but I have used my heat mat without success. It had not occurred to me not to do this! Duh! Thanks for this video as it is always good to review to prevent mistakes. 😊
I start a lot of plants on your no start list for a fairly simple reason - the only location I have to grow in has fairly minimal sun.
If we did not back up into mature deciduous forest we’d have great south/ south eastern sun exposure. During the winter when the leaves have fallen off the trees we get fantastic light. However, the trees leaf out for the same seasons I want to grow in so I realistically get 2-4 hours of direct sun that isn’t dappled or straight shaded out.
But, I still manage to grow things like cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, beans and a lot of herbs which on paper I shouldn’t be able to grow. If I direct seed these plants get far too leggy in the seedling stage and then I get weak leggy plants that may or may not survive and thrive. If I start everything indoors and get strong, compact starts I am able to grow a far greater variety of healthy, productive crops. Those strong starts also help to keep pest pressure down in my garden, because weak spindly plants attract many more pests.
Basically, I feel like many plants need more sunlight in the seedling stage than I can provide outside, but once established they can tolerate the lower light hours just fine.
Edit to add: When I can hopefully move one day to an area with better sun exposure I have every intention of starting my lettuce, peas, cucumbers and squash in situ. So, I agree in premise with you, just not in practice!
This is my problem. I have a huge tree that takes all my sunlight in the spri g and summer. I get great sun light in winter. So I decided not to give up and just grow shade loving crops. My cukes and others don't grow as big or prolific.
great post!
@@THEIJ_85 Exactly! Although, after some experimentation with varieties I have been able to get much better yields. (Which I’m sure are still reduced from full sun yeilds, but are still gratifying because they’re better than my previous season attempts.)
Overall, I look for early maturing and compact/ dwarf/ bush/ container varieties for my squash, peppers and tomatoes. For me, variety selection has really been key to a healthy and productive growing season and for me it is a fun project to slowly explore. Last year basil and tomato varieties were my focus. This year pepper, tomato, oregano, lettuce and parsley varieties are my focus!
so what is the light cycle indoor if you only have 4-5h of light max
Wonderful information that I can use this spring in my garden.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm about to start my 7th year of gardening and I love that I keep learning new things every year. I'm going to take your advice & plant a couple cucumbers in 10 gallon grow bags this year instead starting in seed cells. I'm in zone 5a in NB and I already started a couple of 5 gallon buckets of potatoes indoors as an experiment (hoping for a few early lbs).. we'll see how that goes!
Wonderful!
Thank s , will give it a try !
Thanks for confirming. I was frustrated last year with starting vining plants indoors. I do container gardening, so I might try starting them indoors in the containers, assuming I have enough space.
You can do it!
An actual list of her list... of Seeds Not to Start Indoors... Since there isn't a list in the video Description... For us that take screenshot reminders.
Direct Sow Seeds List
1) Root vegetables
(Carrots, Beets, Radishes, Turnips, etc)
2) Cold climate vegetables
(Peas, Beans, Spinach, Arugula, Bok Choy, Asian Greens, etc)
(Except for Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, & Cabbage due to shorter growing season)
3) Anything that Vines due to Transplant Shock
(Watermelons, Pumpkins, Loofahs, Cucumbers, Melons, Winter Squashes, etc)
4) Potatoes
(Cuz Duh, Does Not include Sweet Potatoes)
5) Small Seeds/Bulk Sown (her personal preference)
(Lettuce, Spinach, Arugula, Swiss Chard, any Leafy Green)
6) Zucchinis
(Too Prolific... Clearly hates an Abundance of Zucchini Bread... And new friends... Maybe because she's from the Barron wastelands of flat Earth and strong winds from Saskatchewan... She probably doesn't even live in Saskatoon, a moderate sized town, likely just a small village like Moosejaw... And takes her sled dogs into town to buy compost from the local shaman)
7) Corn
(not Korn... Korn travels well, and... Surprisingly long shelf life... Like decades)
8) Garlic
(Unless you like small cloves)
(Winter sow along with peas and beans)
I’m struggling with luffa too so I’m definitely trying it outdoors after the 3days of soaking in a damp paper towel and trimming the end ever so slightly
Best of luck! Report back
I was toying around with the idea of planting onion sets indoors to start them off. They would take up a lot of space which is never great but wonder if the results would be better harvest wise in the end. Love the video….keep em coming
They probably would transplant okay. Particularly if you don’t tissue them to much
Great information; thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
In Arizona I put my garlic in the fridge for a few weeks before I plant out around Halloween. Just doesn’t get cold enough here, lol. More seeds I have learned to never start indoors…sunflowers and zinnias. They just do so much better started outside. My snapdragons, however, are transplantation champs. I love how every species is unique. So much to learn!
