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I’m really glad you posted this. I’ve never got a gasket to seal and I was beginning to suspect the seals themselves. This confirms my suspicions. Thanks Mike.
My rockerbox nut seals that came in my bearmach kit were copper colored, and while they worked fine, after 2 or three uses they had an aweful concave shape, im just going to buy them in packs of ten and replace them everytime i take the rockerbox off, which for me seems like every 2 or three weeks! and thanks for the tip on the stethascope, the noise is coming from just under cy 4 which makes me think the vaccum pump as you suggested, new one should be here friday (Thanks LRDirect!) and we will see if my noise goes away (Fingers Crossed!)
Fixed my vac pump noise and the persistent oil leaks, just took it off, threw it in the bin, blanked the hole in the block and fitted an electric vac pump off an Audi, all good...
Maybe you should do some sort of spread sheet naming the good common parts you use and who to get them from. Bearmach and Britpart seem to sell good stuff and really rubbish stuff. I do like your follow up on that engine, ie; not handing it over until you are 100% happy that it is running well with no leaks. Very professional
You have that right - you can get a Britpart part that is great - so, full of confidence, you order another which is from another 'batch' and it is crap
Getting there slowly but surely Mike. It must be so frustrating for you over there. At least if we have a failed part here, we can quickly get a replacement. That new rocker gasket looks like a good un. It looks quality. My td5 da constantly leaking from the back of the rocker. Time to spend on a decent gasket I think.
Mike, I usually put some blue Hylomar on the head side for this gasket. Like most other brands, ORIGINAL is always best. Especially rubber products like door seals. oil seals and rubber gaskets.
hello mike. why cant they make gaskets like we had on the 2/4 litre petrol and diesel engines which was cork. and flat.who designed this engine ?crazy people, come back mr wilkes
Oh yes , I’m tired of getting parts which have a rubber component to them, whether that’s a ball joint or gasket and they last a year at best or about 500-2000 km !! I really don’t know what they are using these days! I keep a stock of ball joint boots as they are the worst. I don’t mind if I only pay tuppence but they are often “OEM” emmmm!!!
I think OEM is thrown about these days as a more expensive version of an aftermarket part Toyota sell genuine parts at affordable prices - if LR did this they would make a fortune and get its reputation back
Maybe there's a rubber shortage and the seals have been substituted with pontifract cakes!!!:) I'd stock up on dried food as world wide flooding has decimated crops!
Hi Mike, I fitted a genuine Landrover rocker cover gasket on mine about 10months ago and it’s leaking again already. It didn’t seem any better or worse than the Britpart OEM type, certainly wasn’t that tight to fit. After writing the first part of this I had a look at turners website, they only offer a top gasket set with the rover cover gasket in the set made by Elring. I just ordered an elring rocker cover gasket on eBay for 12pounds. Not easy to find using the Landrover ERR2409 part number but search for Elring 509.620
I gave up on these seals many years ago Mike. Replacements never seem to be any good. I have suspected the half circle seal and replaced that without any improvement. And as for those top seals, I'm better off with conveyor belting, I use an hole-saw to make those and they are OK. Now for the truth of the matter. I also use silicon sealer, I KNOW,!! I KNOW!!,, you dont like it very much, but it works Mike and that is all I want. I recon the rubber used to make those has a high percentage of reclaimed stuff in it which does not mold well and has little strength which soon decomposes with heat.. The main gasket is made by injection-moulding, and if the machine is not set up correctly you will always get a bad mould with faults like the one you showed to us which is due to material flow with in the mould. Bad moulds were always blamed on the night shift by the quality control bloke, I hate to think what quality control there is in a back-street kitchen workshop some where in India. STILL!!!! a great informative video. Best wishes from Gods county, Yorkshire Rob.
Bit off topic Mike but wondered if you have any opinion on oils? Branded, none branded etc? If oil meets the spec then is oil oil? I've always used Castrol but now I see a German oil, same spec as Castrol, unknown name in UK that's vw /Audi, MB etc approved that's a quarter of the price when buying 20ltrs. Just got me wondering. 🤔
I will tell you what I do know - our local parts supplier Canadian Tire, sell Motormaster oils - their own brand - I asked they guy behind the counter who makes it and it was Shell
andicog, only a guess as the engine may have had some alternative parts for waterproofing. The intake system is different, after all, as is the injection pump.
