Thanks for the clear instructions and showing the whole process. This is probably the most expensive way possible to make a strop, but I bought it because my current strop doesn’t seem to be doing anything at all. I’m not sure if the leather is garbage, if there’s not enough compound, if I didn’t apply it right, or what. Your system eliminates variables and that’s worth it to me. I bought the 4 micron for use on knives-it just arrived today and I followed along to start loading the compound.
@@JendeIndustries actually, a follow up question: I’ve done a few rounds of loading the nanocloth and letting it dry, using it a bit, loading a bit more…but how much is “loaded enough?” I have your 270x210 strop, 25ml 4 micron emulsion.
@@joshcarter-com If you've loaded it twice now and it was spread evenly over the surface both times, you should be good to go. The strop will always dry black, and it will look like nothing has been added, but it is there! Make sure your first few strokes are tickling the edge. Most guys coming over from leather are used to putting a lot of force on the strop to make it cut. If you need more pressure, add it little by little.
@@joshcarter-com reload it with 1 even layer of emulsions when you feel that it isn't working anymore. Depending on your usage, it can be weeks or months before you need to top it off.
Smart product. I didn't know that such a sharpening / honing medium exists, till I saw it in a European seller. Again Mr Tom Blodget made an explanative video, without useless talking / hypo (best videos on the use of shapton stones for razors are these of Tom Blodget, hands down). Still, I do have two querries. 1)After some use ( long use) these compound loaded strops will get dirty or clogged? Will they need cleaning? how that could be done? 2) after some use (long use), cleaned or not, but always compound loaded, might these strops become ineffective? And if yes, how much time of use, grosso modo, do we have available?
Wow, George! Thank you so much for this epic feedback, it is much appreciated!! To answer your queries: 1. Ultimately, the Jende Nanocloth Strops can and probably will get dirty/dusty/clogged/sticky after some many months of use. Cleaning can be usually done with warm water. The Jende Poly Emulsions are all water based, so everything should rinse out. Let the strop dry, and reload. 2. In general, when a nanocloth strop becomes ineffective, it is usually an indicator that it is time to reload the strop. I have found that when the strop becomes hard or sticky, then it is time to clean it out and reload. The time of use is measured in months, if not years before needing to be cleaned, and you are generally looking at 20+ knives stropped before needing to reload.
@@JendeIndustries Well, sincerely, a few years ago I tried to sharpen a loved TI of mine on Shaptons, starting from 1k. To put it very simply, as usual I exert/ exerted pressure till around the 5k - 6k stage, and no presure from the 8k stage onwards. But, during the procedure, small black dots were formed on the surface of my stone. Not expecting such a hapenning, I initially decided not to care, but after a while small dents appeared at my edge. I couldn' t explain it, thus I decided to stop and repeat when calm. Still, the problem persisted, rending me really frustrated, and thinking that I ' m the most stupid/incompetent sharpener in whole universe, since anybody admits that shapton company is reliable and does really make powerfull / beloved products - consequently I was responsible for the fail. To cut long story short, I got onto a link to mr Tom Blodget's videos on the use of Shaptons. Well, it was an "apocalypse" for me. I quitted from using pressure on my 1k and the magic was done... I even managed to make good use of my 30k ... That ' s why the "epic" feedback. Now, to the point: I don't have enough money to buy everything I ' d like to have and use... Thus for the time beeing I' ve ordered from a German seller (I live in Greece) 1) the "Jende leather honing strop block - cowhide", and aditionally, 2) the "Jende leather honing strop block - kangaroo leather", (they currently are not in stock but quite probably I ' ll have them before the end of January 2021, the seller is reliable). I needed good simple leather strops so I decided to postpone the purchase of the - very wanted - nanocloth strops with emulsions. I do have two queries on these leather strops. 1) I hope that the material which "block" is made of (acrylic I think) doesn' t warp, thus it stays flat for long? 2) What' s the significance of the difference between hard surface (cowhide) and softer surface (kangaroo)? Why is the latter ideal for razors and the former for knives and tools? - I' m not sure I understand. Put in other words, why Jende Industries (a company well known to sharpeners, without flattery) considered important/usefull to issue two different versions of the leather strop? Thanks for your time - sorry for the long post.
