Here is an amazon link to the lights used in the video: amzn.to/3AR6vx3 Here is a link to the same lights on the Hykolity website: www.hykolity.com/collections/featured-collection/products/led-ufo-high-bay-light-5000k-2-pack?variant=43773951705305 Check out more of our Saw Mill videos here: th-cam.com/play/PLmYnhJtNUq7cxcDizOh4LbhabyvbU1uAN.html Rockhill Farm is a daily equipment and rural living vlog. We mainly focus on tractors and working outdoors. I really appreciate you taking time to watch this video. If you enjoy this type of content Check out some of the following links to support our channel. If you are interested in a rock Hill Farms T-shirt check out our merch store rockhill-farm.creator-spring.com/listing/rockhill-farm-logo Please subscribe to our channel here: th-cam.com/users/Rockhillfarmandhomes Follow on Facebook at facebook.com/Rock-Hill-Farm-102050688356056/ You can now support the channel by buying us a coffee at the following link: www.buymeacoffee.com/rockhillfarm
The lights are great ! Being an electrical contractor for the past 38 years I have learned the impotance of flexability. With your ceilng grid you can "Plug and play " , its a beauty Brock ! Make it safe ,make sure your grounds are all connected, and your buiding has a copper grounding system ( Bond the bldg steel, to earth ground ) also refer to the inverer instructions regarding grounding . Also, one of the 1st edicts in the National Electrical Code is that, all work SHALL be neat and workman like...... pc
There's an inexpensive tool made for cutting armor cladding. It's basically a little hand operated saw blade that has a gripper and the proper spacing for making the cuts cleanly. After you cut the cladding you're supposed to put a small plastic bushing into the cladding so it can't ever cut into the insulation.
You bend the mc cable where you want to cut the armor unravel it a little bit with both hands exposing a single ribbon cut that tight with a pair of diagonal cutters and slip off the rest then to cut the plastic easy just run it alongside the cut edge of the MC cable it'll rip that plastic right off and you have to have to have to use redheads if you're not using redheads that wire is going to vibrate against that metal edge over time and short
I got one of those for my students to try out in my first level electrical shop class. They broke the little blade in about 15 minutes. 🙄 We went back to the traditional method for small armored stuff - crack, untwist, snip with sidecutters. 😁
I think I might have tried wiring up 3 on one side and checking it at night, settling on 6 total fixtures. That's 117,000L. You said they were 5000L, but they're 5000k, or daylight temperature. Cool white 4100k all the way to 6500k are good temps for working. Nice job, guys. That's safe and secure lighting. Your future's so bright, ya gotta wear shades. ;)
Commercial electrician for 22 years here and ill just list what i saw . 1. bracket - could've used eye bolt and rod couplings 2. connectors were for n/m cable (romex) 3.straps wrong size - they make smaller ones or for your case would've used "mineralac" conduit hanger type for m/c cable (3/8) 4.stripping outer jacket wrong and way too short- they make a special tool (roto-zip) or you can use a pair of side or b/x cutters to snip "ridge" then twist excess off , also by code you must leave at least 6-8" of wire out of box for makeup 5.plug end directly on m/c - although it works , plug ends are meant for flexible cord 6. portable solar panels - again , although it works , those panels aren't meant for permanent installs , being left out in the elements will cause them to break down faster 7.grounding grounding grounding - gotta make sure grounding is there otherwise if you happen to touch the "hot" wire and are touching any metal or the neutral at the same time , the system will see you as another load and keep pushing voltage and can cause serious injury or death .
Since it's battery powered, I think you should have wired some way of dimmer on them if they are capable. That will make them more efficient and longer lasting (heat wise). Love the output, great project!
I think it turned out great cause the more light the more better!! If you only had four lights in the building you would have more shadows to deal with
When the weather warms up, every bug within sight of that building will want to be in there if it's lit up plenty like that at night, and soon the spiders would follow them. Also if that conduit isn't tucked away, birds might be tempted to nest in there too. So you may need to plan some countermeasures for those things at some point.
Yup, those loose dangling cable drops look like bird roost like spots huh? Tiny gaps in the breakouts I'd silicone up to prevent insects and spiders living in there.
Brock, Never take those lights down. My little machine shop is 25 x 25 with an 8 1/2 foot ceiling. I have Barrina lights which are 4 footers, single tube that put out 4000 lumens @ 6000K bright white. I put up 72 of them which only draws 288 watts total. I'm NOT ever taking any down. I can see everywhere & will never need a flashlight inside again. Great job on your lights. They are perfect.
