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Thank you for the effort in the video. You gave me a lot to consider. You inspire me to continually learn. I think using modern lighting equipment with HS sync is the best approach. Regardless the quality of the filter, the image is degraded a bit. Your session illustrates direct flash in and open shade environment. The mismatch of light quality looks unnatural. If you shot in direct flash in direct sunlight or soft box in open shade…the hack would be found lacking. Not enough power. My weapon of choice would be as much power as I could get with high speed sync feature and travel convenience. That’s a hard combination but I’ve settled on the Godox AD600. I know is an older model but it has a two distinct attributes for me. It’s paid for and it still works reliably. Thanks for what you do Sir.
I disagree with you. I prefer ND filters as I get to keep the full range of power from my strobe and not struggle with very bright days. And what you said is backwards. In High Speed Sync you are robbed of a good portion of the flash's power because of how the flash and camera have to sync; with ND filters there's no such thing. I also have a Godox AD600 and still prefer ND filters over HSS. And ND filters isn't a hack. Long before HSS was even invented, photographers used ND filters for portraiture back in the day. This is no "hack." This is a genuine technique. But to each his own.
I shoot flash with ND filters now to break sync speeds. Get a good ND filter and you are golden. Don’t cheap out on ND because the cheaper ones have color casts. A big advantage with ND+ Flash is that you can shoot faster and not wait for the recycle time on the flash.
ND filter will be versatile for most users. Breaking sync speed is interesting, but not all users may have the right camera or flash combination to pull it off. Besides slowing flash shutter sync speed, ND filters are great for long-exposure photography.
From what I have seen on others posting TH-cam videos, they say that using ND filters will cause lack of contrast, which can be fixed when editing your photos through lightroom, or other brands of editing software. The good side of using ND filters is that you can use speedlights instead of using big strobe lights, because you don't need a more powerful flash.
Great job andrew... I am usually used ND filter to making portrait shooted when my camera is nikon d3500 (entry level) but I gotten good photo even in a brightday with larger aperture... Nice video.. Thanks
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At 05:02, why did you pick a shutter speed of 1/4000, when 'breaking sync'? At 08:50, how did you come to the conclusion of setting the remote flash on 1/8 power, when using ND filter on your camera lens.?
For the result use a goods quality 4 or 6 stop ND filter instead of a variable ND filter. A variable ND filter usually has color fringing and chromatic aberrations problems which can be seen in your example.
There are great VND's now but most of them cost a pretty penny. Though there's a really great brand called Urth I stumbled upon that's fairly affordable. Besides, it's recommended that for optimal use, Variable ND's shouldn't be used at the very extreme end of the filter's range.
With variable nd filters you are chnging the angle of the glass to achieve the nd effect, so maximum is always at 90 degrees... and you get the x... it's better to buy non variable ones and combine one after another
If you can buy a quality ND filter or 2 flashes, you can probably buy a flash trigger and a flash with HSS. The price gap isn't that huge, especially for Godox.
just use ND bro. . i can tell you can save alot of power if you do long shot . . . HSS is good but ND is more good for me. . the extra power that i can use on my flashes is what i need
HantuBorneo while I agree NDs are a better option for the scenario shown in the video there are sometimes HSS will be beneficial. One example is using a faster SS to freeze motion without killing all ambient.
HantuBorneo well it depends on the subject doesn’t it. A person sitting, a person walking, a person running and a bird fluttering its wings is all going to require a different shutter speed. The point about ambient was if we have killed ambient then the shutter isn’t freezing motion, the flash duration is
@@Lucy-dk5cz ya if a person walking and running for sure will be freeze in 1/250. . but for bird for sure people will never use ND . . HSS for animal ya maybe. . becouse of the long lens 😘.
hi Andrew and team... nice clincal presentation showing all sign and symptoms of both techniques... you always come with thoughts provoking ideas.. ..that's i like about you.. ND filters are better option to work with... what is your opinion.. stay blessed ❤❤❤
If I understood, you need a shutter speed higher than 1/4000s for breaking sync in order to allow the sensor to be exposed in the time the flash last, right? In my Nikon D5100 the faster is 1/4000, so I see black bands when trying breaking sync 😪
Sync speed has nothing to do with electronics being in sync with shutter. It’s the shutter speed of the individual camera model where the second curtain starts to close before the first curtain has fully opened.
