Thanks for the video. I did a lot of body/paint work in my youth. I'm 68 now and just recently started repairing salvage vehicles. The trucks I purchase require the same procedure to bring the bumper/receiver back level. I'll start using the heat method. Looks like your way is easier and makes a better repair. Thanks again!
Those port-a-powers are INDISPENSABLE. I recently bought one to straighten various frame components on my truck. A trick I used to save some time and reduce the amount of flexing of the steel...I bought some flat steel stock (1/4" thick) and cut lengths to fit between the tool and the frame surfaces. They act as a die, as well as distribute the force across a wider area. Perfect flat and straight lines with minimal loss of material strength.
I've never had a problem with mine other than it not being full of jack oil from new. I bought a bottle of oil and filled it per instructions on the porta power and no issues ever! Saved and even made me money! Awesome tool.
@@LakesideAutobody so, got everything leveled out, and it turns out that my problem is actually the opposite - the rail has been bent up. I’m going to drop some concrete anchors and eye bolts into my garage floor and pull down against a fulcrum. I’ll just kind of apply your principals in reverse... thank you for giving me data and courage to try!!
@@ronskopitz2360 Sometimes you have to do what is necessary. Keep thinking.... you'll find success. Let me know how it goes :) Another thing you can do is to extend a chain the length of the frame rail that's anchored at both ends. Put the jack in the middle right over the bend and push up on the chain - like a bow and arrow. That will eliminate the need to put holes in the floor - if I understand you situation correctly. Anyway keep me updated - curious :)
@@goneplatinumpaintlessdentr3102 You must get some pretty good storms out there I bet. Cowboys are looking good this year so far - Lions not so good :(
Great video what ton is the porta power.........i have the 4 ton HF and i've been able to push shock towers back after they been hit mostly hyundia's and replace the quarter. Never tried on a full frame car.
Most shops have frame equipment. Maybe they don't want to do the work. Keep looking, you'll come across one - maybe a mom and pop type shop will help you 👍🎄😊
Would a Pittsburgh (harbor freight) brand porta power be an okay option for someone who maybe does this once in a great while? Guess I should’ve watched the whole video before asking. What’s the general consensus on the harbor freight porta power?
Actually this is a Harbor Freight 4 ton PP. It works just fine - as with any porta power, you have to follow the instructions on bleeding it and making sure there is enough hyd fluid. They work great :)
I don't think it's "high strength metal" as in the metal they use for unibody frame construction - might be wrong though. I believe it's just regular steel that has been used for decades on trucks - it's a 97 so - quite old.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks, would you change your approach here in any way if you were working with a high strength steel frame in the same condition? again, thanks.
No - same approach. I wouldn't be afraid to use heat either - even though it's a no-no according to safety experts. Yes it may change the properties of the metal but you can't say "What if" all the time. Here's an example of using a bit of heat on high strength unibody steel - th-cam.com/video/7MwceT55Zjs/w-d-xo.html @@tierraporvida
Hey Bro, even though the early videos still have the guitar 🎸 music at the intro, they don't have the season or year listed. But based on the shorts and tank top, I know that this was filmed 🎥 in the summer of year 20xx
I get that too, but my guess is because the chain is thicker than the gauge of plate used for the frame it is much stronger than it looks, and the strength of steel to compression and stretching is far more to that of bending to the side.
you may be surprised how well the HF porta Power works, I am, my boss has the 4 & 10 ton, & have worked them hard & still doing fine. at home I have 2 of the 10 ton versions, so I can have the longer reach, but not by HF, but picked up at Pawn shop, still wanting a 4 ton for myself.
If I had to buy one to repair an explorer sports lower quarter panel by the door jam, which one should i go with ? 4 or 10 ton? $100 price difference.. I was going to just bite the bullet and choose the 10 to have more than what I need in case the 4 isnt enough for all my future projects.