Howdy Brock! Yeah those are pretty impressive! I agree... looks like 4 or 5 would have been plenty. That is the nice thing about having 'plug and play' lights... you can move them pretty easily. I replaced all my 4 bulb florescent light fixtures in my little shop with those $20 3 foot LED shop lights from Sam's and holy Toledo! At least 50% brighter! Really highlights my mistakes when I make them... lol. Well done and thanks for sharing 🤠
I suspect the specs for 10 lights mean you are near zero chance of ever working in your own shadow etc. Likely more than most need, unless you are doing filming for a TV series pretending you are on a sunny beach😂
I don't think so. They engineered it for basic work lighting, more than likely to OSHA standards,for a factory floor. I wouldn't want any less. But, you know opinions..... 😂😂
I never bought the special cable cutter tool. I always just bend the mc cable till it comes apart where it's bent. With practice, you can be pretty accurate in getting the length correct. After getting the length right a little, trimming the conduit to remove burrs and adding the anti short bushing, the right box connector and you're good to go. The box connector you showed were incorrect should've been for mc type cable. It may or may not work out for you though. I like those lights they certainly are bright enough.
Great work, tons of light! I noticed the same company makes 200 watt versions too. You probably have enough solar input but it would be nice to have more backup battery. Alas, the expense of solar is always the batteries unfortunately.
There is a special tool for that type of cable that clamps onto it and has a crank that turns a little cutting wheel. We always called it "mc-cable" and the tool a "mc cable cutter". When you use it to cut the sheath, the excess slides right off. Source: Electrician :P
First of all let me say WOW! I wish that we had this type of lighting back in the 1950's - the 70's when I was growing up on a farm in our Q style "Barn / work shop ". As far as the installation is concerned, in the early 60's my dad and uncle wired the barn for lights using the same wiring system without the plugs. It lasted into the 2010's and worked without a problem. The farm was soled and the barn was used as a construction office while the land was developed. What, in God's name, more can you ask from this type of wiring?
Nice job. I was a little concerned with you working on the middle of the night on tall ladders. I have fallen off of a ladder and broke my wrist. You where much higher. I'm glad nothing bad happened.
I'd want rubber grommets in that wall, where the cables for the solar goes through on the side of the wall. Protect those cables from flapping around in the wind which likely will cause the wall to wear through the insulation on your solar power cables.
To cut the metal loom, hacksaw at about 90° mostly through the shield. Them garb on both sides of the cut and twist back and forth until the rest breaks. You can dress the end with a fine file so it is not sharp.
Nice shop and the lights are awesome. 1500 watts is equivalent to a dryer running. Your solar generator is doing a good job of it. I would suggest a couple of aluminum framed panels permanently mounted. Panels are cheap. I built a 3 panel pole mount out of an old C-band satellite mount. Those portable panel are never gonna last long term. I would use bulkhead MC4 connectors to pass thru your building wall. Completely waterproof pass thru. Thanks for the video. Liked and subscribed.
You might want to look at a WiFi lighting controller so you can turn on just the lights you need/want. Think about permanent install of some panels a bigger battery, unless you plan on hooking electricity from the pole to the hut. Other than that, great job!
i like to bend the BX and pop the winding apart then snip off with side cutters... Then you just pull off the casing without having to unravel much of it... Important to prepare the end and make certain there is no really sharp edges use the short stops.
think about adding dimmers? you have them on sep circuits - you can always add some small led lower on the hut - the efficiency of the led is great - you will figure out the ideal setup as you continue and finish construction - going with lighting overkill is no sin, it is wise over provisioning - a couple solar panels will keep battery topped up - the led lights should last 20 yrs+
In retrospect, would you have taken the opportunity to wire in dimmers? Or is the ability to only have some of the lights on, adequate for toning it down?
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of eye protection when using power tools. I have seen so many eye injuries resulting from a piece of metal getting into the eye - often causing permanent blindness. It's not worth it for vanity or laziness. About a year ago, a good friend of mine was using a circular saw when the blade shattered. He was sprayed with shrapnel on his face and chest. The eye protection he was wearing was peppered with tiny metal particles that would have been in his eye if he had not been wearing it. The worst injury was to his hand. He now has a permanent 7 inch Nike swoosh shaped scar on his hand and permanent nerve damage...