I guess I am curious why you use variable ND. Just use a regular one. Only on piece of glass in front of the lens instead of 2. Personally, instead of ND I use a circular polarizer and turn my ISO from 100 to 50 if I even need to to lower the amount of light. If still too much light then get out a standard ND filter.
With an ISO of 50 your camera is just talking a picture at ISO 100 and immediately post processing the exposure 1 stop down. You're effectively losing 1 stop of dynamic range in the highlights, and have higher chances of blowing them, even if they don't appear as blown in the histogram review because of the automatic post processing.
Yeah, his ND pictures looked a bit wonky. Trust me when I tell you that's not the norm. I use ND filters all the time and I don't lose sharpness like that at all.
Break sync speed does not work on Nikon D5600. It has no HSS. It cannot have a shutter that is faster than flash sync speed when using a speedlight or trigger.
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He explained that not everyone would have a flash that can do HSS. He wanted to show that you can get practically the same results with an ND filter, using a fairly inexpensive flash. And he needed 2 flashes because he was using optical triggering (line of sight), not a radio trigger.
There are two major advantages to shooting with ND filters first advantage lower power on the strobe increases the life expectancy of the strobe. Second advantage because you're not operating the flash at full power This gives you the option of using a softbox and raising the output on the flash to compensate for the light loss in the softbox an It still be shooting at less than full power which saves power output which saves flash batteries and increases the life expectancy of the flash bulb.
@@Lucy-dk5cz This is a common misconception about using ND filters and this particular application. Remember the exposure doesn't change the only thing that changes is the depth of field so you have the same amount of light striking the sensor and you also have the same amount of light in your viewfinder or mirror so there's no difficulty in focusing or in seeing your subject. When using an ND filter you are controlling the exposure with shutter speed and so you're lowering the shutter speed to come back to the original exposure. So to repeat there is no light loss on the sensor or your viewfinder or for viewing your composition in any way shape or form..
ke4uyp but that clearly isn’t true. A ND DOES reduce the amount of light that hits the sensor/mirror otherwise you would be able to change the SS....the only reason the final exposure is the same is because we are adding in light with the flash. Don’t believe me, try this extreme scenario to prove or disprove me. Slap on a 8 or 10 stop ND and try use an OVF or use AF on a fast lens... completely forget about the flash as that has no impact at the time of composition
@@Lucy-dk5cz Okay let me try to explain this to you one more time a little differently. Let's say that you're going to take a photo with a flash and the flash is set to where your camera aperture would be set at f5.6 and your normal sync shutter speed. Now if you were to instead set your aperture on your camera to f 1.4 you would be 4 F stops overexposed. Now put a ND1.2 neutral density filter over your lens and you have now reduced the exposure by 4 F stops which brings you back to the exact same exposure you would have had at f 5.6. The amount of light striking the sensor is the same at f 1.4 as it is at f5.6 because of the neutral density filter. But now you have shallow depth of field. f5.6 to f4 is 1 f stop f4 to f2.8 is 1 f stop f2.8 to f2 is 1 f-stop and finally from f2 to f1.4 is 1 f-stop for a total of 4F stops.
ke4uyp yes that is true but shutter speed has no bearing on the preview in the OVF or how AF works. 1/100 or 30 seconds SS is no different to the OVF or how AF is achieved.