Cucurbits are super easy to start indoors and transplant out... Try starting in biodegradable pots and just tear the bottom off when you transplant. No root shock and you can get them started a few weeks ahead of time. Easy peasy.
Last year, I started cucumbers from seed indoors and was quite successful. However, knowing how dramatic (awesome word to describe cucumbers by the way) they were I knew that when I transplanted it I would sacrifice the pot i had it in. I carefully cut the pot that I had it in until I got it to the final pot that it was gonna die it. And when it came to hardening off I had a fan on it on a very gentle breeze. Then I carefully took it out each day starting at 30 minutes. Then increase it by 30 minutes each day till I left it outside.
I'm starting my cucumber and similar varieties indoors to try to not attract squash bugs and cucumber beetles with the cucurbitacins.
I read that seedlings are the most concentrated so I'm hoping if I plant late and start indoor I hopefully won't attract as many.
PS also considering a nematode application prior to planting
I direct sew everything you mentioned to direct sew, but last year I decided to grow cucumbers on a whim when I came across pants in the nursery. I hardened them off with the rest of my flowers and they grew amazing! But I'll direct sew this year lol! Just a questing about container planting. Do potatoes actually grow well in a bucket? I've seen that done in videos but was sceptcal.
It honestly depends on where you are in the world/where the bucket is. The buckets can get warm if the outside conditions allow it & that’s causes issues.
@@GardeningInCanada ah ok. Southeast Manitoba. I just thought container planting might be an option in a yard where there isn't much area to plant in. Or more importantly where the sun is lol. I have neighbors with large trees on both the east and west side. Makes gardening tricky.
I'm gonna find out about the potatoes this year because I had some potatoes grow in my worm bins. I have trouble killing plants in the winter so I put them in a big nursery pot (7 gal maybe?). They're so leggy I don't have much hope, but maybe I'll get a few.
I have a short season in zone 4. I have successfully started things like pumpkins and corn in toilet paper tubes. It disturbs the roots very little, as long as you time it right (and the weather cooperates!😂)
I have started corn and sunflower seeds in those red solo cups many times. Germinated and transplanted with no problems.
Pests make sure no seedling survives in my garden, so cucs have to be transplanted in. Can we start 2 (or 3?) cucs in a pot and see which one survives transplant shock? Is this a good idea?
i wanted to try growing edamame (zone 3/4) but did i miss the boat if beans need to be started in the fall? any hope on starting them indoors??
"Cucumbers are incredibly dramatic" lol, best line ever. I have done a test on this over two seasons and grew 3 plants started inside and 3 started from seed outside and can verify the direct sown cukes ALWAYS are healthier and more robust. I will only direct sow those forever :-)
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the info. You’re awesome!
I’m so confused as to what to do right now. We have summer like temperatures now in SW Ontario. I have raised beds and the soil is ready. Should I or shouldn’t I?
Happy to help!
Winter temps looking to come back this week.
I like to plant garlic in around my strawberries to avoid bugs so if I get garlic is a bonus but not too concerned lol
I couldn't agree more about waiting on zucchini. I wont ever start them inside again, they still exploded as usual even direct seeding. I do have a corn variety that says transplants well on the package. I give about 3 weeks indoors for half of my crop and then direct sow the other half 3 weeks after. I use soil blocks though which probably helps the roots transition easier!
Homemade paper pots worked well with the luffas sweet pea vines and cardinal climbers, tried direct sowing luffas last year, a definite no go in 5a.
I am completely with you on cucumbers, melons and squash, my only problem last year were the damn squirrels, have to protect them better this year.
Question! I have some stored potatoes that have sprouted from last year, I know to remove the pale sprouts, but my question is are those potatoes still good for seed potatoes this year.
Stay Well!!!
