Dude you saved my sanity. Couldn't find any builds like this and I luckily bought roughly the same stuff. First build so fingers crossed. Much appreciated video
How do you have so much room using the 03 air unit and then you even put a vifly mini beeper in between the FC & 03 air unit .... I did a AOS v2 3.5 build using a 20x20. Mamba Stack - MK4 F722 FC + 40A 3-6S BLHeli_32 128K ESC and Caddx Nebula Pro Vista Kit with a vifly mini 2 which is sitting in a mount at back in a gps tray mount... My stack and my air unit are kissing 💋 each other so I'm curious how you have so much room?
Hi loaderqsf, nothing magical as you saw from the video, but to answer your question, with the iFlight Beast F745A AOI, I am measuring 20mm between the back of my AOI board and the O3 Airunit. I did leave my motor wires long enough to create a pocket for the the Vifly mini. Not sure how you have your motor wires routed but one trick is to come from underneath and solder them on the bottom side. Of course coming off the sides with the motor wires also gives you more room front to back. SLOG
Hi, Thanks for the comment! I just looked at a flight doing what I call "park acro" and I was getting around 4:58 (~5min). My voltage was 14.3 (3.57 per cell) when I landed. So it does really well with my type of flying. Of course your results may vary based on how hard you push it. SLOG
Hi Gonzalo, the pinout has changed between the O3 air unit and the original DJI air unit or Vista. The flight controller I used is older. So point being you need to look at the pinout on the flight controller vs pinout on the new O3 air unit. Even if it looks like the cables and connectors match. SLOG
Thanks for this very interesting build. I have just started my build of the AOS 3.5 1.2. How did you shorten the cables of the VTX antenna to fit in the provided TPU? Did you just fold the excess wires under the unit? Thanks again for sharing.
Hello, if you are running a camera mount it might be a little tight. However, If you come out the back with the pigtail, you should be fine. This quad actually has a long top plate for a 3.5 inch quad. SLOG
Dude you're amazing, I just did this build thanks to your video. I am haveing trouble with a PID tune and am getting brutal flyways, could you upload yours or point me in the right direction?
Hello, thanks for the comment! Not sure what flight controller you are using but if it is a whoop 25x25 AIO style, you need to align the board yaw by 45 degrees. Type in the the following CLI commands: "set align_board_yaw = 45" "save" Check your FC alignment by looking at the setup tab in Betaflight configurator (Move quad to make sure axis movement look correct). If you are looking for a great preset for this build, please refer to my following MouseFPV preset tune review video: th-cam.com/video/4Veh71Vnl6o/w-d-xo.html Cheers, SLOG
If you're still around j.bardwell showed me a video he had done one youtube showing how to wire elrs to sbus as long as firmware can be converted to 3.3. These happy models can. But if i wanted to do an air unit that required sbus then would that take up my sbus slot? I'm new to the hobby and would like to learn something. I was also unsure how you said that you were setting up the option to use either the elrs or the air unit...does that mean you can fly with only the air unit or do you still need the air unit as an rx.
Hi @unluckiestnumber7172, flight controllers usually have spare UARTS to connect your ELRS receiver to. Point being, if you plan on switching between an ELRS Radio Controller and the DJI RC2, you would not want to connect the ELRS receiver to SBUS, as that is what the DJI RC2 uses. Of course this requires making changes in the Betaflight Configurator to accomplish this. The only reason why I mentioned this is for those pilots who only have the DJI RC2 as a Radio Controller. Just for clarity, the SBUS connection is not required to get video feed in your goggles from the air unit. The SBUS connection is used for RC control of the quad. If you do not have a DJI RC2, you don't need to connect up the SBUS (I just do to give me options). SLOG
Great video man! I'm glad I found you! I have built many quads but never a smaller quad. This gives me an idea of what to use as far as motors and stuff. How has it been for you over the last 11 months lol?? Newly subbed!
Hi @OTRFlyer, Thanks for the feedback! For the last 11 months this quickly became my favorite freestyle quad. I love the way this quad flies. I have had no issues with durability but I do not fly around concrete. If you are into sub250 3.5 inch builds, I think this is the one. There is a new AOS 3.5 V5 that is an updated frame that you should check out. Cheers, SLOG
haha it's crazy how big of a difference motors make to the weight. I just did a build with this frame and I'm about 70 grams heavier than you and 56 of those grams come from my motors being 2105 and not using an AIO. I was watching your video and kept saying to myself "why the hell is my aos 3.5 so damn heavy?!?!" haha great video bro!
