Adjustable Split-Side Pants? Turning The Skirt That ALWAYS Fits Into TROUSERS ft. The Stitchery
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.พ. 2024
- In this highly anticipated sequel to our skirt-making tutorials, join me and Charlie from The Stitchery as we explore the world of adjustable, split side trousers! Packed with tips and techniques, this comprehensive tutorial covers everything from patterning to essential sewing skills, empowering viewers of all levels to create trousers that fit no matter your size. With a focus on sustainability and zero waste, I'll guide you through crafting trousers that are not only stylish but also eco-friendly. Whether you're a seasoned sewing enthusiast or a beginner looking to dive into DIY fashion, this video is your ticket to creating stylish trousers with confidence and creativity.
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Get ready for another exciting DIY fashion adventure as we dive into the world of handmade adjustable split-side pants in collaboration with Charlie from The Stitchery! Following the success of our skirt-making tutorials, we've teamed up on a brand new video showcasing how to create your own stylish and customizable trousers using the same simple and beginner-friendly approach.
In this highly anticipated sequel, I'll guide you through the process of making trousers from start to finish, with a special focus on versatility and customization. Whether you're a seasoned sewing enthusiast or a complete beginner, you'll find something to love in this comprehensive tutorial.
Working alongside Charlie from The Stitchery, I've crafted four pairs of trousers in different styles testing out some of the ideas with came up with, and ranging from the easiest to the most complicated. From casual everyday wear to statement-making fashion pieces, there's something for everyone in this exciting line up.
Throughout the video, I'll share tips, tricks, and techniques to help you master each step of the trouser-making process. From selecting the perfect fabric to mastering essential sewing techniques, I'll cover everything you need to know to create trousers that fit and flatter your body.
Join me as I explore various adjustable trouser styles, including wrap pants, Japanese hakama, and more. With my easy-to-follow instructions and Charlie's guidance and creativity, you'll learn how to customize your trousers to suit your unique style preferences and body shape.
Whether you're looking to refresh your wardrobe with handmade pieces or you're eager to dive into the world of DIY fashion for the first time, this video is sure to inspire and empower you to get creative with your sewing skills.
So grab your sewing machine, dust off your fabric stash, and get ready to embark on a sewing adventure like never before. With our guidance and inspiration, you'll be stitching up stylish trousers in no time!
Don't forget to like, comment, and subscribe to both our channels for more DIY fashion inspiration. And be sure to follow us on social media for behind-the-scenes sneak peeks and updates on future collaborations.
Thanks for joining us on this sewing journey-we can't wait to see the fabulous trousers you create!
#historicalfashion #sewing #sewingtutorial #zerowaste #sustainablefashion #beginnersewing
The way I squealed with joy when I saw two of my favorite creators doing a crossover! This made my Friday, thank you.
Same. I whipped my head around to stare at my phone and made the people around me blink
Me too!
Ditto so happy to see you both together 🎉
the practical part of me: you haven't finished the skirt from a month ago.
the part of me that is eternally a juvenile crow: NEW PROJECT!!!!!
Cool seeing 2 TH-camrs I follow on the same video.
I was just thinking that!
Your paper construction demonstration was brilliant! Easy to follow and understand, thank you
Yessssssssss! So happy to see Ash & Charlie doing this collab
The reality is, the two of you made it easier for the rest of us because you sorted out some issues.
Creator crossover makes for the best morning!
I love that you included so much of your shared brainstorm/reflection! So much inspiration!
Yes! We got so much more of their conversation than in Charlie's video and it was so fun to see their thought processes!
Ash and Charlie,
Ah, pants. Nemeses extraordinaire.
For my pair of fisherman’s pants (10+ years ago?), I elasticated the first waistband. This kept them up regardless, and only required one tie.
I have now entered the “if it doesn’t have good pockets, why bother” collective. And while I liked the split leg in summer (like my other fellow Texan), it isn’t the greatest winter option.
