I didn't have to wait. I just let it drain for a while and the only waiting time there was was to do the math of fl to quarts. That took a few minutes. Poured in the quarts afterward.
if you arent driving there is no problem. Without fluid, the transmission cant shift anyway because there will be no hydraulics. The only thing id say to be careful about is the "temperature" -- looks like they're using the engine temperature as their guide which is okish but better is to actually take the car out for an actual drive to warm up the tranny
Hi, thanks for the nice video as it helps me change my friend's tranny fluid. For us, DIY folks without the thousand-dollar scanner tool why do you need to check the temperature as long as your using the correct fluid and putting in the correct amount via the dipstick????
yep i know im late but heres an answer anyway: moving parts in enclosed fluid baths always generate pressure and heat. Therefore the level of fluid inside will vary. That's why they want to take into account the temperature at which youre checking the level. Just looking at the dip stick you can see how much the level can change. Remember: engine temperature does not necessarily correspond directly to tranny temp. The safest way to do this service is to measure the fluid coming out, put back almost as much back in. Then take a short drive to warm up the new fluid and check the level again afterwards. Top it off if needed. The most annoying thing to do is have to jack the car up again to drain excess fluid
I'm completely confused now. Some people on the Internet say that most cars don't need to change the transmission oil. There is a difference in viscosity between new transmission oil and old transmission oil. If all the transmission oil is changed at once, it may cause damage to the transmission. Can anyone help?
lifetime fluid is a myth. fluid is a couple of bucks and time, and new tranny is loads more. fluid cheap new tranny expensive same goes with frequent oil changes (every 5k)
If it hasn’t been changed by the 30k miles mark or at least by the 60k-80k it will do more damage. If you have a car with low miles, once it hits 30k, keep the fluid fresh and transmission flush. Once it reaches 60k, do a fluid change, once it hits 90k, do a fluid change once it hits 120k do another flush. Essentially, do a fluid change every 30k miles to keep it fresh
There is. You have to take out the trans oil pan and it is located in there. When you buy the filter, it should come with a gasket so use that to replace the original.
Why didn't you disconnect the lower line from the Transmission cooler and have the transmission pump out the fluid from the whole system including the torque converter.. Unhook, start vehicle, continue topping up the fluid until the clean stuff comes out of the disconnected line? Seems much more efficeient than fill, dump, fill, dump..
Have you checked the alternator? It could be switched up with a carburetor for more fluid airflow through the shift column. Then, by process of convection, you will maintain pressure throughout the drive terminal, providing the drive terminal is centrally located UNDER the main pressure valve caddy corner to the secondary valves in the rear, which may or may not be eliminated entirely.
Looks like the hydraulic flexible gear coupling wasn’t engaged with the high traction hydrostatic compactor causing the cylinder axle manifold to dislodge the high-pressure deuterium fusion reactor.
@@slowgoat6089 I figured this too but then upon draining the sub surface mount potentiometer I realized the reactive, inductive substrate filaments were failing to discharge the differential gear ratio velocity fluid It's been my experience that when you experience these malfunctions, bias voltage at the pentode tube drops to null creating a friction reset of the canister valve bleeder reactor. Any advice at this point? I'm perplexed to say the least. Thanks in advance.
I had 100 fl oz come out, 3.1 QTS. I put in 3 and a hair of a 4th one. Transmission shifts great. 234,118 miles!
Thank you so much brother.
Good stuff! Also, your Toyota timing belt water pump change video was legendary.
Thanks Todd!
After draining how long should one wait before adding the new oil and also how long before it’s drivable?
I didn't have to wait. I just let it drain for a while and the only waiting time there was was to do the math of fl to quarts. That took a few minutes. Poured in the quarts afterward.
That fluid was nasty and at 70k miles it didn't look right. I wonder if someone dropped oil in there by mistake.
Should😂 I do it bymyself you are giving me courage
Yes you should. It’s even easier than changing oil since there’s no filter to mess with.
So do you run the car with no trans fluid before adding fluid?
of course not !