Hi @BeautyBeastRC, yes I had to keep every gram in mind to keep this build under 250g. Motor choice and the AIO helped out a lot. However, I am sure with the 2105 motors you will not be lacking in throttle response😁 Cheers, SLOG
Thanks! You will like the quality of the video feed! Just waiting for the weather to improve. -6 F this weekend and Monday for lows. Guess it is whooping weather. SLOG
Hi Kim, Purchased from RaceDayQuads.com 25mm version. Comes in different colors. www.racedayquads.com/products/clracing-race-led-choose-your-color-1pc?variant=12988450603121 SLOG
Awesome build video! I'm building my first quad and just ordered this same frame. I'm swapping everything from my Cinebot30 o3 6s over to this frame. I'm concerned that my motors (1804s 2450kv) might be too much though. Two questions if you don't mind, do you have a link to the race wire you're using? Also what are your thoughts on using 1804 motors on a build like this?
Hi Jessiah, the Cinebot30 is a significantly heavier quad so I would say the 1804s are overkill (just add weight). Chris Rosser (frame designer) recommends the following if you want something larger than a 1404: "3.5" Freestyle benefit from a slightly larger motor. 1504/1505 is my recommendation and Brotherhobby has a good reputation for quality and performance. 2950KV on 4S is my recommendation". Link to racewire: www.racedayquads.com/products/clracing-race-led-choose-your-color-1pc?variant=12988432941169 SLOG
I first tried 1404 motors but they ended up not providing quite enough thrust. Moved up to 1505 (using the same HQ 3525 props) and its been a much better experience. Would have loved to bump up to 16mm, but I really love these t-mount props.
I like the 1404 motors for keeping the build weight down (chasing grams) but I can see why a little more grunt would be appealing. Chris Rosser recommend both size motors so good choice. SLOG
Hey mate I loved the video. Just curious, as someone who hasn’t built a drone and just uses the dji fpv drone, what are the pros/ cons of building a drone with the dji system as opposed to just using the dji drone itself? What type of battery time would you expect ect?
Good question. Here are the pros over the DJI FPV quad (assuming you are not talking about the Avata cinewhoop): It is lighter, nimbler, better at freestyle, has a better camera (O3 airunit and camera), way more crash tolerant, easily repaired when you do crash it and it is under 250 grams so you don’t have to register it (or worry about remote ID) in the US unless you are using it for commercial purposes (e.g. using as a chase quad for commercials). The cons are harder to learn how to fly, none of the DJI safety features, shorter flight times and probably not as good in windy conditions (way lighter). As far as flight times, I am getting around 5 min, not as good as the DJI FPV quad but you can always carry a lager battery and squeeze out 7 to 8 min but you would be over 250g. Hope this helps, SLOG
nice build. I'm planning basically the same and it's great to see the walkthrough. You may have seen by now, but Flywoo and GepRC have O3 filters that attach vertically and don't need any extra horizontal width. The Flywoo only sticks out at the top (unlike GepRC top and bottom) so it may be a better fit for this frame. Thanks for the video!
@rainponcho, glad you found the video useful. Very fun build and so far, my favorite freestyle quad. I just really like the form factor. On the filters, I saw that on a Flywoo quad. Nice filter. Hoping GetFPV or RDQ will start carrying it. Thanks for sharing! SLOG
Actually, I can reach the button with a hex driver but that is not how I disarm the buzzer. The buzzer I have you reset by plugging the battery back in for ~3seconds and then unplug it. It beeps 3 times indicating it is disarmed. SLOG
Hey there, your video is literally invaluable to me! Thank you for taking the time to walk us through the process. I'm building a similar build as a first drone. Would you be able to elaborate on how you mounted your flight controller? The one I have is a T-MOTOR Mini F7 Stack, and the mounting bolts are way to thick for the AoS 3.5 frame. What size bolts did you use specifically, because I'm assuming using smaller bolts would lead to potential vibrations if mounted incorrectly?