Much like Charlie’s adjustable waistband, I have considered that for the interior waistband … very similar to “chaps” with an arcing shape. I’m imagining an outer waistband that either buttons or snaps rather than ties. I’ve always wanted the adjustability with less bulk.
As to hip measurements, most pants will have 2+” (5 cm) of ease at the hips for comfort and sit-ability. Several of my favorite instructors recommend wrapping fabric around a leg/hip and sitting down to see what your minimum ease is … that is your starting point. Any width you add on top is a design choice.
Excellent work you two. These note videos will help immensely when you feel ready to tackle pants again!
Kira
Please please please can more people use sticky note models. The 3-d modeling/imagination is the hardest part for me and that made it *soooooo* easy to understand!!
One thing I'm surprised neither tried: make the pockets a solution rather than a problem.
To wit, sew them as usual with one half of the pocket bag sewed to the front, the other half on the back, and then just leave the top open.
The width of the pocket bags becomes the extra space to clear your hips/bum, and the inside of them becomes the panel that hides the gap.
Honestly, though, if you want size flexibility, embrace modern materials and use elastic. 😅
The paper examples were so helpful
Oh that first pair needs a big chunky combat boot with it. So cute!!!
Has anyone ever used the walk away pattern to make trousers? I just suggested this to my partner who said " walk away trousers? Isn't that a Wallace and Grommit film" 😂😂😂
Using the paper to explain as you go IS SO HELPFUL! Thank you!
Could take a look at how they do the crotch on dungarees for inspo? And if you really want drop-back pants, add a closure on the lower sides sonyou can drop them far enough? 🤔
What a wonderful crossover! You two and Evelyn Wood made picking sewing back up accessible for me. Thank you for making such great content!
I LOVE that you make stiff miniature paper panels to demonstrate. That is SO HELPFUL. Thank you
This was so interesting! As a person with a lot of size flux I'm very interested in the size adjustable clothing experimentation. I'm still only partway through my first split side skirt following your tutorial though so I think it will be a long time till I try pants. Which reminds me that I did the pleats math and should go attempt to implement it soon.
+50000000 points for the paper models, it makes the construction make SO MUCH SENSE to my poor muddled brain 😅. Thank you! Can’t wait to try making some of these, they seem sooooo comfy
I have a pair of wrap-around pants. Not Hakama, not fisherman’s pants, but I’ve never been able to find a name or pattern for. Instead of side seams, it overlaps all the way down the leg-similar to when you added the full half panel to the front sides, but on the back as well. There’s a dart in front, so no pleats and a fairly fitted look (though they fall straight from the side of the hips), the excess overlaps on the sides instead. They can flap open when walking fast, but they have all the adjustability of the petticoat skirt, and my mum was able to add panels to the “backs” to make them bigger (and give sneaky glimpses of the new fabric when walking). You can choose whether you want the front or back “on top” and can drop the back to use the toilet; you can tie the back under the front with a little finessing (similar to how you tied the petticoat front under the back, if that makes sense). Dunno if this information helps you/anyone conceptualise some new ideas to try.
Love the little paper models!
I think maybe cutting a 4-6" wide strip from the side front to sew on as an extension to the side back might work to address the gaping problem, and give you more ability to drop the seat far enough to pee.
Cool project!
I recently attempted making some split-side trousers as stand-ins for Split Drawers under my 1860's outfit, with much less success and much more chaos. 🤣😅
I wish I had seen this video first, because doing Hakama-style trousers would have been much simpler. ❤️
(Perhaps I'll just have to make another pair...? 🤔😉)
Thank you for this!
And thank you for having the paper representation of the pattern. It was super helpful when it came to clearly representing the steps.
You're the best!
I was literally about to type this into the TH-cam search and there you were in my feed, just in time!!