@@ChristopherJones16 remember the 10 ton is heavier to deal with, but has more reach and capability, i myself own 2 of the 10 ton versions, has done everything i need and more, but i can see the use of having a 4 ton, and i will buy a 4 ton, when i see a cheap one at pawn shop, or facebook market place. fo for light easy pull / push you may want to deal with a 4 ton, instead of the 10 ton. your call. but if do a lot of crash work, both can be very useful. i know im going to get a project on a 1964 where tree fell across roof. ill be glad to have 2 big units, and i may need to bite bullet to get 4 ton while using big to work window area? if we locate a roof, it will be a lot easier job, but i cant find 1, and he had car since early 1980's. i known him over 45 years. but big project
With the use of a come along, torch, and a porta power you can do a lot. You can use trees to anchor the vehicle and/or other vehicles. It's really limited only by your imagination :)
No - I'm fine with the 4 ton. I think it will do everything you need. You just need pressure. You can use heat, hammers and other tools to work the kinks too. Remember too - the smaller the better because you'll need to fit it in tight spots sometimes :)
Do what I do... when you can't decide and both items are not exactly the same.. then purchase the most expensive one first so the only cheaper one is left to purchase and wont take long to save up funds again for the less expensive one. With that said I wait for the big sales to buy the most expensive one first.. 25% off coupon and such.. that way it is easier to justify to purchase knowing youre going to buy the second smaller and less expensive one down the road (which you may opt to not wait for a sale to purchase due to time constraints and thus purchase it at full price which will be acceptable since its price its more typical for your average "oh shit I need this tool to do this big project" purchase.. I feel this approach to shopping is how most men shop in tool stores lol. and yes I know this comment is 2 years old.
The chain is attached to the lift ramp which is constructed of I beams but in a body shop you would have floor anchor pots or a frame rack to anchor to. You can buy pull pots for your garage though from autobodytoolmart
@@LakesideAutobody Is there any other way to secure the chain though without drilling holes in my garage floor to install pull pots? I have an old jeep frame I need to tweak just a bit... thanks.
@@robgraham6770 It's tough when you don't have something to anchor to. When that happens you have to get very creative but I'll bet you can think of some way to straighten it w/o anchoring it. Let me know what you end up doing - I'm interested in seeing if you come up with something :)
Where are you located? I'm looking to hire someone to straighten the frame on a 99 dodge 2500 Ram. None of the body shops here want to do it. I tried myself by heating it and pulling with my wife's 3500 Ram. It's bent in the front drivers side where the cradle bolts to the frame.
I'm up north in Michigan. Saint Helen. Right now I'm buried w/ work and product reviews so I'm not taking on any work right now. If you are in the thumb area Paul's Collision in Almont, MI does some heavy frame work along with Professional Finish in Romeo, MI. 🛠😊
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I finally found a shop that will try to fix it. So I piece it back together with wire to hold the radiator in place to drive it there.
Absolutely! You have to love working on cars though. If you don't then you wont think it's worth it. Just think... nice winter day, hot coffee on the wood stove, fire heating your garage from the wood you cut, saving tons of loot fixing your own stuff, putting 280,000 plus miles on a vehicle - good times :)
I have a 1968 Dodge truck that has recently sustained damage to the top of the cab from a tree falling onto the carport that the truck was parked under. I am thinking of getting this tool and gonna try pushing the dents out myself, enough to be able to drive the truck at least.
Thanks for the video. I did a lot of body/paint work in my youth. I'm 68 now and just recently started repairing salvage vehicles. The trucks I purchase require the same procedure to bring the bumper/receiver back level. I'll start using the heat method. Looks like your way is easier and makes a better repair. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching Mark - good luck fixing your truck. Let me know how it goes for you :)
Great to watch a good tradesman at work. There is so much experience and knowledge here.
Thanks 👍
Amazing understanding of all the forces at play and how to use them to get the result you want
Thanks for the support J Werner - have a good week my friend :)
Those port-a-powers are INDISPENSABLE. I recently bought one to straighten various frame components on my truck.
A trick I used to save some time and reduce the amount of flexing of the steel...I bought some flat steel stock (1/4" thick) and cut lengths to fit between the tool and the frame surfaces. They act as a die, as well as distribute the force across a wider area. Perfect flat and straight lines with minimal loss of material strength.
Good tip - thanks for the comment - you're right about the value of these tools too :)
Nice... I just baught some flat stock to do just that. Your comment reassured my decision
Excellent use of the word Harbor Freight too. Thanks.
You're welcome
I've never had a problem with mine other than it not being full of jack oil from new. I bought a bottle of oil and filled it per instructions on the porta power and no issues ever! Saved and even made me money! Awesome tool.
Thanks for sharing - I know mine has to be low on oil as I've had some spill out at the connection :)
@@LakesideAutobody the proper fill instructions are on the face of the pump itself. 👍🇺🇸💯
@@paulcondie2520 Thank you Paul - I appreciate the help :)
I have the same problem on an ‘88 S10 Blazer we’re restoring. Came her to find exactly this info - thank you!!!!
You're welcome :)
@@LakesideAutobody so, got everything leveled out, and it turns out that my problem is actually the opposite - the rail has been bent up. I’m going to drop some concrete anchors and eye bolts into my garage floor and pull down against a fulcrum. I’ll just kind of apply your principals in reverse... thank you for giving me data and courage to try!!
