Thanks for showing this where theory welds with practical usage. Very, very much appreciated. I do have a question, how do you increase line weight, i.e. #10 to #12?
Going down in line weight is easy, just remove some of the belly. Going up in line weight requires adding mass which gets a whole lot more challenging. The only way to handle it is to find some running line of sufficient weight or perhaps a trout DT-3-F and weld it onto the belly of the 10wt. Here's where it gets tricky. Welding a 3wt. onto a 10wt. produces a line with two cores. Those cores will work against each other during the cast and the second core would add too much stiffness. To deal with this we would have to spiral the DT-3-F line around the 10wt. like a candy cane stripe. Fun welding project. Probably one spiral for every one or two feet of belly would probably be enough spiralling. Thanks for making my brain work on a Sunday morning . . . good thing I've had my second coffee.
Great video! I have a question that I am hoping would apply to this specific video regarding modifying fly lines. I have a Sage Accel 7wt and recently acquired thru a trade of reels, RIO Outbound WF8I/S6 fly line. I’ve noticed that the line is over loading my fly rod when casting. I’ve managed to fix some this by adjusting how I cast and in particular using a roll cast after striping in the line and then doing a single cast to get the line back out. It works ok, but I still feel that my rod is over loaded due to the weight of the sinking portion of the line. My first thought is to cut off some of that sinking section and tie on some mono with a perfection loop at the end to hook up my leader. Would this be a mistake? I want/need the capability to get my fly down much quicker than a floating line allows. Thanks in advance.
I'm assuming that this is the Outbound Tropical Short version with a head length of 30'. If that's the case, anything we trim off the front end will reduce our casting weight as we would normally serialize the entire 30' head. Slightly more than half of the weight is in the front half of the line. Since the front end is S6, we can ignore any taper that might be there. The front taper is supposed to be 5' but on an S6, the taper is negligible. The weight of the 8 wt. F/I/S6 is 330 grains so the average weight per foot is 11 grains. For a 7 wt., we want to drop the weight to about 280, so that means cutting off about 5' of the tip. Given the taper of that line, chopping the tip is the simple solution. If we want to retain the sink rate of the line, we would have to reduce the back end of the head by 5' which means hacking off the running line, chopping the belly back 5', then welding the running line back onto the head.
Very interesting, thank you for showing.
Thanks for showing this where theory welds with practical usage. Very, very much appreciated. I do have a question, how do you increase line weight, i.e. #10 to #12?
Going down in line weight is easy, just remove some of the belly. Going up in line weight requires adding mass which gets a whole lot more challenging.
The only way to handle it is to find some running line of sufficient weight or perhaps a trout DT-3-F and weld it onto the belly of the 10wt. Here's where it gets tricky. Welding a 3wt. onto a 10wt. produces a line with two cores. Those cores will work against each other during the cast and the second core would add too much stiffness. To deal with this we would have to spiral the DT-3-F line around the 10wt. like a candy cane stripe. Fun welding project. Probably one spiral for every one or two feet of belly would probably be enough spiralling.
Thanks for making my brain work on a Sunday morning . . . good thing I've had my second coffee.
Super cool.
Great video! I have a question that I am hoping would apply to this specific video regarding modifying fly lines. I have a Sage Accel 7wt and recently acquired thru a trade of reels, RIO Outbound WF8I/S6 fly line. I’ve noticed that the line is over loading my fly rod when casting. I’ve managed to fix some this by adjusting how I cast and in particular using a roll cast after striping in the line and then doing a single cast to get the line back out. It works ok, but I still feel that my rod is over loaded due to the weight of the sinking portion of the line. My first thought is to cut off some of that sinking section and tie on some mono with a perfection loop at the end to hook up my leader. Would this be a mistake? I want/need the capability to get my fly down much quicker than a floating line allows. Thanks in advance.
I'm assuming that this is the Outbound Tropical Short version with a head length of 30'. If that's the case, anything we trim off the front end will reduce our casting weight as we would normally serialize the entire 30' head.
Slightly more than half of the weight is in the front half of the line. Since the front end is S6, we can ignore any taper that might be there. The front taper is supposed to be 5' but on an S6, the taper is negligible.
The weight of the 8 wt. F/I/S6 is 330 grains so the average weight per foot is 11 grains. For a 7 wt., we want to drop the weight to about 280, so that means cutting off about 5' of the tip.
Given the taper of that line, chopping the tip is the simple solution. If we want to retain the sink rate of the line, we would have to reduce the back end of the head by 5' which means hacking off the running line, chopping the belly back 5', then welding the running line back onto the head.
@@hooked4lifeca solid advice! Thank you for taking the time to respond. Much appreciated.