Hello there! You’re the man from the A1 parts videos, I’ve enjoyed the help you’ve shared from some of those episodes. I recently bought a 1996 Nissan Quest w/3.0 engine. I’m suffering from a terrible low speed bog and bad gas mileage. My mechanic scanned it today and found a KS code. I plan to do this to mine and pray that it helps with my symptoms. Great video, thank you!
@@AndyTheXTech. Thank you! Ok, so this Saturday I will do it! I have all the parts and am excited to finally get this done. I have just one very good and final question. I don’t want to relocate the throttle bracket. I want to mount the sensor on top of the bracket. I wonder if it will still be able to hear through all that steel. What do you think? Thank you Andy, I just subscribed to your channel, it sure is a good one.
Unfortunately for me I just had the air plenum off to replace the fuel regulator. And two weeks later the knock sensor goes out. Should had replaced it when I had it apart. Didn't think about it until we were almost done putting it back together. Just my luck. So off it comes again. Now I'm having a abs issue. I've had 3 mechanics try to read it. Scanner says no communication. So now I'm needing to replace the abs module. Fun stuff. Lol
Just got a 2000 Pathfinder for free from a relative. I've been slowly doing work and saving various videos. This one will come in handy as I imagine I'd prefer not to destroy half the car to get a light turned off. I swear half a car's sensors are only there to turn on the CEL.
Exactly! Older cars don’t have nearly as many problems. Although with the right computer equipment most modern cars are fairly easy to diagnose. That’s a great vehicle. I had mine for almost 10 years. I just sold it last weekend.
Hi. I've got an unmodified 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 164,000 miles, 3.3L V6, 5 speed automatic transmission. Owned by an elderly couple...treated well. Runs smoothly. 10w-30 oil/filter is new and full. Same with transmission fluid. When it's first started it knocks or loudly rattles for 3 seconds. Then it stops. Once warm it will only do the startup rattle about 50% of the time. Exact same noise returns from about 1,800 to 3,200 RPM and then stops. Also, the noise quiets and sometimes disappears between 1,800 - 3,200 RPM if I let off of the accelerator and coast. It also will not do it sometimes if I'm going up a steep hill slowly with the RPMs are in that midrange, under the hill's load. The noise increases in speed and loudness with increasing RPMs. It sounds like 1 or maybe 2 cylinders of the 6, to me. The main bearings and rod bearings were changed. Looked good, some rod bearing wear on a couple but not serious. No rod or crank shaft slop was noted before or after replacement. Made no difference in the noise. The crank was NOT sanded/polished. It throws a P1400 code for EGRC Solenoid Valve error. I don't notice any idling or power issues though. It returns within a few minutes after clearing the code. Could this cause a knocking noise at certain times like I have? It runs smooth cold and hot. I've narrowed it down to 5 things based on its part time occurrence: 1. Flex plate? 2. Timing belt tensioner failing (unknown when last changed)? 3. Torque converter? 4. Hydraulic lifters? 5. EGRC Solenoid Valve? I have two short videos I recorded it and can share if you want to hear it. Thanks!
Unfortunately by relocating the knock sensor on top, it doesn't work correctly. It needs to be on the block itself. I know this because I've done this exact same thing. I'm currently trying to figure out where an easier spots on the block. No luck so far. I'll probably have to just put in where it belongs. Great video though. Thanks
My customer is not willing to pay for the labor cost but needs to pass emission on his 96 pathfinder. I’ll definitely talk to him about this hack he has no other choice but to give it a go lmao 😂
I’m going through this right now with my 2002 Nissan Xterra with 120,000 miles. It recently threw a knock sensor code. It was running fine now it’s got a flashing check engine light any misfire and I have been told by everybody on the Facebook forums that something else is causing the misfire. It’s not my knock sensor. Either way, it doesn’t really matter at this point because the truck is already at the shop. God knows what the repair bills going to cost. I will find out on Friday fuck my life.
My 2000 Pathfinder LE has to be started at least 2 times for it to stay running, drags with acceleration, and pretty much burns through gas. I took it to a shop and the only codes are the knock sensors. Hopefully this will fix or help it!
Hey man thanks for the video! Can you tell me if you haven’t had any issues with this hack? Where did you buy the harness? Any link? I bought one sensor but it came with the wrong harness.
Yup so far it is still working great. The link for the part used in the video: amzn.to/3flGJYm (affiliate link) its also in the description if the link doesn't work. Thank you for checking out the video. 👍
Hello how are you? I'm from Brazil and I have a 92 year pathfinder, my car is without this sensor, they say the right place is the collector but in this place you put it doesn't change anything? since the manual says below? my car is with idle speed oscillating and some popping in the collector, is this my problem? since I changed everything I could?