I am glad to hear the video has been useful to you. The AIO board I have came with M2 x 12mm bolts and looking at your stack, it appears they are M3 bolts. The easiest thing to do is drill out the holes with a 1/8 drill bit. Make sure to clean off the carbon fiber dust (conductive). The other option is buy a M2 screw set (handy to have) and use a plastic washers on top and bottom of the rubber grommets and a nut on the top. Also, I always recommend using a nut below the stack to give the stack bolts rigidity. You should be ok but the first option is better. Cheers, SLOG
I haven't done an 03 config for my frame yet but you'd like my 3.5 frame super smooth & locked in on stock betaflight, will be doing dji, hdzero builds soon and a cine pusher too
@@slogfpv5679 thank you I have been corresponding with the frame designer. He states that he is working on an even newer version to fit ND filters. I think that's important because, supposedly, the DJI EIS requires a shutter speed of 300 or greater FPS. So, to get motion blur, turn off EIS and manually expose to the 180 rule. Finally stabalize in Gyroflow. Personally, I don't like stabaluzation. It puts me to sleep, and that workflow is a lot of effort, but I do want motion blur.
@@richardruckert7954 thanks for the tips! Good to hear adjustments are being made to the frame to fix the ND filter support. Hopefully it is a retro fit vs a new frame. I use ND filters even on my Runcam Thumb. Gives motion blur and reduces jello. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 regarding the runcam thumb, I have the insta 360 go 2. Jello was a big problem, but I've discovered that if I record in LOG color profile...no jello, ever. Don't know if runcam has LOG, but you might check.
@@richardruckert7954 the Rancam Thumb 4K does have a flat color profile but not a true LOG. Actually the Thumb is not too bad for jello if you have it soft mounted in TPU mount. Great tip on the Insta 360 go 2. I have one but I could only fix the jello with very flexible TPU mounts. SLOG
Chris Rosser does a great job with his frame designs. I am sure your build will be a great freestyle quad for 2023. The DJI O3 air unit has a next level video feed and I love I don't have to strap on a camera to get halfway decent DVR recording. Have fun! SLOG
No issues so far other than range is obviously not as good as a regular antenna. I have used Happymodel, BetaFPV and Flywoo versions on sub 250 gram builds before and they all perform about the same. I know some people knock off the ceramic antenna. BetaFPV has one that has a flat canister type antenna that is very low profile. If you are bando bashing, I would go with the tried and true TBS Crossfire even though it has more latency. I was chasing grams with this build and I just happened to have this receiver on hand. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 I actually ended up switching to 915mhz ELRS and it's been so much better for me. The typical location I am flying at apparently has massive 2.4ghz interference so my issue was with all 2.4ghz receivers. thanks for the reply!
The motors are - iFlight XING2 1404 3800KV and the props are - EMAX Scimitar 3.5x2.8x3. A full parts list is in the video description and also in the video. Cheers, SLOG
I just built one of these a month ago with, 20mm mamba mk4 stack, o3, 1504.5 brotherhobby motors, 4S, and i find myself flying it over all of my other quads. Its very fun to fly! Only problem I have to fix is to replace the flight controller, because the Fc has the 42688 gyro and its terrible. I cant tune it or it wants to do a flyaway. Only reason it flies now is because of a betaflight preset but could be better. Also, i had to dremel part of the camera mounts to fit a 20mm stack, or it would be touching. Could of put the o3 unit in the front but i didnt want to buy another longer cable antenna so... Other than that, i love it. Great build by the way!
Agree with you on this being my favorite size freestyle quad. I think the 3.5 inch form factor is a sweet spot with a good balance of being nibble, more quiet, longer flight times and still has some fling mass for freestyle. If you go with a whoop style AIO board make sure you adjust for the board alignment "set align_board_yaw = 45 " Cheers, SLOG
Unfortunately not but Flywoos will since they have narrower filters. www.racedayquads.com/products/flywoo-dji-o3-air-unit-camera-filters-choose-your-nd?variant=40167706067057 Chris has come out with a newer version of this frame called the AOS 3.5 O3 Evo so if you have not ordered the older frame I would pick up the Evo version. It will support the larger ND filters like the Freewell. SLOG
Hi Jan, on the bench in ultra wide, I do not see props in view with the camera angle I fly which is low (20 degrees). However, I only fly in wide, so not sure in bright sun you will not see prop shadow in ultra wide. Hope this helps, SLOG
@@jgrudnicki I think because the frame is designed to be very quiet as far as frame resonance goes, it will have less frame resonance issues with the camera. Of course the motor noise will still couple into the camera since it is hard mounted. So you could argue some form of isolation between the camera and the frame is better. However in practice, I have had no issues (you can see from the videos). I even ran it through Gyro Flow and did not have any issues with the internal camera gyro. My understanding there are some O3 cameras (batch related) that are more sensitive (I think some people are gluing the lens housing down??). Anyway, all good with my O3 camera and build. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 i just realized that if purchased from iflight, this frame actually comes with soft mount for the camera. I guess that puts this concern to bed. 😃
Hi Pedro, yes it looks like there is a newer AOS 3.5 O3 frame with a TPU O3 camera mount insert. I found the same updated frame at DefianceRC. I went ahead and ordered it as a backup for when I tear up this frame www.defiancerc.com/collections/frames/products/aos-rc-aos-3-5-o3-fpv-frame-kit Thanks, SLOG
I really like the 3.5 inch size quads. Probably the future for freestyle given the restrictions coming out in a lot of countries like the US and remote ID. Have fun.