Loved watching the two of you brainstorming together ❤
Absolutely LOVED the way the second pair (long, olive green) pair draped! Definitely my favorite, flaws & all. And the ones you said you made in pajama material? I live in Texas, which is basically the armpit of Hell in the Summer, I would totally wear all Summer long. REALLY liked the pattern of the last ones, though. So happy you & Charlie did this collab!!!! LOVE both your channels & this was just way to much fun to watch. Thanks to you both! 💖💖💖
Y'all amaze me. I made a cosplay costume that required hakima. I had the fabric, I had the pattern, I had two months of time and 40+ years of sewing experience. I read through the pattern - several times. I watched videos on making proper hakima. I made a mock up. I made another mock up. I have one thing to say on my experience - thank God for martial arts equipment supply houses and my dear friend (a brown belt in Judo) who suggested one.
For many years I've sewn everything I made by hand (or crocheted it or something) because I've never had a sewing machine I really liked and felt comfortable using, and I had my last machine about 6 years ago. Well, when I saw how one of these pairs of pants you made came out, I felt really excited about the thought of having a sewing machine again. It made me really want to try machine sewing again.. I'm super happy and pleased to find this video. Thank you for going to so much trouble for me and your other viewers!!!!!
Thank you for showing the paper mock up. It made the crotch seam so much more understandable than watching it happen with just the fabric!
Also, thanks for the collab. You two are the youtubers I watched who made me believe I could make a skirt without a pattern. I made it for my granddaughter, and she loves it. Making one for my daughter, then there are several for me in the plans! Fast fashion has failed me a few too many times and it's nearly impossible to find what I want, so I'm committed to just making things myself.
Loved to see this crossover! This is now has me thinking about adjusting fall front trousers to be a little more adjustable, and a little more modern... Hmm, one to add to the pile of plans I think.
This was a smash hit! I ended up watching it probably three times because I kept going back-and-forth and back-and-forth and read it really studying what you’re doing and it’s just fantastic. I have a solution for the gaposis on the side: make a renaissance pocket. Think of the gap as the way to get to your pocket. lol.
I like watching the reality in sewing. The mistakes people like you make give me, a total beginner, on what not to do if I would ever try these. Thank you for the contents. I have learned something new. New subscriber here.
I used the Victorian cycle bloomer to make mine and add pockets to the back panel and I love them
I made the back panel and the front separately then put both on and connected them on the side and at the bottom of the pocket opening
Hell yeah!! Bloomers are so underrated as a clothing piece!!!
I liked your paper demonstrations.
Omg yes yes yes!!! Thank you so much, this is exactly what I wished for!!
I wonder if adding some judiciously-placed snaps would help. Thank you so much for the paper model -- it really helped.
Someday, I shall make a pair of trousers that do not make me miserable in the process or in the wearing. My brain always just looks at bifurcated garments and says, "You DO recall that we have abysmal spatial intelligence, yes? That makes the first part of the equation a bit dicey."
Was so surprised by this collaboration but SO happy! Love both your channels and the way you approach sewing and experimenting 🥰 It was interesting to see the difference between the hakama inspired pants and the "modern" paper pattern ones. And your visuals with the paper pieces were very helpful! Tempted to make pants now but should probably finish my skirt first 🥰 Thank you for the video.
I really loved the green pair when you closed up the seam at the side. (the second pair you made)
Definitely make a fourth pair. They will come out great.
Oh man I was hoping there would eventually be pants! I kind of want to attempt this, but maybe I should tackle some of the other dozens of projects waiting for me to get to them, first... thank you so much for sharing!
Ash, thanks so much for the tiny paper mock-up somehow it helps me process the concept better. It also helps when you made it waddle like the pair was walking 😂 thank you ❤🎉
I solved the coverage issue with a decorative flap sewn on the front on the secret split side pants I modified from a Truly Victorian pattern.
Love these! Reminds me of the progression of wrap pants (shorts and ankle) I worked on in the 60's.... yes, I'm vintage! And to your question of going to the bathroom w/o taking them completely off like a jumpsuit, I would leave the front part tied (toward the back), untie the back and swing that part through my legs and hold them in the front. That who gyration became more difficult (impossible really) as I developed them into a partially sewn side seam but did allow them to simply be pulled down like regular pants even if I had to untie front and back.... until I started using elastic on the back waist.... interesting how these are so similar to the pants worn under saris.