You did alright for "shadetree electricians". The device to split the cable is called a "roto-split". You should have stripped them back about twice as long and used an anti-short bushing. It looks like you used 1-hole straps meant for 1/2 conduit, instead of 3/8 straps that would have been tight. Yiu could bend the straps pretty easily to fit in those tight spots. Ideally, yiu would put lock washers on the nuts and secured the safety strap to a different bolt. Anyway, that sounds like a lot but you should be safe with how it is now. Worst case scenario is you blowing up you lights/battery if it ever shorts out, which is not likely.
Great effort you put into it but first think is you used wrong connector It’s not used for mc wire it’s actually used for romex You should use bushing most call it red head To strip the wire you should just break the armor by bending it 180 degrees then you can cut it with any available tool Then use red head to prevent short circuit and use squeeze connector for mc wire You should also strip enough wire so it’s at least 6 in from the back of the box Ground wire is important before you connect to device you need to bond it with the box too I like to use larger boxes for more space and easier access cost is very similar The connector you used they are ok for the cord that comes from the light Also using solar I would use 12v batteries and solar panels and remove drivers from the lights This way it’s more efficient Using inverter there is list of energy If this was intended just for lighting than wiring would be much simpler and cheaper by keeping everything everything low voltage Of course distance of wiring is important dealing with dc power Hope this helps you in the future projects saves you money improves quality of your work Wish you good luck with everything you do
Why the Hell didn't you hook up the dimmer circuit? Dimming those LED will extend their lifetimes enormously. The way you have it hooked up, you can reduce the number of lamps you run, but they will always run at full power.
I need that power source you got. I watch Josh with Stoney ridge farmer and he’s got me really thinking about more solar power usage. less bills to pay.
I have had hykolity lights in my steel 60’x30’ building for six years. The only issue is with my outside night activated led I have had to replace it twice . I realized it is the sensor not the led.
Um my friend has a trailer with a solar panel system on it he uses on his farm , you might find the same voltage and watts as those panels you have and replace them with the others and put them on a trailer that way you can move them around when you need to and if you need power any place else on your property just hook up the trailer and there you go.
I got solar street lights around my house. There so bright. I don't need lights to walk around in the house during the night. Cause of there light shinning threw the windows. Last month we had a hail storm and knock 3 of them out Now idk what to do? Why Replace them? For hail the knock them out again. I dearly love them. In a power outage there nice to have! They have paid for themselves already, But they don't last in a hail storm
yeah it's called an MC cutter but if you don't have one you can always use your wire Dykes and cut one little section of that sleeve and Slide the whole bed off you don't have to unwind it around the wire you just go to the spot where you want it to cut at and you take your wire Dykes and yeah snip it right there and you unscrew it half a turn and it'll slide right off then you got these little things little red caps that you put on the end and tea abrasion cap it wraps around the wires slides in behind the metal conduit flex metal conduit the MC cutter makes it really easy cuz it just slices one nice little piece leaves no birds you twisted half a turn and you slide off the end then you put one of those little red caps on there to keep it abrasion from happening from the metal to the wire you have to do that you probably didn't do that on any one of your connections
Man that's bright... guess you'll be spending alot on sunscreen now lol As for the solar panels I'd just run some wooden stakes through the carrying handles.
People have mentioned it already. BUT you really need to use BX Electrical Cable Protective Sleeves when using BX wire. It will direct short over time. Basic wiring 101
A new subscriber here. The only thing "wrong" is, lol, there ain't a building like that on my property! Wishing you many fun & productive years in your new workshop! Looking forward to more videos.
How come you have closed of the Quonset hut or at least one side and put in a concrete floor to make it an more comfortable space to work in especially in the winter.
Kinda late now but you should have gotten you some dimmable lights. That way you can dim them and still have lights across the entire space. May not be an issue tho if you just want light where you are working. I have a 40 foot geodesic dome im lighting for my shop. Ceiling is 26 feet high. I plan to use five higher power (200W+) lights with dimmer. Tell us about you metal building. Im wanting to add something like that to my property for storage? Thanks for the info!