Yes agree and why I went with the AIO board over a traditional stack . Also saves some weight. Thanks for the comment so others know to pay attention to stack height. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Well, i put a Stack (Diatone Mamba Mini) in there, had to get quite creative with stand-offs. It now consists of two washers and a rubber seal. :)
No jello but each time you pushed the Quad there was lots of prop wash and its the disturbed airflow from the brace,s on the arms. I would like to see some hard Arco with a decent c rated lipo to see how smooth that style frame really is
Agree on the prop wash with the default 4.4 tune with RMP filtering. Really needs to be tuned when there is no snow on the ground for this old guy to crash into and blowing an esc. The only video I can link is the V1 version of this frame from Chris Rosser doing more aggressive freestyle ( better pilot than me) which does have arm braces. I am sure they do cause air turbulence for the FC to deal with but it's a trade off between frame resonnance noise and aerodynamics (Chris Rosser does a good job at explaining the design choices). th-cam.com/video/-Iempg4wfgs/w-d-xo.html SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Nice build, I made one very similar. using the Mousefpv AOS 3.5 preset in BF 4.3. flies beautifully. Give the preset a try; I highly recommend it
@@bartbutler9960 thanks for validating that the Mousefpv AOS3.5 preset is a good one to use. Will load it and see how well it does once the weather warms up.
Dude you saved my sanity. Couldn't find any builds like this and I luckily bought roughly the same stuff. First build so fingers crossed. Much appreciated video
Glad the video helped and thanks for the feedback! Good luck on your build.
SLOG
Great video and build, watching from South Wales in the UK.
Thanks for watching my video from the other side of the pond glad you found it useful!
Cheers,
SLOG
Great build and video. Thank you
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
SLOG
Great looking build thanks for sharing happy flying
Thanks for the feedback!
Great looking build. I hope you get blue sky's ahead.
Thanks! Yes it has been very overcast for several months now (not typical).
Been living on Maui and the past two years it's been crazy windy 30 to 40 mph on the northern side of the Island.
@@winder6 Good for crazy 😀surfers but even a 5inch quad would not be happy in those winds.
Thank you, I think I will get one of these as my first FPV drone but not with the Dji
Thanks for the response 👍
great video brother I like that frame 3.5 AOS from Christ . I want to get a 5 inch AOS for my next build . thank u for the video.
Thanks for the feedback! I think you’ll like the 5inch.
How do you have so much room using the 03 air unit and then you even put a vifly mini beeper in between the FC & 03 air unit ....
I did a AOS v2 3.5 build using a 20x20. Mamba Stack - MK4 F722 FC + 40A 3-6S BLHeli_32 128K ESC and Caddx Nebula Pro Vista Kit with a vifly mini 2 which is sitting in a mount at back in a gps tray mount...
My stack and my air unit are kissing 💋 each other so I'm curious how you have so much room?
Hi loaderqsf, nothing magical as you saw from the video, but to answer your question, with the iFlight Beast F745A AOI, I am measuring 20mm between the back of my AOI board and the O3 Airunit. I did leave my motor wires long enough to create a pocket for the the Vifly mini. Not sure how you have your motor wires routed but one trick is to come from underneath and solder them on the bottom side. Of course coming off the sides with the motor wires also gives you more room front to back.
SLOG
Hey great video, I am planning a very similar build. I wanted to know how much flight time you get running the GNB 850mah's with this frame? thanks!
Hi,
Thanks for the comment! I just looked at a flight doing what I call "park acro" and I was getting around 4:58 (~5min). My voltage was 14.3 (3.57 per cell) when I landed. So it does really well with my type of flying. Of course your results may vary based on how hard you push it.