When I made mine I started by copying a pair of trousers that fit well for the crotch pattern. I attached pockets to the back half of the waistband. The back waistband closes with a hook and bar. The front waistband snaps on each side.
Wow these look hard! Well done ❤
Some thoughts: hakamas would probably the best option for what I want - appearing almost like a skirt except better suited for, say, cycling, or sitting on a saddle stool.
Also, if doing pajama pants, being able to untie only the backside in the toilet at night would indeed be a plus.
Yay for collaborations! Well done.
Have you thought of working with the Canadian sewist Shannon Makes? She's made adjustable clothing in the past.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
My first thought was to try something like fall-front trousers, but with ties instead of buttons. Maybe making the back larger and the front narrower would fix the gaping?
This is fun, crossover and why not to try this.
Especially as i am yet to make any garment.
What! This is excellent. Cool collab and thanks for sharing your discussion. A skirt with a crotch in it sounds good to me.
I'm so glad to see this!
Ever since the whole Secret Pants craze started a couple years ago with multiple youtubers I watch tackling the challenge in a variety of ways, I've been wanting to make mine hakama-based since I've made more hakama (using Budo Bear patterns and instructions) than other legwear, and I've even got the bottom part of a hakama I partially trashed doing martial arts to start with for my proof of concept (it shredded around the waist so I ironed all the pleats back in and will just shorten it up a bit past the damage and see i I need to drop the crotch or not, so I'll bestarting that as soon as I'm done making the new hakama I started a decade ago when I made the shredded one (I'm down to attaching the side seams, ties and hemming, I just took the koshita and ties off the wrecked one). Though for doing not-formal hakama I may well try out your first method, way more intuitive if you're not trying to follow a specific folding pattern (a friend has made severaal hakama for other people and has made custom fold templates for eahc person based on math). I'd just make the deeper vents because that's not only traditional but also allows for the whole washroom without entirely disrobing thing. I also found wrap trousers have to go on back first or else they blow open when you walk and show a lot more leg than one might want....
The paper cutouts demonstration us VERY helpful, thank you.
The hakama instructions from Budo Bear have a lot of hints on how to eliminate gaping on their long vents, often it has to do with height differences between the back and front as you're trying to fit a body with hips or belly or a waistline that tilts down at the front, or whatever your physical shape demands.
The whole "getting the pockets to be not only functional but also the privacy panels" has been what's holding me up in my head, which starts steaming when I try to think through how to get it to work with front tied on first. Extra bulk from however I do the pockets will actually be appreciated cause I've got precious little hip to keep my pants up.
I usually wear my hakama over gi pants, so there's no just dropping the back (and I go back and forth over front tied first or back tied first depending on whether I'm doing Aikido or Iaido), I have to completely disrobe to use the washroom and that's NOT a selling point forr something I want to actually wear in real life, not just for a couple hours at the dojo. I've got the crotch cutouts from the new hakama to make pockets so if that works it'll be really convenient for future attempts, I've got some nice plaid flannel to make my house hakama out of for an actual mockup before I use nice fabric for a pair I might wear out of the house.
Omg I’m so excited for this video Ash! I had a thought during your collab discussion if you’re open to feedback (no worries if not).
I noticed you had some static-ish noise in the background while you were talking. I know this is kinda an easy fix in any audio editing software such as Audacity, there’s lots of tutorials for this if you search “noise reduction”. I personally find that kinda noise a touch distracting and think it would make things more crisp feeling if it was fixed. This is just a suggestion though and if you’re not too fussed with it don’t worry about it.
Love your work❤
Love seeing the two of you together! It's a great challenge to make this style of pant. Back in the 90's there was a pant that had a triangle of fabric on the too of both front and back of the pants, side seam was sewn then Velcro was added to the side flap and centre front. There were no pockets which I'm sure Charlie can overcome. They were some what adjustable. Looking forward to seeing what else people come up with.
Seconded. Collaborations are wonderful. Especially when the result is adjustable clothing. Well done.
