2zz-ge Forged Engine Build - Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- The first instalment of finally putting my Lotus Exige engine back together. Darton sleeves, 9:1 Wiseco pistons, MonkeyWrenchRacing forged rods with ARP2000 bolts, ACL main and big end race bearings, ARP main and head studs, Supertech valves, springs and retainers + a TVS1320 supercharger!
Great video, about to do an engine rebuild on my Exige. Thanks for sharing this!
The block of 2zzge seems very robust from factory mate!
Great video! Where can I find the cam bearings and piston rod bearings and piston rings?
What was the issue with the oil squirter interference? Great series of videos!
The Wiseco pistons have longer skirts than OEM, so the squirter was contacting the skirt a few degrees before full rotation! I ended up giving all of the squirters a little bend in my vice to give them clearance! Madness!
@@track__dan8755 Good effort, and all good info. Keep up the updates :)
@@k.townend thanks for the feedback. More updates coming soon. Currently deliberating over a dry sump setup to unlock the potential of a sequential in the future!
@@track__dan8755 Great stuff, I window-shopped a few dry sump setups years ago... eye watering costs!
Awesome, series! I am thinking about buying a 2000-2007 model an issues I as a new owner should look for? How does the transmission hold up with more power? Have you ever rebuilt the trans?
Thanks! You looking at a Lotus, or something else with the 2zzge in it?
The stock transmission is a known weak point of the Toyota setup in the Lotus platform. Running around 270hp (smaller pulley, map, injectors) I broke 3rd gear and final drive of the stock setup, and replaced them with Jubu racing gears. After my engine build (now running 350hp ish) I broke the Jubu racing final drive too! Now moved to a quaife sequential setup which so far has been sublime! Most of my mileage is track, and most at the Nurburgring, so not the kindest environment!
@track__dan8755 I'm looking at a lotus. Thinking from yr 2005-2007 to be honest. I just want to plan ahead and see cost for stock motor build compared to swap. However, the other concern is the transmission. What is your experience with the axels? Do they hold up?
I am still running standard axles - I use heavy duty and vented cv boots, and repack the cvs relatively often. So far, they have been ok! Fingers crossed!
@track__dan8755 thanks for the recommendation for the transmission and diff. I appreciate that. The final drive is important to note. I was thinking of this as my personal car and not tracking it consistently but I would love it to get up and go when I need it
Hi Dan,
Nice video, congrats!
My question is little boring, but what engine oil you use for track and what you recommend for daily drive? I use Sustina 0W50 (Made in Japan) what can you say for it?
Thanks! I use Millers Oils CFS 10w-60 Competition Full Synthetic Engine Oil.
I thought you were supposed to make sure absolutely no oil was supposed to be on the other side of the bearings?
Yep, agreed! My error!
Did it spin the bearings? It might one day!
@@kylegoldston I don’t know if it matters all that much because I’d imagine with pressurized oil and no real seal some gets behind the bearing.
i spun cylinder 1 bearing and now im having a loud ticking noice from the valve train after a rebuild you i cant find a solid answer for the clearance its not for vroom vroom go fast lol its for work
Why didn't you decide to go with a close deck design?
There are very limited options for closed deck 2zz-ges, especially in the UK.
I see that the torque for the head bolts is 26ft lbs and then additional 180 degrees, can anyone confirm? and do you do the 180 degrees all in one turn or in multiple stages? any help is appreciated
Sorry, can’t help here. I use ARP head studs which have a different tightening procedure (since they are reusable unlike the factory bolts).
I would like to be corrected but I personally have never lubricated under side of shells. Align lube holes yes. Measure bores yes. Is it a Toyota recommendation.
You are correct - another lesson I learnt too late - but she sat for a fair few weeks before first start and I've just done 200 miles of running in and so far, so good! 🤞But yes, for future ref, insert the shells dry, and only lube the inner faces.
@@track__dan8755 So glad you got away with it. good luck with the car. all the best.
@@MrThewillows thanks! Fingers crossed I properly got away with it - only hard miles will tell!
@@track__dan8755 it’s only a matter of time till you spin a bearing.
@@djmystery7235 I'm fairly sure under standard use you get oil seepage behind the shells anyway - when you remove oil bearings, they are not still dry are they?
Are you using the BOE Rev 400+ kit from Phil? If so I strongly recommend monkey wrench stage 3 cams. And...I cannot stress this enough, get a dyno tune, no exception. Ask me why in private.
Yes. Tuned by scs (the manufacturers of my ecu), but broke a piston ring in very early life. Any tips, please dm me on instrgam. Track__dan (double underscore)
I plan on buying the REV400 kit next with front HEX & forged pistons/ Built head. Where I live there are 0 dynos so sadly I have to make due with a generic map. I wish I could upgrade my cams but I would need a dyno tune. Guess for now an AFR gauge will suffice to monitor.
What you do with the oil squatter? Did you had to replace them?
No, just put a slight bend in them so they are more central in the bore and miss the skirts - was a two stage process as the clearance is much less when the engine is revving vs. when turning by hand (I had a little rattle when I first started it). All solved now though.
@@track__dan8755 did you remove the valve guides when you did the build for the cylinder head?
@@weliftnation2418 I didn't, no. The engine only had 47k miles on it.
Sleeved?
Yep! Darton sleeves
@@track__dan8755 generally is reliable the 2zzge mate? Well maintained of course, and no track day use only straight line ....thanks!
@@DimoS... I think so. At 50k miles of abuse, mine showed no wear at all.
@@track__dan8755 some have a problem with wear intake cam did you have a problem? some have more than 200k miles without wear cam and some even have less than 100k with issues ...very strange
@Dimos P I had wear at 50k, but that was following a number of hard track miles running 15psi of boost with the tvs1320!
You dont measure for bearing to journal clearance or crush before assembly? That's a step that has cost me a ton of time and money in the past. You can trust your bearing manufacturer and 99% of the time all will be fine, but one bad shell will ruin more than your day. Just saying...
I agree quality control these days is so much better than 30-40 years ago, but still, when you have so much time invested and a part worth a couple dollars can destroy it in seconds, I prefer the piece of mind of due diligence. Elise is not the hardest car to get the motor out of, but it's not the easiest either.
Maybe I gave the ACL qc too much credit here. I measured my bearing clearance on the last set of bearings (same spec), 500miles ago wihb plastigauge and all was good. I didn't account for differences in bearing thicknesses!
@@track__dan8755 ACL is a good company. I use them. But ACL hasnt measured your individual crank journals to a 10 thousandths of an inch where your clearance specification lives. I used a Fowler bore guage and a gauge block calibration set to calibrate my bore gauge to withing 50 microns. The same block can be used to calibrate your micrometer.
As important as oil clearance is bearing crush is what prevents a bearing spin that can occur even when sufficient oil is always available. Wow, I need a better way to say that.
Ok I'll try this...
If you dont have proper bearing crush the shells will be able to spin even when they have proper oiling.
The shells have that little notch that is supposed to prevent that but if they have even a small amount of wiggle room they can be hammered off.
You may also want to take a look at Steve Morris engines videos where he explains that the bores in the block for the crank journals are not typically round in a static situation so the measurements should be made in more than one location.
@@3dw3dw very interesting information, thanks for this! As you can tell, I'm new to building engines, appreciate all the advice!
@@track__dan8755 as per your request I messaged you on insta.
All my reading up has stated that you can not re bore a 2zz engine ???
You cannot bore the stock liners as you take the mmc coating off, but you can bore them and then install ductile steel sleeves, which also allows you to use any aftermarket piston too.
What pistons are these?