SLOG
hello slug, why you didnt use the cable direct from the air unit to the fc? why you solder instead of connecting? thanks and awsome build!
Hi Gonzalo, the pinout has changed between the O3 air unit and the original DJI air unit or Vista. The flight controller I used is older. So point being you need to look at the pinout on the flight controller vs pinout on the new O3 air unit. Even if it looks like the cables and connectors match.
SLOG
Thanks for this very interesting build. I have just started my build of the AOS 3.5 1.2. How did you shorten the cables of the VTX antenna to fit in the provided TPU? Did you just fold the excess wires under the unit? Thanks again for sharing.
Sorry for the late reply. Did not see this in my notification. I just folded the wires in opposite directions.
Planning an 8s AOS 3.5 build mainly came here to see if 2 of those 850mah 4s would fit on top of the frame, looks like they should be fine
Hello, if you are running a camera mount it might be a little tight. However, If you come out the back with the pigtail, you should be fine. This quad actually has a long top plate for a 3.5 inch quad.
SLOG
Dude you're amazing, I just did this build thanks to your video. I am haveing trouble with a PID tune and am getting brutal flyways, could you upload yours or point me in the right direction?
Hello, thanks for the comment! Not sure what flight controller you are using but if it is a whoop 25x25 AIO style, you need to align the board yaw by 45 degrees. Type in the the following CLI commands:
"set align_board_yaw = 45"
"save"
Check your FC alignment by looking at the setup tab in Betaflight configurator (Move quad to make sure axis movement look correct).
If you are looking for a great preset for this build, please refer to my following MouseFPV preset tune review video: th-cam.com/video/4Veh71Vnl6o/w-d-xo.html
Cheers,
SLOG
About 30 mins before you posted this, realized EXACTLY this issue. Thank you for the response, I was going crazy trying to figure out that problem.
If you're still around j.bardwell showed me a video he had done one youtube showing how to wire elrs to sbus as long as firmware can be converted to 3.3. These happy models can. But if i wanted to do an air unit that required sbus then would that take up my sbus slot? I'm new to the hobby and would like to learn something. I was also unsure how you said that you were setting up the option to use either the elrs or the air unit...does that mean you can fly with only the air unit or do you still need the air unit as an rx.
Hi @unluckiestnumber7172, flight controllers usually have spare UARTS to connect your ELRS receiver to. Point being, if you plan on switching between an ELRS Radio Controller and the DJI RC2, you would not want to connect the ELRS receiver to SBUS, as that is what the DJI RC2 uses. Of course this requires making changes in the Betaflight Configurator to accomplish this. The only reason why I mentioned this is for those pilots who only have the DJI RC2 as a Radio Controller.
Just for clarity, the SBUS connection is not required to get video feed in your goggles from the air unit. The SBUS connection is used for RC control of the quad. If you do not have a DJI RC2, you don't need to connect up the SBUS (I just do to give me options).
SLOG
Nice build video! It was very helpful for planning my own AOS 3.5 O3 build (just waiting for motors and my AIO to arrive)
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback.
It's amazing the video we can get out of a micro these days. Keeping it under the legal limit is a bonus for sure.
Yes it is. This tech is improving at a very rapid pace.
Great video man! I'm glad I found you! I have built many quads but never a smaller quad. This gives me an idea of what to use as far as motors and stuff. How has it been for you over the last 11 months lol?? Newly subbed!
Hi @OTRFlyer, Thanks for the feedback! For the last 11 months this quickly became my favorite freestyle quad. I love the way this quad flies. I have had no issues with durability but I do not fly around concrete. If you are into sub250 3.5 inch builds, I think this is the one. There is a new AOS 3.5 V5 that is an updated frame that you should check out.
Cheers,
SLOG
haha it's crazy how big of a difference motors make to the weight. I just did a build with this frame and I'm about 70 grams heavier than you and 56 of those grams come from my motors being 2105 and not using an AIO. I was watching your video and kept saying to myself "why the hell is my aos 3.5 so damn heavy?!?!" haha great video bro!
Hi @BeautyBeastRC, yes I had to keep every gram in mind to keep this build under 250g. Motor choice and the AIO helped out a lot. However, I am sure with the 2105 motors you will not be lacking in throttle response😁
Cheers,
SLOG
Great build. Just finishing an 03 quad as well.
Thanks! You will like the quality of the video feed! Just waiting for the weather to improve. -6 F this weekend and Monday for lows. Guess it is whooping weather.