That’s why you cover bright lights indoors with a diffusing material… takes the center brightness and distributes it… and the other rays 😂 Crystal works best but acrylics and silicone also disperse without blocking much. And don’t smash so easily
I just bought the cub cadet cc800 version of this last week and I love it. Great video and commentary, love the slow mo Mechanical p0rn money shots. naughty grass domination 😂. Jokes aside, good stuff. Subscribed 👍🏾
Should have used 1/2" instead of the 3/4" for the straps and should have used MC connectors and not EMT connectors at the boxes. The 1/2" straps will fit in that tighter area where the 3/4" are just too big. But for someone that does not really know what they are doing, it came out pretty good. FYI: If you bend the MC enough it will break apart, then use your side cutters to cut off what you do not want. Rule of thump 6-8". A lot quicker than unwinding it.
How have they lasted? I bought a different Chinese made one and it stopped working after about eight months. I wonder if it's because of the high temps and very low temps.
Wow thats bright, do you really need ALL the lights all the time? You could split them to light up some and some not and/or wire them for the dimmer too, you’ll have more time from your batteries. If you make a frame try to make it swivel to face the sun at different times Nice job.
But there some bad things about solar power. 1 is night time. 2 cloudy days. 3 is Hail beat on the solar cells > I got a Quonset Hut building about the same size or bigger I love them 👍👍
I don't think your estimator took into account the reflectivity of your walls. While this may decrease over time with oxidation 3 to 4 lights hung high center should be enough.
Remove those panels ... they are not designed for all day exposition to sunlight. Use regular panels that will surive 15-25+ years outside. Do not use 10 lights .. only 6 and keep the others as spares cause some will fail.
Nice video. I've ordered 8 for less than $300 with 10% off code. How are they holding up? The Hyperlite company was more expensive and these look of equal quality so I pulled the trigger.
The safety strap/lanyard probably should not have used the same plate as the light. Should be independent of the mounting for the light itself. That way, if the mounting plate were to fail, you’d still be safe. Great project though!
Indeed, if you just put up more of the hooks that are supposed to keep the wire in place to other nearby bolts, you could run the safety cable to them, and not have to change much at all. Just another hour up on the ladder.
Ty is an excellent video. We will not do what you are doing unless we do ...lol. It's called at your own risk and parel. Keep it coming, keep on keeping on trucking... Sub for a while. God-bless you and your family and friends.
Here is an amazon link to the lights used in the video: amzn.to/3AR6vx3
Here is a link to the same lights on the Hykolity website: www.hykolity.com/collections/featured-collection/products/led-ufo-high-bay-light-5000k-2-pack?variant=43773951705305
Check out more of our Saw Mill videos here:
th-cam.com/play/PLmYnhJtNUq7cxcDizOh4LbhabyvbU1uAN.html
Rockhill Farm is a daily equipment and rural living vlog. We mainly focus on tractors and working outdoors.
I really appreciate you taking time to watch this video. If you enjoy this type of content Check out some of the following links to support our channel.
If you are interested in a rock Hill Farms T-shirt check out our merch store
rockhill-farm.creator-spring.com/listing/rockhill-farm-logo
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The lights are great ! Being an electrical contractor for the past 38 years I have learned the impotance of flexability. With your ceilng grid you can "Plug and play " , its a beauty Brock ! Make it safe ,make sure your grounds are all connected, and your buiding has a copper grounding system ( Bond the bldg steel, to earth ground ) also refer to the inverer instructions regarding grounding .
Also, one of the 1st edicts in the National Electrical Code is that, all work SHALL be neat and workman like......
pc
BX in a open ended shed? Come'on, man.
Every now and then I occasionally find someone who can put some light on the subject.
You'll look cool day AND night wearing your shades!
There's an inexpensive tool made for cutting armor cladding. It's basically a little hand operated saw blade that has a gripper and the proper spacing for making the cuts cleanly. After you cut the cladding you're supposed to put a small plastic bushing into the cladding so it can't ever cut into the insulation.
Thanks for sharing
You bend the mc cable where you want to cut the armor unravel it a little bit with both hands exposing a single ribbon cut that tight with a pair of diagonal cutters and slip off the rest then to cut the plastic easy just run it alongside the cut edge of the MC cable it'll rip that plastic right off and you have to have to have to use redheads if you're not using redheads that wire is going to vibrate against that metal edge over time and short
The youngins really are amazed when the old guy breaks out the roto-zip tool for MC/BX.
I got one of those for my students to try out in my first level electrical shop class. They broke the little blade in about 15 minutes. 🙄 We went back to the traditional method for small armored stuff - crack, untwist, snip with sidecutters. 😁
Our warehouse replaced our entire lighting systems with some of those styles. Work great.
I think NASA just saw your hut from space. Holy crap that is bright!