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I don't think I ever had a camera where breaking sync was an option. Neither have I heard of focal plane shutter speed. If you would ask me now i would say this We need a slow shutter speed/sync because the flash strobe is short that we must make sure that the whole sensor/film is open to receive the light. Breaking sync works the other way around, the strobe is so long and consistent that we can expose the sensor in successive parts as it happens with the opening and closing shutter curtain at high shutter speeds. The flash has to fire before the shutter opens and not when it is open as with sync.
In High Speed Sync, the shutter speed is so fast that your camera's sensor is never fully exposed to light at any given time; the shutter curtains only have a tiny slit between them. Your camera pulses several weaker flash bursts instead of one big burst of light like you would get with normal flash sync speed. In HSS, the flash is effectively mimicking continuous light.
Radio trigger uses expensive batteries? Nimh AA or AAA batteries. 10 dollars Normally, we use radio triggers when there is more than one photographer. In 2022, there is aways more than one photographer lol
I never optically trigger flashes. I always use a radio trigger. Not sure where Andrew is getting his info from sometimes. Radio triggering is always easier and in fact, 100% more reliable than optical triggering.
Sifoo, when we break sync or HSS, the power of the flash no matter which brand also will lose power by 1 or 2 stops. But with VND filter, the problem is when you expose for the sky to darken down, sometimes 2 units of AD200 also cannot get the correct exposure for darker skin tones subject. By the time we get the exposure right, make up sudah melt la.... tested with parabolic, reflective umbrella, 7 foot shoot through umbrella, hexagon diffuser, beauty dish and the only one can use is the mangkuk type diffuser dome with 2 AD200 with fresnel head shoot through a hand held 5 in 1 inner diffuser sheet. Shooting this super pretty girl is not hard cos she has got a fair skin, can you do a video on darker skin tone subject with soft light diffuser... That would be challenging...hehehehe... just kidding ya.. dun hantam me in fb....
@@Lucy-dk5cz Adorama, Jared Polin, Daniel Norton, Joris Herman, Lindsay Adler, Matt Granger, Miguel Quiles, Peter Mckinon, Potato Jet, The Slanted Lens, Tony Northrop and even Vannesa Joy admits HSS does drops the brightness... All the renowed photogs agrees... Guess your on camera flash must be the best... Even my AD600 has a power loss in HSS, I must buy your type of flash in order to maintain "Do It Right On Camera" concept. I used both Sekonic L-308s and Sekonic Lite Master Pro L-478D to measure and yet it shows inconsistency.... I guess Godox system must be no good... Must upgrade to Aperture or Wescourt to get it constant...... What brand do you use? Dun mind to share with me?
@@DelonYeoh That's not what he meant. What he meant is that you can't claim the INEVITABLE loss of power with HSS to be ALWAYS within 1 to 2 stops. Sometimes is more, sometimes is less. Depending mostly on the shutter speed you use. There is no flash that won't lose power with HSS, it is a physical inevitability.
terima kasih, videonya sangat membantu sekali. Saya juga membuat beberapa percobaan oversync dengan Flash manual. Adapun trigger yang saya gunakan adalah godox X1T dab X1R. namun saya menggunakan fitur "Flash Timing" yang ada pada trigger, sehingga saya tetap bisa mendapatkan cahaya lampu flash hingga 1/8000 dengan flash manual. Saya membuat videonya disini, th-cam.com/video/_UcN1XFDCgA/w-d-xo.html
@@fotowalo So you used one once and decideg all ND filters are crap? Your logic doesn't track. There are several good brands nowadays that don't produce a color cast.
@@jasonbodden8816 first of all, I didn't say "all are crap" My experience was not good, so I don't use them. There are other solutions. Everybody is free to think it an other way.
Aw… stop being unkind & showing off alrdy , really, many photographers use Nikon D3000 and D5000 series which cannot even break sync and having trouble wrapping their heads arnd this topic. Want to show off, go do your own video and do better than.
woman in 2022 = "you understand right?" - "hehehe whatever..." woman in 2024 = strong empowerment big bad boss babe we can do anything that man can do and living alone in the old age with cats. make woman great again like in the past.