SLOG
Shot in the dark, do you remember where you purchased your CLRacing Race LED from?
Hi Kim, Purchased from RaceDayQuads.com 25mm version. Comes in different colors. www.racedayquads.com/products/clracing-race-led-choose-your-color-1pc?variant=12988450603121
SLOG
I'm building an o3 3.5 build and was looking for a good frame. I think this is the one I like your setup
Thanks and this was a relatively easy build. I don't think you can go wrong with this frame.
Awesome build video! I'm building my first quad and just ordered this same frame. I'm swapping everything from my Cinebot30 o3 6s over to this frame. I'm concerned that my motors (1804s 2450kv) might be too much though. Two questions if you don't mind, do you have a link to the race wire you're using? Also what are your thoughts on using 1804 motors on a build like this?
Hi Jessiah, the Cinebot30 is a significantly heavier quad so I would say the 1804s are overkill (just add weight). Chris Rosser (frame designer) recommends the following if you want something larger than a 1404:
"3.5" Freestyle benefit from a slightly larger motor. 1504/1505 is my recommendation and Brotherhobby has a good reputation for quality and performance. 2950KV on 4S is my recommendation".
Link to racewire:
www.racedayquads.com/products/clracing-race-led-choose-your-color-1pc?variant=12988432941169
SLOG
Hey! Great build! What was the final weigh in with battery?
Thanks! 248 grams with the GNB 850 mAh 4S battery I am running in the video. SLOG
I first tried 1404 motors but they ended up not providing quite enough thrust. Moved up to 1505 (using the same HQ 3525 props) and its been a much better experience. Would have loved to bump up to 16mm, but I really love these t-mount props.
I like the 1404 motors for keeping the build weight down (chasing grams) but I can see why a little more grunt would be appealing. Chris Rosser recommend both size motors so good choice.
SLOG
what KV?
@@ChrisParayno thought your question was directed to Matthew. For my build I used xing 1404 3800kV motor’s running 4S batteries.
SLOG
Hey mate I loved the video. Just curious, as someone who hasn’t built a drone and just uses the dji fpv drone, what are the pros/ cons of building a drone with the dji system as opposed to just using the dji drone itself? What type of battery time would you expect ect?
Good question. Here are the pros over the DJI FPV quad (assuming you are not talking about the Avata cinewhoop):
It is lighter, nimbler, better at freestyle, has a better camera (O3 airunit and camera), way more crash tolerant, easily repaired when you do crash it and it is under 250 grams so you don’t have to register it (or worry about remote ID) in the US unless you are using it for commercial purposes (e.g. using as a chase quad for commercials).
The cons are harder to learn how to fly, none of the DJI safety features, shorter flight times and probably not as good in windy conditions (way lighter).
As far as flight times, I am getting around 5 min, not as good as the DJI FPV quad but you can always carry a lager battery and squeeze out 7 to 8 min but you would be over 250g.
Hope this helps,
SLOG
Love your channel name! I am also a SLOG :D
Glad you like it. Every year I get older, I feel like I earn the name even more.
Cheers to a fellow SLOG
nice build. I'm planning basically the same and it's great to see the walkthrough. You may have seen by now, but Flywoo and GepRC have O3 filters that attach vertically and don't need any extra horizontal width. The Flywoo only sticks out at the top (unlike GepRC top and bottom) so it may be a better fit for this frame. Thanks for the video!
@rainponcho, glad you found the video useful. Very fun build and so far, my favorite freestyle quad. I just really like the form factor.
On the filters, I saw that on a Flywoo quad. Nice filter. Hoping GetFPV or RDQ will start carrying it. Thanks for sharing!
SLOG
How do you hit the buzzer button with such placement deep inside in the frame?
Actually, I can reach the button with a hex driver but that is not how I disarm the buzzer. The buzzer I have you reset by plugging the battery back in for ~3seconds and then unplug it. It beeps 3 times indicating it is disarmed.
SLOG
Hey there, your video is literally invaluable to me! Thank you for taking the time to walk us through the process. I'm building a similar build as a first drone. Would you be able to elaborate on how you mounted your flight controller? The one I have is a T-MOTOR Mini F7 Stack, and the mounting bolts are way to thick for the AoS 3.5 frame. What size bolts did you use specifically, because I'm assuming using smaller bolts would lead to potential vibrations if mounted incorrectly?