I think I might have tried wiring up 3 on one side and checking it at night, settling on 6 total fixtures. That's 117,000L. You said they were 5000L, but they're 5000k, or daylight temperature. Cool white 4100k all the way to 6500k are good temps for working.
Nice job, guys. That's safe and secure lighting.
Your future's so bright, ya gotta wear shades. ;)
Commercial electrician for 22 years here and ill just list what i saw .
1. bracket - could've used eye bolt and rod couplings
2. connectors were for n/m cable (romex)
3.straps wrong size - they make smaller ones or for your case would've used "mineralac" conduit hanger type for m/c cable (3/8)
4.stripping outer jacket wrong and way too short- they make a special tool (roto-zip) or you can use a pair of side or b/x cutters to snip "ridge" then twist excess off , also by code you must leave at least 6-8" of wire out of box for makeup
5.plug end directly on m/c - although it works , plug ends are meant for flexible cord
6. portable solar panels - again , although it works , those panels aren't meant for permanent installs , being left out in the elements will cause them to break down faster
7.grounding grounding grounding - gotta make sure grounding is there otherwise if you happen to touch the "hot" wire and are touching any metal or the neutral at the same time , the system will see you as another load and keep pushing voltage and can cause serious injury or death .
Looks good Brock. You should be able to see what your doing .
Since it's battery powered, I think you should have wired some way of dimmer on them if they are capable. That will make them more efficient and longer lasting (heat wise). Love the output, great project!
Good to know there's another person out there that doesn't like to quit before the job's done I too suffer from that affliction👊👍👍👍👍
I think it turned out great cause the more light the more better!! If you only had four lights in the building you would have more shadows to deal with
They make a special tool for cutting that. Its a BX/MC Rotary Cable cuter
When the weather warms up, every bug within sight of that building will want to be in there if it's lit up plenty like that at night, and soon the spiders would follow them. Also if that conduit isn't tucked away, birds might be tempted to nest in there too. So you may need to plan some countermeasures for those things at some point.
Yup, those loose dangling cable drops look like bird roost like spots huh? Tiny gaps in the breakouts I'd silicone up to prevent insects and spiders living in there.
Are you from Arkansas? Sincerely.
@@wadetaylor4697 why lol
Yeah he’s really gonna pay whenever the arachnid army shows up and injects him with their poisons
Cool! ... Even for security movement detector lights, around the house.
For a lower ceiling, HF has an 8000lm 5000K light for $27.
Thank you for sharing
🏆🤗🙏🇺🇲
I like it bright, but dang, son! ☀😎 Tractor Hard! 🚜💪!
Brock, Never take those lights down. My little machine shop is 25 x 25 with an 8 1/2 foot ceiling. I have Barrina lights which are 4 footers, single tube that put out 4000 lumens @ 6000K bright white. I put up 72 of them which only draws 288 watts total. I'm NOT ever taking any down. I can see everywhere & will never need a flashlight inside again. Great job on your lights. They are perfect.
They are only 4 watts each and put 4000 lumens. Something doesn't equate there.
I miss spoke on mine. They are 150 watt but they put out 19,500 Lumens each.
Howdy Brock! Yeah those are pretty impressive! I agree... looks like 4 or 5 would have been plenty. That is the nice thing about having 'plug and play' lights... you can move them pretty easily. I replaced all my 4 bulb florescent light fixtures in my little shop with those $20 3 foot LED shop lights from Sam's and holy Toledo! At least 50% brighter! Really highlights my mistakes when I make them... lol. Well done and thanks for sharing 🤠
I suspect the specs for 10 lights mean you are near zero chance of ever working in your own shadow etc. Likely more than most need, unless you are doing filming for a TV series pretending you are on a sunny beach😂
Great video, love your enthusiasm and dedication!
That’s a lot of light. Now you know the man from the company was more salesman then engineer. Have a Great day.
I don't think so. They engineered it for basic work lighting, more than likely to OSHA standards,for a factory floor. I wouldn't want any less. But, you know opinions..... 😂😂
Great job !
If this isn't an awesome advertisement for a really great product, then I don't know what is. Awesome! :)
Way to go Brock , 😉 can't wait to see the videos for the new building.
Wow! That's bright! I'd buy some of those lights, but I don't have a building to put them in...just yet.
