Hey I just bought a echo x can-501p just wondering inside the tank I’m assuming is a fuel pump Hooked to gas line is it suppose to be free laying loose wherever it wants to go or is it suppose to be secured ?
The coils are different as well, the P/C I have heard are the same. I have been considering getting a 346 or 026 but if I can get a deal on a 501 then I will go that route.
I have given up on reading compression, I believe my biggest battle is elevation, three new compression testers and all of them get to 120psi fast but wont raise from there. I am going to buy one more compression gauge (Strandix 1023) designed for small engines and after that if I cannot get a good reading then I give up. You know what I have been building and I still cannot get a gauge to read past 120 on new Husky and Echo and used Homelites/Macs/Husky's and Stihls, I can do the rope drop test and they hang there and go down VERY slow so I know I have excellent compression. I think the longer hoses are part of the problem because I have the valve right at the spark plug hole where I am supposed to and all my gauges are mid line (not cheap) gauges.
@@MegaLostOne Confirm the reader has the valve at the end of the hose not up by the gauge. Up by the gauge will have the hose acting like an extension of the combustion chamber.
Ya, the valve is at the end of the hose on all of them. That's why the one I mentioned has such a short hose, it's designed for small engines and not a car engine. I'm sure if I wanted to spend more time trying to get a reading I could but I know the compression is high and the condition of the P/C are more important to me.
@@MegaLostOne that’s weird then! I’ve had a few including a small engine specific one. All worked fine. For some reason the short hose one reads lower. First one I bought did not have the valve at the end and did what you described. My favorite is the one Napa sells with a steel braided hose.
Funny you mention the plastics. I ordered a walkerized 620pw. Never seen one before. It showed up and when i unboxed it thats the first thing I noticed. The plastic looked cheap and not colored matched. I love the saw. But not happy with the finish of the plastic.
I love the wrap I did on my 501p that I ported one of my favorite 50cc saws they take to porting nicely
Echo uses 60% Glass reinforced nylon for most of their plastics. Lightweight yet durable and resistant to heat.
Good to know. Thanks,
Agreed with you on the simple controls.
Never cared for the multi switch on saws like the 550 562 stuff.
@@yotaismygame agreed.
Good luck with it, Echo is good.
Looks pretty cool, can't wait to see how it cuts
I’ve seen other ported versions that look pretty strong. Must have potential. Cheap too
@@yotaismygame ya im a firm believer in you get what you pay for, but I've heard good things about that one
@@PoplarMechanic time will tell. I always like hearing what guys have to say who use them daily.
@@PoplarMechanic With Stihl and Husky you are paying a lot extra for the name
Hey I just bought a echo x can-501p just wondering inside the tank I’m assuming is a fuel pump Hooked to gas line is it suppose to be free laying loose wherever it wants to go or is it suppose to be secured ?
Just a fuel line with a filter on the end that follows the fuel around. Diaphragm inside the carb creates suction
Is the bar mount for the 4910 and 501p the same ??
Ide love to have one of those full wraps for mine
The coils are different as well, the P/C I have heard are the same. I have been considering getting a 346 or 026 but if I can get a deal on a 501 then I will go that route.
I have given up on reading compression, I believe my biggest battle is elevation, three new compression testers and all of them get to 120psi fast but wont raise from there. I am going to buy one more compression gauge (Strandix 1023) designed for small engines and after that if I cannot get a good reading then I give up. You know what I have been building and I still cannot get a gauge to read past 120 on new Husky and Echo and used Homelites/Macs/Husky's and Stihls, I can do the rope drop test and they hang there and go down VERY slow so I know I have excellent compression. I think the longer hoses are part of the problem because I have the valve right at the spark plug hole where I am supposed to and all my gauges are mid line (not cheap) gauges.
@@MegaLostOne Confirm the reader has the valve at the end of the hose not up by the gauge. Up by the gauge will have the hose acting like an extension of the combustion chamber.
Cheapest I’ve seen a 501 is on eBay with a 20” for $450 shipped. If you don’t mind the plastic handle I would get the 4910.
Ya, the valve is at the end of the hose on all of them. That's why the one I mentioned has such a short hose, it's designed for small engines and not a car engine. I'm sure if I wanted to spend more time trying to get a reading I could but I know the compression is high and the condition of the P/C are more important to me.
@@MegaLostOne that’s weird then! I’ve had a few including a small engine specific one. All worked fine. For some reason the short hose one reads lower. First one I bought did not have the valve at the end and did what you described. My favorite is the one Napa sells with a steel braided hose.
Has anyone ever put a 24 inch bar on a cs501p? I would love to see if my 501 could pull a 24 inch bar!
ported absolutely.
Funny you mention the plastics. I ordered a walkerized 620pw. Never seen one before. It showed up and when i unboxed it thats the first thing I noticed. The plastic looked cheap and not colored matched. I love the saw. But not happy with the finish of the plastic.
How much that run you?
@@yotaismygame just over a $1000 Canadian.
@@polaristech101 that’s a fair price.
Yea just broke the back handle/ tank. It fell from 5 feet, should have unstuck it differently
RIP
@@yotaismygame Yea, I just tapped the handle together, I think I can run it like this for a while until I do something stupid again.