@@georgeskandalaros8661 Once again, I thank you for your in depth response and query! 1. The color coded acrylic is purely a platform for the Jende Nanocloth for quick identification, and matches the grit label of our Jende Emulsions. The 3/4" or 20mm thick acrylic is waterproof and stable so it will not bend or warp under normal temperature and humidity conditions, and can easily withstand being cleaned and rinsed out over time. 2. Cow and Kangaroo strops are simply different materials, despite both being "skin". There are many variables to how they work based on the tanning techniques and preparation and finish, etc. However, the easy answer is this: In general, the cow leather surface looks more like sand dunes or rolling hills, while the kanagaroo leather is quite flat with small holes where hair follicles were. This translates into a potential aggressiveness difference - With the same stropping technique and pressure, the wavy cow skin will be more aggressive as it has raised hills that will push abrasives deeper into the edge and at varying depths. The kangaroo leather surface is like a smooth road and will abrade more evenly and won't push the abrasives as deep into the edge - the holes in the skin simply don't touch the edge. 3. Bonus - The Jende Nanocloth is kind of a hybrid of both leathers, but with a little added range of aggression. With pressure, the nanocloth compresses slightly, exposes more abrasive, and therefore cuts more aggressively at the same grit - like the cow leather, but more. Without pressure, or just "tickling the edge," the honeycomb surface acts similarly to the kangaroo, and minimally abrades. Best of both worlds.
@@JendeIndustries Quite informative answer, many thanks. Usefull for me - feel indebted. From the end of January 2021, I' ll try my hand on the Jende leather strop blocks. I prefer the blocks, because I can put them on the table and use them as a whetstone, instead of holding in one hand the strop. Nowadays I don't shave often thanks to some orthopedic problems of mine, but my kitchen knives need sharpening. I sharpen on 1k, then strop on 3k and 6k, after these stages leather storp blocks will follow.. on which I' try to imitate the motion I use on stones (lifitng slightly till I feel the bevel touches the surface). Probably next summer I' ll buy nanocloth strops along with their corresponding emulsions. Thanks again.
@@georgeskandalaros8661 The pleasure is all mine! The 3/4" thick acrylic on the 2x6" and 210x70mm strops was exactly for being able to use them in a stone holder, in your hand, or on the table. I'm looking forward to your experiences on our nanocloth this summer!
These are by far the best strops and abrasives I've come across!
Thanks Mike! They go great with your amazing razors!!!
How do you clean the strop? Mine got contaminated with sandpaper particles and i want to know how i can best clean it before reapply the paste?
Thanks for asking - the best way to clean the nanocloth is by using some warm water to rinse them out. Let them dry for a few hours before reloading.👍
Thanks for the clear instructions and showing the whole process. This is probably the most expensive way possible to make a strop, but I bought it because my current strop doesn’t seem to be doing anything at all. I’m not sure if the leather is garbage, if there’s not enough compound, if I didn’t apply it right, or what. Your system eliminates variables and that’s worth it to me. I bought the 4 micron for use on knives-it just arrived today and I followed along to start loading the compound.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and reply! Let us know if you have any questions. Nanocloth works. :)
@@JendeIndustries actually, a follow up question: I’ve done a few rounds of loading the nanocloth and letting it dry, using it a bit, loading a bit more…but how much is “loaded enough?” I have your 270x210 strop, 25ml 4 micron emulsion.
@@joshcarter-com If you've loaded it twice now and it was spread evenly over the surface both times, you should be good to go. The strop will always dry black, and it will look like nothing has been added, but it is there! Make sure your first few strokes are tickling the edge. Most guys coming over from leather are used to putting a lot of force on the strop to make it cut. If you need more pressure, add it little by little.
@@JendeIndustries got it, thanks! I probably have more than enough emulsion on mine. Is there a point where the nanocloth should be reloaded?
@@joshcarter-com reload it with 1 even layer of emulsions when you feel that it isn't working anymore. Depending on your usage, it can be weeks or months before you need to top it off.
Great Company! Great customer service
.
Smart product. I didn't know that such a sharpening / honing medium exists, till I saw it in a European seller. Again Mr Tom Blodget made an explanative video, without useless talking / hypo (best videos on the use of shapton stones for razors are these of Tom Blodget, hands down).
Still, I do have two querries.
1)After some use ( long use) these compound loaded strops will get dirty or clogged? Will they need cleaning? how that could be done?
2) after some use (long use), cleaned or not, but always compound loaded, might these strops become ineffective? And if yes, how much time of use, grosso modo, do we have available?
Wow, George! Thank you so much for this epic feedback, it is much appreciated!!
To answer your queries:
1. Ultimately, the Jende Nanocloth Strops can and probably will get dirty/dusty/clogged/sticky after some many months of use. Cleaning can be usually done with warm water. The Jende Poly Emulsions are all water based, so everything should rinse out. Let the strop dry, and reload.