Are you sure that gasket isn't in upside-down? Seems like it'd be more sensible for the thin edge to fit into the slot in the cover and the thick edge to sit against the sealing face. Apologies if this is a stupid thing to say. It's more than a decade since I've looked closely at a 300tdi and I can't recall if the rocker cover is symmetrical. Not really sure what to think about a rocker gasket leaking. Theoretically, there's no pressure inside the rocker cover so there's nothing acting on the seal. Any failure must (unless I'm missing something) be the result of degradation of either the rubber or any sealant (or, at worst, something metal warping). That seal doesn't look especially "uniform" any more. Is it possible that heat has caused sections of it to go soft and then it's moved into a slightly different position, which caused the leak? Regarding the small bolt seals, that's the sort of thing I'd make myself. Nice bit of 3/8" alloy with a suitable o-ring groove cut into both sides so you can fit standard o-rings. Job's a good 'un.
G'Day Mike. Matey Its nearly always the rubber component of most after market parts that let us all down the most I find. Its why I pretty much steer away from any after market part that has rubber in it/part of it, these days and only buy OEM as much as I can. Having said that though, even OEM at times is a fail, but its far less than the dreaded after market chinese junk. Why getting good quality rubber components/subcomponents is so damned hard to do these days I have no idea, used to be all good rubber came from India, nowadays I have no idea where any of its coming from. If its a case of they always fail I start looking out the box for some way to replace the part with an item I kit bash from something that can be converted to do the job, you'd be surprised what works at times. The other method I use at times, is to find a part that's from a different Marque, and use that if its fit for purpose.
I have given up faith on OEM parts now - I think the word has lost all meaning - it is now a more expensive 'aftermarket' part but does not guarantee quality
@@BritannicaRestorations as an example, the place I use give a choice on their site, the steering column joints are from £7.04 each, there's a drop down option box, sometimes with 3 options so you can pick aftermarket, OEM or Genuine, on the steering u/j NRC7704 it gives aftermarket at £7.04, OEM at £26.55 or for genuine £61.38 Is the genuine really that much better?? It's a minefield.
I've just bought a blue box Sh*tpart clutch master cylinder cap, won't screw onto the two master cylinders I've tried, then theres the lower steering column joint from the same company that for some reason has one hole threaded so the original bolts shank is too long for so it won't tighten down, it nearly does, gives the impression of being tight but doesn't close the joint up on the splines. All made in China, or as Trump would say CHI- NAAA 👍
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NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
I hope the customer appreciates your efforts to get this just right
I’m really glad you posted this. I’ve never got a gasket to seal and I was beginning to suspect the seals themselves. This confirms my suspicions. Thanks Mike.
Yes this foxed me as this seal came from an old stock Britpart black bag
Recently bought replacement Bearmach steering damper shock bushes which showed signs of decay within two weeks? SHOCKED! But not surprised 😂✌️
Britpart polyurethane shock bushes - shit the bed in 300km - it's getting worse now for parts
@@BritannicaRestorations ah sad but so true Mike !
My rockerbox nut seals that came in my bearmach kit were copper colored, and while they worked fine, after 2 or three uses they had an aweful concave shape, im just going to buy them in packs of ten and replace them everytime i take the rockerbox off, which for me seems like every 2 or three weeks! and thanks for the tip on the stethascope, the noise is coming from just under cy 4 which makes me think the vaccum pump as you suggested, new one should be here friday (Thanks LRDirect!) and we will see if my noise goes away (Fingers Crossed!)
Normally no leaks from those washer but the Bearmach ones were pathetic - they just fell to bits!
Fixed my vac pump noise and the persistent oil leaks, just took it off, threw it in the bin, blanked the hole in the block and fitted an electric vac pump off an Audi, all good...
Thanks for the update Mike 👍👍👍👍👍
No problem 👍
Nothing like a good thrashing lol.