Yeah..... I was wondering the same thing, because if you were to actually follow the video step by step, it shows exactly that.
if you arent driving there is no problem. Without fluid, the transmission cant shift anyway because there will be no hydraulics. The only thing id say to be careful about is the "temperature" -- looks like they're using the engine temperature as their guide which is okish but better is to actually take the car out for an actual drive to warm up the tranny
Hi, thanks for the nice video as it helps me change my friend's tranny fluid. For us, DIY folks without the thousand-dollar scanner tool why do you need to check the temperature as long as your using the correct fluid and putting in the correct amount via the dipstick????
yep i know im late but heres an answer anyway: moving parts in enclosed fluid baths always generate pressure and heat. Therefore the level of fluid inside will vary. That's why they want to take into account the temperature at which youre checking the level. Just looking at the dip stick you can see how much the level can change. Remember: engine temperature does not necessarily correspond directly to tranny temp. The safest way to do this service is to measure the fluid coming out, put back almost as much back in. Then take a short drive to warm up the new fluid and check the level again afterwards. Top it off if needed. The most annoying thing to do is have to jack the car up again to drain excess fluid
Question what kinda transmission fluid? Does it have to be toyota oem?
Thanks in advance
Always use OEM fluid when it comes to automatic/manual trans fluid or power steering fluid.
@@krishaley5502 manual transmissions don't need oem fluid really. They are much less complicated than automatics.
I'm completely confused now. Some people on the Internet say that most cars don't need to change the transmission oil. There is a difference in viscosity between new transmission oil and old transmission oil. If all the transmission oil is changed at once, it may cause damage to the transmission. Can anyone help?
Change your fluid.
lifetime fluid is a myth.
fluid is a couple of bucks and time,
and new tranny is loads more.
fluid cheap
new tranny expensive
same goes with frequent oil changes (every 5k)
If it hasn’t been changed by the 30k miles mark or at least by the 60k-80k it will do more damage.
If you have a car with low miles, once it hits 30k, keep the fluid fresh and transmission flush. Once it reaches 60k, do a fluid change, once it hits 90k, do a fluid change once it hits 120k do another flush.
Essentially, do a fluid change every 30k miles to keep it fresh
Why not change the filter
not required
It has a screen not a filter
So there's no trans filter on these cars?
There is. You have to take out the trans oil pan and it is located in there. When you buy the filter, it should come with a gasket so use that to replace the original.
Why didn't you disconnect the lower line from the Transmission cooler and have the transmission pump out the fluid from the whole system including the torque converter.. Unhook, start vehicle, continue topping up the fluid until the clean stuff comes out of the disconnected line? Seems much more efficeient than fill, dump, fill, dump..
Toyotas are just mechanic delight. Wait until you work on European and American vehicles.
Service that battery
This video is about service transmission fluid. Not about the battery. There lot of videos about service battery
Have you checked the alternator? It could be switched up with a carburetor for more fluid airflow through the shift column.
Then, by process of convection, you will maintain pressure throughout the drive terminal, providing the drive terminal is centrally located UNDER the main pressure valve caddy corner to the secondary valves in the rear, which may or may not be eliminated entirely.
You forgot to advise adding more stern to shock ratio grease. The pinion wheels have constant friction from the ball fluid, pin drains.
Looks like the hydraulic flexible gear coupling wasn’t engaged with the high traction hydrostatic compactor causing the cylinder axle manifold to dislodge the high-pressure deuterium fusion reactor.
@@slowgoat6089 Get some Tritium and giver the ol switcheroo.
Works every time.
@@slowgoat6089 I figured this too but then upon draining the sub surface mount potentiometer I realized the reactive, inductive substrate filaments were failing to discharge the differential gear ratio velocity fluid
It's been my experience that when you experience these malfunctions, bias voltage at the pentode tube drops to null creating a friction reset of the canister valve bleeder reactor. Any advice at this point? I'm perplexed to say the least. Thanks in advance.
And you call yourselves skateboard mechanics?
Meh.