Yea. Those are infamous for working well
I’m in Minneapolis, Minnesota (recently updated to zone 5a), and I start peas inside. I put them an inch apart in a large grow bag (12” across, but I fold down the sides so it’s only 6” deep). I germinate under grow lights without a heat mat, but with a dome over them initially to retain moisture. When they’re an inch or two tall, I carefully scoop them out with my fingers to transplant, disturbing the roots as little as possible. I do this because I end up with much higher germination rates and yields. No idea what I’m doing wrong when I try to direct sow, but do what works for you, right?
I also grow my lettuce inside in grow bags without heat, and simply put the bags on the deck in favorable conditions. Or sometimes I grow in winter and their whole life is spent inside. In the spring I grow inside to save space in my raised beds. Might as well put things that need more root space than lettuce in that outdoor space. Also lettuce just doesn’t do nearly as well in my raised beds. Sun and heat arrive too quickly these days, so the lettuce tends to turn bitter quickly and bolt. Again, I might be doing something wrong outside, so I stick with what works for me.
What about starting some of those seeds, say leafy greens, under a removal cold frame?
That I am down with and usually do once I can get into that garden
Im honestly going to try and start a bunch of these inside this year in soil blocks because our friendly neighborhood murder of crows love to steal seeds! They picked out almost every bean and pea seed last summer and about 50% of my squash seeds!
So i plant to start them in 2 inch soil blocks with only enough time for them to germinate and grow ever so slightly before transplanting
Might be a make work project but so is planting seeds to feed the crows. Hahah
The world is ending on the dramatic cucumber
That is a good one
Hahaha the greatest debate
Any advice on what to do with excess seeds? Like how to store them and for how long. I always feel bad for only needing just a few seeds out of a big packette
I have a video on that! th-cam.com/video/9JM1Q3d19g8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qTmxkXoUJmSUSo8f
@@GardeningInCanada thank you so much!
I start melons and cucumbers just like I do tomatoes depending on how miserable spring is being. You just can't leave them inside longer than 4 weeks
The book I am (not) writing is "Seeds to start Outdoors which Slugs hate." Unfortunately the book is only half a page long so that's the problem. I have got a sort of handle on this courtesy of Charles Dowding (UK) and his wet cardboard method which is where slugs sleep in the day after their night time feasts on my plants. But there are so many hundreds. Otherwise I would rarely sow seeds inside, direct sowing has all the benefits.
I can’t get beets to grow when I direct sow but have better luck staring indoors. I’m in Windsor way down southern Ontario
Is it because of the birdies?
I never thought of that maybe I will cover them with cloth thank you!
Yup, some do better than others. I do start some of the ones on your list in pots for transplant, mostly because of needing to have produce for the farmers market early and consistently before the typical garden would kick in here. It is a lot of work, no argument. One example, though, is people want LOCAL sweet corn for the 4th of July. Unless someone transplants that or has greenhouse space for it, that's just not gonna happen here. Have done it, have had it produce well. Just a matter of what it's worth to me.
Would planting vines in peat pots help with shock. I tried to plant melons from seed and they didn’t even sprout. I tried cucumbers and they did just fine that same year. This year I am trying watermelon in larger peat pots and hoping to plant them pot and all into some sort of self watering container or grow bag in a kiddie pool. What are my chances of success? Local area central Wisconsin.
Yes! Absolutely it does
Personally I seed indoor any vegetable roots in a deep tray and I plant the small plant with its clod of soil so the plant has no replanting stress. Besides I can plant them in a tick mulch because it is big enough to have its leaves about the mulch.
I didn't know you can plant peas and beans in the fall. Will it survive -47C in alberta during winter?
Yes! Absolutely
Newspaper pots let you start plants with sensitive roots inside. When it's time to plant, just plant the whole pot. It will break down completely by the end of summer. I've had lots of success with this and it lets me get a jump on anything I need to.
Yes! Great point. My grandma used to fold them by hand. You can ask me how to do it now it’s totally forgotten.
I make my own newspaper pots. Follow the incredibly simple origami box directions.
The one root vegitable excception you didn't mention is onion. Everyone I know starts them indoors,
Ooooo yes good catch
Anything that vines? Not possible to grow many varieties of vine (indeterminate) tomatoes in many areas without starting them inside.
Eg Black Krim has a grow period of 90 days in weather above 15 degrees Celsius.