I never bought the special cable cutter tool. I always just bend the mc cable till it comes apart where it's bent. With practice, you can be pretty accurate in getting the length correct. After getting the length right a little, trimming the conduit to remove burrs and adding the anti short bushing, the right box connector and you're good to go. The box connector you showed were incorrect should've been for mc type cable. It may or may not work out for you though. I like those lights they certainly are bright enough.
That's how I've always seen elctricians do it. Just bend it, and cut where it snapped and clean it up.
Great work, tons of light! I noticed the same company makes 200 watt versions too. You probably have enough solar input but it would be nice to have more backup battery. Alas, the expense of solar is always the batteries unfortunately.
There is a special tool for that type of cable that clamps onto it and has a crank that turns a little cutting wheel. We always called it "mc-cable" and the tool a "mc cable cutter". When you use it to cut the sheath, the excess slides right off. Source: Electrician :P
The more light the better. Just make sure you wear your sunglasses and sun screen lol
You are up late, Brock. Excellent video! I am not sure I have ever seen a building that lit up.
First of all let me say WOW! I wish that we had this type of lighting back in the 1950's - the 70's when I was growing up on a farm in our Q style "Barn / work shop ". As far as the installation is concerned, in the early 60's my dad and uncle wired the barn for lights using the same wiring system without the plugs. It lasted into the 2010's and worked without a problem. The farm was soled and the barn was used as a construction office while the land was developed. What, in God's name, more can you ask from this type of wiring?
Nice place for the birdies to nest in a birdless building. Just used drop lights with led bulbs in ours
Nice job.
I was a little concerned with you working on the middle of the night on tall ladders.
I have fallen off of a ladder and broke my wrist. You where much higher.
I'm glad nothing bad happened.
I'd want rubber grommets in that wall, where the cables for the solar goes through on the side of the wall. Protect those cables from flapping around in the wind which likely will cause the wall to wear through the insulation on your solar power cables.
5 lights with 2 at each end 6th rib in on each end and 5th one dead center. FYI only run these on an inverter generator!
Of course they said 10, 6 would have been fine
To cut the metal loom, hacksaw at about 90° mostly through the shield. Them garb on both sides of the cut and twist back and forth until the rest breaks. You can dress the end with a fine file so it is not sharp.
Nice shop and the lights are awesome. 1500 watts is equivalent to a dryer running. Your solar generator is doing a good job of it. I would suggest a couple of aluminum framed panels permanently mounted. Panels are cheap. I built a 3 panel pole mount out of an old C-band satellite mount. Those portable panel are never gonna last long term. I would use bulkhead MC4 connectors to pass thru your building wall. Completely waterproof pass thru. Thanks for the video. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks
You might want to look at a WiFi lighting controller so you can turn on just the lights you need/want. Think about permanent install of some panels a bigger battery, unless you plan on hooking electricity from the pole to the hut. Other than that, great job!
i like to bend the BX and pop the winding apart then snip off with side cutters... Then you just pull off the casing without having to unravel much of it... Important to prepare the end and make certain there is no really sharp edges use the short stops.
think about adding dimmers? you have them on sep circuits - you can always add some small led lower on the hut - the efficiency of the led is great - you will figure out the ideal setup as you continue and finish construction - going with lighting overkill is no sin, it is wise over provisioning - a couple solar panels will keep battery topped up - the led lights should last 20 yrs+
Great job, guys. P.S. That ladder terrifies me. 😳
In retrospect, would you have taken the opportunity to wire in dimmers? Or is the ability to only have some of the lights on, adequate for toning it down?
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of eye protection when using power tools. I have seen so many eye injuries resulting from a piece of metal getting into the eye - often causing permanent blindness. It's not worth it for vanity or laziness.
About a year ago, a good friend of mine was using a circular saw when the blade shattered. He was sprayed with shrapnel on his face and chest. The eye protection he was wearing was peppered with tiny metal particles that would have been in his eye if he had not been wearing it. The worst injury was to his hand. He now has a permanent 7 inch Nike swoosh shaped scar on his hand and permanent nerve damage...
"I figured 6.. they said I needed 10". 🤣🤣
They are 150 watt each current draw. That like running a hair dryer on high continuously. 150kw monthly with limited use.
Excellent!
You did alright for "shadetree electricians". The device to split the cable is called a "roto-split". You should have stripped them back about twice as long and used an anti-short bushing. It looks like you used 1-hole straps meant for 1/2 conduit, instead of 3/8 straps that would have been tight. Yiu could bend the straps pretty easily to fit in those tight spots. Ideally, yiu would put lock washers on the nuts and secured the safety strap to a different bolt. Anyway, that sounds like a lot but you should be safe with how it is now. Worst case scenario is you blowing up you lights/battery if it ever shorts out, which is not likely.
ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT BY QUALIFIED CERTIFIED ELECTRICIANS ONLY NOT BY UNSKILLED UNSAFE DICKH**DS 😡😱😡😱😡😱
Great effort you put into it but first think is you used wrong connector
It’s not used for mc wire it’s actually used for romex
You should use bushing most call it red head
To strip the wire you should just break the armor by bending it 180 degrees then you can cut it with any available tool
Then use red head to prevent short circuit and use squeeze connector for mc wire
You should also strip enough wire so it’s at least 6 in from the back of the box
Ground wire is important before you connect to device you need to bond it with the box too
I like to use larger boxes for more space and easier access cost is very similar
The connector you used they are ok for the cord that comes from the light
Also using solar I would use 12v batteries and solar panels and remove drivers from the lights
This way it’s more efficient
Using inverter there is list of energy
If this was intended just for lighting than wiring would be much simpler and cheaper by keeping everything everything low voltage
Of course distance of wiring is important dealing with dc power
Hope this helps you in the future projects saves you money improves quality of your work
Wish you good luck with everything you do
SHOULD HAVE put even lights on switches to see what half light would look like 💙
Why the Hell didn't you hook up the dimmer circuit? Dimming those LED will extend their lifetimes enormously. The way you have it hooked up, you can reduce the number of lamps you run, but they will always run at full power.
They make a cutter for that flexible conduit. It costs about $40. It makes the process a bit easier.
I need that power source you got. I watch Josh with Stoney ridge farmer and he’s got me really thinking about more solar power usage. less bills to pay.
I have had hykolity lights in my steel 60’x30’ building for six years. The only issue is with my outside night activated led I have had to replace it twice . I realized it is the sensor not the led.
Um my friend has a trailer with a solar panel system on it he uses on his farm , you might find the same voltage and watts as those panels you have and replace them with the others and put them on a trailer that way you can move them around when you need to and if you need power any place else on your property just hook up the trailer and there you go.
Nice Boorah Grasshopper 🏆🏆👴🐕🚜🦍
I have 15 of those in my shop, if you connect them with a twist plug that makes it easier to change out when they die, which is about 3 times a year
Your LED lights only last a few months
put a fan on them
Manuel-- please explain-- you have these same lights, and you have to change them out three times a year?
I got solar street lights around my house. There so bright. I don't need lights to walk around in the house during the night. Cause of there light shinning threw the windows. Last month we had a hail storm and knock 3 of them out Now idk what to do? Why Replace them? For hail the knock them out again. I dearly love them. In a power outage there nice to have! They have paid for themselves already, But they don't last in a hail storm
yeah it's called an MC cutter but if you don't have one you can always use your wire Dykes and cut one little section of that sleeve and Slide the whole bed off you don't have to unwind it around the wire you just go to the spot where you want it to cut at and you take your wire Dykes and yeah snip it right there and you unscrew it half a turn and it'll slide right off then you got these little things little red caps that you put on the end and tea abrasion cap it wraps around the wires slides in behind the metal conduit flex metal conduit the MC cutter makes it really easy cuz it just slices one nice little piece leaves no birds you twisted half a turn and you slide off the end then you put one of those little red caps on there to keep it abrasion from happening from the metal to the wire you have to do that you probably didn't do that on any one of your connections
Man that's bright... guess you'll be spending alot on sunscreen now lol
As for the solar panels I'd just run some wooden stakes through the carrying handles.
You did a great job there.
Thanks
People have mentioned it already. BUT you really need to use BX Electrical Cable Protective Sleeves when using BX wire. It will direct short over time.
Basic wiring 101
@Joe-by8jh I didn’t get a permit to put up the building…
"Welcome to the Mosquito Bar" Looks great with easy flexibility to make changes.
A new subscriber here.
The only thing "wrong" is, lol, there ain't a building like that on my property!
Wishing you many fun & productive years in your new workshop! Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks
Looks like Radio City Music Hall at the end.
How come you have closed of the Quonset hut or at least one side and put in a concrete floor to make it an more comfortable space to work in especially in the winter.
Six well placed lights would have done the job quite well.