Hmmmm!
I bought a Britpart brake caliper kit for my classic Range Rover, never again. Didn't fit at all.
Hi Mike 🤔 just saying thanks for this update 👍 been playing with the camper van today ready to roll out weekend away 😁 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hope you enjoy it!
Just bought me a payen gasket set ....hope it will be good ....always OEM on gaskets..always ...good job mate
Maybe you should do some sort of spread sheet naming the good common parts you use and who to get them from.
Bearmach and Britpart seem to sell good stuff and really rubbish stuff.
I do like your follow up on that engine, ie; not handing it over until you are 100% happy that it is running well with no leaks. Very professional
But that's the snag, it's hit and miss, sometimes the Britpart is good yet buy the same thing a month later and it's junk .
@@andicog Yes, I guess you are right. Their quality control is non existent
You have that right - you can get a Britpart part that is great - so, full of confidence, you order another which is from another 'batch' and it is crap
Getting there slowly but surely Mike.
It must be so frustrating for you over there. At least if we have a failed part here, we can quickly get a replacement.
That new rocker gasket looks like a good un. It looks quality.
My td5 da constantly leaking from the back of the rocker.
Time to spend on a decent gasket I think.
Mike, I usually put some blue Hylomar on the head side for this gasket. Like most other brands, ORIGINAL is always best. Especially rubber products like door seals. oil seals and rubber gaskets.
Good tip!
hello mike. why cant they make gaskets like we had on the 2/4 litre petrol and diesel engines which was cork. and flat.who designed this engine ?crazy people, come back mr wilkes
Peter - stop thinking sensible or you will have to sit at the back of the class!
lol!
Oh yes , I’m tired of getting parts which have a rubber component to them, whether that’s a ball joint or gasket and they last a year at best or about 500-2000 km !! I really don’t know what they are using these days! I keep a stock of ball joint boots as they are the worst. I don’t mind if I only pay tuppence but they are often “OEM” emmmm!!!
I think OEM is thrown about these days as a more expensive version of an aftermarket part
Toyota sell genuine parts at affordable prices - if LR did this they would make a fortune and get its reputation back
Maybe there's a rubber shortage and the seals have been substituted with pontifract cakes!!!:) I'd stock up on dried food as world wide flooding has decimated crops!
Could be!
@@BritannicaRestorations oh and jamesons+jc:)
Hi Mike, I fitted a genuine Landrover rocker cover gasket on mine about 10months ago and it’s leaking again already. It didn’t seem any better or worse than the Britpart OEM type, certainly wasn’t that tight to fit.
After writing the first part of this I had a look at turners website, they only offer a top gasket set with the rover cover gasket in the set made by Elring. I just ordered an elring rocker cover gasket on eBay for 12pounds. Not easy to find using the Landrover ERR2409 part number but search for Elring 509.620
hey Tom, any theedback on this elring gasket ? thanks
I gave up on these seals many years ago Mike. Replacements never seem to be any good. I have suspected the half circle seal and replaced that without any improvement. And as for those top seals, I'm better off with conveyor belting, I use an hole-saw to make those and they are OK. Now for the truth of the matter. I also use silicon sealer, I KNOW,!! I KNOW!!,, you dont like it very much, but it works Mike and that is all I want. I recon the rubber used to make those has a high percentage of reclaimed stuff in it which does not mold well and has little strength which soon decomposes with heat.. The main gasket is made by injection-moulding, and if the machine is not set up correctly you will always get a bad mould with faults like the one you showed to us which is due to material flow with in the mould. Bad moulds were always blamed on the night shift by the quality control bloke, I hate to think what quality control there is in a back-street kitchen workshop some where in India. STILL!!!! a great informative video. Best wishes from Gods county, Yorkshire Rob.