Hey Robin! Hope you're doing well.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
@@stevezytveld6585 hey Cathy things are good. How about you?
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 OK. For some reason I'm unreasonably tired. Trying to work around it - mixed results at best.
How you doing? What 'cha working on?
Right now I'm watching the Convoy anniversary march happening in my neighbourhood. Just spotted one of the guys who was protesting Pride over the summer - not surprised, really.
@@stevezytveld6585 Cathy are they behaving? I’m having a hard time believing that they are still at it. The world is crazy!
I’m trying to figure out how to pattern a dowager hump. It’s very pronounced and she’s not really well enough to do fittings. So right now the plan is to add extra into the back and pleat it into the sleeves. I also have to make her masks and hats. She’s not a hat person but said that she might like some funky ones.
Other than that I’m still in a battle to clean and organize everything! Of course I’m as usual tired I made the pharmacy give me the brand of my thyroid meds I was on before they started changing things. Hopefully that will help. I hate when they do that. They gave me two answers as to why they did it which is just annoying!
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 So far the truck nuts are behaving. Bunch of whinny little Jan 6th wannabes. Surprisingly there didn't seem to be any Drumph flags this time.
Looks like they're settling in for a rave on The Hill tonight. And a rematch for tomorrow afternoon. Blech...! There were, my estimate, around 600 of them. Which is way too many for this stage of the game...
Oooh, patterning for a dowager hump - can you do a version of a Full Bust Adjustment? Similar to when you want to kick out more fabric in front of your belly? Point the darts towards the shoulder seam - leave in enough excess fabric for an extra dart or two?? Agreed that moving the excess into the sleeves should work.
Later this week, if postage is kind to me, I'll be trying out the lace bobbins for the first time. It's my workaround for attempting to make progress on the me-made wardrobe while everything is still in a state of partially being dismantled. Sorting. Sigh. Piles to go through before I rest...
Pharmacies seem to be having issues across the board right now. I know people in both provinces and everyone is dealing with screw ups. Weird. Disconcerting. And a real way to unnecessarily burn through time and energy...
Sorry they're putting you through that. Especially for the thyroid medication. Humbug to that.
I have been thinking about whether this is possible since I watched your skirt video!! You're incredible :D
A comment for the algorithm gods.
Perhaps you could try adding a gusset in the crotch. It could be helpful when lowering the back for the toilet.
So excited!!! Great collaboration and I j love the honest review of the process and results
I haven't made a pair of pants since the 90's. Maybe I'll give them another try?😅
Hmmmm you could put a waistband on that has hook and eye or buttons front and pack. I’m at 20:49
So great!!!
I struggle with mock ups because i always want to WEAR my mock ups and never want to take them apart for patterning.
The 2nd pair look very Fashion, especially with the ruching at the bottom.
I’m in. I want to try it.
I'm not to sure about the trousers but I def wanna do a skirt
I find myself filled with a great and powerful need. Welp, off to the fabric store!
Really enjoyed this collab with two lovely people x
Would a button or tie/loop/fastener on either side allow you to make larger splits so that you can just drop the back when in the bathroom? Seems like potential.
This was neat! Thanks for sharing. At some point I'd live to see someone demonstrate that these side split adjustable clothing items really do/can look satisfactory when your body has fluctuated to different sizes. That would be useful!
Thanks for all you do! 🎉
Thank you soooo much for the paper examples, so helpful for understanding what you're doing as you make the actual thing.
The paper model helps so much I always struggle remembering how the pants go together!
The plaid pair are totally secret pants!
You know, if the leg is wide enough, you don't need to undo the back panel to go to the restroom. You can come up from the hem of one leg and just move your underwear to the side.
These kind of pants also reminded me of the pants that Whoopi Goldberg's character made in The Color Purple.