@@ronskopitz2360 Sometimes you have to do what is necessary. Keep thinking.... you'll find success. Let me know how it goes :) Another thing you can do is to extend a chain the length of the frame rail that's anchored at both ends. Put the jack in the middle right over the bend and push up on the chain - like a bow and arrow. That will eliminate the need to put holes in the floor - if I understand you situation correctly. Anyway keep me updated - curious :)
Nice job. You never know what you will run into!
You're right - that's why you need all kinds of tools - feels good when you have the right tool for the job.
You are one heck of a Mechanic!!
Thanks Bobrat - I appreciate your kind words. Have a good week :)
I got one of those porta powers for my bday about 2yrs ago.
I've yet to use it ,but I know it'll get me out of a pinch.
It's pretty darn powerful actually - decent quality too :)
Wow you are really good I watch your videos all the time I use to be a body man and now I been pushing hail dent for 10 years
I appreciate that GP - thanks for the support. What are you fixing hail damage with? Jerry
Im in Dallas Tx
@@goneplatinumpaintlessdentr3102 You must get some pretty good storms out there I bet. Cowboys are looking good this year so far - Lions not so good :(
You're a wonderful teacher
Thanks for the support Mike - I appreciate your kind words ☺
Always wear your safety shorts.
If they catch on fire, there's less to burn :)
@Royal Tanner If she’s your girlfriend, why would you hack her account??
Safety is for sissy’s
Great video what ton is the porta power.........i have the 4 ton HF and i've been able to push shock towers back after they been hit mostly hyundia's and replace the quarter. Never tried on a full frame car.
It's the same one you have probably - it's the 4 ton - seems to be pretty good quality.
I have a tahoe frame that has bends in the frame rail from improper jacking the tahoe up. Would this porta power work to untwist thos areas?
Yes - might have to use a bit of heat and a big hammer to help it too.
I'm having trouble finding a frame shop near me.
Most shops have frame equipment. Maybe they don't want to do the work. Keep looking, you'll come across one - maybe a mom and pop type shop will help you 👍🎄😊
Would a Pittsburgh (harbor freight) brand porta power be an okay option for someone who maybe does this once in a great while? Guess I should’ve watched the whole video before asking. What’s the general consensus on the harbor freight porta power?
Actually this is a Harbor Freight 4 ton PP. It works just fine - as with any porta power, you have to follow the instructions on bleeding it and making sure there is enough hyd fluid. They work great :)
Hi! Great video. is this a high strength steel frame? thanks.
I don't think it's "high strength metal" as in the metal they use for unibody frame construction - might be wrong though. I believe it's just regular steel that has been used for decades on trucks - it's a 97 so - quite old.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks, would you change your approach here in any way if you were working with a high strength steel frame in the same condition? again, thanks.
No - same approach. I wouldn't be afraid to use heat either - even though it's a no-no according to safety experts. Yes it may change the properties of the metal but you can't say "What if" all the time. Here's an example of using a bit of heat on high strength unibody steel - th-cam.com/video/7MwceT55Zjs/w-d-xo.html @@tierraporvida
Hey Bro, even though the early videos still have the guitar 🎸 music at the intro, they don't have the season or year listed.
But based on the shorts and tank top, I know that this was filmed 🎥 in the summer of year 20xx
Yep this was published Oct. 2019 - thanks for watching my friend 👍🎄😊
Can’t believe that pogo stick chain didn’t break
👍🛠✌
I get that too, but my guess is because the chain is thicker than the gauge of plate used for the frame it is much stronger than it looks, and the strength of steel to compression and stretching is far more to that of bending to the side.
you may be surprised how well the HF porta Power works, I am, my boss has the 4 & 10 ton, & have worked them hard & still doing fine. at home I have 2 of the 10 ton versions, so I can have the longer reach, but not by HF, but picked up at Pawn shop, still wanting a 4 ton for myself.
To me it's really pretty good quality - cheap too.
Can you use a porta up in the air like to push the frame apart?
If I had to buy one to repair an explorer sports lower quarter panel by the door jam, which one should i go with ? 4 or 10 ton? $100 price difference.. I was going to just bite the bullet and choose the 10 to have more than what I need in case the 4 isnt enough for all my future projects.