With the new position so far there hasn’t have any problems with the pathfinder running. But I don’t this this is your problem. It could be many problems causing this. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, timing, dirty throttle body, idle air control valve, are some possibles. I would first check for vacuum leaks.
Thanks! I’m not really sure about the size of the bolt but it was about 1/2 in longer than the sensor. Pretty common metric thread just an extra bolt that I found in my toolbox.
Bought a 99 Pathfinder this year and it has this done to it already. But it has 2 wires coming from it. The Pathfinder is jerking real bad and not accelerating. Had knock sensor code and crank position sensor code. There was oil on the CP sensor. Is that normal?
I have the same problem on my 2000 Xterra. Same code. BUT, also have loud knocking sound from engine. One day fine, next day knocking with code. Could relocating the knock sensor with a new one stop the knocking? Everybody is telling me the engine is shot?? Sure hope not! Only 167,000 miles! HELP?
I replaced the knock sensor the correct way and still code appears. Mechanic says pigtails go bad on these. I have a Hitachi knock sensor new inside engine that I would like to still utilize. So the harness you got will not work for my application. The connector harness I found online that matches the sensors all have two wires on it instead of one. I plan on possibly doing relocation with a cheap knock sensor I previously purchased before Hitachi two feet long wires and connecting to radiator side of connector so if code comes up I would narrow issue to ecm wire. Then just have extra length open car back up and connect to harness already in engine. No shielding on harness that's avaliable online. Do you think I can use both wires without issue and shielding and expect same engine performance. What would be optimal ? Thank you
Hey Andy, do you know if the relocated knock sensor can actually sense knock from the new location, or if the new sensor just alleviates the DTC code by being a happy, healthy, wired-in sensor regardless of its location?
@@AndyTheXTech my 02 3.3 Xterra keeps getting the po328 code but pending and it doesn’t turn on the engine light . I did the full tune up with oem parts. Including timing belt distributor. Car feels like it still has a slight miss . From what I have read everyone says the knock sensor doesn’t affect the non supercharged so that is why I was wondering how yours ran before. Thanks again.
Ya it’s probably not coming from the knock sensor. I would double check the cap and rotor. I did one and the cap melted causing a misfire. Could be the distributor also.
@@AndyTheXTech I got new one from 1aauto. It was making weird noises so they sent me another one free. Great service. Installed it and it seemed ok for a bit but now I get this rough idle for a few seconds on cold start and it clears up and idles smooth after a min. I swear it’s these aftermarket distributors.
@@2drsdan No don't apologize. I appreciate constructive criticism. Thank you for pointing it out. some time the music sounds great in headphones when I'm editing but like nails on a chalkboard from a phone.
I like the video, Andy. You speak with honesty and truth. The trick is gonna help a lot of people out there, man.
Thanks for the tip. Did it today on a 2000 pathfinder 3.3L. Worked perfectly !
Awesome! 👍
Hello there! You’re the man from the A1 parts videos, I’ve enjoyed the help you’ve shared from some of those episodes. I recently bought a 1996 Nissan Quest w/3.0 engine. I’m suffering from a terrible low speed bog and bad gas mileage. My mechanic scanned it today and found a KS code. I plan to do this to mine and pray that it helps with my symptoms. Great video, thank you!
Awesome! Yeah I still work at 1A. And yes the knock sensor tricked worked on mine. Little bit easier than pulling the intake off. 👍
@@AndyTheXTech. Thank you! Ok, so this Saturday I will do it! I have all the parts and am excited to finally get this done. I have just one very good and final question. I don’t want to relocate the throttle bracket. I want to mount the sensor on top of the bracket. I wonder if it will still be able to hear through all that steel. What do you think? Thank you Andy, I just subscribed to your channel, it sure is a good one.
You can also do. A little reach around and break off the original switch, and reuse it in new location. No cutting or splicing.
O good call wish I tried that.
Unfortunately for me I just had the air plenum off to replace the fuel regulator. And two weeks later the knock sensor goes out. Should had replaced it when I had it apart. Didn't think about it until we were almost done putting it back together. Just my luck. So off it comes again. Now I'm having a abs issue. I've had 3 mechanics try to read it. Scanner says no communication. So now I'm needing to replace the abs module. Fun stuff. Lol
Just got a 2000 Pathfinder for free from a relative. I've been slowly doing work and saving various videos. This one will come in handy as I imagine I'd prefer not to destroy half the car to get a light turned off. I swear half a car's sensors are only there to turn on the CEL.
Exactly! Older cars don’t have nearly as many problems. Although with the right computer equipment most modern cars are fairly easy to diagnose. That’s a great vehicle. I had mine for almost 10 years. I just sold it last weekend.