I love your videos and explanations. My photography is very influenced by your teachings.
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Sir,your teaching goes inside out of the essencial rules in photography.
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You are a Master of all Masters, Andrew. Great topic. It's like you read my mind with every video 😁 God Bless 🙏
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❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤💯🥰 You guys are like my family 🙏
Thank youuu ❤️❤️❤️@@ALLBOUTTHUGLIFE. And you are our family 😉.
Thank you for the effort in the video. You gave me a lot to consider. You inspire me to continually learn. I think using modern lighting equipment with HS sync is the best approach. Regardless the quality of the filter, the image is degraded a bit. Your session illustrates direct flash in and open shade environment. The mismatch of light quality looks unnatural. If you shot in direct flash in direct sunlight or soft box in open shade…the hack would be found lacking. Not enough power. My weapon of choice would be as much power as I could get with high speed sync feature and travel convenience. That’s a hard combination but I’ve settled on the Godox AD600. I know is an older model but it has a two distinct attributes for me. It’s paid for and it still works reliably. Thanks for what you do Sir.
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I disagree with you. I prefer ND filters as I get to keep the full range of power from my strobe and not struggle with very bright days. And what you said is backwards. In High Speed Sync you are robbed of a good portion of the flash's power because of how the flash and camera have to sync; with ND filters there's no such thing. I also have a Godox AD600 and still prefer ND filters over HSS. And ND filters isn't a hack. Long before HSS was even invented, photographers used ND filters for portraiture back in the day. This is no "hack." This is a genuine technique. But to each his own.
I shoot flash with ND filters now to break sync speeds. Get a good ND filter and you are golden. Don’t cheap out on ND because the cheaper ones have color casts. A big advantage with ND+ Flash is that you can shoot faster and not wait for the recycle time on the flash.
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Thank you, cikgu. I learn a lot from your tutorial vids. 🙏
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ND filter will be versatile for most users. Breaking sync speed is interesting, but not all users may have the right camera or flash combination to pull it off. Besides slowing flash shutter sync speed, ND filters are great for long-exposure photography.
Thanks for sharing that, we appreciate it ❤️.
- Rin Othmani, Channel Admin -
From what I have seen on others posting TH-cam videos, they say that using ND filters will cause lack of contrast, which can be fixed when editing your photos through lightroom, or other brands of editing software. The good side of using ND filters is that you can use speedlights instead of using big strobe lights, because you don't need a more powerful flash.
@@thehumanityoflife6460 I much prefer ND filters than HSS. I haven't had a problem with lack of contrast.
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Great job andrew... I am usually used ND filter to making portrait shooted when my camera is nikon d3500 (entry level) but I gotten good photo even in a brightday with larger aperture... Nice video.. Thanks
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At 05:02, why did you pick a shutter speed of 1/4000, when 'breaking sync'? At 08:50, how did you come to the conclusion of setting the remote flash on 1/8 power, when using ND filter on your camera lens.?
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Haha I love your interactions with your model.
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She's gorgeous!
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Great tutorial! But, why is the video talked about in this video not linked in the description?
Either lazy or he forgot.
Trust me, we youtubers get lazy XD
For the result use a goods quality 4 or 6 stop ND filter instead of a variable ND filter. A variable ND filter usually has color fringing and chromatic aberrations problems which can be seen in your example.
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There are great VND's now but most of them cost a pretty penny. Though there's a really great brand called Urth I stumbled upon that's fairly affordable. Besides, it's recommended that for optimal use, Variable ND's shouldn't be used at the very extreme end of the filter's range.