I am glad to hear the video has been useful to you. The AIO board I have came with M2 x 12mm bolts and looking at your stack, it appears they are M3 bolts. The easiest thing to do is drill out the holes with a 1/8 drill bit. Make sure to clean off the carbon fiber dust (conductive). The other option is buy a M2 screw set (handy to have) and use a plastic washers on top and bottom of the rubber grommets and a nut on the top. Also, I always recommend using a nut below the stack to give the stack bolts rigidity. You should be ok but the first option is better.
Cheers,
SLOG
Went with the first option and it worked perfectly. Thanks again!
do you remember the standoff width for the tpu vtx mount
With calipers I measuring 4mm SLOG
I haven't done an 03 config for my frame yet but you'd like my 3.5 frame super smooth & locked in on stock betaflight, will be doing dji, hdzero builds soon and a cine pusher too
Sounds cool!
@@slogfpv5679 here it is th-cam.com/video/4_clXXG00hY/w-d-xo.html will update soon for more mounting options!
Hi…thank you for this
Were you not able to use the nd filters because of the camera plates?
Sorry I missed this comment but no I am not using the ND filters I have for the Avata. Will not fit.
@@slogfpv5679 thank you
I have been corresponding with the frame designer. He states that he is working on an even newer version to fit ND filters.
I think that's important because, supposedly, the DJI EIS requires a shutter speed of 300 or greater FPS.
So, to get motion blur, turn off EIS and manually expose to the 180 rule. Finally stabalize in Gyroflow.
Personally, I don't like stabaluzation. It puts me to sleep, and that workflow is a lot of effort, but I do want motion blur.
@@richardruckert7954 thanks for the tips! Good to hear adjustments are being made to the frame to fix the ND filter support. Hopefully it is a retro fit vs a new frame. I use ND filters even on my Runcam Thumb. Gives motion blur and reduces jello. SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 regarding the runcam thumb, I have the insta 360 go 2. Jello was a big problem, but I've discovered that if I record in LOG color profile...no jello, ever.
Don't know if runcam has LOG, but you might check.
@@richardruckert7954 the Rancam Thumb 4K does have a flat color profile but not a true LOG. Actually the Thumb is not too bad for jello if you have it soft mounted in TPU mount. Great tip on the Insta 360 go 2. I have one but I could only fix the jello with very flexible TPU mounts. SLOG
Nice! I’m about halfway finished with an AOS UL5 O3 build that I’m very excited about!
Chris Rosser does a great job with his frame designs. I am sure your build will be a great freestyle quad for 2023. The DJI O3 air unit has a next level video feed and I love I don't have to strap on a camera to get halfway decent DVR recording.
Have fun!
SLOG
How's the EP2 receiver been treating you? I've had all kinds of issues with those unfortunately
No issues so far other than range is obviously not as good as a regular antenna. I have used Happymodel, BetaFPV and Flywoo versions on sub 250 gram builds before and they all perform about the same. I know some people knock off the ceramic antenna. BetaFPV has one that has a flat canister type antenna that is very low profile. If you are bando bashing, I would go with the tried and true TBS Crossfire even though it has more latency. I was chasing grams with this build and I just happened to have this receiver on hand.
SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 I actually ended up switching to 915mhz ELRS and it's been so much better for me. The typical location I am flying at apparently has massive 2.4ghz interference so my issue was with all 2.4ghz receivers. thanks for the reply!
Amazing frame i think buy one and put under INAV
Yes this is frame light enough to run a small GPS.
Great video! Just a heads up though, that is not a AOS Cine35 as listed in the title.
Thanks Bennie! Senior moment getting the names off of the AOS-RC website At least I got the thumbnail correct 😃Corrected the title.
Cheers,
SLOG
What motors/props are you running?
The motors are - iFlight XING2 1404 3800KV and the props are - EMAX Scimitar 3.5x2.8x3. A full parts list is in the video description and also in the video.
Cheers,
SLOG
I just built one of these a month ago with, 20mm mamba mk4 stack, o3, 1504.5 brotherhobby motors, 4S, and i find myself flying it over all of my other quads. Its very fun to fly! Only problem I have to fix is to replace the flight controller, because the Fc has the 42688 gyro and its terrible. I cant tune it or it wants to do a flyaway. Only reason it flies now is because of a betaflight preset but could be better. Also, i had to dremel part of the camera mounts to fit a 20mm stack, or it would be touching. Could of put the o3 unit in the front but i didnt want to buy another longer cable antenna so... Other than that, i love it. Great build by the way!