Hi. I've got an unmodified 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 164,000 miles, 3.3L V6, 5 speed automatic transmission. Owned by an elderly couple...treated well. Runs smoothly.
10w-30 oil/filter is new and full. Same with transmission fluid.
When it's first started it knocks or loudly rattles for 3 seconds. Then it stops. Once warm it will only do the startup rattle about 50% of the time. Exact same noise returns from about 1,800 to 3,200 RPM and then stops. Also, the noise quiets and sometimes disappears between 1,800 - 3,200 RPM if I let off of the accelerator and coast. It also will not do it sometimes if I'm going up a steep hill slowly with the RPMs are in that midrange, under the hill's load.
The noise increases in speed and loudness with increasing RPMs. It sounds like 1 or maybe 2 cylinders of the 6, to me.
The main bearings and rod bearings were changed. Looked good, some rod bearing wear on a couple but not serious. No rod or crank shaft slop was noted before or after replacement. Made no difference in the noise. The crank was NOT sanded/polished.
It throws a P1400 code for EGRC Solenoid Valve error. I don't notice any idling or power issues though. It returns within a few minutes after clearing the code. Could this cause a knocking noise at certain times like I have? It runs smooth cold and hot.
I've narrowed it down to 5 things based on its part time occurrence:
1. Flex plate?
2. Timing belt tensioner failing (unknown when last changed)?
3. Torque converter?
4. Hydraulic lifters?
5. EGRC Solenoid Valve?
I have two short videos I recorded it and can share if you want to hear it. Thanks!
Yup my first thoughts are lifter. Send my the videos andythextech@gmail.com
Maybe I can help you out.
@@AndyTheXTech thanks will do!
Some cars are just not worth the effort. Nice job beating the system!
Exactly! thanks man! It would have taken hours to do it the right way and something probably would have broken. Thanks for watching Dude! 👍
Unfortunately by relocating the knock sensor on top, it doesn't work correctly. It needs to be on the block itself. I know this because I've done this exact same thing. I'm currently trying to figure out where an easier spots on the block. No luck so far. I'll probably have to just put in where it belongs. Great video though. Thanks
Yes, it’s not an ideal hack but for the people who drive vehicles that are only worth about $1000 it could come in handy.
My customer is not willing to pay for the labor cost but needs to pass emission on his 96 pathfinder. I’ll definitely talk to him about this hack he has no other choice but to give it a go lmao 😂
Ya it does work. That’s crazy you still need a emotions test on a 96. NH stops after 20 years.
@@AndyTheXTech I think if you have historic tags you don’t need it
I’m going through this right now with my 2002 Nissan Xterra with 120,000 miles. It recently threw a knock sensor code. It was running fine now it’s got a flashing check engine light any misfire and I have been told by everybody on the Facebook forums that something else is causing the misfire. It’s not my knock sensor. Either way, it doesn’t really matter at this point because the truck is already at the shop. God knows what the repair bills going to cost. I will find out on Friday fuck my life.
Ya knock sensors don’t normally cause misfires but any thing is possible. I’ve seen some weird s#*+ 👍
My 2000 Pathfinder LE has to be started at least 2 times for it to stay running, drags with acceleration, and pretty much burns through gas. I took it to a shop and the only codes are the knock sensors. Hopefully this will fix or help it!
did it help
Hey man thanks for the video! Can you tell me if you haven’t had any issues with this hack? Where did you buy the harness? Any link? I bought one sensor but it came with the wrong harness.
Yup so far it is still working great. The link for the part used in the video: amzn.to/3flGJYm (affiliate link)
its also in the description if the link doesn't work. Thank you for checking out the video. 👍
Hello how are you? I'm from Brazil and I have a 92 year pathfinder, my car is without this sensor, they say the right place is the collector but in this place you put it doesn't change anything? since the manual says below? my car is with idle speed oscillating and some popping in the collector, is this my problem? since I changed everything I could?
With the new position so far there hasn’t have any problems with the pathfinder running. But I don’t this this is your problem. It could be many problems causing this. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, timing, dirty throttle body, idle air control valve, are some possibles. I would first check for vacuum leaks.
great video, what size was the new longer bolt to secure the sensor?
Thanks! I’m not really sure about the size of the bolt but it was about 1/2 in longer than the sensor. Pretty common metric thread just an extra bolt that I found in my toolbox.
Does this actually work and why does the tile say to not do this hack?
Bought a 99 Pathfinder this year and it has this done to it already. But it has 2 wires coming from it. The Pathfinder is jerking real bad and not accelerating. Had knock sensor code and crank position sensor code. There was oil on the CP sensor. Is that normal?