With variable nd filters you are chnging the angle of the glass to achieve the nd effect, so maximum is always at 90 degrees... and you get the x... it's better to buy non variable ones and combine one after another
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thank you for your video very use full like always - i have Nikon D 810 & D 7000 which flash TTL you advice me please thanks adavice
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If you can buy a quality ND filter or 2 flashes, you can probably buy a flash trigger and a flash with HSS. The price gap isn't that huge, especially for Godox.
just use ND bro. . i can tell you can save alot of power if you do long shot . . . HSS is good but ND is more good for me. . the extra power that i can use on my flashes is what i need
HantuBorneo while I agree NDs are a better option for the scenario shown in the video there are sometimes HSS will be beneficial. One example is using a faster SS to freeze motion without killing all ambient.
@@Lucy-dk5cz no no. . 1/250 already can freeze mation trust me . . abouy killing the ambient HSS is more kill the ambient for me 🥰
HantuBorneo well it depends on the subject doesn’t it. A person sitting, a person walking, a person running and a bird fluttering its wings is all going to require a different shutter speed. The point about ambient was if we have killed ambient then the shutter isn’t freezing motion, the flash duration is
@@Lucy-dk5cz ya if a person walking and running for sure will be freeze in 1/250. .
but for bird for sure people will never use ND . . HSS for animal ya maybe. . becouse of the long lens 😘.
hi Andrew and team... nice clincal presentation showing all sign and symptoms of both techniques... you always come with thoughts provoking ideas.. ..that's i like about you.. ND filters are better option to work with... what is your opinion.. stay blessed ❤❤❤
Hi Haider, thanks for your awesome comments ❤️. I think ND filters are a great addition too. May God bless you too.
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If I understood, you need a shutter speed higher than 1/4000s for breaking sync in order to allow the sensor to be exposed in the time the flash last, right? In my Nikon D5100 the faster is 1/4000, so I see black bands when trying breaking sync 😪
Wow Great tip
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Sync speed has nothing to do with electronics being in sync with shutter. It’s the shutter speed of the individual camera model where the second curtain starts to close before the first curtain has fully opened.
Great info bro.
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@@rinothmani6064 Thank you👍
Awesome video
Thanks Black Mamba 😍😍😍 Happy learning 😉 😉 😉
I guess I am curious why you use variable ND. Just use a regular one. Only on piece of glass in front of the lens instead of 2. Personally, instead of ND I use a circular polarizer and turn my ISO from 100 to 50 if I even need to to lower the amount of light. If still too much light then get out a standard ND filter.
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With an ISO of 50 your camera is just talking a picture at ISO 100 and immediately post processing the exposure 1 stop down. You're effectively losing 1 stop of dynamic range in the highlights, and have higher chances of blowing them, even if they don't appear as blown in the histogram review because of the automatic post processing.
Great test.
But one of my doubts about this subject, is what’s the best solution to overpower the sun
Chuck Norris won a staring contest against the sun.
We're reviewing a bag from K&F Concept soon. Didn't know they've got ND filters too. Yikes!
On my monitor the break sync was the better photo...;) IT is set at 2560x1080...
Thank youuuuu for sharing ur experiences with us Kibb 😉😉😉
Muchas gracias.
The sharpness of ND method is definitely more loose. It only help you save the battery power of flash.
Thanks for sharing that 😊.
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Yeah, his ND pictures looked a bit wonky. Trust me when I tell you that's not the norm. I use ND filters all the time and I don't lose sharpness like that at all.
Sir i think nd filter is better because not direct flash use
Use with soft box light is very week
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Break sync speed does not work on Nikon D5600. It has no HSS. It cannot have a shutter that is faster than flash sync speed when using a speedlight or trigger.
Why do you need two flash to do this ?I feel only one HSS flash would have done the job.
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He explained that not everyone would have a flash that can do HSS. He wanted to show that you can get practically the same results with an ND filter, using a fairly inexpensive flash. And he needed 2 flashes because he was using optical triggering (line of sight), not a radio trigger.
There are two major advantages to shooting with ND filters first advantage lower power on the strobe increases the life expectancy of the strobe. Second advantage because you're not operating the flash at full power This gives you the option of using a softbox and raising the output on the flash to compensate for the light loss in the softbox an It still be shooting at less than full power which saves power output which saves flash batteries and increases the life expectancy of the flash bulb.