@@ChristopherJones16 remember the 10 ton is heavier to deal with, but has more reach and capability, i myself own 2 of the 10 ton versions, has done everything i need and more, but i can see the use of having a 4 ton, and i will buy a 4 ton, when i see a cheap one at pawn shop, or facebook market place. fo for light easy pull / push you may want to deal with a 4 ton, instead of the 10 ton. your call. but if do a lot of crash work, both can be very useful. i know im going to get a project on a 1964 where tree fell across roof. ill be glad to have 2 big units, and i may need to bite bullet to get 4 ton while using big to work window area? if we locate a roof, it will be a lot easier job, but i cant find 1, and he had car since early 1980's. i known him over 45 years. but big project
When you get frame straight. Does it stays in that position? Can it move by itself with time?
It will stay in that position an won't move by itself in time.
How would you suggest making a similar repair on a boxed frame? I have a light crease on the inside of a CJ7 frame.
With the use of a come along, torch, and a porta power you can do a lot. You can use trees to anchor the vehicle and/or other vehicles. It's really limited only by your imagination :)
I'm trying do fugue out if I want a 10 ton or a 4 ton. I see u got the 4. How well does it work? Do u wish u got the 10 ton
No - I'm fine with the 4 ton. I think it will do everything you need. You just need pressure. You can use heat, hammers and other tools to work the kinks too. Remember too - the smaller the better because you'll need to fit it in tight spots sometimes :)
Do what I do... when you can't decide and both items are not exactly the same.. then purchase the most expensive one first so the only cheaper one is left to purchase and wont take long to save up funds again for the less expensive one. With that said I wait for the big sales to buy the most expensive one first.. 25% off coupon and such.. that way it is easier to justify to purchase knowing youre going to buy the second smaller and less expensive one down the road (which you may opt to not wait for a sale to purchase due to time constraints and thus purchase it at full price which will be acceptable since its price its more typical for your average "oh shit I need this tool to do this big project" purchase.. I feel this approach to shopping is how most men shop in tool stores lol.
and yes I know this comment is 2 years old.
Where is the chain attached too
The chain is attached to the lift ramp which is constructed of I beams but in a body shop you would have floor anchor pots or a frame rack to anchor to. You can buy pull pots for your garage though from autobodytoolmart
@@LakesideAutobody Is there any other way to secure the chain though without drilling holes in my garage floor to install pull pots? I have an old jeep frame I need to tweak just a bit... thanks.
@@robgraham6770 It's tough when you don't have something to anchor to. When that happens you have to get very creative but I'll bet you can think of some way to straighten it w/o anchoring it. Let me know what you end up doing - I'm interested in seeing if you come up with something :)
Quick question, does it have its own hydraulic fluid in it or you have to buy that separately?
It has its own - I really liked this porta power from HF. Some things they have are good some not so good. This is a good one - so far.
@@LakesideAutobody okay thank you
Where are you located? I'm looking to hire someone to straighten the frame on a 99 dodge 2500 Ram. None of the body shops here want to do it. I tried myself by heating it and pulling with my wife's 3500 Ram. It's bent in the front drivers side where the cradle bolts to the frame.
I'm up north in Michigan. Saint Helen. Right now I'm buried w/ work and product reviews so I'm not taking on any work right now. If you are in the thumb area Paul's Collision in Almont, MI does some heavy frame work along with Professional Finish in Romeo, MI. 🛠😊
@@LakesideAutobody thanks I finally found a shop that will try to fix it. So I piece it back together with wire to hold the radiator in place to drive it there.
@@ranjanty Cool - let me know how it goes for you - good luck with it my friend 🛠😊✌
Is it worth doing this
Absolutely! You have to love working on cars though. If you don't then you wont think it's worth it. Just think... nice winter day, hot coffee on the wood stove, fire heating your garage from the wood you cut, saving tons of loot fixing your own stuff, putting 280,000 plus miles on a vehicle - good times :)
got it!
I have a 1968 Dodge truck that has recently sustained damage to the top of the cab from a tree falling onto the carport that the truck was parked under. I am thinking of getting this tool and gonna try pushing the dents out myself, enough to be able to drive the truck at least.
It's a handy tool. You'll find other uses for it too :)
'96.... looks like a 1896 frame rail...
Yeah - that's what frames look like in Michigan after a few winters on salted roads. 60,000 dollars for a truck now and it's rusted out in 5-10 years.
Lamento megusta
me alegra que te guste?
Dude!, nice work but that is one ugly frame, so much rust pitting, it's ready for the scrap yard...
No way, that's what every frame in Michigan looks like after about 5 years. Solid as a rock :)
Yup that's a Chevy...just look at that frame...
Yep - good running truck - 350 Chevy. I've had all three Chevy, Ford and Dodge and they were all very dependable.
Too bad you have a colorblind painter