Agree with you on this being my favorite size freestyle quad. I think the 3.5 inch form factor is a sweet spot with a good balance of being nibble, more quiet, longer flight times and still has some fling mass for freestyle. If you go with a whoop style AIO board make sure you adjust for the board alignment "set align_board_yaw = 45 "
Cheers,
SLOG
can use Freewell ND filters in O3?
Unfortunately not but Flywoos will since they have narrower filters. www.racedayquads.com/products/flywoo-dji-o3-air-unit-camera-filters-choose-your-nd?variant=40167706067057
Chris has come out with a newer version of this frame called the AOS 3.5 O3 Evo so if you have not ordered the older frame I would pick up the Evo version. It will support the larger ND filters like the Freewell.
SLOG
Are the props out of view in all FOV settings?
Hi Jan, on the bench in ultra wide, I do not see props in view with the camera angle I fly which is low (20 degrees). However, I only fly in wide, so not sure in bright sun you will not see prop shadow in ultra wide.
Hope this helps,
SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 How about vibrations? Is the lack of soft mount for the camera an issue?
@@jgrudnicki I think because the frame is designed to be very quiet as far as frame resonance goes, it will have less frame resonance issues with the camera. Of course the motor noise will still couple into the camera since it is hard mounted. So you could argue some form of isolation between the camera and the frame is better. However in practice, I have had no issues (you can see from the videos). I even ran it through Gyro Flow and did not have any issues with the internal camera gyro. My understanding there are some O3 cameras (batch related) that are more sensitive (I think some people are gluing the lens housing down??). Anyway, all good with my O3 camera and build.
SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 i just realized that if purchased from iflight, this frame actually comes with soft mount for the camera. I guess that puts this concern to bed. 😃
Hello,there is a new aos O3 3.5 with diferent camera mount with silicone inserts
Its made by iflight
Hi Pedro, yes it looks like there is a newer AOS 3.5 O3 frame with a TPU O3 camera mount insert. I found the same updated frame at DefianceRC. I went ahead and ordered it as a backup for when I tear up this frame www.defiancerc.com/collections/frames/products/aos-rc-aos-3-5-o3-fpv-frame-kit
Thanks,
SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 nice!!!
Hi. How much does a drone fly on Average?
With this build (only 4 packs due to weather) I was getting ~5 min with a 850mAh 4S battery not charged to high voltage.
I just built a Volader 3.5 turtlecam 650mah 240grams woooh >:}
I really like the 3.5 inch size quads. Probably the future for freestyle given the restrictions coming out in a lot of countries like the US and remote ID. Have fun.
@@slogfpv5679 I started with micros and always wondered why a 5" such a monster, and they're dangerous. 3.5 4s is the new deal.
There is barely enough room to include a stack, the height is crucial, because the camera mount is in the way!!
Yes agree and why I went with the AIO board over a traditional stack . Also saves some weight.
Thanks for the comment so others know to pay attention to stack height.
SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Well, i put a Stack (Diatone Mamba Mini) in there, had to get quite creative with stand-offs. It now consists of two washers and a rubber seal. :)
Top off your fish tank.
Wie viel wiegt das iFlight AOS 3.5" 03 FPV Frame Kit?
Ca. 50g mit der gesamten Hardware
No jello but each time you pushed the Quad there was lots of prop wash and its the disturbed airflow from the brace,s on the arms. I would like to see some hard Arco with a decent c rated lipo to see how smooth that style frame really is
Agree on the prop wash with the default 4.4 tune with RMP filtering. Really needs to be tuned when there is no snow on the ground for this old guy to crash into and blowing an esc. The only video I can link is the V1 version of this frame from Chris Rosser doing more aggressive freestyle ( better pilot than me) which does have arm braces. I am sure they do cause air turbulence for the FC to deal with but it's a trade off between frame resonnance noise and aerodynamics (Chris Rosser does a good job at explaining the design choices). th-cam.com/video/-Iempg4wfgs/w-d-xo.html
SLOG
@@slogfpv5679 Nice build, I made one very similar. using the Mousefpv AOS 3.5 preset in BF 4.3. flies beautifully.
Give the preset a try; I highly recommend it
@@bartbutler9960 thanks for validating that the Mousefpv AOS3.5 preset is a good one to use. Will load it and see how well it does once the weather warms up.