But there is also disadvantages, if using an OVF then composition can be difficult and AF can also find it difficult to pull focus
@@Lucy-dk5cz This is a common misconception about using ND filters and this particular application. Remember the exposure doesn't change the only thing that changes is the depth of field so you have the same amount of light striking the sensor and you also have the same amount of light in your viewfinder or mirror so there's no difficulty in focusing or in seeing your subject. When using an ND filter you are controlling the exposure with shutter speed and so you're lowering the shutter speed to come back to the original exposure. So to repeat there is no light loss on the sensor or your viewfinder or for viewing your composition in any way shape or form..
ke4uyp but that clearly isn’t true. A ND DOES reduce the amount of light that hits the sensor/mirror otherwise you would be able to change the SS....the only reason the final exposure is the same is because we are adding in light with the flash. Don’t believe me, try this extreme scenario to prove or disprove me. Slap on a 8 or 10 stop ND and try use an OVF or use AF on a fast lens... completely forget about the flash as that has no impact at the time of composition
@@Lucy-dk5cz Okay let me try to explain this to you one more time a little differently. Let's say that you're going to take a photo with a flash and the flash is set to where your camera aperture would be set at f5.6 and your normal sync shutter speed. Now if you were to instead set your aperture on your camera to f 1.4 you would be 4
F stops overexposed. Now put a ND1.2 neutral density filter over your lens and you have now reduced the exposure by 4 F stops which brings you back to the exact same exposure you would have had at f 5.6. The amount of light striking the sensor is the same at f 1.4 as it is at f5.6 because of the neutral density filter. But now you have shallow depth of field.
f5.6 to f4 is 1 f stop f4 to f2.8 is 1 f stop f2.8 to f2 is 1 f-stop and finally from f2 to f1.4 is 1 f-stop for a total of 4F stops.
ke4uyp yes that is true but shutter speed has no bearing on the preview in the OVF or how AF works. 1/100 or 30 seconds SS is no different to the OVF or how AF is achieved.
ND filter make the photo got some effeck that i love abg andrew. . .😘
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What is 'breaking sync' ? Do you mean high speed sync ? Btw variable nd-filters are no good. Great channel btw
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Break sync looks better ✌️
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use f 1.4, why don't you miss focus?
I don't think I ever had a camera where breaking sync was an option. Neither have I heard of focal plane shutter speed. If you would ask me now i would say this
We need a slow shutter speed/sync because the flash strobe is short that we must make sure that the whole sensor/film is open to receive the light. Breaking sync works the other way around, the strobe is so long and consistent that we can expose the sensor in successive parts as it happens with the opening and closing shutter curtain at high shutter speeds. The flash has to fire before the shutter opens and not when it is open as with sync.
In High Speed Sync, the shutter speed is so fast that your camera's sensor is never fully exposed to light at any given time; the shutter curtains only have a tiny slit between them. Your camera pulses several weaker flash bursts instead of one big burst of light like you would get with normal flash sync speed. In HSS, the flash is effectively mimicking continuous light.
@@jasonbodden8816 Yes, in HSS, but this video there is not that, as both flashes were just manual mode and full power.
I not a fan of any of these looks, but i use AD200 with softbox
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Break sync reduce the flash power even at 1/1 it will not fire the max "watt" of 1/1 power.
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Radio trigger uses expensive batteries? Nimh AA or AAA batteries. 10 dollars
Normally, we use radio triggers when there is more than one photographer. In 2022, there is aways more than one photographer lol
I never optically trigger flashes. I always use a radio trigger. Not sure where Andrew is getting his info from sometimes. Radio triggering is always easier and in fact, 100% more reliable than optical triggering.
Sifoo, when we break sync or HSS, the power of the flash no matter which brand also will lose power by 1 or 2 stops.