Kinda late now but you should have gotten you some dimmable lights. That way you can dim them and still have lights across the entire space. May not be an issue tho if you just want light where you are working. I have a 40 foot geodesic dome im lighting for my shop. Ceiling is 26 feet high. I plan to use five higher power (200W+) lights with dimmer. Tell us about you metal building. Im wanting to add something like that to my property for storage? Thanks for the info!
Can you put some on the end?
4:16 - - Great way to get rid of the WD40!! LOL
1500 watts is a lot.
You must have a pretty nice solar array to charge the battery.
do you have dimensions of your building Hight and position of your H-bay and how much lux did you have
love the brand name :) HyKolity - High Quality XD
Yeah, this is a totally cool video! I love LED lights, solar power. Hanging them up in your barn. It's all good.
Can you suspend things from that roof? Like lifting a 4000lb boat off the ground long enough to slide a trailer in.
That’s why you cover bright lights indoors with a diffusing material… takes the center brightness and distributes it… and the other rays 😂
Crystal works best but acrylics and silicone also disperse without blocking much. And don’t smash so easily
Wow, I wish I had that much space
You'd just fill it up with junk.😂
@@krisknowlton5935 There would be some junk there
I just bought the cub cadet cc800 version of this last week and I love it.
Great video and commentary, love the slow mo Mechanical p0rn money shots. naughty grass domination 😂.
Jokes aside, good stuff. Subscribed 👍🏾
Amazing Brock, 1st target of china😆🚜🪵👍🏼🇺🇸
10 for to many in that size building!
Should have used 1/2" instead of the 3/4" for the straps and should have used MC connectors and not EMT connectors at the boxes. The 1/2" straps will fit in that tighter area where the 3/4" are just too big. But for someone that does not really know what they are doing, it came out pretty good.
FYI: If you bend the MC enough it will break apart, then use your side cutters to cut off what you do not want. Rule of thump 6-8". A lot quicker than unwinding it.
Thanks for the feedback
How much was your metal building looks nice
If you would just use the regular conduit, you could have hung all the lights and safety cables on the conduit like it was designed for.
Great for hydroponics !
How have they lasted? I bought a different Chinese made one and it stopped working after about eight months. I wonder if it's because of the high temps and very low temps.
So far so good
Wow thats bright, do you really need ALL the lights all the time?
You could split them to light up some and some not and/or wire them for the dimmer too, you’ll have more time from your batteries.
If you make a frame try to make it swivel to face the sun at different times
Nice job.
He DID arrange to light only some at a time. 3 Circuits... Lights roughly 1/3 of them at a time, more IF needed!
But there some bad things about solar power. 1 is night time. 2 cloudy days. 3 is Hail beat on the solar cells > I got a Quonset Hut building about the same size or bigger I love them 👍👍
Right….how long will they last?
"I could have gotten away with 4, but the company that sells them told me I needed 10" 😅😅
Nice, but why do you use the metric system with watts and not horsepower?
I use whatever information is provided with the product I’m using… I don’t understand your question
I don't think your estimator took into account the reflectivity of your walls. While this may decrease over time with oxidation 3 to 4 lights hung high center should be enough.
whjat is the building made of?
so they are 19500 lumen not 5000. 5000k is the color temperature. 5000k is very white . i prefer something warmer which is like 3500k.
Yeah, that’s the mistake I made while I was recording. It’s 5000 K color temperature 19,500 lm.
I fixed it in the title
So nothing you did wrong, lol. But you can drill that steel with masonry drill bits, they stay sharp and cut fast, and don’t burn up your good bits.
Remove those panels ... they are not designed for all day exposition to sunlight. Use regular panels that will surive 15-25+ years outside.
Do not use 10 lights .. only 6 and keep the others as spares cause some will fail.
Nice video. I've ordered 8 for less than $300 with 10% off code. How are they holding up? The Hyperlite company was more expensive and these look of equal quality so I pulled the trigger.
The safety strap/lanyard probably should not have used the same plate as the light. Should be independent of the mounting for the light itself. That way, if the mounting plate were to fail, you’d still be safe.
Great project though!
Indeed, if you just put up more of the hooks that are supposed to keep the wire in place to other nearby bolts, you could run the safety cable to them, and not have to change much at all. Just another hour up on the ladder.
Ty is an excellent video.
We will not do what you are doing unless we do ...lol.
It's called at your own risk and parel.
Keep it coming, keep on keeping on trucking...
Sub for a while.
God-bless you and your family and friends.