These are fundamentally different shoes because the Vass are handwelted and hand stitched. TLB is Goodyear welted and machine made. It all depends what’s important to you. If I were looking for an austerity brogue, which both are known for, and Vass was on sale so the price was the same, it would be a very tough call. I would probably choose TLB because I’ve had some challenges with Vass lasts. But They’re both very very fine shoes.
@@wishoeguy I'm looking to get a black cap toe oxford. I've cut it down between the Vass and the TLB Artista. Very different lasts indeed. The Vass has JR soles and lasted shoe tress included as your are aware. The TLB has a sleeker last. It's like Sophie's choice haha!
For less money than list price on a Vass, you can have TLB upgrade the sole to a JR sole. Just customize the shoe. You can have other upgrades as well. TLB has a blind stitched sole and Vass is a Closed stitch and Vass doesn’t usually do a fiddleback or beveled waist. On top of that, I prefer the softness or the leather by TLB.
Because these normally come with a rubber sole (with a leather waist), the heel is usually rubber. Seems different to me for JR, but they're quite nice.
I did the customize but it’s a mainline design. The customizer is still separated on mainline and Artista options. So I could put an Artista last on the Oliver or the Nolan (longwing). This would be a great option for them to add.
I did not know that I could customise a mainline but I do now. I ordered the Cohen with the brown embossed leather and the JR sole would have been better than the black rubber sole. With your excellent advice and shoe reviews I will know better next time.
Really curious about how many new pairs you get on average every year. I thought I was bad getting ~10 pairs last year. But I saw you getting 10 pairs in July/August already.
37 unboxing videos this year. Wow... sold 30 though (9 of which are available) I’ve only been in acquiring mode 3 years. I have a goal to own three shoes from 49 brands so I can put a book together on shoes. Fun hobby, and getting more expensive as I shift up market.
Wi Shoeguy That’s awesome. What’s the angle on the book? Last, material, comfort, your experience etc? You got a few makers I am trying to get into, good to see the comparison on your videos. Hopefully in the next few years, I can get my first pairs of G&G and StC.
I normally post them in facebook groups. All of the shoes i'm selling now are 10.5UK or 11.5E US (slight wide). This was my old size and when i dropped 10 stone i naturally sized down. The Carmina 955 in a 10.5 would probably work because i installed a toe insert to make them fit me better. It is an F fitting though. It's on the Forest last. The E fitting is like a generous F or an F in CJ where the standard is E. Two of the shows are on a narrow last, the Allen Edmonds 65 last. I have a pair of Strands and a pair of Fifth Ave for sale. email me at wishoeguy@gmail.com and i'll shoot you some pictures if you're inclined. Thanks.
I mistakenly called this the Oliver. It’s actually the Owen. Apologies. The shoe is on the Oliver last. i updated the description with links if anyone is interested in learning more.
Nice shoes and review.
Quick question. Which one would you recommand between Vass and TLB?
Thank you!
These are fundamentally different shoes because the Vass are handwelted and hand stitched. TLB is Goodyear welted and machine made. It all depends what’s important to you. If I were looking for an austerity brogue, which both are known for, and Vass was on sale so the price was the same, it would be a very tough call. I would probably choose TLB because I’ve had some challenges with Vass lasts. But They’re both very very fine shoes.
@@wishoeguy I'm looking to get a black cap toe oxford. I've cut it down between the Vass and the TLB Artista. Very different lasts indeed. The Vass has JR soles and lasted shoe tress included as your are aware. The TLB has a sleeker last. It's like Sophie's choice haha!
For less money than list price on a Vass, you can have TLB upgrade the sole to a JR sole. Just customize the shoe. You can have other upgrades as well. TLB has a blind stitched sole and Vass is a Closed stitch and Vass doesn’t usually do a fiddleback or beveled waist. On top of that, I prefer the softness or the leather by TLB.
Your outdoor pictures really highlight the great color of the shoes
Glad you think so!
Why would they add a rubber heel block? 🤨
Because these normally come with a rubber sole (with a leather waist), the heel is usually rubber. Seems different to me for JR, but they're quite nice.
Oliver's last is already Alan, Goya, Picasso's last? Is it a light brown skin color?
You say Mainline, but did you go down the Customise route to obtain the JR soles and double soles?
Or did you just ask for the extras on the Mainline?
I did the customize but it’s a mainline design. The customizer is still separated on mainline and Artista options. So I could put an Artista last on the Oliver or the Nolan (longwing). This would be a great option for them to add.
I did not know that I could customise a mainline but I do now. I ordered the Cohen with the brown embossed leather and the JR sole would have been better than the black rubber sole. With your excellent advice and shoe reviews I will know better next time.
pwsod I did the customize route.
I love the last shape and the chunky double sole - very appropriate for a split toe :-)
Does the Oliver last have quite a chiseled toe box?
It’s a slope vs a chisel but not harsh on the inside.
@@wishoeguy Thank you.
Really curious about how many new pairs you get on average every year. I thought I was bad getting ~10 pairs last year. But I saw you getting 10 pairs in July/August already.
37 unboxing videos this year. Wow... sold 30 though (9 of which are available) I’ve only been in acquiring mode 3 years. I have a goal to own three shoes from 49 brands so I can put a book together on shoes. Fun hobby, and getting more expensive as I shift up market.
Wi Shoeguy That’s awesome. What’s the angle on the book? Last, material, comfort, your experience etc? You got a few makers I am trying to get into, good to see the comparison on your videos. Hopefully in the next few years, I can get my first pairs of G&G and StC.
Wow! That’s a great idea for a book! A book like that will be very useful for shoe lovers across the globe.
😍😍😍😍
Q, where do you sell your shoes? I'm a UK 10 on a F or G fitting, depending on the last....
I normally post them in facebook groups. All of the shoes i'm selling now are 10.5UK or 11.5E US (slight wide). This was my old size and when i dropped 10 stone i naturally sized down. The Carmina 955 in a 10.5 would probably work because i installed a toe insert to make them fit me better. It is an F fitting though. It's on the Forest last. The E fitting is like a generous F or an F in CJ where the standard is E. Two of the shows are on a narrow last, the Allen Edmonds 65 last. I have a pair of Strands and a pair of Fifth Ave for sale. email me at wishoeguy@gmail.com and i'll shoot you some pictures if you're inclined. Thanks.
I mistakenly called this the Oliver. It’s actually the Owen. Apologies. The shoe is on the Oliver last. i updated the description with links if anyone is interested in learning more.
I love the last shape and the chunky double sole - very appropriate for a split toe :-)