Flowers are okay. I don’t have issue with them
@@GardeningInCanada flowers? The topic was tomatoes 🍅 :)
Hey GIC, for the overwintering vegetables you mentioned (garlic, beans etc), can that still work in container gardens? I just ask as I've always been told that container plants on a balcony (zone 5) will not survive our winters, so that is why I always start these plants indoors, so I can safely put them through stratification without killing them off. Thanks so much!
The only way would be if you could shelter the containers somehow. But it’s always going to be a risk unfortunately.
Do you know how to start a moon flower seed?
Are those the vine ones?
Is it possible to grow those bok chois and others you mention indoors completely. So you get two or three crops of them.
Only Swiss chard is better for me inside maybe it is a moisture management thing or a pest thing but I find my seedlings die very easily outdoors
Years ago I had left peas in the ground and they did came up nicely following spring. This year I grow a row of peas in October and till about a couple of weeks ago they were still there.
Question: can we prep soil and leave beans (French or bush) in the ground for spring growing.
Trying mucuna pruriens for second time (didn’t had a proper garden then land even now)
I will disagree at least in my circumstance for spinach. But it's just starting, I don't let them get very big. The reason is that it's hard to get them started outside, and my cold weather for spinach in 5b doesn't last long. So I just start them and then direct plant them out as Tiny seedlings. Another thing I'll disagree with is melons. But I start them in about 4-in pots about a week before they go out. It gets them to sprout but they don't get too big and the Roots haven't reached the edge of the pot yet.
That’s fair! If you enjoy your method continue onward
In a hot spring season i germinate beans inside in paper towels. I start cucumbers inside. I use paper/peat pots and carefully tear away. No prblem.
I start lettuce, kale, cabbage, celery inside.
And of course tomatoes. Also started onoions in January. I'm in zone 4a.
I started pansies, snapdragons, English Daisys, Foxglove in January, inside under lights. I will move them to the greenhouse and use geat at night soon.
I made pits thisvyear from those horrible paper bags we buy atvyhe grocery stores. I even bought 30 extra. I can make 8 -3" pots from each bag. Thats less than 2 cents each, and it doesnt take very long. They are sturdier than the ones made from newspaper.
My cucumbers got the willt last year, so I will choose seeds that have resistance this year.
Yes the cucumbers in the peat pots do help forsure
Re: giant pumpkins. I know we can’t get as big as in the south but we can absolutely get 300lb pumpkins here. There was a dude in Lloyd had the Canadian record!
I had a coworker talking about growing monsters with her Dad in Moose Jaw.
I think it’s more about babying the plant and the cultivar than time requirements.
Nice!! Did he have a greenhouse
I plant garlic in the fall, and most of the time it works, it's always hardneck. But, I have place whole heads into plastic water bottles with a hole cut in the side to accommodate the head. They root quickly and lots of roots, then I pull them apart and plant them and I've always had very good luck with this method for those years when 1) the cold was too intense and they froze= ROTTED or like last Spring, my fall-planted garlic just rotted. If I start anything but tomatoes indoors, I soak peat pots in hot water for hours, then plant in them. When they're saturated the roots have a much easier time poking through and they don't get transplant shock if they're hardened off properly. Thanks for this great video!
That’s awesome!
Our vicious birds, squirrels, etc. rip out tender (apparently irresistible) seedlings from the garden, so either I start them indoors, or have to fight the elements to keep the baby plants covered outside (but uncover them on warm days so they don’t get too warm)… its just easier to start them indoors until they are a less attractive size (to wildlife)
Not really sure if this is "disagreeing" since, I actually grow lettuce, spinach, and arugula completely indoors. Not "start" then transplant. I grow all three all winter indoors. I do plant from SEED directly (probably about 2 to 4 weeks from now!)
As for summer squash? I think I do them indoors, in about a month, and then, direct seed outdoors, a couple months later, with the intent to get a second growth/harvest, by later summer.
OK that’s fair. If you’re an indoor gardener totally makes sense. We grow on your green inside. I think we can all agree. Indoor grown greens and herbs. Have way less bug and dirt issues
WWAAAAAAAY less bug pressure! @@GardeningInCanada I do grow outside, in spring/summer/fall, but over winter? Nothing better than a few steps down to basement for fresh herbs and salad makings! PLUS, NOT a fan of spending $$$ at the grocery IF I can grow it myself.