I would probably worry about the crank sensor code 1st. Then clear and drive it. See if the knock sensor code comes back then worry about that.
I have a 2011 pathfinder with 4.0 do you know the locations of its knock sensors?
My mechanic told me todo the same thing lol. Did it improve power and gas mileage ? That’s mainly the main issue I’m having since that code appeared.
Runs and drives normal. I don’t know how long this will last but for now it’s good.
@@AndyTheXTech Thanks for the response !
Mr plow does it again.... The chop shop in action ;)
Lol! I’m just getting started. Plenty of life hacks or just hacks to come. 👍
It protects the signal from electromagnetic interference
You mean why wrap the ground wire around the signal wire? That makes sense. Thanks.
I have the same problem on my 2000 Xterra. Same code. BUT, also have loud knocking sound from engine. One day fine, next day knocking with code. Could relocating the knock sensor with a new one stop the knocking? Everybody is telling me the engine is shot?? Sure hope not! Only 167,000 miles! HELP?
Nice! Hey if it gets you by then it works! I've done hacks that are way worse than this lol
Thanks! Lol you should show some in your videos. 👍
@@AndyTheXTech I'll think about it. Some are too sketchy to show on TH-cam lol
Ha ha. That’s what I thought. 🤪
@@AndyTheXTech Lol
The wire wrapping sround the white one is the ground .
Ya that’s what I thought.
Can you explain why the description says "Don't do this knock sensor hack"?
Hint hint nudge nudge. 😉👍
@@AndyTheXTechso no issues so far?
@@benwoodley8158 it worked for as long as I owned it. I sold the pathfinder last year.
I replaced the knock sensor the correct way and still code appears. Mechanic says pigtails go bad on these. I have a Hitachi knock sensor new inside engine that I would like to still utilize. So the harness you got will not work for my application. The connector harness I found online that matches the sensors all have two wires on it instead of one. I plan on possibly doing relocation with a cheap knock sensor I previously purchased before Hitachi two feet long wires and connecting to radiator side of connector so if code comes up I would narrow issue to ecm wire. Then just have extra length open car back up and connect to harness already in engine. No shielding on harness that's avaliable online. Do you think I can use both wires without issue and shielding and expect same engine performance. What would be optimal ? Thank you
The way I did it worked in mine. You could try it and see if it works.
Also there is a link to the part I use in the description. Comes with the sensor and the harness it’s for an infinity.
Think this will work for a 1999 Lexus LS 400
Sure I think as long as the knock sensor is kind of close to where it should be it will work.
Dear friend, I am from Japan, I subscribed to your channel👍482, thank you very much for sharing🙇♀️
You’re welcome! Thank you for subscribing and checking out the video. 👍
Hey Andy, do you know if the relocated knock sensor can actually sense knock from the new location, or if the new sensor just alleviates the DTC code by being a happy, healthy, wired-in sensor regardless of its location?
Is it should work fine it might be off a little but with the age of these vehicles I just want it to run.
I didi everything like show video. Chkack come again! What can i do?
You could have gotten a bad sensor or there also could be w wiring problem from your sensor connector to the computer. Did you solder the wire?
Was the car running bad before the relocation
Yup. Just had the engine light and code. It’s still running great and no light. 👍
@@AndyTheXTech my 02 3.3 Xterra keeps getting the po328 code but pending and it doesn’t turn on the engine light . I did the full tune up with oem parts. Including timing belt distributor. Car feels like it still has a slight miss . From what I have read everyone says the knock sensor doesn’t affect the non supercharged so that is why I was wondering how yours ran before. Thanks again.
Ya it’s probably not coming from the knock sensor. I would double check the cap and rotor. I did one and the cap melted causing a misfire. Could be the distributor also.
@@AndyTheXTech I got new one from 1aauto. It was making weird noises so they sent me another one free. Great service. Installed it and it seemed ok for a bit but now I get this rough idle for a few seconds on cold start and it clears up and idles smooth after a min. I swear it’s these aftermarket distributors.
Ya check that cap. You can email me at Andythextech@gmail.com I can send you a picture of what I’m talking about specifically.
OH my god could you find any MORE annoying music? I didn't think so.
Silence is golden.
Lol! Come on all the cool kids like it. Actually I had to go back and listen to it I forgot which song it was. Good call I won’t use that one again.
@@AndyTheXTech Sorry for trashing your parade. At least you didn't play it while talking that is the worst. You'd hate my music as well.
@@2drsdan No don't apologize. I appreciate constructive criticism. Thank you for pointing it out. some time the music sounds great in headphones when I'm editing but like nails on a chalkboard from a phone.
Talk too much