Just had a thought I didn't think of it before when I first watched it but one the pair that Charlie was showing that she called pirate style to stop it from gaping you cud add a couple snap fasteners there which it won't matter how much u move because it will hold it in place you can get some decorative snap fasteners
Also I did think weather they can both tie at the sides and where u need a overlap cud add some ruffles there which will give some coverage I do plan to try it out but I seam to have a list of make wants atm my daughter keeps asking me for plus still working on her prom dress I dnt use Instagram or most steaming platforms so I won't be able to share my creation but I do plan on giving it a go
Awesome!! Thanks
HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY!!!!! ❤ I really appreciate this as I want to add some trouser-like garments to my wardrobe this coming summer. 😊
So could you make instructions to make... these trousers, but not split-side, and with elastics and pockets?
Like, I really want to make just some comfy, roomy trousers with the kinda wide leg, but not split-side, and I don't want to deal with ties because I have hand/wrist problems.
I like the idea of adjustable clothing, so I'm down for gathering so you could adjust the elastics. I'm losing weight so I would like to think I can fix it if they get too big.
Can you do that based on this?? I would love it so much!
My brain is trying to remind me that fall front breeches are kind of a weird split side item since the fall only attaches at the top.
Still not sewing trousers though. I just don't wear them.
I'm almost wondering if you could treat the side openings like some sort of unsewn adjustable dart? At the smallest the dart just closes entirely and tucks away, but then you could just not close it as much if need be. Not solving the bathroom conundrum but possibly making them able to be more fitted maybe possibly?
I've seen mens wrap trousers that just have a giant waist that you fold and tie. They still weren't fitted, but would fix a gapping problem.
Ive been thinking about how i want to tackle these pants. I first saw them on my friend at Ren faire amd have wanted them ever since
Yay!
I have a commercial pattern for wrap pants…. I think I’ll start with that.
I'm curious about the two layers at the waist, especially in the back.After wearing the pants for a bit,moving around, how much do the separate waists show? Do the ties tend to pop up from under the fabric waist? What could be done to prevent that? Perhaps sewing a hook onto the fabric waistband that could hook onto the ribbon/tie/cord waist and keep the cords below the main fabric waistband?
These vaguely remind me of a retro/vintage maternity pants pattern I saw once... I wonder if finding that would provide some insight in adapting to split side pants?
What about drafting the pattern to accomodate the crotch shape, rather than the crotch measurement. Example if you have a tummy and bubble butt the shape of the crotch will be different. Just wondering.
Oh I'm thinking very hard right now ...
So what if you started with a darted pattern, but instead of sewing the darts closed, you make that the adjustment? Maybe you have to make the dart legs longer to give enough adjustability, and you might need it on the front darts and back darts.. Then you could close the sides, have your pockets normally, but maybe tiny ties on the darts..
I just started sewing but couldn't you modify fall front trousers so the fall front is on the inside and the pockets were on the side seam?
Hmmm..... Having seen this, it seem that if I just sew up the open legs of my usual wrap-around trousers, leaving a gap at the top, I'll have a version of these that works.... {looks speculatively at the two matching pairs of wrap-around trousers he made at New Year}.... I might just try it on a pair I've already made and see if that's the case.
My wrap-around trouser pattern is much sumpler than your three-piece-per-leg as it's just one-piece-per-leg (each leg is essentially a rectangle with a U shape cut out of the top edge for the crotch, so there's no inside leg seam(s) and no extension -that's just overlap all the way down, tough I coudl shape i to get rid of the extra fabric below the join if I'm sewing up the side seams). If I want it more fitted and less gathered/pleated at the waist, I add darts on the waist edge (usually, I can't be bothered and just give them an elastic waist)
Hakama or Japanese field pants right there
Would it be weird to put a center front opening like a zipper or buttons plus the split sides?
Do I need to get a serger??
70s envelope pants
Maybe used the pattern of a skirt pants you know like the ones that were use to ride horses in the series of bonanza
If the front ties first, you would the trousers would not sit on a filthy floor when you need to do your business
I have a skirt from the 1980s that has the closure in the pocket. I never see that in patterns or ready to wear anymore. Odd that it has vanished. 🤷♀️🧵✨