Bit off topic Mike but wondered if you have any opinion on oils? Branded, none branded etc? If oil meets the spec then is oil oil? I've always used Castrol but now I see a German oil, same spec as Castrol, unknown name in UK that's vw /Audi, MB etc approved that's a quarter of the price when buying 20ltrs. Just got me wondering. 🤔
I will tell you what I do know - our local parts supplier Canadian Tire, sell Motormaster oils - their own brand - I asked they guy behind the counter who makes it and it was Shell
@@BritannicaRestorations I think Shell own a lot of the oil marks these days - valvoline quakerstate to name a couple
Hi Mike, hope you’re well. Could you please let me know the torque requirements for the 300tdi rocker cover? Thank you!
Rocker shaft pedestal bolt 5 Nm 4 lbf∙ft Plus 50°
Rocker cover (stud) 8 Nm 6 lbf∙ft
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike! My weekend job, to change the rocker cover gasket :)
Could it be a 2.8TGV seal, or maybe an MoD Wolf spec seal?
Wolf spec seal? Far as I know the wolf uses a standard seal. 2.8 may be different though.
andicog, only a guess as the engine may have had some alternative parts for waterproofing. The intake system is different, after all, as is the injection pump.
Not sure as I had no label on the bag - but it was an old Britpart one as it was in a black bag
Thats a great 'covid haircut' Mike :D
Indeed!
Are you sure that gasket isn't in upside-down?
Seems like it'd be more sensible for the thin edge to fit into the slot in the cover and the thick edge to sit against the sealing face.
Apologies if this is a stupid thing to say. It's more than a decade since I've looked closely at a 300tdi and I can't recall if the rocker cover is symmetrical.
Not really sure what to think about a rocker gasket leaking.
Theoretically, there's no pressure inside the rocker cover so there's nothing acting on the seal.
Any failure must (unless I'm missing something) be the result of degradation of either the rubber or any sealant (or, at worst, something metal warping).
That seal doesn't look especially "uniform" any more.
Is it possible that heat has caused sections of it to go soft and then it's moved into a slightly different position, which caused the leak?
Regarding the small bolt seals, that's the sort of thing I'd make myself.
Nice bit of 3/8" alloy with a suitable o-ring groove cut into both sides so you can fit standard o-rings.
Job's a good 'un.
I do not think it is upside down as there is a raised 'lip' at the bottom where it touched the head
What torque for the 3 top bolts please
Rocker cover (fixing nut) 10 Nm 7 lbf∙ft
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you
.......Mike the telly tubbie
👍👍
If it wasn’t a 200 Tdi gasket, what was it?
guess it was NOS - pattern parts today are made from poor patterns
Probably - it was in a black Britpart bag which they have not used for years
G'Day Mike.
Matey Its nearly always the rubber component of most after market parts that let us all down the most I find. Its why I pretty much steer away from any after market part that has rubber in it/part of it, these days and only buy OEM as much as I can. Having said that though, even OEM at times is a fail, but its far less than the dreaded after market chinese junk. Why getting good quality rubber components/subcomponents is so damned hard to do these days I have no idea, used to be all good rubber came from India, nowadays I have no idea where any of its coming from. If its a case of they always fail I start looking out the box for some way to replace the part with an item I kit bash from something that can be converted to do the job, you'd be surprised what works at times. The other method I use at times, is to find a part that's from a different Marque, and use that if its fit for purpose.
I have given up faith on OEM parts now - I think the word has lost all meaning - it is now a more expensive 'aftermarket' part but does not guarantee quality
@@BritannicaRestorations as an example, the place I use give a choice on their site, the steering column joints are from £7.04 each, there's a drop down option box, sometimes with 3 options so you can pick aftermarket, OEM or Genuine, on the steering u/j NRC7704 it gives aftermarket at £7.04, OEM at £26.55 or for genuine £61.38 Is the genuine really that much better?? It's a minefield.
I've just bought a blue box Sh*tpart clutch master cylinder cap, won't screw onto the two master cylinders I've tried, then theres the lower steering column joint from the same company that for some reason has one hole threaded so the original bolts shank is too long for so it won't tighten down, it nearly does, gives the impression of being tight but doesn't close the joint up on the splines. All made in China, or as Trump would say CHI- NAAA 👍
100's of hours of work - ten's of thousands of dollars and no matter what you do you will be a victim of shoddy parts - how can you win ?
You can't