But with VND filter, the problem is when you expose for the sky to darken down, sometimes 2 units of AD200 also cannot get the correct exposure for darker skin tones subject.
By the time we get the exposure right, make up sudah melt la.... tested with parabolic, reflective umbrella, 7 foot shoot through umbrella, hexagon diffuser, beauty dish and the only one can use is the mangkuk type diffuser dome with 2 AD200 with fresnel head shoot through a hand held 5 in 1 inner diffuser sheet.
Shooting this super pretty girl is not hard cos she has got a fair skin, can you do a video on darker skin tone subject with soft light diffuser...
That would be challenging...hehehehe... just kidding ya.. dun hantam me in fb....
The power loss from HSS is not constant. So the 1-2 stops does not hold true.
@@Lucy-dk5cz Adorama, Jared Polin, Daniel Norton, Joris Herman, Lindsay Adler, Matt Granger, Miguel Quiles, Peter Mckinon, Potato Jet, The Slanted Lens, Tony Northrop and even Vannesa Joy admits HSS does drops the brightness... All the renowed photogs agrees...
Guess your on camera flash must be the best...
Even my AD600 has a power loss in HSS,
I must buy your type of flash in order to maintain "Do It Right On Camera" concept.
I used both Sekonic L-308s and Sekonic Lite Master Pro L-478D to measure and yet it shows inconsistency....
I guess Godox system must be no good...
Must upgrade to Aperture or Wescourt to get it constant......
What brand do you use? Dun mind to share with me?
@@DelonYeoh That's not what he meant. What he meant is that you can't claim the INEVITABLE loss of power with HSS to be ALWAYS within 1 to 2 stops. Sometimes is more, sometimes is less. Depending mostly on the shutter speed you use. There is no flash that won't lose power with HSS, it is a physical inevitability.
@@felipedeornelas8054 thank you for the clarification bro photographer... At least now i believe that is normal to lose power in hss...🥰
@@DelonYeoh No problem brother. Greetings from Brazil✌️ 🇧🇷
Would you like to try our newly upgraded one-of-a-kind tripod?
We really want to cooperate with you on our products. -- Andonbil
Break sync renders more natural looking stills
I think so too 😉. Thanks for watching. Support our e-learnings too at beyond.photos
- Rin Othmani, Channel Admin -
terima kasih, videonya sangat membantu sekali. Saya juga membuat beberapa percobaan oversync dengan Flash manual. Adapun trigger yang saya gunakan adalah godox X1T dab X1R. namun saya menggunakan fitur "Flash Timing" yang ada pada trigger, sehingga saya tetap bisa mendapatkan cahaya lampu flash hingga 1/8000 dengan flash manual. Saya membuat videonya disini, th-cam.com/video/_UcN1XFDCgA/w-d-xo.html
Terima kasih kerana menonton M. Fahri. Ingat untuk klik pada butang subscribe 😉😉😉
I don't like ND filters. Used once...and never again.
Care to share why Walo... It would be awesome to hear ur experiences with it
@@farahn63 because of the big color cast. (violet)
@@fotowalo So you used one once and decideg all ND filters are crap? Your logic doesn't track. There are several good brands nowadays that don't produce a color cast.
@@jasonbodden8816 first of all, I didn't say "all are crap" My experience was not good, so I don't use them. There are other solutions. Everybody is free to think it an other way.
Oh gosh, this guy thinks breaking sync is advanced photography... kind of feel bad for anyone who actually pays for his content
That's not nice!
Aw… stop being unkind & showing off alrdy , really, many photographers use Nikon D3000 and D5000 series which cannot even break sync and having trouble wrapping their heads arnd this topic. Want to show off, go do your own video and do better than.
woman in 2022 = "you understand right?" - "hehehe whatever..."
woman in 2024 = strong empowerment big bad boss babe we can do anything that man can do and living alone in the old age with cats.
make woman great again like in the past.