2. In general, when a nanocloth strop becomes ineffective, it is usually an indicator that it is time to reload the strop. I have found that when the strop becomes hard or sticky, then it is time to clean it out and reload. The time of use is measured in months, if not years before needing to be cleaned, and you are generally looking at 20+ knives stropped before needing to reload.
@@JendeIndustries Well, sincerely, a few years ago I tried to sharpen a loved TI of mine on Shaptons, starting from 1k. To put it very simply, as usual I exert/ exerted pressure till around the 5k - 6k stage, and no presure from the 8k stage onwards. But, during the procedure, small black dots were formed on the surface of my stone. Not expecting such a hapenning, I initially decided not to care, but after a while small dents appeared at my edge. I couldn' t explain it, thus I decided to stop and repeat when calm. Still, the problem persisted, rending me really frustrated, and thinking that I ' m the most stupid/incompetent sharpener in whole universe, since anybody admits that shapton company is reliable and does really make powerfull / beloved products - consequently I was responsible for the fail.
To cut long story short, I got onto a link to mr Tom Blodget's videos on the use of Shaptons. Well, it was an "apocalypse" for me. I quitted from using pressure on my 1k and the magic was done... I even managed to make good use of my 30k ... That ' s why the "epic" feedback.
Now, to the point:
I don't have enough money to buy everything I ' d like to have and use... Thus for the time beeing I' ve ordered from a German seller (I live in Greece)
1) the "Jende leather honing strop block - cowhide", and aditionally,
2) the "Jende leather honing strop block - kangaroo leather",
(they currently are not in stock but quite probably I ' ll have them before the end of January 2021, the seller is reliable). I needed good simple leather strops so I decided to postpone the purchase of the - very wanted - nanocloth strops with emulsions. I do have two queries on these leather strops.
1) I hope that the material which "block" is made of (acrylic I think) doesn' t warp, thus it stays flat for long?
2) What' s the significance of the difference between hard surface (cowhide) and softer surface (kangaroo)? Why is the latter ideal for razors and the former for knives and tools? - I' m not sure I understand. Put in other words, why Jende Industries (a company well known to sharpeners, without flattery) considered important/usefull to issue two different versions of the leather strop?
Thanks for your time - sorry for the long post.
@@georgeskandalaros8661 Once again, I thank you for your in depth response and query!
1. The color coded acrylic is purely a platform for the Jende Nanocloth for quick identification, and matches the grit label of our Jende Emulsions. The 3/4" or 20mm thick acrylic is waterproof and stable so it will not bend or warp under normal temperature and humidity conditions, and can easily withstand being cleaned and rinsed out over time.
2. Cow and Kangaroo strops are simply different materials, despite both being "skin". There are many variables to how they work based on the tanning techniques and preparation and finish, etc. However, the easy answer is this: In general, the cow leather surface looks more like sand dunes or rolling hills, while the kanagaroo leather is quite flat with small holes where hair follicles were. This translates into a potential aggressiveness difference - With the same stropping technique and pressure, the wavy cow skin will be more aggressive as it has raised hills that will push abrasives deeper into the edge and at varying depths. The kangaroo leather surface is like a smooth road and will abrade more evenly and won't push the abrasives as deep into the edge - the holes in the skin simply don't touch the edge.
3. Bonus - The Jende Nanocloth is kind of a hybrid of both leathers, but with a little added range of aggression. With pressure, the nanocloth compresses slightly, exposes more abrasive, and therefore cuts more aggressively at the same grit - like the cow leather, but more. Without pressure, or just "tickling the edge," the honeycomb surface acts similarly to the kangaroo, and minimally abrades. Best of both worlds.
@@JendeIndustries Quite informative answer, many thanks. Usefull for me - feel indebted.
From the end of January 2021, I' ll try my hand on the Jende leather strop blocks. I prefer the blocks, because I can put them on the table and use them as a whetstone, instead of holding in one hand the strop. Nowadays I don't shave often thanks to some orthopedic problems of mine, but my kitchen knives need sharpening. I sharpen on 1k, then strop on 3k and 6k, after these stages leather storp blocks will follow.. on which I' try to imitate the motion I use on stones (lifitng slightly till I feel the bevel touches the surface).
Probably next summer I' ll buy nanocloth strops along with their corresponding emulsions.
Thanks again.
@@georgeskandalaros8661 The pleasure is all mine! The 3/4" thick acrylic on the 2x6" and 210x70mm strops was exactly for being able to use them in a stone holder, in your hand, or on the table. I'm looking forward to your experiences on our nanocloth this summer!
Good tip on the Nanocloth
Thanks, Dean! We have KME size, too!